CHAP. XVIII.

To conclude, here is a treasure hid in the Mountaines; Oh that it could bee found out to doe the Lord service. I was welcomed to this place by those Fryers, who were strangers unto mee; my head was filled that day by them with relations of strange and many miracles or lies, which they told mee of that picture; but the heavinesse of my head did mee good in something, for it made mee more drowsie at night and apter to take good rest. The next day I got into the Rode againe, and went to the last Town of theseCuchumatlanescalledChautlan, where I stayed all that day and night, and sent before a letter to the Prior ofSacapulaof my going thither the next day. InChautlanI was very kindly used by theIndians, and liked the Towne the better for the excellent grapes which there I found, not planted like vineyards, but growing up in harbours, which shew that if that land were planted, it would certainly yeeld as good grapes for wine, as any are inSpain. They are carried from that place toGuatemala, which stands from it neer forty leagues, and are sold about the streets for rarities and great dainties; and well may they, for fromMexicotoGuatemalathere are none like them. The next morning I made haste to be gone, that I might come sooner toSacapula, where I was to finde those of mine owne profession, with whom I knew I might stay and rest a whole weeke if I pleased. I had not rid above three leagues, when I began to discover at a low and deep bottome, a pleasant and goodly valley, laced with a River, whosewaters receiving the glorious brightnesse ofPhoebusbeames reverberated up to the top of the Mountaine, a delightsome prospect to the beholders; the more I hasted to that seeming Paradise, the more did the twinkling and wanton streame invite mee downe the hill; which I had no sooner descended, but I found in an harbour by the water side the Prior ofSacapulahimselfe with a good traine ofIndianswaiting for mee with a cup of Chocolatte. At the first light I was a little daunted to behold the Prior, who looked most fearfully with a bladder from his throat swelled almost round his necke, which hung over his shoulders and brest, and stayed up his chin, and lifted up his head so, that hee could scarce looke any whither but up to heaven. In our discourse he told mee that disease had beene upon him at least ten yeers, and that the water of that River had caused it in him, and in many others of that Town. This made mee now as much out of love with the River, as above the hill I had liked the goodly sight of it, and therefore resolved not to stay so long in that place as I had thought, lest the waters should marke me for all my life, as they had done this Prior; whose name was FryerJohn De la Cruz, a Biscaine borne, and (like some of that Nation) a little troubled with the simples, but a good hearted man, humble, and well beloved over all the Country both bySpaniardsandIndians. When I came to the Towne I discovered many men and women with bladders in their throats like the poore Prior, which made mee almost unwilling to drink there any Chocolatte made with that water, or eat any thing dressed with it; untill the Prior did much incourage mee and told mee that it did not hurt all but onely some, and those who did drink it cold; wherewith I resolved to stay there foure or five daies, because of the old Priors importunity, who would faine have had mee continue to live with him, promising to teach mee theIndianlanguage in a very short time. But higher matters calling mee toGuatemala, I excused my selfe, and continued there five dayes with much recreation. The Town though it be not in the generall very rich, yet there are someIndianMerchants who trade about the country and especially toSuchutepequeswhere is the chief store of Cacao, and thereby some of this Towne ofSacapula, have inriched themselves; the rest of the people trade in pots and pans, which they make of an earth there fit for that purpose. But the principall Merchandize of this place is salt, which they gather in the morning from the ground that lyeth neere the River. The aire is hot, by reason the Town standeth low, and compassed with high hills on every side. Besides many good fruits which are here, there are Dates as good as those that come fromBarbary, and many trees of them in the Garden belonging to the Cloister. After I had here wearied out the wearinesse, which I brought in my bones from theCuchumatlanes, I departed taking my way toGuatemala, and fromSacapulaI went to a Town called St.Andres, or St.Andrews, which standeth six or seven leagues fromSacapula, a great Town, but nothing remarkable in it, save onely Cotton wooll and Turkies, and about it some rich Estancia's or Farmes of Cattell, which are commodiously seated here, it being a plain Champaigne Country. Yet at further end of this plain there is a Mountaine which discourageth with the sight all such as travell toGuatemala; from St.AndresI prepared my selfe for the next daies journey, which was of nine long leagues, to a very great Town called by two names, by someSacualpa, by others Sta.Maria Zojabah, to the which I could not goe without passing over that Mountaine. I sent word of going toZojabahthe day before (as is the custome there) that mules and horses might meet mee upon the Mountaine; and the night before I went to a Rancho (which is a lodge built for travellers to rest when the journey is long) which stood within a league of the Mountaine by a River, where with the waters murmur, and refreshing gales I tooke good rest. In the morning having refreshed my selfe, and myIndianswith Chocolatte I set out to incounter with that proud Mountaine; and when I came unto it I found it not so hard to overcome, as I had conceited, the way lying with windings and turnings; But the higher I mounted the more my eyes were troubled with looking to the River below, whose rockes were enough to astonish and make a stout heart tremble. About the middle of the Mountaine theIndiansofZojabahmet with a mule for mee, and another for my carriage in a narrow passage where the way went wheeling. Here I lighted, whilst theIndianshelped one another to unload and load the mule that came of refresh. Out of the narrow way the side of the Mountaine was steepy, and a fearefull precipice of two or three miles to the bottome, almost bare of trees, here and there one onely growing. My heart was true unto mee, wishingmee to walke up a foot untill I came unto some broader passage; but theIndiansperceiving my feare told me there was no danger, assuring mee further that the Mule they had brought was sure, and had been well used to that mountaine. With their perswasions I got up, but no sooner was I mounted when the Mule began to play her prankes and to kick, and to leap out of the way, casting me down and herselfe, both rouling and tumbling a pace to the rockes and death, had not a shrub prevented me, and a tree stopped the Mules blind fury. TheIndianscried out,milagro, milagro, miracle, miracle,Santo, Santo, a Saint, a Saint, to me so loud as if they would have had their cry reach toRometo helpe forward my canonization; for many such miracles have some been noised atRome, and with further contribution of mony have been enrolled in the booke and Catalogue of Saints. Whilst theIndianshelped me up and brought the Mule againe into the way, they did nothing but flatter me with this terme Saint; which they needed not have done, if as they considered my dangerous fall and stopping at a shrub (which was by chance, and not by miracle) they had further considered my passion and hasty wrath (not befitting a Saint) wherewith I threatned to bast their ribs for deceiving mee with a yong Mule not well accustomed to the saddle. But all my hasty words and anger could not discredit me with them, nor lessen their conceipt of my holinesse and sanctity, who hold the anger and wrath of a Preist to be the breath of Gods nostrils, and with this their foolish conceipt of mee, they kneeled before me kissing my hands. The businesse being further examined, they confessed that they had been mistaken in the Mules, having sadled for me that which should have carried my Petaca's, or leatherne chests, which was a young Mule accustomed onely to carriages, and not to the saddle, and upon that which should have been sadled they put my carriage. Whilst they unloaded and loaded again and sadled the right Mule, I walked up the hill about a mile, and when they overtooke me I got up and rid till I met with my refreshing harbour and Chocolatte, and manyIndiansthat came to receive me, among whom it was presently noised that I was a Saint and had wrought a miracle in the way; with this the rest of theIndianskneeled to me and kissed my hands, and in the way that we went to the Towne, all their talk was of my sanctity. I was much vexed at their simplicity, but the more they saw mee unwilling to accept of that honour, the more they pressed it upon me. When I came to the Town I told the Frier what had happened, and what the foolishIndianshad conceited; at which he laughed, and told me that he would warrant me if I staied long in the Towne, all the men and women would come to kisse my hands and to offer their gifts unto me. He knew well their qualities, or else had taught them this superstition with many others; for no sooner had we dined, but many were gathered to the Church to see the Saint that was come to their Towne, and that had wrought a miracle in the mountaine as he came. With this I began to be more troubled then before at the folly of the simple people, and desired the Fryer to checke and rebuke them, who by no means would, but rather laughed at it, saying, that in policy we ought to accept of any honour from theIndians, for as long as we had credit and an opinion of Saints among them, so long we should prevaile to do any thing with them, yea even to command them and their fortunes at our pleasure. With this I went downe with the Frier to the Church, and sate downe with him in a chaire in the Quire, representing the person of such a Saint as they imagined me to be, though in reality and truth but a wretched sinner.

No sooner had we taken up our places, when theIndians, men, women, and children came up by three and four, or whole families to the Quire, first kneeling down for my blessing, and then kissing my hands, they began to speake to me in theirIndiancomplements to this purpose, that their Town was happy and doubtlesse blessed from heaven by my coming into it, and that they hoped their soules should be much the better if they might partake of my praiers to God for them. And for this purpose some offered unto me money, some hony, some egs, some little mantles, some Plantins, and other fruits, some fowles, and some Turkeys. The Frier that sate by me I perceived was overjoyed with this, for he knew I was to be gone, and would leave unto him all those offerings. I desired him to make answer unto theIndiansin my behalfe, excusing me as not well versed in their language (yet the fooles if they thought and judged me to be a Saint, might have expected from me also the gift of tongues) which he did telling them that I had been but a while in that Country, and though I understood part of their language, yet could not speake nor pronounce it perfectly, andtherefore from me he did give them hearty thankes for the great love they had shewed unto an Ambassadour of God, witnessing it with so many sorts of offerings, which assuredly should remind him and mee of our offerings for them, in our praiers and hearty recommendations of them and their children unto God. Thus was that ceremony ended, theIndiansdismissed, and the Frier and I went up to a chamber, where he began to tell his egs and fowles and to dispose of some of them for our supper; he told me he would take them, but at my departure would give me somewhat for them; he bad me keep what money they had given me, and told me I was welcome unto him, and no burdensome guesse, but very profitable, who had brought with me store of provision for my selfe and for him many daies after. The money I received came to fourty Rials, besides twenty which he gave me for the other offerings, which might be worth fourty more; all this I got for having a fall from a Mule, and for not breaking my necke. I would faine have departed the next morning, butJohn Vidall(so was the Frier named) would not permit me, for that the next journey was of at least ten leagues, and therefore he would have me rest my selfe the next day.

This Towne ofZojabah, orSacualpais the biggest and fairest of all the Towns that belong unto the Priory ofSacapula; theIndiansare rich, and make of their Cotton-wool many mantles, they have plenty of hony, and great flocks of goats and kids; but here, nor in all the Townes behind there is no wheat, save onlyIndianMaiz. The next day some small offerings fell unto mee, but nothing like the day before; and so I told the Frier, that now the peoples devotion was decaied, I would bee gone in the morning before day. That night the chiefeIndiansof the Towne came to offer their service and attendance upon me to a Rancho or lodge that standeth in the middle way; but I would not accept of the great ones, but desired that I might have three onely of the meaner sort to guide mee till I met with company from the Towne whither I was going, and whither I had sent warning of my comming. The time appointed was three of the clock in the morning; at which houre after a little sleep I was called, and having drunke my Chocolatte, and eat a maple bread with a little conserve, I prepared my selfe for my journey, and found theIndiansready waiting for me in the yard, with pieces of pine-wood, which burn like torches, and with which they use to travell in the night, and to shew the way to him whom they guide. A little from the Towne wee had some craggy wayes, which indeed had need of lights, but afterwards we came into a plaine champaigne Countrey, which continued till within a league of the middle way lodge; to the which we were to descend a steep hill. When we came thither (which was about seven in the morning) we found our fresh supply waiting for us, who had set out from their Towne at midnight to meet us (note theIndianssubjection to their Preists command) and had made us a fire, and warmed water for our Chocolatte. Which whilst I was drinking, theIndiansofZojabah, who had guided me thither, gave notice to those that came to receive fromSt. Martin(so was the Towne called whither I was that day minded) of my miracle and sanctity, wishing them to reverence and respect me in the way. But not for this their foolish report did I make theIndiansofZojabahdrinke every one a cup of Chocolatte, and so dismissed them; and took forwards my journey toSt. Martin. Most of the way was hilly and craggy till we came within two miles of the Towne; to the which we arrived by noone. This Towne is cold, standing high, yet pleasant for the prospect almost toGuatemala; here, and in most of the Towns about it is most excellent wheat. The hony of this Towne is the best in the Countrey; but above all it furnishethGuatemalawith Quailes, Partridges, and Rabbits. It is the first Towne wee enter into belonging to the City and command ofGuatemala; which did not a little comfort me, that now I wanted but one good journey to make an end of my long, tedious and wearisome travelling. The Frier of this Towne namedThomas de la Cruzbelonged unto the Dominican Cloister ofGuatemala; he was a Criolian, but yet he entertained me very lovingly. I staied with him but that night. And in the morning (though I might have gone to dinner toGuatemala) I would needs goe by the way to one of the biggest Townes in that Countrey, calledChimaltenango, standing in an open valley three leagues from the City, consisting of a thousand house-keepers, and richIndianswho trade much about the Countrey. In this Towne in my time there was oneIndian, who alone had bestowed upon the Church five thousand duckates. The Church yeelds to none in the City ofGuatemala, and in musick it exceeds most about the Country. The chief feast ofChimaltenangoisupon the 26. day ofJuly, (which they call St.Annesday) and then is the richest faire that ever my eyes beheld in those parts of all sorts of Merchants and Merchandize; It is further set forth with Bull-baiting, Horse-racing, Stage-playes, Maskes, dances, Musick, and all this gallantly performed by theIndiansof the Town. The Fryer of this Town was a Dominican, belonging to the Cloister of the Dominicans ofGuatemala, namedAlonso Hidalgo, a foure eyed old man, for hee alwaies wore spectacles. Hee was aSpaniardborne, but having beene brought up in that Country from his youth, and having taken his habit and vowes inGuatemalaamongst the Criolians, hee degenerated from his birth and Country-men, hating all such as came fromSpain. Hee was a deadly enemy to the Provinciall (ayming indeed himselfe to bee Provinciall with the favour of the Criolians) and so I perceived hee would have picked a quarrell with mee, whilst I was with him; hee told mee I was welcome, though hee had little reason to bid any welcome that had come fromSpain, who hee thought came but to supplant those that had been born and brought up there in their own Country, and that for ought hee knew, I learning the language of thoseIndiansmight one day dispossesse him of that Towne, wherein hee had continued above ten yeers; hee envied much against the Provinciall and FryerJohn Baptistthe Prior ofGuatemala, whom hee knew to bee my friend; But to all this I answered not a word, respecting his grave and old age, and Crystall spectacles. At last he told mee that hee had heard say, that theIndiansofZojabahhad cried mee up for a Saint, which hee could not beleeve of any that came fromSpain, much lesse of mee that came fromEnglanda countrey of hereticks; but hee feared rather that I might come as a spie, to view the riches of that their Country, and betray them hereafter toEngland; and that inGuatemalathere were many rich pieces, especially a picture of our Lady, and a lampe in the Cloister of the Dominicans, which he doubted not but I would bee carefull to pry into. But all this I put up with a jest, saying, that I would bee sure to take notice first of the riches of his chamber in pictures, hangings, and rich Cabinets, and that if theEnglishcame thither in my time, I would surely conduct them to it; and if hee himselfe would but cause a set of teeth of silver to bee set in his gums and jawes in stead of those leaden ones, (for hee was so old that hee had lost all his teeth, and had got some of lead in their stead) then surely I would also conduct theEnglishto him as to a rich prize for his teeth, and that I would warrant him hee should bee well used for his outward and inward riches; and that this my counsell might bee profitable and of consequence to him, I told him; for if theEnglishshould come, certainly they would try of what metall his teeth were made, thinking that they might bee of some rare and exquisite substance found onely in that Country, and so might cause him to drink such hot and scalding broth, (to try whether they were lead) as might melt them in his mouth, and make the melted lead runne downe his throat, which if they were of silver, they would not doe. Hee perceived I jeared him, and so hee let mee alone; I was glad I had put him out of his former byas of rayling; so dinner being ended, I told him I would not stay supper, but goe toGuatemalato a light supper in the Cloister, for that hee had given mee such a dinner, as I feared I should not have digested it in few daies. I desired him to let me haveIndiansto guide me toGuatemala, which he willingly performed, peradventure fearing that if I stayed supper with him, I should melt the teeth in his mouth with some scalding cup of my Chocolatte brought fromChiapa, or that in the night I should rifle or plunder his chamber of his rich Idols and Ebony Cabinets. TheIndiansbeing come, I made hast to be gone from that four eyed beast, being now desirous of a constant rest inGuatemala. Within a league from this Town ofChimaltenango, the Rode way leaving that open, wide, and spatious valley, contracts and gathereth in it selfe between hils and mountaines standing on each side, and so continueth to the City. From this Valley untoGuatemala, neither is there any ascent or descent but a plaine, broad and sandy way. The eye hath much to view, though compassed with Mountaines, in these two last leagues; for yet it may behold a Town ofIndianswhich taketh up most of the way, and is counted as big asChimaltenango, if not bigger, the houses lying scattered with a distance one from another, mingled with many fair buildings ofSpaniards, who resort much thither from the City for their recreation. This Town is calledXocotenango, of a fruit named Xocotte, which is most plentifull there, and all about the Country; it is fresh and cooling, of a yellow colour when ripe, and of two sorts, some sweet, and others sowre, of the stones whereof theIndiansmake afire; they lie so thick in the way, dropping from the trees for want of gathering and spending them all, that theSpaniardshave begun to practise the buying of Hogs on purpose to let them runne about that high way, finding that they fat as speedily and as well with those plummes, as our Hogs doe inEnglandwith Akorns. All this way are also many faire gardens, which supply the Markets ofGuatemalawith herbs, roots, fruits, and flowers all the yeer. There are further in this Rode three water mills for the corn of the City, whereof the chief and the richest belongs to the Dominican Fryers ofGuatemala, who keep there a Fryer constantly with three or foure Blackmores to doe and oversee the worke; What will not those Fryers doe to satisfie their covetous mindes? Even dusty Millars they will become to get wealth. The Frontispice of the Church of this Town is judged one of the best pieces of worke thereabouts; the high Altar within is also rich and stately, being all daubed with gold. I made no stay in this place, because I knew I should have many occasions after my setling in the City to come unto it. And thus keeping between the hils I continued on my journey till I came toGuatemala, whose Dominions, riches and greatnesse the following chapter shall largely shew.

I had not rid on above a mile from the Church ofXocotenango, when the hils and Mountaines seemed to depart one from another, leaving a more spatious object for the eye to behold, and a wider Valley to wander in. The fame of that City fromMexicoandChiapahad raised up my thoughts to conceit of some strong walls, Towers, Forts or Bulwarks to keep out an aspiring or attempting enemy; But when I came neere and least thought of it, I found my self in it without entring through walls, or gates, or passing over any bridge, or finding any watch or guard to examine who I was; but passing by a new built Church, standing neere a place of dunghils, where were none but mean houses, some thatched, and some tyled, and asking what Town that was, answer was made me that it was the City ofGuatemala, and that that, being called St.Sebastian, was the onely Parish Church of the City. With this my high conceiting thoughts stooped down to think of some secondChiapa; till having continued on a while by houses on my right hand and dunghils on my left, I came to a broader street having houses on each side, which seemed to promise a City at hand. At my first turning I discovered a proud and stately Cloister, which was the place of rest to my wearied body. I surrounded it to finde out the back gate, and there lighted, and enquired for the Prior, who bad me very welcome, assuring me that for the Provincials sake, I should want no incouragement, and that hee would doe for mee much more then what the Provinciall had signified unto him by Letters. He told mee hee had beene brought up inSpain, in the Country ofAsturias, where manyEnglishships did use to come, and having seen there many of my Nation, he affected them very much, and to mee as one of so good a Nation, and as a stranger and Pilgrime out of my owne Country, hee would shew all the favour that the utmost of his power would afford. How glad was I, to find in him so contrary an opinion to that of foure eyedHidalgo? And how did he performe his words? He was the chief Master and Reader of Divinity in the University, his name MasterJacintho de Cabannas, who finding mee desirous to follow the Schools, and especially to hear from him some lessons of Theologie, within the first quarter of yeer, that I had been his constant and attentive Auditor, graced mee with a publick act of conclusions of Divinity, which I was to defend under his direction and moderation in the face of the whole University and Assembly of Doctors and Divines, against the Tenents ofScotusandSuarez. But the principall and head conclusion was concerning the birth of the VirginMary, whom both Jesuites,Suarezand Franciscans, and Scotists hold to have beene borne without Originall sinne, orany guilt or staine of it, against whose fond, foolish and ungrounded fancies, I publickly defended withThomas Aquinas, and all Thomists, that shee (as well as allAdamsposterity) was borne in Originall sin. It was an act, the like whereof had not been so controverted in that University with arguments incontra, and their answers and solutions, and with reasons and arguments inpromany yeers before. The Jesuites stamped with their feet, clapt with their hands, railed with their tongues, and condemned it with their mouths for a heresie, saying, that inEngland, where were hereticks, such an opinion concerning Christs mother might bee held, and defended by mee who had my birth among hereticks, but that MasterCabannasborne amongSpaniards, and brought up in their Universities, and being the chief Reader in that famous Academy should maintaine such an opinion, they could not but much marvaile and wonder at it. But with patience I told them, that strong reasons, and the further authority of many learnedThomistDivines should satisfie their vaine and clamorous wondring. The Act was ended, and though with Jesuites I could get no credit, yet with the Dominicans, and with MasterCabannas, I got so much that I never after lost it for the space of almost twelve yeers; but was still honored by the meanes of thisCabannasand FryerJohn Baptistthe Prior ofChiapa(who at Christmas ensuing was made Prior ofGuatemala) with honors and preferments as great as ever stranger was living amongSpaniards. These two above named being at Candlemas or beginning ofFebruarythat same yeer atChiapa, at the election of a new Provinciall, would not forget mee their poorest friend stil abiding inGuatemala, but remembring that the University (which belonged chiefly to the Cloister) at Michaelmas would want a new Reader or Master of Arts to begin with Logick, continue through the eight bookes of Physicks, and to end with the Metaphysicks, propounded mee to the new elected Provinciall (whose name was FryerJohn Ximeno) and to the whole Chapter and Conventicle of the Province for Reader of Arts inGuatemalathe Michaelmas next ensuing. Their suit for me was so earnest and their authority so great that nothing could bee denied them, and so they brought unto mee from the Provinciall Chapter these insuing Letters Patents, from FryerJohn Ximeno, whose form and manner I thought fit here to insert out of the Original inSpanish(which to this day abideth with me) for curiosity and satisfaction of my Reader.

Fray Juan Ximeno Predicador General y Prior Provincial desta Provincia de San Vicente de Chiapa y Guatemala, Orden de Predicadores. Por quanto nuestro Convento de Sancto Domingo de Guatemala carece de Lector de Artes. Por la presente Instituyo y doy por Lector Al Padre fray Thomas de Sancta Maria(so was my Name then, and by this name will someSpaniardsknow mee, who may chance hereafter to read this, and curse mee)por la satisfaccion que tengo de su sufficiencia. Y mando al Pe. Prior del dicho nuestro Convento, le ponga en possession del tal Officio. Y para mayor merito de obediencia le mando in virtute Spiritu sancti, et sanctæ obedientiæ, et sub præcepto formali; In nomine Patris, et Filii et Spiritus sancti. Amen. Fecho en este nuestro Convento de Chiapa la Real en nueve de Febrero de1627.Y la mande sellar con sello mayor de nuistro officio.Fray JuanorXimeno Plis.Por Mandado de Nostro Rdo. Padre, Fray Juan de Sto. Domingo Noto.Notifique esta Patente a el Contenido, en12dias del mes de Abril de1627. Fray Juan Baptista Por.

Fray JuanorXimeno Plis.

Por Mandado de Nostro Rdo. Padre, Fray Juan de Sto. Domingo Noto.

Notifique esta Patente a el Contenido, en12dias del mes de Abril de1627. Fray Juan Baptista Por.

This Form according to the Originall inSpanishis thus inEnglish, and to this purpose.

FryerJohn XimenoPreacher Generall, and Prior Provinciall of this Province of SaintVincentofChiapaandGuatemala, Order of Preachers.Whereas our Convent of SaintDominickofGuatemalawanteth and stands in need of a Reader of Arts: By these presents I doe institute, name and appoint for Reader FryerThomasof SaintMary, for the great satisfaction which I have of his sufficiency. And I command the Prior of the foresaid our Convent, that hee put him into full possession and enjoyment of the said Office. And for the greater merit of obedience I command him (our forenamed Reader,) by vertue of the Holy Ghost, and of holy obedience, and under a formall precept, In the Name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost, Amen. Dated in this our Convent ofChiapathe Royall, the ninth ofFebruary, 1627. And I commanded these to bee sealed with the great Seale of our Office.Fryer John or Ximeno Pal.By the command of our Reverend Father Fryer John of St. Dominick. Notary.I notified these Letters, Patents, unto the contained in them the12.day of the moneth ofAprill. 1627.Fryer John Baptist. Por.

Fryer John or Ximeno Pal.

By the command of our Reverend Father Fryer John of St. Dominick. Notary.

I notified these Letters, Patents, unto the contained in them the12.day of the moneth ofAprill. 1627.

Fryer John Baptist. Por.

This honour conferred upon mee a stranger, and new commer to the Province, made the Criolian party and some others (who had aymed at that place and preferment in the University) to stomack mee. But to mee it was a spurre to stir and prick mee on to a more eager pursuit of learning, to frequent theAcademylessons with more care and diligence; and to spend my selfe and time, day and night, more in studying, that so I might performe with like honour that which was laid upon mee, and answer the expectation of my best and forwardest friends. Three yeers I continued in this Convent and City in obedience to the forecited Patents; oftentimes I thought within my self that the honour of myEnglishNation here lay upon me inGuatemala, in not suffering anySpaniardto goe beyond mee, or to outbrave mee with gallant, witty and well seeming arguments; and so many times I would at nine of the clock at night, when others were gone to bed, take in my chamber a cup of hot Chocolatte, that with it I might banish sleep from mine eyes, and might the better continue in my study till one or two in the morning, being bound to awake and bee up again by six. I was loath in these three yeers to take upon mee any other of such charges which are common in such Convents; but especially to preach much, and to hear the Confessions of such both men and women as resorted to the Church of that Cloister, lest hereby my studies might bee hindered, and time spent in other waies. Yet the Prior and MasterCabannaswould often bee very importunate with mee, to obtaine the Bishops License for hearing of Confessions, and Preaching abroad in the City and Country (for in the Church of that Cloister I might and did sometimes, though seldome preach with Permission of the Provinciall) but this I strongly refused, untill such time as the Provinciall himselfe came toGuatemala, who hearing me once Preach, would by all meanes have mee further licensed and authorised from the Bishop, that so I might not bee straitned within the Cloisters limits, but abroad in other Churches might freely Preach, and thereby get some money for the better furnishing my selfe with Bookes. Hee therefore commanded mee to bee examined by five examiners all able Divines, for the space of three houres (as is the custome of that Order) and having three houres stood under their hard and rigid questions and examination, having also at the end obtained their approbation, then the Provinciall presented mee unto the Bishop with these words following, being taken out of the Originall yet abiding with mee.

Fray Juan Ximeno Predicador General, y Provincial desta Provincia de San Vicente de Chiapa y Guatemala, Orden de Predicadores, Presento aVuestra Sennoria Illustrissima al Padre Fray Thomas de Sancta Maria, examinado y a provado por cinco examinadores per vota Secreta, conforme a nuestras Constitutiones, Para que Vuestra Sennoria Illustrissima se sirva de darle licencia para Confessar y Predicar a todo genero de Gente en su Obispado, Conforme a la Clementina,Dudum de Sepulturis.A Vuestra Sennoria Illustrissima Suplico le aya por Presentado, y se sirva de dalle la dicha licencia, que en ello recibire merced.Fray Juan or Ximeno, Palis.

A Vuestra Sennoria Illustrissima Suplico le aya por Presentado, y se sirva de dalle la dicha licencia, que en ello recibire merced.

Fray Juan or Ximeno, Palis.

This forme of presentation, used among them, naming the party presenting, and the party presented, is in English much to this purpose.

FrierJohn Ximeno, Preacher Generall, and Provinciall of this Province ofSt. Vincent, ofChiapaandGuatemala, Order of Preachers, do present unto your Lordship the father FrierThomasofSt. Mary(already examined, and approved by five Examiners by secret Votes, according to our Rule and Constitutions) that your Lordship may be pleased to grant him licence to heare Confessions, and to preach to all sorts of people in your Bishoprick, according to that Rule and Canon of PopeClement, beginning with these words,Dudum de Sepulturis.I humbly beseech your Lordship, to have him for presented, and to grant him your foresaid licence, and therein I shall receive great favour.Frier John or Ximeno. Palis.

I humbly beseech your Lordship, to have him for presented, and to grant him your foresaid licence, and therein I shall receive great favour.

Frier John or Ximeno. Palis.

The Bishop ofGuatemalabeing my great friend, and a well-wisher to learning and especially to that Universitie, needed not many words of intreaty, but presently gave me this Licence written on the back-side of the presentation, and that without any further examination by his Clergy and part of his Chapter, which hee may and doth use when he pleaseth.

Nos el Maestro Don Fray Joan de Sandoval, y, Capata, de la Orden de San Augustin por la Divina Gracia Obispo de Guatemala y la Vera Paz, y del Confejo de su Magistad etc. Por la Presente damos licencia al Padre Fray Thomas de Santa Maria de la orden de Predicadores Contenido en la Presentacion de su Religion atras Contenida, Para que en todo este nuestro Obispado pueda Predicar, y Predique la Palabra de Dios, y para que pueda administrar, y administre el Sacramento Santo de la Penitentia generalmente a todas las Personas que con el tubieren Devocion de Confessare (excepto Monias) y a las Personas que Confessare pueda absolver, y absuelva de todos sus pecados, Crimines y excessos, excepto de los casos reservados a su santidad, y a Nos por Direcho. Dada en la Ciudad de Santiago de Guatemala, en quarto de Diziembre de Mill, y Seyscientos, y veynte y nueve Annos.El Obispo de GuatemalaPor Mandado del Illmo. mi Senor Pedro Ramirez de Valdes, Secretario.

El Obispo de Guatemala

Por Mandado del Illmo. mi Senor Pedro Ramirez de Valdes, Secretario.

This forme of licence to preach and heare confessions, from the Bishop ofGuatemala, is worth Englishing for some things in it, which I shall observe with inclosed Parentheses as I goe along for the better reminding my Reader of them.

Wee (Bishops in that Church scorne the name of a singular person, shewing they have the power of all persons joyned together in them, of rich and poore, of subject and Prince) Master and Lord FrierJohn de Sandoval y Capataof the Order of St.Augustin(though brought up in a poore Mendicant Cloister, yet now he takes upon him the Title of a Lord, and shewes how Prelates in that Church use to Lord it over the people) by the Divine Grace Bishop ofGuatemalaand theVera Paz, (he stiles himselfe a Bishop by Divine Grace, whereas he himselfe acording to the common report of him, as also are most Bishops there made, was made Bishop not by any Divine Grace, but by unwarranted Simony and favour from Courtiers, having given many thousand Crownes for that his Bishopricke) of his Majesties Councell (Bishops there must be Counsellors to Kings, and meddle in Court and Politicke affaires) by these Present give licence to Father FrierThomasof SaintMary, of the Order of Preachers, contained in the Presentation from his religious Order on the back-side of this our licence, that throughout all our Bishopricke he may and doe preach the word of God (yet I confesse This word of God is little used in Sermons in that Church, but rather the words of Saints of theirs and Fathers, and lying words of miracles, wherewith they stuffe up a whole houres preaching) and that he may and doe administer the holy Sacrament of Penance (not holy as it came from the mouth of him to whom the Seraphims cry Holy, Holy, Holy, but as it came from the head ofRome,who sacrilegiously stiles himselfe Holinesse and most Holy Father. Not a Sacrament as so left and ordained by Christ, but one ofRomesseven Sacraments, which as it is a City knowne and distinguished by seven hills, so will that Church be knowne and distinguished from the true Church by seven Sacraments) generally to all persons, which shall have devotion to confesse with him, excepting Nuns (this Bishop had in that City one of the six Judges of the Chancery his daughter a Nun calledDonna Juana de Maldonado y Paz,whom he loved dearly, and much conferred with her in private in the Cloister, whose private conferences he was jealous they should be knowne in Confession, and therefore would suffer none to hear Nuns Confessions, but such as were his most intimate friends, and of whom he had great satisfaction, alleadging this reason that such as heard Nuns Confessions ought to be very skilfull and experienced in such waies, and men of age; for that greater cases of Conscience were to be met with in Nuns Confessions, than in others. By which reason he unwisely brought an aspersion upon those Virgins, who should live chastly and holily as separated from the world and inclosed, and yet it seems by this Bishops opinion, that within their inclosed walls sins are committed more grievous then abroad in the wide world, and such as may puzzle a Ghostly Father if not skillfull and ancient) and that he may and doe absolve all persons which shall confesse with him (if onely God can pardon and absolve from sinne, Oh how is Gods power arrogated and taken, yea and abused by those sacrilegious Priests!) from all their sins, crimes, and excesses, excepting such cases as are reserved to his Holinesse, and to us by Canon right. (A wicked rule and Canon, a Government certainly most cruell and tyrannicall, that bindes poor wretches in some cases to goe fromAmericatoRome, at least eight thousand miles to cleare their Consciences before the Pope, or else they must die without pardon and absolution from sinne, many having not meanes to goe thither, nor gifts to bestow upon their Pope, who must be bribed to absolve them. O how more sweet,comfortable and safe is it for a heinous sinner and offendour even at home or in the Church grieving within his heart, and keeping within himselfe, to lift up a broken heart, and make that poste and flie with wings of Eagles to the high Throne of Gods grace and mercy, with assured confidence that there only is pardon, remission and absolution granted to all such as doe truely and unfeignedly repent of their sins, crimes and excesses!) Dated in the City ofSt. James of Guatemala, the fourth day ofDecember, in the yeer of our Lord 1629.The Bishop ofGuatemala.By the Command of my most Illustrious Lord, Peter Ramirez de Valdes.Secretary.

The Bishop ofGuatemala.

By the Command of my most Illustrious Lord, Peter Ramirez de Valdes.Secretary.

Thus with full and ample Commission from the Bishop and the Provinciall was I setled inGuatemala, to read and preach, where, (although I might have continued many yeers and was offered to read Divinity, having in part begun it one quarter of a yeere) I continued yet but three yeers and almost an halfe for the reason I shall shew hereafter. So what in that time I could observe of that City, and of the Countrey round about, having had occasions to travaile about it both when I lived inGuatemala, and afterwards when I lived for above seven yeers in the Countrey Townes, I shall truly and faithfully recommend unto my Reader. This City ofGuatemala(called by the SpaniardsSantiago, orSt. JamesofGuatemala) is seated in a valley, which is not above two miles and a halfe broad, for the high mountaines doe keep it close in; but in length towards the South-sea it continues a wide and champaigne Countrey, opening it selfe broader a little beyond that Towne, which to this day is calledla Ciudad Vieja, or the old City, standing somewhat above three miles fromGuatemala. Though the mountaines on each side doe strongly environ it, and especially on the East-side seem to hang over it, yet none of them are hinderers to Travellers, who over them have opened waies easie for man and beasts though heavily laden with wares of all sorts. The way fromMexico, if taken by the coast ofSoconuzco, andSuchutepequescomes into the City North-west-ward, which is a wide, open and sandy rode; if it be taken byChiapa, it lieth North-east, and entreth into the City between the mountaines, as before hath been noted. West-ward to the South-sea the way lieth open through the valley and a champaigne Countrey. But South or South-East, the entrance is over high and steepy hils, which is the common Rode fromComayagua, Nicaragua, and theGolfo dulceor sweet Gulfe, where the ships come yeerly and unlade all the Commodities which are brought fromSpaineforGuatemala. This also is the way followed by them who take a journey meer East-ward from this City. But the chiefest mountaines, which straighten in this City and valley are two, called Vulcanes, the one being a Vulcan of water, and the other a Vulcan or mountain of fire, termed so by theSpaniards, though very improperly a Vulcan may be said to containe water, it taking its name from the heathenish GodVulcan, whose profession and imployment chiefly was in fire. These two famous mountaines stand almost the one over against the other, on each side of the valley; that of water hanging on the South-side almost perpendicularly over the City, the other of fire standing lower from it, more opposite to the old City. That of water is higher then the other, and yeelds a goodly prospect to the sight, being almost all the yeer green, and full ofIndianMilpa's, which are plantations ofIndianwheat; and in the small and petty Townes which lie some halfe way up it, some at the foot of it, there are Roses, Lillies, and other flowers all the yeer long in the gardens, besides Plantins, Apricockes, and many sorts of sweet and delicate fruits. It is called by theSpaniards, el Vulcan del agua, or the Vulcan of water, because on the other side of it fromGuatemalait springs with many brookes towards a Towne called SaintChristopher, and especially is thought to preserve and nourish on that side also a great lake of fresh water, by the Townes calledAmatitlanandPetapa. But on the side of it towardsGuatemalaand the valley it yeelds also so many springs of sweet and fresh water, as have caused and made a river which runneth along the valley close by the City, and is that which drives the water-mills spoken of before inXocotenango. This river was not known when first theSpaniardsconquered that Country; but since, according to their constant Tradition,the City ofGuatemalastanding higher and neerer to theVulcanin that place and Town which to this day is calledla Ciudad Vieja, or the old City, there lived in it then about the yeer 1534. a Gentlewoman calledDonna Maria de Castilia, who having lost her husband in the warres, and that same yeer buried also all her children, grew so impatient under these her crosses and afflictions, that impiously she defied God, saying, What can God do more unto me now then he hath done? he hath done his worst without it be to take away my life also, which I now regard not. Upon these words there gushed out of this Vulcan such a flood of water as carried away this woman with the streame, ruined many of the houses, and caused the inhabitants to remove to the place where now standethGuatemala. This is theSpaniardsown Tradition, which if true, should be our example to learne to feare and not to defie God, when his judgements shew him to us angry and a God that will overcome, when he judgeth. From that time, and from this their Tradition is the Towne now standing where first stoodGuatemala, calledla Ciudad Vieja, or the old City, and hath continued a river which before was not knowne, having its head and spring from this high Vulcan, whose pleasant springs, gardens, fruits, flowers and every green and flourishing prospect might be a fair object to aMartialswit, who here would fancie a newParnassus, find out new steps of flyingPegasus, and greet the Nymphes and nine Sisters with this their never yet discovered andAmericanhabitation. This Vulcan or mountaine is not so pleasing to the sight (whose height is judged full nine miles unto the top) but the other which standeth on the other side of the valley opposite unto it, is unpleasing and more dreadfull to behold, for here are ashes for beauty, stones and flints for fruits and flowers, baldnesse for greennesse, barrennesse for fruitfulnesse, for water whisperings and fountaine murmurs, noise of thunders and roaring of consuming metals, for running streams, flashings of fire, for tall and mighty trees and Cedars, Castles of smoak rising in height to out-dare the skie and firmament, for sweet and odoriferous and fragrant smels, a stink of fire and brimstone, which are stil in action striving within the bowels of that ever burning and fiery Vulcan. Thus isGuatemalaseated in the midst of a Paradise on the one side and a hell on the other, yet never hath this hell broke so loose as to consume that flourishing City. True it is formerly many yeers agoe it opened a wide mouth on the top, and breathed out such fiery ashes as filled the houses ofGuatemalaand the Country about, and parched all the plants and fruits, and spued out such stones and rockes which had they fallen upon the City would have crushed it to pieces, but they fell not farre from it, but to this day lie about the bottome and sides of it, causing wonder to those that behold them, and taking away admiration from them that admire the force and strength of fire and powder in carrying on a weighty bullet from the mouth of a cannon, whereas here the fire of this mountaine hath cast up into the aire and tumbled downe to the bottom of it such rockes as in bignesse exceed a reasonable house, and which not the strength of any twenty Mules (as hath been tried) have been able to remove. The fire which flasheth out of the top of this mountain is sometimes more and sometimes lesse; yet while I lived in the City, on a certaine time for the space of three or foure dayes and nights it did so burne that my friend Mr.Cabannasconfidently avouched to mee and others, that standing one night in his window he had with the light of that fire read a letter, the distance being above threeEnglishmiles. The roaring also of this monstrous beast is not constantly alike, but is greater in the summer time then in the winter, that is, fromOctoberto the end ofApril, then all the rest of the yeer; for then it seems, the winds entring into those concavities set the fire on work harder then at other times, and cause the mountaine to roare and the earth about to quake. There was a time three yeers before my comming to that City, when the inhabitants expected nothing but utter ruine and destruction, and durst not abide within their houses for nine dayes (the earthquakes continuing and increasing more and more) but made bowers and arbours in the Market place, placing there their Idoll Saints and Images, especially St.Sebastian, whom they hoped would deliver them from that judgement, and for this purpose they dayly carried him through the streets in solemn and idolatrous procession and adoration. But all the while I lived there the noise within the mountaine, the smoake and flashes of fire without, and the Summer earth-quakes were such that with the use and custome of them I never feared any thing, but thought that City the healthiest and pleasantest place of dwelling that ever I came into in all my travels. The climate is very temperate, farre exceeding eitherMexicoorGuaxaca. Neither are the two fore-named Cities betterstored with fruits, herbes for salets, provision of fish, and flesh, Beef, Mutton, Veale, Kid, Fowles, Turkies, Rabbets, Quailes, Partridges, Pheasants, and ofIndianandSpanishWheat, then is this City: from the South Sea (which lyeth in some places not above twelve leagues from it) and from the Rivers of the South Sea Coast, and from the fresh Lake ofAmatitlanandPetapa, and from another Lake lying three or foure leagues fromChimalienango; it is well and plentifully provided for of fish. But for Beef there is such plenty, that it exceeds all parts ofAmerica, without exception, as may be known by the Hydes, which are sent yeerly toSpainfrom the country ofGuatemala, where they commonly kill their Cattell, more for the game of their Hydes inSpain, then for the goodnesse or fatnesse of the flesh, which though it bee not to bee compared to ourEnglishBeef, yet it is good mans meat, and so cheap, that in my time it was commonly sold at thirteene pound and a halfe for half a Riall, the least coyne there, and as much as three pence here. Though all about this Country there are very great and spatious Estancia's, or Farmes for breeding onely, even neer to theGolfo Dulce, where the ships ride that come fromSpain, yet fromComayagua, St.SalvadorandNicaragua, isGuatemalastored; But above all are the great Estancia's in the South Sea Coast or Marsh, where in my time there was a Grazier that reckoned up going in his owne Estancia and ground, forty thousand heads of Beasts, small and great, besides many which are called there Simarrones, or wild Cattell, which were strayed among the Woods and Mountaines, and could not bee gathered in with the rest, but were hunted by the Blackmores like wild Bores, and daily shot to death, least they should too much increase and doe hurt. My selfe chanced to bee present at the Fair of the Town ofPetapa, with a friend namedLope de Chaves, (who was as they call there, Obligado, or charged to provide flesh for six or seven Townes thereabouts) who at one bargain, and of one man, bought six thousand head of Cattell, great and small, paying one with another eighteen Rials, or nine English shillings a head.

The manner and custome ofGuatemalafor the better providing both Beef and Mutton for it, and the Country Townes about, is this. Nine daies before Michaelmas, every day Proclamation is made about the City for an Obligado, or one that will bee bound to the City and Country for competent provision of Flesh meat upon forfeiture of such a summe of money to his Majesty, if hee faile, as shall bee agreed upon between him and the Court, and to the Inhabitants of the City; if hee fail in beef, hee is to allow in Mutton so many pounds at the same rate as hee should have allowed beef. If the Obligado faile in Mutton, hee is to allow in Fowle flesh, so many pounds and at the same rate as hee was to allow the Mutton; and this with consideration of the family, what competent allowance of flesh meat shall bee judged for a day, or the dayes that the Obligado shall fail. Besides this the Proclamation is made for whom offers most to his Majesty for one yeers Obligation. So that sometimes it happeneth that the eight daies severall men come into the Court, offering more and more, till upon the ninth day and last Proclamation, the Office is setled for one yeere upon him that hath offered most unto his Majesty. Thus many Butchers are not allowed but one onely Obligado, who also is abridged to so many pound for so much mony, so that if any other besides him offer to kill or sell, he may follow an action and the Court against him: Thus the Obligado (who commonly is a monied man) buyeth by the hundred or by the thousand, as for the present hee findeth the expence of the City, without hee bee himself such a Grazier, as hath Cattell enough of his owne. Though Mutton bee not so plentifull as is Beef, yet there never wants from the Valley ofMixco, Pinola, Petapa, andAmatitlan, and theMarshand other places. In the Valley fore-named I lived, and was well acquainted with oneAlonso Capata, who had constantly going in the Valley four thousand sheep.Guatemalatherefore is so well stored with good provision, plentifull and cheap, that it is hard to finde in it a begger, for with halfe a Riall the poorest may buy beef for a weeke, and with a few Cacao's they may have bread ofIndianMaiz, if not ofSpanishWheat. This City may consist of about five thousand families, besides a Suburb ofIndianscalledel Barrio de Sto. Domingo, where may bee two hundred families more. The best part of the City is that which joyneth to this Suburb ofIndians, and is called alsoel Barrio Santo de Domingo, by reason of the Cloister of SaintDominickwhich standeth in it. Here are the richest and best shops of the City, with the best buildings, most of the houses being new, and stately. Here is also a dayly Tianguez (as they call it) or petty Market, where someIndiansall the day sit selling fruits, Herbs, and Cacao, but at the foure in the afternoone, this Market is filled for a matter of an houre, where theIndianwomen meet to sell their Country slap, (which is dainties to the Criolians) as Atolle, Pinole, scalded Plantins, butter of the Cacao, puddings made ofIndianMaiz, with a bit of Fowle or fresh Porke in them seasoned with much red biting Chile, which they call Anacatamales. The trading of the City is great, for by Mules it partakes of the best commodities ofMexico, GuaxacaandChiapa, and Southward ofNicaragua, andCostarica. By Sea it hath commerce withPeru, by two Sea Ports and Havens, the one calledla Villa de la Trinidad, the Village of the Trinity, which lyeth Southward from it five and twenty leagues; and by another calledel Realejo, which lyeth five or six and forty leagues from it. It hath traffique withSpainby the North Sea fromGolfo dulce, lying threescore leagues from it. It is not so rich as other Cities, yet for the quantity of it, it yeelds to none. There were in my time five (besides many other Merchants who were judged worth twenty thousand Duckats, thirty thousand, fifty thousand, some few a hundred thousand) who were judged of equall wealth, and generally reported to bee worth each of them five hundred thousand Duckats; the first wasThomas de Siliezer, a Biscain born, andAlcalde de Corte, the Kings High Justice, or chief Officer at Court; the second wasAntonio Justiniano, aGenovoisborn, and one that bore often Offices in the City, and had many Tenements and houses, especially a great and rich Farme for corn and Wheat in the Valley ofMexico. The third wasPedro de Lira, born inCastilia, the fourth and fifth,Antonio Fernandez, andBartolome Nunnez, bothPortingals, whereof the first in my time departed fromGuatemalafor some reasons which here I must conceale. The other foure I left there, the three of them living at that end of the City calledBarrio de Santo Domingo, or the street of St.Dominick, whose houses and presence makes that street excell all the rest of the City, and their wealth and trading were enough to denominateGuatemalaa very rich City. The Government of all the Country about, and of allHonduras, Soconusco, Comayagua, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Vera Paz, Suchutepeques, andChiapa, is subordinate unto the Chancery ofGuatemala; for although every Governour over these severall Provinces is appointed by the King and Councell ofSpain, yet when they come to those parts to the enjoyment of their charge and execution office, then their actions, if unjust, are weighed, judged, censured, and condemned by the Court residing in the City. This Court of Chancery consisteth of a President, six Judges, one Kings Attourney, and two chief Justices of Court. The President, though hee have not the name and title of Viceroy, as they ofMexicoandPeru, yet his power is as great and absolute as theirs. His Pension from the King is but twelve thousands Duckats a yeer; but besides this, if he be covetous, hee makes by bribes and trading twice as much more, nay what hee list, as was seen in theCount de la Gomera, President of that City and Chancery for the space of fourteen yeers, who departed in old age fromGuatemalatoCanaria(where was his house and place of birth) worth Millions of Duckats. After him succeededDon Juan de Guzman, formerly President ofSanto Domingo, who losing his Wife and Lady in the way, lost also his former spirit and courage, betaking himselfe wholly to his devotions, contemning wealth and riches, governing with love and mildnesse, which made the rest of the Judges, who were all for lucre, soone weary him out of his office, continuing in it but five yeers. His successor (whom I left there when I came away) wasDon Gonzalo de Paz y Lorencana, who was promoted from the Presidency ofPanamato that place, and came into it with such a spirit of covetousnesse as the like had not been seen in any former President. Hee forbad all gaming in private houses in the City, which there is much used (though by women not so much as inMexico) not for that hee hated it, but because hee envied others, what they got and gained by their Cards, drawing to himselfe thereby all that gaine, spending sometimes in one night foure and twenty paire of Cards, appointing a Page to assist at the Tables, and to see the box well paid for every paire of Cards, which for his, and his Court respect, was seldome lesse then a crown or two for every paire. Thus did hee lick up with his Cards most of the gamesters gaines, and would grudge and pick quarrels with such rich men whom hee knew to affect gaming, if they frequented not his Court at night time for that bewitching Recreation.

The Pension which the King alloweth to every Judge of Chancery is foure thousandduckats yeerly, and three thousand to his Attorney, all which is paid out of the Kings Exchequer abiding in that City. Yet what besides they get by bribes, and trading is so much, that I have heard a Judge himselfeDon Luis de las Infantassay, that though a Judges place atMexicoandLimabe more honourable, yet none more profitable thenGuatemala. In my time were such causes at Chancery tried, as had never been, of murthers, robberies, and oppressions, and whereas it was expected the offendants some should be hanged, some banished, some imprisoned, some by fines impoverished, bribes took all off, so that I never knew one hanged in that City for the space of above eight yeers. The Churches though they be not so fair and rich as those ofMexico, yet they are for that place wealthy enough. There is but one Parish Church and a Cathedrall which standeth in the chiefe Market-place. All the other Churches belong to Cloisters, which are of Dominicans, Franciscans, Mercenarians, Augustines, and Jesuites, and two of Nuns, called the Conception andSt. Catharine. The Dominicans, Franciscans, and Mercenarians are stately Cloisters, containing neer a hundred Friers a piece; but above all is the Cloister where I lived, of the Dominicans, to which is joyned in a great Walk before the Church the Universitie of the City. The yeerly revenues which come into this Cloister, what from theIndianTowns belonging to it, what from a water-mill, what from a farme for corne, what from an Estancia, or farme for Horses and Mules, what from an Ingenio, or farme of Sugar, what from a Mine of silver given unto it the yeer 1633. are judged to be (excepting all charges) at least thirty thousand duckats; wherewith those fat Friers feast themselves, and have to spare to build, and enrich their Church and Altars. Besides much treasure belonging to it, there are two things in it, which theSpaniardsin merriment would often tell me that theEnglishnation did much inquire after, when they tooke any ship of theirs at sea, and that they feared I was come to spie them, which were a Lampe of silver hanging before the high Altar, so big as required the strength of three men to hale it up with a rope; but the other is of more value; which is a picture of the VirginMaryof pure silver, and of the stature of a reasonable tall woman, which standeth in a Tabernacle made on purpose in a Chappel of the Rosary with at least a dozen lampes of silver also burning before it. A hundred thousand duckats might soone be made up of the treasure belonging to that Church and cloister. Within the walls of the Cloister there is nothing wanting which may further pleasure and recreation. In the lower Cloister there is a spatious garden, in the midst whereof is a fountains casting up the water, and spouting it out of at least a dozen pipes, which fill two ponds full of fishes, and with this their constant running give musicke to the whole Cloister, and encouragement to many water-fowles and Ducks to bath and wash themselves therein. Yet further within the Cloister, there are other two gardens for fruits and herbage, and in the one a pond of a quarter of a mile long, all paved at the bottom, and a low stone wall about, where is a boat for the Friers recreation, who often goe thither to fish, and doe sometimes upon a suddaine want or occasion take out from thence as much fish as will give to the whole Cloister a dinner. The other Cloisters of the City are also rich; but next to the Dominicans is the Cloister of Nuns, called the Conception, in which at my time there were judged to live a thousand women, not all Nuns, but Nuns, and their serving maids or slaves, and yong children which were brought up and taught to worke by the Nuns. The Nuns that are professed bring with them their portions, five hundred duckats the least, some six hundred, some seven, and some a thousand, which portions after a few yeers (and continuing to the Cloister after the Nuns decease) come to make up a great yeerly rent. They that will have maids within to wait on them may, bringing the bigger portion, or allowing yeerly for their servants diet. In this Cloister lived thatDonna Juana de MaldonadoJudgeJuan Maldonado de Pazhis daughter, whom the Bishop so much conversed withall. She was very fair and beautifull, and not much above twenty yeers of age, and yet his love blinding him, he strove what he could in my time against all the ancient Nuns and Sisters, to make her Superiour and Abbesse, and caused such a mutiny and strife in that Cloister, which was very scandalous to the whole City, and made many rich Merchants and Gentlemen run to the Cloister with their swords drawne, threatning to breake in amongst the Nuns to defend their daughters against the powerfull faction which the Bishop had wrought forDonna Juana de Maldonado: which they had performed if the PresidentDon Juan de Guzmanhad not sentJuan Maldonado de Paz, the yong Nuns father, to intreat her to desist in regardof her yong age from her ambitious thoughts or being Abbesse. With this the mutiny both within and without ceased, the Bishop got but shame, and his yong Sister continued as before under command and obedience, to a more religious, grave, and aged Nun then her selfe. ThisDonna Juana de Maldonado y Pazwas the wonder of all that Cloister, yea of all the City for her excellent voice, and skill in musicke, and in carriage, and education yeelded to none abroad nor within; she was witty, well spoken and above all aCalliope, or Muse for ingenious and suddain verses; which the Bishop said, so much moved him to delight in her company and conversation. Her father thought nothing too good, nor too much for her; and therefore having no other children, he daily conferred upon her riches, as might best beseem a Nun, as rich and costly Cabinets faced with gold and silver, pictures and Idols for her chamber with crownes and jewels to adorne them; which with other presente from the Bishop (who dying in my time left not wherewith to pay his debts, for that as the report went, he had spent himselfe and given all unto this Nun) made thisDonna Juana de Maldonadoso rich and stately, that at her owne charges shee built for herselfe a new quarter within the Cloister with roomes and galleries, and a private garden-walke, and kept at worke and to wait on her halfe a dozenBlack-moremaids; but above all she placed her delight in a private Chappel or Closet to pray in, being hung with rich hangings, and round about it costly lamina's (as they call them) or pictures painted upon brasse set in blacke Ebony frames with corners of gold, some of silver brought to her fromRome; her Altar was accordingly decked with Jewels, Candlesticks, Crownes, Lamps, and covered with a Canopie embroidered with gold; in her Closet she had her small organ, and many sorts of musicall instruments, whereupon she played sometimes by herselfe, sometimes with her best friends of the Nuns; and here especially she entertained with musicke her beloved the Bishop. Her Chappel or place of devotion was credibly reported about the City to be worth at least six thousand Crownes, which was enough for a Nun that had vowed chastity, poverty, and obedience. But all this after her decease she was to leave to the Cloister; and doubtlesse with this State, and riches she would win more and more the hearts of the common sort of Nuns, till she had made a strong party, which by this may have made her Abbesse. Thus is ambition and desire of command and power crept into the walls of Nunneries, like the abominations in the wall ofEzekiel, and hath possessed the hearts of Nuns, which should be humble, poore, and mortified Virgins.

But besides this one Nun, there are many more, and also Friers, who are very rich, for if the City be rich (as is this) and great trading in it, they will be sure to have a share. Great plenty and wealth hath made the inhabitants as proud and vicious, as are those ofMexico. Here is not onely Idolatry, but Fornication and uncleannesse as publike as in any place of theIndia's: TheMulatto's, Black-mores, Mestica's, Indians, and all common sort of people are much made on by the greater and richer sort, and goe as gallantly apparrelled as doe those ofMexico, fearing neither a Vulcan or mountaine of water on the one side, which they confesse hath once powred out a flood and river executing Gods wrath against sin there committed; neither a Vulcan of fire, or mouth of hell on the other side, roaring within and threatning to raine upon themSodomsruine and destruction; neither the weakness of their habitation; lying wide open on every side, without walls, or workes, or bulwarkes, to defend them, or without guns, drakes, bullets, or any Ammunition to scare away an approaching enemy, who may safely come and without resistance upon them who live as professed enemies of Jesus Christ. This is the City ofSt. JamesorSantiago de Guatemala, the head of a vaste and ample Dominion, which extendeth it selfe nine hundred miles toNicoyaandCosta RicaSouth-ward; three hundred miles toChiapaandZoquesNorth-ward; a hundred and fourescore miles to the further parts ofVera Paz, and theGolfo dulceEast-ward; and to the South-sea twenty or thirty, in some places fourty miles West-ward.

FromTecoantepeque(which is no harbour for any great ships) which standeth fromGuatemalaat least foure hundred miles, there is no landing place for ships neerer to this City then is the villagede la Trinidad, or of the Trinity. The chiefe commodities which from along that coast are brought toGuatemala, are from the Provinces ofSoconuzcoandSuchutepeques, which are extreame hot, and subject to thunder and lightning, where groweth scarce any remarkeable commodity, save onlyCacao, Achiotte,Mechasuchil, Bainillasand other drugs for Chocolatte, except it be someIndigoandCochinilaboutSt. Antonio, which is the chiefe and head Town of all theSuchutepeques. But all the coast neer joyning toGuatemala, especially about a Towne calledIzquinta, orIzquintepequetwelve leagues fromGuatemala, is absolutely the richest part of the Dominion of this City; for there is made the greatest part of theIndigowhich is sent fromHondurastoSpaine, besides the mighty farmes of Cattel which are all along that marsh. Though the living there be profitable and the soile rich, yet it is uncomfortable by reason of the great heat, thundrings and lightnings, especially fromMaytoMichaelmas. IfGuatemalabe strong (though not in weapons or Ammunition) in people, it is strong from hence from a desperate sort ofBlack-mores, who are slaves in those Estancia's and farms ofIndigo. Though they have no weapons but a Machette, which is a short Tuck, or lances to run at the wild Cattel, yet with these they are so desperate, that the City ofGuatemalahath often been afraid of them, and the Masters of their owne slaves and servants. Some of them feare not to encounter a Bull though wild and mad, and to graple in the rivers (which are many there) with Crocodiles, or Lagarto's, as there they call them, till they have overmastered them, and brought them out to land from the water.

This hot, but rich Country runnes on by the Sea side unto the Village of the Trinity, which (though somewhat dangerous) yet is a haven for ships fromPanama, Peru, andMexico; It serves to enrichGuatemala, but not to strengthen it, for it hath neither Fort, nor Bulwarke, nor Castle, nor any Ammunition to defend it selfe. Between this Village and the other Haven calledRealejo, there is a great Creek from the Sea; where small vessels doe use to come in for fresh water and Victuals to St.Miguela Towne ofSpaniardsandIndians, from whence those that travaile toRealejopasse over in lesse then a day to a Town ofIndianscalledLa Vieja, two miles fromRealejo, whither the journey by land from St.Miguelis of at least three daies. But neither this Creeke or Arme of the Sea is fortified (which might be done with one or two peeces of Ordnance at most placed at the mouth of the seas entrance) neither is theRealejostrong with any Ammunition, no nor with people, for it consists not of above two hundred families, and most of them areIndiansandMestico's, a people of no courage, and very unfit to defend such an open passage toGuatemalaandNicaragua, which here begins and continues in small and pettyIndianTownes untoLeonandGranada.

On the North side ofGuatemalaI shall not need to adde to what hath been said ofSuchutepequesandSoconuzco, and my journy that way fromMexicoandChiapa. The chiefe side ofGuatemalais that on the East, which points out the way to the Golfe, orGolfo dulce, or as others call itSt. Thomas de Castilia. This way is more beaten by Mules and Travellers, then that on the North side, for thatMexicostandeth three hundred leagues from this City, and the Golfe but threescore, and no such passages as are in some places in the Rode toMexico. Besides the great trading, commerce, and traffique, which this City injoyeth by that Golfe fromSpaine, hath made that rode exceed all the rest. InJulyor at furthest in the beginning ofAugustcome into that Golfe three ships, or two, and frigate, and unlade what they have brought fromSpaininBodega'sor great Lodges, built on purpose to keep dry and from the weather the commodities. They presently make hast to lade againe fromGuatemalathose Merchants commodities of returne, which peradventure have lien waiting for them in theBodega'stwo or three moneths before the ships arrivall. So that these three moneths ofJuly, AugustandSeptember, there is sure to be found a great treasure. And O the simplicity or security of theSpaniards, who appoint no other watch over these their riches, save only one or twoIndiansand as manyMulatto's, who commonly are such as have for their misdemeanours been condemned to live in that old and ruinated Castle ofS. Thomas de Castilia! True it is, above it there is a little and ragged Town ofIndians, calledS. Pedro, consisting of some thirty families, who by reason of the exceeding heat, and unhealthinesse of the air, are alwaies sickly and scarce able to stand upon their legs. But the weakenesse of this Golfe within might well bee remedied and supplyed at the mouth of the sea, or entrance into it by one or two at the most good peeces of Ordnance placed there. For the entrance into this Golfe is but as one should come in at the doore of some great Palace, where although the dore and entrance be narrow, the house within is wide and capacious. Such is this Golfe, whose entrance is straitned with two rocks or mountaines on each side (which would well become two great Peeces,and so scorne a whole fleet, and secure a Kingdome ofGuatemala, nay most of allAmerica) but here being no watch nor defence, the ships come freely and safely in (as have done some bothEnglishandHollandships) and being entred find a rode and harbour so wide and capacious as may well secure a thousand ships there riding at anchor, without any thought of feare fromSt. Pedro, orSanto Thomas de Castilia. I have often heard theSpaniardsjear and laugh at theEnglishandHollanders, for that they having come into this Golfe, have gone away without attempting any thing further upon the land. Nay while I lived there, theHollandersset uponTruxillothe head Port ofComayaguaandHonduras, and tooke it (though there were some resistance) the people for the most part flying to the woods, trusting more to their feet then to their hands and weapons (such cowards is all that Countrey full of) and whilst they might have fortified themselves there and gone into the Countrey, or fortifying that have come on to the Golfe (allGuatemalafearing it much and not being able to resist them) they leftTruxillocontenting themselves with a small pillage, and gave occasion to theSpaniardsto rejoyce and to make processions of thanksgiving for their safe deliverance out of their enemies hands.

The way from this Golfe toGuatemalais not so bad as some report and conceive, especially afterMichaelmasuntillMay, when the winter and rain is past and gone, and the winds begin to dry up the waies. For in the worst of the yeer Mules laden with four hundred waight at least goe easily thorow the steepest, deepest, and most dangerous passages of the mountaines that lie about this Golfe. And though the waies are at that time of the yeer bad, yet they are so beaten with the Mules, and so wide and open, that one bad step and passage may be avoided for a better; and the worst of this way continues but fifteen leagues, there being Rancho's, or Lodges in the way, Cattel and Mules also among the woods and mountaines, for reliefe and comfort to a weary Traveller. What theSpaniardsmost feare untill they come out of these mountaines, are some two or three hundredBlack-mores, Simarrones, who for too much hard usage, have fled away fromGuatemalaand other parts from their Masters unto these woods, and there live and bring up their children and encrease daily, so that all the power ofGuatemala, nay all the Countrey about (having often attempted it) is not able to bring them under subjection. These often come out to the rode way, and set upon the Requa's of Mules, and take of Wine, Iron, clothing and weapons from them as much as they need, without doing any harme unto the people, or slaves that goe with the Mules; but rather these rejoyce with them, being of one colour, and subject to slavery and misery which the others have shaken off; by whose example and encouragement many of these also shake off their misery, and joyne with them to enjoy libertie, though it be but in the woods and mountaines. Their weapons are bowes and arrows which they use and carry about them, onely to defend themselves, if theSpaniardsset upon them; else they use them not against theSpaniards, who travell quietly and give them part of what provision they carry. These have often said that the chiefe cause of their flying to those mountaines is to be in a readinesse to joyne with theEnglishorHollanders, if ever they land in that Golfe; for they know, from them they may injoy that liberty which theSpaniardswill never grant unto them. After the first fifteen leagues the way is better, and there are little Towns and villages ofIndians, who relieve with provision both man and beast. Fifteen leagues further is a great Town ofIndians, calledAcasabastlan, standing upon a river, which for fish is held the best all that Country. Though here are many sorts, yet above all there is one which they call Bobo, a thick round fish as long or longer then a mans arme, with onely a middle bone, as white as milke, at fat as butter, and good to boil, fry, stew or bake. There is also from hence most of the way toGuatemalain brooks and shallow rivers, one of the best sort of fishes in the world, which theSpaniardsjudge to be a kind of Trout, it is called there Tepemechin, the fat whereof resembles veal more than fish.

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