1John Radmore, chief carpenter’s mate, and William Maskell, able seaman.2Radmore, Jolliffe, and Maskell.
1John Radmore, chief carpenter’s mate, and William Maskell, able seaman.
2Radmore, Jolliffe, and Maskell.
CHAPTER XXV.
RETURN OF ALL THE SLEDGE TRAVELLERS.
“Now that the winter’s gone, the earth hath lostHer snow-white robes, and now no more the frostCandies the grass, or calls an icy creamUpon the silver lake or crystal stream,But the warm sun thaws the benumbed earth.”Carew.
“Now that the winter’s gone, the earth hath lost
Her snow-white robes, and now no more the frost
Candies the grass, or calls an icy cream
Upon the silver lake or crystal stream,
But the warm sun thaws the benumbed earth.”
Carew.
Thehearty welcome we received from one and all on board the “Alert,” together with the indescribable pleasure of a warm bath, followed by a champagne supper for those whom the doctor reported well enough to indulge in such a luxury, made us all supremely happy; the feeling being increased by the knowledge that our suffering companions were under the tender care of kind and skilful hands, and that all responsibility connected with their treatment had, so far as we were concerned, ceased. Our late hardships and the anxiety we had felt regarding the safe return of the party were almost forgotten, and were it not for the number of cots hanging up outside the ward-room, and the row of beds along the lower deck, each occupied by a sick man, we should almost have felt inclined to regard our late sledging expedition as a dream from which we had suddenly been awakened.
A more thorough break-up of a healthy and strong body of men it would be difficult to conceive. Not only had the men engaged in the extended party under my command been attacked with scurvy, but also those who had been absent from the ship only for short periods, and some, who may be said never to have left the ship at all, or if they did, only for two or three days! The disease then could not be attributed to any special circumstance connected with sledge travelling.
The seeds must have been sown during the time, nearly five months, that the sun was absent, and we were in darkness. Fresh animal and vegetable food is undoubtedly necessary for the preservation of health, and its absence is the originating cause of scurvy. To this originating cause all Arctic Expeditions have been equally exposed. The predisposing causes of scurvy, which actually lead to an outbreak when the originating cause exists, are the long absence of the sun, entailing darkness, damp, intense cold, and bad ventilation. To these predisposing causes our expedition was exposed for a very much longer period than any other which sent out extended travelling parties. For this reason other expeditions were exempt from scurvy while we were attacked. In short, the different result was caused by the difference in latitude. As our winter arrangements, and our scale of diet, both on board and while travelling, were identical with those of former expeditions, the cause of the outbreak could not have had anything to do either with diet or winter routine. Lime-juice, though most useful in warding off for a time and delaying an attack of scurvy, and as a cure, will not, with other circumstances unfavourable, prevent an outbreak.This is the opinion of all the best medical authorities; and our experience proved it to be an undoubted fact. Some of our men had scurvy who never left the ship and never ceased to take their daily rations of lime-juice, and others were attacked who went away travelling at a time when daily rations of lime-juice formed a part of the sledge dietary.1
In future, when an expedition winters in so high a latitude as 82° N., the prevention of an outbreak of scurvy must be secured by improved measures for mitigating the predisposing causes.
Owing to the condition of the crew of the “Alert,” Captain Nares publicly announced, on the 16th of June, that on the return of the sledge parties, he would endeavour to rejoin the “Discovery,” and would then send that vessel to England with all the invalids, and those unfit to remain out a second winter. The “Alert” would pass her second winter at Port Foulke, whence, in the ensuing spring, parties would be despatched for the purpose of exploring Hayes Sound, and the adjacent land. This work completed, that vessel also would return to England. The reason that Port Foulke was selected as our future winter quarters was the amount of animal life, principally reindeer, reported to abound in that neighbourhood, and we also anticipated little or no difficulty in breaking out in the following summer.
This resolution was undoubtedly a wise one, for it was certain that in the then state of the ship’s company of the “Alert,” many lives would be sacrificed if all the men were required to spend another winterin the Arctic Regions. The idea of soon reaching England acted as a cure upon those who were in the worst stage of scurvy, and conduced more to their recovery than all the medicines and careful nursing that they received from our painstaking and attentive doctor.
In the mean time great anxiety began to be felt regarding the safety of the western sledge party under Aldrich. From the wholesale manner in which the northern division had been afflicted, it was feared that they also would not pass scathless.
Still we hoped they would not suffer to the same extent. Their route was along the coast line, and it was expected that they would have been able to supply themselves occasionally with fresh provisions, such as hares, geese, and perhaps musk-oxen.
On the 18th of June, four days after the return of my party, May, with three men and the dog-sledge, dragged by our remaining six dogs, left the ship in order to obtain intelligence of Aldrich’s party, and if necessary to take him relief and assistance. The succeeding days were anxious ones to all on board, and many were the trips taken to the summit of Look-out-hill, in the hope of seeing the returning sledgers. We could not disguise from ourselves the fact that unless they returned quickly they would be placed in a very critical position. In a few days they must be without provisions. This we knew. The temperature, too, had reached freezing point, and frequently stood two or three degrees above it, causing the surface snow to thaw, and therefore making the task of dragging a sledge one of severe and unpleasant toil.
On the 21st the sun reached its highest northerndeclination, and every day would bring us nearer to another winter; therefore we knew that to effect our deliverance from the ice this year, it was necessary to get our sledging parties on board as soon as possible, in order to prepare the ship for sea, and to commence the operations requisite for cutting her out of winter quarters.
The snow on the hills to the northward of us was rapidly disappearing; but this might only be due to their southern aspect, for in our immediate vicinity the snow appeared as deep as ever. Towards the latter end of May the hills around the ship were perfectly bare; but the heavy fall of snow, experienced by us during our return journey, had again covered them as they were during the winter.
Water began to form in little pools on the floes near the ship, and every sign betokened the approaching disruption of the pack. On the 23rd, a few king ducks, some Arctic terns, and skuas were seen hovering about the land, and one or two specimens of the latter were shot—their skins swelling our natural history collection, their bodies being reserved for the sick.
On Sunday, June 25th, immediately after Divine Service, on ascending Look-out-hill, to our very great delight we observed the wanderers struggling through the hummocks some six or seven miles off. Hurrying down to communicate the good news, a relief party was speedily formed, and by midnight we had the very great satisfaction of receiving them all on board. It was the old story repeated. All were suffering from scurvy, and only Aldrich and two men were able to walk alongside the ship, one of the latter being so bad that he was undermedical treatment for many weeks after his return on board.
Their absence from the ship extended over a period of eighty-four days, during which they did very good service, having explored no less than two hundred and twenty miles of new coast line. May found them near Cape Joseph Henry, not far from the spot where he had before brought succour to my party. They were then struggling bravely on, but were in a very crippled condition. It is most fortunate he succeeded in reaching them when he did. His cheery spirit and strong help did much to assist them, and enabled Aldrich to bring his little party alongside their Arctic home in undiminished numbers. It was a great relief to all on board to know that every one had returned, that no stragglers were absent. So great was the anxiety felt until all the sledging parties had arrived, that the lot of those on board was hardly more enviable than that of the travellers!
Our good ship was now converted into a regular hospital, and might almost be said to be in charge of the medical officers; for those who were not actually under treatment had to be placed at the disposal of the doctor, so as to act as nurses, cooks, or attendants of some kind. Perfect rest and careful nursing were the most essential requisites for a complete restoration to health. Spenser must have had the recovery of similar wayworn and stricken travellers in his mind when he wrote—
“Now when their wearie limbes with kindly resteAnd bodies were refresht with dew repast.”
“Now when their wearie limbes with kindly reste
And bodies were refresht with dew repast.”
The medical staff were unremitting in their ceaseless attention to their patients, and it was to theiruntiring watchfulness that we owed the complete recovery of our sick.
Much had to be done to get the ship ready for sea; but, for some time, only a few officers andthreemen could be employed in any work connected with these preparations, the remainder being engaged entirely with their duties to the sick. The principal work that had to be done, before the ice broke up round the ship, was to get on board and stow away all our powder, besides the provisions and stores that had been landed before the winter. The housing had long been taken down, and the upper deck had been partially cleared of snow, so that daylight was once more admitted through the skylights and illuminators. It is a curious fact connected with those who were for a long period absent from their ship, that the hair on their faces became perfectly bleached, until in fact it was nearly white. The loss of colour was gradual, and, although noticed, was never alluded to, each one imagining that his companion’s hair was turning grey from the effects of hardship and anxiety! It was only after our return to the ship that those possessing beards and moustaches discovered the change that had occurred. The colour returned in the same gradual manner that it had disappeared. We all suffered a loss of hair from the head; but this may easily be attributed to our sealskin caps, and other head-dresses, which were constantly worn.
After the long use of moccasins, it took us some time to get accustomed to leather boots, which we were obliged to wear on account of the sludgy state of the surface of the floes and the land. With a temperature some degrees below freezing point, nothingis more comfortable or better suited for travelling over the pack than a good pair of moccasins.
The return of the sledge travellers was celebrated, on the 29th of June, by the best dinner we could afford to put on the table. As our printing-press had long been dismantled, a writtenmenuwas given to myself and Aldrich as the leaders of the two extended sledge parties. A beautiful sketch of the highest position reached was drawn by Moss, the following being as near as possible a fac-simile:—
MENU.Potage olla Podrida.Petits Pâtes d’Homards. Fricassée de Pégouse et Sardines.Rognons aux Champignons saucés dans Attrapez-en-haut.Rissoles à la Tomato.Mâchoire de Bœuf. Jambon au Champagne.Petits Pois. Carottes. Ognons. Pommes de Terre.Tourte de Pêches.Compote de Blancmange et Rhubarbe Fou. Pouding en Marmelade.Pains rôtis aux Anchois.Fromage. Liqueurs. Dessert.Café noir.H.M.S. “Alert.”29th June, 1876.
MENU.
Potage olla Podrida.
Petits Pâtes d’Homards. Fricassée de Pégouse et Sardines.
Rognons aux Champignons saucés dans Attrapez-en-haut.
Rissoles à la Tomato.
Mâchoire de Bœuf. Jambon au Champagne.
Petits Pois. Carottes. Ognons. Pommes de Terre.
Tourte de Pêches.
Compote de Blancmange et Rhubarbe Fou. Pouding en Marmelade.
Pains rôtis aux Anchois.
Fromage. Liqueurs. Dessert.
Café noir.
H.M.S. “Alert.”29th June, 1876.
On the reverse side of the bill of fare were the following verses composed by Pullen for the occasion. It is needless to add that they were not only appreciated, but that they found a response in every breast:—
Welcome home to the wished-for rest,Travellers to north and travellers to west!Welcome back from bristling floe,Frowning cliff and quaking snow!Nobly, bravely the work was done;Inch by inch was the hard fight won.Now the toilsome march is o’er,Welcome home to our tranquil shore.Rough and rude is the feast we bring;Rougher and ruder the verse we sing.Not rough, not rude are the thoughts that riseTo choke our voices and dim our eyes,As we call to mind that joyous sightOn an April morning cold and bright,When a chosen band stepped boldly forthTo the unknown west and the unknown north;And we from our haven could only pray—“God send them strength for each weary day!”He heard our prayer; He made them strong;He bore their stalwart limbs along;Planted their sturdy footsteps sure;Gave them courage to endure.Taught them, too, for His dear sake,Many a sacrifice to make:By many a tender woman’s deedTo aid a brother in his need.And safe for ever shall He keepIn His gentle hand the two who sleep.His love shall quench the tears that flowFor the buried dear ones under the snow.And we who live and are strong to do,His love shall keep us safely too:Shall tend our sick, and soothe their pain,And bring them back to health again.And the breath of His wind shall set us free,Through the opening ice to the soft green sea.
Welcome home to the wished-for rest,
Travellers to north and travellers to west!
Welcome back from bristling floe,
Frowning cliff and quaking snow!
Nobly, bravely the work was done;
Inch by inch was the hard fight won.
Now the toilsome march is o’er,
Welcome home to our tranquil shore.
Rough and rude is the feast we bring;
Rougher and ruder the verse we sing.
Not rough, not rude are the thoughts that rise
To choke our voices and dim our eyes,
As we call to mind that joyous sight
On an April morning cold and bright,
When a chosen band stepped boldly forth
To the unknown west and the unknown north;
And we from our haven could only pray—
“God send them strength for each weary day!”
He heard our prayer; He made them strong;
He bore their stalwart limbs along;
Planted their sturdy footsteps sure;
Gave them courage to endure.
Taught them, too, for His dear sake,
Many a sacrifice to make:
By many a tender woman’s deed
To aid a brother in his need.
And safe for ever shall He keep
In His gentle hand the two who sleep.
His love shall quench the tears that flow
For the buried dear ones under the snow.
And we who live and are strong to do,
His love shall keep us safely too:
Shall tend our sick, and soothe their pain,
And bring them back to health again.
And the breath of His wind shall set us free,
Through the opening ice to the soft green sea.
Captain Nares had hinted that, in the present condition of the men, and supposing also that those of the “Discovery” were in the same state, he would not be justified in allowing even one ship to remain another year exposed to the rigours of an Arctic winter and to the same causes that had led to the recent outbreak of scurvy. We were prepared for this announcement; for we well knew that to remain out a second winter, although there were many of us ready and eager to do so, would simply be to sacrifice many valuable lives for no object; for we could not possibly expect to reach a higher northern latitude, or even to extend our explorations much farther to the westward, although the whole force of the expedition should be confined to the one direction. In deciding to return to England, Captain Nares showed great moral courage, and exercised a sound and wise judgment, in the opinion of all his officers.
On the Sunday following the return of Aldrich’s party, a special thanksgiving was offered up to Almighty God for our safe return, and prayers were also said for the speedy recovery of our sick comrades.
On the 1st of July, on the usual monthly medical examination being held, only ten men out of our fine ship’s company were reported in a fit state for work, and some of these were convalescents! The invalids, however, thanks to the doctor’s assiduous care, were improving slowly but surely.
The thaw had by this time commenced. The snow was soft and wet in the valleys, small rivulets were already meandering through the ravines and gorges, whilst the summits of the mountains were covered with brown patches that the wind and thaw combined had left bare. Little tufts of the beautiful purplesaxifrage dotted the sides of the hills over which we walked, bringing forcibly to our minds the wild flowers of our own dear country, and creating a longing desire to behold them once more. Footprints of animals, notably musk-oxen, were occasionally observed; but although these traces appeared fresh, they were evidently those of the preceding autumn, which, having been covered with snow and frozen hard during the winter, had thus been perfectly preserved.
On the 5th of July, however, we were so fortunate as to shoot three musk-oxen within three or four miles of the ship, and on the following morning another fell a victim to the prowess of our sportsmen. This was indeed a God-send, for without fresh meat the recovery of our sick would be long and tedious. The actual amount of food obtained from these animals was at the average rate of 120 lbs. from each. The dexterity with which the beasts were operated upon after death would have done credit to the most accomplished butchers. Our first dish of liver and bacon at breakfast was, it is needless to say, done full justice to—the only fault being an insufficiency in amount.
Fresh provisions were indispensable for the restoration of the invalids to health. Shooting parties were, therefore, organized amongst the officers, and the whole country for a radius of many miles was well scoured in search of game. These shooting parties were very enjoyable, especially to those who, like myself, had been engaged on one of the prolonged sledging expeditions—the contrast being very great. No anxiety, little or no responsibility, careless of time, and oblivious of everything save our ownpleasure and convenience. Sleeping when we felt tired, and having our meals when we felt hungry, the night the same as the day, the sun at midnight being as bright as at noon, free from all cares, intent only on sport, the time passed in a serene and delightful manner, and we were truly sorry when the time came to relinquish our gipsying life for a more civilized one on board.
On one of these shooting tours I was away from the ship, accompanied by a few choice spirits, for fourteen days. During that time we succeeded in obtaining a couple of musk-oxen, and several brent geese, which were a welcome addition to the fresh meat already obtained for the sick on board the ship. What delightful little meals we used to cook for ourselves, each one taking his turn, and vying with the others in his endeavours to make his dishes excel those of his predecessor!
On one occasion we had for breakfast the livers and gizzards of thirteen geese served up with a little bacon, these being the perquisites of the sportsmen. In the enjoyment of such luxuries it is not surprising that a return to the ship, and our everlasting Australian and New Zealand beef and mutton, was not hailed with delight.
All this time the thaw had been rapidly progressing, the tops of the hills were bare, and the ravines were rendered almost impassable from the mountain torrents that dashed down towards the sea, gaining strength and volume as they neared their outlets. These had to be crossed by the shooting parties, the water reaching up to our waists, and flowing with such force as nearly to carry us off our legs. As for change of clothing, we had none; but on reachingour tents we would get into our sleeping-bags and leave our wet clothes outside to dry; the temperature at this time being about 40°. A warm supper, with a pannikin of hot tea, followed by a glass of grog, soon made us forget the discomforts of the past in the enjoyment of the present.
Some of the scenery, about five or ten miles in the interior, was extremely picturesque. The spot that we selected for our camp was on the borders of a lake that formed one of a chain extending to the south westward. Some of the hills surrounding these lakes were beautifully carpeted with the pretty little purple saxifrage, adraba, apotentilla, and other wild flowers, while the valleys were covered with patches of luxuriant vegetation, consisting of grasses and delightfully soft moss. Altogether the aspect of the surrounding country afforded a striking contrast to what it was but a few short weeks back, when still wrapped in its wintry garb.
On our return to the ship on the 24th of July, wewere glad to hear that our invalids were progressing favourably, and the convalescents regaining strength. It was also a source of great gratification to us to find a broad stream of water forming outside our protecting floe-bergs, and extending from Point Sheridan to as far south as we could see. This was a very agreeable and unexpected surprise. Active preparations were at once made to release the ship from her icy prison. All stores and provisions were re-embarked, instruments were brought on board and carefully packed up and put away, boats were hoisted up, the screw lowered, and the engines reported in good working order. Strict orders were issued that no one was to be absent from the ship, on any pretence, for a longer period than four hours without express permission. Any day might see our release! Anxious eyes were constantly directed towards the pack, which was now acted upon both by wind and tide, drifting north and south as it felt their influences.
A large cairn, fully ten feet high, was erected on the summit of “Cairn Hill,” in which was deposited a record stating briefly what had been accomplished by the expedition, and giving a list of the officers and men of both ships. To this document each of the former attached his signature. Will this ever be disturbed by our fellow-men?
Strenuous exertions were made by means of powder to blow up the ice between the ship and the channel of water that almost tantalized us by its existence, and so clear a passage by which we could effect our escape. Countless torpedoes, containing from 1 to 50 lbs. of powder, were used to accomplish this object, and many hours of hard labour were expended in the same endeavour. At length, on the morning of the31st of July, our exertions were crowned with success, and great was the excitement on board when hurried orders were issued to raise steam with all despatch and to prepare for sea! A fresh south-westerly wind had blown the pack off the shore, leaving a clear channel of water extending as far as could be seen to the southward.
By 7A.M.the ship was free and afloat, and at eight o’clock the colours were hoisted, and we succeeded, without much difficulty, in steaming clear of the prison that had for eleven long months so securely held us in its icy fetters.
Who can describe the feelings experienced by all on board the “Alert” on again hearing the long-silent throbbing of the engines, and knowing that the ship was once more in motion?
Yet a slight pang of regret was felt at leaving the barren, sterile coast, off which we had passed so many happy days, and we could not but feel grateful to the kind floe-bergs which had, during that time, protected us so well from “ye merciless yce.”
1As soon as it was possible to use the lime-juice in the form in which it was supplied to the expedition (that is, in jars or bottles) all sledge parties were invariably supplied with it as a daily ration.
1As soon as it was possible to use the lime-juice in the form in which it was supplied to the expedition (that is, in jars or bottles) all sledge parties were invariably supplied with it as a daily ration.
CHAPTER XXVI.
THE RETURN VOYAGE IN THE ICE.
“Let our trusty bandHaste to Fatherland,Let our vessel bravePlough the angry wave.”Thorhall’sSaga.
“Let our trusty band
Haste to Fatherland,
Let our vessel brave
Plough the angry wave.”
Thorhall’sSaga.
Cape Joseph Henrywas lost to sight as the “Alert” rounded Cape Rawson; but very heavy ice off Cape Union for a time completely obstructed our progress.
Excessive caution was necessary in handling the ship amongst these ponderous floes. Patience combined with perseverance are essential virtues inseparable to successful ice navigation, and they were constantly called into requisition in order to ensure a safe deliverance from the dangers which surrounded us.
A vigilant look-out had to be kept on the pack, and the ship was moved from time to time in order to avoid a “nip.” Frequently we would observe a heavy floe coming into contact with the large grounded masses of ice that lined the coast, forcing them over, or crumbling them into shapeless fragments, thus clearly illustrating our own fate should we be so unfortunate as to be caught between the two.
The orders “up” and “down screw and rudder”were given and executed several times during each day. As on our outward journey, preparations were now made for abandoning the ship at a moment’s notice. Tents, clothing, cooking utensils, and all necessaries for a life on shore were spread out on the upper deck in readiness to be thrown on the ice in the event of such a catastrophe.
The cool way in which we all spoke of the probable loss of our home, and the prospect of being cast adrift at a moment’s notice, was very remarkable. Perhaps the knowledge that our consort, the “Discovery,” was within some forty miles of us, and therefore within easy travelling distance, might account for the light manner in which such a calamity was regarded; but it was impossible to disguise the fact that the loss of our good ship would be a very serious, not to say uncomfortable, event.
Steam had to be kept ready at a few minutes’ notice, so as to take advantage of every little opening that might occur in the ice, even though we should only succeed in advancing a few hundred yards. On one occasion the ship was purposely forced into the pack, with which it drifted to the southward; but on the turn of the tide, when the ice began to drift in the opposite direction, it was no easy matter to free ourselves from the bondage to which we had voluntarily subjected ourselves. If it can be avoided, it is best not to allow a ship to get beset, even when the drift of the pack is favourable.
As we proceeded south, although our progress was slow, the change in the appearance and massiveness of the ice was very palpable. Occasionally we would meet small specimens of our palæocrystic friends, over which we had travelled during the preceding spring,but, as a rule, the ice was of a much lighter description. Still the floes were far heavier than those met with in Baffin Bay, and by no means to be despised.
During the time the ship was detained, waiting for the ice to open to allow her to proceed, our sportsmen were not idle, landing at all hours of the day and night in order to procure fresh food for the sick. So successful were they in their forays that the sick were supplied with a fresh meat meal daily,—geese, ducks, and hares forming the principal part of their “bags.” The slaughter amongst the former was tremendous—entire flocks numbering from fifty to seventy birds falling victims to the prowess of not more than two guns, and within the short space perhaps of half an hour! The unfortunate birds being in the act of moulting were, of course, unable to escape the unerring aim of our marksmen.
In addition to crops of mustard and cress that we succeeded in raising on board, we were able to obtain small quantities of sorrel, which the convalescents were sent on shore to gather from the valleys and sides of the hills, often returning with sufficient to enable a limited allowance to be served out periodically. Sometimes the sick men were sent on shore themselves tobrowseon this excellent antiscorbutic.
On the morning of the 5th of August, being within twenty miles of the “Discovery,” Egerton, accompanied by one of the men, was sent to give them information of our position. Our own ship was then, and had been for the past forty-eight hours, effectually jammed by the ice and unable to move. In the mean time we on board the “Alert” were endeavouring to get our vessel clean, and into something like order and ship-shape. On the following morning wesustained a slight “nip,” caused by the ice setting rapidly in towards us. Our rudder head was badly wrenched before the rudder could be unshipped, and the iron tiller was bent and crippled. We only succeeded in easing the pressure by exploding some charges under the ice. In the forenoon Rawson, with two of the men belonging to the “Discovery,” walked on board. We were, of course, delighted to see them and to hear news of our consort.
From them we learnt that poor Egerton had lost his way, and did not arrive on board their ship until after he had been wandering about for eighteen hours! The news from the “Discovery” was what we feared. Notwithstanding the large amount of musk-ox flesh procured by them during the autumn and following summer, scurvy had attacked her crew in almost the same virulent manner as it had ours. The return journeys of some of their sledge parties were simply a repetition of our own. Beaumont’s division—the one exploring the north-western coast of Greenland—had suffered very severely, and we heard with extreme regret that two of his small party had succumbed to this terrible disease.
The rest of his men, with himself and Dr. Coppinger, had not yet returned to the “Discovery,” having remained in Polaris Bay to recruit their healths. This was, indeed, a bitter ending to our spring campaign, on which we had all set out so full of enthusiasm and hope. It had the effect, however, of confirming Captain Nares in his resolution to proceed to England. With such broken-down crews it would have been folly indeed to have risked the rigours of a second Arctic winter; and there was really nothing left for us to do, Beaumont havingdone his work so well that it would have been impossible for us to have extended any exploration in that quarter. The “Discovery” had been afloat for some time, and was in perfect readiness to proceed to sea on the arrival of Beaumont and his party. Their absence caused us great anxiety, as the pack, being in motion between ourselves and Polaris Bay, and consequently where they would have to cross, made us fully alive to the risks and dangers they would encounter whilst crossing it. Still we hoped to hear of their safe arrival as soon as we should drop anchor alongside our consort in Discovery Bay.
The most important news was that a large seam of lignite of the Miocene period had been discovered within about three miles of their winter quarters. They had not been able to utilize this coal, but several large specimens had been carried to the ship—the result of experiments made being that it was reported, for steaming purposes, equal to the best Welsh coal.
Whilst imprisoned by the ice and waiting to escape, our naturalist made an interesting discovery within two hundred yards of the ship. On the beach, about twenty feet above high-water mark, he observed some wood which, on examination, proved to be portions of sledge runners and cross-pieces; also a snow scraper, made from the tusk of a narwhal or walrus, and a large lamp, apparently a piece of schistose rock hollowed out.1These relics are the most northern traces of Eskimos yet found. Their position would lead one to suppose that the wanderers had arrived so far north along the shores on the western side of thechannel, and from thence crossed over to the opposite Greenland coast; the cliffs to the northward being very steep, and although not actually impassable, great difficulty would be experienced in travelling along their base. This, and the absence of animal life, would readily account for their desire to leave such an inhospitable and sterile land.
On the 7th and 8th of August the ship was subjected to some very severe squeezes. On the latter day a large floe-berg pressed violently against the vessel and forced her on shore, lifting the stern bodily out of the water to a height of about five feet. The noise of the cracking of the beams and the groaning of the timbers was a sound that once heard will never be forgotten. To those below, the crumbling of the pitch in the deck seams sounded like a shower of hail on the upper deck. Fortunately for us the floe-berg was heavy and of deep flotation, and therefore grounded before it had time to cause the destruction of the ship. It was a grand sight to witness some of the neighbouring floe-bergs—great masses of ice from sixty to seventy feet in thickness—turned completely over and swept away by the pack in its irresistible career.
We had no time, however, to indulge ourselves in watching spectacles of such magnificence. Our position was by no means pleasant: any pressure upon the ship, caused by spring tides or otherwise, must inevitably crush her; and the prospect of another winter in the ice began to dawn upon us. There was apparently no escape, as, from our experience of the preceding year, we had cause to believe that, when once the floe-bergs grounded along the coast, they remained immoveable during the whole winter, andhere were we forced on shore by a floe-berg which had grounded immediately outside us. Our only chance was to reduce the huge mass of ice by which we were imprisoned, so as to lighten it sufficiently to float and drift away at high water. It was a bold idea; but it was no sooner resolved on than every available working man in the ship, irrespective of rank or station, was busily employed with axe, pick, or chisel in demolishing the obstruction. On the third day, so energetically was the work carried out, that the judicious explosion of a heavy charge of powder immediately under the berg had the effect of floating it away at high water, and the ship was released.
The pack being loose, we succeeded in making good progress, and on the following evening had the very great satisfaction of anchoring alongside the “Discovery,” after having been separated from her for nearly twelve months. An interchange of visitors immediately took place. Local news, for want of more important intelligence, was fully and freely discussed, and the routine of the winter and the doings of the sledge parties formed topics of interesting conversation. The prolonged absence of Beaumont and his party acted as a damper upon our spirits, for we could not hide from ourselves the fact that their journey across the strait must be a hazardous one. So uneasy did Captain Nares feel regarding their safety that he determined upon going in search of them, even over to Polaris Bay. Accordingly, on Sunday morning, the 13th of August, having transferred all our sick and helpless hands to the “Discovery,” and having our own ship’s company supplemented by six men from our consort, we again made a start, but were stopped by heavy ice at theentrance of the harbour, through which it was quite impossible to penetrate. On the following day, to our great delight, we observed a tent pitched on the ice about three miles to the southward of the ship. A relief party was quickly formed, and in a few hours we had the extreme pleasure and satisfaction of welcoming Beaumont and his party on board, none the worse for what they had recently gone through, and almost indignant at all offers of assistance that were made to them. On account of the drifting of the pack over which they had been travelling, their work, during the last three or four days, had been excessively severe. On occasions they were compelled to continue the march for thirty-two and twenty-two consecutive hours without resting.
As the ice still remained packed and impenetrable, we were unable to advance, although more than one unsuccessful attempt was made to push on. On several occasions the dredge was hauled and with good and interesting results. The coal seam was also visited by different parties of officers. It exists in a visible seam on the northern side of a ravine, and is about three hundred yards long and twenty-five high. We were unable to ascertain its depth below the surface of the ground, or its thickness.
We were also very fortunate in finding a large number of vegetable fossils in the surrounding limestone, some of the leaf impressions being very clear and perfect. At the head of the ravine is a magnificent cave, formed by the two sides of the gorge and covered with a roof of frozen snow. This roof is apparently permanent, as when we visited the cave it was precisely in the same condition as when it was first discovered twelve months before! Thecave is very large, capable of accommodating easily sixty or seventy men.
During these excursions several butterflies were caught and brought on board as specimens, as also some flies, gnats, and otherdiptera. Many hares were also shot, to the great delight of our doctor, who had been working like a horse in order to bring his patients round.
The scenery in the channel between Bellot Island and the mainland, through which we passed in one of our vain attempts to get south, was very striking: bold cliffs, and hills rising to a height of two thousand feet on either side, intersected by deep ravines and gorges having almost precipitous sides and terminating in bays and little harbours.
On Sunday the 20th, by dint of boring and charging, at the expense, however, of our rudder head, we succeeded in forcing a passage through the ice in Lady Franklin Bay, and into a broad stream of water extending along the coast to the southward, which we fondly hoped would eventually lead us into open water.2But navigation in ice-bound seas is indeed uncertain. For on the following day we were compelled to seek refuge inside a land-locked and apparently well-protected and secure harbour. How deceitful was its appearance! Hardly an hour had elapsed after entering this sheltered retreat, before the “Alert” was severely nipped by a heavy floe and forced on shore.
For many hours the ship remained in a very critical position, as the tide receding left her completely high and dry, and listed over at an angle of 25°.
So steep was the bank on which we had been forced, that at low water we were able to walk, “dry shod,” from the stem to the main chains, whilst aft the water was over our mizzen chains, and within a short distance of the taff-rail. A good sensational photograph and some sketches were made of the ship in this unpleasant position. Strenuous efforts were, of course, at once made to lighten and float the vessel. The fore part was entirely cleared, and the chain cables brought aft. A bower anchor was laid out astern in order to haul the ship off to.
The manner in which this latter work was performed was both novel and ingenious. A small but heavy piece of ice was secured and brought alongside the ship. On this was placed the anchor, as on a raft. It was then towed by boats to the position decided upon, when the raft was destroyed by exploding a charge of gunpowder immediately underneath it, the anchor, of course, sinking to the bottom.
With such good will did all work, that we had the joy and satisfaction of seeing our good ship afloat, and ready to proceed, in about fifteen hours from the time of the accident taking place. The bay, which was the scene of our mishap, was called Rawlings Bay, after one of our men, who was my sledge captain in all my expeditions. A musk-ox skull and the horn of a reindeer were picked up by Feilden close to where the ship was aground, proving that the neighbourhood is occasionally visited by these animals.
From this time, until the 9th of September, we were engaged in a never-ceasing struggle with the ice, frequently detained for many hours, and rarely advancing more than a few hundred yards during the day. The fast-forming ice reminded us unpleasantlyof the near approach of winter, whilst the land had again assumed its wintry covering of snow. On the 22nd of August candles had to be used below at midnight for reading or writing. The young ice was found very tenacious, glueing and cementing the broken fragments of floes together. This caused such an impediment to our advance, although the pack was what is termed loose, that we were on several occasions compelled to relinquish all attempts at penetrating farther, and to secure the ships until a more favourable opportunity should occur. Our stock of coal, too, was getting alarmingly small, and had to be very carefully economized. Without the means of steaming, our chance of escape would, indeed, have been small.
On the 24th we rounded Cape Fraser;3on the 27th,4so slow was our progress, that we only just succeeded in getting into Dobbin Bay, where we were detained until the 3rd of September. The temperature had fallen to 19°. Last year we were frozen up on the 3rd of September, and here were we on the same date with as low a temperature and many miles to accomplish before we could actually be clear of the ice!
Snow also began to fall heavily, and everything appeared gloomy and inhospitable. As there was now a prospect of our being forcibly detained for another winter in the ice, and as some of our provisions were getting low, on passing the large depôt established in Dobbin Bay on our way up theprevious year, we landed and brought off all the tea, sugar, and chocolate, and such other articles as we were likely to require.
Whilst this work was in progress, a large ground seal (Phoca barbata) was shot by Hans, of the “Discovery,” on which was found a partially healed wound; on further examination, an iron-pointed harpoon with an ivory socket, evidently of Eskimo construction, was discovered imbedded in its blubber. It would have been very interesting if we could have traced, by the manufacture of the instrument, the tribe to which it had belonged and the locality where the wound was inflicted.
One morning, when some little distance from the land, a small fox, of a mottled colour, wandered off to the ship, being attracted towards us either by hunger or curiosity. The officer of the watch, always on thealert, soon spied the little animal cruising about amongst the hummocks and shot it. The skin was preserved with the collection of natural history specimens, whilst the body was eaten by us at dinner and found to be delicious. Passing Cape Hawks, and Allman Bay, an inlet which was named after the distinguished President of the Linnæan Society, we continued to push the ships in the direction of open water to the south, which we at length reached.
It was with no small amount of thankfulness that on the 9th of September we emerged from the cold, grim clutches that seemed only too ready to detain us for another winter in the realms of the Ice King, and that we felt our ship rise and fall once more on the bosom of an undoubted ocean swell. It was, indeed, a joyous sensation to look around and see nothing but blue water, and, with the exception of afew straggling bergs, not a single speck of ice in sight. This broad sheet of water had for some time been known to us, having been observed from the summits of various hills that we had ascended, and all our energies of late had been concentrated into reaching it. We had a hard fight, but perseverance and patience ultimately proved triumphant.
On first reaching it, we found it to be coated with a thin layer of young ice, which offered a great deal of hindrance, although it had not the effect of checking us altogether. Our course through this young ice could be distinctly traced for a long distanceastern, by a broad lane of water resembling the Suez Canal. At 6P.M.we passed Cape Sabine, and distinguished our cairn on the top of Brevoort Island apparently untouched. Ahead was Cape Isabella, towards which we steered.