A.The kitchen-grate, for roasting, constructed with perpendicular bars, about two feet in height, and backed with Welsh lumps. The opening of the grate has a slide, working up and down, to regulate the draught.B.A boiler behind the grate, from which a constant supply of hot water is obtained.C.The smoke-jack.D.The screen and plate-warmer.E.The dripping-pan.F.The ash-pit, having an air drain attached, communicating with an air brick at the exterior, to increase the draught required to turn the smoke-jack; it would also prevent the chimney from smoking.G.The oven, heated by a fire beneath.H.The bain marie, heated by hot water circulating from the boiler.I.The hot plate, heated by a fire. The coal would be kept underneath.K.A charcoal, or gas stove.L.Thick kitchen table, with sliding shelves and rows of drawers.M.Place for wet sponge to wipe the table.NN.Seasoning box, and fish-sauce box, made to turn on centre pivots.O.Dresser with cupboards beneath, to put four entrée services of china; above it the shelves and hooks for covers, baking-sheet, &c.P.Iron rail, or shelf for coppers.Q.Dresser for dishes, with drawers for small kitchen utensils, one drawer for fat and a slide-board; over it a rail, with hooks for the covers.R.Iron rail similar to preceding.S.Rack for the spits, as described in the Kitchen of the Reform Club.T.The scrubbing-board.U.The hot water tub, with taps.W.The cold water tub.X.The draining-board, grooved and inclined towards the cold water tub.Y.The plate-rack; that part which is over the tub being perforated with holes at the bottom. The other half of the bottom is inclined in the direction of the holes.Z.A cistern, in the front area.
A.The kitchen-grate, for roasting, constructed with perpendicular bars, about two feet in height, and backed with Welsh lumps. The opening of the grate has a slide, working up and down, to regulate the draught.
B.A boiler behind the grate, from which a constant supply of hot water is obtained.
C.The smoke-jack.
D.The screen and plate-warmer.
E.The dripping-pan.
F.The ash-pit, having an air drain attached, communicating with an air brick at the exterior, to increase the draught required to turn the smoke-jack; it would also prevent the chimney from smoking.
G.The oven, heated by a fire beneath.
H.The bain marie, heated by hot water circulating from the boiler.
I.The hot plate, heated by a fire. The coal would be kept underneath.
K.A charcoal, or gas stove.
L.Thick kitchen table, with sliding shelves and rows of drawers.
M.Place for wet sponge to wipe the table.
NN.Seasoning box, and fish-sauce box, made to turn on centre pivots.
O.Dresser with cupboards beneath, to put four entrée services of china; above it the shelves and hooks for covers, baking-sheet, &c.
P.Iron rail, or shelf for coppers.
Q.Dresser for dishes, with drawers for small kitchen utensils, one drawer for fat and a slide-board; over it a rail, with hooks for the covers.
R.Iron rail similar to preceding.
S.Rack for the spits, as described in the Kitchen of the Reform Club.
T.The scrubbing-board.
U.The hot water tub, with taps.
W.The cold water tub.
X.The draining-board, grooved and inclined towards the cold water tub.
Y.The plate-rack; that part which is over the tub being perforated with holes at the bottom. The other half of the bottom is inclined in the direction of the holes.
Z.A cistern, in the front area.
A.A dresser with drawers beneath, to deposit sauces and cold meat.
B.Flour box.
C.Narrow upright closet for preserves and spice jars.
D.Marble sub for pastry, with ice drawers, and pickle drawers beneath.
E.Mortar.
F.Safe for cooked meat.
G.Rail hung from the ceiling to hang up meat and game.
H.Boxes of different sizes in two tiers; they are made of slate with wooden moveable fronts, and are for vegetables.
I.Iron rail above, for moulds and spices.
K.Potatoes.
PLAN OF MY KITCHEN AT HOME.
PLAN OF MY KITCHEN AT HOME.
PLAN OF MY KITCHEN AT HOME.
A.The grate, with upright bars about eighteen inches in height, and Welsh lumps at the back. Near the bottom of the grate are small openings to assist the draught, which communicate with an air drain from the exterior. The openings can be regulated by slides.
B.The boiler.
C.Reservoir to supply boiler, the pipe from which has a ball-cock.
D.The oven.
E.The hot closet. Below this is a tap to procure hot water from the boiler.
F.The screen and plate-warmer.
G.The dripping-pan.
H.The smoke-jack.
I.A double gridiron. This is moveable, and hangs from a bracket which clasps upon the top bar of the grate. It can be moved to any distance from the bars, and can be turned without removing it from its position on the bracket. For this purpose there is a swivel-joint about the middle of the handle.
J.Swing bracket, to support a pan.
K.A charcoal or gas stove.
L.Rack for the spits, as described in the kitchen of the Reform Club.
MM,MIron shelves of open rails for the coppers, &c., about seven feet from the floor.
N.The sink, furnished with taps for hot and cold water. It has the bell trap, of which a drawing has already been given. Under the sink the coal-box is kept.
O.The plate-rack, placed above the sink.
P.The dresser, with slide boards and drawers.
Q.Place for the sponge and water.
R.The spice-box.
S.The meat-safe. This is divided into two compartments, for raw and cooked meat. It is placed outside the building, and runs upon wheels and rails, being drawn forwards or pushed back. With this object a chain is attached to the front, and there is a weight, made to counterbalance the weight of the safe, exclusive of the contents. There is a slide board near the foot of the dresser to stand upon. The plan represents the safe in its position, when not in use. It could readily be adapted to balconies in existing buildings. It might be desirable to have the wire gauze double.
T.Dresser, with marble top, to make pastry upon. Beneath are the vegetable boxes in two ranges; they are shown by dotted lines.
V.The mortar, which stands upon a block of wood, slightly hollowed to receive it. When not in use it can be placed beneath the dresser. There is an iron ring above, as in the other kitchens, for the handle of the pestle to work through.
WW.Closets for preserves and other purposes.
X.Shelves.
A.The grate, as before.
B.The boiler.
C.Reservoir to supply boiler.
D.Oven.
E.The screen. This is a simple wooden rail covered with tin, and can be used as a clothes-horse.
F.Swing bracket, to support a pan.
G.Bracket for roasting, and gridiron, before described.
H.Ash-pit, and air drain communicating with the exterior.
I.The sink, with taps for hot and cold water. The coal-box may be placed underneath.
K.Plate-rack.
L.Water-butt.
M.The dresser, with drawers and slide boards.
N.Place for the sponge and water.
O.Salt and spice-box.
P.The meat-safe, placed at the upper part of the larder, which is well ventilated by panes of perforated zinc in the window.
Q.Potatoes, beneath the stairs.
R.Plate shelves.
S.Shelves for the pans, below the plate shelves.
T.Copper.
THE BACHELOR’S KITCHEN.THE COTTAGE KITCHEN.
THE BACHELOR’S KITCHEN.
THE BACHELOR’S KITCHEN.
THE COTTAGE KITCHEN.
THE COTTAGE KITCHEN.
Nothing but light wine is drunk at the first coarse, but at the second my guests are at liberty to drink wines of any other description, intercepting them with several hors-d’œuvres, which are small dishes of French pickled olives and sardines, thin slices of Bologna sausage, fillets of anchovies, ciboulettes, or very small green onions, radishes, etc.; also a plain-dressed salade à la Française (for which see end of the entrées, Kitchen at Home), fromage de Brie, Neufchatel, or even Windsor cheese, when it can be procured. The coffee and dessert I usually leave to the good taste and economy of my menagère.
My Table at Home.Une Réunion Gastronomique sans dames, est un parterre sans fleurs,L’océan sans flots, une flotte maritime sans voiles.
My Table at Home.Une Réunion Gastronomique sans dames, est un parterre sans fleurs,L’océan sans flots, une flotte maritime sans voiles.
My Table at Home.
Une Réunion Gastronomique sans dames, est un parterre sans fleurs,L’océan sans flots, une flotte maritime sans voiles.
PLAIN JOINTS ADAPTED TO THE TABLE OF THE WEALTHY AS WELL AS MY TABLE AT HOME.
As hardly any dinner is properly served without a simple joint, which may be deposited either on the table or sideboard, I have placed all plain joints, as also the directions for choosing meat, at the commencement of My Kitchen at Home, to which I shall beg to refer my readers while making the bills of fare, or choosing different qualities of meat.
OF THE CHOOSING AND ROASTING OF PLAIN JOINTS.
Here I must claim all the attention of my readers: many of the profession will, I have no doubt, be surprised that I should dwell upon a subject which appears of so little importance, saying that, from the plain cook to the most professed, all know how to roast or boil a piece of meat, but there I must beg their pardon; I will instance myself: for, previously to my forming any intention of writing the present work, I had not devoted the time necessary to become professionally acquainted with it, always depending upon my roasting cook, who had constant practice, myself only having the knowledge of whether or not properly done. I have since not only studied it closely, but have made in many respects improvements upon the old system, and many discoveries in that branch which I am sure is the most beneficial to all classes of society (remembering, as I have before stated, that three parts of the animal food of this country is served either plain roasted or boiled). My first study was the fire, which I soon perceived was too deep, consumed too much coal, and required poking every half hour, thus sending dust and dirt all over the joints, which were immediately basted to wash it off; seeing plainly this inconvenience, I immediately remedied it by inventing my new roasting fire-place (see page 622), by which means I saved two hundred-weight of coals per day, besides the advantage of never requiring to be poked, being narrow and perpendicular; the fire is lighted with the greatest facility, and the front of the fire being placed a foot back in the chimney-piece, throws the heat of the fire direct upon the meat, and not out at the sides, as many persons know from the old roasting ranges. I have many times placed ladies or gentlemen, visiting the club, within two feet of the fire when six large joints have been roasting, and they have been in perfect ignorance that it was near them until upon opening the wing of the screen (see same Plate) by surprise, they have appeared quite terrified to think they were so near such an immense furnace. My next idea was to discontinue basting, perhaps a bold attempt to change and upset at once the custom of almost all nations and ages, but being so confident of its evil effects and tediousness, I at once did away with it, and derived the greatest benefit (for explanation, see remarks at the commencement of the roasts in the Kitchen of the Wealthy), for the quality of meat in England is, I may say, superior to any other nation; its moist soil producing fine grass almost all the year round, which is the best food for every description of cattle, whilst in some countries not so favoured by nature they are obliged to have recourse to artificial food, whichfattens the animals, but decreases the flavour of the meat; and, again, we must take into consideration the care and attention paid by the farmers and graziers to improve the stock of those unfortunate benefactors of the human family.
Every country is famous, more or less, for some produce, so is every county; for instance, for the best beef we are indebted principally to Scotland: the Highland ox, which if bred in Scotland, kept there until four years old, and fed twelve months in Norfolk, cannot be surpassed; those also that are killed in Scotland are likewise very commendable, but the connoisseur would give the preference by far to those that had undergone a change of atmosphere and pasturage. Norfolk also produces excellent beef, as likewise does Herefordshire, which three sorts are ranked as the best by the first judges.
The Brighton downs are noted for producing sheep of the first quality, next to which may be ranked those of the Norfolk downs, they are rather larger, more fleshy, and the meat sometimes a darker colour. Herefordshire also produces some very excellent. The Scotch mutton is also very good, and deservedly of high repute, but I rarely ever use it, as it is killed in Scotland and hurriedly packed, which causes it not to look so well, and frequently very much bruises it; but those of Leicestershire are, in my opinion, quite the contrary, being coarse meat and very fat; I consider it unworthy of making its appearance upon the table of a man of wealth. When residing at Melton Mowbray I tried several haunches, even after hanging a month in winter, and then roasted to perfection, I could not find in them any flavour worthy of the taste of an epicure; I consider it more as a useful nourishment than a delicate meat.
The best Welsh mutton is brought direct from its native mountains, the heath upon which it feeds gives a very rich flavour to the meat, which is very dark without much fat; many are fed in some of the English counties, they are very excellent and much fatter, but do not possess the same wild flavour.
The beat veal to be obtained in the spring time of the year comes from the west of England, being rather small and very white, but there is a steady supply of good veal from Surrey and Essex throughout the year. Although very fine veal may be obtained in this country, it is not to be compared to the quality of veal we obtain in France; the veal of Pontoise, a little town six miles from Paris, outrivals any; I would venture to say that one pound of that veal would make a better stock than double the quantity of the veal procured here: no one can account for it, but such is the actual case; although there the quality of any other description of animal food is deficient, we have to boast of the excellent flavour, succulence, and excessive whiteness of our veal.
House lamb may be obtained throughout the whole year, but there is no great demand for it before February; grass lamb makes its appearance now much earlier than formerly: the quality much depends upon the winter season; if a mild winter they may really be fed upon grass, but if the contrary, they must be fed with prepared food, which increases their size but diminishes their quality.
Pork for roasting is best when about six months old, Berkshire and Hampshire producing the best. The size of a leg of pork should not exceed more than seven pounds, nor much less than six. I do not know why, but of late years pork has lost in a great measure its popularity, and but seldom appears upon a nobleman’s table; it is in season from October to about March.
No. 1.Sirloin of Beef.The royal honour which this bold and handsome dish received from the merry monarch, who conferred upon it the honour of knighthood, good Sir Loin, which title it has ever since retained (previously only bearing the cognomen of loin), and most likely will retain until the latest period: as a joint it claims precedence of all others. In roasting, the fillet and fat below keep the upper part moist, and when well roasted, such is the quantity of gravy, that after a few slices have been cut it may be taken from it with a spoon.
Procure a fine square piece of sirloin weighing about twenty pounds (which has been hung at least three weeks in winter, and eight or ten days, if possible, in summer, observing that the older the meat is the longer it will require keeping before cooking, and this remark applies to all kinds of meat, especially to beef and mutton), trim nicely, leaving the fat about an inch and a half in thickness over the fillet, cut a slice slantwise from the flap, which turn under, fixing it with skewers, thus giving the joint an oblong shape; with a sharp knife cut through the sinew (running along the chine-bones) in four or five places, or the meat would contract in roasting; make an incision in the centre of the chine-bones, lengthwise, with a chopper, through which pass a spit an inch wide and half an inch in thickness, bringing it out at the flap, keeping the centre, and avoiding the fillet. When the joint is larger it would be advisable to use a cradle-spit, which, however like the other spit, has its inconveniences, one making a hole through the meat, and the other pressing upon the fat, making it heavy; but in any kind of joint, if not over-roasted, you will never perceive the mark of the spit, as the cavity closes immediately upon the spit leaving it; always choose a spit corresponding to the size of the joint. In a large kitchen, where you require many joints roasting at one time, a cradle-spit is a nuisance, and must be used only where it cannot be avoided. Tie half a sheet of buttered foolscap paper upon each side of the beef, and place to roast, keeping it two feet from a very clear fire, let remain twenty minutes, then rub the top over with a piece of butter placed in the bowl of a large wooden spoon (see page 396), and place the beef back to the distance of three or four feet from the fire, allowing it two hours and a half to three hours to roast; take it from your spit, let remain a few minutes upon a dish until no more fat runs from it, when place it upon the dish you intend serving it on (previously taking out the piece of rump-bone affixed to the side to facilitate the carving; but in choosing a piece of sirloin obtain it if possible without any of that bone attached, or, at any rate, with but a very small piece, as the joint looks so much handsomer without it), pouring half a pint of good gravy (page 394) under; you will then perceive my object in not basting meat, the fat and the skin will be of a very light gold colour, which would have been quite the contrary if continually basted. By placing the meat too near the fire the fat quickly melts and falls into the dripping-pan, whilst by keeping it a tolerable distance it cooks gradually, and as the meat revolves runs over its surface, keeping it continually moist; and, again, by placing it too near the fire it is liable to catch, causing many persons to think that it has not been well basted; another evil in basting is, that by continually pouring hot fat over you cause that beautiful light fat attached to the joint to become heavy, and the gravy which invariably falls from the joint with the fat remains upon it, burns, and causes it to be very indigestible. It will also be easy to perceive in the habit of pouring a quantity of hot fat over all joints, that if three or four should be roasting together, one over the other, that one description of meat becomes basted with the fat and gravy of several, whilst the mere rubbing of a piece of butterover is not the least objectionable, as nothing can fall upon other joints but a little butter or clear fat, which cannot in the least interfere with the flavour of other meats, but still I would advise that lamb, veal, poultry, and even game, be kept at the top where there is beef, mutton, or pork roasting; this only applies to large establishments.
The above description is applied for the Kitchen of the Wealthy, but I must confess I do not object to a small piece of beef for my Kitchen at Home; I should proceed precisely as above, only procuring a piece of not more than eight, ten, or twelve pounds in weight; put a little water in the dripping-pan, place the beef upon a spit papered as before, put it very near the fire for a few minutes, rub over with butter, then put it back at the distance of two feet; let roast, if weighing from ten to twelve pounds, an hour and a half to two hours, depending much upon the fire, of which any person may judge with or without practice; take it up, dress upon your dish, then have the contents of your dripping-pan in a basin, from which extract the whole of the fat, and pour the gravy over the chine-bones, it will be very good, and save the trouble and expense of making gravy; a couple of Yorkshire puddings, of two eggs each, are very excellent cooked under the meat; before I had a smoke-jack in my small kitchen I used to roast very well with a bit of string. For the cottage kitchen, where there is no smoke-jack provided, you may roast very well with a piece of worsted or string, by hooking it to the meat, and then suspending it to a bracket fixed under the mantel-piece, which will enable you to remove it to any distance you think proper from the fire, making a tea-tray, at the distance of three feet from the fire, act as a screen; the bottle-jacks are not bad, but soon get out of repair.
No. 2.Ribs of Beef.A piece of from twenty to twenty-five pounds makes a very pretty joint; trim neatly by sawing off the tips of the chine-bones to make it stand flat, saw also about three inches from the tips of the ribs, merely sawing through the bones, which detach from the meat, leaving a flap, which fold under and fix with wooden skewers, not, however, pulling it too tight, or it would cause the skin to crack in roasting, which would produce a very bad effect; roast as directed for the sirloin, from two hours and a half to three hours would be sufficient, unless very thick. For a cold joint the ribs are better than the sirloin, which last should always be eaten hot.
At home I often have a piece of ribs of beef weighing from six to eight pounds, and roast by passing a very thin spit through, and placing it down before a moderate fire; or, if in a small cottage, hang it up with string as for the small sirloin; it would take from an hour and five minutes to an hour and a quarter roasting, being perpendicular you may baste it slightly, as it does not receive much nourishment from its own fat.
No. 3.Rump of Beef.This is also a very delicate joint, but can only be had to perfection in the winter months, as it requires hanging from three weeks to a month before it is in readiness to roast to perfection; procure one of from thirty to thirty-five pounds in weight, trim neatly, leaving all the fat, for, taking so long to roast, should it be short of fat it would go to table quite dry; roast it in a cradle-spit as directed for sirloin, but keeping it still further from the fire, and giving it from four hours and a half to five hours roasting, it might also be roasted in paste as directed for haunch of venison (No. 222), or wrap it up in several sheets of paper well buttered, and browned by taking off the paste twenty minutes before removing from the fire.
This bold joint never makes its appearance in my Kitchen at Home, but I have frequently used the piece of fillet attached to it, which weighs from three to five pounds; I leave about an inch of fat upon it, pass a small spit through, and roast from three quarters of an hour to an hour; for gravy I proceed as for the sirloin. Cold potatoes, previously boiled, put under it in the dripping-pan whilst roasting, and turned occasionally, are very excellent.
No. 4.Baron of Beef.It is an old saying that two extremes often meet, so with me, I leave my five pounds’ joint roasting and, like Gulliver, make a step towards the empire of the giant. This is, indeed, a colossal joint, which at first sight would put a modest fire out of conceit, my smoke-jack out of order, and, above all, drive my few guests’ appetites from their frugal stomachs; they not being initiated in the grandeur or importance of a civic or aristocratic banquet would consider it a mighty dish of vulgarity. But stay, friends, I would observe grandeur and magnitude are far from being vulgar; to prove that my assertion is correct I have the opinion of ages, for it is a dish almost as old as England herself. I have before stated that Charles the Second gave the title and importance to the sirloin, and I have no doubt the baron owes its origin also to some such cause or great event, which I will attempt to discover for the information of some of my readers who, like myself, at present may be entirely ignorant of its origin, which I feel assured will prove interesting.
A baron of beef is generally cut from a small ox, and includes the two rumps and two sirloins with one of the rib bones on each side; it must be trussed precisely as for a saddle of mutton; pass a spit, which of course must not be too large, through the spinal-marrow-bone, then wrap the beef up in paste as for a haunch of venison (No. 540), only a little thicker, add also more paper, set it three feet from a brisk fire, pouring fat over the paper to prevent its catching fire, twenty minutes afterwards remove the spit two feet farther from the fire, inclose it well with the fire-screen, and roast eight or nine hours, keeping it turned by hand; half an hour before it is done take off the paste and paper and give the beef a fine gold colour, when take up, dress in a dish with gravy under and serve. The ancient style was to serve a representation of St. George and the dragon, cut from vegetables, upon the top, fresh salad also of every description used to be placed around, but the whole was obliged to be removed at the commencement of carving.
Having promised my readers that I would make all possible inquiry relating to the origin of the inviting joint called baron of beef, a careful search into “Hone” and others, has not, I regret to say, been attended with quite a favorable result, and the only information which I can at present obtain is the legendary one that King John, after signing Magna Charta at Runnymede, partook of a repast in the company of his barons, consisting of the saddle and part of the ribs of beef roasted, and that hence arose the saying “baron of beef.” Now this appears very much like the traveller’s tale that had but one point in its favour, namely, that no one present could possibly contradict it.
No. 5.Round of Beef.“Here,” says John Bull, with a good-humoured countenance (standing near a table upon which was a round of beef being prepared for dressing, clapping his hands upon his knees, and bending with no little difficulty his colossal stomach), “do you know, my excellent friend,” says he to me, “I fear you cannot cook that glorious dish to perfection, for Ihave not yet forgotten your seven hours’ dressing of a leg of mutton (p. 193), so if you are not above receiving a lesson I will give you one which will enable you to dress this all-important dish to perfection; for I prize it as I do my own roast beef of old England, and you must be aware that after the centuries of practice I have had that I must understand some little about it. Well, in the first place, the quality of the meat has a good deal to do with it, of which you have given a fair description, I therefore pass it over; but to proceed: it must be cut pretty freely from the knuckle and placed in a brine-tub, cover well with salt, rub it well in, leave it until the next day, when again rub it with the salt and brine created by the gravy from the meat, rubbing well every other day until it has remained a fortnight, that is, if of a good size, weighing from thirty to thirty-five pounds, if larger or smaller, more or less time, which must be left to your own good judgment, then take it out of the pickle, let drain twenty minutes, take out and form it of a good shape, folding the fat round, which fix with skewers, tying it round with a few yards of very wide tape, tie it up in a thin cloth, and place it in a large stock-pot with plenty of cold water, set upon a good fire and when beginning to boil draw it to the corner, where let simmer five hours, but two hours before it is done put in eight fine carrots, scraped and cut into six or eight pieces, twelve turnips (peeled), and two suet puddings, weighing from two and a half to three pounds each, these articles would, perhaps, cause the water to cease boiling, if so, place it again quite over the fire until it does boil; when done take out the round, let drain ten minutes, take it from the cloth, detach the tape, take out the skewers, replacing them as you take them out with long silver skewers, dress upon a large hot-water dish, and pour over about a quart of the liquor it was boiled in, cut a large slice from the top about two inches and a half in thickness, dress the carrots and turnips tastefully around and serve, with the puddings upon a separate dish, sending one after the other, they will eat much lighter. When upon the table it must be carved with a regular round-of-beef knife (very sharp) in slices not exceeding the thickness of half-a-crown piece, assisting each guest to a slice, also give one third fat, with a little of the carrot and turnip, but never dig the underdone part from the centre to oblige any one, for they that cannot eat from a joint well-cooked and fairly carved are not worthy of having one set before them. Some persons like them, when salted, to cut red quite through, I do not admire it, but it is done by adding two ounces of sal prunella and half a pound of saltpetre to every fifteen pounds of salt used in the pickling. When a round of beef is very large some persons place a tin tube in the centre to boil it, I do not think it a bad plan, as it causes it to cook more regular.”
After receiving the above useful lesson, and being desirous of improving my profession in all its branches, I remembered that amongst the number of joints boiled to serve cold for large civic, agricultural, or benevolent anniversary dinners, the round of beef was the most prominent, and having seen it standing in dishes to get cold, with the dish filled with the gravy that runs from it, particularly if a little overdone, caused me to hit upon the following expedient to prevent the meat losing so much of its succulence: fill two large tubs with cold water, into which throw a few pounds of rough ice, and when the round is done throw it, cloth and all, into one of the tubs of ice water, let remain one minute, when take out and put it into the other tub, fill the first tub again with water, and continue the above process for about twenty minutes, then set it upon a dish, leaving the cloth on until the next day, or until quite cold; when opened the fat will be as white as possible, besides having savedthe whole of the gravy. If no ice, spring water will answer the same purpose, but will require to be more frequently changed; the same mode would be equally successful with the aitch-bone.
The above is a joint which I have always considered too large for my Kitchen at Home, but the aitch-bone or brisket is easily managed.
No. 6.Aitch-bone of Beef.A good-sized one would weigh from fifteen to twenty pounds. Pickle it precisely as directed in the last, but one week would be sufficient, boil nearly three hours, and serve with the vegetables round as before, and a suet pudding separate; if for cold do not take the tape from it until cold, trim the top, run a silver skewer in at the extremity, and serve garnished with sprigs of very green fresh parsley.
No. 7.Brisket of Beef.The whole brisket would require pickling for a week, it must not be too fat; this being a long awkward joint may be cut in two, and served upon separate occasions, boil about five hours and serve as for the last two, with the vegetables around it; when upon table it must be cut into thin slices, fat and lean in fair proportions. The remains of a brisket of beef are excellent when cold.
No. 8.Brisket of Beef à la Garrick.This dish will, I am sure, be as popular with the English public as the celebrated tragedian and comedian whose name I have borrowed, even if he were now alive. Procure a nice brisket of beef with as little fat as possible attached, if too much cut a little of it off, and detach the whole of the bones from it, then make a pickle with twenty pounds of salt, three quarters of a pound of saltpetre, four cakes of sal prunella, two pounds of moist sugar, and two cloves of garlic, with which rub the meat well, and leave it rather more than a week, rubbing and turning it over every day; then drain and cut it into two equal parts, place one upon the other, mixing the fat and lean well, tie them together, and afterwards in a clean cloth, put into a large stewpan or stock-pot containing six gallons of water, and let simmer for eight hours, (but to ascertain correctly if done run a trussing-needle into it, if tender it is quite done;), then take it out and let it remain ten minutes upon a dish to drain, have ready a large tin dish-cover, eighteen inches long, twelve wide, and deep in proportion, place it upon a trivet and put the beef into it, opening the cloth to lie smoothly in the cover, and with a fork arranging the meat, fat and lean together, all over the bottom; you have a common piece of board half an inch in thickness made to fit into the cover, place it upon the meat with half a hundred weight upon it, and let remain in a cold place until the next morning, then take off the weight and the board, pull the cloth gently at each angle, and when loose turn it over upon your dish, take the cloth off gently, garnish with sprigs of parsley, fresh watercresses, and small radishes (if in season), cut in thin strips crosswise. Nothing could be nicer than this for a breakfast or luncheon, it will keep good a fortnight in winter, and as long as a week in the summer by putting it in a cold place. I have frequently made some in my Kitchen at Home, procuring a piece weighing ten or twelve pounds, from the bones and trimmings of which I have also made very excellent soup, which but of course must be fresh. The pickling will answer to salt three or four other joints, as it will keep good nearly a month in summer, and much longer in winter.
No. 9.Haunch of Mutton.The haunch is the most important joint fromthe sheep, it requires but little trimming, and to be hung about three weeks (season permitting). Saw about three inches from the knuckle, detach all the skin from the loin, and put it upon a spit, commencing running the spit in at the knuckle and bringing it out at the flap, avoiding the fillet of the loin (a cradle spit may be used for this joint,) set it down at the distance of two feet from a good solid fire, and if weighing about twenty pounds it requires two hours and a half roasting, ten minutes after it is down rub it over with butter, which you have fixed in the bowl of a wooden spoon, it will form a kind of froth over it, then place it back three feet from the fire, where let it continue until done, if approved of, shake over a little flour from a flour-dredge a quarter of an hour before taking it up, when done dress upon your dish with a paper frill upon the knuckle and about half a pint of gravy under. If the meat is rather fat the butter may be omitted.
No. 10.Soyer’s Saddle-back of Mutton.This is an entirely new joint which I have introduced in this present month, April 1846. I have served it but three times in our coffee-room, where it gave the greatest satisfaction to those who had partaken of it, having dined from fifteen to eighteen each, whilst two saddles, which would weigh six or eight pounds more, would not dine more than seven or eight if badly carved, or more than ten if properly carved in the usual manner. The cut is a correct representation of the appearance of the new joint, which serves to indicate the mode of carving. It is composed of the two loins and two necks of a sheep trimmed into the form of a double saddle, without interfering in the least with the legs and shoulders, which would cause a serious loss to the butcher.
Trim and dispose the saddle-back as follows: saw the centre bone of the back as far as the saddle, dividing it but not cutting the meat or making a hole through, then with a small saw divide each joint, so as to admit of the necks being cut into chops in carving, when well separated take a piece of a good length from the ends of the rib bones, trim the flaps, turn them under, fixing them with skewers and string, giving the proper shape as the design represents, pull the skin from the whole back, melt two ounces of butter, which rub over with a paste brush to give a good appearance and let remain five or six days previous to roasting, weather permitting. To roast, pass a long saddle-of-mutton spit through the spinal-marrow-bone, bringing it out at the ends of the necks, fix it to a larger spit, and place at a good distance from a moderate fire for nearly three hours; avoid basting, but a quarter of an hour before taking up shake a little flour mixed with some finely-ground rice over, which is very good for a little change. This joint looks very noble, and does not appear too large when roasted. For a small dinner a saddlebackof Welsh mutton or lamb will make a very fine remove. To carve, commence by passing your knife down the back where nothing but the meat and skin holds it together, and from thence crosswise to the flap, serving a cutlet and a slice between to each person, continuing the same way through the saddle; you will thus carve the meat according to the grain, and produce fresh hot gravy for each person as you proceed carving. Should any remain, it is fit either to be sent cold to table or dressed otherwise advantageously.
No. 11.Saddle of Mutton.Procure a fine saddle of mutton, about fourteen pounds in weight, that has been kept some time, take off the skin with a knife, and skewer the flaps under, run a lark-spit through the spinal marrow-bone, which spit affix to a larger one, and place down to roast as directed for the saddle-back; it will require about an hour and three quarters roasting, and must be carved as in the last.
No. 12.Leg of Mutton.A leg weighing eight pounds would take about an hour and a half roasting; run the spit in under the thigh-bone and bring it out at the knuckle, roast it as described for the haunch, and send to table with a frill upon the knuckle.
When I have a leg of mutton to roast in my kitchen I make a small incision at the knuckle two or three days before roasting, in which I put two or three cloves of garlic, it will give the mutton a fine and peculiar flavour, not at all resembling the strong, and to some objectionable, flavour of garlic. I frequently serve it with haricot beans under it, dressed as directed (No. 1094).
No. 13.Shoulder of Muttonof seven or eight pounds weight will require about one hour roasting; run the spit in at the flap and bring it out at the knuckle, observe the same directions as before, not basting, but merely rubbing it over with the butter.
No. 14.Loin of Mutton.A loin weighing six pounds would require an hour to roast; take off all the skin with a knife, and separate the joints with a chopper, not cutting through the fillet; run a lark-spit through from one extremity to the other and affix it to a larger spit, observe the same directions in roasting as for the haunch. This is a very favorite dish of mine at home, where I in general joint it with a meat-saw so as to enable me to carve it into thin slanting chops, which look so much more inviting in the plate than those huge pieces which are generally carved.
No. 15.Neck of Mutton.This I call a very recherché little joint when well kept; it must be nicely trimmed, sawing through the bones at the tips of the ribs, which detach from the meat, folding the flap over; saw off the chine-bone, and with a knife detach the remainder of the bone from the fillet, detach the skin from the upper part, fix the flap under with a couple of skewers, run a long flat iron skewer through the centre, from one extremity to the other, fix it to a larger spit, roast (if weighing five pounds) nearly three quarters of an hour, observing the same directions as before, carve it crosswise, cutting it in cotelettes, one of which, with a bone, serve to each guest.
No. 16.Boiled Leg of Mutton.Cut the knuckle from a leg of mutton which has been hung some time, put into an oval braising-pan well covered with cold water, in which you have put two ounces of salt, place it upon a sharp fire until boiling, when skim well, and place it upon the corner of the fire to simmer about two hours, that is, if the leg does not exceed more thannine pounds in weight; about half an hour before it is done add a dozen turnips, peeled and cut into quarters, when done take it up, dress upon a dish with the turnips around, place a frill upon the knuckle, pour nearly half a pint of the liquor it was boiled in over, and serve with caper sauce (No. 67) in a boat. Observe, in boiling any description of meat, fast boiling would not cook it any quicker, but cause it to eat very hard and bad.
At home I have tried to cook them by placing them in the water whilst boiling, and when again beginning to boil drawing it to the corner of the fire; it certainly saves a little time, but does not eat so tender as when put into cold water. I generally there mash turnips and serve them separately (I do not like them plain and watery, although I consider they must be much more wholesome). Place the turnips when boiled into a stewpan, add half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, two ounces of butter with which you have mixed half a tablespoonful of flour, and four tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, mix all well together over the fire with a wooden spoon. For caper sauce I mix a tablespoonful of flour with an ounce of butter and put it in a smallish stewpan, add half a pint of the liquor the mutton was boiled in, stir over the fire until upon the point of boiling, when add a quarter of a tablespoonful of salt, quarter that quantity of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and a good spoonful of drained pickled capers; then add another ounce of butter, shake round over the fire, and when melted it is finished. I sometimes also add a spoonful of liaison, it gives it a rich colour.
No. 17.Shoulder of Mutton (boiled). Choose a very tender one, weighing about seven pounds, cut off the knuckle, and boil it as above; one hour and a half would be sufficient.
Welsh Mutton.—No. 18.Saddle-back of Welsh Mutton.Trim and truss it as South Down mutton, it will take one hour less roasting; you may butter twice over.
No. 19.Haunch.If weighing twelve pounds roast it an hour and a half as directed (in proportion) for the haunch of mutton, but if deficient of fat rub it over with butter three or four times instead of once.
No. 20.Saddle.If weighing eight pounds roast it an hour and a quarter.
No. 21.Leg.If weighing five pounds roast it an hour.
No. 22.Loin.If weighing four pounds roast three quarters of an hour.
No. 23.Neck.If weighing three pounds roast it half an hour.
No. 24.Shoulder.If weighing four pounds roast it three quarters of an hour. Loin and neck about the same time.
No. 25.Lambis divided into but three principal joints, being the fore-quarter, haunch, and saddle, two joints may be made of each by separating the shoulder from the ribs, the leg from the loin, or dividing the saddle, but they are usually roasted together.
To trim the fore-quarter saw off the chine-bone, and break the rib-bones down the centre, pass two iron skewers from the breast to the back, and a lark-spit through lengthwise, fix it upon a larger spit, cover a sheet of buttered paper over the top, and roast an hour and a quarter before a good fire, rubbing butter over it, it would be a light gold colour; should the shoulder have been taken off it will only require three quarters of an hour to roast, serve in a dish with a little gravy under, and mint sauce in a boat.
The haunch must be trimmed by cutting off the shank-bone, place it upon a small spit by running the spit in at the extremity of the loin, passing overthe thigh-bone, and bringing it out at the knuckle, which tie to the spit with a piece of string; place a sheet of buttered paper over, and roast an hour and three-quarters before a solid fire; place a frill upon the knuckle, and serve as before. The leg only would require one hour roasting.
For the saddle, skewer the flaps underneath, curling each one round, run a lark-spit through the spinal marrow-bone, and fix it to a larger spit; place a sheet of buttered paper over, and roast an hour and a half before a good fire, dress upon your dish and serve as for the fore-quarter.
No. 26.Fillet of Veal.Choose it of the best quality, as described at the commencement of this series. Procure a leg, saw off the knuckle, take out the bone in the centre of the fillet, and fill up the cavity with some stuffing made as directed (No. 127), fold the udder and flap round, which fix with three skewers; place half a sheet of buttered foolscap paper top and bottom, which tie over and over with plenty of string, run a spit through, fixing the fillet with a hold-fast, set down to roast, placing it rather close to the fire ten minutes, rub well over with butter, then place it at least two feet and a half from the fire, to roast very slowly, giving it a fine gold colour; a fillet weighing sixteen pounds would require three hours roasting, when done, take it up, detach all the string and paper, trim the top and set it upon your dish; have a pint of melted butter in a stewpan upon the fire, to which, when boiling, add four spoonfuls of Harvey sauce, and two of mushroom catsup, mix well, and pour round the fillet; have also boiled nicely an ox-tongue, which skin and trim, dress upon a dish surrounded with greens or cabbage nicely boiled, and serve as an accompaniment to the fillet.
In my small kitchen I, however, content myself with a nice piece of streaked bacon, of about two pounds in weight, boiled and served surrounded with greens or turnip-tops if in season. For the different modes of dressing the remainder, see the Entrées, Kitchen at Home.
No. 27.Loin of Veal.Procure one with plenty of fat and a nice kidney in it, cut off the chump, take away the rib-bone at the other extremity, and fasten the flap over the kidney with a skewer, run a spit through lengthwise (not too thick a one), commencing at the thickest end, and fixing it at the other extremity with a hold-fast, tie it up in a sheet of oiled paper; if weighing fourteen pounds it will require two hours and a quarter to roast, serve with sauce and tongue, or bacon, as in the last, upon a separate dish. At home I usually content myself with the chump, as taken from the loin, either roasting or boiling it, should it weigh four pounds it would require an hour roasting, or an hour and a quarter boiling; if roasted, serve with bacon and the same sauce as for the fillet, but if boiled I make half the quantity of sauce as for boiled leg of mutton, but omitting the capers, and adding a spoonful of roughly-chopped, fresh, green parsley. Dress the remains the second day as directed in the Entrées, Kitchen at Home.
No. 28.Breast of Veal.Procure a nice breast of veal, which trim as directed (No. 455), stuff the interior with a long roll of stuffing (No. 127), roll the flaps over and sew it up with a trussing-needle and string, place it upon a spit, running it through lengthwise, and roast one hour and a quarter as directed for the loin, serve with the same sauce, and bacon and greens separate. The breast of veal stewed is also good, but for the details I must refer to the Removes in the first part of this work. At home I stew them, and add a few heads of celery with the stock it is stewing in, which I afterwardsdress round the veal, and make a little white sauce similar to No. 7, with some of the liquor it was stewed in, or thicken the sauce with a little butter and flour, and add a gill of milk.
No. 29.Shoulder of Veal.A shoulder weighing fourteen pounds would require two hours and a half to roast, and three hours to boil, serve with a parsley and butter sauce if boiled, or if roasted, with sauce as for the fillet; bacon and greens must be served with it separate, whichever way it is dressed.
Should you boil the shoulder add a few vegetables, and you may reduce the stock it was boiled in to a glaze (by continual boiling), which will be very serviceable in dressing the remains upon following days; by boiling a calf’s foot with the shoulder you would produce a much greater quantity of glaze.
No. 30.Neck of Vealis usually served as the shoulder, either roasted or stewed, with vegetables, but I have described a number of methods of dressing it in the Removes of the first department of this work.
No. 31.Knuckle of Vealis a very favorite dish of mine; I procure two of them, which I saw into three pieces each, and put into a stewpan with a piece of streaked bacon two pounds in weight, four onions, a carrot, two turnips, and six peppercorns, place over the fire, and when boiling add a little salt, skim well, and place at the corner to simmer gently for two hours, take up, dress them in your dish surrounded with the vegetables and bacon, and serve with parsley and butter over; very good soup may be made from the stock it was boiled in if required, or if not, into glaze, which put by until wanted.
No. 32.Leg of Pork.Choose the pork as described at the commencement of this series, if a leg, one weighing about seven pounds, cut an incision in the knuckle near the thigh, into which put a quantity of sage and onions, previously passed in butter, sew the incision up with packthread, score the rind of the pork in lines across, half an inch apart, place upon a spit, running it in just under the rind, and bringing it out at the knuckle. If stuffed the day previous to roasting it would improve its flavour; roast, if weighing seven pounds, about two hours and a half, and serve with apple sauce in a boat.
I often roast a small leg of pork at home as directed above, and make apple sauce thus: peel and slice six nice apples, which put into a stewpan, with a tablespoonful of currants well washed and picked, and one of brown sugar, a little of the rind of a lemon chopped very fine, six spoonfuls of water, and a very small piece of cinnamon, boil until in purée, then stir in a handful of bread-crumbs, and serve hot. When, however, I am in a great hurry I merely put apples, water, sugar, and a little rind of lemon. Other joints of pork are roasted in the same manner, but do not require stuffing, a loin weighing six pounds requiring two hours and a quarter to roast; a neck of the same size will take about the same time, as will the spare-ribs, which is nothing but the necks of larger pork with the blade-bone cut out and the fat taken off.
No. 33.Salt Pork.Pork is salted in the same manner as described for beef, omitting the saltpetre, but of course not requiring so long a time; a leg weighing seven pounds would be well salted in a week, as also would a hand and spring weighing about ten pounds, and either would require twohours boiling, putting them in a stewpan with cold water, and serving with carrots and greens upon a separate dish. With the leg it is also customary to serve a pease pudding made thus: tie about a pint of split peas loosely in a pudding-cloth, throw them into boiling water to stew until tender, then take them up, turn from the cloth upon the back of a hair sieve, through which force them with a wooden spoon, put them into a basin, add two ounces of butter, season with pepper and salt, mix well with six whole eggs, tie up tightly in a pudding-cloth, boil an hour and serve very hot.
A pig’s head is also excellent pickled. Divide the head in two, take out the brains and detach the jaw-bones, pickle it twelve days, rubbing it every day, (the brine in which you have pickled one joint, with the addition of more salt, would pickle several and keep good for upwards of a month;) when ready, boil it nearly three hours, and serve with greens round as an accompaniment to veal or poultry. To pickle it red, rub it well with twelve pounds of salt, a quarter of a pound of saltpetre, two cakes of sal prunella, and half a pound of coarse sugar, rub it every day, allowing it to remain fifteen days in pickle, after which it maybe hung, and dried or smoked previously to dressing.
Preaching economy which has been practised from age to age in all domestic works is not here my intention, as my readers must quickly perceive that the simplicity of my receipts excludes the seal of extravagance, having simplified even dishes of some importance, which daily give and have given the greatest satisfaction at the Reform Club.
The regular courses of a cuisine bourgeoise, or domestic cookery, will be found extremely easy to execute in my Kitchen at Home, and numbers of them done to perfection in the Kitchen (or sanctorum) of a Bachelor, as well as in the small Cottage Kitchen.
No. 34.French Pot-au-feu.Out of this earthen pot comes the favorite soup and bouilli, which have been everlastingly famed as having been the support of several generations of all classes of society in France; from the opulent to the poorest individuals, all pay tribute to its excellence and worth. In fact this soup and bouilli are to the French what the roast beef and plum-pudding are on a Sunday to the English. No dinner in France is served without soup, and no good soup is supposed to be made without the pot-au-feu. Generally every quarter of a century makes a total alteration in fashions and politics, need I say also in cookery, which must be approximated not only to the fashion but more strongly so to the political world, humbly bending its indispensable services to the whims and wishes of crowned heads, which invariably lead the multitude; for example, the bills of fare of the sumptuous dinners which used to grace the tables of Louis the Fourteenth, Sixteenth, and Eighteenth, of France, were all very different to each other, and none of them were ever copied to grace the sumptuous and luxurious tables of the Empire; even the very features of them having undergone an entire change in our own days; every culinary invention taking its title and origin from some celebrated personage or extraordinary event, every innovation in cookery, like a change in fashion, causing us to forget those dishes which they have superseded; I have no doubt but that, if some correct historian could collect the bills of fare of dinners from various centuries and nations which crownedheads have partaken of, he might write a very interesting volume under the title of History of Cookery, in which we should be able closely to trace the original history of different countries.[23]Nothing can stamp the anniversary of any great event so well as a sumptuous banquet: peace, war, politics, and even religion, have always been the cause of extraordinary and sometimes monstrous gastronomic meetings; for a proof of which my readers will find at the end of this work a correct bill of fare (found in the Tower of London,) of a dinner given by the Earl of Warwick at the installation of an Archbishop of York, in the year 1470. In time of war artists are engaged sketching on immense canvasses the horrors and disasters of a battle, while in peace they sketch the anniversary banquets for the victorious, in honour of the event, (reminding us of the calm after a storm;) and we may sincerely hope, for the credit of humanity at large, that a disastrous battle may have its hundreds of anniversary banquets without a fresh combat. But to return to the humble but indispensable science of cookery. Everything seems to prove to us that it has always performed an important part in political events, and has been exposed to as many alterations; still, amongst so many changes, it is with a national pleasure that I find, amongst the heap of frivolous culinary ruins, an old favorite of our great great-grandfathers still remaining ours, having boldly passed through every storm, it has for ever established its culinary power upon our changeable soil. The brown cheek of this demi-immortal is daily seen ornamenting the firesides of millions, and merely acquaints the children the first thing in the morning that something good is in preparation for their dinner: this mighty vessel is called in Frenchpot-au-feu,[24]in which is made that excellent and wholesome luxury which for centuries has been the principal nourishment and support of the middling and poorer classes of France at a very trifling expense. It is not upon the tables of the wealthy that the best of this national soup is to be obtained, but upon the right or left side of the entrance to his noble mansion, in a square, oval, or octagonal room, commonly calledla Loge du Portier, or the Porter’s Lodge; as nearly every porter has his portière, that is, a wife who answers the door (whilst her husband is doing the frottage, or polishing the floor of the apartment), while pulling the string or wire which loosens the lock to let people in with one hand, she skims thepot-au-feuwith the other; should she be fortunate enough to possess two eyes she would keep one upon herpot-au-feu, and the other upon the individual, who had, probably, come only to make inquiry; but unfortunately for La Mère Binard (whom I shall have the pleasure of introducing to my readers as a gastronomic wonder in her simple style), she had but one eye, which she almost entirely devoted to the ebullition of herpot-au-feu; having been portière there two-and-thirty years, she knew most of the people in the habit of calling by their voice, and used to answer them even without turning her shaking head. But what brought her domestic cookery in such high repute, that she was not to be excelled by any portière of Paris, was, that one day her master, M. le Comte de C**** (who was a good gentleman and great epicure), came home from a long ride while she was performing her humble occupation of pouring the soup into the tureen; a triple knock came to the door, which immediately opened as by electricity, and in walked her belovedmaster, who came to the door of the lodge to pay his duties to his old and faithful servant, whilst an exhalation of the most delicious fragrance perfumed the small apartment from the boiling consommé which attracted his scientific attention; after a short inquiry he discovered in an old brown pan the gloriously smoking hot consommé, and seizing with avidity a spoon by the side, tasted (much to the astonishment of La Mère Binard) several spoonfuls, pronouncing the first delicious, the second excellent, the third delightful, in fact, magnificent. “Can you spare any of it?” he said, addressing the worthy dame. “Yes,” said she, “but I am sure Monseigneur does not mean it.” “But indeed I do,” replied he; “and if I had been aware I could have obtained such a treasure, I would have had nothing else for my dinner to-day; and if you were not so far advanced in years I would not object to make you acordon bleu.” The earthen pan was immediately conveyed up stairs to the dining-room, and deposited upon the table of his seigneurie, where an excellent dinner was waiting for himself and friends; but the immortalpot-au-feu, resting on a superb silver tray, with its handle half broken off, made all the homage of the dinner, to the great annoyance of the cook, who had thus sacrificed the art he had displayed in dressing a most recherché dinner, and felt much offended at the whim of his wealthy master, who had neglected his dinner to take pot-luck with his porter’s wife.
By a friendly introduction to La Mère Binard, I, with a great deal of supplication, obtained from her the following valuable receipt, having been obliged first to listen to the constant repetition of the above anecdote before she could explain it to me.—“I generally choose,” says she, “a bit of thegite à la noix, part of the aitch-bone, a piece of the rump, or a slice from the thickest part of the leg, weighing from four to five pounds, with sufficient fat attached, or adding a small piece; then I put it into the earthen pan, and fill with cold water till within two inches of the rim, being about four quarts; then I set it by my wood fire until beginning to get hot, when a thin scum will arise by degrees, which I carefully take off and throw away; then I add half a pound of beef liver, and a tablespoonful and a half of salt, it will produce more scum, which also carefully remove; have ready prepared, well washed and clean, two middling-sized carrots cut in halves, then in four, two small pieces of parsnip, four turnips, two onions, with two cloves stuck in each, eight young leeks, or two old ones, a head of celery cut into pieces three inches in length, tie the leeks and celery into a bunch, and put altogether into thepot-au-feu, set it alone nearer the fire until it commences boiling, skim again, draw it a little farther to the corner of the fire, put a wooden skimmer across the pot, upon which rest the lid to prevent its boiling fast, (which would entirely spoil the soup, the meat becoming very hard and the soup thick and muddy).” “You quite astonish me, Mrs. Binard,” said I. “Oh,” says she, “I have had so many years of experience, and I know it to be the case.” “Yes,” said I, “my dear lady, I do not in the least doubt your correctness.” “Well, then, one hour afterwards I add a little cold water to keep it to the same quantity, put in a burnt onion to give it a colour, and let simmer four hours, sometimes five, depending if the meat is cut very thick; then I cut some large thin slices of bread, which I lay at the bottom of the tureen, then I take off the greater part of the fat, cut the bunch of celery and leeks open, lay them upon the slices of bread, with one of the carrots, two turnips, and the pieces of parsnip; take half of the broth with a ladle, which pour into the tureen, (there being quite enough soup for six of us, myself, Binard, my daughter and her husband, and thetwo boys); then I take out carefully the meat, which I lay upon the dish, with half of the liver at the side, the other half, when cold, I give to Minette (her favorite cat), lay the remainder of the vegetables round, with some fine sprigs of fresh parsley; by that time the bread is (trempé) moistened; set both upon the table at once, keeping the meat covered until we have done with the soup: that is the way we dine upon a Sunday. The next day, with the remainder of the broth I make vermicelli or rice soup, or the same with bread in it, and fricassée the remainder of the beef in various ways. When my daughter was ill I used to put a calf’s foot in thepot-au-feuwith the beef; it made the soup very strengthening and did her much good.” “Will you be kind enough,” said I, “to tell me where you get these burnt onions, for I perceive without it your soup would be quite white.” “Bless you, sir!” she replied, “you may get six for two sous at any of the grocers, or you can burn them yourself in the oven, or by the fireside, gently turning them now and then until they are quite black, but not burnt to a cinder, or it would spoil the flavour of the soup.” I then took leave of her, returning thanks for her kindness, and put down the receipt as she gave it me during her long explanation, as follows:
Receipt.Put in thepot-au-feusix pounds of beef, four quarts of water, set near the fire; skim, when nearly boiling add a spoonful and a half of salt, half a pound of liver, two carrots, four turnips, eight young or two old leeks, one head of celery, two onions and one burnt, with a clove in each, and a piece of parsnip; skim again and let simmer four or five hours, adding a little cold water now and then; take off part of the fat, put slices of bread into the tureen, lay half the vegetables over, and half the broth, and serve the meat separate with the vegetables around. Since I have been in England I have broken my precious earthen pot; I have, however, made some very good soups at home in a black saucepan or stewpan, but must admit not quite so delicate and perfect as in the identicalpot de terre.
SOUPS.—No. 35.Julienne Soup.Put about six pounds of knuckle of veal in a stewpan cut in four pieces, with about half a pound of streaked bacon; put a piece of butter at the bottom of the stewpan, and about half a pint of water, place it over a sharp fire, moving it round occasionally with a wooden spoon until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze, when add about a gallon of water, two ounces of salt, three onions (with two cloves in each), two turnips, one carrot, a head of celery, leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; when boiling put in two burnt onions (seePot-au-feu) to colour it, and stand it at the corner of the fire to simmer for two hours, keeping it well skimmed, then pass the broth through a hair sieve into a stewpan; you have previously cut two middling-sized carrots, two turnips, an onion, a leek, and a little celery into very thin strips an inch long; put them in another stewpan with two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; place it upon a sharp fire, tossing them over occasionally until well fried and looking transparent, then put them into the broth with the half a young cos lettuce, and a little tarragon and chervil, place it at the corner of your fire, and when it boils skim off all the butter: let it simmer until the vegetables are perfectly tender, when pour it into your tureen; serve the veal and piece of bacon upon the dish with melted butter and chopped parsley over. Beef may also be used for the above, and the vegetables cut in any of the shapes directed for the soups in the other department of this work; if you only require a smaller quantity, take only three pounds, or diminish all in proportion.
No. 36.Mutton Broth.Any description of trimmings of mutton may be used for broth, but the scrag end of the neck is usually chosen. Put about two scrags into a stewpan (having previously jointed the bone), with three onions (a couple of cloves stuck in each), three turnips, one carrot, and a bunch containing a leek, a head of celery, and a few sprigs of thyme and parsley, fill up the stewpan with rather more than a gallon of water; when boiling skim it, and place it at the corner of the stove, where let it simmer for three hours, then cut a small carrot, two turnips, an onion, and a piece of leek and celery into very small square pieces, put them into a stewpan with a wineglassful of pearl barley, pass the broth through a hair sieve over them, and boil at the corner of the fire until the barley is tender, when it is ready to serve; the meat may be trimmed into neat pieces, and served in the broth, or separately with melted butter and parsley, or onion sauce.
No. 37.Irish Mutton Broth.This broth is made similar to the last, adding ten or twelve mealy potatoes cut in large dice, which by boiling to a purée thickens the broth; just before serving throw in twenty heads of parsley, at the same time put in a few flowers of marigolds, which really give a pleasing flavour; it is then ready to serve.
At home I make clear soup of the trimmings of any meat, either beef, veal, mutton, or lamb, or the trimmings of two or three different sorts of meat, in the same manner as directed for Julienne soup.
No. 38.A very simple Receipt for the Scotch Cock-a-Leeky.This is a very favorite national soup with the Scotch, which by rights ought to have been the pride of Welsh cookery, ranking as high in the estimation of millions as their celebrated and generally appreciated rarebit, commonly called a Welsh rabbit.
Take six or eight pounds of leg of beef (depending upon the quantity you want to make), with which make a stock as directed for Julienne soup, letting simmer two hours, and keeping it well skimmed; in the mean time trim two or three bunches of fine winter leeks, cutting off the roots and part of the head, then split each in halves lengthwise, and each half in three, wash well in two or three waters, pass the stock through a sieve into another stewpan, into which put the leeks, with a fowl trussed as for boiling, let simmer very gently at the corner of the fire for three hours, keeping it well skimmed, season a little if required, and half an hour before serving add two dozen French plums, without breaking them; when ready to serve, take out the fowl, which cut into neat pieces, place in a large tureen, and pour the leeks and broth over, the leeks being then partly in purée; if too thick, however, add a drop more broth or water. Should the leeks happen to be old and strong, it would be better to blanch them five minutes in a gallon of boiling water previously to putting them with the stock. Although an old cock is usually procured in Scotland for the above purpose, I prefer a young one, but should an old one be most handy, stew it a short time in the stock before passing it.
No. 39.Ox-tail Soup.Cut up two ox-tails, separating them at the joint, put a small piece of butter at the bottom of a stewpan, then put in the ox-tails, with a carrot, turnip, three onions, head of celery, one leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, add half a pint of water and twelve grains of whole pepper, set over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally until thebottom of the stewpan is covered with a thickish brown glaze; then add a quarter of a pound of flour, stir it well in, and fill up the stewpan with three quarts of water, add a tablespoonful of salt, stir occasionally until boiling, when set it upon the corner of the stove, skim well, and let simmer until the tails are stewed very tender, the flesh coming easily from the bone; take them out immediately and put them into your tureen; pass the soup, which must not be too thick, through a hair sieve over them, add a head of celery previously cut small and blanched in a little stock, and serve.
Ox-tail soup may also be made clear by omitting the flour, and serving vegetables in it as directed in Julienne soup (No. 35), but cut in any other shape.
No. 40.Ox-cheek Soup.Blanch and wash well two ox-cheeks, cut off the beard, take away all the bone, which chop up, and cut the flesh into middling-sized pieces, leaving the cheek part whole, put altogether into a stewpan, with four quarts of water, a little salt, ten peppercorns, two carrots, two turnips, one leek, one head of celery, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, also a burnt onion to colour it; let stew at the corner of the fire six hours, keeping well skimmed, then take out the fleshy part of the cheek and pass the broth through a hair sieve into another stewpan, mix half a pound of flour with a pint of cold broth, which pour into it and stir over the fire until boiling, place it at the corner, let simmer till tender (adding two heads of celery cut very fine, and a glass of sherry); when the celery is tender, cut the meat in small square slices, keep them warm, and when the soup is ready pour over and serve. Sheep’s or lambs’ heads also make very good soup by following the above receipt, and adding two pounds of veal, mutton, or beef to the stock, two heads would be sufficient, and they would not require so long to stew.
No. 41.New Mock Turtle Soup.Procure half a calf’s head (scalded, not skinned), bone it, then cut up a knuckle of veal, which put into a stewpan, with half a pound of lean ham, two ounces of butter, one of salt, at the bottom, a carrot, one turnip, three onions, a head of celery, a leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, marjoram, basil, and a bay-leaf, with nearly half a pint of water; move round occasionally upon the fire until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze; then add six quarts of water, and put in the half head, let simmer at the corner of the fire for two hours and a half, or till the head is perfectly tender, when take it up and press it between two dishes, pass the stock through a hair sieve into a basin; then in another stewpan have a quarter of a pound of butter, with a sprig of thyme, basil, marjoram, and a bay-leaf, let the butter get quite hot; then add six ounces of flour to form a roux, stir over a sharp fire a few minutes, keeping it quite white, stand it off the fire to cool, then add the stock, boil up, skim, and pass it through a hair sieve into another stewpan, cut the head into pieces an inch square, not too thick, and put them into the soup, which season with a little cayenne pepper; when the pieces are hot, add a gill of cream, and pour it into your tureen. The above quantity will make several tureens of soup, and will keep good several days.