ADDENDA.

I have thus brought my Tour to a conclusion; a Tour, which has been productive of much amusement, and, I hope, not entirely devoid of advantage: it only remains, therefore, for me to add, that the Two Friends, having completed a pedestrian circuit of near eight hundred miles, parted with mutual regret, jointly exclaiming,

“Cambria, as thy romantic valesweleave,And bid farewell to each retiring hill,Where fond attention seems to linger still,Tracing the broad bright landscape; muchwegrieve,That, mingled with the toiling croud, no moreWe mayreturn thy varied views to mark,”

“Cambria, as thy romantic valesweleave,And bid farewell to each retiring hill,Where fond attention seems to linger still,Tracing the broad bright landscape; muchwegrieve,That, mingled with the toiling croud, no moreWe mayreturn thy varied views to mark,”

Page44.  The church of Tenby is a large, handsome, and antique edifice, and several monuments, bearing an ancient date, worthy of notice.

On the left of the altar, is one to William Rifam, with the following inscription:

Two hundred poundsand 50 moreHe gave this towneto help the poore.The use of one on clothand coles bestoweFor twelve decrepid meanand lowe.Let 50 pounds to fivebe yearly lentThe other’s use on Burges’sonne’s be spent.

Two hundred poundsand 50 moreHe gave this towneto help the poore.

The use of one on clothand coles bestoweFor twelve decrepid meanand lowe.

Let 50 pounds to fivebe yearly lentThe other’s use on Burges’sonne’s be spent.

On the same side, is a monument to the memory of John Moore, Esq. who, at the age of fifty-eight, and having by his first wife six sons and ten daughters, felldesperately in love, which not being returned, he died of a consumption, at Tenby: the following epitaph is very allusive to his unfortunate catastrophe:

He that from home for lovewas hither brought,Is now brought home, this Godfor him hath wrought.

He that from home for lovewas hither brought,Is now brought home, this Godfor him hath wrought.

Another monument to Morgan Williams:

Igne probaturEn animus rurfus clare in corporeMorgan Williamsdescended from the heiress ofRobert Ferrar, Bishop of St. DavidsBurnt alive by bigots under Q. Mary;was lately chief of Gargamand senior in council atMadras.Where Oct. 27, 1690, aged 49 yearsHe resign’d the President’s chairand his breath together.An employment of full 30 yearschronicles the continualapprobation of his conductparticularly aschief commissioner of the circuit.

Igne probaturEn animus rurfus clare in corporeMorgan Williamsdescended from the heiress ofRobert Ferrar, Bishop of St. DavidsBurnt alive by bigots under Q. Mary;was lately chief of Gargamand senior in council atMadras.Where Oct. 27, 1690, aged 49 yearsHe resign’d the President’s chairand his breath together.An employment of full 30 yearschronicles the continualapprobation of his conductparticularly aschief commissioner of the circuit.

ThefollowingSonnets,the joint production of two Friends,were sent to the Author,as considered applicable to his Tour;it is therefore hoped,they may not be unacceptable to the Reader.

TO FRIENDSHIP.Addressed to the Companion of my Tour.

Obalmycomfort thro’ this varied mazeOf life! thou best physician to the breast,With deep affliction’s venom’d sting opprest,A thousand arts, a thousand winning waysAre thine, to smooth the rugged brow of care,And mitigate misfortune’s keenest hour:Yes, A—, partner of my Cambrian Tour,Friend of my heart, how gladly do I shareThy confidence; whate’er my part may beHereafter on this shifting stage of life,This busy theatre of jarring strife,May health and happiness attend both theeAnd thine!—on ONE, thy Heav’nly Guardian trust,Nor doubt protection—all HIS ways are just.

The Contrast of Yesterday,and To-day;supposed to be written on the Summit ofSnowdon.

Howgay was yesterday!—no storm was heardTo mutter round thy steep! yon sun aroseWith golden splendour, and in still reposeNature majestic thro’ her works appear’d.To-day, how chang’d!—loud howls the hollow blast!The thin mists undulate! thy tow’ring heightIs veil’d in tempest, and eternal night!So ’tis with man! contrasting prospects pastWith dreams of future happiness—to-dayIn gallant trim his little bark may glide,On the smooth current of the tranquil tide:To-morrow comes!—the gathering storms displayA sad vicissitude—the whirlwind’s sweep,Grasps at his prey, and whelms it in the deep.

On leavingWales.

Whybursts the tear, as Cambria, now I leaveThy wild variety of hill and dale,Where fancy, fond intruder, lingers still?Why do these parting sighs my bosom heave?’Tis, that alas!  I ne’er may view againThose haunts, those solitary scenes I love;But thro’ this vale of tears forsaken rove,And taste the sad vicissitude of pain?’Tis, that I sadly breathe a warm adieu,To long-lost scenes of mutual amity;’Tis, that I turn, my absent friend, to thee,“Think on past pleasures, and solicit new!”For thee my fervent pray’rs to Heav’n ascend,And may we meet again as friend to friend.

To the Welsh Harp.

Lov’dinstrument! again repeat those sounds,Those plaintive airs, that thro’ my senses steal,With melancholy sweet.  Their pow’r I feelSoothing my sadness, healing sorrow’s wounds.Gently thou lull’st my sufferings to repose,Inclin’st my heart to ev’ry virtuous deed,Removing from my mind each dark’ning shadeThat clouds my days, increasing all my woes.Now swelling with the breeze, along thy vales,Romantic Cambria! the strain I hear,Then dying soft away, comes o’er my earIn whispers soft, still wafted by thy gales!Lov’d instrument! again repeat those sounds,Soothing my sadness, healing sorrow’s wounds.

Supposed to be written by Moon-light,on the Sea-shore,atTenbigh.

Iloveto mark the silver-curling spray,Just kiss the pebbled shore; the zephyr blows,And ocean slumbers in serene repose;While the moon’s beams in quiv’ring radiance playUpon its surface: yet ere long, that tideMay heave its foaming billows to the shore,And the sea boil in one tempestuous roar.See here thy picture, man! reason, thy guide,Can lull each gust of passion into rest;Her aid divine, her energy once lost,In what a sea of angry tumults tost,Raves the mad whirlwind of thy troubled breast!Blind passion then can reason’s aid refute,And degradate the man to worse than brute.

On seeingLlangollen Vale.

Othou, too captious of each airy scheme,Fancy! thou dear delusive traitor, say,Are not thy charms the phantoms of a day,That mock possession, like a fleeting dream?Here could I spend, if such had been my lot,Quiet my life; nor should the shiv’ring poorDepart unfed, unaided, from my door.“Content is wealth,” the emblem of my cot.Here, by the brook, that gently babbles by,Should stand my garden; there the blushing roseAnd woodbine should their sweetest scent disclose.But ah! farewell these dreams;—my big full eyeSwells with the bursting tear—I think, how fewThe road to real happiness pursue!

Prospect of Sun-rise fromSnowdon.

Howgrand the scene from this stupendous height!How awfully sublime! the king of dayFlames in the east; old ocean’s waves displayOne globe of fire! one boundless flood of light!With what unclouded lustre blaze the skies!While[209]Mona’s flats, ting’d with a golden hue,Burst with transcendent beauty on the view;And, Man, thy scarce seen mountains proudly rise.Nature, beneath, seems prostrate! and my sightCan hardly grasp the vast immensity!Can then the muse attempt to sing of thee,Nature’s great God!  Father of life and light!Who bade the sun his annual circle roll,Who guides, directs, and animates the whole.

To my Dog.

Yes, thou hast been companion of my Tour,And partner of my toils! hast rov’d with me,Thro’ Cambria’s rude and wild variety,And often sooth’d the solitary hourWith thy caresses; yet false man can claimSuperior reason, claim a mind enduedWith love, with faithfulness, and gratitude;Love, a mere sound, and gratitude, a name.Yes, faithful creature! and when thou art gone,With fond attention shall thy bones be laid,And a small tribute to thy mem’ry paid,In these few words, engraven on thy stone:“Here let in peace the faithful Sylvio lie,The truest picture of fidelity!”

FINIS.

Route.

Counties.

Miles.

Best Inns.

Objects most worth Attention.—Rivers and noted Bridges.

Page.

Cheltenham Spa to

Gloucester

Plough Hotel

Pump-room-walk—Seat of Earl of Fauconberg—Cleave Hill—Dowdswell

1

Gloucester

—

8

King’s Head

Cathedral—Goal—Pin manufactory—Isle of Alney—Severn—Drawbridge, called Westgate

5

Newnham

—

12

Bear

Garden Cliff, at Westbury—Flaxley Abbey—Church yard view from

6–8

Lidney

—

8

White Swan

Iron works—Mrs. Bathurst’s

9

Chepstow

Monmouth

8

Beaufort Arms

Castle—Church—Piercefield, one mile from Chepstow—Llanconb Cliffs—Wye—Wooden bridge

9–195

Newport

—

16

King’s Head

(Between C. and N. Caldecot Castle—Caerwent pavement—Ruins of Caerleon) Uske—New bridge—Castle

10–13

Cardiff

Glamorgan

12

Angel

Castle—Goal—Bridge—Taff

14

Landaff

—

3

—

Ruins of the Cathedral

18

Cardiff to Caerphily

—

7

Boar’s Head

Castle

19

Myther Tidvil

—

17

Star

Iron works, the largest in the kingdom—(Between C. and M. Pont-y-prid)

22

Pont Neath Vechan

—

14

Angel

Falls of Scotenogam—Lower and Upper Culhepste—Lady’s Cascade—Porthogo Cavern—Bwr Mean—Parthen and Neath rivers

23

Neath

—

11

Ship and Castle

(Between P. and N. Aperdulas and Melincourt waterfalls—The Knole) Abbey—Castle—Copper-works

26

Swansea

—

9

Mackworth Arms

View at Britton Ferry—Castle—Pottery—Tawe

28

By Oystermouth and Penrice to Cheriton

—

20

A poor Pot-house

Situated on the Bury—In your way see Oystermouth Castle—Oxwich Bay—Penrice—King Arthur’s stone

32

Llanelly cross the Bury

Caermarthen

7

—

Church

33

Kidwely

—

9

Pelican

Castle

33

Caermarthen

—

10

Ivy Bush

Castle—Tin works—Bridge over the Towy

34

Llaugharne

—

12

Castle

Castle—Caermarthen Bay

35

Tenby

Pembroke

16

White Lion

(Between L. and T. Green bridge, a curious excavation in the rock) Castle—Church—Rocks—Walk on the sands and croft

37

Pembroke

—

10

Green Dragon

Castle—Bridge—Sail round Milford Haven to Hubberstone, sixteen miles—Bush, Mr. Meredith’s

40

Returned to Tenby

—

—

—

—

Haverfordwest

—

20

Castle

(Between T. and H. Carew Castle—Landshipping Ferry—Picton Castle) Castle—Priory at the extremity of the Parade

47

St. Davids

—

16

Black Lion

(Between H. and St. Roach Castle—St. Bride’s Bay) Cathedral—Bishop’s Palace—Rocking stone two miles from St. Davids

52

Fishguard

—

16

—

(In your way take the place where the French landed) Gwain river

53

Newport

—

7

—

Two miles from N. Druidical monuments

57

Cardigan

Cardigan

11

Black Lion

(Velindre—At Lechryd bridge, tin works—Kilgerran Castle—Follow the Tyvi to Cardigan) Castle—Goal—Church—St. Dogmael’s Abbey, one mile from Cardigan

60

Aberaeron

—

22

Good accommodations

Druidical monuments—Castle

62

Aberystwith

—

15

Talbot

(Between A. and A. Llanwryan bridge) Walk round the Castle—Lead mines

63

Havod

—

12

Havod Arms

Devil’s bridge—Fall of the Rhyddol—Of the Mynach—Havod house and grounds

67

Machynlleth over Plinlimnon

Montgomery

27

Eagles

The house where Owen Glyndwr assembled his parliament—Dovey river—Bridge

80

Talylyn

Merioneth

10

Blue Lion

(Between M. and T. Dyflas river) Cader Idris—Pool of Three Grains

83

Dolgelly

—

16

Golden Lion

Beautiful situation—Avonvawr river

84

Barmouth

—

8

Corsy Gedol Arms

From D. to B. extremely interesting—Pleasant walk on the sands, and likewise on the hills over the town

85

Harlech

—

10

—

Castle—A golden torques dug up here, in the year 1692

89

Returned to Barmouth

—

—

—

—

Tan-y-bwlch by Dolgelly and Falls

—

28

Tan-y-bwlch

(Between Dolgelly and Tan-y-bwlch, the falls of Doll-y-mullin—Cayne—Moddach) Vale of Festiniog—Tan-y-bwlch hall—River Dryryd

99

Beddgelert

Caernarvon

8

Tolerable accommodations

(Between T. and B. Pont-aber-glaslyn—Copper mines) River Glaslyn

103

Llanberris over Snowdon

—

16

—

Pass of Llanberris—Dolbadern Castle—Two lakes

104

Caernarvon

—

9

Hotel

Near C.—River Rhyddol—Bridge—Castle—Wythwar mountain—Religious sect called Jumpers

115

Plas-Newydd

Anglesey

6

—

The Menai—Lord Uxbridge—Cromlechs

116

Bangor

Caernarvon

4

George and Dragon

View from the church-yard—Cathedral—Cross the Menai to Beaumaris—Baron Hill

123

Conway

—

11½

Bull and Harp

(Between C. and B. Castle of Penrhyn—Pen-mawn-mawr) Castle—Church—College

127

Abergele

Denbigh

11

Tolerable accommodations

(Between C. and A. Llandidno mines—Cavern-ar-ogo) Walk on the sands

130

St. Asaph

Flintshire

7

White Lion

(Between A. and St. Rhuddlan Marsh—Castle—River Clwyd) Vale of Clwyd—Cathedral

133

Denbigh

Denbigh

6

Bull

Castle—Ruins of an old church—Vale of Clwyd

134

Ruthin

—

8

Cross Keys

(Between D. and R. Well of St. Dysnog) Castle—Church—Gaol—Bowling green—Vale of Clwyd

136

Wrexham

—

16

Eagles

Church—Offa’s Dyke—Erthig, the seat of P. York, Esq.—Church of Marchwiel

140

Ruabon

—

6

—

Wynstay park—Obelisk—Offa’s Dyke

143

Llangollen

—

8

Hand

(Between R. and L. Ponteysyllty—River Dee) Bridge over the Dee—Castle Dinas Bran—Lady E. Butler’s Cottage—Valis Crucis—Pillar of Ellseg

149

Oswestry

Shropshire

12

Cross Keys

(Between L. and O. Chirk Castle—Whittington) Ruins of a chapel—Castle

156

Welch Pool

Montgomery

18

Royal Oak

(Between O. and W. Llanymynach Hill—Breddin—Column to Adm. Lord Rodney, recording the victory over the French, April 12, 1782—Virnwy—Powis Castle)

160

Montgomery

—

8

Dragon

Castle and Goal—Ellesmere canal

162

Bishops Castle

Shropshire

9

Castle

—

163

Ludlow

Hereford

16

Crown

Castle—Church—Cross—Walks round the Castle walls—Bridge—Teme river

164

Leominster

—

11

Red Lion

Market house—Church

174

Hereford

—

12

New Inn

Cathedral—Castle walks—Gaol—Wye

174

Ross

Monmouth

14

Man of Ross

Church—View from “The Prospect”—Wilton Castle—Bridge—Wye

176

Monmouth

—

—

Beaufort Arms

(Between A. and M. Goodrich Castle—Symond’s Yatch—Courtfield house—New Wier) Castle Priory—Town hall—Walk to Monmouth Folly—Wye

187

Chepstow

—

50

Beaufort Arms

Castle—Church—Piercefield, one mile from Chepstow—Llancomb Cliff—Wye—Wooden bridge (Between M. and C. Llandogo—Tintern Abbey—Wine Cliff, corruption from Wye Cliff)

9—195

[x]The Rev.William Coxe, rector of Bemerton, and domestic chaplain to the Lord Bishop of Salisbury.

[8]Atkins’s Gloucestershire.

[9]Grose’s Antiquities.

[11]Warner’s First Walk through Wales.

[12]He was buried in the Cathedral Church of St. David, and many hundred years after canonized by Pope Calistus the Second.—Godwin’s English Bishops, p. 414.

[18a]Willis’s Landaff, p. 34.

[18b]Grose, Willis.

[23]I.e.lime-stone.

[27]Vol. ii. p, 92.

[30]Pennarth, eight miles South-west of Swansea.

[32]William of Malmsbury, p. 158.

[39]The Pedestrian will not possibly find time to examine the Ruins of Carew Castle, in this day’s route, but will find it more convenient to visit it in his way from Tenby to Haverfordwest.

[41]The price for two oars, seven shillings and six-pence; and twelve shillings and six-pence for four oars.

[42a]Wyndham, p. 72.

[42b]Philosophical Survey of Ireland.

[47]“The Castle (says an eminent Author) is said to have been built by Gilbert Earl of Clare, who lived in the reign of King Stephen; and Camden reports, that Richard Earl of Clare made Richard Fitz-Tankred Governor thereof.  It was one of those in the hands of the Flemings, when they first came into Dyvet, or Pembrokeshire.”

[49]These lines were frequently repeated by Dr. Johnson, whose partiality to Inns is well known.

[51]“This celebrated person was uncle to King Arthur, and son of a Prince of Wales.  After being seated in the see of St. David sixty-five years, and having built twelve monasteries; after having been exemplary in the piety of those days, this holy person died, at a most advanced period of human life; having attained, as it is said, to the age of one hundred and forty-six years.  He was buried in the Cathedral Church of St. David; and many years after canonized by Pope Calistus the Second.”—Warrington’s History of Wales, vol. ii. p. 385.

[52a]To whose son a MS. to Elizabeth, quoted by Willis, p. 69, gives Owen’s monument.

[52b]Tan. Bib. Brit.

[52c]Tan. 720.

[53]This gentleman, I believe, is an inhabitant of Worcester.

[55]Lland, vol. v. p. 25.

[56]For a description of these Monuments, see Wyndham.

[58]It receives its name fromcoria, a hide, or skin.

[61]Itin. vol. v. p. 12.

[63]Over the river Rhydal.

[66]The additions to Camden 1695, suppose this, Bishop Idnerto.

[79]Called in LatinVaga.

[81]See an excellent account of the woollen manufactory in the seventh chapter of Aikin’s Tour through North Wales.

[83]See Pennant’s Snowdonia, p. 89, and likewise Wilson’s excellent View of Cader Idris.

[84]Mr. Pennant, in his Snowdonia, p. 397, published in 1781, “mentions, that there are brought annually to Salop 700,000 yards of web; and to Welch Pool, annually, between 7 and 800,000 yards of flannel; but he does not state the particulars whence he reduces his general estimate.”  I have quoted this passage from Aikin’s excellent chapter (vii.) on the Woollen Manufactures of North Wales, not having in my possession Mr. P.’s Snowdonia.

[105]Evan Thomas, works in the copper-works at Aber-Glaslyn, and lives at a place called Dous Coreb, about a mile and an half beyond Beddgelert.

[114]Such is the received opinion; but the place noted for this event, is only a thoroughfare to the grand apartments of the tower, the middle one of which appears more probably to have been the room.

[116]The hire of a boat from seven shillings and six-pence to half-a-guinea.

[118]“The eastern seems originally to have consisted of seven stones, six uprights supporting an immense superincumbent one, (with its flat face lying upon them) thirteen feet long, nearly as much broad, and four feet thick.”—Warner’sSecond Walk.

[119a]In the time of the Romans, this island was called, by the Britons,Mona; but becoming subject to the English, in the time of Egbert, it was afterwards termedAnglesea, or the Englishman’s Island.  SeeRowland’sMon. Ant. p. 172, 173.

[119b]Before the Author of this Itinerary proposed publishing this Tour through the Cambrian territories, he was induced to send an account of this extraordinary sect to the Gentleman’s Magazine, (July, 1799, p. 579.)  This is, therefore, only to be considered as a repetition; with the addition of a brief extract from the two subsequent letters, (September, 1799, p. 741, and November, p. 938,) given to the public by different hands, through the medium of the Gentleman’s Magazine.

[122a]I have since understood, that they have a chapel at Caermarthen.

[122b]September, 1799, p. 741.

[125a]Or Deane.

[125b]As from neglect we did not transcribe the names of the bishops, it may not be deemed improper to insert the following passage from a well-known Author: “Here are monuments for Bishops Glynn, 1550; Robinson, 1584; Vaughan, 1597; Rowlands, 1616; Morgan, 1673; and one with a cross fleuri in the south transept, ascribed to Owen Glendwr; but as he was buried at Monington, in Herefordshire, where he died, I should rather ascribe it to some of the earlier bishops; Mr. Pennant gives it to Owen Gwynned.”

[131]Offa.

[144]Since our visit to this spot, Mr. Yorke has published a most excellent and valuable book, entitled,An History of the Royal Tribes of Wales.

[147]Enquire the way to this aqueduct at the turnpike, about four miles from Llangollen.

[151a]Lady Eleanor Butler.

[151b]Miss Ponsonby.

[151c]Willis’sSt. Asaph, p. 52, 285.

[152]From a second survey of my note-book, I perceive, when speaking of the house, I omitted mentioning that there are several family pieces, both of the Wynne and Williams, worthy the inspection of the connoisseur.  The house has been built at various times.

[161a]The measurement of this gallery is copied from former tourists, at some MS. notes taken on the spot, relative to this castle, and the places coming under our inspection, the two following days, have been accidentally lost.

[161b]See Lord Littleton’s Account of Powis Castle.

[166]This estimation it taken from “The Ludlow Guide;” from which I have taken such extracts, as, I flatter myself, will not be unacceptable to the tourist.  We dedicated two or three days to the investigation of this interesting town, and consequently, in those parts where the Guide is defective, we have made considerable additions; and more particularly, when speaking of the church.

[172a]No account of the inside of the church is given in the Ludlow Guide.

[172b]Phillip’s History of Shrewsbury.

[189]Tanner’s Notitia Monastica.

[194]Warner’sFirst Walk.

[209]The Isles of Anglesey and Man, are discovered from Snowdon.

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