CHAP. LII.Of Ratafia.
Ratafiais a Liquor in great Esteem, and most Persons are acquainted with it; tho’ the true Method of making it is known only to a few. There are various Kinds of Ratafia made from different Fruits. I shall give Recipes for making those which are at present in most Esteem; which may serve as Instances for making these Goods from any other Kinds of Fruit.
1.Of red Ratafia.
There are three Sorts of Ratafia drawn from red Fruits, distinguished by the Epithetsfine,dry, andcommon.
The Fruits most proper to make the red Ratafia are the black Heart Cherry, the common red Cherry, the black Cherry, the Merry or Honey Cherry, the Strawberry, the Rasberry, the red Gooseberry, and the Mulberry.
These Fruits should be gathered in the Height of their respective Seasons and the largest and most beautiful of them chosen for the purpose.
Thus with regard to the Heart Cherry, it should be large, fleshy, and thorough but not over ripe; for then a Part of its Juice will be evaporated on the Tree: Care must be also taken, that its Colour be not decayed; but clear and almost transparent, and well tasted.
The black Cherry, or as it is often called, the black Arvon, must be extremely ripe, because it is used to colour the Ratafia when that of the other fails. The Criterion of judging when it is thoroughly ripe is its Blackness; for, when in Perfection, it is perfectly black. It should also be remembered that this Fruit is better and more profitable in Proportion to its Sweetness; as the Flavour of the Ratafia will be rendered more agreeable, and a less Quantity of Sugar necessary.
As the Gooseberry is an acid Fruit, it must be chosen as ripe as possible. The Fruit large, and the Skin and Husk so transparent as to see the Seeds through it. The Gooseberry should be used immediately after its being gathered; for it is very liable to ferment, which will inevitably spoil the Ratafia. Gooseberries are chiefly used to render the Ratafia dry or sharp, and consequently less soft; and therefore their Quantity should always be proportioned to that Intention.
The Merry to be good should be small, black, the Skin transparent, full of Liquor of deep black Purple Colour. The greatest Care should be taken, that it be fresh gathered, and not rotten. It corrects the acid Juices of the other Fruits by its Sweetness, softens the Composition; and is of great Service in colouring the Ratafia.
The Mulberry is of the greatest Service in colouring the Ratafia. It should be chosen large, and fully ripe, at which time it is of a black Purple Colour. Its Taste also greatly contributes to render the Ratafia of a pleasant and agreeable Flavour.
The Strawberry greatly contributes to increase the rich Flavour of the Ratafia; but it must be chosen ripe, and large; fresh gathered and not bruised. Another Caution necessary to this Fruit is, that they are gathered in dry warm Weather; for if gathered in rainy Weather they will want that fine Taste, for which they are so greatly valued.
The Rasberry is also added to augment the Richness of the Liquor, to which its elegant perfumy Taste greatly contributes; by its agreeable Acidity it renders the Flavour morebrisk and agreeable. It must be fresh gathered, full ripe, and free from Spots and Mouldness, which this Fruit is particularly subject to.
Having thus concisely enumerated the Qualities requisite in the several Fruits, to render the Ratafia of a rich and elegant Flavour, we shall proceed to give the best Methods for making Ratafia from them.
Take of the black Heart Cherries twenty-four Pounds; black Cherries four Pounds; Rasberries and Strawberries, of each three Pounds: Pick these Fruits from their Stalks, and bruise them, in which Condition let them continue twelve Hours; press out the Juice, and, to every Pint of it add a Quarter of a Pound of Sugar. When the Sugar is dissolved run the whole through the filtrating Bag, and add to it three Quarts of clean Proof Spirits. Then take of Cinnamon four Ounces; of Mace an Ounce; and of Cloves two Drams. Bruise these Spices, put them into an Alembic with a Gallon of clean Proof Spirits and two Quarts of Water, and draw off a Gallon with a brisk Fire. Add as much of this spicy Spirit to your Ratafia as will render itagreeable to your Palate; about one fourth is the usual Proportion.
Ratafia made according to the above Recipe will be of a very rich Flavour, and elegant Colour. It may be rendered more or less of a spicy Flavour, by adding or diminishing the Quantity of Spirit distilled from the Spices.
Some in making Ratafia suffer the expressed Juices of their Fruits to ferment several Days; by this means the Vinosity of the Ratafia is increased; but, at the same time, the elegant Flavour of the Fruits greatly diminished. Wherefore if the Ratafia be desired stronger or more vinous, it may be done by adding more Spirits to the expressed Juice; by which means the Flavour of the Fruits may be preserved, as well as the Ratafia rendered stronger.
It is also a Method with some to tie the Spices in a Linen Rag, and suspend them in the Ratafia. But if this Method be taken it will be necessary to augment the Quantity of Spirit first added to the expressed Juice. There is no great Difference in the two Methods of adding the Spices, except that by suspending them in the Ratafia, theLiquor is generally rendered less bright and transparent.
There is also another Method practised in making Ratafia, which is this: Take the Quantity of Fruit proposed, bruise it, and immediately pour the Spirit on the Pulp. After standing a Day or two express the Juice and Spirit, filtrate it, and add the Sugar and Spices as before. But this Method requires more Spirit than the former, as it will be impossible to press it all out of the Skins and other Parts of the Fruit remaining after the Juice is extracted.
2.Of making fine and dry Ratafia from red Fruit.
Tho’ the Ratafia we have just mentioned will doubtless please the Palates of many People; yet there are others who would prefer a different Sort; it is therefore necessary to know how to make dry as well as sweet Ratafia, if we are desirous of pleasing all Sorts of Palates.
Dry Ratafia is prepared in the same manner as the preceding, but the Ingredients are different.
An equal Quantity of Cherries and Gooseberries are necessary in making dry or sharpRatafia; because the Acidity of the Gooseberries gives the requisite Flavour to this Sort of Liquor. But, at the same time, care must be taken that the Gooseberries be fully ripe; for otherwise, tho’ Gooseberries are more acid before they are ripe than afterwards; yet that Acidity is not the Flavour desired; it is acerb and rough, and will render the Flavour of the Ratafia disagreeable. The same Observation holds good also with regard to the Cherries; they must be fully ripe as in making the soft Ratafia.
Instead of black Cherries used in the Composition of the preceding Ratafia, Mulberries should be used in this: The reason for this Change is, that the Juice of the black Cherry is more sweet and glutinous than that of the Mulberry, and therefore less fit for making dry Ratafia. But the Mulberries must be the ripest and blackest possible, in order to give the better Colour to the Liquor.
More Spirit and less Sugar in proportion to the Juice of the Fruit, is also required in this Composition than in the foregoing; but with regard to the Spices, the same Quantity is generally added to both.
Take of Cherries and Gooseberries, of each thirty Pounds; Mulberries seven Pounds; Rasberries ten Pounds. Pick all these Fruits clean from their Stalks,&c.bruise them, and let them stand twelve Hours; but do not suffer them to ferment. Press out the Juice, and to every Pint add three Ounces of Sugar; when the Sugar is dissolved run it thro’ the filtrating Bag, and to every five Pints of Liquor add four Pints of clean Proof Spirit; together with the same Proportion of Spirit drawn from the Spices in the foregoing Composition.
But it may not be amiss to observe here, that different Distillers use different Quantities of the Spirit drawn from the Spices. The best Method therefore is to imitate the Flavour most universally approved of, which may be easily done by adding a greater or less Proportion of the spiced Spirit.
3.Of mixed Ratafia.
By mixed Ratafia is meant the Juices of Fruits prepared, and ready to be mixed with the Spirit when called for.
Ratafia is composed of Cherries and Gooseberries; of these the best are to be chosen, bruised, and in that Condition suffered to remain some Days to ferment. The Juice is then to be strained off, the Quantity of Sugar and Brandy added, and the whole put into a Cask and close stopped. A Lee or Sediment will fall to the Bottom of the Cask, which Sediment will be of great Use in preserving the Ratafia.
The Proportion of black Cherries must be large in this Ratafia, because the Colour, which this is greatly valued for, chiefly comes from the Juice of that Fruit.
The Sugar must not be put in at once, because the Acidness of the Liquor would cause a considerable Effervescence, but by a little at a time.
These Instructions being observed, a Ratafia of this Kind may be easily made: And as the Spirit is not to be mixed with it, till the Ratafia is called for, a large Quantity of it may be made at a small Expence, when the Fruits are in Perfection, which cannot be done by the common Methods.
Take of common Cherries, thoroughly ripe, four Hundred and fifty Pounds; Gooseberries, large and ripe, two Hundred and twenty-five Pounds; black Cherries ripe and large, fifty Pounds. Bruise these Fruits, and in that Condition let them continue three or four Days to ferment. Then press out the Juice, and add one fifth Part of Spirit; that is, if you have two Hundred and fifty Pints of Juice you must add to it fifty Pints of Spirit. When your Spirit and Juice are mixed put them into a Cask, and for every Pint add three Ounces of Sugar. By this means your Ratafia will be always ready to mix with Spirit.
But as the Proportion of Spirit is but small, it will be necessary to taste your Ratafia at least every Month, lest it should ferment, and by that means lose both its Flavour and Colour. As soon therefore as you perceive the least Alteration in your Ratafia, more Spirit must be added to stop the Fermentation; and by this Method it may be kept the whole Year.
If you have any Ratafia remaining at the End of the Year, you must mix it with that just made, adding a large Proportionof black Cherries; because the Colour in the old Ratafia will not be equal to that of the new. Or you may add to your old Ratafia a proper Quantity of the fresh Juice of black Cherries, which will restore its Colour, and, in a great Measure its Flavour too: So that if your Ratafia has been well preserved, it will, when mixed with fresh Juice of black Cherries, be but little inferior to the new.
4.Of white Ratafia.
As red Fruits are the Basis of that called red Ratafia, so, on the contrary, that made from the Juices of white Fruits is denominated white Ratafia.
There are various Kinds of Ratafia made from various Fruits; but I shall only give Recipes for making three or four Sorts, which will be sufficient for all the rest, as the Method is nearly the same in all.
The Berries of this Kind of Grape are large, and grow extremely close upon the Bunches, which are very long, and have commonly two Shoulders: The Fruit, when ripe, has a rich musky Flavour;but it is commonly very late in Autumn, before these Grapes are in Perfection; and the Berries being so very close upon the Bunches, detain the Moisture in the Centre; so that they often perish: To prevent which some curious Persons look over their Vines, soon after the Grapes are formed, and, with a Pair of Scissars, cut out all small ones, so as to leave the others at a moderate Distance, whereby the Sun and Air are easily admitted, which dissipates the Moisture, and prevents their perishing. There is another Kind of this Grape, called by some the white Frontiniac ofAlexandria, and by others theJerusalemMuscat, which is a very large Grape, and, when ripe, an excellent Fruit; but is rarely brought to Perfection inEngland. The Berries of theJerusalemMuscat, are of an oval Shape, and very large. They grow very loose on the Bunches, are very fleshy and firm, and, when ripe, are of greenish white, and a delicate Flavour.
Either of these Kinds of Grapes will make very fine Ratafia; but which ever of them are chosen, they must be picked from the Stalks, and only the finest Berries made use of. The Stones must also be picked out; for if they are bruised with the Berries, the fine Flavour of the Juice will be greatly diminished.
When you have picked the Grapes from the Stalks, and taken out the Stones, press out the Juice, and filtrate it through a Flannel Bag. Then add the Quantity of Sugar and Spirit, and flavour it to your mind with a Spirit distilled from Spices, in the manner explained below.
The general Proportion of Sugar and Spirit, is, to twenty Pints of the Juice, five Pounds and a Half of Sugar, ten Pints of Spirit, and what Quantity you please of the spicy Spirit.
To make the spicy Spirit, take of Mace one Pound, Nutmegs four Ounces, Spirit three Gallons, and draw off the whole in Balneum Mariæ.
By the same Method you may make red Ratafia from the red Frontiniac; except that the Grapes, when bruised, must be suffered to ferment three or four Days, before the Juice is pressed out; because the Colour, which resides principally in the Skins of the Grapes, will, by that means, be extracted.
The Berries of the red Muscat, or red Frontiniac, are about the Size of those of the white; but grow much thinner on the Bunches. This Grape, when thoroughlyripe, has the richest and highest Flavour of any yet known; but it must have a dry Soil and a South Aspect, otherwise it seldom ripens well inEngland. Besides the above Grape, there is another called by some red Muscat ofAlexandria, and by others redJerusalemMuscat. This is not quite so late in ripening as the white Muscat ofAlexandriaabove described; and for that reason more esteemed. The Berries of this Kind are not quite so large as those of the white, but of the same Form, and equal in Goodness.
5.Of Ratafia from Peaches.
The Ratafia made from the Peach is the finest and richest Flavour of any made from stoned Fruits. It is however necessary to gather the Peach when thoroughly ripe, but, at the same time not to suffer it to hang too long on the Tree: For as, on the one hand, it will not acquire its delicious Flavour and Smell till thoroughly ripe, so, on the other, it will lose both if suffered to hang on the Tree, after it has attained to a full Maturity. Another necessary Caution is, to gather it in fine warm Weather, and near the Middle of the Day; because then both the Flavour and Smell are in the greatest Perfection.
It is also requisite to make Choice of the proper Sorts of Peaches; for there is a remarkable Difference in the Flavour of these Fruits. Gardeners reckon above thirty Sorts of Peaches, but not more than half that number are proper for making Ratafia. I shall therefore give a short Description of those that are most proper, that the young Distiller may not be disappointed in making Ratafia from Peaches.
1. The early Purple (called by theFrenchLa Pourprée hâtive.) This Tree hath smooth Leaves: The Flowers large, and open: The Fruit is large, round, and of a fine red Colour: The Flesh is white, but very red at the Stone; very full of Juice, which has a rich vinous Flavour. This Peach is ripe about the Middle ofAugust.
2. The large, orFrenchMignon. The Leaves of this Tree are smooth, and the Flowers large and open. The Fruit is a little oblong, generally swelling out on one Side, and of a fine Colour. The Juice is very sweet, and of a high Flavour; the Flesh white, but very red at the Stone, which is small, and easily separates from the Flesh. This Peach is ripe in the middle ofAugust.
3. The Chevreuse; or, belle Chevreuse. This Tree hath smooth Leaves, and its Flowers are small and contracted. The Fruit is of a middling Size, a little oblong, and of an elegant Colour. The Flesh is white, but very red at the Stone, from which it separates; full of a rich sugary Juice, and ripens towards the latter End ofAugust.
4. The red Magdalen, called by theFrenchaboutParis,Magdeleine de Courson. The Leaves of this Tree are deeply sawed, and the Flowers large and open. The Fruit is large, round, and of a fine red Colour. The Flesh is white, but very red at the Stone, from which it separates. The Juice is very sugary, and of a rich Flavour. It is ripe the latter End ofAugust.
5.Smith’sNewington. This Tree hath sawed Leaves, and large open Flowers. The Fruit is of a middling Size, and of a fine red, next the Sun. The Flesh is very firm and white, but very red at the Stone, to which it closely adheres. It has a rich sugary Juice, and is ripe the latter End ofAugust.
6. The Chancellor. The Leaves of this Tree are smooth, and the Flowers smalland contracted. The Fruit is shaped somewhat like the Belle Chevreuse, but rounder. The Flesh is white and melting, and separates from the Stone, where it is of a fine red Colour. The Skin is very thin, and the Juice remarkably rich. It ripens about the End ofAugust.
7. The Bellegarde; or, as theFrenchcall it, theGallande. This Tree hath narrow Leaves, and small contracted Flowers. The Fruit is very large and round, and of a deep purple Colour, on the Side exposed to the Sun. The Flesh is white, melting, and separates from the Stone, where it is of a deep red Colour. The Juice is very rich. This Peach is ripe about the beginning ofSeptember.
8. The Bourdine. The Leaves of this Tree are smooth, and the Flowers small and contracted. The Fruit is large, round, and of a fine red Colour next the Sun. The Flesh is white, melting, and separates from the Stone, where it is of a fine red Colour. The Juice is vinous and rich. It is ripe the beginning ofSeptember, and greatly esteemed by the curious.
9. The Lisle; or, as theFrenchcall it,la petite Violette Hâtive. This Tree hath smooth Leaves, and small contracted Flowers. The Fruit is of a middle Size, and next the Sun of a fine violet Colour. The Flesh is of a pale yellow, melting, full of a rich vinous Juice; but adheres to the Stone, where it is very red. This Fruit is ripe the Beginning ofSeptember.
10. The oldNewington. The Leaves of this Tree are sawed, and the Flowers large and open. The Fruit is fair, large, and of a beautiful red Colour next the Sun. The Flesh is white, melting, and closely adheres to the Stone, where it is of a deep red Colour. The Juice is very rich and vinous. It is ripe about the Middle ofSeptember.
11. The Rambouillet, commonly called the Rambullion. This Tree has smooth Leaves, and large open Flowers. The Fruit is of a middling Size, rather round than long, deeply divided by a Furrow in the Middle; of a fine red Colour next the Sun, but of a light Yellow next the Wall. The Flesh is melting, of a bright yellow Colour, except near the Stone, from which it separates, where it is of a deep red. The Juice is rich and of a vinous Flavour. This Fruit ripens about the Middle ofSeptember.
12. The Pourprée; or, as theFrenchgenerally call itPourprée tardive, the late Purple. The Leaves of this Tree are very large, and sawed, the Shoots strong, and the Flowers small and contracted. The Flesh, except near the Stone, from which it separates, and where it is red, is white, melting, and of a rich sugary Juice. It is not ripe till near the End ofSeptember.
13. The Nevette. The Leaves of this Tree are sawed, and the Flowers small and contracted. The Fruit is large, somewhat longer than round, of a bright red Colour next the Sun, and of a pale yellow on the other. The Flesh is melting, full of a rich Juice, and very red at the Stone, from which it separates. It ripens about the Middle ofSeptember, and is esteemed one of the best Peaches.
14. The Royal. This Tree hath smooth Leaves, and small contracted Flowers. The Fruit is large, round, and of a deep red on the Side exposed to the Sun, but of a pale yellow on the other. The Flesh is white, melting, and full of a rich Juice, of a white Colour, except near the Stone from which it separates, where it is of a deep red. This Fruit is ripe about the Middle ofSeptember.
15. The monstrous Pavy of Pomponne. The Leaves of this Tree are smooth; the Flowers large and open. The Fruit is very large and round, many times fourteen Inches in Circumference. The Flesh is white, melting, and closely adheres to the Stone, where it is of a deep red Colour. The Side next the Sun is a beautiful red, and the other of a pale flesh Colour. It ripens about the End ofOctober, and when the Autumn is warm, is an excellent Peach.
The above Description of the different Kinds of Peaches proper for making Ratafia, will be of use to the young Artist, as the fine Flavour of this Liquor in a great Measure depends on a proper Choice of the Fruits used in the Composition; and if the Instructions relating to the Perfections and Ripeness of these Fruits are observed, an excellent Cordial may be easily made in the following manner.
Take your Peaches, bruise them, and instantly strain out their Juice thro’ a Piece of strong Linen. In this Juice, without any Mixture of Water, dissolve your Sugar. And when the Sugar is melted, add the Quantity of Spirit. No Spices must be used in this Ratafia, the fine Flavour of the Peach being far preferable to all Spices inthe World. The Quantity of either the Sugar or Spirit may be augmented or lessened according to your own Judgment, or in Proportion to the Price of your Ratafia.
As soon as the Spirit is added to the dulcified Juice of the Peaches, the whole must be filtrated thro’ a Flannel Bag, put into Bottles close stopped; for the fine Flavour of the Peach will soon be lost unless the Bottles are very well corked. Some also cover the Cork with Sealing-wax, which is not a bad Caution.
If you would have your Ratafia of a bright red Colour, your must let your bruised Peaches ferment a Day or two; by which means the Colour of the Skin, and that of the Flesh near the Stone, will be extracted, and give your Ratafia the Colour desired.
4.Of Orange-flower Ratafia.
The Orange-flower has been already described, Page 127. I shall therefore only add, that the Orange-flowers used in making Ratafia should be large, in their full Perfection, gathered before the Rising of the Sun, and carefully picked from their Stalks,&c.Some blanch the Orange-flowers, by putting them into a small Quantity ofWater, and boiling them a few Minutes over the Fire. But by this Method the most volatile Parts of the Flower are evaporated, by which the Ratafia will lose much of its delicate Flavour.
The best way therefore is to use the Orange-flowers without any previous Boiling.
Take of Orange-flowers fresh gathered, and clean picked from their Stalks,&c.five Pounds, and infuse them six Days in five Gallons of clean Proof Spirit. Dissolve fourteen Pounds of Sugar in five Gallons of Water; and after straining the Spirit from the Flowers, mix it with the Syrup, and filtrate the whole thro’ a Flannel Bag.
Some instead of common Water use the Orange-flower Water; but it will be necessary in pursuing that Method to take care that the Water be fresh made, and very fragrant; for otherwise instead of improving, you will greatly injure the fine Flavour of your Ratafia.
The foreign Distillers keep two Sorts of Orange-flower Ratafia, one they callsingleand the otherdouble. The former is madeaccording to the above Recipe; but in making the latter they use double the Quantity of Orange-flowers, and considerably augment the Proportion of Sugar. It will be needless to give a Recipe for making that Sort of Ratafia, which they calldouble, as the Process is exactly the same.
5.Ratafia ofPortugalOrange.
Ratafia may be made from any Sort of Orange; but that of thePortugalOrange is reckoned the best.
The Oranges must be chosen fair, large, and ripe; and the outer or yellow Peel be carefully taken off. The Juice of the Oranges must be then pressed out, dulcified with Sugar, and mixed with the Spirit: after which the outer Rinds are to be added, and after a proper Infusion, the whole filtrated through a Flannel Bag.
Take of the Juice ofPortugalOranges two Gallons; clean rectified Spirit one Gallon; four Pounds of Sugar; and the outer Peel of ten Oranges. Let the whole infuse a Fortnight, and then filter the Liquor through a Flannel Bag.
Some instead of infusing the Peel as directed in the above Recipe, put the Peel into the Spirit, and distil it in Balneum Mariæ; after which they add the Spirit to the dulcified Orange-juice, and filtrate as before.
The foregoing Recipes for making Ratafia from different Fruits,&c.will be sufficient to instruct the young Distiller in the Method necessary to be pursued for making Cordials of this Kind; for it would be tedious to give Formula’s for making all the Kinds of Ratafia kept by different Distillers. The Method in all is nearly the same; and the Proportion of Sugar and Spirit may be easily discovered by a few Experiments. I shall therefore conclude this Chapter with giving a Recipe for making what is called by ourEnglishDistillers Ratafia, tho’ a very bad Composition.
Take of Nutmegs eight Ounces; bitter Almonds ten Pounds;LisbonSugar eight Pounds; Ambergrise ten Grains: Infuse these Ingredients three Days in ten Gallons of clean Proof Spirit, and filter thro’ a Flannel Bag for use.
The Nutmegs and bitter Almonds must be bruised; and the Ambergrise rubbed with theLisbonSugar in a Marble Mortar, before they are infused in the Spirit.