Blue and Gold Yellow.--3 lb. Diamine Orange G, 13 oz. Naphthol Blue G, 14-1/2 oz. Formyl Violet S 4 B, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt; work at just under the boil.
Brown and Blue.---1 lb. Diamine Steel Blue L, 9-1/2 oz. Diamine Sky Blue, 1 lb. Orange E N Z, 1 lb. Indian Yellow G, 1-3/4 oz. Naphthol Blue Black and 15 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at 170° to 180° F.
In these two last recipes only one bath is used, all the dyesbeing added at once. This is possible if care be taken that dye-stuffs are used which will dye wool and not cotton from neutral baths and dyes which dye cotton better than wool. The temperature should also be kept below the boil and carefully regulated as the operation proceeds and the results begin to show themselves.
Grey and Orange.--First bath, 3 oz. Orange extra, 1-1/4 lb. Cyanole extra, 11 lb. Azo Red A, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 5 oz. Diamine Orange D C and 3 oz. Diamine Fast Yellow B.
Green and Red.--First bath, 2 lb. Croceine A Z and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Second bath, 1 lb. Diamine Sky Blue F F, 1/2 lb. Thioflavine S, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
Brown and Violet.--First bath, 3/4 lb. Orange extra, 3/4 lb. Cyanole extra, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 5 oz. Diamine Brilliant Blue G and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
Black and Yellow.--First bath, 7 lb. Naphthol Black B, 1/2 lb. Fast Yellow S, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 3 lb. Diamine Fast Yellow A and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
Black and Pink.--Black as above. Pink with Diamine Rose B D (see above).
Green and Buff.--First bath, 1/4 lb. Orange extra, 3/4 oz. Fast Yellow S and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 3/4 lb. Diamine Sky Blue F F, 1/2 lb. Thioflavine S, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
Orange and Violet.--First bath, 9 oz. Orange extra and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 3/4 lb. Diamine Violet N and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.
Black and Blue.--First bath, Naphthol Black, as given above. Second bath, Diamine Sky Blue, as given above.
Black and Yellow.--Add first 1 lb. Wool Black 6 B and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then when the wool has been dyed add 2 lb. Curcumine S to dye the cotton in the same bath.
Green and Red.--Dye the wool by using 3 lb. Guinea Green B,1/4 lb. Curcumine extra, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then add to the bath 3/4 lb. Erika B N and 3/4 lb. Congo Corinth G.
Orange and Blue.--Dye the wool first with 1-1/4 lb. Mandarine G, 2 oz. Wool Black 6 B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; then the cotton with 2 lb. Columbia Blue G.
Blue and Orange.--Dye the wool first with 3/4 lb. Guinea Violet B, 3/4 lb. Guinea Green B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; then dye the cotton with 2 lb. Mikado Orange 4 R O.
Green and Orange.--Dye the wool with 3 lb. Guinea Green B, 1/4 lb. Curcumine extra and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then dye the cotton in the same bath with 1-1/2 lb. Mikado Orange 4 R O.
Gloria is a material which during the last few years has become of considerable importance as furnishing a fine lustrous fabric at a comparatively low price. The perfection to which the art of dyeing has attained and the facilities now available to the dyer, enable this to be produced more beautiful than ever, and naturally an increased demand for it as a dress fabric has developed.
Gloria is woven from the two fibres, wool and silk, of a fine texture to enable it to be used in the place of a silk fabric. Formerly it was usually woven with the wool and silk yarns already dyed, especially when a "shot" effect was to be produced, this being done by a twill weave of the fabric and by the use of yarns of two very different colours in the case of "shot" fabrics. By the introduction of dye-stuffs derived from coal tar the cloth is now dyed after being woven, care being taken to choose those which will dye the two fibres equally well when self-shades are wanted, or those which will dye one fibre better than the other, and thus allow a woven piece of gloria to be dyed of two different colours. As most dyers know, the most brilliant effects are obtained when the finished woven piece can be dyed. Then all the grease and dirt which has become attached to it during the operations of spinning the yarns and weaving the pieces can be removed before dyeing, thus leaving the fabric in a perfectly clean condition. Thus no after cleansing is required,whereas when the fibres are dyed in the yarn the goods must be cleansed after weaving to free them from dirt, and such cleaning has a somewhat deleterious effect upon the brilliancy of the colour of the finished fabric, more especially in the case of light colours.
Gloria may be in one colour only, a self-colour as it is called; this case is comparatively simple, the only care that is required being to select dyes which have an equal affinity for the two fibres or which give but slightly different shades. Still, some good effects are obtained when dyes are used which dye the silk and wool different colours but give the combined effect of a self-colour. Or the fibre may be purposely dyed in two different colours in some cases to give the "shot" effect. This is much more troublesome, but with a little care can be carried out with good results. The dyes available for dyeing gloria may be classified, according to their behaviour in regard to their dyeing of the two fibres, into three groups as follows:--
Group A.--Those which will dye the two fibres of equal shade.
Group B.--Those which will dye the wool at boiling heat more readily than the silk.
Group C.--Those which will dye the silk only in a cold bath.
Group Aconsists of those dyes which can be used in dyeing self-colours on gloria from acid baths. It includes Alkali Blue, Naphthylamine Blacks, Naphthol Green B, Indian Yellow, Croceine A Z, Croceine Orange, Orange R, Brilliant Croceine M, Rose Bengale, Thiocarmine R, Soluble Blue, Formyl Violet S 4 B, Acid Green, Croceine Orange G, Carmoisin, Acid Violet 5 B, Fast Acid Violet 10 B, Fast Green Bluish, Rhodamine, Silk Blue, Victoria Black, Archil, Turmeric, Safranine, Auramine, Quinoline Yellow, Azoflavine, Victoria Blue and Bismarck Brown.
GroupBcomprises those dye-stuffs which in a boiling acid bath dye the wool deeper than the silks, in other words have more affinity for the wool than the silk, Tropæoline O, Acid Magenta, Indigo Extract, Phloxine, Naphthol Yellow, Orange G G, Scarlet S, Azo Red A, Eosines, Thiocarmine R, Naphthol Black B B, New Victoria Black Blue, Erythrosine, and Roccelline.
The silk becomes tinted to a more or less extent when in such a bath, but often the colour is readily removed either by subsequent passage through boiling water or through hot soap liquor. A very good clearing can be effected by the use of a bath of acetate of ammonia. Naphthol Yellow, for instance, only imparts a very faint shade of yellow when thus dyed, and this is easily removed by boiling-water treatment.
Group C.--Those dye-stuffs which will dye the silk more readily in a cold bath than the wool. These comprise most of the basic dyes, such as Thioflavine T, Safranine, Brilliant Green, Methyl Violet, Magenta, New Methylene Blue, Bismarck Brown, Rose Bengale, Phloxine, Acid Greens, Formyl Violet S 4 B, Rhodamine, Solid Blue, etc.
Gloria may be dyed either by a one-bath or two-bath process, and either one or two colours, as may be required. In both cases advantage may be taken of the different affinities of the two fibres for the dye-stuffs used, as, for instance, the silk may be dyed brown, the wool olive by using a mixture of Acid Yellow, Indigo extract and Orange G. Indigo extract, Cochineal, Acid Magenta, Picric acid, Naphthol Yellow, and Tartrazine dye the wool only at the boil.
The following recipes will serve to illustrate the foregoing remarks and show how this important fabric may be dyed:--
Deep Gold.--The dye-bath is made from 2 lb. Indian Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, dyed at the boil. In this and following recipes the quantities are for 100 lb.
Orange.--Thedye-bath is made with 2 lb. Indian Yellow, 19 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Scarlet.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Scarlet 3 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Another scarlet is got from 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Another scarlet is got from 2 lb. Croceine Scarlet 3 B, 2 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; by using the 5 B Scarlet a bluer shade can be dyed. Azo Cochineal also dyes a fine scarlet on gloria.
Crimson.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Carmoisin B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. The 7 B Croceine Scarlet also dyes a fine crimson of a more fiery tone than the last, while 2-1/2 lb. Azo Fuchsine G dyes a bluer shade of crimson.
Rose.--A fine rose is obtained with 2 lb. Rhodamine B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and a little acetic acid. 1 lb. Phloxine dyes a fine deep rose; the silk comes out a paler colour than the wool, but the general effect is good.
Deep Maroon.--Make the dye-bath from 1-1/2 lb. Croceine A Z, 1/2 lb. Indian Yellow, 1/4 lb. Formyl Violet S 4 B, 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Enter the goods, work at the boil for an hour, then cool down to 120° F., enter an equal quantity of dye-stuff and work for an hour longer.
Pale Maroon.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Azo Bordeaux, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Black.--Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Naphthylamine Black D, 1 lb. Acid Green B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid; work at the boil for twenty minutes, then allow to cool to 120° or 130° F., then work an hour longer. Another black can be dyed in a similar way from 5 lb. Victoria Black B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Violet.--Use 2 lb. Acid Violet 5 B, or 2 lb. Formyl Violet S 4 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Fast Acid Violet 10 B gives a bluer shade than the above.
Green.--Makethe dye-bath with 2 lb. Acid Green G G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil. This gives a bright yellow shade of green; a bluer shade can be got from Acid Green 6 B or Acid Green B, while Fast Green Bluish gives very blue greens.
Coeruleum Blue.--Dye with 3/4 lb. Silk Blue B E S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid; this gives a very fine bright blue.
Deep Indigo Blue.--Dye with 4-1/2 lb. Solid Blue R, 2 lb. Thiocarmine R paste, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Deep Violet Brown.--Dye with 3 lb. Croceine A Z, 1-1/4 lb. Indian Yellow, 1-3/4 lb. Formyl Violet S 4 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid for an hour at the boil, and for an hour at 120° F.
Blue Black.--Make the dye-bath with 5 lb. New Victoria Blue Black, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil. Another plan is to use 5 lb. Naphthylamine Black 4 B and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda.
Dark Grey.--Prepare a dye-bath with 3 lb. Naphthol Black 3 B, 4 lb. Naphthol Green B, 1 lb. Amaranth, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 8 lb. copperas, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for an hour and then rinsing in water to which a little acetate of ammonia has been added. The silk is dyed grey and the wool a black.
Brown.--A fine yellow brown shot with lilac is obtained by first dyeing in a bath of 5 lb. Naphthol Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Wash in hot water, then dye with 2-1/2 lb. Solid Blue P G, 1-1/2 oz. Methyl Violet B O, and 5 lb. acetic acid in the cold.
Wool, Orange; Silk, Pale Green.--Dye the wool with 1-1/2 lb. Orange G G, 6 oz. Naphthol Green B, 2-1/2 oz. Naphthol Red C, 10 lb. bisulphate of soda, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid; and the silk with 1/2 lb. Milling Yellow and 1/2 lb. Acid Green.
Wool,Black; Silk, Light Grey.--Dye in a bath with 5 lb. Anthracene Acid Black S T, 4-1/2 oz. Fast Yellow S, 10 lb. bisulphate of soda, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. The silk is cleaned by boiling for ten minutes in a soap bath.
Wool, Bright Red; Silk, Blush Rose.--The gloria silk is dyed in a bath of 3 lb. Naphthol Red O, 10 lb. bisulphate of soda, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. After dyeing, soap for ten minutes.
Wool, Black; Silk, Green.--Dye the wool in a bath containing 5 lb. Anthracene Acid Black S T, 5 oz. Fast Yellow S, 2 lb. oxalic acid, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 15 lb. acetic acid. Work the goods in this at the boil for an hour, then lift, add 3/4 lb. bichromate of potash, and boil for twenty minutes longer. Clean the silk by boiling in a bath of soap for twenty minutes, then dye in a cold bath containing 1 lb. Thioflavine T and 1 lb. Brilliant Green.
Wool, Dark Maroon; Silk, Pale Blue.--After the manner described in the first recipe, dye the wool with 1 lb. Orange G G, 3 lb. Naphthol Green B, 2 lb. Brilliant Cochineal 2 R, 10 lb. bisulphate of soda, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Dye the silk with 1-1/2 lb. Pure Blue O T.
Wool, Violet; Silk, Green.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Acid Violet 4 B, 9 oz. Indigotine extra, 10 lb. bisulphate of soda, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. The dyeing is carried on at the boil until the bath is exhausted of colour, whereupon the goods are well rinsed in water. They are next soaped at 160° F. for ten minutes in a liquor containing 1/2 oz. soap per gallon, then rinsed. Next a dye-bath is made with 1 lb. Acid Green, 8 oz. Milling Yellow O, and 1 lb. acetic acid, the goods being treated in this in the cold until the desired shade is obtained, then lifted, rinsed and dried.
Violet and Pink.--A fine effect of violet shot with pink is obtained by dyeing in a bath of 1-1/2 lb. Indigo extract, 1/2 lb. Rhodamine B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Brown Olive and Greenis dyed in a bath made with 1 lb. QuinolineYellow, 1 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 1/4 lb. Fast Green Bluish, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. By using about half the above quantities of dye-stuffs a drab effect shot with green can be obtained.
Crimson and Green.--The first bath is made from 4 lb. Azo Red A and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda, worked for an hour at the boil; then treat in a weak bath of acetate of ammonia; and dye the silk in a cold bath of 2 oz. Solid Green Crystals, 1/4 lb. Thioflavine T, and 5 lb. acetic acid.
Violet and Pink.--Dye in a bath of 1-1/4 lb. Indigo extract, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Brown and Pink.--This is dyed in a bath made from 1-1/4 lb. Fast Yellow, 5 oz. Rhodamine B, 1/4 lb. indigo extract, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. The silk dyes a pale pink while the general effect is that of a fine fawn brown with a reddish shot effect.
Dark Green and Pale Crimson.--This is done in two baths, the first is made with 8 lb. Naphthol Green B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 3 lb. sulphuric acid, and 7 lb. copperas, working at the boil; then treat with hot water and dye in a fresh bath with 6 oz. Safranine Prima and 5 lb. acetic acid in the cold. The combined effect of the two is that of a brown shot with green.
Orange and Green.--This gives a splendid shot effect and is dyed as follows. Work for an hour at the boil, for thirty minutes in a bath of boiling water, then enter into a cold bath of 5 oz. Thioflavine T, 3 oz. Brilliant Green, and 3 lb. acetic acid; work for thirty minutes, or until shade is obtained.
Orange and Blue.--Use first dye-bath as in the last, then, after washing in hot water, dye in a bath of 2 oz. New Methylene Blue N, and 3 lb. acetic acid.
Silk, Sky Blue; Wool, Drab.--Make a dye-bath with 20 lb. acetic acid, 3/4 oz. Indigotine, 3 oz. Fast Yellow extra and 2oz. Azo Fuchsine G. Work at the boil for one hour at 100° F., then pass into a bath of 3/4 oz. Turquoise Blue B B, and 2 lb. acetic acid, working for half an hour at 80°.
Silk, Pink; Wool, Pale Blue.--Make a dye-bath with 15 lb. acetic acid and 4-1/2 oz. Indigotine. Work at the boil for an hour, then pass into a bran bath as before; next enter into a dye-bath at 80° to 90° of 3/4 oz. Brilliant Rhoduline R B, 1-1/2 oz. Auramine I I, and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Silk, Green; Wool, Dark Crimson.--The first bath is made from 3 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 1 lb. Indian Yellow G and 20 lb. acetic acid; then follows the bran and the final dye-bath, which is made from 1-1/2 oz. Imperial Green G I, and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Silk, Orange; Wool, Black.--A dye-bath is made from 2 lb. Indigotine, 2 lb. Indian Yellow G, 1/2 lb. Rhodamine G, and 20 lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash and dry.
Silk, Light Green; Wool, Dark Blue.--Make a dye-bath from 1/2 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 2 lb. Fast Light Green, and 20 lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil to shade; then lift, wash and dry.
Silk, Yellow; Wool, Terra Cotta.--A dye-bath is made from 1-1/2 oz. Indigotine, 3/4 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 9 oz. Indian Yellow R, and 20 lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash and dry.
Silk, Light Sea Green; Wool, Pale Sage.--Make the dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Fast Yellow extra, 3 oz. Azo Fuchsine G, 1-1/2 oz. Fast Green bluish, and 20 lb. acetic acid. Work as in the last recipe.
Silk, Light Green; Wool, Brown.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 2-1/2 lb. Fast Yellow extra, 1/2 lb. Fast Green bluish, and 20 lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one hour.
Silk, Pale Blue; Wool, Crimson.--Make a dye-bath with 2 lb.Azo Crimson L and 20 lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one hour, then pass into a bran bath for half an hour at 90° F., and into another bath containing 1/2 lb. Turquoise Blue G, and 2 lb. acetic acid, at 90° F., for half an hour; then wash and dry.
Silk, Light Drab; Wool, Lavender.--Make the first dye-bath from 3 oz. Indigotine, 2 oz. Azo Fuchsine G, and 20 lb. acetic acid. After working an hour at the boil, pass into a bran bath for half an hour, afterwards topping with 1-1/2 oz. Bismarck Brown R and 2 lb. acetic acid.
After loose wool, or woollen yarns or piece goods of every description have been dyed, before they can be sent out for sale they have to pass through various operations of a purifying character. There are some operations through which cloths pass that have as their object the imparting of a certain appearance and texture to them, these are generally known as finishing processes, of these it is not intended here to speak, but only of those which precede them but follow on the dyeing operations.
These processes are usually of a very simple character, and common to most colours which are dyed, and here will be noticed the appliances and manipulations necessary in the carrying out of these operations.
Squeezing or Wringing.--It is advisable when the goods are taken out of the dye-bath to squeeze or wring them according to circumstances in order to express out all surplus dye-liquor, which can be returned to the dye-bath if needful to be used again. This is an economical proceeding in many cases, especially in working with many of the old tannin materials, like sumac, divi-divi, myrobalans, and the modern direct dyes, which during the dyeing operations are not completely extracted out of the bath, or in other words the dye-bath is not exhausted of colouring matter, and therefore it can be used again for another lot of goods simply by adding fresh material to make up for that absorbed by the first lot.
Loosewool and loose cotton are somewhat difficult to deal with by squeezing or wringing, but the material may be passed through a pair of squeezing rollers such as are shown in figure 24, which will be more fully dealt with later on.
Yarns in Hanks.--In the hand-dyeing process of hank-dyeing the hanks are wrung by placing one end of the hank on a wringing-horse placed over the dye-tub, and a dye-stick in the other end of the hank, giving two or three sharp pulls to straighten out the yarn and then twisting the stick round; the twisting of the yarns puts some pressure on the fibres thoroughly and uniformly squeezing out the surplus liquor from the yarn.
Hank-Wringing Machines.--Several forms of hank-wringing machines have been devised. One machine consists of a pair of discs fitted on an axle, these discs carry strong hooks on which the hanks are placed. The operator places a hank on a pair of the hooks. The discs revolve and carry round the hank, during the revolution the hank is twisted and the surplus liquor wrung out, when the revolution of the discs carries the hank to the spot where it entered the machine, the hooks fly back to their original position, the hank unwinds, it is then removed and a new hank put in its place, and so the machine works on, hanks being put on and taken off as required. The capacity of such a machine is great and the efficiency of its working good.
Mr. S. Spencer, of Whitefield, makes a hank-wringing machine which consists of a pair of hooks placed over a vat. One of the hooks is fixed, the other is made to rotate. A hank hung between the hooks is naturally twisted and all the surplus liquor wrung out, the liquor falling into the vat.
Roller Squeezing Machines for Yarn.--Hanks may be passed through a pair of indiarubber squeezing rollers which may be so arranged that they can be fixed as required on the dye-bath.Such a pair of rollers is a familiar article and quite of common and general use in dye-houses.
Piece Goods.--These are generally passed open through a pair of squeezing rollers, which are often attached to the dye-vat in which the pieces are dyed.
Read Holliday's Yarn-squeezing Machine
Read Holiday's Squeezing Machine.--In figure 24 is shown a squeezing machine very largely employed for squeezing all kinds of piece goods after dyeing or washing. It consists of a pair of heavy rollers on which, by means of the screws shown at the top, a very considerable pressure can be brought to bear. The piece is run through the eye shown on the left, by which it is made into a rope form, then over theguiding rollers and between the squeezing rollers and into waggons for conveyance to other machines. This machine is effective.
Another plan on which roller, or rather in this case disc, squeezing machines are made is to make the bottom roller with a square groove in the centre, into this fits a disc, the cloth passing between them. The top disc can, by suitable screws, be made to press upon the cloth in the groove and thus squeeze the water out of it.
Washing.
One of the most important operations following that of dyeing is the washing with water to free the goods, whether cotton or woollen, from all traces of loose dye, acids, mordanting materials, etc., which it is not desirable should be left in, as they might interfere with the subsequent finishing operations. For this purpose a plentiful supply of good clean water is required, this should be as soft as possible, free from any suspended matter which might settle upon the dyed goods and stain or speck them.
Washing may be done by hand, as it frequently was in olden days, by simply immersing the dyed fabrics in a tub of water, shaking, then wringing out, again placing in fresh water to finish off. Or if the dye-works were on the banks of a running stream of clean water the dyed goods were simply hung in the stream to be washed in a very effectual manner.
In these days it is best to resort to washing machines adapted to deal with the various kinds of fibrous materials and fabrics, in which they can be subjected to a current of water.
Loose Wool.--If this has been dyed by hand then the washing may also be done in the same way by hand in a plain vat. If the dyeing has been done on a machine then the washing can be done on the same machine.
Hank-washing Machine
Yarnin Hanks.--A very common form of washing machine is shown in figure 25. As will be seen it consists of a wooden vat, over which are arranged a series of revolving reels on which the hanks are hung, the hanks are kept in motion through the water and so every part of the yarn is thoroughly washed. Guides keep the hanks of yarn separate and prevent any entanglement one with another. A pipe delivers constantly a current of clean water, while another pipe carries away the used water. Motion is given to the reels in this case by a donkey engine attached to the machine, but it may also be driven by a belt from the main driving shaft of the works. This machine is very effective.
Cloth-washing Machine
Piece Goods.--Piece goods are mostly washed in machines, of which two broad types may be recognised. First those where the pieces are dealt with in the form of ropes or in a twisted form, and second those where the pieces are washed while opened out full width. There are some machines in which the cloths may be treated either in the open or rope form as may be thought most desirable.
Figure 26 represents a fairly well-known machine in which thepieces are treated in a rope-like form. It consists of a trough in which a constant current of water is maintained; at one end of this trough is a square beating roller, at the other a wood lattice roller, above the square beater and out of the trough are a pair of rollers whose purpose is to draw the cloth through the machine and also partly to act as squeezing rollers. As will be seen the cloth is threaded in rope form spirally round the rollers, passing in at one end and out at the other, pegs in a guide rail serving to keep the various portions separate. The square beater in its revolutions hasa beating action on the cloth, tending to more effectual washing. The lattice roller is simply a guide roller.
Cloth-washing Machine
Figure 27 shows a washing machine very largely used in the wool-dyeing trade. The principal portion of this machine is of wood.
The internal parts consist of a large wooden bowl, or oftener, as in the machine under notice, of a pair of wooden bowls which are pressed together by springs with some small degree of force. Between these bowls the cloth is placed, more or less loosely twisted up in a rope form, and the machines are made to take four, six or eight pieces or lengths at one time, the ends of the pieces being stitched together so as to make a continuous band. A pipe running along the front of the machine conveys a constant current of clean water, which is caused to impinge in the form of jets on the pieces of cloth as they run through the machine, while an overflow carries away the used water. The goods are run in this machine as long as is considered necessary for a sufficient wash, which may take half to one and a half hours.
In figure 30 is shown a machine designed to wash pieces in the broad or open state. The machine contains a large number of guide rollers built more or less open, round which the pieces are guided, the ends of the pieces being stitched together, pipes carrying water are so arranged that jets of clean water impinge on and thoroughly wash cloth as it passes through, the construction of the guide rollers facilitating the efficient washing of the goods.
Soaping.
Sometimes yarns or cloths have to be passed through a soap-bath after being dyed in order to brighten up the colours or develop them in some way. In the case of yarnsthis can be done on the reel washing machines such as are shown in figure 25. In the case of piece goods a continuous machine in which the washing, soaping, etc., can be carried on simultaneously is often employed. Such a machine is shown in figure 28. It consists of a number of compartments fitted with guide rollers, so that the cloth passes up and down several times through the liquors in the compartment; between one compartment and another is placed a pair of squeezing rollers. The cloth is threaded in a continuous manner, well shown in the drawing, through the machine; in one compartment it is treated with water, in another with soap liquor, and another with water, and so on, and these machines may be made with two, three or more compartments, as may be necessary for the particular work in hand. As seen in the drawing the cloth passes in at one end, and out at the other finished. It is usually arranged that a continuous current of the various liquors used flows through the various compartments, thus ensuring the most perfect treatment of the cloths.
Soaping and Washing Machine
Drying.
Following on the washing comes the final operation of the dyeing process, that of drying the dyed and washed goods. Now textile fabrics of all kinds after they have passed through dye-baths, washing machines, etc., contain a large amount of water, often exceeding in amount that of the fabric itself, and to take the goods direct from the preceding operations to the drying plant means that a considerable amount of fuel must be expended to drive off this large amount of water. It is therefore very desirable that the goods be freed from as much of this water as possible before they are sent into any drying chambers, and this may be done in three ways, by wringing, squeezing and hydro-extracting. The first two methods have already been described (pp. 198, 199) and need not again be alluded to, the last needs some account.
Hydro-extractor
Hydro-extractorsare a most efficient means for extracting water out of textile fabrics. They are made in a variety of forms by several makers. Essentially they consist of a cylindrical vessel with perforated sides, so constructed that it can be revolved at a high speed. This vessel is enclosed in an outer cage. The goods are placed in the basket, as it is termed, and then this is caused to revolve; at the high speed at which it revolves centrifugal action comes into play and the water contained in the goods finds its way to the outside of the basket through the perforations and so away from the goods. Hydro-extractors are made in a variety of sizes and forms, in some the driving gear is above, in others below the basket, in some the driving is done by belt gearing, in others a steam engine is directly connected with the basket. Figures 29 and 30 show two forms which are much in use in the textile industry. They are very efficient and extract water from textile goods more completely than any other means, as will be obvious from a study of the table below.
Hydro-extractor
The relative efficiency of the three systems of extracting the moisture out of textile fabrics has been investigated by Grothe, who gives in hisAppretur der Gewebe, published in 1882, the following table showing the percentage amount of water removed in fifteen minutes:--
In the practical working of hydro-extractors it is of the utmost importance that the goods be carefully and regularly laid in the basket, not too much in one part and too little in another. Any unevenness in this respect at the speed at which they are driven leaves such a strain on the bearings as to seriously endanger the safety of the machine.
Yarn-drying Machine
After being wrung, squeezed or hydro-extracted the goods are ready to be dried. In the case of yarns this may be done in rooms heated by steam pipes placed on the floor, the hanks being hung on rods suspended from racks arranged for the purpose.
Cloth-drying Machine
Where large quantities of yarn have to be dried it is most economical to employ a yarn or drying machine, and one form of such is shown in figure 31. The appearance of the machine is that of one long room from the outside, internally it is divided into compartments, each of which is heated up by suitably arranged steam pipes, but the degree of heating ineach compartment varies, at the entrance end it is high, at the exit end low. The yarn is fed in at one end, being hung on rods, and by suitable gearing it is carried directly through the various chambers or sections, and in its passage the heat to which it is subject drives off the water it contains. The yarn requires no attention from the time it passesin wet at the one end of the machine and comes out dry at the other end. The amount of labour required is slight, only that represented by filling the sticks with wet yarn and emptying the dried yarn. The machine works regularly and well.
The drying is accomplished by circulating heated air through the yarns, this heating being effected by steam coils; fresh air continually enters the chambers while water-saturated air is as continually being taken out at the top of the chamber. One of the great secrets in all drying operations is to have a constant current of fresh hot air playing on the goods to be dried, this absorbs the moisture they contain, and the water-charged air thus produced must be taken away as quickly as possible.
Piece Goods.--The most convenient manner of drying piece goods is to employ the steam cylinder drying machine such as is shown in figure 32. This consists of a number of hollow tin or copper cylinders which can be heated by steam passing in through the axles of the cylinders, which are made hollow on purpose. The cloth to be dried passes round these cylinders, which revolve while the cloth passes. They work very effectually.
Every dyer ought to be able to make experiments in the mordanting and dyeing of textile fibres for the purpose of ascertaining the best methods of applying mordants or dye-stuffs, the best methods of obtaining any desired shade, and for the purpose of making comparative tests of dyes or mordanting materials with the object of determining their strength and value. This is not by any means difficult, nor does it involve the use of any expensive apparatus, so that a dyer need not hesitate to set up a small dyeing laboratory for fear of the expense which it might entail.
In order to carry out the work indicated above there will be required several pieces of apparatus. First a small chemical balance; one that will carry 50 grammes in each pan is quite large enough, and such a one, quite accurate enough for this work, can be bought for 25s. to 30s., while if the dyer be too poor even for this a cheap pair of apothecaries' scales might be used. It is advisable to procure a set of gramme weights and to get accustomed to them, which is not by any means difficult.
In using the balance always put the substance to be weighed on the left-hand pan and the weights on the right-hand pan. Never put chemicals of any kind direct on the pan, but weigh them in a watch-glass, small porcelain basin, or glass beaker (which has first been weighed), according to the nature of the material which is being weighed. The sets ofweights are always fitted into a block or box, and every time they are used they should be put back into their proper place.
The experimenter will find it convenient to provide himself with a few small porcelain basins, glass beakers, cubic centimetre measures, two or three 200 c.c. flasks with a mark on the neck, a few pipettes of various sizes, 10 c.c., 20 c.c., 25 c.c.
The most important feature is the dyeing apparatus. Where only a single dye test is to be made a small copper or enamelled iron saucepan, such as can be bought at any ironmongers may be used; this may conveniently be heated by a gas-boiling burner, such as can also be bought at an ironmongers or plumbers for 2s.
Experimental Dye-bath
It is, however, advisable to have means whereby several dyeing experiments can be made at one time and under precisely the same conditions, and this cannot be done by using the simple means noted above.
To be able to make perfectly comparative dyeing experiments it is best to use porcelain dye-pots (these may be bought from most dealers in chemical apparatus), and to heat these in a water-bath arrangement.
The simplest arrangement is sketched in figure 33; it consists of a copper bath measuring 15 inches long by 10-1/2 inches broadand 6-1/2 inches deep; this is covered by a lid on which are six apertures to take the porcelain dye-baths. The bath is heated by two round gas-boiling burners of the type already referred to.
The copper bath is filled with water which, on being heated to the boil by the gas burners, heat up the dye-liquors in the dye-pots. The temperature in the dye-pots under such conditions can never reach the boiling point; where it is desirable, as in some cases of wool mordanting and dyeing that it should be so high, then there should be added to the water in the copper bath a quantity of calcium chloride, which forms a solution that has a much higher boiling point than that of water, and so the dye-liquors in the dye-pots may be heated up to the boil.
An objection might be raised that with such an apparatus the temperature in every part of the bath may not be uniform, and so the temperature of the dye-liquors in the pots might vary also, and differences of temperature often have a considerable influence on the shade of the colour which is being dyed. This is a minor objection, which is more academic in its origin than of practical importance. To obviate it Mr. William Marshall, of the Rochdale Technical School, has devised a circular form of dye-bath, in which the temperature in every part can be kept quite uniform.
The dyeing laboratories of Technical Schools and Colleges are generally provided with a more elaborate set of dyeing appliances. These in the latest constructed consist of a copper bath supported on a hollow pair of trunnions, so that it can be turned over if needed. Into the bath are firmly fixed three earthenware or porcelain dye-pots; steam for heating can be sent through the trunnions. After the dyeing tests have been made the apparatus can be turned over and the contents of the dye-pots emptied into a sink which is provided for the purpose.
Manyother pieces of apparatus have been devised and made for the purpose of carrying on dyeing experiments on the small scale, but it will not be needful to describe these in detail. After all no more efficient apparatus can be desired than that described above.
Dyeing experiments can be made with either yarns or pieces of cloth, swatches as they are commonly called; a very convenient size is a small skein of yarn or a piece of cloth weighing 5 grammes. These test skeins or pieces ought to be well washed in hot water before use, so that they are clean and free from any size or grease. A little soda or soap will facilitate the cleansing process.
In carrying out a dyeing test the dye-pot should be filled with the water required, using as little as is consistent with the dye-swatch being handled comfortably therein, then there is added the required mordants, chemicals, dyes, etc., according to the character of the work which is being done.
Of such chemicals as soda, caustic soda, sodium sulphate (Glauber's salt), tartar, bichromate of potash, it will be found convenient to prepare stock solutions of known strength, say 50 grammes per litre, and then by means of a pipette any required quantity can be conveniently added. The same might be followed in the case of dyes which are constantly in use, in this case 5 grammes per litre will be found strong enough.
Supposing it is desired to make a test of a sample of Acid Red, using the following proportions, 2 per cent. dye-stuff, 3 per cent. sulphuric acid and 15 per cent. Glauber's salt, and the weight of the swatch which is being used is 5 grammes, the following calculations are to be made to give the quantities of the ingredients required:--
For the dye-stuff, 5 (weight of swatch) multiplied by 2 (per cent. of dye) and divided by 100 equals (5 x 2) / 100 = 0·1 gramme of dye.
Forthe acid we have similarly (5 x 3) / 100 = 0·15 gramme of acid.
For the Glauber's salt (5 x 15) / 100 = 0·75 gramme of Glauber's salt.
These quantities may be weighed out and added to the dye-bath, or if solutions are kept a calculation can be made as to the number of cubic centimetres which contain the above quantities, and these measured out and added to the dye-bath.
When all is ready the bath is heated up, the swatch put in and the work of the test entered upon.
Students are recommended to make experiments on such points as:--
The shades obtained by using various proportions of dye-stuffs.
The influence of various assistants: common salt, soda, Glauber's salt, borax, phosphate of soda in the bath.
The influence of varying proportions of mordants on the shade of dyeing.
The value of various assistants, tartar, oxalic acid, lactic acid, sulphuric acid, on the fixation of mordants.
The relative value of tannin matters, etc.
Each dyer should make himself a pattern book into which he should enter his tests, with full particulars as to how they have been produced at the side.
It is important that a dyer should be able to make comparative dye-tests to ascertain the relative strength of any two or more samples of dyes which may be sent to him.
This is not difficult but requires considerable care in carrying out the various operations involved.
0·5 gramme of each of the samples of dyes should be weighed out and dissolved in 100 c.c. of water, care being takenthat every portion of the dye is dissolved before any of the solution is used in making up the dye-vats. Care should be taken that the skeins of yarn or swatches of cloth are exactly equal in weight, that the same volume of water is placed in each of the dye-pots, that the same amounts of sulphate of soda or other dye assistants are added, that the quantities of dye-stuffs and solutions used are equal, in fact that in all respects the conditions of dyeing are exactly the same, such in fact being the vital conditions in making comparative dye-tests of the actual dyeing strength of several samples of dyes.
After the swatches have been dyed they are rinsed and then dried, when the depths of shade dyed on them may be compared one with another. To prevent any mistakes it is well to mark the swatches with one, two, three or more cuts as may be required.
It is easier to ascertain if two dyes are different in strength of colour than to ascertain the relative difference between them. There are two plans available for this purpose; one is a dyeing test, the other is a colorimetric test made with the solutions of the dyes.
Dyeing Test.--This method of ascertaining the relative value of two dyes as regards strength of colour is carried out as follows. A preliminary test will show which sample is stronger than the other; then there is prepared a series of dye-vats, one contains a swatch with the deepest of the two dyes, which is taken as the standard, the others with the other dye but containing 2, 5 and 10 per cent. more dye-stuff, and all these are dyed together, and after drying a comparison can be made between these and the standard swatch, and a judgment formed as to the relative strength of the two dyes; a little experience will soon enable the dyer to form a correct judgment of the difference in strength between two samples of dye-stuff.
Thecolorimetric test is based on the principle that the colour of a solution of dye-stuff is proportionate to its strength. Two white glass tubes, equal in diameter, are taken; solutions of the dye-stuffs, 0·5 gramme in 100 c.c. of water, are prepared, care being taken that the solution is complete. 5 c.c. of one of these solutions is taken and placed in one of the glass tubes, and 5 c.c. of the other solution is placed in the other glass tube, 25 c.c. of water is now added to each tube and then the colour of the diluted liquids is compared by looking through in a good light. That sample which gives the deepest solution is the strongest in colouring power. By diluting the strongest solution with water until it is of the same depth of colour as the weakest, it may be assumed that the length of the columns of liquid in the two tubes is in proportion to the relative strength of the two samples. Thus if in one tube there are 30 centimetres of liquid and in the other 25 centimetres, then the relative strength is as 30 to 25, and if the first is taken as the standard at 100 a proportion sum may be worked out as follows:--
30: 25 :: 100 : 83·3;
that is, the weakest sample has only 83·3 per cent. of the strength of the strongest sample.
It is frequently desirable that dyers should be able to ascertain with some degree of accuracy what dyes have been used to dye any particular sample of dyed cloth that has been offered to them to match. In these days of the thousand-and-one different dyes that are known it is by no means an easy thing to do, and when, as is most often the case, two or three dye-stuffs have been used in the production of a shade, the difficulty is materially increased.
The only available method is to try the effect of various acid and alkaline reagents on the sample, noting whether any change of colour occurs, and judging accordingly. It would be a good thing for dyers to accustom themselves to test the dyeings they do and so accumulate a fund of practical experience which will stand them in good stead whenever they have occasion to examine a dyed pattern of unknown origin.
The limits of this book do not permit of there being given a series of elaborate tables showing the action of various chemical reagents on fabrics dyed with various colours, and such indeed serve very little purpose, for it is most difficult to describe the minor differences which often serve to distinguish one colour from another. Instead of doing so we will point out in some detail the methods of carrying out the various tests, and advise all dyers to carry these out for themselves on samples dyed with known colours, and when they have an unknown colour to test to maketests comparatively with known colours that they think are likely to have been used in the production of the dyed fabric they are testing.
One very common method is to spot the fabric, that is to put a drop of the reagent on it, usually with the aid of the stopper of the reagent bottle, and to observe the colour changes, if any, which ensue.
This is a very useful test and should not be omitted; and it is often employed in the testing of indigo dyed goods with nitric acid, those of logwood with hydrochloric acid, alizarine with caustic soda, and many others. It is simple and easy to carry out, and only takes a few minutes.
To make a complete series of tests of dyed fabrics there should be provided the following reagents:--
1. Strong sulphuric acid as bought.2. Dilute sulphuric acid, being the strong acid diluted with 20 times its volume of water.3. Concentrated hydrochloric acid as bought.4. Dilute hydrochloric acid, 1 acid to 20 water.5. Concentrated nitric acid as bought.6. Dilute nitric acid, 1 acid to 20 water.7. Acetic acid.8. Caustic soda solution, 5 grammes in 100 c.c. water.9. Ammonia (strong).10. Dilute ammonia, 1 strong ammonia to 10 water.11. Carbonate of soda solution, 5 grammes in 100 c.c. water.12. Bleaching powder solution, 2° Tw.13. Bisulphite of soda, 72° Tw.14. Stannous chloride, 10 grammes crystals in 100 c.c. water, with a little hydrochloric acid.15. Methylated spirit.
Small swatches of the dyed goods are put in clean porcelain basins, and some of these solutions poured over them. Anychange of colour of the fabric is noted as well as whether any colour is imparted to the solutions. After making observations of the effects in the cold, the liquids may be warmed, and the results again noted. After being treated with the acids the swatches should be well washed with water, when the original colour may be wholly or partially restored.
To give tables showing the effects of these reagents on the numerous dyes now known would take up too much room and not serve a very useful purpose, as such tables if too much relied on leave the operator somewhat uncertain as to what he has before him. The reader will find in Hurst'sDictionary of Coal-Tar Colourssome useful notes as to the action of acids and alkalies on the various colours that may be of service to him.
Alizarine and the series of dye-stuffs to which it has given its name, fustic, cochineal, logwood and other dyes of a similar class, require the fabric to be mordanted, and the presence of such mordant is occasionally an indirect proof of the presence of these dyes.
To detect these mordants a piece of the swatch should be burnt in a porcelain or platinum crucible over a bunsen burner, care being taken that all carbonaceous matter be burnt off. A white ash will indicate the presence of alumina mordants, red ash that of iron mordants, and a greenish ash chrome mordants.
To confirm these the following chemical tests may be applied. Boil the ash left in the crucible with a little strong hydrochloric acid and dilute with water. Pass a current of sulphuretted hydrogen gas through the solution, if there be any tin present a brown precipitate of tin sulphide will be obtained. This can be filtered off. The filtrate is boiled for a short time with nitric acid, and ammonia is added to the solution when alumina is thrown down as a white, gelatinous precipitate,iron is thrown down as a brown red, bulky precipitate, while chrome is thrown down as a greyish-looking, gelatinous precipitate. The precipitate obtained with the ammonia is filtered off and a drop of ammonium sulphide added, when any zinc present will be thrown down as white precipitate of zinc sulphide; to the filtrate from this ammonium oxalate may be added, when if lime is present a white precipitate of calcium oxalate is obtained.
A test for iron is to dissolve some of the ash in a little hydrochloric acid and add a few drops of potassium ferrocyanide solution, when if any iron be present a blue precipitate will be obtained.
To make more certain of the presence of chrome, heat a little of the ash of the cloth with caustic soda and chlorate of soda in a porcelain crucible until well fused, then dissolve in water, acidify with acetic acid and add lead acetate, a yellow precipitate indicates the presence of chrome.
A book on qualitative chemical analysis should be referred to for further details and tests for metallic mordants.
The fastness of colours to light, air, rubbing, washing, soaping, acids and alkalies is a feature of some considerable importance, there are indeed few colours that will resist all these influences, and such are fully entitled to be called fast. The degree of fastness varies very considerably, some colours will resist acids and alkalies well, but are not fast to light and air; some will resist washing and soaping, but are not fast to acids; some may be fast to light, but are not so to washing. The following notes will show how to test these features.
Fastness to Light and Air.--This is simply tested by hanging a piece of the dyed cloth in the air, keeping a piece in a drawer to refer to, so that the influence on the original colour can be noted from time to time. If the piece is left out in the open one gets not only the effect of light but also thatof climate on the colour, and there is no doubt rain, hail and snow have some influence on the fading of the colour. If the piece is exposed under glass the climatic influences do not come into play, and one gets the effect of light alone.
In making tests of fastness the dyer will and does pay due regard to the character of the influences that the material will be subjected to in actual use, and these vary very considerably; thus the colour of underclothing need not be fast to light, for it is rarely subjected to that agent of destruction; on the other hand, it must be fast to washing, for that is an operation to which underclothing is subjected week by week.
Window curtains are much exposed to light and air, and, therefore, the colours in which they are dyed should be fast to light and air. On the other hand, these curtains are rarely washed, and so the colour need not be quite fast to washing. And so with other kinds of fabrics; there are scarcely two kinds which are subjected to the same influences and require the colours to have the same degree of fastness.
The fastness to rubbing is generally tested by rubbing the dyed cloth with a piece of white paper.
Fastness to Washing.--This is generally tested by boiling a swatch of the cloth in a solution of soap containing 4 grammes of a good neutral curd soap per litre for ten minutes, and noting the effect whether the soap solution becomes coloured and to what degree, or whether it remains colourless, and also whether the colour of the swatch has changed at all.
One very important point in connection with the soaping tests is whether a colour will run into a white fabric that may be soaped along with it. This is tested by twisting strands of the dyed yarn or cloth with white yarn or cloth and boiling them in the soap liquor for ten minutes and then noting theeffect, particularly observing whether the white pieces have taken up any colour.
Fastness to acids and fastness to alkalies is observed while carrying out the various acid and alkali tests given above.
A.