For the roasts, second course, in my Kitchen at Home, I must refer my readers to that series in the other department of this work, as it is impossible to explain them more simply; so also for the various methods of dressing vegetables (there so fully explained), from the most expensive to the most simple; and, to avoid repetition, pass over those two series in the second course, and commence a short series of simplified second-course dishes, with a few plain salads.
No. 230.Salad of Cold Meat.This salad in France is very much in vogue, and very frequently made with the remains of meat from the pot-au-feu, but any meat, either roasted, boiled, or stewed, may be used.
Cut your meat in slices (with a little of the fat) about the size of half-a-crown, place them upon a dish, with three eschalots chopped very finely, a spoonful of chopped parsley, one of chopped tarragon and chervil, and a little salt and pepper, pour six tablespoonfuls of salad-oil and two of vinegar over, toss well together without breaking the meat, and serve either in a salad-bowl or upon another dish; the above proportion is for a pound of meat.
Another method is to have as many slices of cold potatoes as of meat, cut the same size, and after well seasoning the whole, dress them alternately round the dish, one resting upon the other; mix two spoonfuls of oil with one of vinegar, which pour over and serve. Spring onions, slices of beet-root, and radishes, may also be introduced. The remains of poultry may also be dressed in a similar manner.
No. 231.Lobster Salad.Break up a lobster, obtaining as much of the flesh as possible, which cut into slices, have likewise two hard-boiled eggs also in slices, two anchovies filleted, and two cabbage lettuces, or any other salad cut up small; mix the whole well together with a fork in a basin, season with half a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, one of chopped parsley, one ofchopped tarragon and chervil, a little pepper and salt, six spoonfuls of salad-oil, and two of vinegar; when well mixed, turn the whole into a salad-bowl and serve. Crab may be dressed precisely the same.
No. 232.Fish Saladsare also very good, and may be made with the remains of John Doree, turbot, salmon, or brill; fillets of soles sauted in butter, when cold, also make excellent salads.
Cut the fish into rather thin slices, have also two young cos lettuces, which separate into leaves and cut lengthwise; add a few leaves of tarragon, a little chervil, season with a little pepper and salt, six or eight spoonfuls of salad-oil, and two of vinegar, or according to taste; mix well together, turn into a salad-bowl and serve. The above salads are excellent for dinner upon a hot summer’s day.
No. 233.Potato Salad.Peel and cut ten middling-sized cold potatoes into slices, and put them into a salad-bowl, season with a little pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil, half ditto of chopped eschalots, the same of chopped parsley, six spoonfuls of oil, and two of vinegar; toss all well together without breaking the potatoes, and serve. Cold haricot beans, French beans, and lentils are also excellent dressed in the above method.
No. 234.Plain Salad à la Française.Throughout France, but in France only, this simple style of dressing a salad is fully appreciated, the sight of which refreshes the eyes and revives the appetite; I never heard (in France) any one say, after a copious dinner, this is too much and useless, but, on the contrary, every one reserves, if not an appetite, at least the shade of one, for the approaching salad, the simplicity of its seasoning and its trifling expense principally causing it to be thus popular and so freely partaken of. I have never given a small party at home, but my guests have been at all times anxious to partake of my French salad, which I simply make as follows:
I procure a quantity of salad of any description the most in season (all descriptions of salad being dressed in the same manner, one receipt will do for the whole), but my favorite salad being endive, that is the one I shall here describe.
Take four or five heads of very white endive, detach all the green leaves, and wash each head well in a pail of cold water, but not leaving them in the water, or they would eat quite bitter, which, for my own part, I do not much object to, but many persons do; when clean, cut each head in halves down the centre, cut off the roots, which throw away, lay the endive in the centre of a clean cloth, which take by the four corners and shake until the salad is perfectly dry; then put it into a convenient-sized salad-bowl, season with three saltspoonfuls of salt, two of white pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, six of salad-oil, and one of tarragon and chervil chopped very fine, then stir up lightly with a spoon and fork, and when well mixed let the guests help themselves.
Another method of dressing an endive salad, which, in the opinion of the generality of my guests, is the most preferable in point of flavour, is to rub the salad-bowl with a piece of fresh peeled garlic, then lay in the salad; have three or four pieces of crust of bread, about the size of shillings, let each be well rubbed with the garlic, season and stir well together as before.
Should any ladies, however, be going to partake of it, the bowl and crustsmust not be so much rubbed, as too strong a flavour might be objectionable: this last receipt is only applicable to endive, every other salad, such as cos or cabbage lettuce, is plainly dressed as in the first receipt, adding more or less seasoning, or tarragon and chervil; a dozen of green spring onions is also an improvement to a salad.
To make a profitable family salad, a certain quantity of cold roast, stewed, or boiled meat (which you might have remaining) or poultry might be introduced in either of the above salads, having previously cut it into slices; you may also introduce a couple of hard-boiled eggs, cut in rings, with slices of beet-root, cucumbers, ripe tomatas, or even cold potatoes, but then a little more vinegar must be added: from such a salad a small family may in the summer months make an excellent meal.
No. 235.Jelly of various kind of Fruits.Having but little time to make very bright jellies at home, I usually simply make them as directed in the few following receipts—they are excellent and full of flavour: when in a hurry, I generally use isinglass, but at other times boil three calf’s feet, or two cow heels, in a gallon of water, and when well done pass the liquor through a sieve into a basin, and clarify the next day, by taking off every particle of fat, and putting it into a stewpan; place upon the fire, and when boiling, add a pint of water, with which you have whipped the whites of six eggs, mixing the juice of four lemons and two ounces of lump sugar; keep whisking over the fire until upon the point of boiling, when take from the fire, place the cover upon the stewpan, with a little live charcoal, or a few live cinders upon the top, let stand twenty minutes, when pour it through a jelly bag, pouring that which first runs through in again, until running quite clear, when all has passed through, pour it into a stewpan, and reduce it over a sharp fire to about a quart, when put it by for use, instead of isinglass, where indicated.
No. 236.Orange Jelly.The bountiful supply and cheapness of this delicious fruit will enable almost any person to partake of this excellent entremet.
Procure ten middling-sized oranges and two lemons, take the rind from three of the oranges and one of the lemons, as thinly as possible, which put into a basin, put a sieve over, through which squeeze the juice of the oranges and lemons, then put half a pound of sugar in a stewpan over the fire with a pint of water, and let boil until becoming a very thick syrup, when take it off, and add the juice and rind of the fruits, cover the stewpan for a few moments, when again place it over the fire; as soon as boiling commences, skim well, and add two glasses of water by degrees, which will assist its clarification, let boil another minute, when add an ounce and a quarter of isinglass, dissolved as directed (page 592), pass the whole through a jelly bag or fine cloth, and add a few drops of prepared cochineal to give an orange tint; when fill a mould, which place in two or three pounds of ice until set quite firm and ready to serve, when dip the mould in hot water to the rim, wipe the exterior, turn over upon your dish, lifting the mould straight, but gently off from the jelly.
As the sizes of the oranges very much fluctuate, and some produce more juice than others, it would be better to try a little jelly in a spoon upon ice, to ascertain if of the proper strength, before filling your mould. If handy, the same quantity, or a little more, of reduced calf’s foot jelly, as in the last, may be used instead of isinglass.
No. 237.Whipped Orange Jelly.This makes a very pleasing variation, without incurring any additional expense, being merely when the jelly is passed to put it in a bowl, which place upon ice, and commence whipping the jelly until upon the point of setting, when pour it quickly into your mould, which place upon ice until ready to serve, when dip the mould into warm water and turn the jelly out. Orange jelly, as directed in either of the last two, may also be served in the skins of the oranges by proceeding as directed (page 522), and serving them upon a napkin with laurel-leaves between, in the same manner as oranges for a dessert. The remainder of an orange jelly may be melted again, poured into glass custard cups, set upon ice, and served upon another occasion, if sufficient; the remains of a clear one might be whipped and poured again into the mould.
No. 238.Lemon Jelly.Proceed precisely the same as directed for orange, but omitting the oranges, and using the juice of eight and the rind of two lemons; this jelly requires to be kept quite white, and may be served either turned out of a mould, or in glasses, but not in the skin of the fruit, it being too bitter; half a pint of bucellas wine may be added to the above.
No. 239.Currant and Raspberry Jelly.Procure two pounds of fresh currants and a good handful of raspberries, which place in a clean cloth over a basin, fold the cloth up, and press the juice through it with your hands, then add two or three wineglassfuls of cold water, and pass the whole through a jelly bag, make a thick syrup from three quarters of a pound of sugar, to which add two ounces of dissolved isinglass (or sufficient calf’s foot jelly), mix the whole well together; when the syrup is a little cool, taste if palatable, place a little upon some ice, and if strong enough, fill your mould, which place in ice until quite set and ready to serve, when turn it out as before directed.
No. 240.Strawberry Jelly.Put a pint of water in a stewpan to boil, have ready picked a basket of fresh strawberries, and when the water is boiling throw them in, let simmer a minute, add the juice of a lemon, place the lid upon the stewpan, and stand by until half cold, when run the jelly through a napkin or jelly bag, make a syrup, and add the isinglass as above, but using less sugar, finish precisely as in the last.
Either of the last two jellies are, for a change, also very excellent whipped as directed for the orange jelly. It is almost needless to mention that when calf’s foot jelly is used, not quite so much sugar will be required as if only the isinglass.
No. 241.Maresquino Jelly.Have, if any, a quart of rather firm calf’s foot jelly, to which add, when melted, six liqueur-glassfuls of maresquino, and two of brandy, pour in your mould, which set upon ice until firm and ready for use, when turn out of your mould, as before, and serve. If no calf’s foot jelly, isinglass must be used instead, by dissolving an ounce and a half of isinglass, and adding it to a syrup made with the juice of two lemons, half a pound of sugar, and a pint or water, pass through a napkin or jelly bag, add two wineglassfuls more water, with the maresquino and brandy, when partly cold place in your mould, and serve as before.
Jelly made in either of the above methods may be flavoured with any other liqueurs (the quantity used depending principally upon taste), as also with rum, brandy, or whiskey, which last are more fit for a party of gentlemen.
No. 242.Syrup of Almond, Iced à la Varsovienne, a substitute for Blancmange.Almost every ordinary cook is acquainted with the old method of making a blancmange, and the tediousness of its fabrication; so at home I make the following substitute: blanch and pound in a mortar four ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds, boil three quarters of a pound of sugar to a thickish syrup, put in the almonds, let infuse twenty minutes, then pass it through a tammie, add sufficient dissolved isinglass or calf’s foot jelly to set it, with a glass of brandy or rum, place the above preparation in a bowl upon some ice, keeping it stirred until upon the point of setting, when stir in a pint of cream, previously well whipped, and pour it into a mould, let remain upon ice until ready to serve, when dip into lukewarm water and turn out upon your dish. The flavour of any kind of fruit may be used instead.
No. 243.Pineapple Creamis what I now frequently make in the summer months, using the West Indian pineapples, which may be procured remarkably cheap. Peel a small one, and put the rind into a stewpan, with six ounces of sugar, and two wineglassfuls of water; let boil until reduced to a very thick syrup, when pass it through a sieve into a basin, cut the remainder of the pine into very small strips, which put into the basin with the syrup, have ready boiling half a pint of milk, in which you have dissolved rather more than an ounce of isinglass, in another stewpan have the yolks of five eggs, over which pour the milk, mix well, and stir over the fire until it becomes a little thickish, but not boiling, when pass it through a sieve over the syrup, mix well together, place in a bowl upon some ice, keep stirring until upon the point of setting, when add three parts of a pint of cream, previously whipped, stir well in, fill your mould, which leave upon the ice until ready to serve, when turn it out as in the last.
No. 244.Prussian Cream.Put an ounce and a half of isinglass, previously dissolved, into a bowl, melt it, and add six glasses of any liqueur, and two of brandy, with six ounces of powdered sugar, let well dissolve, place the bowl upon some ice, keeping its contents stirred until upon the point of setting, when add three parts of a pint of whipped cream; fill your mould, and proceed as before.
No. 245.Strawberry.Pick and pass through a fine sieve a pottle of very fresh strawberries, to which add the juice of a lemon, six ounces of powdered sugar, and an ounce and a half of dissolved isinglass (or sufficient calf’s foot jelly to set it), put the above ingredients into a bowl, which set upon ice, keeping its contents stirred until upon the point of setting, when stir in three parts of a pint of cream, previously whipped; fill your mould, and proceed as before.
For cherries, raspberries, and currants, proceed as for strawberries, but for apricots, peaches, apples, pears, quinces, &c., proceed as follows:
No. 246.Apricot Bohemian Cream.Stone and cut into slices tenor twelve rather small apricots, quite ripe, and throw them into a stewpan containing half a pint of boiling water, and let boil until forming a purée when pass them through a hair sieve, add six ounces of powdered sugar, with the juice of two lemons, and an ounce and a half of isinglass, previously dissolved; place the whole in a bowl, which set upon ice, keep stirring until upon the point of setting, when add three parts of a pint of whipped cream, pour into your mould, which place upon ice, and turn out when ready to serve, as before.
Should your apricots be very ripe there would be no necessity to boil them, but merely rub them through a sieve, mix the lemon-juice, sugar, and isinglass, and finish as above.
Creams of peaches or of any of the before-mentioned fruits are made in the same manner: but until you have confidence in yourself, it would be better to taste for the sweetness, and try the stiffness by placing a little upon ice, previously to finishing it.
No. 247.French Custard Cream.Have ready ten custard glasses, or small coffee cups, measure one of them ten times full of milk, which place in a stewpan, and set upon the fire until boiling, when add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and the rind of two lemons, free from pith, place the lid upon the stewpan, take from the fire and let infuse ten minutes, then in a basin have ready the yolks of eight eggs, with which stir in the milk by degrees, pass through a tammie and fill the cups; have ready upon the fire a large flat stewpan, containing water sufficient to cover the bottom two inches in depth, and just simmering, stand in the cups, and let remain still simmering until the custards are quite firm, when take them out, let remain until cold, when wash the cups outside, dress them upon a napkin and serve; any kind of flavour may be introduced into the above; but for
No. 248,Coffee Custard Cream, proceed as follows: make half a pint of strong coffee according to the usual method, add half a pint of thin cream or milk previously boiled, sweeten to palate, mix with the yolks of eggs, pass through a tammie, and proceed precisely as directed in the last.
No. 249.Coffee Custard Cream, White.Put a quarter of a pound of green Mocha coffee into a small stewpan, which place over a slow fire, tossing the coffee over frequently until becoming lightly browned, but not black, in another stewpan have boiling a pint of milk, take from the fire, let infuse ten minutes, placing the lid upon the stewpan, then mix with eight yolks of eggs, pass through a tammie, and finish as before.
No. 250.Chocolate Custard Cream.Scrape half a cake of good chocolate, which put into a stewpan, and moisten by degrees with a pint of warm milk and cream, when well dissolved mix with the yolks of eggs, and finish as before.
Any of the above custards may be put into common tart dishes, and set in a potato steamer, or slowly baked in the oven, should the above process be too tedious or inconvenient.
Any description of English boiled custard may be made in the same manner, but instead of pouring it first into the cups, when the infusion is made, mix it with the yolks of eggs, and stir over the fire until thickening (but must not boil, or it would curdle), pass through a tammie, fill your cups or glasses, grate a little nutmeg over each, and serve when quite cold.
No. 251.Almond Custard Cream.The flavour of almonds, which appears to be so generally liked in England, and which were I to omit in custard I should consider it to be a piece of neglect, is generally obtained by the use of an essence which I cannot at all approve of, but consider the following method to obtain that delicious flavour to be much more commendable: blanch and skin two ounces of sweet with a few bitter almonds, pound them well, with sufficient sugar to sweeten a pint of milk, which you have in a stewpan, when boiling throw in the almonds and sugar, cover the stewpan, let infuse ten minutes in another stewpan, have the yolks of eight eggs, upon which pour the infusion, stirring it well and mixing by degrees, stir over the fire until thickening, when pass it through a tammie into a bowl, which place upon ice, or in cold water, keeping it stirred until quite cold, when mix a gill of cream whipped very stiff, fill your cups, sprinkle crushed ratafias over, and they are ready to serve.
By adding a little dissolved isinglass to the above when cooling, any description of spirits or liqueurs may be introduced.
The cream may be omitted, it will then make a good plain custard.
No. 252.Cabinet Pudding.Well butter a plain round mould or basin, round the interior of which stick a quantity of dried cherries, or Smyrna raisins, then about three parts fill the mould with sponge cake, interspersing two ounces of ratafias, over which sprinkle a good glass of brandy, then have ready the following custard: boil a pint of milk, in which infuse the rind of two lemons, free from pith, in a basin, have six whole eggs, which well whisk, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and add the milk by degrees, pass through a tammie and fill up the mould, round the edge of which place a band of buttered paper, have a convenient-sized stewpan, with about two inches in depth of boiling water, place in your pudding, cover a sheet of paper over, and let simmer gently over the fire, keeping the stewpan covered down close until the pudding becomes quite firm, by which time you should be ready to serve it, take out, detach the paper, and turn from the mould over upon a dish; have ready the following sauce: put half a pint of melted butter into a stewpan, into which stir the yolks of two eggs, and add a glassful of brandy, with the juice of a lemon, and sufficient sugar to sweeten it, stir over the fire until becoming a little thick, when pass it through a tammie, sauce over the pudding and serve.
No. 253.Bread Pudding.Procure four French rolls, the crumb of which put into a basin, with a pint of boiling milk, let remain until half cold, when add six whole eggs, with a quarter of a pound of currants, and one ounce of candied citron, cut into very small dice, mix the whole well together; have ready prepared as in the last a plain round mould, in which pour the above mixture, steam it as in the last; when done and ready to serve, turn from the mould, and serve with the same sauce poured over as before directed.
No. 254.Ground Rice Pudding.Place a pint of milk in a stewpan over the fire, and when boiling throw in the rind of a lemon, cut as thinly as possible, and quite free from pith; take from the fire, cover the stewpan, and leave ten minutes to infuse; then in a basin have six ounces of ground rice, which mix smoothly with half a pint of cold milk, take out the lemon-peel from the milk in the stewpan, pour in the mixture, and stir the whole over the fire until thickening, when take from the fire; add six whole eggs,six ounces of powdered sugar and a little grated nutmeg, mix the whole well together, have ready, well buttered, a pudding-dish, into which pour the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven until set; serve hot.
No. 255.Rice Pudding.Well wash six ounces of Carolina rice in one or two waters, drain and dry it upon a cloth, and put it into a stewpan with a pint and a half of cold milk and a quarter of a pound of butter, place the stewpan over a moderate fire, allowing its contents to simmer very gently until the rice becomes quite tender, when add six whole eggs well whipped, six ounces of sugar, and a little grated nutmeg; pour into a buttered pudding-dish, and bake in a moderate oven until set and nicely coloured; serve hot as before.
Sago, tapioca, semoulina, and vermicelli puddings are made very similar to the last, and served the same; they may of course be flavoured with lemon, any description of spice approved of, or a couple of glasses of brandy, rum, noyeau, maresquino, or almost any description of wine, spirits, or liqueurs.
No. 256.Macaroni Pudding.Have half a pound of macaroni, which boil in half a gallon of water until becoming tender, when drain it upon a sieve; have ready boiling in a stewpan half a pint of milk, in which put the macaroni (having previously cut it into pieces an inch in length), with a quarter of a pound of butter and the rind of a lemon, free from pith, tied in a bunch; let simmer gently about twenty minutes, when take out the lemon-peel and add six whole eggs, well whisked, with six ounces of sugar; have ready a pudding-dish well buttered, into which pour the above preparation; bake and serve as before.
No. 257.Gateau of Rice.Well wash half a pound of Carolina rice, which well drain and put into a stewpan with a quart of milk, a quarter of a pound of butter, and a few sticks of cinnamon; let simmer over a slow fire until the rice is very tender, and the whole becoming thickish, when take out the pieces of cinnamon; add six ounces of powdered sugar and eight whole eggs, stir in quickly over the fire until becoming again thickish, when have ready a plain oval mould, well butter the interior, lay a sheet of buttered paper at the bottom, pour in the above, filling the mould to within three quarters of an inch from the rim, and place in a moderate oven, where let remain until set quite firm, when take from the oven, turn out of your mould upon a dish, and serve quite hot, with a sauce over, as directed for cabinet pudding. Gateaux of macaroni, vermicelli, &c., may also be made by the above directions, preparing them as for pudding, but making the mixture as directed for the rice.
No. 258.Fruit Puddings.As almost every description of fruit pudding is made in the same manner, I consider it would be entirely useless to enter into their details, so shall here content myself with merely giving a description of the apple pudding, which, although one of the most common, is in my opinion one of the best.
Put a pound of flour upon your pastry slab, with which mix half a pound of beef suet, well shred and finely chopped, make a hole in the centre, in which pour nearly half a pint of water, mixing the flour and suet in by degrees, and shaking the whole lightly together, then take two thirds, which roll up intoa ball, and with the rolling-pin form it into a round sheet, nearly half an inch in thickness; have ready a round-bottomed basin, well buttered and floured, which line with the sheet of paste, keeping it about an inch above the rim of the basin; have also ready sufficient apples peeled and cut in slices, with which fill the interior, adding a piece of butter the size of a walnut, six ounces of powdered or brown sugar, six or eight cloves, and a little grated nutmeg; wet round the edge of the paste above the basin, roll out the remainder to form a lid of about the same thickness, lay it over the top, joining them well together, then tie the pudding with the basin in a cloth; have ready a good-sized stewpan over the fire, three parts full of boiling water, into which put the pudding, boiling it about an hour and a half: when done and ready to serve take it from the cloth, pass your knife carefully round the sides between the pudding and the basin, turn over upon a dish, lift the basin from it gently, and serve as soon as possible.
Some people prefer the paste for fruit puddings made of butter, which is also very good; but in my opinion the suet paste is much lighter; the trimmings of puff-paste, if any, would also make an excellent crust for a fruit.
Puddings of gooseberries, cherries, currants, raspberries, plums, damsons, &c., are made precisely the same, but omitting the cloves, nutmeg, and piece of butter, and less boiling.
No. 259.Pastry.For the making of good puff-paste I could not give a more simple receipt than that (page 479) in the other department, to which I must refer my readers, as also for half-puff-paste (page 480), which will be found very serviceable in the making of pies or fruit tarts, the method of making which it is here my intention to describe, but for all other dishes of small fancy pastry, a great variety will be found in the Kitchen of the Wealthy, very simply explained, and requiring no greater convenience to make than what my Kitchen at Home will afford.
No. 260.Short Paste for Fruit Tarts.Although I have above stated that the half-puff-paste is very excellent for the covering of fruit tarts, I am also aware that very many persons prefer a short sweet paste, as such I have given the following receipt, leaving my readers to choose between the two, the process being the same for either.
Put a pound of flour upon your pastry slab, with six ounces of butter, and rub them well together with your hands, then make a hole in the centre, in which put two ounces of powdered sugar, two whole eggs, and rather more than a wineglassful of water; mix the eggs, sugar, and water well together, then draw in the flour and butter, shaking the whole well, and when dry work it together lightly with the hands.
No. 261.Apricot Tarts.For tarts the apricots do not require to be too ripe. Procure about two dozen, or according to the size of your dish, split each one in halves, break their stones, and take out their kernels, which blanch and skin, lay the apricots in your dish, building them in the form of a dome above the level of your dish, and interspersing the kernels here and there, cover them over with half a pound of lump sugar broken very small; have ready sufficient half-puff-paste (page 480), or the tart-paste just described, a band of which, the eighth of an inch in thickness, lay round the rim of your dish, previously wetting it, then roll out a sheet of the paste large enough tocover the fruit, and a quarter of an inch in thickness, wet the band of paste upon your dish, and lay the cover over, in which prick a hole in each side between the fruit and the edge of the dish, forming a well all round, and closing the paste well at the edges, trim round with a knife, with which also decorate the edges, wet the top well with white of egg beat to a light froth, over which sprinkle two ounces of finely-powdered sugar, sprinkle with water until the sugar is well dissolved (but not to run off), place in a moderate oven, and bake about an hour, keeping it a very light brown colour, serve when cold.
No. 262.Greengage Tart.Procure a sufficient number of ripe greengages, which put into your dish whole, giving them the form of a dome at the top, and if about two dozen covering them with six ounces of powdered sugar; cover with paste, and proceed exactly as described in the last.
Any description of plum tart is made precisely in the same manner, as also are gooseberry, cherry, currant and raspberry, cranberry, &c. and all requiring about the same time and same description of oven.
No. 263.Apple Tart.Peel and cut about two dozen russet apples in slices, which put into your dish, interspersing them with some lemon peel, free from pith, cut into strips, about six cloves, and a little grated nutmeg; build the apples up in a dome to the centre of your dish, and cover over with half a pound of powdered sugar, then have ready half a pound of puff-paste made as directed (page 479), with which make a band a quarter of an inch in thickness, laying it round the rim of the dish, roll out the remainder of the paste to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and large enough to cover the fruit, wet the band of paste upon the dish with a little water, lay the cover gently over, pricking a hole with your knife at the top to let out the air, closing it gently at the edges, which trim neatly with a knife; egg the top over with a paste-brush, and place in a moderate oven to bake, which will take about an hour; just before taking from the oven sift a little sugar over, and let remain until melted, forming a nice glaze over the tart, which may be served either hot or cold. Brown sugar may be used for any of the above tarts if approved of, but I have given directions for the white, considering that the brown, although commonly used, frequently destroys the delicious flavour of some descriptions of fruit. The salamander may be used to brown it.
No. 264.French Fruit Tart.Make half a pound of paste as directed (No. 1136, page 481), mould it into a round ball upon your marble slab, and roll to a round sheet a quarter of an inch in thickness, wet round the rims, turning the edge over to form a border half an inch in depth, which press upon with your finger and thumb to about an inch in height, have ready about twenty greengages, or any other description of plums, split each into two, and place them in the interior of your tart, shake some sugar over, and bake about half an hour in a hot oven; serve cold, shaking more sugar over at the time of serving. They may also be made with apricots, peaches, cherries, currants, raspberries, cranberries, or gooseberries, in the same manner; but if made of apples, the fruit must be previously boiled to a marmalade, or stewed in a stewpan, with sugar and a small piece of butter, until tender, previous to putting them in the crust; fruit baked in these tarts is also very excellent meringued as directed (No. 267); plain whipped cream with a little sugar is very good for a change.
No. 265.Plain Souffle Puddings.Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan, with two spoonfuls of flour, mix well together, then add half a pint of milk, with a little salt, and two ounces of sugar, upon which you have rubbed the rind of a fresh lemon or orange, keep stirring over the fire until it thickens, but if becoming too thick, which will depend upon the flour, add more milk, but if the contrary, let reduce until forming a fine softish paste; when stir in quickly the yolks of four eggs, when well mixed set by until cold; you have reserved the whites of the eggs, which, half an hour before serving, whip to a stiffish froth, and mix well but lightly with the other part of the preparation, pour the whole into a deep pie-dish, previously well buttered, and set it in a warm oven, when about half done cut an incision in the top, and put again in the oven, when done shake powdered sugar over the top, glaze lightly with the salamander, if any, and serve immediately. Better the guests wait a few minutes for the souffle than the souffle for the guests.
No. 266.Souffle Rice Pudding.Well wash two ounces of Carolina rice, which when dry put into a stewpan with nearly a pint of milk, an ounce of butter, half the rind of a lemon, free from pith, a little salt, and a spoonful of powdered sugar; set upon the fire until boiling, when draw it to the corner, where let simmer very gently (or place the stewpan upon a trivet at a good height from the fire) until the rice is very tender, when take it from the fire, and beat well with a wooden spoon until forming a smoothish paste, when add the yolks of four or five eggs, mixing them well, pour the whites of the eggs into a bowl, whisk them until very stiff, and mix lightly with the preparation; have ready, buttered lightly, a deep pie-dish, pour in the mixture, and about a quarter of an hour before ready to serve place it in a moderate oven, serving when done, and the moment you take it from the oven. Half the above quantity may of course be made.
Souffle of ground rice is made the same as the above, the rice, however, not requiring so long to simmer as when whole. As also are souffles of tapioca, semoulina, vermicelli, &c., changing their flavours according to taste, using vanilla, lemon, orange, orange-flower-water, or a small quantity of any description of liqueur. A few currants may also be mixed with any of the preparations, or laid at the bottom of the dish, as also may any description of light preserves.
No. 267.Fruits Meringued.Any description of fruits may be served to table meringued, by following the above directions. For apples, peel and cut six into slices, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, half the rind of a lemon, free from pith, cut into thin strips, with the juice of half a lemon, and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, or if the apples are perfectly ripe not quite so much, place the stewpan over a moderate fire, tossing the apple over occasionally until quite done, half fill a pie-dish with them, then whip the whites of four eggs to a very stiff froth, with, which mix very lightly a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and lay over the apples in the dish, shake a little sugar over, and set in a slow oven until forming quite a dry crust; it had better remain in the oven a little too long than not long enough, but be sure that the oven is not too hot when you put it in, or it would catch and become quite black, instead of being what it should be, a very light brown, or gold colour.
Apricots, pears, &c., may be done the same, but omitting the butter; for either, cover whilst still warm.
The above fruits also thus prepared may be covered with a souffle of rice, or ground-rice pudding, and baked; they may be then served either hot or cold.
No. 268.Snow Eggsare made with the whites of eggs, thus: whip the whites of five eggs very stiff, to which add (mixing lightly) five ounces of sugar; have boiling in a flat stewpan upon the fire a pint of milk, form pieces of the mixture with a tablespoon in the shape of eggs, and drop them into the boiling milk to poach; when set rather firm take them out with a colander-spoon, and lay them upon a sieve with a plate under to drain; when all are poached your milk will be reduced to about half; then in another stewpan put the yolks of three eggs, with a little sugar, and a few drops of orange-flower-water, beat well together, then add the milk, and keep stirring over the fire until forming a thickish custard (but not allowing it to boil), when pass it through a tammie, dress the eggs tastefully in crown upon your dish, pour the custard over and serve. You may also poach six or eight very fresh eggs in water, with which you have added a little vinegar; when well set take out with a colander-spoon, drain them upon a cloth until cold, dress them upon a dish, or in a flat glass dish, pour a custard over, prepared as above, but with which, if handy, you have mixed a little whipped cream.
For every description of omelettes I must refer my readers to the series of omelettes in the other department of this work.
No. 269.Plum Pudding.Pick and stone one pound of the best Malaga raisins, which put in a basin, with one pound of currants (well washed, dried, and picked), a pound and a half of good beef suet (chopped, but not too fine), three quarters of a pound of white or brown sugar, two ounces of candied lemon and orange-peel, two ounces of candied citron, six ounces of flour, and a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, with a little grated nutmeg; mix the whole well together, with eight whole eggs and a little milk; have ready a plain or ornamented pudding-mould, well butter the interior, pour the above mixture into it, cover a sheet of paper over, tie the mould in a cloth, put the pudding into a large stewpan containing boiling water, and let boil quite fast for four hours and a half (or it may be boiled by merely tying it in a pudding cloth previously well floured, forming the shape by laying the cloth in a round-bottomed basin and pouring the mixture in, it will make no difference in the time required for boiling); when done take out of the cloth, turn from the mould upon your dish, sprinkle a little powdered sugar over, and serve with the following sauce in a boat: put the yolks of three eggs in a stewpan, with a spoonful of powdered sugar, and a gill of milk, mix well together, add a little lemon-peel, and stir over the fire until becoming thickish (but do not let it boil), when add two glasses of brandy, and serve.
The above sauce may be served poured over the pudding if approved of.
An excellent improvement to a plum pudding is to use half a pound of beef marrow cut into small dice, omitting the same quantity of suet.
No. 270.Currant Pudding.Put a pound and a half of flour into a basin, with a pound of beef suet, shred and chopped very fine, and a pound of currants, well washed, picked, and dried, add a little powdered cinnamon, or grated nutmeg, and mix well together, with four whole eggs, a quarter of apound of brown sugar, and half a pint of milk, boil it as directed for plum pudding, either in a mould or tied in a cloth, but two hours would be sufficient; when done turn out upon a dish and serve quite plain, or with sauce as above.
The above mixture divided in small puddings or dumplings about the size of apples, boiled about half an hour, and served hot to table with a little powdered sugar over, are also excellent.
No. 271.Sweet Maccaroons.Blanch and skin half a pound of sweet almonds, dry them well in your screen, then put them into a mortar, with a pound and a half of lump sugar, pound well together, and pass the whole through a wire sieve, put it again into the mortar, with the whites of two eggs, mix well together with the pestle, then add the white of another egg, proceeding thus until you have used the whites of about eight eggs, and made a softish paste, when lay them out at equal distances apart upon wafer paper, in pieces nearly the size of walnuts, place some strips of almonds upon the top, sift sugar over, and bake in a slow oven of a yellowish-brown colour; they are done when set quite firm through.
No. 272.Bitter Maccaroons, orRatafias, are made similar to the above, but deducting two ounces of sweet, and adding two ounces of bitter almonds; they are laid out in much smaller cakes upon common paper, and baked in a much warmer oven; when cold they may be taken off the paper with the greatest ease. These cakes are very serviceable in making a great many second-course dishes.
No. 273.Mince Meat.Procure four pounds and a half of kidney beef suet, which skin and chop very finely, have also three pounds of candied lemon and orange peel, a quarter of a pound of citron, a pound and a half of lean cooked beef, and three pounds and a half of apples, the whole separately chopped very fine, and put into a large pan with four pounds and a half of currants, well washed and picked, two ounces of mixed spice, and two pounds of sugar; mix the whole well together with the juice of eight lemons and a pint of brandy, place it in jars, and tie down until ready for use; a pound and a half of Malaga raisins, well stoned and chopped, may likewise be added to the above.
No. 274.Mince Pies.Have a piece of puff-paste made as directed (page 479), which roll out to the thickness of a penny-piece, have also a dozen tartelette-pans, which lightly butter, cut out twelve pieces with a round cutter from the paste, each the size of your tartelette-pans, lay them upon the slab; roll the trimming of the paste again to the former thickness, cut twelve other pieces, with which line the tartelette-pans, put a piece of mince-meat in each, wet them round, place on the lids, pricking a hole with a pin in the centre, and close them well at the edges; egg over lightly, and bake about twenty minutes in a moderate oven.
END OF RECEIPTS FOR KITCHEN AT HOME.
AFTERconstant supplications to my ménagère, I have obtained at last a valuable receipt of the method of making my coffee at home, which I must say she may well be proud of, having been continually complimented by my guests on account of its excellence. It was only by touching her vanity, and assuring her that it was not to oblige me but the public at large, that she permitted me to give it publicity, on the condition, however, that her name be appended.
“Buy your coffee not over-burnt; grind it at home if possible. Have a middle-sized filter like ours, which holds a little more than a quart, and came from Jakes’ or Benham’s, I forget which (but that is of little consequence, as you merely want the receipt), pour about a pint of boiling water into the filter to heat it through, then empty it, and put a quarter of a pound of ground coffee on the filter; then put on the presser, and lastly the grating; then pour about half a pint of quite boiling water over it, put the cover on, and let it drain through.
“After three or four minutes pour by degrees a pint and a half more boiling water, and when well passed through pour it from the filter into a very clean stewpan; set it on the corner of the fire, and when a little white scum rises to the surface (not letting it boil) pour it a second time over the filter, and when passed through pour either into the silver cafetière or the cups. Serve boiling milk or cream in two small jugs, and white or brown, or sometimes candied sugar.”
After promising her a fine gown for her kindness, I gave her a pen to sign her name.
“But stop,” says she, “I forgot that for your breakfast the next day I used a system of economy which I think will please: as soon as I have poured the coffee from the coffee-pot, I put another quart of boiling water over it. This I find saves me an ounce of coffee by boiling it instead of water, and pouring it over as before.”
(Signed)“Irma de L’Ombre.”
George Nevil, brother to the great Earl of Warwick, at his instalment into the Archbishopric of York, in the year 1470, made a feast for the Nobility, Gentry, and Clergy, wherein he spent
At the feast the Earl of Warwick was Steward, the Earl of Bedford Treasurer, the Lord Hastings Comptroller, with many noble offers: Servitors 1000, Cooks 62, Kitcheners and Scullions 515.
For description of the above, read the introduction of French Pot-au-feu, page 649.
THEunion which has been forced between the “Children of the Son” and those of proud Albion has thrown some beneficial rays upon our European domains and costumes, and if they have not improved our manners and habits, they have at all events changed them.
It is true that we had, previously to this, reaped marvellous things from the “Celestial Empire;” but the English nation, always eager for novelty, could not be contented with their (Ombres Chinoises) Chinese shadows, but must possess them in reality. Since this astonishing conquest you haveChinesequadrilles,Chinesefashions, exhibitions furiouslyChinese, and, for certain, several millions of dollars, which are every bit asChineseas the illustrious descendant of more than forty centuries, whom you are still expecting as a most extraordinary ambassador. I already perceive that your shoes, “jolies Anglaises,” change and diminish with great rapidity. Even now you appear to walk with difficulty; really, if you continue this practice, you will, like the Mandarins’ ladies, have very pretty feet for sitting, but very bad ones for walking. The intellectual part, which is covered with your splendid “blonde chevelure,” will suffer as much as your little feet; and it will be a contest between your astonishing and gracious Amazons, who shall have their hair turned up first, in hopes to resemble your celestial sister and nuptial companion of the expected plenipotentiary. Your beautiful eyes, I hope, will remain in their primitive purity; also that clear and rich tone of colour, which brings to mind those extraordinary fine visagesclair de lune de l’antiquité. The island of Great Britain adds to and preserves this superb and almost ephemeric colour, unknown to the soil of the Continent.
You may, nymphs of the ocean, let your nails grow in the fantastic manner of that captured country; that is, near an inch longer than our insignificant custom in Europe, which is, they say, “a part of the world far from being civilized.” I would also advise you to use with moderation the beaume Cremeux Houbigant, which will preserve them that beautiful vermeil, so greatly admired.
But reflect for a moment, in giving full scope to your fashionable taste, you sacrifice a thousand chefs-d’œuvre, and entirely forsake our illustrious favorites, Mozart, Rossini, Meyerbeer, Auber, Handel, and many others; because you recollect that the harp, guitar, piano, &c., were not invented for the Mandarins: but setting aside all these little tribulations, while walking about with pain, you will have the gratification of hearing, “There goes a lady of the newest fashion.”
While discoursing upon these trifling subjects, I did not perceive an enormous Epicurean, not very particular in fashions, and still less partial to politics (which proves the difficulty of finding several great accomplishments centred in one person), was waiting with intense anxiety, to hear the result of the notice on the title-page; immediately addressing me, he exclaimed, as our satiric Boileau might have said, “Tout ce que vous venez de débiter est certainement bien plat,”—“but where the deuce is your new plat d’entrée, or entrée dish?”
I begged a thousand pardons of my antagonist, and perceived, to my great surprise, that I had involuntarily left my culinary laboratory to undertake an ephemeric voyage to China. After an apology on each side, the following dialogue took place between us:
“There is the model of the dish; what do you think of it, sir?”