Chapter 36

—Put four ounces of powdered sugar and the yolks of five eggs into a small bowl. Beat thoroughly with a spatula for five minutes. Put the whites of the eggs into a copper basin, and with a wire whip beat them to a stiff froth. Add to the sugar and yolks four ounces of flour; mix together gently for half a minute, and immediately add the whites. Beat gently for one minute more, and the preparation will be ready. Take a well-cleaned pastry-bag (No. 1079), slide into it a No. 2 tube, and with a wooden spoon or small skimmer pour the preparation into the bag. When it is all in, close the upper part of the bag very firmly, and lay it aside for one moment. Take two separate sheets of solid brown paper, each measuring seventeen inches long by five inches wide; lay them on the table, one beside the other. Take hold of the lower part of the bag near the tube with the lefthand, and the upper part with the right, press with the latter, and drop the batter on the paper in straight strips four inches long by one inch wide. Make ten of equal size on each paper, being careful to leave an empty space of three quarters of an inch between each. Then with a sugar-dredger sprinkle them lightly with powdered sugar three times, at one minute’s interval between each sprinkling. When finished, lift up one paper at a time, keeping it perfectly straight, and shake off the loose sugar, being particular that the biscuits do not detach from the paper. Now lay them in a pastry baking-pan, and let rest for, two minutes; put them into a slow oven, and bake for twenty minutes, until of a light golden color. Remove, lift them from the pan, and lay on a table to cool off. Have ready a dessert-dish with a folded napkin, then detaching the biscuits gently from the paper with the hands, dress them neatly on the dish, and send to the table.

—Put half a pound of sugar, half a pound of peeled and pounded almonds as forNo. 1207, and four egg yolks into a bowl, and with a spatula mix well together for two minutes. Place the whites of eight eggs in a copper basin, with half a saltspoonful of salt, and with a wire whip beat them to a stiff froth: add this to the above preparation, with three ounces of melted butter, three ounces of flour, and a teaspoonful of vanilla flavoring. Mix slowly together for three minutes. Butter a plain mold holding three quarts; line the interior thoroughly, and pour in the preparation; place it in a moderate oven for an hour and a half, then remove, and let it cool, and unmold. Dress on a dessert-dish with a folded napkin, and serve.

—Prepare the paste exactly as for the above (No. 1232), and when ready have a square tin pan, lined all through with paper. Spread the paste over an inch thick with a knife, and put it in a moderate oven for eighteen minutes. Take it out, and when cool lay the cake on a table; detach the paper, sprinkle the surface freely with powdered sugar, and cut it into any shaped pieces desired. Dress on a dessert-dish with a folded napkin, and serve.

—Proceed the same as for biscuits à la cuillère (No. 1231). After the paste has been placed in the bag, have a well-cleaned pastry baking-pan, well buttered and lightly sprinkled with flour. Drop the paste carefully into the pan, forming biscuits, each about two inches long, by one inch wide. There should be in all about forty biscuits. Place them in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Remove, and lay them on a table. With a hair-brush spread over them six ounces of apricot marmalade (No. 1335), and glaze them with a glace à l’eau (No. 1197), flavored with half a gill of white curaçoa. Sprinkle over them four ounces of finely chopped pistaches; shake the pan lightly, and they will adhere to the glace. Set for two minutes in the oven to get dry; remove, and when cool, dress neatly in a glass bowl, and serve.

—Take two ounces of sweet almonds and half an ounce of bitter, peel, and pound them as forNo. 1207. Then put them in a vessel with eight ounces of powdered sugar. Add the yolks of fiveeggs, and beat the preparation thoroughly for five minutes; then separately beat the whites to a froth with a pastry wire whip, and mix in with the yolks and sugar, adding also one ounce of flour. Stir thoroughly with a wooden spatula until perfectly firm, which will require about five minutes. It is now ready. Have six paper boxes, any shape desired, and fill them with the preparation, using a tablespoon for the purpose. Sprinkle the tops with a little finely powdered sugar, arrange them in a pastry baking-pan, and put in a slow oven for fifteen minutes; they must get a good golden color. Remove, and when cooled off, dress nicely on a dish, and serve.

—Roll half a pound of feuilletage paste (No. 1076) into a piece eighteen inches long by three wide, and pare off the edges lightly. Cut out six square pieces, all the same size, and with a pastry-brush moisten the surfaces with beaten egg. Fold up each piece by laying one corner over the other, so they will have a triangular shape. Put them on a baking-sheet in the oven for twenty minutes; remove them to the oven door; dredge plenty of powdered sugar over, put them back, and close the door for one minute and a half, to allow the sugar to melt thoroughly. Remove from the oven, and cool for twenty minutes. The cakes will have risen about two inches in front. Then, with the thickest part of a larding-needle, make a hollow in front of each cake. Put three ounces of currant jelly (No. 1326) into a paper cornet, and with it fill the insides of the cakes. Dress them on a dessert-dish with a folded napkin, and serve.

—Put into a pastry-bag (No. 1079) half the quantity of biscuits-à-la-cuillère preparation (No. 1231). Butter and flour a baking-sheet, and form about fifty small, round biscuits the exact shape of macaroons. Sprinkle slightly with powdered sugar, and place in a brisk oven to bake for twelve minutes. Remove, and set to cool for fifteen minutes. Then lift them from the pan, and lay them upside down on a table. With a knife make a small cavity in the centre of each, half an inch in diameter, and fill these with a pastry cream (No. 1242). Fasten them, two by two, to enclose the cream; they will then be ball-shaped. Dip carefully one after the other into a glace preparation as for chocolate éclairs (No. 1243). Lay them on a pastry-grate to dry for fifteen minutes; then dress on a dessert-dish with a folded napkin, and send to the table.

—Butter and flour a baking-sheet. Put into a pastry-bag (No. 1079) half the quantity of the biscuits-à-la-cuillère preparation (No. 1231), and drop it on the baking-sheet into Lima-bean-shaped pieces one and a half inches long by half an inch wide. Sprinkle them lightly with powdered sugar, and place them in a brisk oven to bake for twelve minutes. Take them out and let them cool for fifteen minutes, then put them on a table upside down, and in the middle of each one cut a hole one inch long by a quarter of an inch wide. Fill the holes with apricot marmalade (No. 1335), then unite them, two by two, so as to enclose the marmalade and be the perfect shape of Limabeans. Glaze them neatly by dipping them separately into a glace preparation as for éclairs à la vanille (No. 1245), and lay them at once on a pastry-grate to dry for fifteen minutes. Dress them on a dessert-dish with a folded napkin, and serve. The remainder of the paste may be used the following day.

—Peel and pound half a pound of almonds as forNo. 1207; then add two egg whites; when thoroughly pounded, put them into a vessel with ten ounces of powdered sugar, and the grated rind of a good lemon; then, with the hand, knead well together for twenty minutes. Slide a fancy tube (No. 3) into a pastry-bag (No. 1079), and pour in the above preparation. Cover a baking-sheet with brown paper, and holding the top of the bag with the right hand, guide the bottom with the left, and press the paste through onto the paper in small round bits one inch wide and half an inch high. Make ten of these, being careful to keep them one inch apart. Make ten more, shaped like the letter S, using the same quantity as for the others; then ten more, crescent-shaped, or like the letter C; and with the remainder of the paste make ten more, heart-shaped, being careful to keep them from touching one another. Take five candied cherries, cut them in halves, and arrange them on top of the round cakes; have twenty dried currants (No. 1080), and place one on each end of the S. Cut a candied apricot in two, and each half into five slices, and lay them on top of the crescents, and lastly have one ounce of candied angelica cut into very thin strips, and arrange them nicely on the heart-shaped pieces.

It would be advisable to prepare these cakes the evening before they are needed, and lay them aside in a warm place over night. The next morning, glaze them lightly with beaten egg, using a pastry-brush, and place them in a brisk oven to bake for ten minutes. When of a nice brown color, remove, and let them become thoroughly cold. Lift them up carefully with the paper, laying them gently upside down on a table, and with a wet towel moisten the paper, so that the cakes will detach easily. Turn the paper over immediately as it stood before, let rest for two minutes; then remove the cakes. Lay them on a pastry-grate upside down, to allow them to dry for thirty minutes. Dress them on a glass stand with a folded napkin, and send to the table.

—Put into a saucepan two gills of cold milk and two ounces of butter. Place it on the range, stir slightly with the spatula, and when boiling, immediately add a quarter of a pound of well-sifted flour; stir briskly for two minutes. Then stand the pan on a table. Break in one egg; mix sharply for two minutes, break in a second egg, mix sharply again; and repeat with a third and a fourth egg; then the pâte-à-chou is ready.

—Arrange in a pastry-bag (No. 1079), a tube (No. 3); put into it the above quantity of pâte-à-chou (No. 1240), and press out upon a baking-sheet fifteen éclairs, each one three inches long. Bake them in a hot oven for twenty minutes. Remove, and let them cool; then with a pair of scissors open each éclair on one side, and with a spoon fill the interiors with a crême patissière (No. 1242).

—Put a pint of cold milk into a saucepan, and place it on the stove. Mix in another vessel two ounces of powdered sugar, with one ounce of flour, and half an ounce of corn-starch. Break in two whole eggs, and beat well together with the whip for two minutes. When the milk is boiling, add it to the preparation, and after stirring for one minute longer, put it into another saucepan, and place it on the stove. Beat well until it comes to a boil; then remove from the fire, and add immediately a teaspoonful of vanilla essence. Mix thoroughly again for one minute longer; then pour it into a bowl, and let it get cold.

—Put in a saucepan one pound and three quarters of granulated sugar and a gill of cold water. Place on the stove, and with a spatula mix well until the sugar is thoroughly melted, and when boiling remove from the stove, and pour it gradually on a marble slab, on which it will spread about three feet square. Let it cool off for ten minutes. Then cut two ounces of cocoa into small pieces; put them on a plate, and leave them at the oven door to melt. With a spatula begin working the sugar that is on the marble as rapidly as possible in every direction until it begins to whiten; then add the melted cocoa, mixing it thoroughly again until it becomes hard; remove the spatula, and detach the preparation quickly from the marble with a knife. Put it into a vessel, and covering it with a damp cloth, let it rest for thirty minutes. Then place half of it in a saucepan on the hot stove, and with the spatula mix thoroughly and slowly until it is lukewarm, meanwhile adding a teaspoonful of cold water. Take the éclairs, one by one, and with the hand dip them into this preparation. Lay them on a pastry-grate; let them cool off for five minutes; dress on a dessert-dish with a folded napkin, and serve.

Keep the rest of the preparation for further use. When laid aside in a cool place, and properly taken care of, it will be as good in two weeks’ time as when freshly made.

—Have a pâte-à-chou ready, as forNo. 1240; then proceed to make the éclairs. Bake, and fill them with a crême patissière (No. 1242) exactly as for the chocolate éclairs; glazing them the same as forNo. 1243, only instead of cocoa use half a gill of coffee essence (No. 1263). Serve precisely the same.

—Prepare a pâte-à-chou as forNo. 1240. Make the éclairs, bake, and fill them with a crême patissière, asNo. 1242. Glaze them as forNo. 1243, only substituting two teaspoonfuls of vanilla essence for the cocoa, and serving them the same.

—Prepare a pâte-à-chou as forNo. 1240, and put it into the bag. Press it down onto a baking-sheet into six round, equal cakes, about two inches high. Glaze the surface of each with beaten egg. Bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. Watch them carefully, and when they are of a good golden color, remove from the oven and let cool for half an hour. Make an incision on one side, about half-way in the cakes, using a pair of scissors. Fill the insides with crême patissière (No. 1242), and close them again. Dredge well with powdered sugar,and dress on a dessert-dish, with a folded napkin, before sending to the table.

—Put six egg whites into a copper basin, with a light half saltspoonful of salt, and with a wire whip begin beating slowly, but gradually increase until a stiff froth is obtained. Should it become grainy, beat briskly again, adding half an ounce of powdered sugar. (Eight minutes should suffice to have a proper froth.) Remove the whip. Have on a plate one pound of powdered sugar, and with a spatula drop the sugar slowly and carefully over the froth, mixing it in meanwhile with the spatula. This should take about two minutes. Flavor it with any desired flavoring, and it will be ready for use.

—Have six fine apples cooked as forNo. 1169; dress them on a dessert-dish, filling the cavities with currant jelly (No. 1326); then decorate all round and the tops with méringue, prepared as forNo. 1247, half the quantity being sufficient. Sprinkle them moderately with powdered sugar; lay the dish on a baking-pan, and put it in the oven for five minutes. When a light brown color, remove, and serve either hot or cold.

—Put into a sugar-pan one pound of granulated sugar with half a pint of cold water, and place on the hot stove. Have two quarts of ice-water in a vessel, and when the sugar comes to a boil, dip the fingers of the right hand into the ice-water and pass them quickly around the inside of the pan, and let boil for five minutes. Dip a wooden stick, similar to a pen-holder, in the ice-water, then quickly into the boiling sugar, and again in the ice-water, lifting up the stick to feel the sugar that adheres. Should it not be sufficiently consistent to form into a ball, let boil a little longer; then try once more; and should it be a proper thickness, remove from the fire and set it on the corner of the stove, so that it no longer boils. While the sugar is cooking, beat the whites of five eggs in a copper basin until they are a firm froth; and while beating, have an assistant pour very gradually the prepared sugar into the egg-froth; and When all is added, lay the basin containing the preparation into a vessel half filled with ice-water. Remove the whip, and using a wooden spatula, mix gently for five minutes, adding a teaspoonful of vanilla flavoring. Cover the basin with a napkin, letting it rest for ten minutes. Butter and flour a baking-sheet; slide down a fancy tube (No. 3) into a pastry-bag (No. 1079), fill it with the preparation, press down onto the baking-sheet, giving a C-shape, two inches long by one wide, to forty of them; and then forming twenty more, shaped like the letter D. Sprinkle them lightly with powdered sugar; place in a very slow oven, and let bake for fifteen minutes. When baked, these cakes should be perfectly white. Remove them from the oven, let get thoroughly cold; dress on a glass stand, and send to the table.

—Prepare a méringue as forNo. 1247. Slide a tube (No. 4) down a pastry-bag (No. 1079); lay a piece of paper over a baking-sheet, and after putting the méringue into the bag, press it out onto the paper, giving it an egg-shape, two and a half inches long by one inchhigh. There will be enough to make eighteen equal-sized shells. Be careful to keep them one inch apart. Sprinkle over liberally with powdered sugar, and place in a very slow oven to bake thirty minutes. Remove, and set to cool for twenty-five minutes. Then turn the paper containing the shells upside down on the table; and with a wet cloth or brush moisten well the paper; turn them over again, and let rest for two minutes, when the shells will detach easily. With the finger press them gently, one by one, in the bottom, into a perfect shell-shape. Return them to the baking-sheet, laying them upside down, and put them in the oven to dry thoroughly for ten minutes; then leave them to cool for thirty minutes more. Keep them in a dry place, either in a tin or paper box, and use when required. Méringue-shells prepared this way will keep nicely for at least twenty-five days.

—Have a méringue preparation as forNo. 1247; slide down in a pastry-bag (No. 1079) a tube (No. 4). Butter and flour a baking-sheet; make on it one design eight inches in diameter; another exactly the same shape, only six inches, and another of the same, only four inches. Put the méringue into the bag, and press it down gently over and around the first design, making the paste three-quarters of an inch thick; repeat the same for the second and third forms. Press down in the pan some more méringue, making a little cone four inches high, two inches in diameter at the base, and tapering gradually to a point at the top. Sprinkle the whole lightly with powdered sugar, and place the pan in a very moderate oven to bake for twenty-five minutes. Take it out, and let it thoroughly cool for half an hour. Have a quart of whipped crême à la vanille (No. 1254), add to it half a gill of Swiss kirsch and half a gill of maraschino, and with a pastry-whip beat the whole together for three minutes. Have ready a round dessert-dish with a fancy paper over, detach carefully the largest form from the pan, lay it on the dish, detach the second, lay it over the first, and fill the hollow space with half of the cream; now detach the third and smallest piece and lay it over the others, filling it entirely with part of the cream, and finally detach the cover, and arrange it nicely on the top. Pour the remaining cream into the pastry-bag containing the fancy tube, and with it decorate the places where the rings are joined. Then send to the table.

—Put in a copper sugar-pan three ounces of granulated sugar with half a gill of cold water. Toss the pan briskly to melt the sugar well; then place it on the stove, and let it boil slowly until it becomes a light brown color. If a moderate fire, it will require four minutes, but if a brisk one only two will suffice; this will now be a caramel. Take a pudding-mold holding one quart; line the interior with all the caramel, holding the mold in the left hand, and spreading it evenly all round. Put the mold in a cool place, and let it become thoroughly cold. Have one pint of milk in a bowl; break in four eggs, add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and a teaspoonful of lemon essence. Beat well for five minutes; strain through a sieve into another bowl, and fill the mold with this cream. Place it in a tin pan filled with water to half theheight of the mold, and place in a very moderate oven for forty-five minutes. When of a good golden color remove, and cool for at least two hours. Turn it on a dessert-dish, and serve with its own juice.

—Take a pint of whipped cream as forNo. 1254, add three tablespoonfuls of coffee essence (No. 1263), and beat well together for five minutes. Transfer it to a china bowl, and put it in a cold ice-box. When ready to serve, use a spoon to drop the cream carefully upon the centre of a cold, round dessert-dish, keeping it as high as possible, shaping it into a pretty, artistic dome. Send immediately to the table.

—Put a pint of sweet cream into a basin. Have a tub or large dish-pan containing chopped ice and a little water, and lay the basin on top. With a soft wire egg-whip beat the cream slowly at first, and increase in swiftness until it is a firm froth. Sweeten with two ounces of powdered sugar, and add a teaspoonful of vanilla flavoring, beating constantly. Let it rest, and use when needed. Remove all the superfluous milk which may be found with the cream, before using it.

—With a pint of fresh, sweet cream proceed as forNo. 1254, adding a gill of rum, and beating well together for five minutes. Transfer it into a china bowl, and place in the ice-box until ready to use. When serving, have a cold dessert-dish, and with a wooden spoon drop the cream carefully into the centre of the dish, keeping it piled high as possible so to give it a pretty dome form, and send to the table immediately.

—Proceed as forNo. 1255, only substituting a gill of kirsch for the gill of rum; serve in the same manner.

—Prepared the same as crême en mousse au rhum (No. 1255), substituting a gill of maraschino for the rum.

—The same as forNo. 1255, adding a gill of cognac instead of the rum, but serving the same way.

—Substituting a gill of curaçoa for a gill of rum, and proceeding precisely the same as forNo. 1255.

—To be prepared exactly the same, only using a gill of any other liquor desired, and serving the same asNo. 1255.

—Take six small, round charlotte russe molds two and a half inches high, three inches in diameter at the top by two at the bottom. When thoroughly cleaned, line them with biscuits à la cuillère (No. 1231), cut them in two, and should they be higher than the mold, trim them off to the edge. Pour the whipped cream (No. 1254) into a pastry-bag (No. 1079), and fill up the molds. Turn them over onto six dessert-plates, spread a little more cream on the top of each, and cover them each with one macaroon (No. 1210). Dress the rest of the cream nicely around the plates, and serve.

—Line and prepare six small charlotte-moldsas for the above (No. 1261), adding to the whipped cream two tablespoonfuls of coffee essence (No. 1263). Beat thoroughly together for two minutes, then fill the molds, and serve as for the above.

—Take one ounce of good, ground coffee; place it in a small saucepan with half a pint of cold water, and let boil until reduced to about two tablespoonfuls. Then strain through a cloth, pressing it well, and let cool thoroughly. Add it to the cream as described inNo. 1262.

—Put into a sugar-pan one pound of granulated sugar, with half a pint of cold water; place it on a brisk stove. Have a vessel containing two quarts of ice-water, and when the sugar comes to a boil dip the fingers of the right hand into the water, and quickly pass them all around the inside of the pan, being careful to avoid touching the sugar; repeat this two or three times. However difficult this operation may appear, it is essential that it should be done, in order to have the sugar in a perfect condition. Take care to dip the fingers into the ice-water each time. Let the sugar boil; then squeeze in three drops of lemon juice. To know when it is sufficiently boiled, have a thin piece of wood the shape of a larding-needle. Dip the point into the ice-water, and then plunge it into the boiling sugar; remove it quickly, and dip it immediately into the water again. Lift it out, and see whether the sugar adhering to the wood be thoroughly hard. If not, let boil again, and continue to test with the stick as before. To be certain that the sugar is perfectly done, place the point of the stick between the teeth, and bite it. Should the sugar stick to the teeth, it needs more boiling, but if it cracks easily without sticking, it is thoroughly done. Remove it immediately from the fire, and place the bottom of the pan in the ice-water to prevent the sugar from turning brown.

The above cooked sugar can be used for glazing dried fruits and candied fruits of all kinds; also to fasten on pieces of nougat, and to make any kind of caramels, etc., etc.

—Put into a small iron omelet-pan half a pound of granulated sugar, and place on a slow stove, to burn thoroughly for thirty minutes. Remove the pan to the table to cool slightly for five minutes, and then add half a pint of boiling water, mixing well with an iron spoon. Replace the pan on the stove, and boil for five minutes, stirring continually; then strain the sugar through a sieve into a vessel, and put in a cold place to cool thoroughly. Pour it into a bottle, and use when required. Burned sugar prepared this way will keep in perfect condition for several weeks.

—Have ready four ounces of peeled and dried almonds (No. 1207). Cut each into four slices, and lay them in a tin pan with a sheet of paper under them. Put the pan in a warm place, but not on the stove. Take a copper sugar-pan, or dropper, put into it six ounces of powdered sugar, and place it on a hot stove; then with a dry, wooden spatula stir continually, until the sugar is dissolved, being careful to avoid browning it. Remove from the fire, add one drop of lemon juice, and letit cool off slightly for three minutes, stirring constantly; then add the almonds, mixing all gently with the spatula for two minutes. The nougat is now ready for use, and can be molded into cornets-d’abondance, columns, bases, or any shape the fancy may dictate.

—Oil slightly the interior of a small, round base. Take half the nougat, prepared as forNo. 1266, lay it on a marble table (the nougat should always be hot), roll it out very thin with an oiled roller, and with this line the oiled base. Then with a whole lemon sharply press the nougat onto the mold to give it a perfect form, cutting it evenly away all around the edge. Put the pieces with the rest in the pan, and place near the fire to keep hot. Have a small cornet-d’abondance (cornucopia), oil it slightly, and line the inside with half the remaining nougat, rolled out as before, and pressing it the same. Cut away all the superfluous part, and let it cool slightly. Then unmold both the base and cornet. Oil a tartlet-mold, and line it with the rest of the nougat. Lay the base carefully upon a glass stand of suitable size, the covered part uppermost, and fasten to the stand with cooked sugar (No. 1264). With cooked sugar fasten the cornet in the middle, small end uppermost, using cooked sugar for the purpose. Put the remaining piece from the tartlet-mold on top of all, and fasten it in the same way. All this should be done carefully and patiently. Have ready two well-peeled, sound oranges, pull them gently to pieces, looking closely at each separate section to see that the skin is not broken or loosened. Have a quarter of a pound of fresh Malaga grapes, detach them, leaving on each grape about a quarter of an inch of stem. Take also two ounces of candied cherries, plunge the grapes into the cooked sugar (No. 1264), and with a fork lift them up, and immediately lay them on a well-cleaned, oiled, marble table. Treat the pieces of orange and the cherries each the same way. During this time, should the sugar become cool, heat it up once more; fill the cornet with these fruits, dipping one side of each piece into the cooked sugar to make them adhere together. With a part of them fill the tart-shaped piece on top, proceeding in the same manner, and decorate with glace royale (No. 1269).

—Put the white of one egg into a small bowl. Beat it well with a small spatula, adding six ounces of extra fine sugar, and squeezing in three drops of lemon juice. Then continue beating for twenty minutes. When finished, it should be snow-white and pulpy. Make a small brown paper cornet, cut off the lower end, slide down a small fancy tube, and pour in some of the glace royale, covering the remainder of it with a damp cloth. Then with the cornet decorate the edge of the nougat base as in the preceding (No. 1268), also the upper edge, and all around the edge of the cornet, and finish by decorating artistically the tart-shaped piece on top; then send it to the table.

All nougat pieces, when finished, should be kept in a moderate temperature.

—Peel neatly six ounces of sweet almonds and two ounces of bitter almonds (No. 1207).Put in a vessel, cover with cold water, and let them soak for fully one hour. Drain thoroughly through a sieve, and pound them well in a mortar, adding, little by little, a gill of cold water, and continue pounding for ten minutes. Now remove to a vessel and add two gills of lukewarm water, and mix together with the spatula for two minutes. Spread a large napkin over another vessel, pour on the above preparation, lift up the four corners, and holding it with the left hand, squeeze the liquid through with the right. Lay this almond milk aside for further use. Put into a saucepan two gills of cold water, half an ounce of gelatine, a piece of vanilla-bean two inches long and split in two, and four ounces of powdered sugar. Mix well with the spatula for two minutes; remove the spatula, put on the lid, and let infuse for thirty minutes. Then place the saucepan on the hot stove, and stir gently from the bottom, allowing it to boil slowly for four minutes. Remove it from the fire, and let the pan rest on the table for three minutes. Pour in the almond milk, mix again for two minutes, using the spatula, and strain the whole through a fine sieve into another vessel. Have a three-pint, channeled blanc-manger mold; put some broken ice at the bottom of a pail, place the mold on it, arranging more broken ice around the sides, so that the mold be entirely sunk in the ice as far up as the edge. Stir the preparation for one minute, then pour it into the mold, cover the pail with a napkin, and leave it to congeal for one hour. Take up the mold carefully from the pail, wipe off the ice with a towel, and have ready a cold dessert-dish with a folded napkin over. Turn out the blanc-manger onto this; decorate the surface with two ounces of candied cherries and one ounce of angelica, and it is ready for the table.

—Boil in a saucepan one pint of milk with half a vanilla-bean; put in a vessel half a pound of powdered sugar, and six egg yolks, and with a spatula mix thoroughly for ten minutes; then add it to the boiling milk, stirring for two minutes longer, and pour the whole into a copper basin, placing it on a moderate stove to heat for five minutes, stirring at the bottom continually with the spatula, and being careful not to let it boil. Remove from off the fire, place it on a table, and add immediately one pint of sweet cream, still mixing it for two minutes more; let cool off for thirty minutes, then strain through a sieve into an ice-cream freezer; put on the lid, and lay it in an ice-cream tub, filling the freezer all round with broken ice, mixed slightly with rock-salt; then turn the handle on the cover as briskly as possible for three minutes. Lift up the lid, and with a wooden spoon detach the cream from all around the freezer, and the bottom as well. Re-cover it, and turn the handle sharply for three minutes more; uncover, and detach the cream the same as before, being careful that no ice or salt drops in. Put the lid on, and repeat the same three times more. The ice-cream should by this time be quite firm, so have a cold dessert-dish with a folded napkin, dress the ice-cream over, and send to the table.

This same ice-cream can be formed into a single brick by having a brick-shaped form, filling it with the cream, and pressing it down quicklywith a spoon; cover closely, being careful that the form is completely filled, so that no salted water can penetrate into it. Put broken ice at the bottom of a pail, mixing in a little rock-salt, lay the form on top, covering it entirely with broken ice and salt; let freeze for one hour, remove, and bathe it in a vessel containing lukewarm water; wash off the ice and salt that adhere, and lift it out as quickly as possible; remove the cover, and turn it on a dessert-dish with a folded napkin, lift up the mold, and send the ice-cream to the table.

—Prepare and cook exactly the same as for vanilla ice-cream (No. 1271); put in a saucepan two ounces of well-chopped cocoa and an ounce of powdered sugar, add to it half the cream preparation; place the pan on the stove, and with a pastry-whip stir briskly, and let boil for three minutes; take it from the fire, add it to the remaining half of cream, then mix the whole well together for two minutes. Strain through a fine sieve into an ice-cream freezer, let cool for thirty minutes, then proceed to freeze it exactly the same as for the vanilla ice-cream, and serve it also the same.

—Put in a vessel half a pound of powdered sugar and six egg yolks; mix well with the spatula for ten minutes, then add one pint of boiling milk, stir for two minutes longer, and pour the whole into a copper basin; place it on the hot stove, and with the spatula stir gently at the bottom until well heated, but it must not boil. Take from off the fire, set it on a table, then immediately add a pint of sweet cream, mixing again for two minutes, and throw in two ounces of freshly ground Mocha coffee, stirring for two minutes longer; return the basin to the stove, beat it up again with the pastry-whip, and lay it on the table once more. Cover with a napkin, so that the coffee can infuse thoroughly for half an hour, then strain through a fine sieve into the freezer, and proceed freezing, and serving exactly the same as for vanilla ice-cream (No. 1271).

—Prepare and proceed exactly the same as for the coffee ice-cream (No. 1273), suppressing the coffee, and when the cream is cooked and cool, add half a pint of well picked and cleaned strawberries. Mix well with the spatula for two minutes, then strain through a fine sieve into the freezer, pressing the strawberries through with a wooden spoon; remove the sieve, cover the freezer, and proceed to freeze, and serve precisely the same as for vanilla ice-cream (No. 1271).

—Have two ounces of fine, dried pistaches, using only the best quality; put them into a pie-plate, place it in the oven to let the nuts get a light brown color, which will take about six minutes; remove from the oven, lay the pistaches in a mortar with one ounce of granulated sugar, and pound slightly. Have a cream preparation exactly the same as for coffee ice-cream (No. 1273), suppressing the coffee. When cooked, add the pint of sweet cream and the pistache, then place it on the stove and beat well, stirring continually. Remove from the fire, cover the basin with a napkin, and let get thoroughly cool forthirty minutes. Add three drops of orange-flower water and five drops of spinach-green, mix the whole well for two minutes, then strain through a fine sieve into the freezer, and proceed to freeze and serve exactly the same as for vanilla ice-cream (No. 1271).

—Put in a vessel half a pound of powdered sugar with six egg yolks, then mix well with the spatula for ten minutes; add a pint of boiling milk, stir for two minutes longer, and pour the whole into a copper basin. Place it on a hot stove, and heat it thoroughly, stirring continually, but not letting it boil; remove, lay it on the table, and mix in immediately one pint of sweet cream; then leave it to cool for thirty minutes. Have six ripe, fine, sound peaches, wipe them nicely, cut them in two, remove the stones, then mash them into the cream, mixing thoroughly for three minutes; strain through a fine sieve into a freezer, pressing the peaches through with a wooden spoon, then proceed to freeze, and serve precisely the same as for the vanilla ice-cream (No. 1271).

—Prepare and proceed exactly the same as for the peach ice-cream (No. 1276), using four peeled, sound, and ripe bananas instead of the peaches, and finishing exactly the same as for the other.

—Put half a pound of powdered sugar into a basin; grate in the rind of two fine lemons, add four egg whites, and mix well with a wire whip for two minutes, then add a pint of cold milk, stirring again for one minute. Place the basin on the hot stove, stir briskly with the whip, and take it off when coming to a boil, lay it on the table, and pour in a pint of sweet cream, mixing well for two minutes. Let it get cool during half an hour, then strain through a fine sieve into a freezer, and finish precisely the same as for vanilla ice-cream (No. 1271).

—Put in a vessel half a pound of powdered sugar, with one quart of cold water; grate in the rind of a large lemon, or of two small ones, squeezing in the juice of three good-sized ones, or of four if small, and with the spatula beat well together for five minutes. Have a syrup-weigher, place it in the centre of the preparation, and if it be twenty-one degrees it is correct, if not, add a little more powdered sugar; remove the weigher, mix a little more, and then strain through a sieve into the freezer, putting on the cover, and proceed to freeze it precisely the same as for vanilla ice-cream (No. 1271), serving it the same.

—Put into a vessel one quart of cold water, half a pound of powdered sugar, and grate in the rind of two fine, ripe, medium-sized, red oranges, adding their juice besides, the juice of three medium-sized, sound lemons, then finish the same as for lemon water-ice (No. 1279).

—Place in a vessel half a pound of powdered sugar, squeeze in the juice of three sound lemons, add a pint of nicely picked and cleaned raspberries, then with the spatula beat briskly for five minutes; add a quart of cold water, mixing again for one minute, and proceed to finish and serve the same as for lemon water-ice (No. 1279).

—Procure one pound of sound, solid, sour cherries; put them in a vessel, after picking off the stems nicely, with half a pound of powdered sugar, and squeeze in the juice of three fine lemons. Mix well with the spatula for five minutes, then add a quart of cold water, stirring the mixture for two minutes longer, and strain through a fine sieve into the ice-cream freezer, pressing the cherries down with a wooden spoon. Proceed to freeze, and serve exactly the same as for the vanilla ice-cream (No. 1271).

—Cut a small-sized, ripe pineapple in two; put one half away for further use, paring and peeling the other half neatly, then cut it into small pieces; place them in a mortar, and pound them thoroughly to a pulp; ten minutes will suffice for this. Add half a pound of powdered sugar, and pound again for five minutes; transfer the whole into a vessel, squeeze in the juice of three sound lemons, then pour in a quart of cold water, and mix well with the spatula for two minutes. Strain through a fine sieve into the freezer, adding two egg whites, beaten to a stiff froth, then beat well for one minute more. Cover with the lid, and finish it the same as the vanilla ice-cream (No. 1271).

—Procure eight medium-sized, fine, ripe peaches; wipe them neatly, cut in two, remove the stones, then mash them in a vessel with half a pound of powdered sugar; squeeze in the juice of three fine lemons, mix well with the spatula for two minutes, and pour in a quart of cold water, mixing for two minutes more. Strain through a fine sieve into the freezer, cover, and proceed to freeze the cream as for vanilla ice-cream (No. 1271), serving it the same.

—Have twelve good-sized, fine, sound apricots; wipe them neatly, cut them in two, remove the stones, and put them in a vessel with half a pound of powdered sugar, mashing them thoroughly. Have two ounces of bitter almonds, peel, and pound without drying them; add one gill of cold water and one ounce of powdered sugar, pounding the whole together. Arrange a napkin over the vessel containing the apricot preparation; pour over it the contents of the mortar, pressing the juice through the napkin into the vessel, and mix well together for two minutes with the spatula. Squeeze in the juice of three sound lemons; add a pint and a half of cold water, mix again for two minutes, then strain through a fine sieve into the freezer. Put on the cover, and proceed to finish exactly the same as for the vanilla ice-cream (No. 1271).

—Put six egg yolks in a copper basin, with two ounces of powdered sugar, half a gill of maraschino, and a quarter of a gill of Swiss kirsch. Then with a pastry-whip beat well together for two minutes. Place the basin on a hot stove, and stir briskly with the whip for five minutes. Remove it from the fire, and immediately put the basin into a vessel containing ice-water, and stir continually for two minutes more. Add a pint and a half of whipped cream à la vanille (No. 1254), and mix well with the rest for three minutes. Then cover the basin with a napkin, and let repose for ten minutes. Have six paper cases, fourinches long, two inches wide, and one and a half inches high, and fill equally with the above preparation. Have ready a square biscuit-glacé box, ten inches high by six inches square, and having inside a loose, two-tier frame. Place this box in an ice-cream tub, filling it with broken ice mixed with rock-salt. Wipe the cover neatly, and after lifting it up, remove the frame and place three biscuits on each tier; return the frame to the box, put the cover on, and let freeze for one and a half hours. Have a cold dessert-dish covered with a folded napkin; uncover the box, lift up the frame, and dress the biscuits nicely on the dish, sending them to the table at once.

—Prepare and proceed exactly the same as for biscuits glacés (No. 1286), only placing the preparation into six round, fancy paper cases, instead of square ones. When filled, sift evenly over the surfaces two ounces of finely powdered macaroons (No. 1210); lay them on the tiers of the frame, and freeze them, serving them precisely as the biscuits glacés.

—Have a biscuit-glacé preparation exactly the same as forNo. 1286; cut ten biscuits à la cuillère (No. 1231) into dice-shaped pieces, and add them to the preparation. Then, with a wooden spoon, mix lightly for two minutes. With this fill a three-pint, melon-shaped form, and place the cover on. Have a pail, with broken ice in the bottom; lay the form on it, and fill the pail with more broken ice and rock-salt, and let it freeze thoroughly for two hours. Have ready a vessel with warm water; take out the mold from the pail, plunge it into the warm water, to wash away the ice and salt; then remove it immediately. Unmold it onto a dessert-dish with a fancy paper, and serve.

—Have ready three ounces of Malaga raisins, prepared as forNo. 1081; place them in a stone jar with half a pint of good old sherry, adding three ounces of candied cherries cut into quarters, one ounce of finely chopped candied citron, and two ounces of candied apricots, also cut into small pieces; then with the spatula mix gently together for one and a half minutes. Cover the jar, and let infuse for fully twelve hours. Prepare a chocolate ice-cream, as forNo. 1272, and just before removing it from the freezer add the above fruit preparation, mixing well with the spatula for fully two minutes. Put on the cover, and let freeze again for five minutes longer. Take a three-pint melon-form, and with a spoon fill it with the pudding preparation; cover it well, and put it in a pail containing broken ice and rock-salt at the bottom; then fill up the pail with more ice and salt, allowing it to freeze for fully two hours. In the meanwhile prepare the following sauce: put in a saucepan two egg yolks with one ounce of powdered sugar; place it on a slow stove, and with a pastry-whip stir briskly, adding gradually one gill of old English brandy. Heat it well, but it must not boil. Then take from the fire, set the pan on a table, and continue stirring for twelve minutes. Add a pint of well-whipped crême à la vanille (No. 1254), mixing the whole well together with the whip for two minutes, and pour the sauce into a china bowl, placing it in the ice-box. Have a vesselready containing warm water; lift the mold from the pail, plunge it into the water to remove the ice and salt adhering; then lift it up, unmold the pudding immediately, and place it on a dessert-dish, with a fancy paper cover. Beat well the sauce; transfer it to a silver sauce-bowl, and send it to the table with the plum pudding, serving it separately.

—Take six ounces of macaroons (No. 1210); put them into a tin pan, and place it in a moderate oven to dry for ten minutes. Remove, and lay them on a table to cool off for twenty minutes, then put them in a mortar, pound thoroughly, and sift them over a sheet of paper. Have ready a vanilla ice-cream as forNo. 1271, and just before serving add to it the sifted macaroons, and with the spatula mix thoroughly for five minutes, and with this fill a three-pint brick-mold, covering it tightly. Have ready a pail with broken ice and rock-salt at the bottom, lay the mold over, and fill up the pail with more ice and salt. Let it freeze for two hours, and when ready to serve, have ready a vessel with warm water, take up the mold, bathe it in the water, and wash off all the salt and ice that adhere, then unmold the ice-cream onto a dessert-dish with a fancy paper over, and send to the table immediately.

—Prepare half the quantity of vanilla ice-cream as forNo. 1271; when frozen, let it rest, and prepare also half the quantity of biscuit-glacé preparation (No. 1286), and when ready cover the basin, and let rest also. Have half a pound of marrons glacés (candied chestnuts); break them into pieces onto a plate; take a three-pint melon-form, arrange the vanilla ice-cream all around it, dividing it evenly, and filling up with alternate layers of the biscuit preparation and the marrons glacés; cover the mold tightly, and place it in a pail with broken ice mixed with rock-salt at the bottom, also filling the pail with more ice and salt, then let freeze for fully two hours. Two minutes before serving, bathe the mold in warm water to remove the ice and salt that adhere, unmold, and send to the table immediately with a sauce-bowl full of the following sauce: add to half a pint of whipped cream à la vanille (No. 1254) one gill of strawberry juice, and half a gill, or two ounces, of yellow chartreuse; beat well together with the whip for two minutes, then pour it into the sauce-bowl.

—Prepare a pint of vanilla ice-cream as forNo. 1271; a pint of pistache ice-cream (No. 1275), and a pint of raspberry water-ice (No. 1281). Take a long brick-form holding three pints, put at the bottom of this the raspberry water-ice, arrange the vanilla ice-cream on top, and fill up with the pistache, then cover tightly. Take a pail with broken ice mixed with rock-salt at the bottom, lay the form over, and fill up the pail with more ice and salt, and let freeze for two hours. Plunge the form in warm water to wash off the ice and salt, and unmold the ice-cream onto a piece of paper laid on the table. Dip a long knife in warm water, cut the brick lengthwise through the centre, then each piece into three, so that the Napolitaine will be divided into six equal-sized square pieces, each one having the three kinds of cream. Dress on a cold dessert-dish with a fancy paper over, and serve.

—Prepare a pint of vanilla ice-cream as forNo. 1271, half a pint of strawberry ice-cream (No. 1274), and half a pint of lemon water-ice (No. 1279); let them remain in the freezers. Put four ounces of candied cherries onto a plate, cut them in halves, and add two candied apricots cut into small pieces. Take six tutti-frutti molds, open one of them, and lay on the cover a spoonful of strawberry ice-cream, with a spoonful of the lemon water-ice, one beside the other, press the sixth part of the candied fruits onto the ice-cream in the cover of the mold, filling the bottom with vanilla ice-cream, and close together firmly. Lay it immediately into a pail with broken ice and rock-salt at the bottom, cover the mold slightly with more ice and salt, then proceed to prepare the other five molds exactly the same. When they are all in the pail and covered as the first one, fill it up entirely with broken ice and salt, and let it freeze for one hour. Have a vessel containing warm water ready at hand, and prepare six small dessert-plates with a small fancy paper on each, lift up the molds, one after the other, wash them off quickly with the warm water, and unmold the tutti-fruttis onto the cold plates, and serve.

—Put together into a saucepan eight egg yolks, half a pound of powdered sugar, a piece of vanilla-bean one inch long and split in two, also a pint of sweet cream, and six ounces of finely grated cocoa. Mix well with the spatula for two minutes, then place the pan on the hot stove, and stir constantly while heating, but under no circumstances must it boil. Remove it from the fire, and lay the pan in a cool place on the table for thirty minutes. Put an ice-cream freezer into a tub, fill it all round with broken ice mixed with rock-salt, remove the cover, and after wiping the freezer well, strain the preparation through a sieve into it, cover it again, and with the hands turn the handle of the cover for five minutes in opposite directions. Lift up the cover, and with the spatula detach the preparation that adheres to the sides, readjust the cover, and turn again the handle, beginning in an opposite direction from the first time; after five minutes, detach from the sides as before, and repeat for the third time the turning process. Finally lift off the cover, and detach the cream from all around, and it will now be thoroughly firm, so cover it again, and let it rest. Beat up to a froth one gill of sweet cream as forNo. 1254; take a glass or silver stand, and with an ice-cream spoon remove the cream from the freezer, spoonful by spoonful, and dress it in the centre of the bowl, keeping it as high as possible, and giving it a pretty, pyramid shape. Fill a paper cornet with the whipped cream, cut off the point, and decorate artistically the top and sides of the plombière. Chop up very fine two ounces of pistache, and sprinkle them evenly over the surface, then send to the table.

—Place six ounces of powdered sugar in a saucepan with six egg yolks and a pint of sweet cream, and mix well together for two minutes; set the saucepan on the hot stove, then stir gently and continually from the bottom, using a spatula, until nearly coming to a boil; as this is difficult to determine on account of thebriskness of the fire, the best way to tell when it is sufficiently done is to lift up the spatula and see whether the cream adheres thickly to it, if so, remove the saucepan from the fire and lay it on the table, add immediately to it four ounces of freshly roasted Mocha coffee in beans, then stir again well for one minute more. Remove the spatula, cover the saucepan with a napkin, put the lid on, and let infuse for one hour. Beat up one pint of fresh sweet cream as forNo. 1254, and let rest until needed. Place an ice-cream freezer in a tub, fill it up all round with broken ice mixed with rock-salt, wipe the cover nicely, and then remove it; strain the infused preparation through a fine sieve into the freezer, put on the cover, then take hold of the handle, and turn the freezer briskly in opposite directions for five minutes; remove the cover, and with the spatula detach all the cream that adheres to the sides and bottom, recover, and turn sharply as before; remove the cover, detach the cream from the sides and bottom, replace the cover, and begin turning again in opposite directions for five minutes longer. The cream should now be thoroughly frozen. Drop the whipped cream into the freezer, very little at a time, meanwhile mixing it gently with the spatula, which should take four minutes to accomplish it; then have ready a three-pint, channeled, ice-cream mold, and with an ice-cream spoon fill the mold with the preparation, and put on the lid. Place some broken ice with rock-salt at the bottom of a pail, lay the mold over, and fill up the pail with more ice and salt, then let freeze for fully one hour. Afterward remove the mold, dip it into lukewarm water, wipe away the ice and salt, and lift it up immediately, take off the cover, and turn the cream onto a cold dessert-dish with a folded napkin, and serve.

—Put one pint of cold milk into a saucepan, adding one pint of cold water and half a saltspoonful of salt, place the pan on the hot stove, and when boiling, throw in four ounces of well-cleaned, raw rice; then with a spatula stir slowly and continually at the bottom while it is cooking for twenty-five minutes, then take the pan from off the fire, lay it on a table, and add immediately four ounces of powdered sugar and one ounce of fresh butter; mix well together with a spatula for two minutes, then transfer it into another vessel, and set it in a cold place for one hour to have it thoroughly cooled off. Whip to a froth one pint of sweet cream as forNo. 1254, cover the basin with a napkin, and let rest for twenty minutes; should there be any milk settled at the bottom, pour it off, and add to the cream two ounces of powdered sugar and one teaspoonful of vanilla flavoring, then with a wire whip beat well together for two minutes longer, and remove the whip. Take the rice from the vessel, drop it gradually into the whipped cream, then mix the whole together slowly and carefully for three minutes. Line a two-quart, tin melon-form with three ounces of peach marmalade (No. 1331), fill the mold with the preparation, put on the cover, and after placing a little broken ice at the bottom of a pail, lay in the mold, and cover it entirely with broken ice (no salt is necessary for this), and let freeze for one hour. Have a vessel with two quarts of lukewarm water; lift upthe mold from the pail, dip it into the water, wash off the ice, and raise it up immediately; remove the cover, turn the preparation onto a cold dessert-dish, and send to the table.

—Have six fine, solid oranges, and with a pastry-tube, one and a quarter of an inch in diameter, cut off the tops of the oranges, then with a small knife remove the covers gently, laying them aside until later. With either a Parisian-potato cutter or a spoon, empty the insides of the oranges, being careful to avoid breaking any of the skin, for should that occur, they will be useless; the interiors can be used for some other purpose. Arrange the oranges, with their covers on, in a square biscuit-glacé box as forNo. 1286; place the box in a tub, filling it with broken ice mixed with rock-salt, and let freeze for one hour. Prepare a champagne punch as forNo. 1307, and with it fill the interior of the oranges, put on the covers, and with different colored ribbons tie each one, beginning at the top; when at the bottom, turn the ribbon and bring it back to the top in an opposite direction, then make a graceful bow on top of the covers. Lay them again in the box, and let them freeze for one hour longer, then dress them on a dessert-dish with a folded napkin, and serve.

—Prepare a pint of lemon ice-cream as forNo. 1278, also a pint of coffee ice-cream (No. 1273), leaving them in their freezers. Take two ounces of candied cherries, cut in halves, two ounces of candied apricots, cut in slices, one ounce of candied angelica, cut into very small, lozenge-shaped pieces, two ounces of candied pineapple, cut into very thin slices, and twelve French walnuts, shelled and divided. Have a three-pint, square ice-cream mold, place half the lemon ice-cream at the bottom, arrange a third part of the fruits nicely over, dividing them equally, then cover with half of the coffee ice-cream, and with a spoon press it down well. Lay half the remaining fruits on top of this, and spread over the rest of the lemon ice-cream, then the last of the fruits, and fill up the mold with the balance of the coffee ice-cream. Close very firmly, and lay it into a pail with broken ice mixed with rock-salt at the bottom, and filling it with the same, then let freeze for two hours. Two minutes before serving prepare a vessel with warm water, lift up the mold, and wash off the ice and salt, then unmold the macédoine immediately on a cold dessert-dish with a fancy paper over, and send it to the table.


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