Thecommon sayings about waste in American kitchens, dyspeptic results of American cooking, etc., reflect the opinion held by other nations of our culinary art, and though the judgment may be too severe, it has been pronounced, and should remind us of our shortcomings.It seems, however, as though a new era were now dawning. Cooking-schools are established in large cities, cooking lectures are given everywhere and are well attended. The nutritive values of different foods and the chemistry of cooking are studied. This, and the recognition of the fact that health proceeds largely from the diet, seem to indicate that there has been an awakening of interest in the subject of gastronomy. In this day of fads, it will soon be discovered also that pleasures lie in this line of work. Fancy cooking has an interest quite as engaging as other occupations of diversion. Fine cooking utensils, gas-stoves, and modern conveniences, make the well-appointed kitchen as attractive as the laboratory or workshop. Trying a new dish has the same interest as any other experiment. The construction of ornamental pieces is as interesting as other fancy work. Making puff-paste, ice-creams, fancy molding of desserts and salads, boiling sugar, etc., are in reality simple processes, and with very little practice found to be as easy to prepare as dishes which from familiarity have come to be called plain cooking. Skill and dexterity of hand may be enjoyed in boning, trussing, and larding, and taste shown in decorating with truffles and other articles, in molding with flowers and fruits, inicing cakes, in spinning sugar, and in making bonbons. The pleasure of decorating the table and adorning the dining-room will be found secondary to that of preparing artistic dishes when that art has once been learned.The gas-stove obviates the objection, formerly existing, of one’s being subjected to excessive heat while cooking. At a cost of about $2.00 a stove can be bought which will stand on a table anywhere, and answer all ordinary purposes of boiling and frying. More expensive ones, fitted with ovens and other appliances, answer the requirements of all kinds of cooking.When the preparation of a new or a fancy dish comes to be looked upon as a pastime instead of a task, there may be discovered in America Savarins and Béchamels. We have already had a Sam Ward, but to the women should belong the honor of raising our standard of cooking, and though they need not agree with the terrible sentiment expressed by Margaret Fuller, that a woman to have influence must cook or scold, still it must be conceded that the former accomplishment will enable her to wield a potent scepter. Perhaps, however, the strongest word to be said in favor of every mistress of a house knowing how to cook is the usefulness of it. The difficulty of getting trained cooks at reasonable wages, the caprices of the class, whose consciences do not prevent their leaving at the moment when their services are most needed, and the many occasions that arise when a knowledge of cooking is of the greatest comfort and service, make it difficult, for those who know how to cook, to comprehend how any one can keep house without this knowledge, or how, with the inferior service generally rendered, the pleasures of hospitality can be enjoyed, or the comfort of a well-ordered culinary department experienced.
Thecommon sayings about waste in American kitchens, dyspeptic results of American cooking, etc., reflect the opinion held by other nations of our culinary art, and though the judgment may be too severe, it has been pronounced, and should remind us of our shortcomings.
It seems, however, as though a new era were now dawning. Cooking-schools are established in large cities, cooking lectures are given everywhere and are well attended. The nutritive values of different foods and the chemistry of cooking are studied. This, and the recognition of the fact that health proceeds largely from the diet, seem to indicate that there has been an awakening of interest in the subject of gastronomy. In this day of fads, it will soon be discovered also that pleasures lie in this line of work. Fancy cooking has an interest quite as engaging as other occupations of diversion. Fine cooking utensils, gas-stoves, and modern conveniences, make the well-appointed kitchen as attractive as the laboratory or workshop. Trying a new dish has the same interest as any other experiment. The construction of ornamental pieces is as interesting as other fancy work. Making puff-paste, ice-creams, fancy molding of desserts and salads, boiling sugar, etc., are in reality simple processes, and with very little practice found to be as easy to prepare as dishes which from familiarity have come to be called plain cooking. Skill and dexterity of hand may be enjoyed in boning, trussing, and larding, and taste shown in decorating with truffles and other articles, in molding with flowers and fruits, inicing cakes, in spinning sugar, and in making bonbons. The pleasure of decorating the table and adorning the dining-room will be found secondary to that of preparing artistic dishes when that art has once been learned.
The gas-stove obviates the objection, formerly existing, of one’s being subjected to excessive heat while cooking. At a cost of about $2.00 a stove can be bought which will stand on a table anywhere, and answer all ordinary purposes of boiling and frying. More expensive ones, fitted with ovens and other appliances, answer the requirements of all kinds of cooking.
When the preparation of a new or a fancy dish comes to be looked upon as a pastime instead of a task, there may be discovered in America Savarins and Béchamels. We have already had a Sam Ward, but to the women should belong the honor of raising our standard of cooking, and though they need not agree with the terrible sentiment expressed by Margaret Fuller, that a woman to have influence must cook or scold, still it must be conceded that the former accomplishment will enable her to wield a potent scepter. Perhaps, however, the strongest word to be said in favor of every mistress of a house knowing how to cook is the usefulness of it. The difficulty of getting trained cooks at reasonable wages, the caprices of the class, whose consciences do not prevent their leaving at the moment when their services are most needed, and the many occasions that arise when a knowledge of cooking is of the greatest comfort and service, make it difficult, for those who know how to cook, to comprehend how any one can keep house without this knowledge, or how, with the inferior service generally rendered, the pleasures of hospitality can be enjoyed, or the comfort of a well-ordered culinary department experienced.
Ifone is obliged to accept the service of inexperienced cooks, or of women who claim to be plain cooks, but in reality know nothing of the right ways of preparing anything, it is often necessary to do more or less teaching or supervising. Often it would be found easier to begin at the beginning, and teach an entirely green girl who has intelligence and a desire to learn, than it is to correct careless habits or bad methods already formed. A formula for teaching a green cook is given below for the benefit of any who care to avail of it.First.Impress the necessity of clean utensils, being particular that every saucepan used is perfectly clean on the outside as well as the inside.Second.Have all the utensils of one kind kept together in definite places, and insist that each one is returned to its place as soon as it has served its use, thus establishing system.Third.When sugar, butter, spices, or any articles are taken out for use, have the boxes returned to their places as soon as the desired quantity is removed.Fourth.Do not allow any accumulation of soiled utensils waiting for a general cleaning-up. A great deal of time and work can be saved, and an orderly kitchen maintained, by washing things as you go along so far as possible at odd moments, and also in not using an unnecessary number of dishes.Fifth.Explain about exact measurements. Insist upon the use of the tin measuring-cup (see page77).Sixth.Have a time-table giving time per pound for cooking meats, fastened in a convenient place against the wall, for easy reference.Seventh.Have all meats weighed and wiped off with a wet cloth before proceeding to cook them.Eighth.At all times give attention to right management of the fire; be especially careful not to have coal piled above the grate, nor to let the top of range become red-hot. Shut off drafts before the coal is burned out, and have the ovens clean and at the right temperature.Ninth.Have everything dished neatly, and garnished simply.Tenth.No matter how simple the dish, insist that it be attractive in appearance, and that every dish placed on the table show the care of the cook in its preparation; for instance, have every piece of toast of the same size and shape, evenly browned and carefully arranged on a hot plate.To instil strict care in every detail is a most important point in forming a good cook.DISHES RECOMMENDED FOR FIRST LESSONS.To make beef stock for soups, page88.To boil potatoes, page201.To boil rice, page222.To make a white sauce, page277.With one half the sauce make cream potatoes, add a little onion juice to the other half, and add to it meat minced very fine, making a creamed mince. Serve it on moistened toast; or make creamed chicken and serve a border of rice around it. When making a roux, and a white sauce is understood, it is easy to show the variations of it, such as to cook onion or vegetables with the butter before the flour is added;or to brown the flour if a brown sauce is wanted; or to use stock instead of milk, thus making a Béchamel sauce; or to add an egg to white sauce, making a poulette sauce, etc.To poach eggs: Serve them on toast cut uniformly and moistened. Place symmetrically on dish and garnish with parsley; or, spread the toast with creamed mince, place a poached egg on each piece, and put a spot of pepper on the center of the yolk.To make coffee, page551.To broil a steak, page156.To boil a leg of mutton, caper sauce, pages163and164.To roast beef and baste frequently, roast potatoes in the same pan, pages146and204.To draw and truss a chicken, pages180and183.To clear the beef stock for clear soup, page86.To make common stock, page87.To make potato soup, page105.To clarify drippings, page74.To try out all other fat, page74.To dry bread and roll it into crumbs, page51.To make bread and bread biscuits, page340.To make rice pudding, page433.To make bread pudding, page434.To make plain cornstarch pudding, page397.A compote to serve with cornstarch pudding, page535.Cottage pudding, sabayon sauce, pages435and446.Cup cake, page470.Cookies, page481.Plain pie-crust, page451.Baked apple-dumplings, hard sauce, pp.429and448.Some variations of cornstarch pudding, page398.Plain wine-jelly, page415.When a woman has learned to do these few simple things perfectly, she will have no difficulty in following any ordinary receipt, and having a knowledge of the first principles of cooking, can then advance to more elaborate dishes.Frying should not be attempted until she can roast, broil, and bake.Croquettes of various kinds can then be made; to mold them uniformly requires a little practice—the care of the fat and the right degree of heat are the essential things to emphasize in frying.In one month a woman of ordinary intelligence, with the desire to learn, should be able to make perfectly, and serve attractively, enough simple dishes to supply the family table with sufficient variety, without troubling the mistress to plan and think for her.An insistence upon system and exactness will insure immunity from failures.
Ifone is obliged to accept the service of inexperienced cooks, or of women who claim to be plain cooks, but in reality know nothing of the right ways of preparing anything, it is often necessary to do more or less teaching or supervising. Often it would be found easier to begin at the beginning, and teach an entirely green girl who has intelligence and a desire to learn, than it is to correct careless habits or bad methods already formed. A formula for teaching a green cook is given below for the benefit of any who care to avail of it.
First.Impress the necessity of clean utensils, being particular that every saucepan used is perfectly clean on the outside as well as the inside.
Second.Have all the utensils of one kind kept together in definite places, and insist that each one is returned to its place as soon as it has served its use, thus establishing system.
Third.When sugar, butter, spices, or any articles are taken out for use, have the boxes returned to their places as soon as the desired quantity is removed.
Fourth.Do not allow any accumulation of soiled utensils waiting for a general cleaning-up. A great deal of time and work can be saved, and an orderly kitchen maintained, by washing things as you go along so far as possible at odd moments, and also in not using an unnecessary number of dishes.
Fifth.Explain about exact measurements. Insist upon the use of the tin measuring-cup (see page77).
Sixth.Have a time-table giving time per pound for cooking meats, fastened in a convenient place against the wall, for easy reference.
Seventh.Have all meats weighed and wiped off with a wet cloth before proceeding to cook them.
Eighth.At all times give attention to right management of the fire; be especially careful not to have coal piled above the grate, nor to let the top of range become red-hot. Shut off drafts before the coal is burned out, and have the ovens clean and at the right temperature.
Ninth.Have everything dished neatly, and garnished simply.
Tenth.No matter how simple the dish, insist that it be attractive in appearance, and that every dish placed on the table show the care of the cook in its preparation; for instance, have every piece of toast of the same size and shape, evenly browned and carefully arranged on a hot plate.
To instil strict care in every detail is a most important point in forming a good cook.
With one half the sauce make cream potatoes, add a little onion juice to the other half, and add to it meat minced very fine, making a creamed mince. Serve it on moistened toast; or make creamed chicken and serve a border of rice around it. When making a roux, and a white sauce is understood, it is easy to show the variations of it, such as to cook onion or vegetables with the butter before the flour is added;or to brown the flour if a brown sauce is wanted; or to use stock instead of milk, thus making a Béchamel sauce; or to add an egg to white sauce, making a poulette sauce, etc.
To poach eggs: Serve them on toast cut uniformly and moistened. Place symmetrically on dish and garnish with parsley; or, spread the toast with creamed mince, place a poached egg on each piece, and put a spot of pepper on the center of the yolk.
When a woman has learned to do these few simple things perfectly, she will have no difficulty in following any ordinary receipt, and having a knowledge of the first principles of cooking, can then advance to more elaborate dishes.
Frying should not be attempted until she can roast, broil, and bake.
Croquettes of various kinds can then be made; to mold them uniformly requires a little practice—the care of the fat and the right degree of heat are the essential things to emphasize in frying.
In one month a woman of ordinary intelligence, with the desire to learn, should be able to make perfectly, and serve attractively, enough simple dishes to supply the family table with sufficient variety, without troubling the mistress to plan and think for her.
An insistence upon system and exactness will insure immunity from failures.
A verypleasant book called “$10.00 Enough” explains how a family of two lived well on that sum per week, including house rent and wages of one servant. Mrs. Rorer says $2.00 per head a week is a liberal allowance. Articles are published giving directions for living on ten cents a day; also of dinners for six people costing twenty-five cents. In examining these formulæ it is evident that in order to accomplish this very small cost of living, one must first understand the comparative values of foods, so as to select those which at low prices furnish the necessary nourishment, and secondly, to be able to cook them in such a way as to make them acceptable; in fact the rule holds good, however high the scale of living, that the proper cooking of food counts for more than the cost of it. The cheap and the expensive articles can be equally spoiled in the cooking; while the cheap ones, well cooked, are more esteemed than the high-priced ones poorly prepared. The first thing excluded from the list of cheap nutritive foods is white bread. Refining the flour to the whiteness of the so-called best qualities takes out most of its nutritive elements, while the lower grades or brown flours retain the gluten, and make a bread which is preferred when one becomes familiar with it. Beans, peas, and corn-meal have an important place on the list of accepted foods. They supply the wastes of the system and afford a hearty meal. Meat, which is the most expensive food, has come to be regarded here as a necessity, but inthe old countries the classes who perform the hardest labor consider it only as a luxury, and seldom use it oftener than once a week. Often the cost of living is more in the waste than in the actual consumption of food. Another needless and unwise expense is buying more than is required, providing for three persons enough for six; and still another extravagance is in buying articles which are out of season. For instance, in the spring veal is a very cheap meat; in the autumn it is the most expensive one, but, at the right times, one may indulge in sweetbreads, calf’s head, calf’s brains, and liver. In its season game is frequently abundant and reasonably cheap. The idea prevails that, in order to have variety, it is necessary to buy whatever the market offers, whereas variety may be attained by variation in the ways of cooking, in serving with different sauces, and with different accompaniments, and in arranging the menu so that one course is in pleasing contrast to the preceding one, thus avoiding surfeit.Many pieces of meat of the best quality are sold at low rates because not in shapes to be served as boiling or roasting pieces. These serve well for entrées and made-up dishes; other pieces, which are tough, but well flavored, can by slow cooking be made as tender as the prime cuts, such as a round of beef braised.On page249will be found a number of menus and receipts for very inexpensive dinners.Mushrooms.Mr. Gibson, in an interesting article on “Mushrooms,” published in “Harper’s Magazine” for August, 1894, calls attention to the vast amount of wholesome and nutritious food that lies at the door of every country dweller. City people pay at least a dollar a pound for mushrooms, which are served at the finest dinners, and are considered as among the best articles for use in high-class cooking. Therefore, whyshould they be scorned or overlooked by those who can have them for the gathering? Neglect to use them seems equal in wastefulness to the practice of some country butchers, who throw away calves’ heads, brains, sweetbreads, fresh tongues, etc., because the people have not learned their value. A French family who moved into a western town reported that the cost of living there was nominal, because the foods which they most prized, not being recognized as belonging on the list of comestibles, were given away by the butchers as food for dogs. Mushrooms are very distinctive in feature, and by the aid of descriptions given in books and colored charts, one can easily learn the edible varieties which grow in his neighborhood. By taking no risks in eating those not perfectly recognized, there is no danger of being poisoned. It is not thought difficult to learn varieties of the rose, nor to discriminate between the poison and the innocuous ivy. The form, color, and habitat of mushrooms make them equally easy to recognize. Care should be taken, however, to avoid any mushroom which is old or partly decayed, as its condition then is analogous to that of putrid meat. In their season the edible fungi grow in great profusion; they are nitrogenous, containing the same nutritive elements as meat, and well serve as a substitute for it, giving a pleasant change to the limited bill of frugal fare. Mr. Gibson speaks of them as beefsteaks. They seem from circumstances, therefore, to have a place in the dietary of the poor as well as the rich. Receipts for cooking mushrooms are given on page314.It is sometimes thought to be an extravagance to serve a roast to a small family, because so much meat is left over. When there is no way known of presenting it again except as cold meat or as hash, it may indeed be disagreeable to have the same meat served fourtimes. A good cook, however, served turkey acceptably at four dinners to a family of three persons in this way:FIRST DAY’S DINNER10 lbs. turkey at 16 cents per lb.$1.601 quart sweet potatoes boiled.102 quarts apples (of which she used three for baked apple dumplings, sabayon sauce, page446).151 egg.031 lemon.02½ cup sugar.01—.06—Cost of first day’s dinner$1.91SECOND DAY’S DINNER2 lbs. codfish boiled.20HOLLANDAISE SAUCE(page281).2 eggs.06¼ lb. butter.08½ lemon.01—.156 croquettes made of one cupful of turkey meat.00SAUCE TO MIX THEM½ cup milk.01½ tablespoonful butter.011 egg.03—.05½ tablespoonful flour (see croquettes, page293)1 pint cranberries.09Sweet potatoes left from day before, cut in strips and browned (see page206).00BROWN BETTY PUDDINGApples from day before.00Molasses and crumbs.05—.05—Cost of second dinner.54THIRD DAY’S DINNERSoup made from carcass of turkey.00CHICKEN SOUFFLÉ(page190).1 cup turkey meat.00SAUCE TO MIX IT1 tablespoonful butter.021 cup milk.043 eggs.09Other ingredients.02—.17BAKED MACARONI½ lb. macaroni.04Cheese.05—.09COTTAGE PUDDING1 egg.03½ cup sugar.01½ cup milk.021 tablespoonful butter.03Baking powder.01—.10CHOCOLATE SAUCE(page447).3 oz. chocolate.08½ cup sugar.02—.10—Cost of third day’s dinner.46FOURTH DAY’S DINNER1 codfish steak, 1lb..104 smelts for garnishing.10—.20CHARTREUSE OF CHICKEN(page190).1 cup rice.04White sauce.07What is left of turkey including giblets.00Boiled potatoes.05Scalloped tomatoes.15Salad of water-cresses.05Bread pudding.10—.46—Cost of fourth day’s dinner.66First day$1.91Second day.54Third day.46Fourth day.66Extras for bread, seasonings, etc..30——Total$3.87Average per day96¾ cents.The turkey in this case gave three cupfuls of chopped meat after the dinner of the first day. Any kind of meat can be made into the same dishes, and will be liked if the meat is chopped very fine, is well seasoned, and made creamy by using enough sauce.
A verypleasant book called “$10.00 Enough” explains how a family of two lived well on that sum per week, including house rent and wages of one servant. Mrs. Rorer says $2.00 per head a week is a liberal allowance. Articles are published giving directions for living on ten cents a day; also of dinners for six people costing twenty-five cents. In examining these formulæ it is evident that in order to accomplish this very small cost of living, one must first understand the comparative values of foods, so as to select those which at low prices furnish the necessary nourishment, and secondly, to be able to cook them in such a way as to make them acceptable; in fact the rule holds good, however high the scale of living, that the proper cooking of food counts for more than the cost of it. The cheap and the expensive articles can be equally spoiled in the cooking; while the cheap ones, well cooked, are more esteemed than the high-priced ones poorly prepared. The first thing excluded from the list of cheap nutritive foods is white bread. Refining the flour to the whiteness of the so-called best qualities takes out most of its nutritive elements, while the lower grades or brown flours retain the gluten, and make a bread which is preferred when one becomes familiar with it. Beans, peas, and corn-meal have an important place on the list of accepted foods. They supply the wastes of the system and afford a hearty meal. Meat, which is the most expensive food, has come to be regarded here as a necessity, but inthe old countries the classes who perform the hardest labor consider it only as a luxury, and seldom use it oftener than once a week. Often the cost of living is more in the waste than in the actual consumption of food. Another needless and unwise expense is buying more than is required, providing for three persons enough for six; and still another extravagance is in buying articles which are out of season. For instance, in the spring veal is a very cheap meat; in the autumn it is the most expensive one, but, at the right times, one may indulge in sweetbreads, calf’s head, calf’s brains, and liver. In its season game is frequently abundant and reasonably cheap. The idea prevails that, in order to have variety, it is necessary to buy whatever the market offers, whereas variety may be attained by variation in the ways of cooking, in serving with different sauces, and with different accompaniments, and in arranging the menu so that one course is in pleasing contrast to the preceding one, thus avoiding surfeit.
Many pieces of meat of the best quality are sold at low rates because not in shapes to be served as boiling or roasting pieces. These serve well for entrées and made-up dishes; other pieces, which are tough, but well flavored, can by slow cooking be made as tender as the prime cuts, such as a round of beef braised.
On page249will be found a number of menus and receipts for very inexpensive dinners.
Mushrooms.Mr. Gibson, in an interesting article on “Mushrooms,” published in “Harper’s Magazine” for August, 1894, calls attention to the vast amount of wholesome and nutritious food that lies at the door of every country dweller. City people pay at least a dollar a pound for mushrooms, which are served at the finest dinners, and are considered as among the best articles for use in high-class cooking. Therefore, whyshould they be scorned or overlooked by those who can have them for the gathering? Neglect to use them seems equal in wastefulness to the practice of some country butchers, who throw away calves’ heads, brains, sweetbreads, fresh tongues, etc., because the people have not learned their value. A French family who moved into a western town reported that the cost of living there was nominal, because the foods which they most prized, not being recognized as belonging on the list of comestibles, were given away by the butchers as food for dogs. Mushrooms are very distinctive in feature, and by the aid of descriptions given in books and colored charts, one can easily learn the edible varieties which grow in his neighborhood. By taking no risks in eating those not perfectly recognized, there is no danger of being poisoned. It is not thought difficult to learn varieties of the rose, nor to discriminate between the poison and the innocuous ivy. The form, color, and habitat of mushrooms make them equally easy to recognize. Care should be taken, however, to avoid any mushroom which is old or partly decayed, as its condition then is analogous to that of putrid meat. In their season the edible fungi grow in great profusion; they are nitrogenous, containing the same nutritive elements as meat, and well serve as a substitute for it, giving a pleasant change to the limited bill of frugal fare. Mr. Gibson speaks of them as beefsteaks. They seem from circumstances, therefore, to have a place in the dietary of the poor as well as the rich. Receipts for cooking mushrooms are given on page314.
It is sometimes thought to be an extravagance to serve a roast to a small family, because so much meat is left over. When there is no way known of presenting it again except as cold meat or as hash, it may indeed be disagreeable to have the same meat served fourtimes. A good cook, however, served turkey acceptably at four dinners to a family of three persons in this way:
The turkey in this case gave three cupfuls of chopped meat after the dinner of the first day. Any kind of meat can be made into the same dishes, and will be liked if the meat is chopped very fine, is well seasoned, and made creamy by using enough sauce.
Asa rule the family life of America does not represent opulence, yet it has become a familiar saying that a French family could live on what an American family throws away. Again, it is said that in American kitchens half the provisions are spoiled and the other half wasted. There is no need to-day of being open to such accusations. At small expense a woman can have the benefit of lessons in cooking-schools, and should not be accepted as a cook until she has some knowledge of the duties, and is qualified to bear that name. The gage of a woman’s rank in her profession can be definitely determined by what she wastes or utilizes, and the high wages paid a first-class cook are often saved by the intelligent use she makes of all her materials. Many of her best entrées are but a combination of odds and ends which another cook would throw away. Her delicious sauce, which gives a very ordinary dish that requisite something which makes it highly esteemed, may be but the blending of many flavors obtained from little scraps.The waste in foods need be so small as practically to have no waste material; not a crumb of bread, a grain of sugar, a bit of butter, a scrap of meat or fat, a piece of vegetable or leaf of salad, but can be utilized with profit. The soup pot is a receptacle for everything too small for other uses, and from this source can be drawn seasonings which will give richness and flavor to innumerable dishes, which are greatly improved by using stock instead of milk or water in their preparation.
Asa rule the family life of America does not represent opulence, yet it has become a familiar saying that a French family could live on what an American family throws away. Again, it is said that in American kitchens half the provisions are spoiled and the other half wasted. There is no need to-day of being open to such accusations. At small expense a woman can have the benefit of lessons in cooking-schools, and should not be accepted as a cook until she has some knowledge of the duties, and is qualified to bear that name. The gage of a woman’s rank in her profession can be definitely determined by what she wastes or utilizes, and the high wages paid a first-class cook are often saved by the intelligent use she makes of all her materials. Many of her best entrées are but a combination of odds and ends which another cook would throw away. Her delicious sauce, which gives a very ordinary dish that requisite something which makes it highly esteemed, may be but the blending of many flavors obtained from little scraps.
The waste in foods need be so small as practically to have no waste material; not a crumb of bread, a grain of sugar, a bit of butter, a scrap of meat or fat, a piece of vegetable or leaf of salad, but can be utilized with profit. The soup pot is a receptacle for everything too small for other uses, and from this source can be drawn seasonings which will give richness and flavor to innumerable dishes, which are greatly improved by using stock instead of milk or water in their preparation.
Bread.Trimsuch pieces of cut bread as will do for toast into uniform shape and serve at the next breakfast. Smaller pieces cut into croûtons (page81) for garnishing or for soup. Save unshapely pieces for bread pudding, Brown Betty, or stuffings. Save every scrap of bread for crumbs, to use for breading croquettes, chops, scallop dishes, etc. It is well to have two kinds of crumbs, using the white ones for the outside of fried articles, as they give a better color. To prepare the crumbs, separate the crumb from the crusts of bread and dry each of them slowly, on separate tins, on the shelf of the range. When dry, roll, sift and place them in glass preserve-jars until wanted.Fat.Clarify all beef fat and drippings, the grease which rises on soup stock, and fat from poultry, and keep in a clean jar or tin pail for use in frying; it is preferable to lard (see “frying,” pages72and59). Mutton, turkey, and smoked meat fat has too strong a flavor to be used for frying, but save it with other fat that may be unsuitable for frying, and when six pounds are collected make it into hard soap (page259).Use the marrow of beef bones on toast for a luncheon entrée (page159), or use it with bread to make balls for soup (page94).Grill wings and legs of fowls that are left over (page188) for luncheon, or stuff the legs as directed (page188). If the sinews are removed from the legs when the fowl is drawn, as directed (page180), themeat of the leg will be as good as that of the second joint.Use a ham bone for improving bean soup. Use the carcasses of fowls and the bones from roasts for making soup.Try out chop bones and other meat taken from the plates for soap fat.Tough Pieces.Chop the tough ends of steak very fine, season, and form them into balls or cakes, sauté or broil them, and serve for breakfast or luncheon (see “Hamburg steaks,” page151).Small Pieces, Cold Meats.Cut pieces of white meat into dice or strips, mix it with a white sauce, turn it into a flat dish, make a border of pointed croûtons, sprinkle over the top a little chopped parsley, and garnish with hard-boiled egg; or mix the meat with aspic jelly in a mold and serve cold with salad.Mix dark meats of any kind with a brown sauce, and garnish with lettuce leaves, hard-boiled eggs, and croûtons. Any kind of cold meat may be chopped and used in an omelet, or combined with rice and tomatoes for a scallop. For cold mutton see “Ragoût of Mutton” (page165).Eggs.Save egg-shells to clear soup, jellies, or coffee. Boiled eggs that are left return to the fire and boil them hard to use for garnishing, to mix with salad, or to make golden toast (page270) for luncheon. Cold poached eggs can be boiled hard and used in the same way. Cold fried or scrambled eggs can be chopped and mixed with minced meat, and will much improve it.When an egg is opened for the white alone, drop the yolk carefully into a cup, cover the cup with a wet cloth, and keep it in the ice-box until wanted. When whites are left over make a small angel cake (page467), angel ice cream (page497), kisses (page475),or cover any dessert with meringue, or serve a meringue sauce (page448) with the next dessert, or make a meat soufflé without yolks (page190).General Odds and Ends.Everything too small to utilize in other ways put in the soup pot, and from this can be drawn sauces and seasoning for minces, scallops, etc., that will often be better than specially prepared stock.Cereals.Oatmeal, hominy, cracked wheat, and other cereals which are left over can be added next day to the fresh stock, for they are improved by long boiling and do not injure the new supply, or such as is left can be molded in large or in small forms, and served cold with cream, or milk and sugar. In warm weather cereals are nicer cold than hot. Cold hominy and mush, cut into squares and fried, so that a crisp crust is formed on both sides,—also hominy or farina, rolled into balls and fried,—are good used in place of a vegetable or as a breakfast dish.Any of the cereals make good pancakes, or a small amount added to the ordinary pancake batter improves it.Cold rice can be added to soup, or made into croquettes, or used in a scallop dish, or mixed with minced meat and egg and fried like an omelet. Cold rice pudding can be cut into rounded pieces with a spoon and served again on a flat dish; this may be covered with whipped cream or flavored whipped white of egg.Vegetables.A small amount of vegetables left over may go into the soup, or may be mixed with a ragoût. Peas, tomatoes, or beans can be put in an omelet. A number of vegetables mixed together can be used for a salad. Cauliflower broken into flowerets, covered with white sauce, and sprinkled with grated cheese, makes “cauliflowerau gratin,” a dish which is much liked.The coarse stalks and roots of celery make a good vegetable dish when cut in pieces and boiled, or they make a good cream-of-celery soup. The leaves are valuable in the soup pot for flavor; also are useful for garnishing.Sour Milk.Sour milk makes cottage cheese, or makes good biscuits.For uses of stale cakes see page411.For jellies left over see page418.Fruits.When fruits show signs of deterioration, stew them at once instead of letting them decay. Seecompotes. Stew apple parings and cores to a pulp and strain; this will make a jelly which, spread on apple tart, greatly improves it.Boil lemon and orange peels in sugar, and dry as directed, page527, for candied peels.Cheese.Grate cheese which becomes dry and use forgratindishes or soups; or it can be served with crackers the same as though in its original shape.
Bread.Trimsuch pieces of cut bread as will do for toast into uniform shape and serve at the next breakfast. Smaller pieces cut into croûtons (page81) for garnishing or for soup. Save unshapely pieces for bread pudding, Brown Betty, or stuffings. Save every scrap of bread for crumbs, to use for breading croquettes, chops, scallop dishes, etc. It is well to have two kinds of crumbs, using the white ones for the outside of fried articles, as they give a better color. To prepare the crumbs, separate the crumb from the crusts of bread and dry each of them slowly, on separate tins, on the shelf of the range. When dry, roll, sift and place them in glass preserve-jars until wanted.
Fat.Clarify all beef fat and drippings, the grease which rises on soup stock, and fat from poultry, and keep in a clean jar or tin pail for use in frying; it is preferable to lard (see “frying,” pages72and59). Mutton, turkey, and smoked meat fat has too strong a flavor to be used for frying, but save it with other fat that may be unsuitable for frying, and when six pounds are collected make it into hard soap (page259).
Use the marrow of beef bones on toast for a luncheon entrée (page159), or use it with bread to make balls for soup (page94).
Grill wings and legs of fowls that are left over (page188) for luncheon, or stuff the legs as directed (page188). If the sinews are removed from the legs when the fowl is drawn, as directed (page180), themeat of the leg will be as good as that of the second joint.
Use a ham bone for improving bean soup. Use the carcasses of fowls and the bones from roasts for making soup.
Try out chop bones and other meat taken from the plates for soap fat.
Tough Pieces.Chop the tough ends of steak very fine, season, and form them into balls or cakes, sauté or broil them, and serve for breakfast or luncheon (see “Hamburg steaks,” page151).
Small Pieces, Cold Meats.Cut pieces of white meat into dice or strips, mix it with a white sauce, turn it into a flat dish, make a border of pointed croûtons, sprinkle over the top a little chopped parsley, and garnish with hard-boiled egg; or mix the meat with aspic jelly in a mold and serve cold with salad.
Mix dark meats of any kind with a brown sauce, and garnish with lettuce leaves, hard-boiled eggs, and croûtons. Any kind of cold meat may be chopped and used in an omelet, or combined with rice and tomatoes for a scallop. For cold mutton see “Ragoût of Mutton” (page165).
Eggs.Save egg-shells to clear soup, jellies, or coffee. Boiled eggs that are left return to the fire and boil them hard to use for garnishing, to mix with salad, or to make golden toast (page270) for luncheon. Cold poached eggs can be boiled hard and used in the same way. Cold fried or scrambled eggs can be chopped and mixed with minced meat, and will much improve it.
When an egg is opened for the white alone, drop the yolk carefully into a cup, cover the cup with a wet cloth, and keep it in the ice-box until wanted. When whites are left over make a small angel cake (page467), angel ice cream (page497), kisses (page475),or cover any dessert with meringue, or serve a meringue sauce (page448) with the next dessert, or make a meat soufflé without yolks (page190).
General Odds and Ends.Everything too small to utilize in other ways put in the soup pot, and from this can be drawn sauces and seasoning for minces, scallops, etc., that will often be better than specially prepared stock.
Cereals.Oatmeal, hominy, cracked wheat, and other cereals which are left over can be added next day to the fresh stock, for they are improved by long boiling and do not injure the new supply, or such as is left can be molded in large or in small forms, and served cold with cream, or milk and sugar. In warm weather cereals are nicer cold than hot. Cold hominy and mush, cut into squares and fried, so that a crisp crust is formed on both sides,—also hominy or farina, rolled into balls and fried,—are good used in place of a vegetable or as a breakfast dish.
Any of the cereals make good pancakes, or a small amount added to the ordinary pancake batter improves it.
Cold rice can be added to soup, or made into croquettes, or used in a scallop dish, or mixed with minced meat and egg and fried like an omelet. Cold rice pudding can be cut into rounded pieces with a spoon and served again on a flat dish; this may be covered with whipped cream or flavored whipped white of egg.
Vegetables.A small amount of vegetables left over may go into the soup, or may be mixed with a ragoût. Peas, tomatoes, or beans can be put in an omelet. A number of vegetables mixed together can be used for a salad. Cauliflower broken into flowerets, covered with white sauce, and sprinkled with grated cheese, makes “cauliflowerau gratin,” a dish which is much liked.
The coarse stalks and roots of celery make a good vegetable dish when cut in pieces and boiled, or they make a good cream-of-celery soup. The leaves are valuable in the soup pot for flavor; also are useful for garnishing.
Sour Milk.Sour milk makes cottage cheese, or makes good biscuits.
For uses of stale cakes see page411.
For jellies left over see page418.
Fruits.When fruits show signs of deterioration, stew them at once instead of letting them decay. Seecompotes. Stew apple parings and cores to a pulp and strain; this will make a jelly which, spread on apple tart, greatly improves it.
Boil lemon and orange peels in sugar, and dry as directed, page527, for candied peels.
Cheese.Grate cheese which becomes dry and use forgratindishes or soups; or it can be served with crackers the same as though in its original shape.
Thereis to-day such a variety of well-preserved foods that a store-closet provided with these articles may be almost the equivalent of a full larder. With such a resource the housekeeper can meet without embarrassment the emergencies that may arise in any household, however well ordered. In the country, where tradespeople are difficult to reach, it will be especially useful at such times. The articles sealed in glass jars seem the most wholesome, and are sometimes so well preserved as to be a very good substitute for the fresh ones. Salted meats and fish are distinctive foods, which are occasionally very acceptable, and the dessicated foods are beyond suspicion of unwholesomeness. A few suggestions are offered of how to utilize some of the articles which can be recommended. Many of the soups are excellent; chicken gumbo is particularly good. Extract of beef can be quickly made into soup, beef-tea, or aspic jelly (page322). Canned salmon and chicken, either of them, can be heated and covered with a white sauce, or be used for salad, or the salmon may be broiled and covered with a maître d’hôtel sauce (page286).Potted meats spread on toast make excellent canapés for luncheon (page368). Shrimps make a salad, or in a chafing-dish can be preparedà la Newburg(page333). Of the salted and smoked meats are ham, bacon, dried tongue, chipped beef, codfish, smoked salmon, and mackerel, all of which are much esteemed as breakfast dishes, and may be offered at luncheonor supper. Of the vegetables, string-beans and flageolets make good salads. Asparagus makes a good extra course served alone. Tomatoes, the cheapest of all, and perhaps the most useful, will make soup, sauces, a scallop dish, or may be added to an omelet, macaroni, or rice. Pilot bread, toasted bread in slices, and rusks make delicious cream-toasts for luncheon or supper. Noodles or macaroni boiled plain for a vegetable, or mixed with any sauce, tomatoes, or cheese. Cheese is useful for canapés (pages368-371), cheese soufflé (page370), macaroni, etc. There are varieties of plain and fancy cracker biscuits which can be used in the place of cake. Plum-puddings wrapped in tin-foil will keep indefinitely. The canned whole apples can be used for dumplings (page429) or pies. California apricots or cherries around a form of plain boiled rice, hominy, or other cereal, make a dessert; peaches make a shortcake (page443); jams make delicious tarts, or, served alone with cracker biscuits, are a sufficient dessert for luncheon. Plain boiled rice may be used as a vegetable in place of potatoes; or, sweetened and mixed with a few raisins, or served with stewed prunes, makes a dessert.There are prepared flours from which biscuits may be quickly made; prepared buckwheat which makes good pancakes for supper or for breakfast. A few cans of condensed milk should be in the store-room for use in case of real necessity only; it answers very well for puddings, sweet dishes, or chocolate.Outside the store-room supplies, eggs furnish a variety of dishes quickly prepared. Eggsà l’aurore, orBourguignonne, omelets with peas, tomatoes, mushrooms, minced meat, etc., are for luncheon, and cheese omelets, sweet omelets, and soufflés for dinner dishes.It is well to have fondant (page513) in close jarsready for icing cakes or for bonbons, candied fruits for sweets or for ornamenting desserts, ginger and brandied peaches to serve with ice-cream. Lady-fingers are easily made, and will keep in a cracker-box indefinitely. If these are at hand, a Charlotte russe is quickly made, and is one of the simplest and most acceptable light desserts.There are olives, gherkins, and chow-chow forhors d'œuvres. There are catsups and condiments in variety to make barbecues (page331), or to make cold meats acceptable.The growing plant, the globe of gold fish, the bird-cage partly concealed with branches, may be utilized for table decoration. As circumstances alter cases, there are many expedients to which a housekeeper may resort in supplying deficiencies which might not be in rule, were the occasion a formal one. The chafing-dish on the luncheon or supper-table, or a dish more appropriate to a different meal, would not only be excused, but perhaps give to an embarrassing occasion the pleasant feature of informality.
Thereis to-day such a variety of well-preserved foods that a store-closet provided with these articles may be almost the equivalent of a full larder. With such a resource the housekeeper can meet without embarrassment the emergencies that may arise in any household, however well ordered. In the country, where tradespeople are difficult to reach, it will be especially useful at such times. The articles sealed in glass jars seem the most wholesome, and are sometimes so well preserved as to be a very good substitute for the fresh ones. Salted meats and fish are distinctive foods, which are occasionally very acceptable, and the dessicated foods are beyond suspicion of unwholesomeness. A few suggestions are offered of how to utilize some of the articles which can be recommended. Many of the soups are excellent; chicken gumbo is particularly good. Extract of beef can be quickly made into soup, beef-tea, or aspic jelly (page322). Canned salmon and chicken, either of them, can be heated and covered with a white sauce, or be used for salad, or the salmon may be broiled and covered with a maître d’hôtel sauce (page286).
Potted meats spread on toast make excellent canapés for luncheon (page368). Shrimps make a salad, or in a chafing-dish can be preparedà la Newburg(page333). Of the salted and smoked meats are ham, bacon, dried tongue, chipped beef, codfish, smoked salmon, and mackerel, all of which are much esteemed as breakfast dishes, and may be offered at luncheonor supper. Of the vegetables, string-beans and flageolets make good salads. Asparagus makes a good extra course served alone. Tomatoes, the cheapest of all, and perhaps the most useful, will make soup, sauces, a scallop dish, or may be added to an omelet, macaroni, or rice. Pilot bread, toasted bread in slices, and rusks make delicious cream-toasts for luncheon or supper. Noodles or macaroni boiled plain for a vegetable, or mixed with any sauce, tomatoes, or cheese. Cheese is useful for canapés (pages368-371), cheese soufflé (page370), macaroni, etc. There are varieties of plain and fancy cracker biscuits which can be used in the place of cake. Plum-puddings wrapped in tin-foil will keep indefinitely. The canned whole apples can be used for dumplings (page429) or pies. California apricots or cherries around a form of plain boiled rice, hominy, or other cereal, make a dessert; peaches make a shortcake (page443); jams make delicious tarts, or, served alone with cracker biscuits, are a sufficient dessert for luncheon. Plain boiled rice may be used as a vegetable in place of potatoes; or, sweetened and mixed with a few raisins, or served with stewed prunes, makes a dessert.
There are prepared flours from which biscuits may be quickly made; prepared buckwheat which makes good pancakes for supper or for breakfast. A few cans of condensed milk should be in the store-room for use in case of real necessity only; it answers very well for puddings, sweet dishes, or chocolate.
Outside the store-room supplies, eggs furnish a variety of dishes quickly prepared. Eggsà l’aurore, orBourguignonne, omelets with peas, tomatoes, mushrooms, minced meat, etc., are for luncheon, and cheese omelets, sweet omelets, and soufflés for dinner dishes.
It is well to have fondant (page513) in close jarsready for icing cakes or for bonbons, candied fruits for sweets or for ornamenting desserts, ginger and brandied peaches to serve with ice-cream. Lady-fingers are easily made, and will keep in a cracker-box indefinitely. If these are at hand, a Charlotte russe is quickly made, and is one of the simplest and most acceptable light desserts.
There are olives, gherkins, and chow-chow forhors d'œuvres. There are catsups and condiments in variety to make barbecues (page331), or to make cold meats acceptable.
The growing plant, the globe of gold fish, the bird-cage partly concealed with branches, may be utilized for table decoration. As circumstances alter cases, there are many expedients to which a housekeeper may resort in supplying deficiencies which might not be in rule, were the occasion a formal one. The chafing-dish on the luncheon or supper-table, or a dish more appropriate to a different meal, would not only be excused, but perhaps give to an embarrassing occasion the pleasant feature of informality.
Eggs.A dashof salt added to the whites of eggs makes them whip better.Not a speck of the yolk must get into the whites which are to be whipped.Fold the whipped whites into any mixture rather than stir them in, as the latter method breaks the air cells.Break eggs one at a time into a saucer, so any can be rejected if necessary and the mixture not be spoiled.Add a tablespoonful of water to an egg used for crumbing in order to remove the stringiness.Use a double boiler for milk.Milk.Milk is scalded when the water in the lower pan boils.A pinch of bi-carbonate of soda mixed with tomato before milk or cream is added prevents the milk from curdling.With sour milk, or molasses, use soda instead of baking powder.Butter.Milk and butter should be kept in closely covered vessels, as they readily absorb flavor and odor from other articles.Butter added slowly in small bits to creamy mixtures, or sauces, prevents a greasy line forming.Crumbs.Crumbs grated directly from the loaf give a more delicate color than dried crumbs to fried articles.Dried crumbs absorb more moisture, and are better for watery dishes.Crumbs spread over the tops of dishes should be mixed evenly with melted butter over the fire; thisis a better method than having lumps of butter dotted over the crumbs after they are spread.When the sauce bubbles through the crumbs on top of a scallop dish, the cooking is completed.Meats.Meat should not be washed. It can be cleaned by rubbing with a wet cloth, or by scraping with a knife.Drippings are better than water for basting meats.Meats should not be pierced while cooking.Soak salt fish with the skin side up over night. Change the water several times.To skim sauces, draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, throw in a teaspoonful of cold water, and the grease will rise so that it can be easily taken off.A few drops of onion juice improve made-over meat dishes; not enough need be used to give a pronounced onion flavor.Drippings.The skimming from soups, drippings from any beef roasts, and trimmings from any beef, serve the same uses as lard, cottolene, or butter.Onion Juice.To extract onion juice, press the raw surface of an onion against a grater, move it slightly, and the juice will run off the point of the grater.Chopping Suet.Chop suet in a cool place, and sprinkle it with flour to prevent its oiling and sticking together. Remove the membrane before chopping it.Chopping or Pounding Almonds.Add a few drops of rose-water to almonds to prevent their oiling when chopped or pounded.To loosen grated peel, or other articles, from the grater, strike the grater sharply on the table.Mixing.When mixing a liquid with a solid material, add but little liquid at a time and stir constantly to prevent lumping.When adding cornstarch, arrowroot, or any starchy material to hot liquid, first mix it with enough cold water, or milk, to make it fluid; pour it in slowly and stir constantly until it becomes clear.Gelatine.Soak gelatine in a cool place for an hour in cold water or milk. It will then quickly dissolve in hot liquid and have no odor. If jellied dishes do not stiffen, add more gelatine; boiling down will not effect the purpose.Molds.Grease molds evenly with butter or oil, using a brush. Lumps of butter on the side of molds leave an uneven surface on the article cooked or molded in them. Molds for jellies are not greased.Invert a dish over a mold before turning it, so that the form will not break; also, place it in exactly the right spot before lifting off the mold.Strainers.It is desirable to pass all liquid mixtures through a strainer to make them perfectly smooth.To keep Dishes Warm.To keep dishes warm until time of serving, place the saucepan in a pan of hot water.Flavoring.Any flavoring is added after the mixture is cooked, excepting for baked dishes. Wine increases the taste of salt, therefore, where wine is used for flavoring, very little salt should be put in until after the wine is used, when more can be added if necessary.Dishes which are to be frozen need an extra amount of sweetening.Raisins.Flour raisins before adding them to a mixture in order to prevent their settling to the bottom.Baking.Never slam the oven door, or jar any rising material while it is baking.Anything being cooked for the second time needs a hot oven.
Eggs.A dashof salt added to the whites of eggs makes them whip better.
Not a speck of the yolk must get into the whites which are to be whipped.
Fold the whipped whites into any mixture rather than stir them in, as the latter method breaks the air cells.
Break eggs one at a time into a saucer, so any can be rejected if necessary and the mixture not be spoiled.
Add a tablespoonful of water to an egg used for crumbing in order to remove the stringiness.
Use a double boiler for milk.
Milk.Milk is scalded when the water in the lower pan boils.
A pinch of bi-carbonate of soda mixed with tomato before milk or cream is added prevents the milk from curdling.
With sour milk, or molasses, use soda instead of baking powder.
Butter.Milk and butter should be kept in closely covered vessels, as they readily absorb flavor and odor from other articles.
Butter added slowly in small bits to creamy mixtures, or sauces, prevents a greasy line forming.
Crumbs.Crumbs grated directly from the loaf give a more delicate color than dried crumbs to fried articles.
Dried crumbs absorb more moisture, and are better for watery dishes.
Crumbs spread over the tops of dishes should be mixed evenly with melted butter over the fire; thisis a better method than having lumps of butter dotted over the crumbs after they are spread.
When the sauce bubbles through the crumbs on top of a scallop dish, the cooking is completed.
Meats.Meat should not be washed. It can be cleaned by rubbing with a wet cloth, or by scraping with a knife.
Drippings are better than water for basting meats.
Meats should not be pierced while cooking.
Soak salt fish with the skin side up over night. Change the water several times.
To skim sauces, draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, throw in a teaspoonful of cold water, and the grease will rise so that it can be easily taken off.
A few drops of onion juice improve made-over meat dishes; not enough need be used to give a pronounced onion flavor.
Drippings.The skimming from soups, drippings from any beef roasts, and trimmings from any beef, serve the same uses as lard, cottolene, or butter.
Onion Juice.To extract onion juice, press the raw surface of an onion against a grater, move it slightly, and the juice will run off the point of the grater.
Chopping Suet.Chop suet in a cool place, and sprinkle it with flour to prevent its oiling and sticking together. Remove the membrane before chopping it.
Chopping or Pounding Almonds.Add a few drops of rose-water to almonds to prevent their oiling when chopped or pounded.
To loosen grated peel, or other articles, from the grater, strike the grater sharply on the table.
Mixing.When mixing a liquid with a solid material, add but little liquid at a time and stir constantly to prevent lumping.
When adding cornstarch, arrowroot, or any starchy material to hot liquid, first mix it with enough cold water, or milk, to make it fluid; pour it in slowly and stir constantly until it becomes clear.
Gelatine.Soak gelatine in a cool place for an hour in cold water or milk. It will then quickly dissolve in hot liquid and have no odor. If jellied dishes do not stiffen, add more gelatine; boiling down will not effect the purpose.
Molds.Grease molds evenly with butter or oil, using a brush. Lumps of butter on the side of molds leave an uneven surface on the article cooked or molded in them. Molds for jellies are not greased.
Invert a dish over a mold before turning it, so that the form will not break; also, place it in exactly the right spot before lifting off the mold.
Strainers.It is desirable to pass all liquid mixtures through a strainer to make them perfectly smooth.
To keep Dishes Warm.To keep dishes warm until time of serving, place the saucepan in a pan of hot water.
Flavoring.Any flavoring is added after the mixture is cooked, excepting for baked dishes. Wine increases the taste of salt, therefore, where wine is used for flavoring, very little salt should be put in until after the wine is used, when more can be added if necessary.
Dishes which are to be frozen need an extra amount of sweetening.
Raisins.Flour raisins before adding them to a mixture in order to prevent their settling to the bottom.
Baking.Never slam the oven door, or jar any rising material while it is baking.
Anything being cooked for the second time needs a hot oven.