FROCKS FOR TO-MORROW.
By“THE LADY DRESSMAKER.”
Onesign of high summer in London is an odd one, and that is the presence of handsome furs in the West-End shop-windows, where they may be seen any day after June has once begun. I used to think people bought them, even when the thermometer was registering 68° in the shade; but I have found cause to think that they are simply displayed in the window as a measure of safety, for light, sunshine, air, and dryness are the chief enemies of the moth, and both May and June are the worst of months in which they do their deadly work on the costliest of our raiment. In the shops where furs are kept, they are beaten with tiny canes, and exposed as much to the air and light as possible. So we may take a leaf from this open book, and perhaps save ourselves loss and disappointment. Of course, I do not mean that furs should be faded by exposure to the sun; but if they were really good and undyed, a little sunshine would not hurt them, though too much may do them harm.
This year furs were used up to June, as the weather remained cold till then; but there was not enough sun to do them harm. Nevertheless, I lean to the idea that they are best left off early, both for the health of the furs and of ourselves, many people being inclined to wear them too long. In the present month they will need attention—shaking, airing, and beating, and a general careful looking-over.
THREE NEW GOWNS.
THREE NEW GOWNS.
THREE NEW GOWNS.
One of the most frequently remarked peculiarities of the present day is the kind ofwobbling way adopted by many women and girls when they walk. They go from one foot to the other just like a duck. Now, I know I have said this before, but I am desirous of saying it again, because I am told that the matter is even more serious than I fancied, and that there are many more operations in the hospitals now than there were for various foot troubles. Also I have been informed that the number of chiropodists has trebled in London during the past three or four years—really since the pointed-toe shoes came into fashion. There is no doubt, as we look at one of these ungraceful walkers, that the reason lies either in their present or their past foot-gear. One of the most usual sources of trouble is our universal fashion of wearing too heavy shoes or boots, with too thick soles. In fact, they are altogether too thick and heavy for warm weather. A lighter shoe would be equally good and serviceable, and even if itdidget damp and need changing, we could manage this easily on our return home. Follow two rules in the choice of your shoes. Choose those which do not compress nor curl your toes under when wearing them, and remember that a shoe is as bad when too large as when too small. A thin stocking is better than a thick one; and I have seen many people recently who have obtained ease and comfort by dismissing merino, wool, and spun silk, and adopting cotton for winter, and thread for summer. I think a thick cotton stocking quite as warm as a thick woollen one.
TWO LONG TUNICS.
TWO LONG TUNICS.
TWO LONG TUNICS.
The linen collar is far less used this season with blouses than it was last year. Instead we see lace ties, and lace and silk scarfs. It is wonderful how pretty an effect is produced by using a lace scarf and one or two paste brooches or pins, which look so well in the filmy folds of the lace. The lace has a far softer effect than the plain severe collar, andthis is a question that every girl must consider for herself. An easy way is to have a long lace scarf, not more than five inches wide, and to put it on from the front to the back, crossing it there, and bringing the ends to the front, where they should be long enough to be tied under the chin in a lightly-knotted bow, in which may be placed some paste pins, or the tiny brooches so much used at present.
A POINTED TUNIC.
A POINTED TUNIC.
A POINTED TUNIC.
If I were asked what was the favourite colour, I should very certainly respond “Blue” to that question. But there are blues and blues; and I have seen so many that it is difficult to say which is the ruling hue. A very bright shade is certainly much liked, which is quite of the old Royal-blue description. Plaids and stripes are much on the increase, and I should not be surprised if we were to see a winter of them. These very narrow skirts are well suited to the cutting of striped materials, which are arranged with a seam in front and one at the back, the stripes meeting in points like arrow-heads at both these seams. There are also many spotted materials, and any number of ribbed and smooth cloths, of varying degrees of thickness. Serge, too, is much in evidence, and is as popular as ever, and so is woollen poplin and Venetian cloth. Satin is as much used, and as fashionable as it was; but fancy silks of all kinds seem to have been less liked than muslins were during the warmest days of the summer; while the satin-faced foulards were very pretty, but were not so popular as they promised to be.
The shoe most worn this season has been the Cromwell shoe, having a buckle for ordinary daily use with afternoon attire. But where evening dress is concerned, there has been a great development in luxury, and they are now made of brocade and velvet; and as to the buckles, you may expend any amount you like upon them, for they are sometimes set with precious stones, and are really beautiful. As yet, these shoes are exotics, and only worn by a few, but no doubt the brocaded ones have been copied from those of the time of Elizabeth, which have been shown at the various exhibitions held of late years.
There has been rather a revival in the fashion of cycling, which has recently suffered rather an eclipse, and there is a very great improvement in the style and cut of skirts for this exercise, and also in the general appearance of women a-wheel. The new method is to sit high and straight, with the handle-bars within easy reach; and there seems much less exertion in the management of the machine than when the seat was lower. The cut of the new skirts is so good that they hang down on either side of the machine quite straight, and there is plenty of room for pedalling without any of that ungraceful drawing up of the knees and of the skirt as well that used to be seen and is noticeable even yet when some careless rider passes us by. We have all, I suppose, read the Prime Minister’s speech about the ungracefulness of the attire used in wheeling, and I for one feel quite grateful to him for his plain speaking. So far as in each of us lies, we should strive to be graceful, and as pretty as possible, while on our favourite iron steed. The pattern of these skirts is sold at several paper pattern depôts, so they can be cut and made at home.
The seated figure in our illustration, which shows a simulated tunic trimming on the skirt, wears a pretty gown of pale grey summer-cloth, the bands on the skirt and on the gown bodice being of embroidered purple silk, while the vest in front is of pale green silk, and bands of cream-coloured silk embroidery on cream silk. The same embroidery heads the flounce at the bottom of the skirt. The lining of this gown is of purple silk; and it has a grey hat and grey and purple ostrich feathers to wear with it.
The group of “Three New Gowns” begins to show some slight evidences of autumnal styles, especially the lady in the centre, who wears a light fawn-coloured braided jacket, with a skirt of light brown cloth, which is scalloped with velvet of a darker shade, the lower flounce being embroidered also in silks of a darker brown. This is a charming autumnal costume for short visits and journeys in England. The hat is a sailor one, trimmed as these hats generally are at present, with more or less elaboration. The present one has trimmings of yellow chiffon, with wheatears laid over it.
The figure on the left hand wears an embroidered and ribbon-trimmed gown of blacksatin, the front of the skirt and vest being of pale lemon-coloured silk, with chiffon of the same hue, and bands of ribbon. The hat is of the new burnt straw, and is trimmed with white chiffon, with poppies and bunches of oats arranged amongst it. The right-hand figure wears one of the new scarf bodices, crossed over in front, a shirt-front of white silk, and a light green tie. The dress is of figured poplin, with bands of green silk on the skirt. The toque is of crinoline, with green and black chiffon, and black ostrich feathers.
The newest style is to have a neck and waist-band of a different colour from the rest of the dress. For instance, if the gown be mauve, the velvet at the neck or waist may be of pale blue or pale green, and with a black gown orange is much worn. There has been a great feeling towards mixed colours, and it is quite wonderful how we have got over the old idea that it was both vulgar and ugly to wear many colours, or to mix two incongruous materials in one gown.
The third illustration shows two charming gowns. The one on the extreme right wears one of the new satin foulards of dark blue, with a small white pattern on it. It is trimmed with light blue ribbon in scallops round the skirt and up the side, the sleeves, and the yoke. The last-named is of white silk, and so is the under-skirt. The second figure wears a dress of white figured muslin, the bodice trimmed with ruffles, and the vest is of tucked muslin. Straps of ribbon are on the top of the sleeve and round the points of the tunic and waist. The under-skirt is of muslin flounced, and with folds of muslin between each. This model would be suitable for a coloured muslin, as well as a white one.
The bolero has retained its popularity throughout the whole of the season, and has quite superseded the longer jacket for afternoon and dress wear. There are also revers to nearly all dresses. But I am assured that our autumn novelties will be minus both these items, and that the long three-quarter coat is likely to be the garment of the winter.