A FLYING-FISH.
"On and on they sailed. Day after day passed with no sign of land, and no ship to bring them assistance. Their coals were exhausted on the seventeenth day; on the next and the next they suffered terrible thirst, because they could no longer make use of their condenser, and the old chief said that if they found no relief by the twentieth day they would have to give up.
"But at ten o'clock in the night of the nineteenth day the boat slid up on a sandy beach, and the party stepped on shore. Fortune willed it that they landed on the beach in front of the French town of Pondicherry; they had seen the lights for an hour or more, but mistook them for stars.
"The boat was pulled up high and dry on the beach, which was deserted at that hour. One man was left to guard it, and the other four, with the old man leading, walked in single file through the streets of Pondicherry in search of assistance.
"At every few steps the leader called out, 'Does any one speak Burmese?' People stared at him, and some laughed, and thought him insane, but he kept on up and down the streets with his comrades, repeating his inquiry in his own language, for he knew no other—'Does any one speak Burmese?'
"For nearly an hour he continued in this way, and just as he was about to give up, and try some other means of making himself understood, some one who spoke Burmese stepped from the crowd and asked what he wanted.
"His first inquiry was whether there was an agency of the firm to whom the cargo of salt belonged. Finding there was none, he named other houses of Rangoon with no better luck, and at last asked for the British India Steam Navigation Company.
"He went at once to the Company's agency, but it was closed for the night. He was there bright and early next morning, and his first request was for a telegram to be sent to his employers at Rangoon, so that they would know he had not run away with the cargo of salt. He wanted his character vindicated first of all, and then he asked if he and his comrades could be sent to Rangoon, and allowed to pay their passage on arrival, as they had not sufficient money to pay in advance.
"Those who heard his story could hardly believe it, especially when they saw the boat in which the five men had come across the Bay of Bengal. But they were fully convinced when a despatch came from the house at Rangoon to send the men back, and draw for expenses. The firm had full faith in the honesty of the old man, as he had been a long time in their employ.
"The agent of the French Steamship Company bought their boat for a good price, to keep as a curiosity, and gave them a free passage to Madras; from Madras the British India Company gave them passage to Rangoon, where they arrived safely, and were heroes in the eyes of all their neighbors and friends."
Doctor Bronson reminded the captain that there were several instances on record of boats not over twenty feet long that had safely crossed the Atlantic Ocean.
"Yes," the captain answered, "that is quite true; but bear in mind that the boats you speak of were specially built for the voyages they undertook; they were well provisioned and watered, and were in the track of steamships, from which they could obtain fresh supplies nearly every day if they wanted them. The men who managed them were experienced sailors, and were provided with instruments by which they couldwork out their positions, and know where they were. In the case I speak of the boat was totally unfit for ocean navigation, the men on board had never looked on the sea, and knew nothing about it; they had no proper supply of provisions, no instruments whatever, and even if they had possessed any, they were ignorant of their use. When you consider all the circumstances, I think you will agree with me that the voyage of the five Burmese was the most remarkable you ever heard of."
LANDING ON THE BEACH.
The first land they saw in approaching Burmah was, as Fred expressed it, a light-house without any land visible for it to stand on. The light-house is on a dangerous reef of rocks more than a mile long, and quite covered at high-tide, and many a ship came to grief there before the beacon was erected. As there is no sign of land at the point where the light-house is first seen, the sight is a curious one. Fred and Frank were much interested in the spectacle, and when they first saw the tall structure of stone, 150 feet in height, they could hardly believe the evidence of their eyes.
CREEK LEADING FROM THE RANGOON RIVER.
A boat headed for them, and before passing the light-house they had taken on board the pilot who was to show them the way to Rangoon. The city stands on one of the mouths of the Irrawaddy, twenty-six miles from the sea, and the boys were forcibly reminded of their visit to Saigon by the general similarity of the scenery at the mouths of the Meikong and the river they were now ascending. The branch on which Rangoon stands is known as the Rangoon River; it is nearly two miles wide at its mouth, but gradually narrows until it is only about a third of a mile across at the city itself. The banks are low and flat, and the scenery is monotonous; there are many little creeks and canals branching off from the river, and forming quite a net-work of waters navigable for small boats. Rice-fields and uncultivated swamps stretch away for long distances, and it was hardly necessary for the captain of the steamer to say that the region was an unhealthy one for foreigners.
The steamer anchored among a considerable number of foreign ships, and as a good many of the latter were receiving cargoes from lighters that lay along-side, the scene was a busy one. Boats, rowed by Chinese, Burmese, Klings, and other Oriental laborers, were speedily at the side of the new arrival, and a lively bargaining began for transportation to the shore. A Chinese boatman offered better terms than any one else, and in a short time our friends were deposited with their baggage in a littlehotel facing the river, and in that part of Rangoon known as "The Strand." This is a wide street that has been well paved by the authorities, and it contains the principal foreign residences and business houses, together with the Government offices and other public buildings. The tropical foliage is so dense in many places that comparatively few of the houses can be seen at once, and it is difficult for a stranger to realize that he is in front of a city of a hundred thousand inhabitants when his ship drops anchor in Rangoon River.
Rangoon is only a century and a quarter old, having been founded in 1755 by the Burman king, who conquered the province of Pegu, and determined to have a city near the sea; it extends about three miles along the river and a mile back from it, and its streets are generally at right angles, and well paved. There is a great difference between the foreign and native quarters, as in all the open seaports of the East: the formercontains well-built houses of planks, with tiled roofs, while the latter consists of bamboo huts that cost only a few dollars to build, and are liable to be blown down in a high wind. Most of the European houses are on piles, to protect them from the occasional floods of the river, and to prevent the intrusion of snakes, who often drop in upon them.
The boys were eager to see the greatest of all the sights of Rangoon as soon as possible, and they could hardly wait for the Doctor to complete the negotiations for their stay at the hotel. They found it very interesting, if we may judge from Frank's letter, which he wrote that evening, describing what they had seen during the day.
After narrating their impressions of the voyage up the river, and the sights on the way, the youth wrote as follows:
GREAT SHOAY DAGON, OR GOLDEN PAGODA.
"We went as soon as we could to see theShoay Dagon, or golden pagoda, and it is the largest thing of the kind we have yet seen; I enclose you a picture of the pagoda, as it would not be possible to give a full idea of it with words alone. In the first place, it is on a small hill, which makes it all the more imposing, and enables you to see it from a long distance, and it rises way above all the houses and other buildings in Rangoon. As you come up to the entrance you find some horrid-looking griffins, with impossible features and a very angry look; but as they are of brick and stone, they are not at all dangerous. They are put there to keep out all evil spirits, but they could not prevent the occupation of the temple by the British soldiers when they captured the city in 1852. A gentleman who was here then says it was not a very solemn spectacle to see the soldiers smoking among the shrines, and cooking their dinners on the altars, while the necks of the idols were hung with cartridge-boxes, and their heads covered with military caps. The Burmese were very angry at the desecration, but as soon as the war was over the temple was restored to the care of the priests, and has remained in their hands ever since.
"If the griffins let you pass without trouble, you next come to some long passage-ways with high walls; these walls are decorated with Burmese paintings that represent the tortures of all wicked people, according to the Burmese notions, and it does not need a long study to convince you that the artists must have had very lively imaginations. There is a great deal of yellow and gold in these paintings, and in the other ornamentation of the walls; and certainly the gilding must have cost a large amount of money.
"Then you go on till you come to a staircase very much out of repair; when you climb the staircase you come to a stone platform 1000feet square, and in the middle of this platform, or terrace, the shoay dagon stands. It is an octagonal pagoda 300 feet high and 500 in diameter, and is the shape of a bell, as you will see by looking at the picture. It is built of brick and stone, and covered with gold-leaf: the gold that was used for the gilding is said to have equalled the weight of the king who ruled at the time of its completion; but we are not told how much that was. It has worn off in spots by the heavy rains that fall in Burmah, but enough is left to give it a rich appearance, and justify the name it bears.
STATUE OF BUDDHA IN THE GOLDEN PAGODA.
"Around the base of the pagoda are some smaller pyramids of the general shape of the great one, and there are broad steps of stone with more griffins to watch over them. When you get inside the pagoda you find temples and statues in irregular order, as though they had been put there without any general plan; some of the sitting statues are ten or twelve feet high, and we saw some standing ones that must have measured eighteen feet at least. They represent Buddha, or Gaudama, and the largest are of brick and mortar, while the smaller ones are of metal. All are gilded, and some very thickly, and a good many had their garments made of bits of glass that were arranged to give a very pleasant effect. The general appearance of the temples and statues reminded us of those of Siam that we have already told you about, and the object is the same—the veneration of Buddha. It is proper to remark that the pagodas of Burmah are not actually temples, but simply the places where sacred relics are kept, and so the only sanctity the edifice possesses comes from the articles deposited there. The relics in this pagoda consist of eight hairs from the head of Gaudama, or the last Buddha, and a few other things of less importance. We were not permitted to see these relics, but only the shrines containing them.
"I send you also a picture of the statue of Gaudama, so that you may see how a Burmese idol looks. It is not a fine work of art, as the fingers are out of proportion to the arms, and the arms to the body, while the nose and mouth are on a more liberal scale than the most of us would like to have. All these statues have a very happy and contented expression, and some of them actually seem to smile when you look at them.
"From the golden pagoda we went to a pavilion near by, where hangs the Great Bell of Rangoon. All three of us went inside, and there was room for half a dozen more; the Doctor stretched his arms to their full length, and could just touch the edges of the bell with the tips of his fingers. The bell has no tongue or clapper, but is rung by means of abeam swung against the outside. The bells of Burmah are generally tongueless, but the Doctor says that is not the case with the belles.
"This great bell is said to be worth a hundred thousand dollars, as it contains a large amount of gold. Before it was cast the people of all classes crowded around to throw their offerings into the furnace where the metal was melted; women gave the golden ornaments from their ears, and the anklets and armlets that are so highly cherished throughout the East; men threw into the molten mass their golden scabbards, often glistening with jewels, and their costly betel-boxes; and even children came with their toys of copper or baser metals, where they were too poor to give gold or silver. The bell has a delicious tone, and in this respect is said to be the finest of all the great bells of the world.
"When the English captured Burmah, in 1824, they tried to carry the great bell away to England. While they were loading it into the ship the tackle broke, and the bell fell into the river, where it lay till after the country was restored to the Burmese. The latter fished it out and put it back in its place, and since then it has not been disturbed. The natives believed that so long as the bell remained here, and gave forth its sounds, the country could not be conquered; but their theories have been somewhat confused, as the English have had possession of this part of Burmah since 1852.
"The golden pagoda and its enclosure were full of natives coming to their worship, or going from it, while not a few seemed to be there for the sole purpose of idling away the time.
A BURMESE WOMAN.
"The Burmese have some resemblance to the Siamese in features and stature, but their physiognomy is not the same to a close observer, and there is a considerable difference in the dress of the two people. The children wear little clothing, or none at all, and when thus costumed they look very much like young Siamese in similar garb. Both men and women wear a short jacket of white material, and coming down about to the hips; the men wear aputso, which is a piece of silk or cotton cloth about a yard wide, wrapped around the waist, and descending to the knees, while the women have a similar garment that comes nearly to the ground. In each case this article is more or less gay in color, and the more red or yellow they can get into it the better are they suited. Both sexes wear the hair long; the women comb it straight back over the forehead, while the men make a bunch of it on the top of the head, and frequently cover it with a gaudy handkerchief.
"Both sexes wear ornaments in the ears, and large ones too. The ear is pierced so that it looks as though a large piece had been taken outof it: we are told that they puncture the ear when a child is very young, and gradually enlarge the opening by inserting pieces of bamboo. The ear is not considered properly pierced until the hole through it is at least half an inch in diameter; then it is useful as well as ornamental, as it will hold a cigar or any article of similar size, and a Burmese clerk finds it a convenient place for carrying a pencil. Doctor Bronson says that when you send a messenger to carry a letter, he rolls it up and puts it in his ear; he might put it in his pocket, but then he is far less likely to have a pocket about him than to have his ear pierced. The women use their ears as bouquet-holders, and it is not unusual to see one of them walking along the streets with a bunch of flowers in her ears that would sell for at least ten cents on Broadway in a summer afternoon.
A BURMESE JUDGE AND HIS ATTENDANTS.
"The natives have their own courts and ways of justice, subject to the control of the English; but the latter do not interfere with them so long as their sentences are not accompanied with cruelty. The British rule has been so humane, in comparison with the tyrannical methods of the kings of Burmah, that the people are quite content with the invaders, and have no desire to return to the old system. It is the custom of the Burmese to submit their disputes to an elder, whose decision is rarely opposed. We had a chance to look into a native court on our way back from the pagoda; the elder was sitting cross-legged on a stool, and his attendants were seated or squatted near him—two on each side. One of them was holding an umbrella—the symbol of dignity and power—and on the floor in front of the judgethere were two large fans of palm-leaf. At certain parts of the ceremonials of a court these fans are taken up and waved, and, no matter how small the case may be, the judge displays an immense amount of dignity in giving his decision.
"It is said that the Burmese judges are very corrupt, and the man who pays the highest price can have the kind of justice he wants. This is particularly the case in those parts of Burmah where the English are not in power, and the whole government is a system of bribery and corruption. The officers are rarely paid, and even if they are they get very small salaries; a gentleman who has lived here some years, says that a native official in Burmah cannot make an honest living unless he steals it."
While Frank was busy with his description of the golden pagoda, and the sights connected with it, Fred devoted his attention to a short account of the British in Burmah, and how they came there. Here it is:
"The British possessions in Burmah comprise about 100,000 square miles of territory, with 5,000,000 inhabitants; they include the former States of Tenasserim, Aracan, and Pegu, and these States are now the three provinces that constitute the Government of British Burmah. The first two have been occupied since 1824; Pegu was captured at that time, but afterward restored, and it remained in Burmese possession till the second war, in 1852. An American doctor, who was temporarily servingon an English gun-boat during the second war, says that the Burmese were very brave in many instances, but of course they were no match for the artillery and other warlike apparatus of the English.
BURMESE RIVER SCENE.
"But it seems that not all the bravery was genuine, for when this doctor went through the fortifications of Rangoon, after its capture, he found that the Burmese general who commanded the place had chained his gunners to the cannon, so that they could not run away. And furthermore, when the battle was going on, the wives and children of the officers and soldiers were penned up in the trenches, and ordered to lose their heads if the defence was not successful.
"Many of the cannon used in the defence of Rangoon were made of teak logs, hooped with iron; some did good service, but many of them burst after a few rounds, in consequence of being overloaded. The Burmese were at least two hundred years behind the times in making and using artillery; and they were not much better off with their war-boats, which were very narrow in proportion to their length, and made from the largest teak logs, hollowed out like the canoes of the Indians. They were rowed or paddled, and there were from fifty to one hundred rowers in each boat; the men kept time by singing a monotonous song, which had the word 'hah!' at the end of each line, and every time the 'hah!' was uttered the paddle was dipped into the water. The boats were propelledvery swiftly by their crews, but the thin sides offered no resistance to the cannon of the English ships, and a single well-directed shot was enough to knock one of them to pieces.
"So much about the war, which did not last long when it was fairly begun. After peace was arranged, the English went to work to develop the country as much as possible, and to show the natives they had come there to stay. They made roads, introduced steamboats on the rivers, and a few years ago they began the construction of a railway which is intended to run to the frontier, and some time go on to the capital of the kingdom of Ava, which is the part of Burmah that remains under its native ruler.
"The country has been very prosperous since the English took possession of it; the population has doubled in consequence of immigration—some of it from China, and some from native Burmah; and the natives seem to understand very well the advantages of living under a government that does not oppress them. The principal product of the country is rice, and it is exported to England and other countries; Rangoon rice is not unknown in America, and sometimes there have been half a dozen ships loading at one time in this port for the United States. About 2,000,000 acres of land are devoted to the cultivation of rice, and a few hundred acres to indigo, tea, and mulberries. There are very few manufactures; with the exception of a small quantity of silks that are woven at Prome, and some lacquered ware, the country does not make much that the rest of the world cares for.
"Perhaps this information will be found a little dry to some of the boys at home, but if it is they can skip it. There's a good deal more I could say, but the hour is late and we must rest ourselves for to-morrow."
NATIVE FORT CAPTURED BY BRITISH TROOPS.
While the boys were busy with what we have just read, the Doctor was endeavoring to arrange a journey into the interior, and, if possible, to enable his young friends to see the King of Ava and his capital city. But a serious difficulty arose, and rendered a visit to the capital impossible.
The old King of Burmah had died a short time before; his successor, King Theebaw, was unfriendly to foreigners, and apparently to everybody else, and there was a good prospect of another Burmese war. Theebaw had imprisoned some of the European residents of Mandalay, the capital, but afterward released them through fear of trouble with the British authorities. The English had withdrawn their official representative at Mandalay, and the steamers ceased to run from Rangoon to the capital; an insurrection had broken out among the Burmese, the exact extent of which was not known; small pox had appeared in the palace, the king's brother and uncle having died of it, while the king himself was supposed to have been attacked with the disease. The astrologers at the royal court were endeavoring to ward off the effects of the evil spirits, and ordered sacrifices to appease them. Hundreds of young girls were seized in the streets of Mandalay, and sacrificed in obedience to this order, and all who could leave the city were doing so. It was dangerous to go to Mandalay, and besides there was no way of getting there, since communication was cut off by the stoppage of the steamboats.
The next day news was received that the king had arrested about fifty of his relatives, and intended to put them to death, so as to prevent any intrigues for his place on the throne. They were kept in prison for a while, where they were treated with great cruelty, and finally murdered.
Of course the trip to Mandalay was abandoned at once; but as the steamers were still running to Thayetmyo, which is in British territory,and near the frontier, it was determined to go there. Passage was taken on a steamer leaving the following day, and at the hour appointed for departure our friends were on board.
The steamboat did not ascend the Rangoon River to the Irrawaddy, but passed through a channel known as Bassein Creek, which shortened the distance, and gave a better depth of water than the river. It was not till the day after leaving Rangoon that they entered the great river of Burmah, the Irrawaddy, which is about 1500 miles long, and is said to be the fourth in the world in the volume of water brought down by its current. In the latter part of its course it is nearly four miles wide, and at Bhamo, 1000 miles from the sea, it is not less than a mile from one bank to the other. It rises in the Himalaya Mountains, east of Thibet, and has a course that is generally southerly, though in one place it makes a large bend like the letter S, and in another it turns sharply from the south to the west. It is navigable for more than 1000 miles for boats drawing not over three feet of water, and it is open for the entire year.
The river is subject to great floods, and in the months of May and June the water is frequently forty feet above the lowest stage. In the dry season the channel is crooked and the current very rapid, but when the river is up the pilots pay little attention to the channel, but steer straight on, pretty much as they like.
NATIVE BOAT ON THE IRRAWADDY.
The boys were much interested in the novel sights of the great river; they endeavored to keep an account of the number of native boats, but finally gave up the effort, as the craft were too numerous to be counted, and allow time for seeing anything else. The boats were of all sizes and kinds; they were generally built of teak, the best timber in the world for ships, and they rose high out of water at both bow and stern. They were generally roofed over in the centre and at the stern, and sometimes there were two or three roofs of different heights. The steersman was elevated under a canopy over the stern, and at a little distance he resembled an idol in a shrine.
Many of the boats had tall masts for carrying a single square sail,such as the Chinese use, and of course they were not able to sail much into the wind. The captain told the boys that he had seen boats on the river with yards more than 100 feet long, and that 120 pulleys were needed to handle the sails properly. The larger boats had upper and studding sails, but all the rest had only the square sail.
MALAY "SAMPAN" OR RIVER-BOAT.
Several times the "wash" or "back water" from the steamboat overturned the little row-boats that ventured too near. These boats were hewn from a single log, like the "dugouts" of the United States, and were very easy to upset when not skilfully managed. The occupants did not seem to care much for being spilled out, as they immediately turned their boats right side up, baled them out with their hands, and then sprung in and laughed, as though it was a good joke. When the boys called attention to the first of these overturns, the captain of the steamboat told them of a wholesale upsetting he witnessed at the time of the second Burmese war.
"It was in front of Rangoon," said he, "and before we had actually begun to fight. The Governor of Rangoon was sending hostile messages, and we were sending equally hostile ones back, but not a shot had been fired.
NATIVE HOUSE NEAR THE RIVER.
"One morning the governor thought he would astonish us with a show of his force, and sent out a flotilla of thirty war-boats: they had all the way from twenty to fifty rowers in each boat, and it was really a beautiful sight. On they came with flags flying, gongs beating, trumpets sounding, and swords and muskets flashing in the sun: they dashed through the water at a rapid rate, and if the governor was looking on from the shore, he must have been pleased at the display.
"Just as they were making their finest appearance, an English steamer with despatches from Calcutta came up the river at full speed against the strong current. The Burmese were not accustomed to this sort of thing, and evidently knew nothing about the heavy swell that a big paddle-steamer makes. It caught the flotilla broadside on, between the ship and shore, and capsized every boat in it;the men saved themselves by swimming, but the whole lot of flags, gongs, muskets, swords, and other paraphernalia of Burmese war went to the bottom of the river. We laughed heartily at the ludicrous incident, which should have taught the Burmese that their war-boats are no match for an English steamer, even before she fires a gun."
The scenery of the river was not much unlike that of the Yang-tse in China, except that it was more tropical, and the foliage and verdure generally were more luxuriant. Wherever there was a forest the trees were large, and overspread with climbing plants and orchids; then for long distances the banks were covered with tall grass that would conceal an elephant walking through it, and for this reason it was called "elephant grass" by the officers of the steamboat. Villages of bamboo were reasonably abundant, some of them large and compactly built, while others were small and straggling. There were plantations of bananas and other tropical fruits, and sometimes they were so large and luxurious as to make a ready explanation of the very low price of these products of the soil in Burmah. If a man does not become weary of the monotony, he can get along very cheaply in this country by living on bananas alone.
The steamer made short stoppages at several villages, and finally rested for an hour or more at a place called Myanaong. This gave Doctor Bronson and the boys an opportunity to go on shore to see what the town contained.
A BURMESE TEMPLE.
There were crowds of natives in gaudy costumes, and nobody seemed to be actively employed. One man who spoke a little English offered to conduct the party around the place, and his offer was readily accepted. He led the way to a temple or pagoda with a curious arrangement of terraces and peaked roofs that can only be described by a picture. There was a good deal of gilding and yellow paint in the ornamentation of the building, and on the corners of the terraces there were staffs or poles with bells that jingled in the wind. As before stated, the large bells in Burmah have no tongues, and are rung by sticks of timber swung against them, but the small ones that hang on the roofs of the temples are better off. When the breeze is blowing they keep up a perpetual tinkle by no means unpleasant.
The entrance was up a marble staircase at one corner of the lowest terrace, and there was a similar stair at the opposite corner. Each of the entrances was guarded by fierce griffins, like those already described at Rangoon, and the carving was by no means of an ordinary character. The wood-carving on the ornamental parts of the building was generally well done, and the boys spent some time in examining the various designs.They climbed to the top of the edifice and looked down on the roofs of the lower buildings that surrounded it; some of these were the residences of the priests that had charge of the temple, and others were intended as lodging-houses for strangers who came there to worship, and intended to spend several days in the place. The priests were in yellow robes, like those of Bangkok, and their general appearance was much the same. The architecture of the temples, and certain parts of the worship of the Burmese, have no resemblance to the Siamese forms, but the principles of the religions are identical. Buddha is the divinity in the one country as in the other.
The steam-whistle called our friends back to the boat, and in a little while they were heading up the river once more. As they turned a bend above Myanaong, the captain pointed to a plain that stretched away for several miles along the bank of the river, and was backed by a dense forest.
"On that plain," said the captain, "I saw a fine example of the superiority of the European mode of warfare over that of these sleepy Orientals. I have already told you how we overset a fleet of their war-boats without endeavoring to do so, and now I'll tell how we dispersed an army of several thousand men in about five minutes:[5]
"The steamer that I was on during the second Burmese war was ordered to come up the river to prevent any re-enforcements going to the Burmese in Rangoon before we assaulted the place. Just before reaching this point we heard the sound of gongs and trumpets; it grew louder and louder, and we slowed our engines and crept gently along. Soon we discovered a great flashing and sparkling all over the plain, and from the mast-head we made out that an army was marching to the relief of Rangoon.
"Three 'woons,' or governors of as many districts, were leading the army, and it was a gorgeous array of elephants, horses, wagons, gongs, flags, trumpets, brass trappings, and all 'the pomp and circumstance of glorious war.' The three woons were on as many elephants in the front rank, seated on gilded howdahs, and shaded by gold umbrellas. Their servants knelt behind them with fans and betel-boxes, and the driver on each elephant's neck was flourishing his wand as though proud of the honor of directing the stately beast who carried a woon. Then came five elephants drawn out in a line, and laden with servants and baggage, andthen twelve elephants bearing the sons and nephews of the woons, together with the staff-officers. Next came the horsemen, three or four hundred strong, and behind them the beaters of gongs and cymbals, with the blowers of trumpets; then followed the infantry, and then the wagons and the camp-followers, making a long, irregular column that stretched far away to the forest.
"It was a grand spectacle, and it seemed a pity to interfere with it, but in war we cannot give way to sentiment. They did not see the steamer, and were evidently not aware of her presence; the first intimation of it was given by our gunners, who dropped a couple of shells right in the midst of the elephants, and followed them with two or three more. Then the steam-whistle was blown, and a rocket was sent flying over the heads of the woons.
"The whole scene was changed in an instant. Half a dozen elephants stumbled and fell, and the air was full of golden umbrellas, white cloths, yellow arms and legs, and gilded howdahs that fell with a crash. The rest of the elephants turned and dashed through the multitude, dropping their burdens as they ran, or brushing them off against the trees when they reached the edge of the forest; the horses took fright and scattered in all directions, some with riders and others with empty saddles; the ox-wagons were overturned, and as for the people on foot, they emulated the horses in the matter of rapid travelling. All that grand army was scattered in less time than I have taken to tell about it."
"That was what you call 'a stampede,' was it not?" said one of the boys.
"Exactly so," was the reply. "The army was stampeded by the shells that came so unexpectedly and frightened the animals, and when they began to run the men on foot naturally followed their example. The elephant is a timid beast in many things, and so is the horse, and when they take fright nothing can stop them. The elephant was employed in war before the invention of gunpowder, but since that explosive came into general use he has ceased to be of any value on the battlefield. The Burmese are not cowards, but their animals are, and probably the lesson of that and other occasions has taught them to leave the elephant behind when going to battle. The lesson was quite as pointed as the one of overturning their war-boats by the swell of a steamer, and you can be sure it has not been forgotten."
The scenery began to change as they passed the locality of this one-sided battle; the flat banks disappeared in many places, and low hills came into view, and by-and-by the low hills changed to higher ones.Most of the hills were wooded, and the low ground, wherever it occurred, was covered with rice or banana fields, or perhaps with custard-apple and mango trees. Occasionally they passed heaps of firewood that had been piled on the banks for the use of the steamers, exactly as it is piled on the banks of the Mississippi, and whenever they stopped to take in fuel the process of "wooding up" reminded the Doctor very forcibly of the same operation on the great river of North America.
A COMPOSITE CREW.
Among the odd craft they met was one that had a monkey and a parrot as part of the crew; the parrot was seated on the top of the mast, while the monkey amused himself by climbing over the sail and displaying a good deal of general activity. Evidently he desired to drive the parrot from her perch, but had a wholesome respect for her sharp and powerful beak.
AN EASTERN WATER-FALL.
Where the hills came down to the edge of the river there was now and then a water-fall glistening among the foliage, and dashing its white spray over the rocks. The most of these cascades were small, and the boys observed that all the larger tributaries of the Irrawaddy joined the great stream through level plains.
At one of their halting-places a native boat lay close to them, and the odor that rose from it was not altogether agreeable to the nostrils of the strangers. Frank inquired the cause of the disagreeable smell, andwas told that the crew was probably at dinner, and regaling itself onnagapee.
Naturally he wished to know what nagapee was.
"It is a condiment that they mix with rice to render it more palatable," the Doctor answered, "and is a great favorite with the Burmese. It is made by mixing finely-chopped fish with certain spices, and other flavoring things, till it is in the form of a paste. The fish is first allowed to get a little old, or 'gamy,' and before they chop it up the smell from it is anything but agreeably to a European. The flavor increases with age, and the older it gets the more do the Burmese like it."
Frank and Fred concluded they would take their rice without nagapee for the future. The perfume that rose from the boat was all they wanted.
MONASTERY AT PROME.
They stopped several hours at Prome, a large town that was said to contain some handsome pagodas and a Buddhist monastery, and was famous for its silk manufactories. One of the first persons our friends met on shore was a man whose accent was so decidedly American that Doctor Bronson at once asked from what part of the United States he had come. He proved to be a native of Massachusetts, and was settled in Burmah as a missionary: he invited the strangers to visit his house, but, as their time was limited, they were unable to do so.
This incident naturally led to a conversation concerning the American missions in Burmah, as soon as our friends were again on board the steamer, and moving up the Irrawaddy.
"Since the early part of this century," said the Doctor, "the American Board of Foreign Missions has been represented in Burmah; their stations are scattered throughout the country, and the labors of the missionaries have been attended with a great deal of hardship. Of late years they have fared better than they did when they first came here, as the authorities are less suspicious of them than formerly, and the comforts of life are more easily obtained. In the early days, and especially in the time of the first Burmese war, they were frequently arrested and thrown into prison: one of them, whose name is well known in the United States, was kept in chains for more than a year, and for a large part of that time he was under sentence of death."
One of the boys asked who this missionary was.
"He was Doctor Judson—Adoniram Judson," was the answer; "he came to Burmah in 1812, and died in 1850. He was two or three times in America between those years, and he died on a voyage from Rangoon to the Isle of France, where he was going on account of his health. He did a great deal for the advancement of the Burmese; he learned the language, and prepared a Burmese-English dictionary, together with a good many translations. The dictionary he made is the one now in use, though it has been considerably increased by other scholars.
"His imprisonment and sentence to death was owing to the suspicion that he was in secret correspondence with the English, who were then at war with Burmah. He and his wife were living at Ava, which was then the capital. At the time the war began, when the news came of the fall of Rangoon, the king was very angry, and ordered the arrest of three Englishmen residing there, and also of Mr. Judson. The prisoners were bound with cords, and then led away; on reaching the prison they were loaded with chains, and all four were fastened to a bamboo pole, so that if any one moved in the least degree he was sure to rouse his companions.
MRS. JUDSON VISITING HER HUSBAND IN PRISON.
"Mrs. Judson was arrested at the same time, and ordered to remain a prisoner in her own house. Here she was kept for several days, and she obtained her release by making a present to the governor of the city; then she set about obtaining the liberty of her husband and the other prisoners; but all that she could accomplish was to secure a modification of the severity of their treatment. As often as she was allowed she went to the prison, but she was generally stopped at the door, and could only talk with her husband with an armed guard standing between them.During the time of his captivity she wore the Burmese dress, so as to attract as little attention as possible when going about the streets.
"This imprisonment lasted nearly seven months, and then suddenly one day the prisoners were removed to a village several miles back from the river, and consigned to the 'death-prison.' They expected to be burnt to death, but for some reason the king hesitated to give the order, probably through fear that the British might make severe retaliation. Here they were kept six months, till the English succeeded in bringing the war to a close, and humiliating the king. All the prisoners were released; but the most of them died not long after, in consequence of their sufferings. Mrs. Judson had remained as close as possible to her husband during his captivity, and only lived about a year after his release. She died at Moulmein, during his absence at the capital to assist the British Commissioners in arranging a treaty with the king."