Dull Violet.—Use in the dye-bath 1½ lb. Chicago blue 4 R, 14 oz. Erika B N, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour.
Red Lilac.—Dye with 6 oz. Oxydiamine violet G, 2 oz. Oxydiamine violet B, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour.
Violet.—Dye with 3 oz. Diamine violet N, 2 oz. diamine blue 3 R, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.
Fawn Drab.—Prepare a dye-bath with 1 lb. Cachou de laval, ¼ oz. Benzo purpurine B. Enter the cotton into this bath in the cold and heat to the boil, taking about one hour for the operation, then add 4 lb. common salt and boil for three-quarters of an hour longer; lift, wash and dry.
Pale Olive Brown.—The dye-bath is made with 1 lb. Diamine bronze G, 1 oz. Cotton brown N, 3 oz. Diamine gold, 5 lb. soda, 15 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and dry.
Red Brown.—Prepare a dye-bath with 1¾ lb. Cotton yellow, 4 lb. Hessian brown 2 B N, 2 lb. Diamine black R O, 1 lb. soda, 2 lb. salt. Enter the goods at 180° F., then raise to the boil and work to the shade; lift, wash and dry.
Brown Drab.—Prepare a dye-bath with ¼ lb. Cotton brown N, ¾ oz. Diamine yellow N, ¾ oz. Diamine black B O, 15 lb. phosphate of soda, 3 lb. soap. Work at the boil for one hour.
Gold Brown.—Prepare the dye-bath with 16¼ oz. Toluylene orange G, 9½ oz. Toluylene orange R, 4¾ oz. azo mauve, 2½ lb. soap, 5 lb. soda. Dye at the boil for one hour.
Chestnut Brown.—Prepare a dye-bath with 10 lb. common salt, 2 lb. Benzo brown G, ½ lb. Benzo azurine G, ½ lb. Chrysophenine. Enter the goods at 150° F., raise to the boil and dye boiling for one hour.
Purple Brown.—Prepare a dye-bath with 10 lb. common salt, 2 lb. Benzo brown N B, 1 lb. Azo violet. Enter thecotton at 150° F., raise to the boil and dye boiling for an hour; lift, wash and dry.
Brown.—Prepare a dye-bath with 5 lb. soda, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 12 oz. Chrysamine, 1 oz. Benzo purpurine, 6¼ oz. Benzo azurine. Dye at the boil for one hour, rinse and dry. The brown thus got is fast to washing.
Dark Chestnut Brown.—Prepare a dye-bath with 10 lb. salt, 3 lb. Benzo brown N B X, raise to 150° F., enter goods, heat to boil, and work for one hour; lift, rinse and dry.
Dark Brown.—Prepare a dye-bath with 20 oz. Glauber's salt per gallon of water used, 2½ lb. soap, 1½ lb. Diamine black R O, 2 lb. Cotton brown N. Enter the yarn at 180° F., give three turns, raise temperature to boil, and work to shade; lift, rinse and wash.
Gold Brown.—Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Titan gold, 50 lb. salt. Work at the boil for thirty minutes, then lift, wash and dry. The dye-bath is not exhausted, only about 3 lb. of the colour being taken up by the cotton. It may, therefore, be kept for further lots, adding 3 lb. more colour and about 20 lb. more salt for each batch of cotton, or if it is not desired to keep the bath, add less colour to start with, and towards the end of the operation add more salt.
Brown.—Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Paramine brown G, 20 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. soda. Dye at the boil for one hour.
Light Brown.—Prepare the dye-bath with 3 lb. Diamine catechine G, 3 lb. soda, 15 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour.
Dark Brown.—Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Diamine catechine B, 3 lb. soda, 15 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour.
Dark Drab.—Prepare the dye-bath with 1 lb. Titan brown Y, 3 oz. Columbia green, 32¾ oz. Diamine bronze, 17 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and dry.
Pale Brown.—The dye-bath is made with 2 lb. Mikado orange 4 R, 3 oz. Benzo fast grey, 30 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, ash and dry.
Gold Brown.—Make a dye-bath with 1 lb. Titan gold, 50 lb. common salt. Enter at the boil, work for an hour, then lift, wash and dry. Keep the bath for another lot of goods; it will only require the addition of about 14 oz. of colour and 10 lb. salt.
Buff Brown.—Make the dye-bath with ¾ lb. Titan gold, ¼ lb. Titan brown R, 5 oz. Titan blue 3 B, 40 lb. common salt. Work at the boil to shade, then lift, wash and dry.
Deep Chestnut Brown.—Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Titan brown R, 1½ lb. Titan blue R, 25 lb. common salt. Work at the boil for an hour, then lift, wash and dry.
Light Seal Brown.—Make the dye-bath with 10 lb. salt, 2 lb. soda, 14 oz. Oxyphenine, ¾ lb. Atlas red R, 6 oz. Diamine blue B X. Work at the boil to shade, then lift, wash and dry.
Orange Brown.—Make a dye-bath with 10 lb. salt, 2 lb soda, 14 oz. Oxyphenine, 1 lb. Atlas red R, 1 oz. Diamine blue B X. Work at the boil to shade, then lift, wash and dry.
Pale Nut Brown.—Use in the dye-bath 4½ oz. Diamine catechine G, 1 oz. Diamine brown M, 1 oz. Diamine catechine B, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour.
Walnut Brown.—Dye with 1 lb. Diamine brown M, 3 oz. Diamine orange G, 2 oz. Diamine black H W, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour.
Black Brown.—Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Diamine brown M, ¾ lb. Diamine blue black R, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil.
Reddish Brown.—Dye with 2 lb. Dianil brown R, 5 lb. salt and 5 lb. phosphate of soda at the boil for one hour.
Chocolate Brown.—Dye with 2 lb. Dianil brown T, 5 lb. phosphate of soda and 5 lb. salt at the boil for one hour.
Dark Brown.—Dye with 2 lb. Dianil dark brown, 5 lb. salt and 5 lb. phosphate of soda at the boil for one hour.
Light Brown.—Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Diamine catechine G, 3 lb. soda and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
Brown.—Dye with 2¼ lb. Cotton brown N, 4 oz. Diamine black H W, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour.
Dark Walnut Brown.—Make the dye-bath with 3¼ lb. Diamine brown M, 6 oz. Diamine catechine B, 6 oz. Diamine red 5 B, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; work at the boil.
Dark Chestnut Brown.—Dye with 2½ lb. Dianil brown R, 1 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt at the boil.
Dark Brown.—Dye with 2 lb. Dianil brown 3 G O, 2 lb. Dianil brown B D, 1 lb. Dianil red 4 B, 3 lb. soda and 25 lb. salt at the boil for one hour.
Brown.—Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Mikado brown M and 25 lb. salt; work the cotton in this at the boil for one hour.
Nut Brown.—Use in the dye-bath 2½ lb. Benzo brown G and 15 lb. salt, working at the boil.
Dark Brown.—Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Benzo brown N B and 15 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil.
Dark Brown.—Make the dye-bath with 4 lb. Diphenyl brown B N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 4 lb. soap, working at the boil to shade.
Black Brown.—Use in the dye-bath 2½ lb. Dianil brown 3 G O, 1½ lb. Dianil brown G, ¾ lb. Dianil dark blue R, 3 lb. soda and 25 lb. salt.
Dark Brown.—Dye with 1½ lb. Zambesi black D, 1¼ lb. Brilliant orange G, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil to shade.
Gold Brown.—Dye with 2 lb. Curcumine S, 1 lb. Columbia orange R, 5 oz. Columbia black F B, 3 lb. soda and 15 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil.
Dark Chestnut.—Dye at the boil with 2 lb. Columbia Orange R, 8 oz. Columbia black F B, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.
Sage Brown.—Dye with 1 lb. Zambesi black D, 1 lb. Curcumine S, ¾ lb. Diamine orange G D, 3 lb. soda and 30 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil.
Deep Brown.—Dye 3½ lb. Diamine brown M, ¾ lb. Oxydiamine orange G, ¾ lb. Diamine black H W, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil.
Chestnut.—Dye with 2½ lb. Diamine brown G, ¾ lb. Oxydiamine orange R, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.
Pale Walnut Brown.—Dye with 3½ lb. Diamine brown M, ¾ lb. Oxydiamine orange G, 1½ oz. Diamine black B H, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.
Various other browns may be obtained by combining the various direct browns together or with other direct dyes. The use of a yellow or orange will brighten them; that of a red will redden the shade; the addition of a dark blue or a black will darken the shade considerably. It may be useful to remember that a combination of red, orange and blue or black produces a brown, and by using various proportions a great range of shades can be dyed.
Black.—Prepare a dye-bath with 6 lb. Diamine black R O, 2 oz. Thioflavine S, 2 lb. soap, 10 lb. salt. Enter the cotton at the boil and dye for one hour; lift, wash and dry.
Black.—Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Direct deep black E extra, and ½ to 1½ oz. common salt per gallon of water. Dye at the boil for one hour.
Deep Black.—Prepare the dye-bath with 5½ lb. Diamine deep black R B, 2 lb. soda, 20 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour; lift, wash and dry.
Black.—Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Direct triamine black G X, 15 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye for one hour at theboil; lift, rinse and dry. In working for from two to three hours the dye-bath will exhaust completely.
Black.—Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Oxydiamine black A, 20 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. soda. Dye at the boil for one hour.
Black.—Prepare the dye-bath with 6 lb. Pluto black B. Dye at the boil for one hour with the addition of ¾ to 1¼ oz. Glauber's salt, ½ to ¾ oz. soda ash per gallon of liquor. To develop the shade it is necessary to dye in a boiling liquor.
Black.—Use 2½ lb. Diamine jet black Cr, 2½ lb. Diamine jet black R B, 2 lb. soda, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour.
Black.—Use 6 lb. Oxydiamine black N R, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour.
Black.—Use 6 lb. Columbia Black F B B, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil to shade.
Besides the blacks given in the above recipes, there are other brands which are used in the same way, and vary slightly in the shade of black they give.
All the direct blacks require working in strong baths to give anything like black shades; they all have, more or less, a bluish tone, which can be changed to a jetter shade by the addition of a yellow or green dye in small proportions, which has been done in one of the recipes given above.
By coupling, chroming or developing, the direct blacks can be made to give full, deep and fast blacks, and examples of their use in this manner will be found in following sections.
By using all the direct blacks in proportions varying from ¼ to 1 per cent. of dye-stuff to the weight of the cotton they give greys of various tints and depths; a few examples of such greys will now be given.
Blue Grey.—Prepare the dye-bath with ½ lb. Oxydiamine black A, 1 lb. soda, 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour.
Bright Grey.—Prepare a dye-bath with 4½ oz. Azo mauve A M, 1½ oz. Direct yellow G, 3 lb. soda, 15 lb. common salt.
Silver Grey.—Prepare the dye-bath with ½ oz. Neutral grey G, 10 lb. sulphate of soda. Work at the boil to shade, then lift, wash and dry.
Slate.—Dye in a bath with ½ lb. Diamine black B H, 3 oz. Diamine bronze G, 15 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil for three-quarters of an hour.
Bronze Grey.—Prepare a dye-bath with ½ lb. Diamine bronze G, 15 lb. Glauber's salt, 3 lb. soap. Enter at about 160° F., raise to boil and work for one hour; lift, wash and dry.
Dark Slate.—Prepare a dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 1½ lb. soap, 1 lb. Diamine black R O, 2 lb. Cotton brown N. Heat to about 150° F. Enter the goods, work for a short time, then raise to the boil and work for one hour; lift, wash and dry.
Green Grey.—Prepare a dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 1 lb. Diamine black R O, ¾ oz. Thioflavine S. Enter at from 150° Tw. to 180° F., raise to boil and dye for one hour; wash and dry.
Light Slate.—Prepare a dye-bath containing 2¼ lb. soap, 15 lb. Glauber's salt, 6 oz. Diamine black R O, ½ oz. thioflavine S. Enter cotton at 140° F., work a little, then heat to boil and dye to shade; lift, wash and dry.
Grey.—Prepare the dye-bath with ½ lb. Diamine grey G, ½ oz. Diamine scarlet B, 1 lb. soda, 1 lb. soap, 5 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye for one hour at the boil.
Light Grey.—Prepare the dye-bath with 1 lb. Diamine grey G, 1 lb. soda, 1 lb. soap, 5 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye for one hour at the boil; lift, rinse and dry.
It may be convenient here to deal with the question of the fastness of the direct dyes to such influences as light, air,acids, alkalies, washing and soaping, that have a very material influence on the use of these dyes in dyeing various fabrics. This matter can only be dealt with here in very general terms, for space is limited and the dyes are too numerous for detailed mention. They vary very greatly in degrees of fastness, some are absolutely fast to all influences; the blacks are among the fastest, generally these resist washing and soaping, stand acids well and are fast to alkalies, light however affects them more or less, though they cannot be reckoned fugitive colours. The few direct greens known are good colours; they stand washing, soaping and light well, but they are affected by acids and alkalies. The blues vary very much, generally they stand soaping and have a fair degree of fastness to light, acids have but little action, alkalies tend to redden the shade, while heat also affects them. The direct browns are very variable; they are in general not fast to light; they stand washing and soaping and resist alkalies, but are altered by acids slightly. The yellows rank among the fastest of colours to light and washing and soaping; acids have but little effect; they are reddened by alkalies. Among the reds there is great variation in properties, generally they are not fast to light, standing washing and soaping well and resisting weak alkalies; some of them, such as the Benzo purpurines and Congo reds are very sensitive to acids, being turned blue with very weak acids, but on washing or soaping the original colour comes back; others, like the Titan reds, Diamine reds and Delta purpurines are not so sensitive, but these are affected by moderately strong acids; there are one or two reds like Benzo fast scarlet 4 B S and Purpuramine D H, which are fast to acids. The depth of shade which is dyed has some considerable influence on the degree of fastness, the deeper shades of a colour are always faster than the paler shades, particularly as regards light, a difference of ½ per cent, of dye-stuff has been known to make a veryappreciable degree of difference as regards the fastness of a colour to light.
In dyeing cotton with all the direct dyes, it is found that the whole of the dye-stuff is not removed from the dye-bath, how much is taken up by the cotton, and the depth of the shade which is dyed upon the cotton chiefly depends upon three factors:—
(1) Volume of water used. (2) Quantity of saline salts used. (3) Degree of affinity of the dye-stuff for the fibre.
There may also be some minor factors such as temperature at which the dyeing is carried on, the character and condition of the fabrics being dyed, etc.
The volume of water used in making the dye-bath has a very great influence upon the amount of dye taken up by the cotton, the greater the volume of water the less dye is absorbed and the paler the colour which is produced upon the fibre. It is therefore important to use as little water as possible in making up the dye-bath, indeed, for anything like good results to be obtained with some dyes, especially those of the sulphur series like Vidal black, Immedial blacks, Katigen browns, Cross-dye blacks, Amidazol blacks, etc., it is necessary to employ what is called a short bath, that is making it as strong as possible. The proportion of water with such dyes should not exceed fifteen times the weight of the cotton being dyed, that is, for every pound of cotton, 1½ gallons of water can be allowed. This will suit the dyeing of yarns and loose fabrics like knitted stockings and hosiery goods very well. In the case of dyeing piece goods on a jigger or continuous dyeing machines even stronger liquors can be used with advantage. With some of the older, direct dyes like Congo red, Benzo azurine, Diamine scarlets, the proportion of water may be increased to twenty times the weight of thecotton. In any case the quantity of water used should not exceed twenty-five times the weight of the cotton.
The second factor, the quantity of saline salts, like Glauber's salt, soda, borax, etc., added in the dyeing, is not without influence, generally the more that is added the more dye there is left in the bath, but here again much depends upon the salt and the colouring matters used. Some salts, more particularly Glauber's salt and common salt, tend to throw some dye-stuffs out of the bath, and so the more there is used of them the deeper the shade produced on the fabric. It is quite impossible, having regard to the scope of this book, to deal with this question in detail. The dyer should ascertain for himself the best salts and the best proportions of these to use with the particular dyes he is using. The recipes given above will give him some ideas on this point.
The third factor, the degree of affinity of the dye for the cotton fibre, has some influence on the depth of shade which can be dyed from any given strength of the dye-bath. There is a very considerable difference among the direct dyes in this respect. There are some which have a fair degree of affinity, while there are others which have but little affinity, and while in the former case there is little dye left in the bath, in the latter case there is a good deal. When dyeing plain shades with single dye-stuffs this is not of much moment, because if the bath be kept for further use, as will be spoken of presently, the bath may be brought up to its original strength by adding a proportionate amount of dye-stuff, but when compound shades are being dyed, using two or more dyes, then this feature has some influence, for they will not be absorbed by the fibre in the same proportion as they were put in the bath, and so when making up the dye-bath for the second lot, and adding the same proportion of dyes, the shade which is produced will not be quite the same, for the first lot of cotton in taking up the dyes in varying quantities has altered their relative proportions, and so the bath for the second lot of cotton will actually contain more of one dye than did the first bath, and the influence of this excess of the one constituent will show itself in the shade ultimately dyed. The more lots of cotton there are dyed in the bath the greater will this influence be. The dyer must by practical experience find out for himself in what direction this feature of the direct dyes exerts its influence on the particular dyes he is working with and make due allowance.
It is found in practice that from one-fourth to one-half of the original weight of dye-stuff is left in the bath, and in order to be as economical as possible a custom has arisen of keeping the bath and using it again for dyeing further lots of cotton. In thus making a continuous use of dye-baths it is important in preparing the baths for the next lot of cotton to add first the requisite quantities of dye-stuffs, how much will depend upon the factors and conditions already detailed, but from one-half to three-fourths of the original quantities are added. Practical experience alone is the guide to be followed.
Having added the dye-stuff, then sufficient water must be added to bring up the volume of the bath to the proper amount, for it will have lost some. The loss of water arises from two sources: first there is the evaporation, which always occurs when dye-baths are heated up, and, second, there is the mechanical loss due to its absorption by the material which is being dyed. When a piece of cotton or other textile fabric is immersed in a dye liquor it absorbs mechanically some of it, and this amount may be roughly put down as about its own weight; thus 100 lb. weight of cotton will take up 10 gallons of liquor and carry that quantity out of the bath. To some extent this may be minimised by a previous wetting out of the cotton, which will then have in it as much liquor as it will take up, and so practically no more will be taken up from thedye-bath. Any loss of volume which may thus occur can be remedied by the addition of water.
The dye-baths containing in solution, in addition to the dye-stuff, salt, or Glauber's salt, or any other added substance, the cotton in taking up the dye liquor will of course take up some of these in proportion to the volume of liquor absorbed. The amount may range from 4 oz. to 1 lb. per gallon of liquor, and if 100 lb. cotton is being dyed and takes up from 10 to 15 gallons of liquor, it is obvious that it must absorb from 3 to 10 lb. of saline matter, and as the salinity of the dye liquor is of some importance in dyeing direct colours, in making up the bath for the next lot of cotton this must be allowed for and suitable additions made. In order to do this properly it is a good plan to rely upon the Twaddell.
The dyer should take the Twaddell of his bath before use and always make up his baths to that strength. This will be found to range from 3° to 12° Tw.
Thus, for instance, a dye-bath made from 120 gallons of water with 20 lb. to 25 lb. common salt or Glauber's salt with the dye-stuffs will stand at 4° Tw., one made with 50 lb. common salt or Glauber's salt at 8° Tw., while one which is made with 80 lb. to 100 lb. salt will stand at 12° to 13° Tw. If the dyer always maintains his liquors at one uniform degree Twaddell he can invariably depend upon getting uniform shades from his dye-baths. This uniform strength is attained by adding more salt or more water as the case may require.
Of course the continuous working of dye-baths cannot go on for ever; sooner or later the baths become thick and dirty, and then they must be thrown away and a new bath started.
(2) DIRECT DYEING FOLLOWED BY FIXATION WITH METALLIC SALTS.
It is an acknowledged principle in dyeing that to produce colours fast to washing, soaping and rubbing, there must be produced on the fibre an insoluble coloured substance. Now as the direct dyes do not essentially produce such insoluble bodies when dyed on the cotton, the colours they form are not always fast to washing and soaping. It has been ascertained, however, that some of the direct dyes,e.g., Benzo azurine, Chicago blue, Catechu browns, Diamine blues, Diamine browns, etc., are capable of uniting with metallic bodies to form insoluble colour lakes, and this combination can take place on the fibre. Fast shades may be dyed with the dye-stuffs named above, and with others of this group, by first dyeing them in the usual way, then passing through a boiling bath containing bichromate of potash or copper sulphate, either together or separately. The two fixing agents here named have been found to be the best, although others, as, for instance, zinc sulphate, chromium fluoride and iron sulphate have been tried. With some dyes there is little or no alteration in shade, but in others there is some change, thus the blues as a rule tend to become greener in tone, and browns also tend to acquire a greener tone and deeper shade. The treated shades thus obtained are notable for considerable fastness to washing, soaping and light. It is to be noted that bichromate of potash exercises both a fixing and an oxidising action on dye-stuffs, hence it is needful to use it with some degree of caution and not in too great an amount, otherwise with some dyes there is a risk of over-oxidation, and in consequence poor shades will be developed. The following recipes will serve to show what dyes may thus be used, and the colours that can be obtained with them.
Dark Red.—Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Diamine fast red F, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, work at the boil for one hour, then lift, rinse and pass into a boiling bath containing 3 lb. fluoride of chromium for ten to fifteen minutes, then lift, rinse and dry. By using 1 lb. of the dye-stuff in the same way a light red shade is got.
Orange.—Dye at the boil for one hour with 1 lb. Chrysamine G, 3 lb. soap and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then rinse and fix in a fresh boiling bath with 1 lb. bichromate of potash, 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Yellow.—Dye with 3½ lb. Diamine yellow N, 3 lb. soap and 15 lb. phosphate of soda, then fix with 4 lb. fluoride of chromium.
Gold Yellow.—Prepare the dye-bath with 3 lb. Benzo chrome brown 5 G, 1 lb. soda ash, 12 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour and rinse. This gives an orange brown. To get the yellow shade, afterwards chrome with 3 lb. bichromate of potash, 3 lb. sulphate of copper, 1 lb. acetic acid, in a fresh bath. Enter at about 130° F., bring to the boil, and boil for half an hour.
Pale Leaf Green.—Dye with 3 lb. Dianil yellow 3 G, 1 lb. Dianil yellow R, 1 lb. Dianil blue G, and 20 lb. salt, then fix with 3 lb. copper sulphate and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Leaf Green.—Dye with 3 lb. Dianil yellow 3 G, 3 lb. Dianil blue G, and 20 lb. salt, fixing with 4 lb. copper sulphate and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Green.—Dye with 2 lb. Dianil yellow R, 1½ lb. Dianil dark blue R, 1 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt, fixing with 3 lb. copper sulphate.
Pale Olive Green.—Dye with 2¾ lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 1¼ lb. Diamine blue R W, ¾ lb. Diamine blue R W, ¾ lb. Diamine catechine G; fix with 4 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Russia Green.—Dye with 2½ lb. Diamine blue R W, 10 oz.Diamine dark blue B, 2½ lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 4 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Blue Green.—Dye with 1¾ lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 6 oz. Diamine fast yellow B, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 2 lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic acid.
Bronze Green.—Use in the bath at the boil 4 lb. Diamine bronze G, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then fix with 4 lb. fluoride of chromium.
Pea Green.—Dye in a boiling bath with ½ lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 2¼ lb. Diamine fast yellow A, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then fix in a fresh bath with 2 lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic acid.
Leaf Green.—Dye at the boil for one hour in a bath containing 2¾ lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 1¾ lb. Diamine blue R W, 7 oz. Diamine catechine B, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, then fix in a new bath with 4 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Light Green.—Prepare the dye-bath with 7¼ oz. Diamine blue R W, 5½ oz. Diamine orange B, 2 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, work at the boil for one hour, then treat in a fresh bath with 3 lb. sulphate of copper.
Olive Green.—Dye with 2¼ lb. Chicago blue R W, 15 oz. Chrysamine G, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 1 lb. bichromate of potash, 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Pea Green.—Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Chrysophenine G, 1 lb. Chicago blue 6 B, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour, then fix in a fresh boiling bath with 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Green.—Dye with 2¾ lb. Chicago blue 6 B, 5 oz. Chrysamine G, 2 lb. soap and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 1 lb. bichromate of potash, 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Green.—Dye with 1½ lb. Diamine green B, 1½ oz. Diamine bronze G, 1 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour, then lift, rinse and fix in a fresh boiling bath with 3 lb. fluoride of chromium for one to fifteen minutes.
Dark Bronze.—Use in the dye-bath 2½ lb. Diamine bronze G, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour, then lift, rinse and fix with 3 lb. fluoride of chromium as above.
Dark Blue.—Prepare the dye-bath with 3 lb. Benzo blue R W, 10 lb. Glauber's salt; dye for one hour at the boil, then treat in fresh bath with 1 lb. sulphate of copper at the boil for half an hour.
Blue.—Dye with 1¾ lb. Diamine brilliant blue G, 1¼ lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix in a bath with 4 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Light Navy.—Dye with 1 lb. Diamine blue 3 R, 2¼ lb. Diamine blue R W, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 4 lb. sulphate of copper and 20 lb. acetic acid.
Bright Navy.—Dye with 4 lb. Diamine brilliant blue G, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 4 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Blue.—Dye with 3 lb. Chicago blue R W, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Blue.—- Dye with 3 lb. Chicago blue R W, 1½ lb. Zambesi black F, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Deep Slate Blue.—Dye with 1¼ lb. Zambesi black F, 1¼ lb. Chicago blue B, 6 oz. Columbia yellow, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Light Blue.—Prepare the dye-bath with 2 oz. Diaminesky blue F F, ¾ oz. Diamine fast yellow A, ½ lb. soda, 2 lb. soap and 5 lb. Glauber's salt; dye for one hour at the boil, then treat in a fresh bath with 1½ lb. sulphate of copper for half an hour.
Dark Blue.—Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Benzo chrome black blue B, 15 lb. Glauber's salt and 3 lb. soda. Work at the boil for one hour, then chrome in a fresh bath with 1 lb. bichromate of potash, 1 lb. sulphate of copper and ½ lb. sulphuric acid.
Dark Blue.—Dye with 2½ lb. Diamineral blue R, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 2 lb. sulphate of copper, 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Turquoise Blue.—Dye with 1 lb. Chicago blue 6 B, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and fix with 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Turquoise Blue.—Dye with 3 lb. Chicago blue 4 B, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and fix with 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lbs. acetic acid.
Black Blue.—Dye with 4¼ lb. Diamine dark blue B, 1 lb. Diamine new blue R, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, fixing with 5 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
By mixing together the various Diamine blues a very great range of shades can be produced, from pale sky-blue tints to the deepest of blues.
Bright Blue.—Dye with 2¼ lb. Dianil blue B and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 3 lb. of fluoride of chromium.
Dark Blue.—Dye with 3 lb. Dianil blue B, 1 lb. Dianil dark blue R, 1 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt, fixing with 3 lb. fluoride of chromium.
Red Violet.—Dye with 1 lb. Dianil blue 4 R and 10 lb, salt, fixing with 4 lb. fluoride of chromium.
Dark Plum.—Dye with 3 lb. Dianil blue 4 R and 15 lb. salt, fixing with 4 lb. fluoride of chromium.
Red Violet.—Dye with 1 lb. Diamine blue 3 R, 1 lb. sodaand 10 lb. Glauber's salt, fixing with 1½ lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic acid.
Red Plum.—Use 3¾ lb. Diamine blue 3 R, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, fixing with 5 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Brown.—Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Diamine catechine B, 3 lb. soda and 15 lb. Glauber's salt and dye at the boil for one hour, then treat with 2 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. bichromate of potash.
Brown.—Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Paramine brown C, 20 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. soda and dye at the boil for one hour; treat with 3 lb. copper sulphate.
Light Brown.—Dye at the boil for one hour in a bath containing 5 lb. Diamine catechine G, 3 lb. soda and 15 lb. Glauber's salt, then treat in a fresh bath with 2 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. bichromate of potash.
Dark Chestnut Brown.—Dye for an hour in a boiling bath with 2¼ lb. Diamine catechine G, 1¼ lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; then fix in a fresh boiling bath with 2 lb. sulphate of copper, 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. acetic acid, working for fifteen to twenty minutes, then rinsing and drying.
Brown.—Use 3 lb. Catechu brown G K, 15 lb. Glauber's salt and ½ lb. soap; after dyeing for one hour at the boil treat in a fresh boiling bath with 3 lb. copper sulphate.
Dark Brown.—Dye at the boil for one hour with 3 lb. Catechu brown F K, 15 lb. Glauber's salt and 1 lb. soap, then treat in a fresh boiling bath with 3 lb. copper sulphate.
Brown.—Prepare the dye-bath with 9 oz. Diamine blue R W, 12½ oz. Diamine orange B, 1¾ lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; after working for one hour at the boil treat in a fresh boiling bath with 4 lb. sulphate of copper.
Brown.—Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Benzo chromebrown 2 R, 20 lb. Glauber's salt (crystals) and dye at the boil for one hour; afterwards treat with bichromate of potash and sulphate of copper.
Nut Brown.—Dye in a bath with 4 lb. Benzo chrome brown G and 20 lb. salt, then treat in a fresh bath with 4 lb. bichromate of potash, 4 lb. copper sulphate and 1 lb. acetic acid.
Chestnut Brown.—Dye at the boil for one hour in a bath containing 4 lb. Benzo chrome brown R, and boiling bath with 4 lb. bichromate of potash, 4 lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Olive Brown.—Dye with 4 lb. Diamine bronze G, 1 lb. Diamine orange B, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 5 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Deep Brown.—Use in the Dye-bath 1¾ lb. Diamine brown B, 1¾ lb. Diamine fast yellow B, ½ oz. Diamine black B H, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. The fixing bath contains 2 lb. sulphate of copper, 2 lb. bichromate of potash, and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Brown.—Dye with 2 lb. Diamine brown M, 1 lb. Diamine fast red F, ½ lb. Diamine jet black Cr, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. The fixing bath contains 2 lb. sulphate of copper, 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Black Brown.—Dye with 1¾ lb. Diamine dark blue B, ¾ lb. Diamine orange B, 1¾ lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, fixing with 5 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Light Sage Brown.—Dye with ¾ lb. Diamine brown B, 1½ lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 3 oz. Diamine dark blue B, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, fixing with 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic acid.
Pale Brown.—Use in the dye-bath 1 lb. Dianil brown 3 G O, 4 oz. Dianil brown E, 4 oz. Dianil black N, 1 lb. soda and 20lb. salt, fixing with 1½ lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic acid.
Walnut Brown.—Dye with 2½ lb. Diamine blue 3 R, 1 lb. Diamine brown M, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, then fix with 5 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Pale Fawn Brown.—Dye with 2 lb. Diamine blue 3 R, 1 lb. Diamine brown M, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, then fix with 5 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Pale Fawn Brown.—Dye with ½ lb. Diamine orange B, ¼ lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, fixing with 2 lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic acid.
Sage Brown.—Dye with 9 oz. Diamine blue R W, ¾ lb. Diamine orange B, 1¾ lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. The fixing is done with 4 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Red Chocolate.—Dye with 3 lb. Diamine orange B, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 2 lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Chestnut.—Dye with 2½ lb. Dianil brown 3 G O, 13 oz. Dianil brown R, 13 oz. Dianil brown B D, 1 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt, fixing with 3 lb. copper sulphate and 1 lb. acetic acid.
Brown.—Dye with 2¼ lb. Chrysophenine G, 1¼ lb. Diamine brown G, 1¼ lb. Chicago blue R W, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Nut Brown.—Dye with 3 lb. Chromanil brown 2 G, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 1 lb. bichromate of potash, 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Grey.—Dye at the boil for one hour with 1 lb. Zambesi black F, 3 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; fix in a fresh boiling bath with 3 lb. sulphate of copper, 1 lb. bichromate of potash and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.
Dark Grey.—Dye with 3 lb. Chromanil black 4 R F, 3 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 1 lb. bichromate of potash, 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Grey.—Use in the dye-bath 1 lb. Diamine blue R W, ½ lb. Diamine orange B, ¼ lb. Diamine new blue R, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, fixing with 4 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Pale Greenish Grey.—Dye with ¼ oz. Diamine orange B, 3 oz. Diamine blue R W, ½ lb. soda, 2 lb. soap and 5 lb. Glauber's salt, fixing with 1 lb. sulphate of copper and ½ lb. acetic acid.
Slate Blue.—Dye with ¼ lb. Diamine dark blue B, 2 oz. Diamine new blue R, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 2 lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic acid.
Grey.—Prepare the dye-bath with 2 lb. Cross-dye black 2 B, 5 lb. soda ash, 15 lb. common salt; after rinsing leave the cotton in the air to age overnight, rinse again and work for half to three-quarters of an hour at from 150° to 160° F. in a bath containing 5 lb. bichromate of potash and 5 lb. sulphuric acid, then thoroughly rinse and dry.
Dark Grey.—Dye with 1 lb. Diamine jet black Cr, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, fixing with 1 lb. bichromate of potash and ½ lb. acetic acid.
Green Grey.—Dye with 1 lb. Diamine dark blue B, 2 oz. Diamine orange B, 4 oz. Diamine fast yellow B, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, fixing with 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic acid.
Grey.—Dye with 4 oz. Dianil black N, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. salt, fixing with 1 lb. copper sulphate and ½ lb. acetic acid.
Black.—Prepare the dye-bath with 5½ lb. Diamine jet black R B, 1 lb. Diamine dark blue B, 20 lb. Glauber's salt; dye at the boil for one hour, rinse and then treat the goods simmering for twenty minutes with 4 lb. bichromate of potash.
Black.—Prepare the dye-bath with 8 lb. Chromanil black R F and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; dye at the boil for one hour, then treat boiling hot for about thirty minutes in a fresh bathwith 1 lb. bichromate of potash and 3 lb. sulphate of copper. Add 6 lb. only of the dye-stuff to the bath for a second batch.
Black.—Use 5 lb. Dianil black N, 5 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt; then fix with 3 lb. copper sulphate, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Black.—Use in the dye-bath 5 lb. Dianil black C R. 3 lb. caustic soda, 36° Tw. and 20 lb. salt, fixing with 3 lb. copper sulphate, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Jet Black.—Dye with 5 lb. Diamine jet black Cr, 1 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, fixing with 4 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. acetic acid.
It will be convenient here to deal with a small but growing and important class of dye-stuffs which contain sulphur in their composition, and which, therefore, are named:—
Sulphur or Sulphyl Colours.
The original type of this group is Cachou de laval, sent out a good many years ago, but of late years Vidal black, St. Dennis black, Cross-dye blacks and drab, Immedial blacks, blues and browns, Amidazol blacks, browns and olives, Sulfaniline black and brown, Katigen blacks, greens and browns, etc., have been added, and the group is likely to become a very numerous one in the future.
All these colours are dyed on to the cotton or linen from baths containing soda and salt, while some require the addition of sodium sulphide or caustic soda in order to have the dye-stuff properly dissolved. They are very weak dyes compared with the direct colours, and require from 20 to 60 per cent. to produce full shades, although of this fully one-third remains in the bath unabsorbed by the cotton. It is, therefore, important in order to work as economically as possible to retain the bath, bringing it up to strength by the addition of fresh dye-stuffs, etc.
Most of the dyes require the dyed goods to pass through a second bath of some reagent, bichromate of potash, sulphate of copper, etc., in order to fully develop and fix the dye on the fabric.
The best method of using the various dyes of this group will be given in the form of formulæ. Two points of importance are to use as strong a dye liquor as possible, and to expose the cotton as little as possible to the air during the dyeing operation. The dye-stuffs when exposed to the air readily become oxidised, and are thereby converted into insoluble products which become fixed on the fibre in a loose form, and in that case the dyed fibre rubs rather badly.
Pale Brown.—Prepare a dye-bath with 15 lb. Cachou de laval, 10 lb. of soda, and 10 lb. salt. The bath is not exhausted of colouring matter, and by adding one-half of the above quantities of dye-stuff and salt may be used again for another lot of cotton. After the dyeing the cotton is passed into a fixing bath of 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. acetic acid, working at 180° F. ten to fifteen minutes.
Black.—Prepare the dye-bath with 200 gallons of water, 10 lb. soda, 10 lb. sulphide of sodium, 60 lb. salt and 16 lb. Immedial black V extra. Work at the boil for one hour, keeping the cotton well under the surface during the operation, in the case of yarns this is effected by using bent iron rods on which to hang the hanks in the vat, in the case of pieces by working with vats the guide rollers of which are below the surface of the dye liquor. After the dyeing the yarn or pieces are squeezed, well rinsed in water, then passed into the fixing bath, which contains 2 lb. sulphate of copper, 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 3 lb. of acetic acid, for half an hour at 170° to 180° F. Bichromate of potash used alone gives a reddish shade of black, sulphate of copper a greenish shade, a mixture of the two gives a greenish shade.
There are three brands of Immedial black,viz., V extra, Gextra and F F, which vary a little in the tone of black they produce. The method of using is identical for all three. The dye-bath is not exhausted of colour and so should be kept standing, for each subsequent lot of cotton add 8 lb. Immedial black and 3 lb. sulphide of soda, and to every 10 gallons of water added to bring the bath up to volume ½ lb. soda and 3 lb. salt.
These blacks are very fast to washing, light, etc. By using smaller quantities of dye-stuff good greys can be dyed.
Black.—Prepare the dye-bath with 10 lb. soda, 10 lb. sulphide of sodium, 60 lb. salt and 25 lb. Vidal black, work at the boil for one hour, then rinse and fix with 3 lb bichromate of potash and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Black.—Prepare the dye-bath with 30 lb. Cross-dye black B, 10 lb. soda, 150 lb. salt. Dissolve the dye-stuff in boiling water, then add the soda crystals and finally the salt. Enter the previously well-boiled cotton at about 175° F. After a few turns raise the temperature to the boil as quickly as possible, and work for one hour (just at the boil). Lift and thoroughly rinse without delay. (The better the cotton is washed the clearer the ultimate shade.) After washing, wring up and let air age for about one hour; the intensity of the black is thereby increased.
Meanwhile prepare a bath with 5 lb. bichromate of potash, 4 lb. sulphuric acid (168° Tw.). Enter at 150° to 160° F., and work at this for about ten minutes. After chroming, wash thoroughly to remove all traces of acid. At this stage, the usual softening may take place if desirable, and finally dry at a low temperature.
The bath is kept up for further lots, and three-fourths the quantity of colouring matter, and about half soda and one fourth salt are used. Wood, or iron cisterns are most suitable, and copper pans or pipes must be avoided.
The dye-bath should be kept as short as possible, abouttwelve to fifteen times the amount of water on the weight of cotton is advisable. The cotton when in the dye-bath should be exposed as little as possible to the air.
There are several brands of these Cross-dye blacks varying in the tone of black they give.
Black.—Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. soda ash, 200 lb. salt and 20 lb. Amidazol black G, this is heated to 150° F., the cotton is entered, the heat raised to the boil, and the dyeing done for an hour at that heat. Lift, rinse well, then pass into a chroming bath, made from 5 lb. bichromate of potash and 3 lb. sulphuric acid, used at 160° F. for twenty minutes, then lift, wash well and dry. The bath may be kept standing and used for other lots of cotton by replenishing with about two-thirds of the original weight of dye-stuff and a little soda. There are four brands of these Amidazol blacks which dye from a jet black with the G to a deep blue black with the 6 G brand. The G, 2 G, and 4 G, used in small quantities, 2½ to 3 lb., dye good greys of a bluish tone, the 6 G gives a dull blue, the 4 G and 6 G, used in the proportions of 7½ to 10 per cent., give dark blues.
All these blacks may be combined with aniline black with good results as shown in the following recipe:—
Black.—Prepare the dye-bath with 10 lb. Amidazol black 2 G, 5 lb. soda and 100 lb. salt. Work at the boil for an hour, then rinse, pass into a cold bath made from 2½ lb. aniline oil, 2½ lb. hydrochloric acid, 6½ lb. sulphuric acid, 7½ lb. bichromate of potash, and 5½ lb. perchloride of iron, 66° Tw. This is used cold for an hour, then the heat is slowly raised to 160° F., when the operation is finished, and the cotton is taken out well rinsed and finished as usual. Any of this class of black may be so topped with aniline black if thought necessary A very fast black is thus got.
Black.—Make the dye-bath with 15 lb. Sulfaniline black G, 60 lb. salt, 10 lb. soda, and 5 lb. sulphide of sodium. Workat a little under the boil, then lift, rinse well and pass into a hot bath of 3 lb. bichromate of potash, 3 lb. sulphate of copper, and 4 lb. acetic acid for half an hour, then lift, rinse well and dry.
It has been observed in the practical application on a large scale of these sulphur blacks that the cotton is liable to become tendered on being stored, although there are few signs of such after the dyeing is finished. The exact cause of this is somewhat uncertain, the most probable reason is that during the process of dyeing a deposit of sulphur in a fine state of division has been thrown down on the cotton by decomposition of the dye-stuff, and that this sulphur has in time become oxidised to sulphuric acid which then exerts its well-known tendering action on the cotton.
The remedy for this evil lies partly with the dye manufacturer and chiefly with the dyer. The dye manufacturer should see that his product is made as free from sulphur as possible, while the dyer by careful attention to thorough washing, thorough fixation in the chrome, etc. baths, tends to eliminate all sulphur from the goods, and so prevent all possibility of the cotton becoming affected.
Blue.—Make the dye-bath with 22 lb. Immedial blue C, 13 lb. sulphide of sodium, 50 lb. salt and 15 lb. caustic soda lye at 70° Tw. Work at just under the boil for one hour, keeping the goods well under the surface of the liquor. After the dyeing the goods are well rinsed in the water and then passed into a vat which contains 1 lb. peroxide of sodium and 1 lb. sulphuric acid. This is started cold, after about fifteen minutes heat slowly to about 150°, work for twenty minutes, then lift, wash and dry. For subsequent lots of cotton there only need be used 7 lb. Immedial blue C. 2 lb. sulphide of sodium, 3 lb. salt and 1½ lb. caustic soda lye at 70° Tw. The blue may also be developed by steaming with air in a suitable chest or steaming chamber. By toppingwith ¼ lb. New methylene blue N, very bright blue shades can be dyed.
Dark Navy.—Prepare the dye-bath with 25 lb. Immedial blue C, 24 lb. sulphide of sodium, 35 lb. common salt and 12 lb. caustic soda lye, working at the boil for one hour, then rinse and develop in a bath made from 2½ lb. peroxide of sodium and 2½ lb. sulphuric acid, started cold, then after twenty minutes heated to 160° F., twenty minutes longer at that heat will be sufficient. For second and subsequent lots of cotton there is added to the old bath 15 lb. Immedial blue C, 4 lb. sulphide of sodium, 5 lb. salt and 2 lb. caustic soda lye of 70° Tw.
Blue.—A pale but not very bright shade of blue is dyed in a bath of 3 lb. Amidazol black 6 G, 5 lb. soda and 25 lb. salt. After working for one hour at the boil, lift, rinse and pass into a bath which contains 2½ lb. peroxide of sodium and 2½ lb. sulphuric acid; this is started cold, then heated to 150° F., and kept at that heat for twenty minutes, when the cotton is taken out, well washed and dried.
Deep Blue.—Dye with 20 lb. Amidazol black 6 G, 5 lb. soda and 200 lb. salt; develop with 2 lb. peroxide of sodium and 2½ lb. sulphuric acid, working as noted above.
Dark Drab.—Prepare the dye-bath with 20 lb. Cross-dye drab, 5 lb. soda crystals and 80 lb. salt, work at the boil for an hour, then lift, wash well and dry; this can be chromed if desired.
Brown.—Dye with 20 lb. Amidazol cutch, 5 lb. soda ash and 150 lb. salt, working at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash thoroughly and dry. By after treatment in a bath of 3 lb. potassium bichromate and 3 lb. sulphuric acid the colour is made fast to washing. The shade is not altered.
Buff.—Dye with 2½ lb. Amidazol cutch, 5 lb. soda and 25 lb. salt, working at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and dry.
Pale Sea Green.—Dye with 4 lb. Amidazol green Y, 5 lb. soda and 25 lb. salt, working at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash well and dry.
Dark Green.—Dye with 20 lb. Amidazol green B, 5 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt; work at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash thoroughly and dry.
Dark Brown.—Dye with 20 lb. Amidazol cachou, 5 lb. soda and 200 lb. salt, working for an hour at the boil, then lift, rinse well and pass into a chrome bath of 4 lb. potassium bichromate and 3 lb. sulphuric acid at 50° F. for half an hour, then wash well and dry.
Dark Sage.—Dye with 20 lb. Amidazol drab, 5 lb. soda ash and 150 lb. salt for an hour at the boil, then lift and chrome with 4 lb. potassium bichromate and 8 lb. sulphuric acid for thirty minutes at 150° F., washing well afterwards.
All the Amidazol dyes are very fast to washing, acids, etc. They can be treated with sulphate of copper or peroxide of sodium when they produce good shades. They may even be diazotised and developed with beta-naphthol and phenylene diamine. The pale tints got by using from 2 to 4 per cent. of dye-stuff are useful ones, as also are the medium shades with 10 per cent. of dye-stuff.
Brown.—Prepare the dye-bath with 10 lb. Sulfaniline brown 4 B, 50 lb. salt, 10 lb. soda and 5 lb sulphide of sodium; work at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and treat in a fresh bath with 3 lb. potassium bichromate and 2 lb. acetic acid at 160° F. for half an hour, then wash well and dry.
Olive.—Dye with 10 lb. Katigen olive G, 50 lb. salt, 10 lb. soda and 6 lb. sulphide of sodium; work for one hour at the boil, then lift, wash and treat in a fresh bath with 2 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid for half an hour at the boil, then wash.
Dark Olive.—Dye with 20 lb. Katigen olive G, 50 lb. salt, 10 lb. soda, and 6 lb. sulphide of sodium, working at the boilfor one hour, then lift, wash and dry. By chroming a darker and faster olive is got.
Brown.—Dye with 20 lb. Katigen dark brown, 50 lb. salt, 10 lb. soda and 6 lb. sulphide of sodium at the boil for one hour, then treat in a fresh bath with 2 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid for half an hour at the boil, then wash well.
Pale Brown.—Dye with 8 lb. Immedial bronze A, 2 lb. soda, 2 lb. sulphide of sodium and 10 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour, then lift, rinse and pass into a fresh bath containing 1 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. acetic-acid at 150° F. for half an hour, then lift, wash and dry.
Dark Brown.—Dye with 12 lb. Immedial brown B, 5 lb. sulphide of sodium, 5 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt at the boil for one hour, then lift and treat in a fresh bath with 2 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.
The Immedial blacks, blue, bronze and brown dye very fast shades, standing soaping, acids and light. They may be combined together to produce a great range of shades of blue, brown, green, grey, etc.
These examples will perhaps suffice to show how this new but important class of sulphyl colours are applied to the dyeing of cotton. They may be topped with aniline black, indigo, basic dyes, or combined with such direct dyes as produce shades fast to chroming to form a very great range of shades which have the merit of fastness.
(3) DIRECT DYEING FOLLOWED BY FIXATION WITH DEVELOPERS.
A large number of the dyes prepared from coal tar are called azo colours, such for instance are the Biebrich and Croceine scarlets and oranges, Naphthol black, Congo red, etc.,just to name a few. The preparation of these is about the simplest operation of colour chemistry, and consists in taking as the base an amido compound as the chemist calls such. These amido compounds, of which aniline, toluidine, benzidine, naphthylamine are familiar examples, are characterised by containing the molecular group NH2, which radicle is built up of the two elements nitrogen and hydrogen. All compounds which contain this group are basic in character and combine with acids to form well-defined salts. When these amido bodies are treated with sodium nitrite and hydrochloric acid they undergo a chemical change, the feature of which is that the nitrogen atoms present in the amido compound and in the nitrite unite together and a new compound is produced which is called a diazo compound, and the operation is called "diazotisation".
For example when paranitroaniline is subjected to this reaction it undergoes a change indicated in the chemical equation:—
C6H4NO2NH2, + NaNO2, + 2HCl = Paranitroaniline, Sodium nitrite, Hydrochloric acid.
C6H4NO2N: NCl + NaCl + 2H20 = Paranitro benzene Sodium chloride, Water, diazo chloride.
The above, put into words, means that when paranitroaniline is dissolved with hydrochloric acid and treated with nitrite of soda it forms diazonitro benzene chloride, sodium chloride and water. Now the diazo compounds are rather unstable bodies, but they have a great affinity for other compounds, such as naphthol, phenylene diamine, phenol, and combine easily with them when brought into contact with them. The new compounds thus made form the dye-stuffs of commerce.
The azo dyes contain the characteristic group of twonitrogen atoms shown in the formula N: N. In dealing with the production of colours direct on the fibre this subject will be elaborated more fully.
Now many of the direct dyes, Diamine blacks, Diamine cutch, Primuline, Diazo brown, Zambesi blues, browns, etc., contain amido groups, by reason of having been made from such bodies as phenylene diamine, amido naphthol, toluidine, etc., and it has been found that when dyed on the fibre they are capable of being diazotised by passing the dyed fibre into a bath of sodium nitrite acidified with hydrochloric acid, and if then they are placed into a bath containing such a body as beta-naphthol, phenylene diamine, etc., new compounds or dyes are produced, which are characterised by being insoluble in water, and therefore as formed on the fibre in the manner indicated are very fast to washing, soaping and similar agencies.
Often the new or developed dye formed on the fibre differs markedly in colour from the original dye. Perhaps in no case is this more strongly shown than with Primuline. The original colour is a greenish yellow, but by using various developers, as they are called, a great variety of shade can be got, as shown in this table.
Developer.Colour produced.
Beta-naphthol Bright scarlet. Alpha-naphthol Crimson. Phenylene diamine Brown. Phenol Gold yellow. Resorcine Orange. Naphthylamine ether Blue. Blue developer A N Green.
As regards the dyeing operation, it no way differs from that described for simple direct colours. It should, however, be noted that if good results are required full shades must bedyed. The cotton must be rinsed in cold water, and be quite cold before it is subjected to the diazotising operation.Diazotisingis a simple operation, yet it must be carried out with care if good results are desired. It consists essentially in the use of an acidulated bath of sodium nitrite.
To make the bath for diazotising there is taken (for each 100 lb. of goods) sufficient water to handle them in comfortably, 8 lb. of sodium nitrite and 6 lb. hydrochloric acid. This bath must be quite cold otherwise it does not work well. The goods are handled in this for from fifteen to twenty minutes, when they are ready for the next operation. The bath is not exhausted of nitrite, etc., hence it can be kept standing, and for each succeeding lot of cotton it is strengthened up by adding one-third of the quantities of nitrite and acid originally used. Of course the bath cannot be kept for ever, sooner or later it will get dirty, and then it must be thrown away and a new bath be made up.
The diazo compounds formed on the fibre are not very stable bodies. They decompose on being exposed for any great length of time to the air, while light has a strong action on most, if not all of them; hence it follows that the diazotising process should not be carried out in a room where direct, strong sunlight can enter or fall upon the goods. Then again, after diazotising, the treated goods should not be allowed to lie about exposed to air and light, but the operation of developing should be proceeded with at once, otherwise the diazo body will decompose, and weak and defective colours are liable to be obtained on subsequent development.
Fordeveloping, quite a large number of substances are used. Some of these are regular articles of commerce, others are the special productions of certain firms, who advise their use with the dyes that they also manufacture. These latter are sent out under such designations as Developer B, Developer A N, or Fast-blue developer. Those most in use are beta-naphthol for red from Primuline, and for bluish blacks fromDiamine blacks, Diazo blacks, Zambesi blacks, etc.; for dark blues from Diamine blues, Diazo blues, etc.; for greys from Diamine blues, Neutral grey, etc. Alpha-naphthol for dark reds from Primuline, greys from Diamine blues, Neutral grey, etc. Phenylene diamine for blacks from Diamine blacks, Diazo blacks, Zambesi blacks, Triamine blacks, etc.; for dark browns from Diamine browns, Diazo browns, etc.; for light browns from Cotton browns, Diamine cutch, Primuline, etc. Naphthylamine ether for blues from Diamine blacks, etc. Phenol for claret from Diamine cutch, and for gold yellow from Primuline, etc. Resorcine for orange from Primuline, etc. Soda for browns from Diamine cutch, Diazo browns, Zambesi browns, for orange from Diamine orange, and yellow from Primuline.
Beta-naphthol.—This is by far the most important of the developers. It is a white body, insoluble in water, but readily soluble in soda lye, and a solution is easily made by taking 10 lb. beta-naphthol and heating it with 10 lb. caustic soda lye of 70° Tw. and 60 gallons of water. This bath may be used as the developing bath, or it may be diluted with more water. It is not desirable to use any more caustic soda than is necessary to dissolve the beta-naphthol, so that the bath is not too alkaline. To produce full shades it usually takes 1 per cent. of the weight of the cotton of the beta-naphthol, but it is best to use the bath as a continuous one and for the first lot of cotton use 2 per cent. of naphthol, while for each succeeding lot only 1 per cent. more naphthol need be added to the same bath.
This bath is alkaline, while the diazotising bath is acid, unless, therefore, the cotton be well washed when it is taken from the latter bath there is a risk of the alkali of the one being neutralised by the acidity of the other, and the naphthol being thrown out in an insoluble form. This, of course, is easily remedied should it occur.
Developer A (Bayer) is a mixture of beta-naphthol and caustic soda in the powder form, so that a solution is obtained by simply adding water. Rather more (about 1½ per cent.) of this is required than of beta-naphthol.
Alpha-naphtholhas similar properties to, and is used in the same way as, beta-naphthol; it develops much darker and rather duller colours, which are less fast to washing.
Resorcine, like naphthol, is insoluble in water, but it can be dissolved by using either soda ash or caustic soda. The latter is preferable, as the former is liable to give a developing bath that froths in working, especially if much acid has been left in the cotton from the diazotising bath. The proportions are: 10 lb. resorcine, 25 lb. caustic soda lye of 70° Tw., and 60 gallons of water; or 10 lb. resorcine, 20 lb. soda ash, and 60 gallons of water, heated until a solution is obtained. In the developing bath 1 per cent. of resorcine is usually sufficient to use. It develops an orange with Primuline.
Developer F (Bayer) is a mixture of resorcine and soda ash. It requires 1½ per cent, to make a developing bath.
Phenol, better known as carbolic acid, finds a use as a developer. It is dissolved in caustic soda, 10 lb. phenol, 15 lb. caustic soda lye of 70° Tw., and 60 gallons of water. Generally 1 per cent. is sufficient to use as a developer. It is often called yellow developer.
Naphthylamine etheris used as a developer for blues in conjunction with the Diamine blacks. It is prepared for use by dissolving in hydrochloric acid, 10 lb. naphthylamine ether powder heated with 5 lb. hydrochloric acid and 50 gallons water. About 1¼ per cent. is required to form a developing bath. Naphthylamine ether is also sent out in the form of a paste mixed with acid, and containing about 25 per cent. of the actual developer.
Fast blue developer A D(Cassella), is amidodiphenylamine. It is insoluble in water, but soluble in dilute acid,10 lb. fast blue developer A D, 5 lb. hydrochloric acid and 35 gallons of water making the bath. To develop full shades 1 to 1½ per cent, is required.
Blue developer A N(Cassella). The base of this is insoluble in water, but dissolves in soda, and is probably a naphthol-sulpho acid. The product, as met with in the market, is soluble in water, and 27 lb. dissolved in 20 gallons of water form the bath. To produce full shades 1½ per cent, is usually required.
Phenylene diamineis a most important developer. It comes into the market in two forms, as a powder, very nearly pure, made into a solution by dissolving 10 lb. with 20 gallons of water and 5 lb. hydrochloric acid, and as a solution prepared ready for use. Developer C (Bayer) and developer E (Bayer) are preparations of diamine, the former in a powder, the latter in a solution. Phenylene diamine can be used with the addition to the developing bath of acetic acid or soda.
Schaeffer's acidis a sulpho acid of beta-naphthol, and is dissolved by taking 10 lb. of the acid and 7½ lb. soda, boiling with 50 gallons of water. About 1¼ per cent. is required for developing full shades.
Developer B (Bayer) is ethyl beta-naphthylamine, in the form of its hydrochloric acid compound. The bath is made from 10 lb. of the developer and 50 gallons of water, 1¼ per cent. being used to obtain full shades.
Developer D (Bayer) is dioxy-naphthalene-sulpho acid, and simply requires dissolving in water to make the bath.
Toluylene diamineis a homologue of phenylene diamine and is used in precisely the same way.
Generally the special developers issued by the various colour firms simply require dissolving in water to form the developing bath.
The cotton, previously being passed through the diazotising bath, is then run into the developing bath, in which it is kept for from twenty to thirty minutes or until the required shade is fully developed, after which it is taken out, rinsed and dried. The method of working is the same for all the developers, and may be carried out in any kind of vessels. As is indicated above, the developing baths may be kept standing and be freshened up as required; they are used cold. Sometimes two developers are mixed together, in which case care should be taken that an alkaline developer naphthol or phenol be not mixed with an acid developer (phenylene diamine, naphthylamine, etc.), unless the acidity of the latter has been neutralised with soda; otherwise the developer might be thrown out of the bath in an insoluble and hence useless form.
The advantages of the diazotising and developing process just described may be summed as—easy and quick working, superior fastness to washing, soaping and milling, increased fastness to light and softness of the dyed fibre.
Scarlet.—Dye with 3 lb. Primuline and 20 lb. salt, at the boil for one hour, diazotise and develop with beta-naphthol.
Crimson.—Dye with 3 lb. Primuline and 20 lb. salt, then diazotise and develop with alpha-naphthol.
Red Brown.—Dye with 4 lb. Primuline and 20 lb. salt, then diazotise and develop with phenylene diamine.