Overcoat—Chesterfield, Inverness, or Skirted.Coat—Evening dress coat.Waistcoat—White or black, single or double breasted. Ribbed silk, or flowered patterns of satin and silk.Trousers—To match coat, outside seam trimmed with silk braid, fitting a trifle closer over the hips than for ordinary wear, medium width knees and bottoms.Shirts and Cuffs—Plain white, ruffled or plaited bosoms, corded stripes, attached cuffs, domestic finish.Collars—Standing, Poke or lap front.Neckwear—White corded stripe or lawn, string with broad round ends.Gloves—White or Pearl, Grey glace, one button, self-stitched.Jewelry—Plain or Moonstone studs, and links.Hat—Silk, cloth band or opera for theater.Shoes—Varnished calfskin or patent leather button tops or patent leather ties for balls.Style—Peaked broad lapels, rolling to waist with two buttons on each side, natural shoulders, chesty effect.Material—Undressed worsted, English twill or shadow-stripe, in black or dark blue.
Overcoat—Chesterfield, Inverness, or Skirted.
Coat—Evening dress coat.
Waistcoat—White or black, single or double breasted. Ribbed silk, or flowered patterns of satin and silk.
Trousers—To match coat, outside seam trimmed with silk braid, fitting a trifle closer over the hips than for ordinary wear, medium width knees and bottoms.
Shirts and Cuffs—Plain white, ruffled or plaited bosoms, corded stripes, attached cuffs, domestic finish.
Collars—Standing, Poke or lap front.
Neckwear—White corded stripe or lawn, string with broad round ends.
Gloves—White or Pearl, Grey glace, one button, self-stitched.
Jewelry—Plain or Moonstone studs, and links.
Hat—Silk, cloth band or opera for theater.
Shoes—Varnished calfskin or patent leather button tops or patent leather ties for balls.
Style—Peaked broad lapels, rolling to waist with two buttons on each side, natural shoulders, chesty effect.
Material—Undressed worsted, English twill or shadow-stripe, in black or dark blue.
Informal:—Evening dress, for all informal occasions, club, stag, and at home dinners, theaters and informal dinners.
Coat—Evening jacket, Tuxedo.Waist coat—To match coat, dove grey; black corded silk for winter, white for summer, single or double breasted, opening cut "V" shaped.Trousers—To match coat.Shirts—Plaited, or may be of soft or negligee style. Attached cuffs, domestic finish.Collars—High band, fold or wing.Neckwear—String, fancy figured, black or grey ground with black figures, or to match material in waist coat, knot drawn tight, and wide ends.Gloves—Grey, Suede, or tan.Jewelry—To match buttons of waist coat, dull chased gold stud, links, watch fob and seal.Hat—Soft or derby.Shoes—Patent or enamel leather, button tops, or ties.Style—Chesty effect, shoulders trifle wider than natural, shawl collar or peaked lapels rolling low and fronts well cut away below bottom button.Material—Plain or striped unfinished worsted, black, dark, blue or Oxford.
Coat—Evening jacket, Tuxedo.
Waist coat—To match coat, dove grey; black corded silk for winter, white for summer, single or double breasted, opening cut "V" shaped.
Trousers—To match coat.
Shirts—Plaited, or may be of soft or negligee style. Attached cuffs, domestic finish.
Collars—High band, fold or wing.
Neckwear—String, fancy figured, black or grey ground with black figures, or to match material in waist coat, knot drawn tight, and wide ends.
Gloves—Grey, Suede, or tan.
Jewelry—To match buttons of waist coat, dull chased gold stud, links, watch fob and seal.
Hat—Soft or derby.
Shoes—Patent or enamel leather, button tops, or ties.
Style—Chesty effect, shoulders trifle wider than natural, shawl collar or peaked lapels rolling low and fronts well cut away below bottom button.
Material—Plain or striped unfinished worsted, black, dark, blue or Oxford.
Informal Day Dress:—For ordinary occasions, before six o'clock and Sundays.
Overcoat—Chesterfield.Coat—Morning or Cutaway.Waist coat—To match coat, single or double breasted, or quiet pattern of fancy vestings.Trousers—Dark narrow grey or light stripe worsted or cassimere.Shirts and Cuffs—Plain white, attached cuffs.Collar—Poke lap front or wing.Neckwear—Ascot, once over or four-in-hand in somber effects.Gloves—Tan or grey.Jewelry—Gold links and studs, scarfpin, with watch guard.Hat—High silk.Shoes—Varnished calfskin, patent leather, button tops and light colored spats.Style—Chesty effect, oval lapels, with concave edge, shoulders trifle wider than natural, and wadding on extreme points, to give square effect; roll low.Material—Unfinished worsted, diagonal or plain Vicuna.
Overcoat—Chesterfield.
Coat—Morning or Cutaway.
Waist coat—To match coat, single or double breasted, or quiet pattern of fancy vestings.
Trousers—Dark narrow grey or light stripe worsted or cassimere.
Shirts and Cuffs—Plain white, attached cuffs.
Collar—Poke lap front or wing.
Neckwear—Ascot, once over or four-in-hand in somber effects.
Gloves—Tan or grey.
Jewelry—Gold links and studs, scarfpin, with watch guard.
Hat—High silk.
Shoes—Varnished calfskin, patent leather, button tops and light colored spats.
Style—Chesty effect, oval lapels, with concave edge, shoulders trifle wider than natural, and wadding on extreme points, to give square effect; roll low.
Material—Unfinished worsted, diagonal or plain Vicuna.
Day Dress:—For all occasions, before six o'clock; afternoon calls, church, day weddings, receptions, and matinees.
Overcoat—Chesterfield.Coat—Morning frock, for informal, double breasted frock or Prince Albert for formal occasions.Waist Coat—Double or single breasted, to match the coat, or quiet fancy vesting, avoiding extremes.Trousers—Dark narrow stripe worsted, moderately close fitting with slight hip fullness.Shirt and Cuffs—Plain white, round or square cornered, attached cuffs.Collar—Poke, lap front or wing.Neckwear—Ascot, black or white effect, once over, white or Pearl.Gloves—Brown, light tan, self-figured, closed with one button.Jewelry—Gold links, and studs, gold watch guard, and scarfpin.Hat—High silk, cloth band.Shoes—Varnished calfskin, or patent leather, button top with light colored spats.Style—Chesty effect, oval lapels, with small rounded corners, roll low, shoulders trifle wider than natural, raising extreme points with wadding.Material—Unfinished worsted, or diagonal, in black or Oxford.
Overcoat—Chesterfield.
Coat—Morning frock, for informal, double breasted frock or Prince Albert for formal occasions.
Waist Coat—Double or single breasted, to match the coat, or quiet fancy vesting, avoiding extremes.
Trousers—Dark narrow stripe worsted, moderately close fitting with slight hip fullness.
Shirt and Cuffs—Plain white, round or square cornered, attached cuffs.
Collar—Poke, lap front or wing.
Neckwear—Ascot, black or white effect, once over, white or Pearl.
Gloves—Brown, light tan, self-figured, closed with one button.
Jewelry—Gold links, and studs, gold watch guard, and scarfpin.
Hat—High silk, cloth band.
Shoes—Varnished calfskin, or patent leather, button top with light colored spats.
Style—Chesty effect, oval lapels, with small rounded corners, roll low, shoulders trifle wider than natural, raising extreme points with wadding.
Material—Unfinished worsted, or diagonal, in black or Oxford.
Morning and Business Dress:—For general wear during business hours.
Overcoat—Chesterfield, Newmarket, Covert or top coat.Coat—Sack or morning.Waist Coat—Single breasted, with or without a collar, to match coat or fancy vesting.Trousers—To match coat, or striped worsted or cassimere with morning coat.Shirts and Cuffs—White or colored shirt, stiff or soft bosom, attached cuffs.Collars—Wing or high band turndown.Neckwear—Once over, Ascot, four-in-hand or Imperial.Gloves—Tan or grey.Jewelry—Gold links and studs, scarfpin and watch guard.Hats—Derby or Alpine with sacks, high silk or derby with morning coat.Shoes—Calfskin, high or low cut.Style—Single or double breasted for sacks, chesty athleticeffect, two or three buttons, morning or English walking coat with flaps on side.Material—Fancy suitings for sacks. Plain or fancy weave for morning coats. Blue, brown or grey mixtures for sacks; grey or Oxford for morning dress.
Overcoat—Chesterfield, Newmarket, Covert or top coat.
Coat—Sack or morning.
Waist Coat—Single breasted, with or without a collar, to match coat or fancy vesting.
Trousers—To match coat, or striped worsted or cassimere with morning coat.
Shirts and Cuffs—White or colored shirt, stiff or soft bosom, attached cuffs.
Collars—Wing or high band turndown.
Neckwear—Once over, Ascot, four-in-hand or Imperial.
Gloves—Tan or grey.
Jewelry—Gold links and studs, scarfpin and watch guard.
Hats—Derby or Alpine with sacks, high silk or derby with morning coat.
Shoes—Calfskin, high or low cut.
Style—Single or double breasted for sacks, chesty athleticeffect, two or three buttons, morning or English walking coat with flaps on side.
Material—Fancy suitings for sacks. Plain or fancy weave for morning coats. Blue, brown or grey mixtures for sacks; grey or Oxford for morning dress.
Seashore and Lounging Dress:—For summer wear only.
Coat—Norfolk or lounge coat.Belt—Pig or monkey skin.Trousers—To match coat or fancy stripe flannel.Shirts—Colored negligee, cuffs attached, Madras or Oxford.Collar—Fold collar.Neckwear—Four-in-hand, or soft silk tie.Jewelry—Scarfpin, gold links, stud buttons.Hats—Straw, Alpine or golf cap.Shoes—Low shoes of calfskin.Style—Norfolk coat, skeleton lined, single or double breasted sack.Material—Tropical worsted or Tweed, flannel Shetland or homespun. Brown, grey and mixtures.
Coat—Norfolk or lounge coat.
Belt—Pig or monkey skin.
Trousers—To match coat or fancy stripe flannel.
Shirts—Colored negligee, cuffs attached, Madras or Oxford.
Collar—Fold collar.
Neckwear—Four-in-hand, or soft silk tie.
Jewelry—Scarfpin, gold links, stud buttons.
Hats—Straw, Alpine or golf cap.
Shoes—Low shoes of calfskin.
Style—Norfolk coat, skeleton lined, single or double breasted sack.
Material—Tropical worsted or Tweed, flannel Shetland or homespun. Brown, grey and mixtures.
Outing Dress:—For golf and other sports:
Overcoats—Peajacket, short Covert or top coat.Coat—Norfolk jacket or lounge coat.Waist Coat—Double breasted, with or without collar, to match coat, flannel or fancy knit.Trousers—Knickerbockers, for fall and winter, striped flannel, Tweed or homespun matching coat for spring and summer.Shirts—Colored negligee, cuffs attached, Madras or Oxford sweater.Collar—Soft fold, self-collar or stock.Neckwear—Tie or stock.Gloves—Tan or chamois, wool knit, heavy golfing gloves.Jewelry—Scarfpin, links, with watch guard.Hat—Soft felt or cap.Shoes—Calf or russet.Style—Norfolk with box plaits, yoke and belt or plain sack, chesty effect.Material—Tweeds, flannel, or homespun, brown, grey and mixtures.
Overcoats—Peajacket, short Covert or top coat.
Coat—Norfolk jacket or lounge coat.
Waist Coat—Double breasted, with or without collar, to match coat, flannel or fancy knit.
Trousers—Knickerbockers, for fall and winter, striped flannel, Tweed or homespun matching coat for spring and summer.
Shirts—Colored negligee, cuffs attached, Madras or Oxford sweater.
Collar—Soft fold, self-collar or stock.
Neckwear—Tie or stock.
Gloves—Tan or chamois, wool knit, heavy golfing gloves.
Jewelry—Scarfpin, links, with watch guard.
Hat—Soft felt or cap.
Shoes—Calf or russet.
Style—Norfolk with box plaits, yoke and belt or plain sack, chesty effect.
Material—Tweeds, flannel, or homespun, brown, grey and mixtures.
Driving or Motoring Dress:
Overcoat—Burberry of wax waterproof cloth, or duster of linen or rubber silk.Coat—Norfolk or double breasted sack.Waist Coat—Matching coat, flannel or fancy knit.Trousers—Knickerbockers or trousers of flannel, Tweed or homespun, matching coat; breeches and leggings for motoring.Shirts—Fancy flannel. Cheviot or Madras sweater, soft.Collar—Soft fold self-collar or stock.Neckwear—Stock or tie.Gloves—Tan or chamois, soft cape gauntlets, tan or black for the motor car.Jewelry—Links, scarfpin and watch guard.Hat—Soft felt or cap, French chauffeur cap with leather visor for motoring.Shoes—Calfskin or russet with leggins for automobiling.Style—Semi-Norfolk jacket of wax (waterproof) cloth.Material—Tweed, flannel or homespun, Oxford, grey or tan.
Overcoat—Burberry of wax waterproof cloth, or duster of linen or rubber silk.
Coat—Norfolk or double breasted sack.
Waist Coat—Matching coat, flannel or fancy knit.
Trousers—Knickerbockers or trousers of flannel, Tweed or homespun, matching coat; breeches and leggings for motoring.
Shirts—Fancy flannel. Cheviot or Madras sweater, soft.
Collar—Soft fold self-collar or stock.
Neckwear—Stock or tie.
Gloves—Tan or chamois, soft cape gauntlets, tan or black for the motor car.
Jewelry—Links, scarfpin and watch guard.
Hat—Soft felt or cap, French chauffeur cap with leather visor for motoring.
Shoes—Calfskin or russet with leggins for automobiling.
Style—Semi-Norfolk jacket of wax (waterproof) cloth.
Material—Tweed, flannel or homespun, Oxford, grey or tan.
Women's Dress:
Formal dress, for all occasions after six o'clock—weddings, receptions, formal dinners, theater and balls, high neck, long skirt, hat, coat, and gloves, and evening slippers.
For morning and afternoon wear, the tailor made suit with short skirt; for afternoon, the long skirt, hat, high dress walking boot, patent leather, lace or button with cloth tops.
For outing wear, the coat sweater for skating, golfing, and hockey.
For misses' and children's dresses made of the same material, short skirts; the coats may cover the dress, or may be three-quarters or seven-eighths long, may be single or double breasted, to button high around the neck or roll low.
For house wear, the plain tailored shirt waist suit in becoming colors are good form.
For school and street wear, the short skirt, coat three-quartersor seven-eighths long and made of rough material is the more stylish, and is made in a variety of styles.
Gloves for evening wear, Suede, Mousquetaire, elbow and above; length arranging in buttons from eight to twenty-four. In tan, mode, slate, pearl, lavender, yellow, black, and white.
Walking gloves, Havana, Smyrna, tan, oak and mahogany, with two or three buttons, clasps.
Auto gauntlets, buck and cape skin gauntlets in slate, oak and black.
For automobiling, double and single breasted long loose coats, made in a variety of styles, water and dust proof, plain or fancy trimmed, with wind cuffs inside of sleeves, with velvet collars and cuffs.
Material used are rubber faced goods, Mohairs, Chambrays, Satins, Oxfords and Tan plaids, changeable silks and Crepe de Chines.
When selecting goods for dresses or jackets, bear in mind that stripes lengthen, plaids, checks and light materials broaden, and enlarge the person's appearance.
Boys' and youths' clothing from four to eighteen.The materials used for boys' suits, include all the staple cloths, such as unfinished worsteds in stripes and plaids, tweeds, dark and blue serge, plain cheviots, and Scotch mixtures, homespun and corduroy.
The sailor suit is more suitable for the younger boy, and may be made of various materials, such as white, blue, and brown serge or cheviot, and trimmed with braid in a variety of styles, as occasion require and surroundings permit.
The most favorite style for the boy who has outgrown the sailor suit, is the Norfolk coat, single or double breasted, with double or single box plaits, made with or without straight or pointed yoke.
The next in popularity, comes the double or single breasted sack coat; with this and the above, bloomers may be worn, finished at the knee with a buckled band.
The straight trousers are much worn and preferred by some boys, and are considered more dressy when worn with a plaited skirt bosom with attached cuffs, pointed Eaton collar, and a narrow four-in-hand scarf and patent or dull leather shoes.
For every day wear, the plain negligee shirt with yoke back and attached cuffs are worn. With this style shirt, the younger boys from eight to twelve, wear the stiff linen or soft white pique, Eaton collar with round or square corners, or a turn down collar of which the latter is most popular.
The Windsor bow or the narrow four-in-hand scarf may be worn with the Eaton collar.
For outing, a soft flannel negligee style made perfectly plain, with straight attached or the new turn back cuffs, a soft turn down collar attached to the shirt is preferred by some, while others wear the separate linen collar, and have the neck band finished plain. This style of white turndown collar may be worn on all occasions until the age of eighteen, at which time, he may wear almost any style on the maturer man, providing his size will permit.
The plaited shirt bosom is the more dressy style, and may be of white or light colors, with stripes and figures or in solid colors. Young boys do not wear attached cuffs until they are twelve years old, and only then if full grown.
For small parties, dancing classes or weddings, a boy under sixteen may wear a dark blue serge double breasted sack suit or the Norfolk style with bloomers or straight trousers.
A plain white or finely striped white plaited shirt with turn-over collar and dark narrow four-in-hand scarf is in good taste with dull leather or patent leather Oxfords.
Boys' overgarments:—For boys up to twelve, wear the straight double breasted box overcoat; for the older boy, they may be semi-fitting and slightly tapering at the waist, and medium length; storm coats are very long and much box, the materials include fancy Tweeds, Diagonals, Cheviots, Beaver and Kerseys.
At the age of fifteen or sixteen, a boy will require a more distinctive type of evening dress, and for these, the Tuxedo or Dinner Coat is most recommended. The Tuxedo or Dinner Suit may be made of unfinished worsted, diagonal, twills, in black or dark blue, with pointed lapels or shawn collar, silk or satin faced to the edge, and finished with one button.
A black or grey vest may be worn with black tie, but if the occasion be very formal, a white vest and white tie may be substituted, with patent leather pumps.
After a boy has reached the age of eighteen or nineteen, he may adopt the styles of men in scarfs, waist coats, evening clothes, gloves, etc.
Business etiquette. Your duty to your customer requires you to treat them with respect, to do the work to the best of your ability, to give them the best work of your head and hands, and to treat your customers with politeness to show a disposition to please and be a lady or gentleman at all times.
Be independent, but not impertinent.
Do your best to please your customers. Never promise to have garments finished at a given time unless you intend to have them finished at the time promised, and never disappoint a customer if it can possibly be avoided.
Never misrepresent. A reputation for integrity is of almost or quite as much value in your business as a reputation for skill and taste.
Your most valuable customers are refined ladies and gentlemen; you will do well therefore to bear in mind that gentlemen love gentlemen.
Do not breathe in a customer's face.
Dress well, and let your linen be clean; your garments kept well cleaned, pressed and repaired.
Your appearance is a part of your capital in the way of getting business.
When you have garments that have been ready for customers one month, notify them, saying that you will hold them for thirty days longer. Say that in the meantime you wish they would call for them.
Everything for the cleaning, repairing and pressing of clothes may be had at this office. Send samples or explanation of what is required and price list will be forwarded to any address. These goods are sold at the lowest possible margin of profit for handling same, and only to those of our students who have bought the method.
The following is a partial list of what may be had:
Press-jacks, tables, irons, sponge cloths prepared, brushes, scissors, sewing machines, mirrors, desks, chairs,coat, vest, trouser, jacket, and skirt hangers, racks to hang clothes on, chalk, needles, thimbles, tape measures, basting cotton, linen thread, silk thread, buttonhole twist, buttons for coats, vests and trousers to match cloth. Sleeve linings for undercoats, vests, overcoats, waist band lining for trousers, for ladies' jackets and coats. All kinds of silk and satins for body linings, heavy silk facings, for Tuxedos, Prince Alberts, and dress coats; velvet collars, any size, silesias, sateens, rubber tissue, buckles, haircloth, canvas, beeswax, cleaning fluids, moth preventative, and anything used by the cleaner and presser.
Transcriber's Notes:Apparent spelling and printer's errors normalised.Index had entries for pages 20 and 21 (including page numbers) reversed in the original.
Apparent spelling and printer's errors normalised.
Index had entries for pages 20 and 21 (including page numbers) reversed in the original.