Blue Black on Wool.--Dye as in the last recipe, but use AcidBlack S. This dye-stuff produces bluer shades of black than either B or B B, and they are faster to soaping.
Jet Black on Wool.--Make the dye-bath with 4-1/2 lb. Acid Black S, 1/2 lb. Fast Yellow F Y, 3 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. This shows how, by the addition of a little yellow dye-stuff, the blue shade may be changed to a full jet black.
Blue Black on Wool.--The dye-bath is made with 4-1/2 lb. Naphthol Black B (or 6 lb. Naphthol Black 3 B), 4 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and dry. The Naphthol Blacks have long been used in wool dyeing, and give excellent results, the 3 B brand dyeing much bluer shades than the B brand. There is also a 4 R brand giving violet blacks. These blacks are quite fast to acids and alkalies, are fast to light, and resist washing very well, the B brand being the fastest. The following recipe shows how a full jet shade can be obtained for these blacks:--
Jet Black on Wool.--Prepare the dye-bath with 4-1/2 lb, Naphthol Black B, 1 lb. Naphthol Green B, 1/4 lb. Indian Yellow, 4 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.
Blue Black on Wool.--Make the dye-bath with 5Â lb. Anthracite Black B, 10Â lb. Glauber's salt, and 5Â lb. bisulphate of soda, working at the boil for one hour. Anthracite Black does not require a bath so acid as do some other coal-tar blacks. The shade obtained is a full blue black, which is fast to acids; alkalies turn it a little bluer, and soaping causes some loss of colour.
Violet Black on Wool.--Make the dye-bath with 5 lb. Anthracite Black R, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. The black thus obtained is a good one, fairly fast to acids, alkalies and soaping.
Dead Black on Wool.--Make the dye-bath with 6 lb. Anthracite Black R, 1 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, and 10 lb. bisulphateof soda. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and work again at the boil for twenty minutes. This black is a very fine one, and is very fast.
Violet Black on Wool.--Make the dye-bath with 4 lb. Naphthylamine Black D, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. acetic acid. This black is pretty fast to acids, alkalies and light, but is somewhat loose to soaping, and, therefore, cannot be used for black goods that have to be strongly milled. Naphthylamine Black 4 B dyes somewhat bluer shades than the B brand.
Blue Black on Wool.--Prepare the dye-bath with 6Â lb. Victoria Blue Black, 20Â lb. Glauber's salt, and 1-1/2Â lb. acetic acid, working at the boil for one hour. A fine blue black, is obtained which is quite fast to acids, washing and light.
Greenish Black on Wool.--The dye-bath is made with 3Â lb. Victoria Black Blue, 2Â lb. Fast Yellow F Y, 20Â lb. Glauber's, salt, and 1/1-2Â lb. acetic acid. The dyeing is done at the boil and takes about an hour. This shade has a good full tone, and is fast.
Jet Black on Wool.--Make the dye-bath with 4 lb. Victoria Black B, 1/2 lb. Fast Yellow F Y, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour. A very fine shade is thus obtained, which is fast to acids, alkalies and soaping. By omitting the Fast Yellow a blue black is obtained, while by using Acid Green instead a greener tone is given to the black. In place of the Victoria Black B the two other brands, 5 G, and G, of these blacks may be used. These give equally fast blacks of a deeper and more jet black.
Black on Wool.--Prepare a bath with 5 lb. acetic acid, 9° Tw.; enter the wool for one hour, then lift and add 5lb. Naphthol Black 3 B, and 1/4 lb. Indian Yellow. Re-enter the goods and boil for one hour, wash and dry.
Many of the black dyes--Naphthol Black, Naphthylamine Blacks,Naphthyl Blue Black N, Acid Black B, etc.--are capable of slowly dyeing wool from neutral baths, that is, containing only Glauber's salt, or rather more quickly if a little acetic acid be present. Such dyes are very useful for dyeing heavily milled or felted fabrics, such as hat bodies for instance, as then the dye possesses greater penetrative properties and passes more into the substance of the fabric, which is, therefore, better dyed through. Also they are suitable for dyeing half-wool fabrics as will be seen on referring to the chapter dealing with the dyeing of union or cotton-wool fabrics.
It is quite possible to dye a black on wool by using a combination of acid and azo dye-stuffs, and below is given a recipe illustrating this method; it is one, however, rarely adopted.
Blue-Black on Wool.--Prepare the dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. Patent Blue, 6 oz. Brilliant Orange, 4 oz. Amaranth, 4 oz. Acid Violet N, 4 lb. sulphuric acid. Enter the goods at about 150° F., raise to the boil and work to shade; lift, wash and dry. It may be of interest to note that by using a mixture of Azo Rubine and Acid green good blacks can be got.
There is a range of Acid and Azo dyes which are capable of dyeing from the usual acid baths on to wool, and yet can be developed and fixed on the fibre to good, full blacks. Types of such dyes are Anthracene Chrome Black F F, Diamond Black F, Chrome Patent Black D G and D G G, Fast Chrome Black, etc. Generally the blacks dyed on wool with these dyes are very fine, have a full, bloomy appearance, and are very fast. They are much used in dyeing hat bodies and fine cloths which have to be very fast to the weather.
The method of application will be gleaned from the recipes given below.
Black.--Preparea dye-bath with 5 lb. Chromotrop S, 1/4 lb. Azo Yellow, 50 lb. Glauber's salt. Work for one and a half hours at the boil, then add 4 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil for another half hour, then lift. Add to the same dye-bath 3 lb. bichromate of potash. Re-enter the goods and work at the boil for half an hour, then lift, rinse and dry.
Jet Black.--Mordant the wool by boiling for one hour in a bath made from 4 lb. bichromate of potash and 3 lb. of tartar. Then rinse, and dye in a bath containing 3-1/2 lb. Diamond Black, 1-1/4 lb. Alizarine Cyanine R R R double, and 1 lb. Gambine Yellow, working at the boil for from one to one and a half hours.
Diamond Black on Wool.--Mordant by boiling for one hour with 3 lb. bichromate of potash, 1 lb. oxalic acid. Wash and dry in a bath made with 2 lb. Diamond Black, 2 lb. acetic acid. Work at 120° F. for one hour, then heat to boil, and work until the dye is fully fixed. Lift, wash and dry.
A more common method of using the Diamond Black is given in the following recipe.
Diamond Black.--Prepare a dye-bath with 10Â lb. Glauber's salt, 2-1/2Â lb. Diamond Black, 1/2Â lb. Diamond Green. Boil for an hour, then pass through a fresh bath of 2Â lb. bichromate of potash for three-quarters of an hour at the boil; wash and dry.
This gives a fine jet shade of black, quite fast to a strong milling, and to light, alkalies and acids. Diamond Black by itself gives bluish shades. This dye is much used in the hat-dyeing trade.
Violet Black.--Mordant the wool by boiling for one and a half hours in a bath made with 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and 1 lb. oxalic acid, then rinse and dye in a bath containing 25 lb. Alizarine Cyanine Black G, 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, and 1 lb. acetic acid, working at the boil for one and a half hours. Afine full shade is obtained which is quite fast to acids, milling and light.
Brown Black.--Mordant the wool as in the last recipe, then dye in a new bath 25 lb. Alizarine Cyanine Black G, 3 lb. Anthracene Brown, 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, and 1 lb. acetic acid, working at the boil for one to one and a half hours.
Jet Black.--Mordant as in either of the above recipes, then dye in a bath containing 20 lb. Alizarine Black S W, and 2 lb. acetic acid. This black possesses a great degree of resistance to acid, alkali, milling and light, and is one of the best blacks at the disposal of the dyer.
Reddish Black on Wool.--Prepare the dye-bath containing 5 lb. Chromotrop 2 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 4 lb. sulphuric acid, work at the boil for one hour, then lift. Add to the same bath 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. sulphuric acid, and work half an hour longer.
Blue Black.--Make the dye-bath with 6Â lb. Chromotrop 10Â B and 4Â lb. sulphuric acid; dye, and develop the black by adding to the same bath 3Â lb. bichromate of potash and 1Â lb. sulphuric acid.
Jet Black.--Prepare the dye-bath with 5-1/2 lb. Chromotrop S, 1/4 lb. Alizarine Yellow G G W, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 4 lb. sulphuric acid. Slowly raise to the boil and work for one hour, then add to the same dye-bath 3 lb. bichromate of potash, and 1 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour.
These are but a few examples of how the Chromotrops (one of the most interesting series of dye-stuffs at the service of the dyer) may be used to dye blacks. They of themselves dye brilliant reds, from bright scarlet (2Â R), crimson (6Â B), and purple (8Â B and 10Â B), to maroon and clarets (S and SÂ B). These being turned black on being chromed, give various shades--blue blacks, violet blacks, and jet blacks, which have the merit of being fast to acids, strong milling, and light in a greatdegree. The blue and violet blacks may be converted to jet shades by adding to the dye-bath some yellow dye-stuff, such as Azo Yellow, Alizarine Yellow, or Gambine Yellow, which will resist the action of the bichrome in the developing bath.
Chromotrop blacks while so very fast have the disadvantage of being expensive, but by combining them with logwood it is possible to obtain blacks that have a great degree of resistance to light, acids and milling. They are in this respect much superior to pure logwood blacks, while the cost is not prohibitive.
The following recipe will serve as an example of how these two dye-stuffs may be combined:--
Jet Black.--Make a bath with 2 lb. Chromotrop S, 15 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. hydrochloric acid. Work in this bath for one hour, then add 2-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash, and work again for half an hour, at the boil. Lift, rinse and dye in a new bath containing 25 lb. logwood, 1 lb. fustic extract and 1/4 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for an hour.
Violet Black on Wool.--Dye the wool in the Chromotrop bath, and develop as in the last recipe. The final dye-bath is made with 6 lb. logwood, 8 oz. Patent Blue B, and 4 lb. sulphuric acid. By using logwood alone blue blacks can be dyed, by increasing the proportion of fustic a greener tone can be obtained, while by the use of a larger proportion of Chromotrop a redder tone of black is the result.
Jet Black.--Make the dye-bath with 20Â lb. Glauber's salt, and 6Â lb. Nyanza Black; when obtained is a good one and of solid appearance. Alkalies turn it red, but it is fast to dilute acid and soaping.
Black.--Prepare the dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 5 lb. oxalate of ammonia, 5 lb. acetic acid and 6 lb. Anthracene Chrome Black F. Work at the boil for three-quarters ofan hour, or until the bath is exhausted of dye-stuff, then add 1-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. hydrochloric acid to the same bath and work for half an hour longer.
The Anthracene Chrome Blacks, of which there are three brands, F, 5 B and F E, are excellent dyes, producing very fine blacks, and owing to the slowness of dyeing and great penetrative properties are very suitable for dyeing hat felts and other closely woven fabrics. The 5 B dyes more bluish shades than the F, while the F E brand gives full black. By combining these with Anthracene Yellow B N, Anthracene Acid Brown G, or other similar dyes, jet blacks can be got as per the following recipe:--
Jet Black.--Make the dye-bath with 6 lb. Anthracene Chrome Black F E, 5 oz. Anthracene Yellow B N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. oxalate of ammonia and 5 lb. acetic acid, after dyeing, and the dye-bath, is exhausted of colour, add 1-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash and 3 lb. hydrochloric acid, and boil again for half an hour. Finish in the usual way.
One of the reasons for adding the oxalate of ammonia, is to precipitate out any lime which may be in the water in such a form that it will not react with the dye-stuff.
Fast Black.--Mordant the yarn with copperas (sulphate of iron). Dye in a bath with 5 lb. Gambine Y, 2 lb. Acid Mauve, 2 lb. bisulphate of soda. Proceed as described for full green.
Blue Black--3-1/2 lb. Naphthylamine Black S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. acetic acid; to fully exhaust the dye-bath add 8 lb. bisulphate of soda.
Jet Black.--5 lb. Naphthylamine Black S, 1/4 lb. Fast Acid Green B N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. acetic acid, adding 8 lb. bisulphate of soda to exhaust the bath.
Blue Black.--Give a deep blue bottom in the indigo vat and dye with 2 lb. Anthracite Black B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Greys on Wool.--The dyeing of greys follows very naturally afterthe dyeing of blacks, for from a broad point of view greys are simply light blacks, and any dye-stuffs that will dye black will if used in smaller proportions give greys. There is a great variety of tone among greys: reddish greys, bluish greys, greenish greys, and so on. They may be dyed in a considerable variety of ways from a large number of dye-stuffs, both natural and artificial. Of these two classes the latter gives the best result as far as regards brightness of tone, and as regards other properties the greys obtained from the artificial coal-tar colours are fully equal to those from natural dyes.
A large number of recipes are in use by dyers for the production of greys, so many that it becomes almost an impossibility to do more than give a mere fraction of them here. However, a number of representative recipes will be given, covering all classes of dye-stuffs capable of being used for the purpose, and thus forming a guide to the methods of dyeing and the proportions of dye-stuffs to be used.
Light Grey.--Dye at the boil for three-quarters of an hour, in a bath containing 1Â lb. perchloride of tin, 3Â lb. alum, 3Â oz. indigo extract, and 2Â oz. cochineal.
Slate Grey.--Mordant by boiling with 4Â lb. alum and 1Â lb. argol, then dye with 6Â lb. logwood, 6Â oz. cudbear and 3Â oz. indigo extract.
Slate Grey.--Another method is to boil the wool with 10 lb. logwood, 2Â lb. Glauber's salt and 1Â lb. sulphuric acid for three-quarters of an hour, then lift, add 1Â lb. copperas, and re-enter the wool, working at the boil for three-quarters of an hour, then lift, wash and dry.
Reddish Grey.--Boil for an hour with 10Â lb. fustic, 11Â lb. cutch, 1/2Â lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2Â lb. copperas.
Pearl Grey.--Give a light blue ground in the indigo vat, then dye in a new bath with 2Â lb. muriate of tin and 3/4Â lb. cochineal, working at the boil to shade.
SilverGrey.--Prepare a bath with 3/4Â lb. tannic acid; work for an hour in a warm bath, then sadden with 3Â lb. nitrate of iron to shade, then lift, wash and dry.
Pearl Grey.--Prepare a bath with 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and 4 lb. Alizarine Bordeaux B. Enter into the bath when cold, then heat to the boil and work for one and a half hours, then lift, wash and dry.
Silver Grey.--The dye-bath is made with 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and 6-1/2 oz. Alizarine Cyanine G G, the dyeing being done as in the last recipe.
Greenish Grey.--A good shade is dyed with 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, 4 oz. Alizarine Bordeaux B, and 4 oz. Diamond Flavine G, working as given in the above recipe.
Grey.--Give a pale blue bottom with an indigo vat, then dye in a bath containing 1 lb. fluoride of chrome, 1/2 oz. Diamine Fast Red F, and 3/4 oz. Anthracene Yellow C; work at the boil for one hour, lift, wash, and dry.
Dark Grey.--A very fine dark grey, almost approaching a black is obtained by the following plan: bottom the wool with a medium blue by means of the indigo vat, dye in a bath containing 1 lb. fluoride of chrome, 3 oz. Diamine Fast Red F, and 3 oz. Anthracene Yellow C.
Slate Grey.--A good slate grey of a slightly greenish tone can be dyed in a bath of 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, 3/4 lb. Acid Blue 4 S, and 1/4 lb. Titan Brown R, working at the boil to shade.
Pale Slate Grey.--The dyeing is done in a bath made with 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, 5 oz. Acid Blue 4 S, and 1-1/2 oz. Titan Brown R, working at the boil for one hour.
Silver Grey.--A very nice shade is dyed with 3 oz. Acid Blue 4 S, 1/4 oz. Titan Red, and 5 oz. acetate of ammonia.
Silver Grey.--A shade similar to the last is dyed in a bath containing 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 5 lb. bisulphate of soda, and 3/4 oz. Anthracite Black R. By adding a little Thiocarmine Rthe shade can be turned bluer in tone, while the addition of a little Milling Yellow O, or Titan Yellow, turns it to the green side.
Pearl Grey.--Make the dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 5 lb. acetic acid, and 3/4 lb. Naphthylamine Black D. This gives fine shades of pearl grey.
Bluish Grey.--Mordant the wool by boiling in a bath made with 2 lb. bichromate of potash, 1 lb. tartar, and 1 lb. sulphuric acid. Dye in a bath containing 2 oz. Diamine Black (or 3/4 oz. Diamond Black and 1-1/2 oz. Alizarine Cyanine R), working at the boil for an hour and a half.
Grey.--This can be dyed with 3 oz. Nyanza Black B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil.
Reddish Grey.--A good full shade is dyed with 1-1/2 oz. Cyanole extra, 1/4 oz. Orange extra, 3/4 oz. Archil Substitute N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.
Slate Grey.--The dye-bath is made with 3 oz. Cyanole extra, 1/2 oz. Archil Substitute N, 3/4 oz. Orange extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Bright Pearl Grey.--Prepare a dye-bath with 3/4 oz. Patent Blue, 1/2 oz. Acid Violet N, 3/4 oz. Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Stone Grey on Wool.--The dye-bath is made with 1/2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 3/4 oz. Cyanole extra, 1-1/2 oz. Fast Acid Blue R, 3/4 oz. Acid Yellow, 20 lb. Glauber's salt, 3 lb. acetic acid. Enter at 80° F., then warm slowly and work to shade, lift, wash and dry.
These recipes will probably be sufficient to show the lines on which greys may be obtained in wool dyeing. It may be added that from the Acid Blacks B, B B, and S, good greys of a violet tone may be obtained, using from 1/2 to 3/4 oz. dye-stuff. The Naphthol Blacks will also be found useful in the same way, while the greys from Anthracene Chrome Blacks and the Alizarine blacks are very good and fast.
RedShades on Wool.--The number of red shades that may be dyed on wool is infinite. They range over every variety of tint of red, from the palest blush-rose to the deepest crimson, and from the most brilliant pink to the dullest grenat shade.
It is quite impossible here to describe the dyeing of every imaginable shade of red, while the great variety of red dye-stuffs, both natural and artificial, adds to the difficulty of dealing in the space at command with all the various methods and dyes that may be used in the dyeing of reds on wool.
The methods that may be adopted for dyeing red shades on wool are many and various, depending not only on the particular dye-stuff used, but often on the particular shade that is being dyed. One method, which will yield a pale and useful tint with a particular dye-stuff, would fail if a full shade were necessary.
The greater number of red shades are now dyed by means of the artificial dye-stuffs, as these are much easier to dye than are the natural dyes, and they give, on the whole, more even and brilliant shades, while as regards fastness to milling, acids, and light they are fully equal, and in most cases superior, to the natural dyes.
The Direct Red Dyes.--Of this group of red dye-stuffs, Benzopurpurine, Titan Scarlet, Diamine Fast Red F, and Benzo Fast Red are types; many of them have been found to be very serviceable in wool dyeing. They may be dyed either from plain baths containing common salt or Glauber's salt, or from baths containing common salt or Glauber's salt and a little acetic acid.
Alkaline or soap baths do not work well as a rule, and must be avoided in wool dyeing. Generally the dye-bath is exhausted of colour, and full shades are easily obtained, while these reds are in general remarkable for the evenness anduniformity of tint which can be produced. The reds so dyed are, on the whole, fairly fast to soaping, and can be used for dyeing goods that have to be milled, while their resistance to light and air is fairly good. Benzopurpurine and Diamine Red are more or less affected by acids, but the Titan Red and some of the more modern reds, Diamine Brilliant Scarlet, Benzo Fast Scarlets, are all fast to acids. The fastness to washing and light of some of them, Benzo Fast Red, Diamine Fast Red F, Titan Red, is much increased by adding, after the wool has been dyed, 3 per cent. of fluoride of chromium to the dye-bath, and working a little longer.
The dyeing with these colours is done at the boil, and the goods may be entered direct into the boiling bath without fear of uneven shades being produced. This bath may be kept as a standing one, simply adding as each lot is dyed the necessary quantity of dye-stuff, a little fresh water to bring the bath up to its original volume, and a corresponding quantity of the salt originally added. The wool can then be entered and dyed.
In place of using salt or Glauber's salt, acetate of ammonia is an excellent assistant for this class of dyes.
The following are some recipes for dyeing various shades of red on wool with this class of dyes.
Scarlet.--The dye-bath is made with 3 lb. Titan Scarlet C B, and 10 lb. acetate of ammonia. This gives a good bright shade of scarlet, which is fast to acids and soaping, although not fast to light.
Scarlet.--Dye in a bath made with 3 lb. Diamine Scarlet B and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. This yields a light shade, not so fast to acids as the last, but equally fast to soaping and light.
Scarlet.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Benzopurpurine 4 B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. This also gives a good shade of Scarlet fast to soaping. It is turned dark blue by acids, and isnot fast to light. It is very largely used on underwear goods, but is not so satisfactory for this as the Titan Scarlet C B, or Benzo Fast Scarlet B S.
Scarlet.--The dye-bath may be made with 3 lb. Brilliant Congo G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. acetate of ammonia. This gives a satisfactory shade of scarlet.
Bright Scarlet.--The dye-bath prepared with 2 lb. Geranine G, 5 lb. sulphate of soda, 5 lb. acetate of ammonia. Work at the boil for one hour, then wash and dry.
Dark Crimson.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1-1/2 lb. Chrysophenine, 1-1/2 lb. Hessian Violet, 25 lb. salt. Heat to 150° F., enter the goods, heat to boil and dye boiling for one hour, take out, rinse and wash.
Scarlet.--A brilliant shade of scarlet can be dyed in a bath of 3Â lb. Benzo Fast Red, 1Â lb. Chrysophenine, 10Â lb. Glauber's salt and 2Â lb. acetic acid.
Fast Red.--Dye the wool in a bath boiling, containing 1 lb. Diamine Fast Red F, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. acetic acid, until the bath is exhausted, then add 3 lb. fluoride of Chrome and work half an hour longer at the boil.
Bordeaux.--Dye with 3Â lb. Diamine Bordeaux, and 10Â lb. Glauber's salt.
Pink.--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine Rose B D, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 1 lb. acetic acid.
The basic red dyes are not very numerous, and comprise Magenta, Saffranine, Acridine Reds, Acridine Scarlets, Rhoduline Reds, Rhodamine and Neutral Beds. For successful dyeing they require a perfectly neutral bath. This bath should contain 10 per cent. of Glauber's salt, and is started cold and not too strong; when all the material has been entered the steam may be turned on and the temperature slowly raised, the material being turned over and over. The operation is continued only until the bath has been exhausted of colour, when it is stopped, and the wool taken out, and washedand dried. The liquor in the dye-baths may be allowed to cool down, and then it may be used for making the dye-bath for a second lot of goods, or it may be run away. It is best not to add the dye to the bath all at once, but in several portions as the work proceeds. The affinity of the wool for the basic dyes is usually so strong that if all were added to the dye-bath at the start, then the first portion of the goods entered might take up all, or nearly all, the colour, leaving but little for the last portion; the consequence being that the goods are dyed of an uneven colour, deeper in some parts than others. This defect is remedied by adding the dye in portions, entering the goods rather quickly, working cold, or by adding a little acetic acid and plenty of Glauber's salt. Notwithstanding all these precautions it is quite possible for the shades to come up somewhat uneven. These remarks are applicable not only to the basic reds but to the whole range of basic dyes, hence this class of dye-stuffs is but little used in the dyeing of wool.
Crimson.--Make the dye-bath with 2Â lb. Magenta, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt, working as described above. This gives a fine crimson shade which, however, is not fast to soaping or to light. The quantity of dye-stuff given above should not be exceeded or the shades may come up bronzy, this may be avoided if a trace of acetic acid is added to the dye-bath.
Crimson.--Dye with 2-1/2Â lb. of Saffranine and 15Â lb. Glauber's salt. This dyes a fine Crimson shade.
Deep Red.--Use 3Â lb. Rhoduline Red and 10Â lb. Glauber's salt.
Scarlet.--The dye-bath is made with 1 lb. Saffranine Prima, 1 lb. Auramine, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. The goods are entered into the dye-bath at about 120° F., and well worked about, then the temperature is raised slowly. When the dye-bath is exhausted the goods are lifted, washed and dried. There are no pure basic scarlets, and the above and similar combinationsof a basic red and a basic yellow are the only ways in which a scarlet can be dyed on wool with basic coal-tar colours.
The basic colours are, in general, the hydrochlorides of some colour base, and in the process of dyeing the acid constituent of the wool fibre unites with the colour base, while the hydrochloric acid which is liberated passes into the dye-bath.
The acid reds are a very large group of red dyes, of somewhat varied chemical composition, which all have the property of dyeing from baths containing Glauber's salt and sulphuric acid or acetic acid, the usual proportions being 10 per cent. of the former, and 2 to 5 per cent. of the acid. Some are best dyed from a bath containing bisulphate of soda. The dyeing should be started cold, or at a lukewarm heat, then steam should be turned on and the temperature raised to the boil, at which it is maintained for an hour; this boiling serving to more intimately fix the dye-stuff on the woollen fibre.
The Eosine reds, of which Eosine in its various brands, Rose Bengale, Phloxine, Saffrosine and Erythrosine, are examples, are best dyed upon wool from a bath containing Glauber's salt and a little acetic acid. They do not require a very acid bath, hence the reason of using acetic acid. The method of dyeing is that given above as for basic reds, namely, enter into cold, or at most lukewarm bath, and raise the heat slowly, continuing the work until the shade required has been obtained. It is a good plan to start work in a neutral bath, and then when the material has become thoroughly impregnated with the dye-liquor to add the acetic acid. The shades obtained from these Eosine reds are remarkable for their brilliance, but unfortunately their fastness to light, washing, etc., is but slight, although it may be increased by treating the dyed wool in a bath of alum or acetate of lead.
Someof the acid reds,e.g., Acid Magenta, Acid Violet, belong to the group of sulphonated basic dyes. The vast majority belong to the group of azo dyes, which can be employed to dye from palest pinks to the deepest crimson reds. Some dye very brilliant shades, others only yield dull reds. Some dye shades remarkable for their fastness to all agencies, soap, acids, alkalies, light and air; others dye shades which may be fast to soap, but loose to acids and light. Generally even shades are readily obtained on any kind of woollen fabric. It is practically impossible to name all the acid reds that are known and that may be used, but a fairly representative series of recipes will be given.
Ponceau.--Wet out, then prepare a bath with 2 lb. Ponceau R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Enter the wool in the cold, bring to a boil and work to shade, wash and dry.
Crushed Strawberry.--Prepare a bath containing 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 4 oz. Scarlet R S, 9 oz. Indigo extract, 2 oz. Orange Y, 4 oz. sulphuric acid. Enter wool at 160° F., give four turns, raise temperature slowly to a boil, and turn to shade, lift and wash.
Scarlet.--Prepare a dye-bath with 2Â lb. Azo cochineal, 10Â lb. Glauber's salt, 4Â lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil until the full shade is obtained, then lift, wash and dry.
Terra Cotta Red.--The dye-bath is made from 2-1/2 lb. Fast Acid Magenta B, 2-1/2 lb. Fast Yellow F Y, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil to shade.
Fast Scarlet.--Prepare a dye-bath with 3Â lb. Glauber's salt, 1-1/4Â lb. sulphuric acid, 2-1/2Â lb. Brilliant Scarlet 4Â R. Work at the boil for one and a half hours.
Scarlet.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Scarlet 2 R J, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. The goods may be entered at about 150° F., and the temperature raised at the boil and maintained at that heat for one hour, then the goods are lifted, rinsed and dried.
Themethod given in the above recipes is that usually followed with the acid colours. When closely woven or thick goods are being dyed, where it is desired that the colour should penetrate well into the substance of the goods, the following modification of working may be adopted:--
The dye-bath is made up with the dye-stuff and Glauber's salt only, and the goods are worked in this at the boil until they are thoroughly impregnated with the dye-stuff liquor, then the acid is added in small quantities at a time, and the dyeing is continued for one hour to fix the colouring matter on the wool fibre. The goods may then be lifted out, washed and dried.
Scarlet.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Scarlet F R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. In place of scarlet F R, the F 2 R or F 3 R brands may be used, the latter giving the reddest shades.
Scarlet.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Scarlet O O, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Scarlet O dyes a yellower shade of scarlet, while scarlets O O and O O O dye slightly redder shades.
Scarlet.--The dye-bath is made with 3 lb. Brilliant Ponceau 2 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. This gives a brilliant shade of scarlet. Brilliant Ponceau G, used in the same way, gives a much yellower tone of scarlet, the R gives a slightly yellower tone, while the 3 and 4 R brands dye redder shades.
Bluish Red.--The dye-bath is made with 2 lb. Brilliant Croceine B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Brilliant croceine B B and the brand M dye redder shades of scarlet.
Red.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Milling Red R, 20 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. acetic acid. This is a good bright shade, and is quite fast to soaping and milling.
Deep Scarlet.--Dye with 3 lb. Chromotrop R, 10 lb. Glauber'ssalt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. This scarlet is very fast to milling, acid and light.
Red.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Victoria Scarlet R, 1 lb. Victoria Rubine O, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 4 lb. sulphuric acid. A fine deep scarlet red is obtained.
Scarlet.--Dye with 2 lb. Brilliant Orseille C, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a bright bluish shade of scarlet.
Red.--Dye with 1Â lb. Emin Red and 5Â lb. bisulphate of soda.
Scarlet.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Croceine Scarlet 3 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Fawn Red.--Make the dye-bath with 1-1/2 oz. Cyanole, 1-1/2 oz. Orange extra, 2-1/2 oz. Archil Substitute N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a nice light tint of fawn red, of a somewhat bluish tone.
Deep Fawn Red.--A very deep shade of fawn red is dyed with 4-1/2 oz. Cyanole, 2-1/4 lb. Orange extra, 1-1/4 lb. Archil Substitute N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. The same dye-stuffs are used as in the last, but the result is a deeper shade, of a yellow tone.
Crushed Strawberry Red.--Use 4 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 2 oz. Cyanine B, 1 oz. Azo yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Pale Lilac Rose.--Dye with 1 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 1/2 oz. Cyanine B, 1/2 oz. Azo yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Deep Fawn.--Dye with 3-1/4 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 1-1/2 oz. Orange G, 2 oz. Cyanine B, 4 oz. Fast Acid Blue R, 10 lb. acetic acid, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.
Crimson.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Titan Red 6 B, 20 lb. salt, with a little acetic acid, and work at the boil. This gives a fine shade of crimson, fast to acids and capable of standing milling very well.
DeepCrimson.--A bright and deep crimson is dyed with 4 lb. Fast Acid Magenta B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil.
Pale Crimson.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Fast Acid Magenta B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil. Level shades are readily obtained, and the dye is fast to washing.
Deep Crimson.--Make the dye-bath with 4 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a very deep shade of crimson, of a bluish tone.
Bluish Crimson.--Use in the dye-bath 2 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Pale Bluish Crimson.--Use in the dye-bath 1 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a very bright shade of pale crimson. The B brand of the Azo Fuchsines gives slightly bluer shades than the above.
Deep Crimson.--A very solid crimson is dyed in a bath containing 3 lb. Azo Red A, 2 oz. Orange extra, 2 oz. Cyanole extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil.
Bright Crimson.--A fine bluish crimson can be dyed on wool with 4 lb. Azo Red A, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Work at the boil.
Deep Crimson.--A good shade can be dyed with 6Â lb. Amaranth, 10Â lb. Glauber's salt, and 10Â lb. bisulphate of soda, working at the boil.
Brilliant Pale Bluish Crimson.--A really brilliant shade, bordering on a violet red, is dyed in a bath containing 1-1/2 lb. Fast Acid Violet R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Bluish Crimson.--Make the dye-bath with 3Â lb. Croceine Scarlet, 10Â lb. Glauber's salt, and 2Â lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a good full shade of a bluish tone and very bright.
Bluish Crimson.--Dye with 3 lb. Chromotrop 6 B, 10 lb. Glauber'ssalt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a fine tint, very fast to acids, milling and light.
Purple.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Chromotrop 10 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.
The Chromotrops are remarkable for the fulness of the shades they dye, the brightness of their tint, and their fastness to acids, washing and light.
Purple.--Use 4 lb. Azo Fuchsine B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Bluish Purple.--A very dark shade of purple is dyed with 4 lb. Azo Acid Violet 4 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Bordeaux Reds.--These are shades that lie intermediately between the scarlets and the crimsons. They are in general duller than the scarlets, and have a more solid and fuller look; while they are less blue in tone than the crimson. They can be obtained from a large variety of dye-stuffs, and the recipes given below may be regarded as typical examples.
Bright Bordeaux Red.--Make the dye-bath with 1Â lb. Azo Bordeaux, 10Â lb. Glauber's salt, and 2Â lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil to shade. This is a very bright shade, of a somewhat bluish tone.
Cherry Red.--Make the dye-bath with 2-1/2 lb. Fast Acid Magenta B, 2-1/2 lb. Fast Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a fine deep shade.
Bright Cherry Red.--A very yellow shade of red, fast to milling, is dyed by making a dye-bath with 1-1/2 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, 3 lb. Diamine Fast Red F, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 5 lb. acetate of soda, and 2 lb. bisulphate of soda. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, re-enter the wool and work half an hour longer; wash and dry.
Deep Bordeaux Red.--The dye-bath is made with 4 lb. Diamine Fast Red F, 5 lb. acetate of soda, and 3 lb. bisulphate ofsoda. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, add to the bath 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, re-enter the goods and work again for half an hour; lift, wash and dry.
Bright Cherry Red.--Make a dye-bath with 4Â lb. Benzo Fast Red, 10Â lb. Glauber's salt, and 2Â lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, add 3Â lb. fluoride of chrome, re-enter the goods and work for half an hour longer; wash and dry.
Cherry Red.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 1-1/2 lb. Fast Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil for one hour.
Bluish Bordeaux Red.--For a very fast shade use 8 oz. Fast Acid Violet R, 8 oz. Orange G, 3/4 oz. Patent Blue B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil for one hour.
Bright Bordeaux Red.--A good bright and fast shade of red is dyed with 3-1/2Â lb. Emin Red and 7Â lb. bisulphate of soda. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, add 3Â lb. fluoride of chrome, work for three-quarters of an hour, then lift, wash and dry.
Bordeaux Red.--Use 3 lb. Titan Scarlet D, 1/4 lb. Titan Brown O, and 20 lb. salt. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and dry.
Claret Reds.--Claret reds are very useful shades and are great favourites of the dress-loving public. They are dark reds of a yellow tone, and can be dyed upon wool in a variety of ways, of which the following recipes just indicate a few.
Claret.--Make the dye-bath with 4 lb. Milling red R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 4 lb. sulphuric acid.
Claret.--Use 4 lb. Archil Substitute N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Claret.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Bordeaux B L, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Claret.--A deep shade is dyed with 2-1/2 lb. Victoria Scarlet R,2 lb. Victoria Rubine O, 1 oz. Cyanine Scarlet R, 2 lb. Victoria Rubine O, 1 oz. Cyanine B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Claret.--A fine deep shade is dyed with 2 lb. Azo Red A, 1/4 lb. Orange extra, 1/4 lb. Cyanole, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Maroon Reds.--From clarets to maroons is not a wide interval, they are both dark shade reds, the former tending to a yellow tone, the latter to a more bluish shade of red. A few recipes will be given to show some of the best methods of dyeing maroons.
Maroon.--Use 6 lb. Amaranth B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a fine bright shade.
Deep Maroon.--Make the dye-bath with 4-1/2 lb. Fast Acid Violet 10 B, 80 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid. This gives a fine blue shade of maroon of great depth.
Maroon.--The dye-bath is made with 3 lb. Azo acid violet 4 R, 1 lb. Fast Yellow S, 1-1/2 oz. Fast Green Bluish, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Deep Maroon.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Acid Magenta, 1/2 lb. Orange O, 1/2 lb. Patent Blue V, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Deep Maroon.--Make a dye-bath with 3 lb. Azo Acid Rubine, 1-1/2 oz. Acid Black B B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Maroon.--The dye-bath is made with 3 lb. Milling Red B, 1-1/2 oz. Naphthol Black 4 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.
Deep Maroon.--Make the dye-bath with 1-1/2 lb. Victoria Scarlet R, 13 oz. Victoria Rubine O, 1/2 lb. Victoria Yellow, 2 lb. Keton Blue G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.
Bright Red.--A good shade is dyed with 4 lb. Lanafuchsine S G, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Lanafuchsine S B dyes somewhat bluer shades.
FastRed.--Dye with 4 lb. Milling Red B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Bright Scarlet.--Dye with 3 lb. Brilliant Cochineal 2 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.
Deep Scarlet.--Dye with 3 lb. Brilliant Ponceau 4 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Pinks.--Pink.--Use 1-1/2 oz. Erythesine D, and 5 lb. acetic acid. These two pinks are very much alike and are very bright.
Bluish Pink.--Use 1-1/2Â oz. Rose Bengale and 5Â lb. acetic acid.
Pink.--Make the dye-bath with 3Â oz. Azo Cochineal, 10Â lb. Glauber's salt, and 2Â lb. sulphuric acid.
Bluish Pink.--Make the dye-bath with 3/4 to 1 oz. Fast Acid Violet R and a little Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Pink.--By using 1-1/2 oz. Fast Acid Violet R, 3/4 oz. Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, a good full pink is obtained.
Bluish Pink.--Use 2 oz. Fast Acid Violet R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Many of the other acid reds may be used for dyeing pinks if from 2 to 4Â oz. of dye-stuff be used.
Pink.--Use in the dye-bath 1-1/2 oz. Diamine Fast Red F, 5 lb. acetate of soda, and 3 lb. bisulphate of soda.
Coral Red.--Make the dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Diamine Scarlet B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Cherry Red.--The dye-bath is made with 2-1/2 lb. Orange G G, 1 lb. Brilliant Orseille C, 3/4 oz. Cyanole extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Deep Crimson.--Use in the dye-bath 4 lb. Brilliant Orseille C, 1-1/2 oz. Cyanole extra, 3 oz. Orange G G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Scarlet.--Make the dye-bath with 4 lb. Lanafuchsine S G, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Work at the boil to shade.
Crimson.--Makethe dye-bath with 4 lb. Lanafuchsine S B, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Work at the boil to shade.
The Lanafuchsines, of which there are three brands, SÂ G, SÂ B, and 6Â B, dye very good level shades of red from scarlet to crimson, which are of good fastness to milling, acids and light.
Salmon.--Use 1/2 lb. Rhodamine B, 1/4 oz. Naphthol Yellow S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Rose Red.--Use 1/4 lb. Lanafuchsine S B, 3 oz. Lanafuchsine S G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1 lb. sulphuric acid.
Salmon Red.--Use 1-1/2 oz. Lanafuchsine S G, 1/4 oz. Fast Yellow S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1/2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Deep Crimson.--The dye-bath is made with 2 lb. Naphthol Red C, 9 oz. Acid Magenta, 3/4 oz. Cyanole extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Purple Red.--Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Naphthol Red C, 3/4 lb. Acid Magenta, 1 oz. Cyanole extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Bordeaux Red.--Dye with 4 lb. Lanafuchsine S B, 1 oz. Orange extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Fawn Red.--Dye with 1/4 lb. Orange G G, 3 oz. Lanafuchsine S B, 1/2 oz. Cyanole extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Salmon.--Prepare the dye-bath with 1/4 oz. Fast Acid Violet R, 1/2 oz. Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 1 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil to shade.
The mordant reds are fairly numerous, and include both natural and artificial red dye-stuffs. The principle or property on which the application of this group of dye-stuffs to the dyeing of textile fabrics depends is that they are of an acid character and combine with metallic oxides, like those of iron, aluminium, or chromium to form insoluble coloured bodies, or "colour lakes" as they are called. The shade or tintof these colour lakes depends, firstly, upon the dye-stuff, and, secondly, upon the metallic oxide. Thus Alizarine with alumina gives a scarlet, with chrome a dark red, and with iron a dull violet. Alumina and chrome are the metallic mordants most commonly used in the dyeing of reds; sometimes tin is used, but never iron.
The coal-tar colour makers have placed at the service of dyers a great variety of mordant dyes, which may be classified somewhat roughly into groups, according to their chemical composition. The first group is called phenolic colours. These contain the group, or radical OH, hydroxyl, once or oftener. It is to the presence of this group that they owe their acid character and the property of combination with metallic oxides. To this group of dye-stuffs belong such dyes as Alizarine, Alizarine Cyanine, Anthragallol, Gambine, Coerulein, and some others. The natural red dye-stuffs, Cochineal, Brazil-wood, madder, etc., probably belong to this class.
None of these are essentially dyes of themselves, and used alone will not dye any fibre, it is only when they are brought into combination with the mordant that they will dye the wool fibre.
The next group may be called hydroxy-azo dyes, and are quite of modern introduction. They are azo dyes, one of whose constituents is a body like salicylic acid, amido-benzoic acid, dihydroxy-naphthalene-sulpho acid, which contain the group OH, hydroxyl with carboxyl COOH. The first group imparts phenolic characters, while the second gives true acid properties, and both of these acting together cause the dyes to be able to form colour lakes with metallic oxides. There is one point of difference between the two groups of dyes, the phenolic dyes are as a rule not dyes of themselves, some of them are practically free from colour, and it is only when brought into combination with the metallic oxide ormordant that they form a colour and dye a fibre. On the other hand the azo mordants are in general colouring matters, and can be used to dye wool without the aid of a mordant, the latter only serving to make the colour faster to light, acids, milling, etc., and it often has no material effect on the shade or tone of colour being dyed. Alizarine Yellow G G, Gambine Yellow, Anthracene Yellow, Chrome Violet, are examples of such dyes.
There are, however, some dyes (such as the Chromotrops, Azofuchsine, Anthracene Acid Browns, etc.) on which the mordant has a marked effect.
The methods adopted in practice for the application of this class of dyes are many and varied. The mordants used are alum, alumina sulphate, acetate of chrome, chrome alum, fluoride of chrome, ferrous sulphate and tin chloride, while, in addition, along with these true mordanting materials, assistant mordants are used, such as argol, tartar, tartaric acid, lactic acid, lignorosine, oxalic acid and sulphuric acid.
The mordanting may be done either before or after the dyeing, the first plan being that commonly adopted with the phenolic colours, while the second method may be used and is the best to use with azo-mordant dyes. Sometimes the mordanting and dyeing may be done in one bath, but this method is one which leads to a loss of colouring matter and often to the production of colours which are loose to rubbing, and cannot, therefore, be recommended.
Mordanting.--This operation is carried out in the same way in all cases. The goods are entered into the bath at a temperature of about 150° F. The heat is raised to the boil, and is then maintained for one and a half hours, after which the mordanted wool is lifted and well rinsed, when it is ready for the dye-bath. As mordanting materials bichromate of potash and fluoride of chrome are chiefly used when chrome mordants are required, sometimes chrome alum.With these are used sulphuric acid, oxalic acid, cream of tartar or argol, lactic acid, etc.
Which of these are used depends entirely on the results which are to be got and the dye-stuff to be used, more particularly is this the case when bichromate of potash is the mordanting material. When sulphuric acid is used as the assistant along with the bichrome, then there is formed on the wool fibre a deposit of chromic acid and chromium oxide, and this exerts an oxidising effect on the colouring matter or dye-stuff, which in some cases, as the Alizarine Blue, Alizarine Yellow, etc., leads to a destructive effect, and, therefore, the production of weak shades, so that it is not possible always to use an oxidising mordant. When tartar, argol, oxalic acid, lactic acids and other assistants of an organic nature are used, then a different effect is obtained, the bichromate is completely decomposed, and a deposit of chromium oxide formed on the wool. This does not exert any action on the colouring matter, and hence this mordant is known as the non-oxidising mordant. It may be pointed out that when wool is mordanted with potassium or sodium bichromate and sulphuric acid (oxidising mordant) it has a deep yellow colour, while when mordanted with bichromate or other chrome salt, and the organic assistants enumerated above (non-oxidising mordant), it has a green colour, and one sign of a well-mordanted wool is when it has a good bright tone free from yellowness.
Of the organic assistants tartar is undoubtedly the best in general use, and, although slow in its action, leaves a good deposit of oxide of chrome on the wool in a suitable condition to develop the best results on dyeing. Argols are only an impure tartar. They can only be used when dark shades are to be dyed. Oxalic acid does not work as well as tartar, and there is not so much chrome oxide deposited on the wool, while there is a slight tendency for a small proportion of this tobe in the form of chromic acid. Of late years lactic acid and lignorosine have been added to the list of assistant mordants; both these give excellent results, they lead to a more complete and more uniform decomposition of the bichromate, and therefore the mordanting baths are more completely exhausted, so that rather less bichromate is required; the shades which are obtained are in general fuller and brighter. Examples of the use of these assistants will be found among the recipes given below.
With fluoride of chrome either oxalic acid or tartar is used, and a deposit of chromium oxide is formed on the wool, the general effect being the same as when bichromate of potash is used with oxalic acid or tartar.
Alumina is applied either in the form of alum or of sulphate of alumina, argol or tartar being used as the assistant, oxide of alumina being deposited on the fibre.
When ferrous sulphate (copperas) is used then tartar is almost invariably used as the assistant mordant, oxalic acid only rarely.
The dyeing with mordant dyes must be done in a special way and with great care, if uniform, level shades and fast colours are to be obtained.
The dye-bath must be started cold, and the wool be entered and worked for twenty to thirty minutes, the object being to cause the dye-stuffs to penetrate well into the substance of the fibre, then the temperature is slowly raised to the boil, not less than three-quarters of an hour being taken in doing so; the temperature is maintained at the boil for fully one and a half hours longer. During the boiling operation the mordant and dye-stuff combine together, and form the characteristic colour lake, and the boiling fixes this firmly on to the wool.
The water used plays a very important part. If too hard in character, the lime it contains shows a tendency to combine withthe dye-stuff and form a colour lake, which is deposited in a loose form on the wool or in the bath, tending to make the shades dull and loose to rubbing. This defect can be remedied by adding a little acetic acid to the dye-bath, say about 3Â lb. to 100 gallons of the water. It combines with and neutralises the influence of the lime, in so far as the formation of a loose colour lake is concerned; still the lime does unite with the dye-stuff, but the combination is formed more slowly, and in or on the wool fibre so that it is fast.
By working in the manner laid down above very fast shades can be dyed on wool with mordant dyes, and the following recipes will give the other details as to tints, shades, quantities, etc., not noted above.
Claret.--Mordant, 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar; dye, 8 lb. Alizarine Claret R.
Fawn.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 3 lb. Alizarine Orange N.
Maroon.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 15 lb. Alizarine Orange N.
Deep Crimson.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 8 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S.
Lilac Rose.--Mordant, 1-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 1 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S.
Crushed Strawberry Tint.--Mordant, 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 3 lb. Alizarine Red 2 W S.
Deep Claret.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 5 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S.
Bright Fawn Red.--Mordant, 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 1 lb. Alizarine Red 5 W S.
Scarlet.--Mordant, 10 lb. alum and 6 lb. tartar; dye, 4 lb. Alizarine Red 5 W S.
Rose.--Mordant, 6 lb. alum and 4 lb. tartar; dye, 1 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S.
DeepScarlet.--Mordant, 10 lb. alum and 6 lb. tartar; dye, 4 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S.
Deep Maroon.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. sulphuric acid; dye, 5 lb. Alizarine Red 3 W S.
Bright Maroon.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar; dye, 5 lb. Alizarine Red S W, 10 lb. Mordant Yellow.
Deep Fawn Red.--Mordant, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar; dye, 10 lb. Alizarine Orange W and 1 lb. Mordant Yellow.
These typical recipes are here given to show what tints may be obtained from the alizarine and the quantity of dye-stuffs required. By using other proportions of dye-stuffs than those given a variety of other tints may be dyed.
The method of working described above is applicable to other mordant dyeing colours besides the alizarine reds, such as Alizarine Orange, Alizarine Blue, Anthracene Brown, Alizarine Cyanine, Galloflavine, Gambine, Chrome Violet, etc. It will therefore not be required to repeat this description of the process when the use of mordant colours for producing other colours, such as blues, navies, drabs, browns, etc., is dealt with.
Although the shades dyed with the alizarines and allied colouring matters are lacking in the brilliance characteristic of the azo scarlets, yet they have the very great advantage of being quite fast to washing, acids and light.
There is another method of using those alizarine reds that are sold in the form of powder, and which are distinguished by the letter S. They are of some value in dyeing heavy woollen cloths, and the method is indicated in the two recipes which follow:--
Brilliant Scarlet.--Prepare a dye-bath with 20 lb. Glauber's salt and 4 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S, boil the wool in this for three-quarters of an hour; then lift, add to the same bath 4lb. sulphuric acid, again work at the boil for three-quarters of an hour; then lift, add 10 lb. alum, re-enter the goods, and work three-quarters of an hour longer; then lift, wash and dry.
Claret.--Prepare a bath with 20 lb. Glauber's salt and 4 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S, boil for three-quarters of an hour; then lift, add 4 lb. sulphuric acid, re-enter the wool, boil for three-quarters of an hour; then lift, add 3 lb. bichromate of potash, re-enter the wool, and boil for three-quarters of an hour longer; then lift, wash and dry.
Bluish Red.--Mordant, 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. lactic acid; dye, 2 lb. Alizarine Red S. In this recipe there is used lactic acid as the assistant, and a very fine shade results.
Red.--Mordant, 3 lb. lignorosine, 2 lb. bichromate of soda and 1 lb. sulphuric acid; dye with 12 lb. Alizarine Orange 2 G.
Dark Bordeaux Red.--Mordant, 3 lb. lignorosine, 3 lb. bichromate of soda and 1-1/2 lb. sulphuric acid; dye, 12 lb. Alizarine S X.
Dark Red.--Mordant, 3 lb. lignorosine, 2-1/2 lb. bichromate of soda and 1-1/4 lb. sulphuric acid; dye, 6 lb. Alizarine Orange 2 G and 4 lb. Alizarine S X.
Lignorosine used as the assistant mordant in the above recipes works very well, and gives bright shades.
Fast Bordeaux.--Prepare a bath with 4 lb. Chromogene I, 1-1/2 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S, 1 lb. Alizarine Red 5 W S, 1/2 lb. Fast Acid Violet R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 3 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift; add to the same bath 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb. sulphuric acid. Re-enter the goods and work to shade, then lift, wash and dry.
Terra Cotta.--Make a dye-bath of 30Â lb. Fustic, 8Â lb. Turmeric, 30Â lb. Sanders and 10Â lb. Sumac. Boil the goods inthis for one hour, then add 3Â lb. sulphate of copper, previously dissolved in water, boil for one hour; cool, sadden with Copperas, using about 3-1/2Â lb. or less if required; then rinse and dry.
Another method is to mordant the goods at a boil for one and a half hours in 2Â lb. bichromate of potash and 2Â lb. tartar. Drain and wash. Dye in a fresh bath with 8Â lb. sanders and 10Â lb. fustic; afterwards sadden with 1/4Â lb. copperas; allow to stand one hour; wash and dry.
Orange Shades on Wool.
With Direct Dyes.Make a dye-bath with 2Â lb. Titan Orange, 20Â lb. Glauber's salt, and 1/2Â lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one and a half hours, then lift, wash and dry.
Bright Orange.--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Benzo Orange R, 10 lb. salt, and 1 lb. acetic acid, working at the boil for one hour.
Orange.--Dye with 2Â lb. Chloramine Orange, 20Â lb. salt, and a little acetic acid, working at the boil for one hour.
Orange.--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine Orange G C, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.
Pale Orange.--Dye with 3Â lb. Diamine Gold, 10Â lb. Glauber's salt, and 5Â lb. ammonium acetate.
Reddish Orange.--Dye with 3 lb. Diamine Orange D C and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.
Orange.--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine Scarlet B, 1 lb. Thioflavine S, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.
Dark Orange.--Dye with 1 lb. Diamine Red 5 B, 1 lb. Thioflavine S, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.
With Acid Colours.Orange.--Dye with 2 lb. Ponceau 3 G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Bright Orange.--Dye with 2 lb. Mandarine G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Orange.--Dye with 2Â lb. Croceine Orange, 10Â lb. Glauber's salt, and 2Â lb. sulphuric acid.
BrightOrange.--Use 3 lb. Orange G G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, boiling for one hour.
Orange.--Use 3 lb. Orange R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil. Orange Extra will give a slightly less red tone of orange, Croceine orange gives a good bright shade of a yellowish tone.
There are several brands of Orange dyes which can be used; they differ but little in shade from one another. In general they give fast colours. The Tropæolines also dye orange shades, but they are not so fast as the other dyes which have been named.
Gold Orange.--Make a dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Diamine scarlet B, 2 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, 50 lb. Glauber's salt, 5 lb. acetate of ammonia. Enter the wool, work for half an hour, then add 3 lb. bisulphate of soda. Boil again for half an hour, then lift. Add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, re-enter the wool, boil again for half an hour, then lift, wash and dry. This gives a very fast orange.
With Mordant Dyes.Old Gold.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. sulphuric acid; dye with 6 lb. Alizarine Yellow R W.
Pale Orange.--Mordant with 6 lb. alum and 4 lb. tartar; dye with 1 lb. Alizarine Orange G G.
Deep Orange.--Mordant with 10 lb. alum and 6 lb. tartar; dye with 10 lb. Alizarine Orange N. This last dye-stuff gives a slightly redder shade of Orange than does the Alizarine Orange G.
Deep Orange.--Dye in a bath with 1-3/4 lb. Azo Alizarine Orange R R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, and fix in the same bath with 1 lb. bichromate of potash.
Orange.--Dye in a bath with 1 lb. Alizarine Red 1 W S, 2 lb. Mordant Yellow O, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, then fix with 1-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash.
Orange.--Dye in a bath with 1Â lb. Anthracene Red, 2Â lb. AlizarineYellow, 10Â lb. Glauber's salt and 2Â lb. sulphuric acid. After dyeing fix with 2Â lb. fluoride of chrome.
Gold Orange.Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash, and 2 lb. tartar, for one and a half hours at the boil; rinse. Then dye in a new bath with 1 lb. Alizarine Orange, 17 lb. Fustic extract. Work at 100° F. for half an hour, then heat gradually to the boil and dye for one and a half hours at that temperature; lift, rinse and wash.
Olive Yellow on Worsted Yarn.--Mordant the yarn by boiling for one hour or one and a half hours in a bath of 3Â lb. bichromate of potash; then dye in a bath of 1-1/2Â lb. Gambine Yellow and 10Â lb. of fustic chips.
Red and orange form a kind of group of colours which shade off one into the other almost imperceptibly by using a range of dyes such as Croceine A Z, Brilliant Croceine 9 B, Brilliant Croceine 7 B, Brilliant Croceine 5 B, Brilliant Croceine 3 B, Brilliant Croceine M O O, Crystal Scarlet 6 R, Brilliant Cochineal 4 R, Brilliant Croceine B, Brilliant Cochineal 2 R, Orange E N Z, and Croceine Orange E N. It is possible to dye shades from a scarlet crimson to a bright orange.
Yellow Shades on Wool.
The number of yellow dye-stuffs is very great, and the variety of tints infinite. Yellow may be dyed with both natural and artificial dye-stuffs, and the recipes given will include examples showing the use of both kinds. Speaking generally, yellow dye-stuffs include amongst them some of the fastest colours known, and there is a larger proportion of fast yellow colouring matters than of any other class of dye-stuffs.
With Acid Yellows.Bright Yellow.--Make the dye-bath with 1Â lb. Fast Yellow FÂ Y, 10Â lb. Glauber's salt, and 2Â lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil to shade.
OliveYellow.--Prepare the dye-bath with 1Â lb. Azo Carmine, 1-1/2Â oz. indigo carmine, 1/2Â lb. Fast Yellow, 10Â lb. Glauber's salt, and 2Â lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil to shade.
Maize Yellow.--Prepare a dye-bath with 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, 3 oz. Anthracene Yellow C, 1/4 oz. Diamine Fast Red F. Work for twenty minutes at the boil, then add 3 lb. bisulphate of soda; work half an hour longer, and then wash and dry.
Bright Canary.--Prepare a dye-bath with 4 lb. bisulphate of soda, 1/2 lb. Nitrazine Yellow. Heat the bath to about 120° F., enter the goods and heat up to the boil, and work till the bath is exhausted, then lift; add to the dye-bath 3 lb. alum, 3 lb. tin spirits; re-enter the goods, and boil for twenty minutes longer; lift, wash and dry.
Bright Straw.--Dye with 3Â oz. Phenoflavine and 20Â lb. bisulphate of soda.
Straw.--Make the dye-bath with 1-1/4 oz. Azo Yellow, 1 dr. Cyanine B, 1 dr. Chromotrop 2 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1 lb. sulphuric acid.
Greenish Straw.--Dye with 1/4 oz. Cyanine B, 1 oz. Victoria Yellow, 1/4 oz. Chromotrop 2 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1 lb. sulphuric acid.
Olive Yellow.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. sulphuric acid; dye with 3 lb. Milling yellow O and 1 lb. acetic acid.
Bright Yellow.--A good shade is dyed in a bath of 2 lb. Milling yellow O, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil.
Olive Yellow.--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Titan Yellow R, 10 lb. common salt, and 1 lb. acetic acid; after the colour has fully gone on to the wool, add to the bath 1-1/2 lb. fluoride of chrome and maintain at the boil for half an hour; then lift, wash and dry.
Deep Yellow.--The dye-bath is made with 1-1/2 lb. Titan Yellow R,10 lb. common salt, and 1 lb. acetic acid, working at the boil to shade.
Yellow.--A good shade is dyed with 1-1/2 lb. Titan Yellow Y, 10 lb. common salt, and 1/2 lb. acetic acid, working at the boil to shade.
Golden Yellow.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tartar; dye with 1 lb. Anthracene Yellow C.
Deep Golden Yellow.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, and 3 lb. bisulphate of soda. Work at the boil for half an hour, then lift; add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, re-enter the wool and work at the boil for another half-hour, then wash and dry.