Cut six small veal cotelettes, do not lard them, put six tablespoonfols of oil in a sauté-pan, in which fry the cotelettes; when done pour off a little of the oil, put four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, one of chopped parsley, one of chopped mushrooms, and twenty of brown sauce (No. 1) seasoned rather high, moisten with a little stock and simmer altogether twenty minutes, place the cotelettes on a dish in the sauce to get cold, cut six pieces of paper in the shape of hearts, oil them, and put a cotelette in each with as much of the sauce as possible around, fold each one up, plaiting it at the edges, broil them twenty minutes over a slow fire, and dress them in a circle on your dish without removing the papers.
Cut four large cotelettes, which season well, dip them in a basin containing two eggs well beaten, then throw them into a dish of bread-crumbs, in which you have mixed some finely chopped eschalots and parsley, beat them with your knife, dip them into warm clarified butter, and again into the bread-crumbs, beat again with your knife, and broil them nicely over a sharp fire; have in a stewpan six or eight well boiled mealy potatoes, add four pats of butter and a little pepper and salt, mash them well with a fork, adding a gill of cream by degrees, mixing quickly they will be very light, dress them in a pyramid on your dish, glaze the cotelettes, which stand upright against the potatoes, and serve; this is an excellent dish for luncheon.
Are prepared exactly in the same manner as described for the flancs (No. 565), only they are not required so large, half the noix being quite sufficient, that is, cut into two slices, trim it of a nice shape, lard, dress, and serve, with the sauces as described for the flancs.
Cut twelve fillets from a noix de veau the size and shape of fillets of fowl, lard them nicely with very finely cut bacon, cover the bottom of a convenient-sized sauté-pan with thin slices of fat bacon, upon which lay the grenadins, add a little veal stock but not enough to cover them, place a sheet of buttered paper over and stand them in a moderate oven for an hour or till tender, moistening occasionally with a little of the stock; when done glaze them lightly and salamander of a light colour, then have prepared twenty young carrots and twenty young turnips, which cook as directed (No. 109), dish the grenadins in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, place a pyramid of the potatoes in the centre of the dish, upon which dress the carrots and turnips in rotation; have ready the following sauce: put the glaze from your vegetables in a stewpan, with half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and a little good stock, place it on the fire, skim, and reduce until rather thick; sauce over your vegetables and serve.
Grenadins may be served with any of the sauces as described for noix de veau or sweetbreads.
The kidney being part of the loin is usually served with it, and a loin of veal roasted without it would be considered worthless, but still the loins may be dressed, as directed inthe Removes, without the kidneys; to stew them proceed as follows: cut three kidneys into thin slices, put an ounce of butter into a convenient-sized stewpan, place over the fire, and just as it begins to get brown throw in the kidneys, stir them over the fire with a wooden spoon, and when they become firm add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir it in, then add a glass of sherry, eight spoonfuls of broth, and twenty mushrooms, let all boil together five minutes, season with a little pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the juice of half a lemon, if too thick add more broth, pour them on a dish and serve, or they would look better served in a croustade of bread (No. 416) fried a nice yellow colour.
Proceed exactly as described for ris de veau en caisses (No. 681).
Make two pounds of veal forcemeat as directed (No. 120), cover the sides of a plain round mould with vegetables, precisely as directed for a Chartreuse (No. 604), then cut a piece of bread quite round, the depth of the mould, cover the bread with white buttered paper, and stand it in the centre of the mould,[8]leaving the space of an inch and a half all round, which fill up with the forcemeat, being careful not to disarrange the vegetables; when well filled, put the mould in a stewpan, cover with a piece of stiff paper, put water enough in the stewpan to come three parts of the way up the mould, place the stewpan over the fire and let it simmer gently (keeping it covered) nearly an hour, turn it out on your dish, take the bread and paper from the centre, sauce over with a good demi-glace (No. 9), and serve.
Butter a plain round mould rather thickly, have five or six good-sized truffles chopped very fine, throw them in the mould, which roll round until the sides are quite covered with them; then prepare a piece of bread as in the last, fill the space up with the same forcemeat, blanch it in a stewpan as before, turn out on your dish, take away the bread, and serve with a sauce Périgueux (No. 55) over it.
For entrées the small South Down mutton is much to be preferred, the principal entrées made from mutton are cotelettes, which never will be out of vogue; I shall therefore give a numerous list of receipts for the dressing of them, but the manner of cutting them requires particular attention; the most simple method is to take the chine-bone off from the neck neatly with a saw, but not quite detaching all the meat from the bone, then cut it into chops, leaving a bone to each; with a knife cut off the skinny part from each side of the bone and a piece of the meat at the end of the bone, so as to leave a piece of bone about half an inch in length, then with a cotelette-bat beat them nearly to the same thickness as the bone, take the rough parts of the bone off with your chopper, and trim the cotelettes of a good shape, taking off a greater part of the fat and rounding the lean part nicely; but in cutting cotelettes to look well, much depends upon the taste of the person, they require to be cut some time previous to cooking, or they would shrink and loose their shape.
Chop a quarter of a pound of lean cooked ham very fine,
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and mix it with the same quantity of bread-crumbs, then have ten very nice cotelettes, lay them flat on your table, season lightly with pepper and salt, egg over with a paste-brush, and throw them into the ham and bread-crumbs, then beat them lightly with a knife, put ten spoonfuls of oil in a sauté-pan, place it over the fire, and when quite hot lay in the cotelettes, fry nearly ten minutes (over a moderate fire) of a light brown colour; to ascertain when done, press your knife upon the thick part, if quite done it will feel rather firm; possibly they may not all be done at one time, so take out those that are ready first and lay them on a cloth till the others are done; as they require to be cooked with the gravy in them, dress upon a thin border of mashed potatoes in a crown, with the bones pointing outwards, sauce over with a pint of the sauce reform (No. 35), and serve. If for a large dinner you may possibly be obliged to cook the cotelettes half an hour before, in which case they must be very underdone, and laid in a clean sauté-pan, with two or three spoonfuls of thin glaze; keep them in the hot closet, moistening them occasionally with the glaze (with a paste-brush) until ready to serve; the same remark applies to every description of cotelettes.
Cut, bread-crumb, and fry ten mutton cotelettes as in the last, but let them be rather underdone, then have ready six large quenelles of veal (No. 120) quite cold, mash them in a basin with a wooden spoon, then add a teaspoonful of very finely chopped eschalots, two of chopped parsley, and a little grated nutmeg, with a tablespoonful of cold white sauce (No. 7) and the yolk of an egg; mix all well together, and put a piece of the size of a walnut upon each cotelette, spread it even, then have ten thin small slices of cooked ham, place a slice upon each cotelette, which again cover withthe forcemeat, forming a flattish dome, but not too thick; egg over with a paste-brush, sprinkle with bread-crumbs, put again into the sauté-pan, and place them in a moderate oven ten minutes, salamander a light colour, dress in crown on a thin border of mashed potatoes, and have ready the following sauce: put two yolks of eggs in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a little pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of vinegar from India pickles, and a little lemon-juice, stir it quickly over the fire with a wooden spoon until beginning to thicken, then add ten tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7) with four of milk, stir over the fire, but do not let it boil, then pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, stir it another minute over the fire, sauce over, have two firm green India pickles and half an ounce of lean cooked ham chopped very fine, which sprinkle over and serve very hot.
Prepare ten cotelettes as in the last, mixing chopped Westphalia ham with the bread-crumbs instead of the common ham, likewise sprinkling ham over the forcemeat instead of bread-crumbs, place them in the oven as before, and salamander a nice colour, dress in crown as in the last, and have ready the following sauce: pound a quarter of a pound of lean Westphalia cooked ham very fine, add two ounces of butter and pass it through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon, then put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan with six spoonfuls of consommé (No. 134) and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut; reduce and skim till becoming a good demi-glace, add two tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce, a little sugar, and the butter with the ham, stir over the fire until the butter is melted, sauce over and serve.
Have ready ten cotelettes, season with a little pepper and salt, egg with a paste-brush, and dip them into bread-crumbs, beat lightly with a knife and fry in oil, but very much underdone, lay them on a cloth, and have ready the following: chop six middling-sized onions very fine and put them in a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of oil, pass them over a moderate fire ten minutes, keeping stirred with a wooden spoon, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and four tablespoonfuls of good stock, boil altogether a quarter of an hour or till the onions are quite tender, season with a little pepper, salt, and nearly a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, draw the stewpan off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs, place over the fire another minute, pour it out on a dish to get cold, place a piece the size of a large walnut upon each cotelette, spread it over with a knife, leaving it thickest in the middle; egg them with a paste-brush, sprinkle bread-crumbs over, drop a little oil on each, put them in the same sauté-pan, place in the oven ten minutes, salamander a light brown, and dress them on your dish as before; have ready the following sauce: put nearly a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, and eight spoonfuls of consommé (No. 134); reduce and skim well till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little scraped garlic the size of a couple of peas, sauce over and serve; more garlic may be added if approved of.
Have twelve good cotelettes well-trimmed, lay them in a basin and pour a quart of good marinade hot over them (see filet de bœuf à la Bohémienne, No. 426), let them remain four or five days, turning them occasionally; whenwanted take them out, dry on a cloth, dip in flour and broil them quickly over a sharp fire, dress in crown like the cotelettes reform, and have ready the following sauce: a gill of the marinade in a stewpan, with two spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), six of brown sauce, and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, reduce till it becomes half glaze again, then add a spoonful of red-currant jelly, three anchovies well washed, and cut into small diamond-shaped pieces, also twenty pieces of gherkins cut in the same shape, let warm in the sauce, which pour over and serve. The cotelettes may be bread-crumbed if required.
Prepare twelve cotelettes, season with a little pepper and salt, egg over with a paste-brush, and throw them into bread-crumbs, beat lightly with a knife, and fry them in clarified butter in a sauté-pan, dress on your dish as before, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47) under, glaze lightly when dressing them on your dish.
Egg, bread-crumb, and fry twelve cotelettes in oil, when done take out and lay them on a cloth, put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots and two of chopped onions in the sauté-pan, fry them a light brown colour, pour off as much oil as possible, add half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and a little consommé, let boil quickly ten minutes, then add a little sugar, cayenne pepper, half a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, the same of chopped parsley, and one teaspoonful of Harvey sauce, put the cotelettes into the sauce to get hot, have ready four paper cases six inches long, lay three cotelettes in each, pour the sauce over, place them in a moderate oven ten minutes, dress on your dish in the cases and serve immediately.
Prepare and fry twelve cotelettes as directed for cotelettes à la Soubise, dress in crown and proceed as for the grenadins de veau (No. 692), glaze them lightly and serve.
Dress the cotelettes as above, glaze lightly and serve with sauce piquante (No. 27) over them.
Dress twelve cotelettes as before described, dish as usual, have ready a sauce jardinière (No. 100), place the vegetables, and sauce in the centre, glaze the cotelettes lightly, and serve.
Dress and dish twelve cotelettes as in the last, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, with a little consommé, reduce it a little, and skim; then add thirty mushrooms, season with a little pepper and sugar, add a small piece of glaze half the size of a walnut, and boil altogether ten minutes; pour the sauce in the middle of the cotelettes, which glaze and serve.
Dress and dish twelve cotelettes as in the last, have prepared forty scoops of turnips, each the size of a marble, put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, and a teaspoonful of sugar, pass over a fire ten minutes, keeping them tossed, to prevent their burning, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and half a do. of consommé, stand it on the corner of the stove, skim well, and let it remain till the turnips are tender, and the sauce becomes ratherthick; then pour it in the centre of the cotelettes, which glaze and serve; should the turnips be done before the sauce is thick, take them out with a colander spoon until it has sufficiently reduced.
Dress and dish twelve cotelettes as before, have ready the following sauce: scoop forty scoops of Jerusalem artichokes the size of the turnips in the last, and proceed exactly the same, using white sauce (No. 7), and white stock instead of brown, and finishing with a good tablespoonful of liaison; serve as before; they must not be boiled too quickly, or they will break to pieces.
Prepare and dress the cotelettes as before, have ready boiled, very green, half a bundle of sprue grass cut into pieces a quarter of an inch in length, put eight tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), with four of white stock in a stewpan, and when a little reduced add the sprue, with half a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a little salt; let boil a minute, and finish with a liaison of half a yolk of egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, sauce in the centre of the cotelettes, which glaze lightly, and serve. When sprue grass is cheap, dress it thus for cotelettes: you have cut and boiled a bunch very green; drain it upon a sieve, and whilst hot put them into a stewpan, with six pats of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and the half of one of sugar; place over the fire, stirring round gently until the butter is melted, then dress them in a pyramid in the centre of the cotelettes, pour a thin bechamel sauce round, glaze the cotelettes, and serve. By this simple method you retain the full flavour of the grass.
Proceed exactly as before, using some French beans cut in diamonds and nicely boiled, instead of the sprue grass, dress the beans in either of the above methods.
Dress and dish your cotelettes as usual, have ready, nicely boiled, a pint of young peas (No. 1075) which put in a stewpan with an ounce of fresh butter, two spoonfuls of white sauce, a bunch of green onions, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little salt; keep them moving over the fire by shaking the stewpan till they are quite hot; take out the onions, finish with a liaison of a yolk of egg and two tablespoonfuls of cream, dress the peas in the centre, glaze the cotelettes, and serve. The peas may also be dressed in either of the methods directed in the two last.
Dress the cotelettes as before, have nicely boiled two small cauliflowers, put ten tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with half a teaspoonful of sugar and a little salt; divide each cauliflower into eight pieces, and when the sauce boils add them to it, finish with a liaison of half the yolk of an egg, mixed with three tablespoonfuls of cream, and serve as before. The cauliflower must not be too much done, or it would break to pieces.
Proceed with the cotelettes as before, put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, with a little consommé, and reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon; have six middling-sized preserved truffles cut in thin slices, which throw into the sauce whilst boiling, season with a littlesugar, boil all together a few minutes, glaze the cotelettes, sauce over, and serve.
Have twelve cotelettes nicely cut, lay them on the table and season lightly, put two tablespoonfuls of oil in a sauté-pan, lay in your cotelettes, and fry over a moderate fire till three parts done, take them out, and put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in the sauté-pan; fry till of a light brown colour, pour off as much of the oil as possible, add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and two tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), with a little consommé, a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, a little sugar, grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt; reduce till rather thick, then throw in the cotelettes for a few minutes, turn out on a dish, and leave them to get cold in the sauce; have twelve pieces of white paper, each cut in the shape of a heart and large enough to fold a cotelette in, rub a little oil over, and place a cotelette in each with as much of the sauce as possible; fold them up, and broil ten minutes over a moderate fire, dress them in a crown on your dish, without taking them out of the papers, which must well cover the cotelettes, or they would be very dry.
Dress twelve cotelettes as for sauce Soubise (No. 703), then put six tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with three of veal stock or consommé, place it over the fire, and when boiling add an equal quantity of sauce tartare (No. 38) stir over the fire till hot, but do not let it boil, sauce under, and serve.
Proceed with the cotelettes as before, and serve theragout à la financière (No. 50) in the centre, only observe that the garniture must be very small, or it would look clumsy with such an entrée as cotelettes.
For cotelettes de mouton à l’Italienne, ditto, sauce poivrades, ditto, aux fines herbes, and ditto, aux jus d’échalotte, dress the cotelettes as usual, and sauce over with either of the above-named sauces (see Nos. 30, 32, 26 and 27).
Proceed with the cotelettes as before described, then put eight tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with two of cream and two of broth; when boiling add one ounce of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), shake the stewpan round till the butter melts, then pour the sauce under the cotelettes; have ready some fried potatoes very crisp, cut thin, and of the size of six penny-pieces, which build in pyramid in the centre, glaze the cotelettes and serve.
Proceed precisely as for the last, only using some sauce Hollandaise (No. 66) instead of the sauce maître d’hôtel, fried potatoes the same. For the two last entrées the sauce must not be too thick.
Prepare twelve nice cotelettes, which season nicely, egg and bread-crumb them, beat lightly with a knife, have some hot clarified butter in a stewpan, dip each cotelette in, then throw them into bread-crumbs, beat again with your knife, and place them on the gridiron over a moderate fire, turning them now and then, ten minutes will be sufficient, dress in crown with a little plain gravy, or with any of the foregoing sauces.
Braised cotelettes are much more in vogue in France than in England, for in the former they prefer meat stewed, whilst in the latter the meat is more succulent and tender, and even for Soubise or Provençale the cotelette sauté is preferred, although properly they ought to be braised; I shall, therefore, describe the manner of braising them and leave the choice to my readers.
Prepare a neck of mutton by cutting off the chine-bone, and cut the cotelettes as before, but let them remain nearly of the same thickness you cut them from the neck, which will be nearly an inch, then stick five or six pieces of fat bacon about the size of a quill through the lean of each cotelette, cutting off the ends, then cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon and lay twelve cotelettes over, all laying on the same side, just cover them with stock, to which add an onion, three cloves, and a bunch of parsley, place a sheet of buttered paper over them, and place them over a slow fire to simmer between two and three hours, try them and if very tender place them upon an oval dish, with a little of their stock, place another dish over them upon which put a seven pounds weight; when quite cold trim nicely of equal sizes and put them in a sauté-pan with their stock to warm, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47), or any other sauce as directed for the cotelettes sautés. Although these cotelettes are required to be tender they must not be too much done or the bones would fall from them.
Cook your cotelettes as directed in the last, but cut them rather small; when cold cover all over with the preparationof onion as for cotelettes à la Provençale, egg and bread-crumb all over and place them in the oven for a quarter of an hour, dress in crown, previously giving them a nice colour with a salamander, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47) much thinned, with cream under them.
Prepare a loin of mutton as a carbonade (see flancs No. 577), and when cold cut it in slices rather more than half an inch in thickness, reduce the stock the carbonade was boiled in to a thin glaze, put the slices in a sauté-pan and pour it over them, place them over a slow fire till quite hot, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with any of the sauces named for cotelettes.
Braise and press a breast of mutton as directed (No. 487), and when cold cut ten pieces out of it in the shape of cotelettes, one third fat and two thirds lean, but not too large, egg, bread-crumb, and broil as for cotelettes panées grillées (No. 721), dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, glaze and serve with sauce piquante (No. 27) in the centre. They may also be served with sauce Soubise (No. 47), poivrade (No. 32), jus d’échalotte (No. 16), or fines herbes (No. 26).
Mutton kidneys dressed in this manner are usually served for breakfast or luncheon, but they may be served as an entrée for dinner. Procure nine fresh kidneys, cut them open and run silver or wooden skewers through to keep them open, season well, egg over with a paste-brush, and dip them into a dish of bread-crumbs, broil over a moderate fire, about ten minutes will be sufficient; when done dressthem on your dish in pyramid, place a piece of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79) in each, half the size of a walnut, place them in the oven two minutes, glaze lightly and serve very hot.
Broil nine kidneys as above, and serve with a good sauce à la tartare (No. 38) under them.
Cut ten fresh kidneys in halves the long way, take off the skins and cut out the roots, or they would shrink in cooking; put two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan, with a spoonful of chopped eschalots, place the pan on the fire and as soon as the butter melts place in the kidneys, fry about five minutes, and when half done turn them, dress them in a crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and put them somewhere to keep hot; pour as much of the butter as possible from the sauté-pan, and put in a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and six spoonfuls of consommé; boil altogether ten minutes, then add half an ounce of anchovy butter (No. 78) and the juice of half a lemon, mix it well in, sauce over the kidneys and serve.
Skin eight kidneys and cut them into thin slices, put an ounce of butter in a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when the butter begins to brown throw in the kidneys, stir round with a wooden spoon and when they become firm add a small tablespoonful of flour, mix well, add two wineglasses of champagne with two of white broth and twenty blanched mushrooms; let all boil very gently a few minutes, season with the juice of half a lemon, a little pepper, salt, and chopped parsley; pour them out on your dish andserve. The sauce requires to be rather thick, sherry or hock may be used instead of champagne.
Proceed as directed for the flanc (No. 630) and serve them in a small casserole of rice, according to the size of your entrée dish.
Cook the feet as directed (No. 630), and have ready prepared the following purée: peel and cut in dice four large onions, which put in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter over the fire, keeping them stirred with a wooden spoon till tender, then add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, a pint of milk and a little broth, season with pepper, salt, and sugar, keep boiling till the onions are quite done, then put in the feet, which let simmer a few minutes, finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, stir well, and place it over the fire a minute, keeping it stirred to thicken, serve either on a dish or in a casserole of rice (No. 626). They require to be seasoned rather highly.
Lambs’ feet are cooked in the same manner as the sheeps’ but do not require quite so long to stew; having previously cooked ten feet put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with half a pint of white stock and four button onions; reduce to half, then pass it through a tammie over the feet into another stewpan, season with a little pepper,salt, and sugar, add twenty heads of mushrooms and a little chopped parsley; simmer altogether two or three minutes, add a little lemon-juice, and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, mix quickly and serve in a pâté chaud (No. 618), or casserole of rice (No. 626), made according to the size of your dish.
Have eight feet ready cooked and cold, then have prepared a quarter of a pound of veal forcemeat (No. 120), with which add a little chopped parsley, chopped eschalots, and the yolk of an egg, fill the part of the feet with it from which you took the large bone, put them again into the stock they were cooked in and simmer twenty minutes, take them out, drain on a cloth, and dress them in pyramid by placing a little mashed potato upon the bottom of the dish, laying four at the bottom and finishing with one at the top, sauce over with a sauce Hollandaise (No. 66), and serve with chopped gherkins sprinkled over them.
Having cooked eight feet, cut each one in halves lengthwise and put in a basin with two onions sliced, two bayleaves, a sprig of thyme, a bunch of parsley, a glass of vinegar, two spoonfuls of oil, and a little salt and pepper, let them remain four hours, drain upon a cloth, and dip them into fritter batter (No. 1285), fry a nice light brown colour, dress on a napkin, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with some tomata sauce (No. 37) in a boat.
Have cooked eight feet, which dry upon a cloth, make a sauce like for the cotelettes durcelle (No. 704), stew the feet in it twenty minutes, then leave them to get coldin the sauce, have eight pieces of cartridge paper, (each piece large enough to fold a foot in,) oil them and lay in a foot with as much of the sauce as you think sufficient, roll them round and fold the paper at each end to imitate a cartridge, broil them over a slow fire, dress in pyramid and serve with a little gravy in a boat.
Procure eight or ten lambs’ ears and put them into lukewarm water to disgorge for two or three hours, then make a blanc (No. 459), in which put the ears to stew; let them be well covered or they will turn black, boil gently about an hour, if done the thick part of the ears will feel tender, if not ready to serve let them remain in the stock until wanted, make a border of forcemeat as described for the ris de veau à la Turque (No. 673), place it on your dish, take out the ears, make five or six incisions in the thin part of each ear and turn them back to imitate a frill, dress upon the forcemeat to imitate a vase, by turning the curl of the ears outwards, put some mashed potatoes in the centre of the dish, upon which place a fine green bunch of asparagus well-boiled, and not more than four inches in length, standing upright; sauce over with a thin sauce à la purée d’asperges (No. 102), and serve.
Cook and dress eight or ten lambs’ ears, as above, on a border of forcemeat, only turning the ears half reverse way, they will then form a crown; place a plover’s egg peeled and warmed in stock in the hollow of each ear, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan with eight tablespoonfuls of white stock or milk, reduce one-third, then in another stewpan have ten cockscombs nicely dressed and ten button mushrooms, passthe sauce through a tammie upon them, place over the fire, add a gill of cream and the juice of half a lemon, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar; when hot put the garniture in the centre of the dish, sauce over and serve.
Cook and dress ten ears precisely as in the last, omitting the eggs, put half a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan with half the quantity of white stock, and let it reduce one third; then have ready two ounces of butter, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon, one of chopped chervil, one of chopped parsley, and two of tarragon vinegar; season with a little pepper and salt, mix it with the sauce, stir over the fire till hot, but do not let it boil, sauce over and serve.
Proceed exactly as above, only using two ounces of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79) instead of the butter there described.
When cooked cut each ear in halves, lengthwise, and proceed exactly as for the pieds d’agneau (No. 734).
Have eight ears cooked as before, dry them well with a cloth, then put half a pound of veal forcemeat (No. 120) in a basin, with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots and one of chopped mushrooms, mixed with the yolk of one egg; put a spoonful of the forcemeat in the hollow of each ear, egg and bread-crumb them all over and fry twenty minutes in lard, not too hot, or they would be too brown before they were sufficiently done; dress them on a border ofmashed potatoes and serve with a sauce Italienne (No. 30) under.
Lambs’ tails are extremely delicate, cut four into pieces an inch and a half in length, and cook them as directed (No. 627); when tender take them out, put sixteen spoonfuls of white sauce in a stewpan, with four of veal stock, boil five minutes, season with a little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and sugar; when boiling put in the tails, and two minutes before serving add half an ounce of butter and the juice of half a lemon, move the stewpan round over the fire till the butter is melted, add two spoonfuls of whipped cream, and when quite hot pour into your dish and serve, or they may be served in a vol-au-vent, casserole of rice, or croustade. Lambs’ tails may be dressed in any of the methods directed for lambs’ feet, and require to be rather highly seasoned.
Procure eight lambs’ tongues, let them disgorge twelve hours in lukewarm water, cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, lay the tongues over and cover them with stock, add two onions, one carrot, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; when boiling draw them to the corner of the stove to simmer, skim well, try when done with a trussing-needle; if they feel tender take them up, take off the skin, trim a little on each side, cut them in halves lengthwise in the shape of cotelettes, and dress them on a border of mashed potatoes; have ready the following sauce: put a tablespoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan with the half of one of salad-oil, pass them a few minutes over the fire, add a glass of sherry, boil a minute, then add a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and six spoonfuls of whitestock, reduce till rather thick, add a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms and one of chopped parsley, season rather high, draw it off the fire, put in the yolks of two eggs, mix quickly, stir over the fire another minute to thicken, then put it on a dish until cold; with a knife spread it over the tongues half an inch in thickness, so as to form one mass, egg and bread-crumb over and place it in the oven half an hour, salamander a light brown colour and serve very hot, with the following sauce round: put four spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with four of white broth, let it boil a few minutes, then add two spoonfuls of cream; boil all together, season and serve.
Calf’s tongue may also be dressed as in the last, but instead of being covered in the manner there described, serve it with a sauce matelote (No. 62) in the centre and glaze the tongue lightly.
Procure eight or ten lambs’ brains and put them in lukewarm water to disgorge, take off the skins, put the brains in a stewpan with two minced onions, a bunch of parsley, and a little carrot, cover with water, add a glass of vinegar, and a little salt, and boil them ten minutes, then lay them on a cloth and divide each piece in two thin slices, have eight paper cases in which lay the slices of brains, seasoning separately, place a piece of butter on the top of each, with a little chopped parsley, lemon-juice, and a spoonful of white sauce (No. 7); egg and bread-crumb the top, and place them in a hot oven to brown, dress upon the dish in the cases pyramidically and serve.
Procure two sets of lambs’ fry, which blanch ten minutes in boiling water, drain them on a sieve, and when quitedry egg over with a paste-brush, throw them into bread-crumbs, with which you have mixed some chopped parsley, fry them in very hot lard of a nice light-brown colour, dress pyramidically upon a napkin, garnish with fried parsley and serve.
Procure ten lambs’ heart-sweetbreads, if not very white lay them in lukewarm water to disgorge, put them in a stewpan of boiling water to blanch, two minutes will be sufficient; throw them into a basin of cold water, and when cold, lard very neatly with very thin strips of bacon, when larded cover the bottom of the stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, two onions sliced, and a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, lay the sweetbreads over, and put in sufficient broth to come up to their sides, set them in a sharp oven for about twenty minutes, glaze and salamander very lightly; then have ready prepared a border of forcemeat as directed for ris de veau à la Turque (No. 673), which place in the centre of your dish, dress the sweetbreads upon it, then have a pint of young peas nicely boiled, put them in a stewpan with three pats of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar, pass over the fire five minutes, and finish with a liaison of half the yolk of an egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream, place them in the centre, glaze the sweetbreads lightly and serve.
Lard, cook, and dress eight nice sweetbreads as above, then have nicely cooked nine very fine cockscombs (No. 128), and place one between each sweetbread; have also the following garniture and sauce: prepare thirty very small quenelles of fowl (No. 122), poach them in stock, drain on a cloth, and put them in a stewpan, with six trufflesturned to the size of small marbles, and twelve fine olives (stoned) in another stewpan, put half a glass of sherry, a bay-leaf, half a teaspoonful of chopped onions, and a piece of glaze the size of a nut, boil two minutes, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and eight spoonfuls of consommé, reduce to a good thickness, and add the trimmings of some fresh mushrooms, then pass it through a tammie over the garniture, boil all together one minute, add a quarter of a teaspoonful of sugar, and pour the sauce in the middle of the dish, building the garniture in a dome, and placing the remaining cockscombs on the top, glaze the sweetbreads lightly and serve.
Lard, cook, and dress ten sweetbreads as before, and serve a sauce aux concombres (No. 103) in the centre; they may also be served with a sauce à la jardinière (No. 100), pointes d’asperges (No. 101), sauce tomate (No. 37), &c.
Blanch ten nice sweetbreads, trim them well, cut a deep incision in the centre of each, in which stick a very fine cockscomb (No. 128); surround each sweetbread with a slice of fat bacon, place them in a stewpan and braise as before, but they must be kept quite white, braise half an hour, take off the bacon and dress them upon a border of forcemeat as the last, the cockscombs will be quite firm, then have ready the following sauce: peel and mince the half of a very small cucumber and put it in a stewpan with a chopped eschalot and a pat of butter, let them go gently over the fire, stirring occasionally, until it has become quite a purée, add a quarter of a pound of the flesh of a cooked fowl well pounded in a mortar, season with a little salt andpepper, boil all together five minutes, rub it through a tammie, put into a clean stewpan, and when boiling finish with a tablespoonful of whipped cream, sauce over and serve. The sauce must not be too thick.
For atelettes de ris d’agneau, see atelettes de ris de veau (No. 682), and proceed in the same manner.
Procure the ribs of a lamb, saw off the breast as large as possible, leaving the bones of the neck long enough to cut cotelettes, braise and press as directed for breast of mutton (No. 487); the day before you want to use it, cut seven nice cotelettes from the neck, then cut seven pieces from the breast, rather small, and the shape of hearts, egg and bread-crumb the cotelettes, which also fry in the same sauté-pan, the whole of them to be of a nice light-brown colour, make a border of mashed potatoes upon your dish, on which dress the cotelettes upon one side and the pieces of breast on the other, have one hundred French beans cut in diamonds and boiled very green, drain them quite dry on a sieve, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of sugar, and the juice of a lemon; set over the fire till very hot, dress them in the centre, glaze the cotelettes and breast lightly, pour nearly half a pint of thin white sauce round and serve very hot.
Proceed with the breast and cotelettes exactly as in the last, using peas instead of French beans, and omitting the lemon-juice; or they may be served with the petits pois à la Française (No. 84), or petits pois au lard (No. 85); experience has taught me that the above is not only the most simple method, but the peas eat much nicer than in eitherof the other ways; the peas must be young and perfectly fresh, if the reverse stew them by all means.
Proceed exactly as before, using a sauce aux concombres (No. 103) instead of the other vegetables.
Prepare your cotelettes and breast as before, but dress them alternately on the dish; you have previously roasted a shoulder of lamb, when cold cut half a pound of the best part out, which cut into slices the size of half-a-crown, cut also ten fine heads of blanched mushrooms in two slices and put them into a stewpan with the lamb; in another stewpan put a pint of white sauce (No. 7), six spoonfuls of white stock, with four of boiled milk and a bunch of parsley, reduce to a proper thickness, pass it through a tammie over the lamb and mushrooms, place over the fire to boil, season lightly with a little pepper, salt, sugar, and the juice of half a lemon; let simmer a few minutes, add a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with half a gill of cream, move the stewpan gently over the fire till the sauce thickens, pour the sauce in the centre, glaze the cotelettes and serve.
Although this way of serving an epigramme is good, yet I give the preference to the other, for the lamb coming in season with the vegetables they look so much more inviting; the epigramme à l’ancienne I consider fitter for a winter dish.
Lamb cotelettes require great attention, both in cutting, bread-crumbing, and frying. Cut twelve cotelettes of the same size and shape as represented in the engraving, lay them upon a dish, season lightly with white pepper and salt, put three yolks of eggs upon another plate, which mixwith a tablespoonful of cream, rub each cotelette in it and afterwards into very fine bread-crumbs, beat them lightly with your knife, keeping them in their shapes, have a quarter of a pound of butter in a small stewpan, let it boil at the corner of the stove, skimming it until perfectly clarified, then pour it into a thick flat-bottomed sauté-pan over a brisk fire, lay in the cotelettes (turning them two or three times, which will cause them to be a light brown colour); fry very crisp, not doing them too much; if properly done they will be very full of gravy; to ascertain when done press them lightly with the point of your knife; if beginning to feel a little firm they are done; take them out, glaze very lightly, dress them in your dish upon a border of mashed potatoes the reverse way, the bones pointing outwards, and serve the peas dressed as for epigramme (No. 750) in the centre. My object in using mashed potatoes is to keep the cotelettes in their places in being carried to table. Why I recommend a thick-bottomed sauté-pan is that the thin ones by the action of the fire frequently rise in the centre, which would cause the cotelettes to burn and completely spoil this delicate entrée.
Prepare and dress twelve lamb cotelettes as above, and serve with the garniture aux pointes d’asperges.
Prepare and dress the cotelettes as before, and serve with the garniture aux haricots vert.
Prepare your cotelettes as above, dress them on a small border of mashed potatoes, then have ready the young vegetables and sauce as directed for grenadins de veau auxracines nouvelles (No. 692), dress the vegetables in pyramid in the centre, sauce round, glaze lightly and serve.
In a large dinner where you are obliged to cook your cotelettes some time before serving, put them into a sauté-pan, half cover them with thin glaze, and keep hot till wanted. This remark applies to every description of cotelettes.
Prepare and dress twelve lamb cotelettes as before; have ready the following sauce: peel fifty spring onions nearly as large as marbles, put half a teaspoonful of sugar into a stewpan, place it over the fire and when melted add two pats of butter and your onions, pass over a slow fire twenty minutes or till tender, tossing them occasionally, then add fifteen spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), with eight of white stock and a small bunch of parsley, simmer at the corner of the fire a few minutes, skim well, take out the parsley, make a liaison of one yolk of an egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, stir in quickly, stir another minute over the fire to thicken, sauce in the middle of the cotelettes, which glaze and serve; should the onions be too much done take them out with a colander spoon, place them in a clean stewpan, reduce the sauce and pass it through a tammis over them.
Proceed exactly as for cotelettes de mouton (No. 710), but scooping the artichokes a size smaller.
Proceed as for cotelettes de mouton à la vicomtesse (No. 699).
Prepare twelve lamb cotelettes as usual, and have ready the following purée: put six large French truffles in a mortar and pound them very fine, then put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, with four spoonfuls of consomme, reduce a few minutes, keeping it stirred, add the pounded truffles and a little sugar, simmer a couple of minutes, rub it through a tammie with a couple of wooden spoons, put it again into a stewpan to make hot, sauce under the cotelettes, which glaze and serve.
The French raw truffles are the best, but if you cannot obtain them use the preserved, or raw English truffles if most handy, but choose the blackest you can get.
Prepare twelve cotelettes as usual, which glaze and serve with a sauce à la purée de champignons (No. 54) under them.
Prepare the cotelettes as usual, and have ready the following purée: peel and slice eight large Jerusalem artichokes, and one small onion, put the onion into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, two ounces of raw ham, a sprig of thyme, ditto parsley, and one bay-leaf; stir over the fire five minutes, then add the artichokes, with a very little white stock, cover the stewpan and place it over a slow fire, stirring round occasionally; let them remain till quite tender, then add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, and nearly a pint of white stock; boil altogether, keeping it stirred, rub it through a tammie, place it in another stewpan, add a little sugar, pepper, and salt, boil and skim well, finish with two tablespoonfuls of good cream, sauceunder the cotelettes, which glaze and serve; these purées require to be rather thick, yet not so thick as to eat pasty and disagreeable.
Lamb cotelettes may also be served with a purée of cauliflowers (No. 97), cucumbers, (No. 105), or asparagus (No. 102).
Cut, lard, and braise twelve lamb cotelettes as described for mutton (No. 722), but they will not require so long stewing, press them between two dishes until cold, trim them nicely, then make a purée of truffles as directed (No. 53), but thicker, take it off the fire whilst boiling, and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, place it a moment on the fire to set, and pour on a dish to get cold, then take the cotelettes by the bones and surround them with the purée, spreading it over with a knife, egg and bread-crumb twice over, and put them in a wire basket; have four pounds of lard in a stewpan over the fire and very hot, put in the wire basket and cotelettes, fry of a nice light-brown colour, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a little clear demi-glace (No. 9) in the dish.
Prepare your cotelettes as above, make a purée of mushrooms as directed (No. 54), but thicker, and adding the two yolks of eggs as in the last, spread it over the cotelettes, bread-crumb, fry, and serve exactly as in the last.
Lamb côtelettes farcis may also be made with purée of asparagus (No. 102), cauliflower (No. 97), artichokes (No. 90), or cucumbers (No. 105), by following the above articles.
For cotelettes d’agneau à la reform, Provençale, maître d’hôtel, Hollandaise, poivrade, piquante, or tomates, see cotelettes de mouton, with the same sauces, and proceed as there directed.
Roast a shoulder of lamb, and when cold cut the best part of it into thin slices about the size of half-crown-pieces, cut also about half the quantity of cooked ham or tongue into pieces of the same size as the lamb, put them together in a stewpan; you have previously boiled in another stewpan a pint of good white sauce (No. 7), and half a pint of stock with a bunch of fresh parsley in it, which pass through a tammie over the meat, season with pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon, simmer gently, pour on a dish and serve; truffles or mushrooms may likewise be added, and it may be served in a croustade of bread, casserole of rice (No. 626), or vol-au-vent (No. 1140); if you have the remains of any joint of lamb it may be used for the above purpose.
Roast a shoulder of lamb and when cold cut it up in very small dice with one fourth the quantity of cooked ham or tongue; put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, pass it over a fire till the onion becomes yellowish, then add a little flour, mix well, put in your mince, with about a pint of white sauce (No. 7), season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar; boil all together five minutes, keeping it stirred, if too thick add a little more sauce, then add two yolks of eggs, stir them in quickly over the fire for one minute, add the juice of a lemon, and pour it out on a dish to cool; when quite cold take twelve pieces of it rather larger than walnuts, roll them about two inches in length, egg and bread-crumb twice over and fry in very hot lard; dress them on your dish in crown upon a small border of mashed potatoes, and serve with some of the blanquette d’agneau above, in the centre.
Very few entrées are made of pork, the cotelettes being the principal; they require a sharp high-seasoned sauce; the small pork only can be used.
Cut twelve cotelettes from a neck of pork, similar to the manner directed for mutton cotelettes, only you will be able to cut four cotelettes without bones, by cutting a cotelette from between the rib-bones, as they require little or no beating, you cut them from the neck of the same thickness you require your cotelettes, egg and bread-crumb and fry them a nice colour in clarified butter; they require to be well done, for underdone pork is very unwholesome; dress in a crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce à l’Indienne (No. 45) under them; if for a dinner of any importance omit the cotelettes without bones, using two necks to obtain the quantity.
Prepare and dress the cotelettes as above, and proceed as for the mutton cotelettes, sauce remoulade (No. 717).
Pork cotelettes are also served with their original sauce Robert (No. 28), sauce piquante (No. 27), au jus d’échalotte (No. 16), or poivrade (No. 33) over, and with a sauce tomate (No. 37) beneath them; the cotelettes require glazing, especially where the sauce is served under them.
Prepare twelve cotelettes as before, dress them on your dish, and have ready the following sauce: peel forty buttononions, then put half a teaspoonful of sugar in a stewpan, and place it over the fire; when melted and beginning to brown, add two ounces of butter and the onions; keep tossing them over the fire until they get rather brown, add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and half the quantity of consommé; let boil on the corner of the stove till the onions are done, keeping it well skimmed, the onions must be tender but not broke, take them out carefully with a colander spoon and place them in a clean stewpan; reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a tablespoonful of French mustard, and pass it through a tammie over the onions; have also twenty little balls the size of marbles, cut from some gherkins, which put in the sauce, warm altogether, but do not boil, dress the onions and gherkins in the centre, sauce over and serve.
Prepare twelve cotelettes as before, but mixing some grated Parmesan cheese with the bread-crumbs, and frying them in oil; then cut eighty pieces of blanched macaroni (No. 130), about three quarters of an inch long, with twenty pieces of cooked ham or tongue, and twenty mushrooms the same size as the macaroni; put them into a stewpan, with two spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut; place over the fire and when quite hot add two ounces of grated Parmesan, and two of grated Gruyere cheese, mix well together by shaking the stewpan round, season with a little salt, pepper, and cayenne, if approved of, and pour in the centre of your cotelettes, which glaze and serve with nearly half a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) poured round and over the garniture.
Prepare twelve cotelettes as before, but cook them ratherunderdone, have ready the preparation of onions as for cotelettes à la Provençale (No. 701), with a spoonful of French mustard added, cover the cotelettes all over with it about a quarter of an inch in thickness, egg, bread-crumb, and fold each one in a piece of pig’s caul to keep its shape, put a little oil in the sauté-pan, lay in the cotelettes, put it over the fire for two or three minutes, then in the oven to give them a good colour, if not sufficient colour pass the salamander over, take them out, lay upon a clean cloth to drain, dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a demi-glace (No. 9) round.
Procure four small fillets of pork from under the loins, take off all the skin and beat them flat, lard neatly with fine bacon as for a sweetbread, cover the bottom of stewpan with thin slices of bacon, two onions in slices and a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, lay the fillets over, add about a pint of stock, stand it over the fire five minutes, then put it in the oven; when done they will be quite tender, glaze and salamander a nice colour, place them on a clean cloth to drain, and cut each fillet in halves, dress upon a border of mashed potatoes in crown, have ready some very white stewed choucroute (No. 116), which dress in pyramid in the centre, put twelve spoonfuls of brown sauce in a stewpan with four of consommé, a small piece of glaze, and a little powdered sugar, reduce till rather thick, sauce round and serve. Your choucroute must be very white.
Fillets of pork may also be served with dressed spinach (No. 106), ditto endive (No. 119), sauce tomata (No. 37), Robert (No. 28), or Indienne (No. 45).
Procure four fillets from the loin as in the last, but donot lard them, cut them into pieces the size and shape of a fillet of fowl, egg, bread-crumb, and fry in clarified butter, dress in crown on your dish, sauce over with a brown Soubise (No. 48), sprinkle bread-crumbs over, salamander and serve.
Escalopes may also be served with any of the sauces as served with the cotelettes.
Have three fillets of pork larded, and braise as (No. 773), and cut each fillet in halves to make six pieces, boil also three small pigs’ tongues, split each one in half, skin and trim nicely, make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the fillets and tongues alternately in crown, glaze lightly and serve with a sauce tomate (No. 37).
Pigs’ tongues may be dressed in the same manner as calves’ or sheep, but they are not such delicate eating.