COAST SCENE IN THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.
The boys were amused at the appearance of the houses along the banks; they had expected to see broad windows that would give as much ventilation as possible, and also allow strangers to have a peep at the internal arrangements without taking the trouble to enter. But they found, on the contrary, that the windows were generally narrow, and few in number, and the inhabitants consoled themselves for the lack of ventilation by spending a goodly portion of their time on the balcony. The roofs were covered with red tiles after the Spanish manner, and the Doctor remarked that the Spaniards in the Philippines, like the Dutch in Java and the English in India, had brought many of their home customs with them when settling in the eastern half of the world.
BARGE AND HOUSE ON THE PASIG.
They passed a barge laden with merchandise from one of the ships at anchor in the roadstead; it was propelled by men with long poles, which they fixed in the bottom of the river after the manner of the "settingpoles" formerly in use on some of the streams of America. A broad plank was attached to each side of the barge just above the water-line, and on this plank two men walked as they pushed against the firmly fixed poles. The barge was a clumsy affair, with a roof of pandanus leaves, woven together and arranged in sections, so that it could be lifted off to receive cargo. There was a broad rudder at the stern of the barge, and the steersman stood under the mat roof, so that he was quite sheltered from the rays of the tropical sun.
There were many native craft in the river, and a few vessels of foreign rig; but all the latter were of small tonnage, and evidently employed in coast service among the islands. The boat with the three travellers pushed on to the custom-house, where the baggage was inspected, and, on being found to contain nothing liable to duty, was allowed to pass. Then the strangers were at liberty to seek a hotel, and they lost no time in doing so.
There are not many visitors in Manilla, and consequently the hotel accommodations are limited; there are only two establishments worthy the name, and even these are far from equal to the pretentious hostelries of Madrid and Seville. Frank remarked that they would be quite content as long as they had a roof to shelter them, and enough to eat; Fred pointed to a large hole above his bed where several tiles had been removed,and suggested that the shelter was not very promising at the outset. The attention of the hotel-keeper was called to the opening, and he quietly remarked that the rainy season was over, and the hole would do no harm.
The hotel was not in Manilla proper, but in the suburb of Bidondo, where most of the foreigners reside, and where the bulk of the commerce is conducted. It is on the northern bank of the Pasig, and those who live there are accustomed to regard themselves as of more consequence than the dwellers on the opposite side of the stream. Back of Bidondo there are some pleasant villages and private residences, and several of the latter are fitted up with a considerable attempt at luxury. The boys thought the houses were not as comfortable as in Singapore and Batavia, and the Doctor told them that Manilla was a more expensive place to live in than either of the cities they had named, and consequently the same amount of money would procure fewer necessaries or luxuries of life. Those who had only fixed salaries to rely upon frequently found it difficult to make both ends meet; and even the merchants were compelled to practise more economy than they desired. The houses were generally of two stories, but the lower one was rarely inhabited, on account of the dampness that rose constantly from the ground. It was generally used as a stable, and consequently the occupants of the upper floor had the advantage of a variety of smells without extra charge.
Doctor Bronson had a letter to a gentleman residing in Manilla, and as soon as the party was settled at the hotel, he set out to deliver it. During his absence the boys took a stroll in the neighborhood, and crossed the bridge that leads to the city proper, on the southern bank of the Pasig.
OLD BRIDGE AT MANILLA.
There was formerly a stone bridge of ten arches that spanned the river; it was erected more than two hundred years ago, and was regarded with pride by the inhabitants, but the earthquake of 1863 destroyed it. An iron suspension-bridge was constructed in its place, and the most of the piers of the old structure were removed in order to facilitate navigation.
A MANILLA DANDY.
A NATIVE GIRL IN MANILLA.
Frank and Fred found many things that were new to them in their walk. They had not gone a dozen yards before they met a man whose appearance raised a smile on their faces, but they carefully concealed it till he had passed. He was dressed in what he doubtless regarded as the perfection of wardrobe, and swung a light cane with all the dignity of the most accomplished promenader of Broadway or Fifth Avenue. His trousers were of a checked pattern, and his feet—bare of stockings—were thrust into patent-leather shoes. The rest of his costume consistedof a shirt, a stove-pipe hat, an eye-glass, and a cigar; and the novel feature of the dress was that the shirt was worn outside the trousers, and had no necktie. The boys at first thought they had encountered some one who did not know how to clothe himself properly; but they soon ascertained that it is the custom in Manilla to wear the shirt outside the trousers, and the man they met was a dandy who had gotten himself up "regardless of expense."
A few steps farther on they met a different sort of inhabitant—a native girl with a jar of water on her head, and bearing a large leaf in one hand. She was tall and well-formed, and her dress was very simple; it consisted of a light chemise, and a skirt that showed her bare feet as she walked gracefully along, and paused to take a glance at the strangers. Her thick hair was braided into a heavy tress, which formed an excellent cushion for the jar to rest upon; and her complexion was so light that Frank could hardly believe she was not a Spaniard, rather than a native of the islands. Afterward they met many more of the same type; and as they also encountered Spaniards and half-castes, they were not long in learning how to distinguish the various inhabitants of Manilla.
On their return to the hotel, they foundthe Doctor was there before them, as the gentleman he sought was not at his office, and therefore his visit had been very brief. They sat down to lunch, and just as they finished it there was a call for the Doctor. It proved to be from Mr. Segovia, a partner of the gentleman to whom he brought the letter, and he kindly offered to show any courtesy to the strangers in his power.
NATIVE AMUSEMENTS.
"I am afraid," said he, "that you will find Manilla a dull place. We have no theatre at present, and the newspapers contain nothing you would care to read; the only relief we have to the prevailing monotony is the religious processions, and I believe there will be none of these for two or three weeks. The amusement of the people is in cock-fighting, a vice that was introduced by the Spaniards, and has been adopted by every native that can afford to keep a bird. Some of them never go out-of-doors without their favorite birds in their arms; and there is hardly an hour of the day or night when there is not a fight going on in a dozen places in Manilla."
After some further talk about the city and what it contained, it was agreed that the gentleman would call late in the afternoon with a carriage to take the Doctor and his young companions to the evening promenade. The arrangement concluded, the gentleman retired, and the party sat down on the veranda to pass away the hot hours of the middle of the day and talk about the sights of the city.
The boys brought out their note-books to record what they had seen in their morning's walk; and when they had finished, they had a conversation with the Doctor relative to the Philippine Islands and their history since the time the Spaniards went there. They were astonished to find that the group comprised more than 1200 islands; but their surprisewas somewhat diminished when Doctor Bronson told them that only twenty of the whole number were of any consequence, the rest being principally rocky islets. The entire group was said to have an area of about 120,000 square miles, and a population of from five to six millions. Some of the islands are independent, but the largest and most important belong to Spain, and have so belonged for more than three hundred years.
SPANISH GALLEONS ON THEIR WAY OVER THE PACIFIC.
"The group was discovered," said the Doctor, "in 1521 by the celebrated navigator Magellan, and occupied by the Spaniards about thirty years later. There have never been more than 10,000 Spaniards here at any one time, and probably there are not to-day over 5000 or 6000 persons of pure Spanish blood in all this region. For a long time the most of the trade of the Philippines was with Mexico, and once a year a ship or galleon was sent from Manilla to Acapulco with a load of silks and other valuable products of the East, which were sold for more than twice their cost. The last of these voyages was in 1811, owing to a royal decree that broke up the monopoly held by the rulers of the islands. Sometimes two or more galleons sailed together; the voyage across the Pacific Ocean was frequently more than one hundred days in length, and instances have been known of one hundred and fifty days being taken between Manilla and Acapulco. Now a sailing-ship that would not make the voyage in forty-five or fifty days would be considered slow, and a steamer would accomplish it in twenty-five."
One of the boys wished to know what the galleons brought back from Mexico in return for the silks they carried there.
"The greater part of their cargoes," was the reply, "was in silver dollars, and it is from this course of trade that we now find the Mexican dollar in such general circulation in the Far East. Then they brought quicksilver, which was sold in China at a large profit; and they brought cochineal and other dye-stuffs. Sometimes a single cargo would sell for $2,000,000, but this was unusual; the ordinary value of a cargo was about $500,000 at starting, and the returns were double that amount. There was very little produce of the islands in these cargoes, but mainly the silks and other Chinese goods which had been bought by the merchants of Manilla with gold-dust, sapan-wood, skins, and edible birds'-nests, together with the silver dollars, of which the Chinese are very fond.
"The Spaniards kept a monopoly of their trade down to the beginning of the present century. All other Europeans were carefully excluded from the islands until 1809, when an English house was allowedto establish itself here, and this concession was followed in 1814 by permission for all foreigners to come here under certain restrictions. The Spaniards always reserve the right to send away any foreigner who makes himself obnoxious, but the occasions when they do so are very rare. Even at the present day it is difficult for a foreigner to obtain permission to visit the interior of the island; and as late as twenty years ago there was a royal order that forbade their going there under any pretext whatever."
"Can we go there?" Fred asked. "I should so much like to see the interior of the island we are on."
"We have not time," the Doctor answered, "to go through the whole of the island, even if we could obtain permission; but I dare say we can make some short excursions, so that we will not be entirely ignorant of the Philippines when we go away."
After some further talk about the country they were in, the party separated, in order to follow the custom of Manilla, and devote an hour or two to sleep before going on their evening drive.
MOUTH OF THE BAY OF MANILLA.
Mr. Segovia called at the hotel according to agreement, and found the party ready to start on the evening drive. The boys enjoyed it greatly, if we are to judge by the following account which they wrote after their return:
VIEW OF MANILLA FROM THE BINONDO SUBURB.
"We have found Manilla very interesting, and have seen so much in our ride, that we hardly know where to begin. The streets are wide and straight, and they have solid sidewalks of stone that remind you of some of those in New York or Boston. There is a large square or plaza, with a statue of one of the Spanish kings in the centre, and a good many people were gathered there as we drove along one side and stopped a few moments to look at the statue. The part of Manilla on the southern bank of the river is the military city, and contains the cathedral and other churches, together with the government barracks, the custom-house, andseveral other public buildings; the Binondo suburb on the north is not so well off, and perhaps it is for this reason that the streets are not so well paved, and not as regular and wide. But there are more people on the north bank than on the south, and the most of the foreigners live there and try to enjoy themselves.
"We went along at a good speed in an open carriage drawn by a pair of lively young horses that were said to have been newly imported from Australia; they will lose their spirit after a while in this hot climate, and a year or two from now it will not be easy to get them to go faster than a slow trot. Everybody takes a drive who can afford it, besides a good many who cannot stand the expense. Their doing so has caused a curious custom to be adopted by the drivers; whenever you hire a cab in the streets, you must pay for it in advance, or the driver will not go with you. The drivers have been cheated so much that they have become suspicious and won't trust anybody, and certainly they are not to be blamed. Mr. Segovia says that a great many of the Spaniards who come here are without money or character, and think they have a right to swindle any one who will trust them. The merchants are obliged to be very cautious, but in spite of all their care they lose a good deal by these adventurers.
"Every little while in our drive we came to a canal, and a portion of the way we followed the banks of the Pasig. The canals are small, and only scantily filled with half-stagnant water, and the smells that rise from them are anything but nice. Dead dogs and cats were floating on the water, but the men rowing the numerous boats did not seem to mind them. You can go all around the Binondo suburb in a boat, and some day we mean to do so, if we can stand the odors.
"As we passed near the river we saw a funny sight—a raft of cocoa-nuts, with a native on it, floating down the stream. The nuts are tied together with pieces of the husk, which are partially detached with a knife, and the whole mass is so buoyant that a hundred of them attached to each other will support a man. A native starts with a raft of nuts from somewhere up the river, and floats down to market. He goes to sleep there, and lets the current carry him along; and if his conveyance runs on shore, he wakes up, gives it a push out into the stream, and goes to sleep again. It is an easy and cheap mode of travelling, and when he has sold his raft, he walks home, or works his passage on a boat bound in his direction.
A CREOLE IN EUROPEAN DRESS.
"Mr. Segovia pointed out the various classes of people in Manilla, and it did not take us long to be able to distinguish them from one another. He divides them into Spaniards, Creoles, Tagals, Chinese, and Mestizoes; the Tagals are the natives, the Creoles are children of Spanish fathers andnative mothers, and the Mestizoes are of Chinese parentage on one side, and native on the other. The word Mestizoes is generally abbreviated to "Metis," as our friend explained to us, and we will call them so in this letter.
SPANISH METIS.
CHINESE METIS.
"The first pair he pointed out were Spanish Metis, or Creoles, and they were dressed in their best clothes for an evening walk. The man wore a pair of gay-colored trousers that looked as though they were made of calico, and he had above them a frock like a shirt worn outside, of nearly the same material as the trousers. Then he had an umbrella and a tall hat, and his feet were in slippers instead of boots. The woman at his side was likewise in slippers that showed all of her feet except the toes; she had no bonnet on her head, but in its place she wore some flowers and a sort of wreath like a pad. There was a bright handkerchief around her neck, and her dress was of an equally gaudy color. These people appear to be very fond of lively colors and contrasts, if we may judge by the universal use they make of them.
"Close behind them was another couple that our friend said were Chinese Metis, or half-breeds. The costume of the man was not much unlike that of the other, but his trousers were not as gay, his frock was gathered in at the waist, and his shirt was white. Thewoman was prettier than the other one, and the handkerchief she wore on her head was very becoming; it fell in graceful folds down to her shoulders, which were covered with a cape of thin muslin, held in place by a pin at the throat, and her dress was very pretty: it consisted of a skirt or nativesarong, in which there was a good deal of red, and over the skirt there was a wide sash of rich Chinese silk in red and yellow stripes. It is wound around the waist in such a way that it holds the figure quite closely, and hangs below the knee. Her feet were in slippers, without stockings, and it does not seem to be the fashion for anybody to put on stockings in Manilla, or at least only among the foreigners.
SPANISH METIS OF THE WEALTHY CLASS.
"Frequently we saw people on horseback, and were told that many of them belonged to the wealthy class of the Spanish Metis. Their dress was much like that of the pedestrians, except that it was somewhat richer, and the woman wore a tall hat like that of the man; but as the equestrian costume for a lady in Europe or America is generally supposed to include a high chapeau, we suppose the head-covering for the fair rider in Manilla will not be considered out of fashion. They say that fashions change very little in Manilla from year to year, and milliners do not make fortunes. The Spanish ladies make some attempt to keep in style, but, with all their efforts, they do not succeed very well. There is little chance for variety in a country where it is so hot that only the lightest garments can be worn with comfort.
"These Metis are in the same social position as the mulattoes of the United States—they will not associate with persons whose skins are darker than their own; and, on the other hand, the whites altogether despise and look down upon them. But they are the richest and most enterprising of the population, and it is said that a Chinese Meti can generally beat a genuine Chinese at a trade, no matter whether he is buying or selling. One of the wealthiest native merchants is the son ofa Chinese trader who married a Tagal wife, and he has made his entire fortune by his own industry and shrewdness.
"There is this difference between the Spaniards in the Philippines and the Dutch in Java: that the former have instructed the natives in their religion, while the latter have not tried to give the Javanese any religious instruction whatever. All through the Philippines the natives have been converted to the Catholic Church, and in many districts the only white inhabitants are the priests. They instruct the natives not only in religion, but in agriculture and manufactures; but it often happens that, as they have no practical knowledge of the arts they are teaching, their instruction does not amount to much.
"When we reached the promenade, we got out of the carriage for a stroll. Everybody seemed to be there, as it is the fashion to go to the promenade whenever the band plays, and it happened to be one of the musical evenings. All the Spanish officials were in uniform, and the gentlemen who did not happen to hold office wore their black coats. Most of the other foreigners followed their example, though there were some that did not. The fashion promises to die out; but it will be some time before it does, as the Spanish are very conservative.
PALM-TREE IN THE BOTANICAL GARDEN.
"The ladies were out in goodly numbers, and Doctor Bronson said many of them were quite pretty. Most of them wore veils after the Spanish fashion, and they talked and laughed with the gentlemen, just as they might do in Madrid or any other Spanish city. The ladies in Manilla do not appear to spend as much time in-doors as the Dutch ladies do in Java, for they go a good deal among the shops, and like to turn over silks and other things by the hour without buying anything. They give the Chinese salesmen ever so much trouble, but the latter have to smile, and pretend to like it, exactly as the salesmen in a New York store have to do when the American ladies go on shopping excursions. In every house where they can afford it, they have a small army of servants to look after them; and as the place is in charge of amajor-domo, or house-keeper, there is not much for a lady to look after. Mr. Segovia says the most of the ladies who come to Manilla prefer to remain there rather than go back to Spain, and the reason probably is that they find life much easier. It is the same with the men, as not more than one out of ten ever goes home to Spain for more than a short visit; though it is proper to say many of them would be glad to go back, only they never have the means of doing so.
"While we were at the promenade, the bells suddenly rung the hour for evening prayers. Everybody stopped on the instant; not only those on foot, but those on horseback and in carriages. It was like one of the fairy scenes we read about, where the goddess waves her wand, and everybody becomes petrified till she waves it again, and restores them to life. The gentlemen raised their hats, and the ladies bowed their heads, and for a few moments the time was devoted to universal prayer. Then the bells stopped, and the movement of horses, carriages, and pedestrians was resumed; the conversation became aslively as ever, and we had to rub our eyes to make sure we had not been dreaming.
"There is a botanical garden near the promenade, but it is not very well kept; it reminded us of the gardens at Singapore only by contrast, as it was overgrown with weeds, and the most of the plants had died or were dying. A few palm-trees remain, and some of them are quite interesting. We are told that botanical gardens in all the Spanish possessions do not appear to flourish; and if this one is to be taken as a sample, we can readily accept the statement.
"It was late in the evening when we returned from our drive; the people were thinning out somewhat at the promenade, but the most of them did not appear in a hurry to get home. Though they go late to bed, they rise early in Manilla, at least those who have any business; and they make up for the short hours of night by sleeping in the middle of the day. In the best of the houses there are bath-rooms, with bamboo windows in fine lattice-work, and some of the people manage to keep cool by bathing several times a day. The water for supplying the city comes from the Pasig River, several miles above Manilla, but the means of distributing it are very primitive."
The second morning of their stay in Manilla our young friends were out in good season, and off on an excursion around the city. Their ride took them along the river, but further up stream than they had previously been; they continued it beyond the city to a little village, where the natives were having so jolly a time in the water that the boys proposed stopping to look at them. The Doctor consented, and so they left their carriage and sat down on the bank.
LIFE IN THE WATER.
Three or four girls were in the shallow water near the edge of the stream, and they amused themselves by splashing a Chinese boatman who was urging his craft among them. Evidently he did not like the sport, as he was threatening to strike them with his oar, of which they did not seem to have much fear. A boy who had never in all probability seen a circus was balancing himself on the back of a wide-horned ox, and urging the beast to join the bathing-party; the ox was not at all disinclined to the bath, and the Doctor told the boys that the oxen, or buffaloes, of the Philippines cannot exist without frequent bathing. They like to lie all day in the water, and, if it is not attainable, they will readily accept mud as a substitute. Consequently, they are not particularly clean in their general appearance, as they are veneered with mud for the greater part of the time, and the more mud they can accumulate the better they are satisfied.
HORNS OF THE BUFFALO.
The Doctor called the attention of the boys to the wide horns of the buffalo, and said they were often six feet in length, while specimens had been known that measured seven feet from tip to tip. He further remarked that the animal knows how to use them, as any hunter in the interior of the islands can testify; and some are unable to give their personal evidence, for the reason that they have been killed by them. The buffalo is a dangerous beast to encounter when he is enraged; he will shun the white man as long as he can, but, when pressed and pursued, he turns and shows fight. "We shall hear more of him by-and-by," theDoctor remarked, "and what you hear will be likely to increase your respect for him."
On their way back to the hotel, Doctor Bronson pointed to a series of large buildings, which he said were the Government tobacco-factories. "Every smoker," said he, "is familiar with Manilla cigars—at least all through the ports of Asia—and this is where they are made. Many people prefer them to Havana cigars, and you will often see a gentleman decline a Havana and accept a Manilla. The best of the Manilla cigars rarely get to the United States; and when they do, the price is so high that they cannot compete with cigars from other countries. Besides, they seem to lose their flavor in the long voyage over the sea, and perhaps this is the reason why Havana cigars seem to be lacking in the proper taste when brought to Japan or China.
"The tobacco-crop of the Philippines pays a tribute of a million dollars every year to the Spanish Government, which is the principal revenue they derive from their possessions in the East. It gives employment, in the factories that you see, to more than 20,000 men and women, besides a great number in the cities of Spain, where the raw tobacco is also worked up. The cigars are of three qualities—firsts, seconds, and thirds; and the prices are graded accordingly. Every box contains a certificate as to the character of the cigars inside, and there is a label on the outside to show the date when the cigars were put up. The clever Chinese in Hong-Kong are in the habit of counterfeiting not only the cigars,but the certificate and date label: some of them were prosecuted for the fraud a few years ago, and they have latterly been somewhat cautious. They have also a trick of selling first-quality cigars without the box, which they then fill with seconds, so as to pass them off as firsts. A novice will not discover the cheat till he has bought and carried away his cigars, and then it is usually too late to make a change. The old residents of Hong-Kong are not to be caught by the trick, and carefully examine a box before purchasing."
NATIVE HOUSE IN THE SUBURBS OF MANILLA.
In the afternoon Mr. Segovia called at the hotel to make a suggestion for an excursion into the interior. He explained that he was not at all pressed with business at that season of the year, and could spare a few days for a trip inland: he offered to make all the needed arrangements, and proposed that they should start on the following morning.
A GROUP OF NATIVES OF MANILLA.
"The island of Luzon," said he, "on which Manilla stands, is the largest of the group; its length is 520 miles, and its greatest breadth about 140. The estimate of its area is 40,000 square miles, and the next largest island, Mindanao, contains 33,000 square miles; the remainder of the group are much smaller, and of less consequence. It would takeyou several months to visit all of the islands, and you would find them so much alike as hardly to pay for the expense and fatigue. But you can make a small tour of Luzon, and see the principal features of the Philippines; and if everything is satisfactory, we will set out to-morrow."
The proposition was at once accepted, and the gentleman departed to make the necessary arrangements. "You need get nothing," he said, "beyond what you wish to wear, and may take your roughest clothes for that purpose; I will see to all the provisions and everything else we want, and will come with a carriage to take you to the boat that will be ready for you."
As soon as he had gone, Frank suggested a visit to a book-store he had seen not far from the hotel, in the hope that they might find some books about the islands to carry with them on their journey. Fred agreed to the proposal, and away they went. They soon returned with two books in the English language and one in French, and they passed the evening in the study of these works, in which they found much that was interesting.
The volumes in English were "Travels in the Philippines," by F. Jagor, and "Twenty Years in the Philippine Islands," by Paul de la Gironiere. The latter book was originally published in French, and was written by Alexander Dumas, from the notes of Gironiere, who had led the life of an adventurer and planter in the Philippines. It contains a good deal of truth mixed up with a variety of interesting incidents from the imagination of the famous French novelist. The work of Jagor is more recent than the other, and also more authentic.
Their kind entertainer was true to his promise, and came with the carriage at an early hour; but he was not too early for the Doctor and his young charges, and it did not require many minutes for them to be ready to start on their expedition. "We want to get off as quickly as possible," said Mr. Segovia, "in order to make a good distance before the heat of the mid-day sun compels us to halt. You have been long enough in the tropics to know that the middle of the day should be devoted to rest."
The boat was waiting for them at a landing-place just above the bridge; it was of native construction, and had a rude appearance; but as soon as our friends entered it they found it very comfortable. It reminded them of a Chinese house-boat, and their guide said it was built after the Chinese model, with slight changes to suit the wants of the Philippines. There was a space on the forward deck, where they could sit under an awning or roof of bamboo and pandanus leaves; it was notsufficiently high to enable them to stand beneath it, but this was no great inconvenience, as there were plenty of little loop-holes where they could look out and study the scenery.
The baggage was stowed in a sort of hold beneath the cabin, or in a space at the stern; in the latter instance, it was under the eyes of Mr. Segovia's two servants, who sat there, and occasionally gave some needed assistance to the crew. The latter consisted of six men and a padrone, or captain; the captain was a Chinese Meti, while his crew were Tagals, or natives of the islands. They were obedient, but not very energetic, and it was very soon apparent that the voyage would not be a rapid one.
VIEW ON THE RIVER PASIG.
The route of the excursion was up the Pasig to a large lake known as the Lake of Bay. The Pasig forms a natural canal, about twenty miles long, between the lake and the sea, and there are no falls in any part of the way to obstruct navigation. There are numerous villages and farmhouses on the banks of the river, and the boatmen made all sorts of pretences for stopping, in order to make the journey as long as possible. They had been hired by the day, and were anxious not to get through a good contract in a hurry.
Mr. Segovia finally made the padrone understand very plainly that he would be held responsible for all delays, and if the men did not do their duty there would be a deduction from the amount to be paid. This had the desired effect, and after that they behaved better. "Stop as longas you like at the villages," said the gentleman, "and I will keep a record of your delays, and make your pay accordingly." Nothing could be more reasonable than this, and the men were not long in seeing it.
SCENE ON THE SHORE.
With rowing and sailing it took nearly all day, with a rest of two hours at noon, to reach the Lake of Bay. They halted for the night at a little village close by where the river begins, and while the sun was yet in the sky our friends took a stroll by the shore of the lake. It seemed to them a very large lake, and the boys were not at all surprised to learn that the circumference of this sheet of water was more than a hundred miles, and that it washed the shores of three fertile provinces—Manilla, Laguna, and Cavite. It abounded in fish, and their attention was called to a fishing-raft, with a curious system of bamboo poles, by which the net was managed. Doctor Bronson explained to the boys that everything about the concern was of bamboo, with the exception of the fibre of the net; and even that, he said, might possibly be of bamboo, as this article can be used for coarse netting, though it is too brittle for fine work.
A BAMBOO FISHING-RAFT.
Their guide informed them that all the waters of Luzon were abundantly supplied with fish, so that this article of food was very cheap. He said a man could live on five cents a day, and have all he wanted to eat; this was the price for the interior provinces—three cents for rice and two for fish and cabbage—but he admitted that in Manilla food was dearer. There a man can hardly subsist on five cents a day, though he can get along very well on ten. Most of the fishes are coarse and of a muddy flavor, and there are not many varieties eaten by foreigners.
They were lodged in the house of a gentleman who was acquainted with Mr. Segovia, and was glad to have the opportunity of entertaining strangers. "We are away from civilization," said he, "and are delighted to welcome any one who can give us news of the outer world, and relieve the monotony of our life. Hardly a dozen persons come here in a year, and therefore you may be sure that all who do are heartily welcome."
They were bountifully fed at the table of their host; and as he was anxious to talk on almost every conceivable topic, it was very late before they went to bed. The next morning the journey was resumed to the estate of Jala-jala; it was formerly owned by the author of "Twenty Years in the Philippine Islands," and was rather extravagantly described in his book. The shore along the lake is flat, and serves as an excellent pasture for the cattle belonging to the establishment, and back of the shore there is a wide area of slightly elevated country, covered with rice and sugar fields. Beyond these fields is a hilly region backed by a mountain that is thickly wooded to its summit, and abounds in game birds and animalsof several kinds. Three sides of the estate are surrounded by water, as it stands on a broad peninsula; there is another peninsula of nearly the same extent farther up the lake, which is likewise the home of a wealthy planter.
The owner of Jala-jala was absent; but the manager invited the strangers to remain as long as they chose, since such was the custom of the country to all visitors who came properly introduced. He offered them horses to ride in any excursions they wished to make over the property, and told them, in true Spanish style, "The house and all it contains are yours." Mr. Segovia was well known at the place, and his presentation of Doctor Bronson and the youths was all that could be desired to make them entirely welcome.
The invitation was accepted by advice of their introducer, and their slender baggage was taken to the spacious house, where rooms were assigned to them. Their morning journey had given them good appetites, and they were quite ready for the substantial breakfast of curry, broiled chicken, and various kinds of fruits to which they were soon called. Then they rested awhile on the veranda, and strolled through the gardens, which were finely laid out, though somewhat neglected in cultivation. Early in the afternoon they were invited to a horseback-ride, andas soon as the animals were ready they started. A couple of Spanish Metis accompanied them, partly to show the way, and partly to vouch for them to any of the herdsmen they might encounter.
A STAMPEDE OF BUFFALOES.
"You must know," said Mr. Segovia, "that this estate has more than a thousand buffaloes, two thousand bullocks, and six or eight hundred horses. The horses are about half wild, and the bullocks more so, while the buffaloes are the worst of all. It is dangerous to go about here on foot, as the cattle are excited at seeing a white man walking, though they pay little attention to a native. The herds are watched by herdsmen, to prevent their straying off the pasture-grounds, and also to guard them against thieves, who are sufficiently numerous to cause considerable loss if not closely watched. Sometimes the herds become alarmed from various causes, and then a frightful stampede occurs, in which they run for miles. On this very estate I once narrowly escaped being trampled to death in a stampede of a herd of buffaloes; they had taken fright at the rumbling of the ground during an earthquake, and in their headlong flight they nearly ran down my horse and myself. I just managed to get out of the way; if my horse had stumbled and thrown me, my death would have been certain.
"They are dangerous animals to encounter in hunting," he continued, "as they will face a man who attacks them, and attempt to pierce him with their terrible horns. Perhaps you would like to hear of my first buffalo-hunt in Luzon."
The boys answered that it would give them great pleasure to listen to the story, as it would certainly be very interesting.
"Then I will tell you about it," was the reply. "It was in the mountains, some distance in the interior, where the country is very thinly settled, and the animals are entirely wild. The mode of hunting is to station yourself on the edge of a wood which is known to contain buffaloes; you must have a gun on which you can depend, and, above all, you must have full possession of your nerves. When all is ready, you send two or three Indians with dogs into the woods, to beat up the game and rouse him to the proper condition of anger. This is what I did, and I stood for at least half an hour without hearing a sound.
"The Indians remove nearly all their clothing, so that they can climb trees and get out of the way of the infuriated buffalo whenever he charges at them, and only the most active of the young Indians are selected for this work. By-and-by I heard the barking of the dogs; it kept coming nearer and nearer, and in a little while one of the Indians showed himself at the edge of the forest and sprung into the limbs of the nearest tree. I brought my rifle to my shoulder, and stood ready to receive the assailant. As he came out of the forest, he stopped a moment, as if bewildered at not seeing the Indian; when he looked around his eyes rested on me, and then he came onward, crashing through the small bushes, and trampling down everything that stood in his way.
"He made straight for me, as if intending to run me down, and did not pause till he was not ten paces away. Then he halted for a few seconds, and lowered his head to rush upon me with his horns.
"This is the critical moment when the hunter should deliver his fire, and he must aim directly at the centre of the animal's forehead. If the gun misses fire, or he fails of his aim, he is lost.
SHOOTING A BUFFALO.
"I fired just at the right time, and the bullet went straight to its mark. The buffalo made his plunge as he had intended, but instead of piercing me with his horns, he fell dead at my feet. The Indians then came up and praised my coolness, and predicted that I would become a famous hunter. I have shot a good many buffaloes since then, but it is fair to say I always have some one near me to deliver a shot in case my rifle should fail, and I stand close to a tree, and am prepared to jump behind it if possible. This is a precaution that every one should take, as you can never be certain that your gun will not miss fire, or your shot may fail to pierce the thick skull of the buffalo."
Frank asked how much the buffalo of the Philippines was like that of the United States.
"He is included in the same genus," was the reply, "but the species is quite distinct. The American animal is misnamed when he is called buffalo; he is properly the bison, and his scientific name isBos Americanus, while the Luzon buffalo is described as theBos Arna. The buffalo of the Philippines is an animal of more docility than the ox when properly domesticated, and is capable of rendering more services to man thanhis patient brother. But he must be tamed when very young—less than a year old; if suffered to reach two or three years without restraint, he is sure to be vicious, and is of no use except to be converted into beef. He is stronger than the ox, and will live on coarser food; he eats the bushes and vines that the ox refuses, and he is fond of aquatic plants, as well as those that grow on the slopes of the hills. When the heat is great, he takes to the water, and will spend the whole day there, browsing on the lilies and other things that grow in it. He stirs up the roots with his feet and devours them, and he will even hold his head under water to reach what is growing on the bottom.