H.M.S. “ALERT.”THURSDAY POPULAR ENTERTAINMENTS.On Thursday, the 11th of November, 1875, will commence a series of popular entertainments, that will consist of lectures, readings, recitations, and music, both vocal and instrumental, etc. No trouble or expense have been spared in obtaining the services of a great number of the most talented men of the day. The entertainment will be given in the airy and commodious hall situated in Funnel Row.Programme:Astronomical Lecture(with discussion)Capt.Nares.Song“I knew that I was dreaming”Mr.Good.Song“Watercresses”Mr.Shirley.Reading“The Jumping Frog”Dr.Moss.Song“An Englishman am I”Mr.Cane.Song“Broken down”Mr.Bryant.Glee“The Wreath”Messrs.Aldrich,Pullen, andRawson.Song“The White Squall”Mr.Maskell.God save the Queen.No encores. Doors open at 7.30. Sledges may be ordered at 9 o’clockMessrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.
H.M.S. “ALERT.”
THURSDAY POPULAR ENTERTAINMENTS.
On Thursday, the 11th of November, 1875, will commence a series of popular entertainments, that will consist of lectures, readings, recitations, and music, both vocal and instrumental, etc. No trouble or expense have been spared in obtaining the services of a great number of the most talented men of the day. The entertainment will be given in the airy and commodious hall situated in Funnel Row.
Programme:
God save the Queen.
No encores. Doors open at 7.30. Sledges may be ordered at 9 o’clock
Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.
This was the first notification issued regarding our weekly entertainments, and, coming out a day or two before the performance, it naturally caused considerable excitement and flutter amongst the Arctic playgoing world!
Except on the evenings exclusively devoted to the legitimate drama, these entertainments were always preceded by a lecture delivered by one of the officers, on some interesting and at the same time instructive subject, adapted to the knowledge and intelligence of the audience. A list of the lectures so delivered cannot fail to be of interest.
1. On astronomyCapt. Nares.2. A few words on magnetismLieut. Giffard.3. On geologyCapt. Feilden.4. A few words on meteorologyLieut. Aldrich.5. A few words on steamMr. Wootton.6. Mock moons under the microscopeDr. Moss.7. On lightLieut. Parr.8. An historical lectureMr. White.9. A few words on astronomyCom. Markham.10. Our food in the arctic regionsDr. Colan.11. A few words on arctic plantsRev. H. W. Pullen.12. On hydrostaticsLieut. May.13. Sledging experiencesCapt. Nares.
Nearly all the officers took part in these lectures, and I have not the slightest doubt that all would have done so had there been any more Thursdays to spare. They were eagerly listened to by the ship’scompany, and afforded quite as much pleasure as the readings and songs that followed, in the performance of which they all, with only one or two exceptions, took part.
The first real dramatic entertainment came off on the following Thursday. Our plan was for the men to act one piece and the officers another, and this was found to work very well. But the rehearsals were a difficulty, and we were frequently compelled to shut ourselves up in our own cabins in order to secure the necessary quiet and privacy to enable us to become perfect in our different parts.
The costumes were, of course, a subject of muchdiscussion and deep interest. The making up of dresses, and the manufacture of wigs from musk-ox skins and oakum, sorely taxed our ingenuity and employed minds and fingers that had hitherto been strangers to such occupations. Many were the needles broken, and many were the fingers pricked, before our ideal costumes were realized. Eiderdown quilts had to be converted into the robes of a lovely oriental princess; old uniform coats were beautified with spangles and tinsel, and appeared as the fashionable habiliments of a dandy of the seventeenth century; whilst a wicked magician, of the Hebrew persuasion, appeared in a coat of unmistakeable clerical cut.
Egerton was an indefatigable stage manager, and the scenic arrangements under the direction of Moss, who was also the artist, could not be excelled. Aldrich at the piano (as our orchestra) was a host in himself, adding materially to the success of the entertainments. In fact, officers and men vied with each other in their endeavours to promote amusement and hilarity, and if their histrionic abilities were not of the highest order, the zeal and energy of the actors fully compensated for this deficiency.
We enjoyed a rare freedom from harsh ill-natured critics. These pests do not venture across the Arctic Circle. All who visited the Royal Arctic Theatre (re-opened after a lapse of twenty-one years) came with a firm resolve to please or be pleased. Acting upon this determination, our entertainments were bound to be successful. The following prologue, composed for the occasion by Pullen, was spoken at the opening of our theatre, on Thursday, the 18th of November, 1875.
“Kind friends, with kindly greetings met to-day,We bid you welcome to our opening play:You, whose indulgent smile forbids the fearOf scornful wit or captious critic here.To-day we welcome you, and not to-night,For all is noon with us—all summer bright;And though the southern sun has ceased to pourHis glittering rays upon our ice-bound shore—Has ceased awhile to touch with drops of goldThe crystal corners of our hummocks bold;We bear a warm soft light that never fades—A lustrous light amid these Greenland shades;All trustful of each other’s love, we learnWith steady flame our lamp of Hope to burn;And suns may set, and twilights disappear—They shall not rob us of our Christmas cheer;Nor blinding drift, nor frozen wave, shall chillOur laughter glad—for laugh, brave boys, we will;Kindling yet once again the genial glowOf happy English homes on Arctic floe.“Yet once again; for none would here forgetWe are but sons of fathers living yet;In work and play alike, we but renewThe deeds of men who taught us what to do.And though, more favoured than the rest, we soarTo loftier flights than theirs who went before;Though ours the boast, by skilful guidance led,In virgin climes our shifting scene to spread;We love to read on history’s faithful page,Of ancient triumphs on our Northern stage,And boldly for our brave forerunners claimAn Arctic ‘cast’ already known to fame.“Now let the tell-tale curtain rise, and sayWhat we have done to while your hours away.Such as we have, we bring you of our best,And to your kind forbearance leave the rest.One only grief is ours, and you shall shareWith us the burden of that gentle care.One cherished form we miss—one touch alone—One glance of love—one tender, thrilling tone.Ah! in the sweet homes of our native isleThe dear ones move, and minister, and smile.We would not wish them here, but this we know,Their thoughts are with us every step we go:Their life sets northward o’er the cold, grey sea:They live in wondering what our life may be;And heart draws near to heart, and soul to soul,Till each has found its true magnetic pole.“God bless and keep them in His mighty hand—Our wives and sweethearts, and the dear old land!”
“Kind friends, with kindly greetings met to-day,
We bid you welcome to our opening play:
You, whose indulgent smile forbids the fear
Of scornful wit or captious critic here.
To-day we welcome you, and not to-night,
For all is noon with us—all summer bright;
And though the southern sun has ceased to pour
His glittering rays upon our ice-bound shore—
Has ceased awhile to touch with drops of gold
The crystal corners of our hummocks bold;
We bear a warm soft light that never fades—
A lustrous light amid these Greenland shades;
All trustful of each other’s love, we learn
With steady flame our lamp of Hope to burn;
And suns may set, and twilights disappear—
They shall not rob us of our Christmas cheer;
Nor blinding drift, nor frozen wave, shall chill
Our laughter glad—for laugh, brave boys, we will;
Kindling yet once again the genial glow
Of happy English homes on Arctic floe.
“Yet once again; for none would here forget
We are but sons of fathers living yet;
In work and play alike, we but renew
The deeds of men who taught us what to do.
And though, more favoured than the rest, we soar
To loftier flights than theirs who went before;
Though ours the boast, by skilful guidance led,
In virgin climes our shifting scene to spread;
We love to read on history’s faithful page,
Of ancient triumphs on our Northern stage,
And boldly for our brave forerunners claim
An Arctic ‘cast’ already known to fame.
“Now let the tell-tale curtain rise, and say
What we have done to while your hours away.
Such as we have, we bring you of our best,
And to your kind forbearance leave the rest.
One only grief is ours, and you shall share
With us the burden of that gentle care.
One cherished form we miss—one touch alone—
One glance of love—one tender, thrilling tone.
Ah! in the sweet homes of our native isle
The dear ones move, and minister, and smile.
We would not wish them here, but this we know,
Their thoughts are with us every step we go:
Their life sets northward o’er the cold, grey sea:
They live in wondering what our life may be;
And heart draws near to heart, and soul to soul,
Till each has found its true magnetic pole.
“God bless and keep them in His mighty hand—
Our wives and sweethearts, and the dear old land!”
The prologue was warmly applauded. At its conclusion the curtain rose, and the following programme, showing the plays that were acted and the cast of characters, was proceeded with.
THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATREWill be re-opened on Thursday next, the 18th instant, bythe powerful dramatic company ofHyperboreans!Under the distinguished patronage of Capt. Nares, the members of the Arctic Exploring Expedition, and all the nobility and gentry of the neighbourhood.The world-wide reputation of this company is quite unrivalled. The manager has spared neither trouble nor expense in forming this company, and has selected none but the very bestartistes—the ladies being from England—who, having numerous other engagements, can remain for a short time only.The scenic arrangements, under the control and manipulation of that celebrated artist, Professor Moss,mustbe acknowledged to be unparalleled in the experience of ages and of the highest order.The orchestra, under the management of Signore Aldrichi (lately from Milan) cannot fail to be appreciated by the audience.At 7.30 will commence the celebrated nautical farceTHE CHOPS OF THE CHANNEL.Characters:Leander HellespontMr. Stuckberry.Mr. Counter BalanceMr. Woolley.Gratings (Steward)Mr. Burroughs.Mrs. HellespontMdlle. Francombi.Mrs. VeneerMdme. Maskelli.Time The present day.Scene Saloon of a Boulogne steamer.Interval of ten minutes.During the interval the renowned vocalist, Mr. Stone, will singThe Irish Barber.After which will be performed the screaming tragico-comico burlesque entitledVILIKINS AND HIS DINAH.Characters:Master Grumbleton Gruffin, a rich (soap) merchant of London, the original parientCom. Markham.Baron Boski Bumble, ancestor of the celebrated beadle, the original lovier so gallant and gayMr. Egerton.William Wilkins, socially and convivially known as Vilikins, a young apprentice, in desperate love withMr. Rawson.Dinah Gruffin, the sole feminine offspring of the above-mentioned soap-merchant, in love with the aforesaid VilikinsMdlle. Blanc.Scene 1Lawn of Gruffin’s house.Scene 2Interior of Gruffin’s house.Scene 3Lawn of Gruffin’s house.God save the Queen.
THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE
Will be re-opened on Thursday next, the 18th instant, bythe powerful dramatic company of
Hyperboreans!
Under the distinguished patronage of Capt. Nares, the members of the Arctic Exploring Expedition, and all the nobility and gentry of the neighbourhood.
The world-wide reputation of this company is quite unrivalled. The manager has spared neither trouble nor expense in forming this company, and has selected none but the very bestartistes—the ladies being from England—who, having numerous other engagements, can remain for a short time only.
The scenic arrangements, under the control and manipulation of that celebrated artist, Professor Moss,mustbe acknowledged to be unparalleled in the experience of ages and of the highest order.
The orchestra, under the management of Signore Aldrichi (lately from Milan) cannot fail to be appreciated by the audience.
At 7.30 will commence the celebrated nautical farce
THE CHOPS OF THE CHANNEL.
Characters:
Time The present day.Scene Saloon of a Boulogne steamer.
Interval of ten minutes.
During the interval the renowned vocalist, Mr. Stone, will singThe Irish Barber.
After which will be performed the screaming tragico-comico burlesque entitled
VILIKINS AND HIS DINAH.
Characters:
Master Grumbleton Gruffin, a rich (soap) merchant of London, the original parient
Baron Boski Bumble, ancestor of the celebrated beadle, the original lovier so gallant and gay
William Wilkins, socially and convivially known as Vilikins, a young apprentice, in desperate love with
Dinah Gruffin, the sole feminine offspring of the above-mentioned soap-merchant, in love with the aforesaid Vilikins
God save the Queen.
This, the first appearance of the “Hyperboreans,” was eminently successful, and elicited both laughter and applause from our very appreciative and demonstrative audience. Mademoiselle Blanc (Mr. White) made a fascinating little Dinah of six feet high, dressed in a Dolly Varden costume, whilst the other ladies were all that could be desired, and looked charming in their gorgeous silk and muslin dresses.
In this respect we had a decided advantage over our consort, the “Discovery;” for her space on board being somewhat limited, the building of an ice theatre on the floe became necessary. Here, though the building was spacious and elegant, thetemperature was rarely above zero! The ladies were therefore unable to indulge in low dresses, and a close observer might have detected underclothing composed of seal-skins beneath their otherwise gay and brilliant costumes.
Occasionally, as the two following bills will show, we were agreeably surprised by the announcement of an entire change of programme.
H.M.S. “ALERT.”THURSDAY POPS.December 16th, 1875.Great attraction! The latest novelty of the season!!The Wizard of the North!!!For one night only!!!!Programme:The entertainment will commence withA few Words on Steam. . Mr. Wootton.After which the only and veritableWizard OF the North,en routeto his hyperborean domicile,will exhibit and expound some of his original and inimitable illusions and feats of prestidigitation, consisting of the following wonderful and startling tricks:—The vanishing egg.The magic die.The mysterious sixpence.The magic shawl.A startling surgical operation.The marvellous watch trick.Tricks with cards.The magic bag trick.The wonderful generating hat.The astounding prestidigitorial metamorphosis, performed withan egg and silk handkerchief.The inexhaustible bottle.Our very able and renowned pianist, Lieut. Aldrich, will, as usual,preside at the orchestra.To commence at 7.30 precisely.God save the Queen.Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.THURSDAY POPS.H.M.S. “ALERT.”January 20th, 1876.GRAND PHANTASMAGORIAL EXHIBITIONandMUSICAL ENTERTAINMENT.To commence withA few Words on Astronomy, by Com. Markham,Illustrated by the aid of a magic lantern.To be followed by a series ofDissolving Views,Consisting of coloured representations ofRemarkable places in England,Photographic sketches of foreign countries, etc.After which, the wonderful and startling adventures ofSindbad the SailorWill be related by the Rev. H. W. Pullen.In the next place Com. Markham will give a life-like andentertaining display of various specimens inNatural History;andLieut. Aldrich will recite the true and touchingTale of a Tub.To conclude with some highly amusingComic Scenes.To commence at 7.30 precisely.God save the Queen.Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.
H.M.S. “ALERT.”
THURSDAY POPS.
December 16th, 1875.
Great attraction! The latest novelty of the season!!The Wizard of the North!!!For one night only!!!!
Programme:The entertainment will commence withA few Words on Steam. . Mr. Wootton.After which the only and veritable
Wizard OF the North,
en routeto his hyperborean domicile,
will exhibit and expound some of his original and inimitable illusions and feats of prestidigitation, consisting of the following wonderful and startling tricks:—
The vanishing egg.The magic die.The mysterious sixpence.The magic shawl.A startling surgical operation.The marvellous watch trick.Tricks with cards.The magic bag trick.The wonderful generating hat.The astounding prestidigitorial metamorphosis, performed withan egg and silk handkerchief.The inexhaustible bottle.Our very able and renowned pianist, Lieut. Aldrich, will, as usual,preside at the orchestra.To commence at 7.30 precisely.
God save the Queen.
Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.
THURSDAY POPS.
H.M.S. “ALERT.”
January 20th, 1876.
GRAND PHANTASMAGORIAL EXHIBITIONandMUSICAL ENTERTAINMENT.
To commence withA few Words on Astronomy, by Com. Markham,Illustrated by the aid of a magic lantern.To be followed by a series of
Dissolving Views,
Consisting of coloured representations ofRemarkable places in England,Photographic sketches of foreign countries, etc.After which, the wonderful and startling adventures of
Sindbad the Sailor
Will be related by the Rev. H. W. Pullen.In the next place Com. Markham will give a life-like andentertaining display of various specimens in
Natural History;
andLieut. Aldrich will recite the true and touching
Tale of a Tub.
To conclude with some highly amusing
Comic Scenes.
To commence at 7.30 precisely.
God save the Queen.
Messrs. Giffard and Symons, Printing Office, Trap Lane.
These amusements may be considered light and frivolous, for men engaged in such a serious undertaking as that upon which we were embarked; still they all tended to one point—namely, the successful issue of the enterprise. For they kept the minds of the men employed with pleasant and agreeable thoughts, drove away all feelings of tedium and dulness, and thus assisted largely in promoting thegeneral well-being and satisfactory sanitary condition of the expedition during the long night of nearly one hundred and fifty days. They effectually banished despondency, and assisted in making all hands cheerful, happy, and contented.
1Lieutenant Giffard and Robert Symons, A.B.2Petersen, the Danish interpreter, and the ship’s cook Dominick a native of Gibraltar.
1Lieutenant Giffard and Robert Symons, A.B.
2Petersen, the Danish interpreter, and the ship’s cook Dominick a native of Gibraltar.
CHAPTER XV.
WINTER OCCUPATIONS AND AMUSEMENTS.
“Darkness, Light’s eldest brother, his birthrightClaimed o’er this world, and to heaven chased light.”Donne.
“Darkness, Light’s eldest brother, his birthright
Claimed o’er this world, and to heaven chased light.”
Donne.
“Behold the wandering moonRiding near her highest noon,Like one that hath been led astrayThrough the heavens’ wide pathless way;And oft as if her head she bowed,Stooping through a fleecy cloud.”Milton.
“Behold the wandering moon
Riding near her highest noon,
Like one that hath been led astray
Through the heavens’ wide pathless way;
And oft as if her head she bowed,
Stooping through a fleecy cloud.”
Milton.
Thesun, as has been mentioned in a previous chapter, took its final departure on the 11th of October. From this date darkness gradually settled upon us, reaching its greatest intensity on the 21st of December. The type of a leading article in theTimesnewspaper was taken by us as a test of the darkness. This was last read in the open air at midday on the 6th of November, and then only by a few with a great deal of difficulty. Many unsuccessful attempts were made on subsequent days. For a fortnight on either side of the 21st of December, the difference in the light between noon and midnight, on a clear day, was almost imperceptible, on a dull day it was quite inappreciable. Occasionally, at other times, at midday a faint luminous band might be observed alongthe southern horizon, but this was all the indication we had of the difference between day and night.
We did not forget to celebrate on the 21st of October the Battle of Trafalgar, remembering that our great naval hero, Nelson,1was himself an old Arctic navigator. Our caterers provided us with a good dinner, and we were regaled, as a great indulgence on such an auspicious occasion, with an extra glass of wine! Two elaborate bills of fare were placed on the table, on one of which was very creditably sketched the “Alert” in winter quarters, and on the other was depicted the Battle of Trafalgar, with the motto on each, “England expects every manthisday to do his duty!” As there was a good dinner on the table, and the cold weather had made us wondrous hungry, we all responded nobly to the call!
The 5th of November was another anniversary that could not pass unnoticed. On that evening the effigy of Guy Fawkes, ingeniously stuffed with squibs and seated on a cask well smeared with tar, was duly paraded round the upper deck, accompanied by the drums and fifes playing the “Rogue’s March.” It was then dragged, on a sledge, to the summit of a neighbouring hummock, and there solemnly burnt in presence of the whole ship’s company. The band continued to play until the lips and fingers of the fifers became so frost-bitten that they were compelled to desist. It was a novel sight to see the dusky forms of the men, clad in seal-skins, dancing round a blazing fire on the top of an enormous mass of ice, whilst in the background was the ship with her masts and yards thickly coated with snow, and all her ropesclearly defined in the bright “bonfire light.” A beautiful balloon, manufactured by Moss out of various coloured tissue-papers, also formed a prominent feature in the evening’s display. Unfortunately, shortly after it was released, and before it had ascended to any very great height, it caught fire and was quickly consumed.
It must not be supposed, because I enumerate all the little incidents connected with the amusements of the men, that other and more important work was neglected. On the contrary, the officers were unceasingly engaged during the winter in taking scientific observations in their respective departments; each officer being awarded some special subject. These included observations in astronomy, magnetism, electricity, meteorology, tides, spectrum analysis, observations for the detection of the polarization of light, chlorine, and specific gravity estimations. The pursuit of these investigations was at times a matter of great difficulty and extreme personal discomfort. It necessitated attendance in, and consequent exposure to, a temperature many degrees below zero, for several hours at a time. Under these circumstances it is no easy matter to handle delicate instruments, the manipulation of which, even in a temperate climate, requires the utmost care and caution. Made extremely brittle by the intense cold, a fall to any of the small metal movable parts of an instrument, such as the needles, would be fatal, yet it is almost impossible to touch them with the uncovered hand. The breath freezing on the arcs and verniers of the instruments during the time of observation, and on the glasses of the telescopes and mirrors, adds seriously to the difficulty; whilst the unequal contraction of differentmetals during intensely cold weather renders some of the instruments totally useless.
Paraselenæ, or mock moons, and auroras were of frequent occurrence, but none of the latter were sufficiently bright to call for special mention. These phenomena were always carefully examined, and the results recorded. As a rule the auroras consisted of faint coruscations darting across the heavens through the zenith, frequently in the form of an irregular arch terminating at each end on the horizon, and generally accompanied by various small luminous patches.
The lunations of the moon were periods that were always looked forward to, and gladly welcomed, affording as they did, on clear bright days, a marked contrast to the gruesome darkness that generally prevailed. These clear days were not inappropriately termed “moony” ones, and were taken advantage of to perform all work that was considered necessary outside the ship.
“Rising in clouded majesty, at lengthThe moon unveiled her peerless lightAnd o’er the dark her silver mantle threw.”
“Rising in clouded majesty, at length
The moon unveiled her peerless light
And o’er the dark her silver mantle threw.”
Even on these bright silvery “moony” days it was unsafe to venture to any distance from the ship, as the sudden “veiling of her peerless light” by fog or clouds would produce total darkness, and so prevent the unfortunate wanderer from finding his way back.
Great attention was paid to the important duty of seeing that a proper amount of exercise was taken by every soul on board. Open-air exercise was the more essential to health, because the air we breathed on board was not as pure as might be desired. This was inevitable, and the evil could only be partiallycounteracted by strict attention to the enforcing of outdoor exercise. A walk was constructed along the floe near the ship, for a distance of half a mile, marked at every two or three yards by small heaps of empty preserved meat tins, placed there by our industrious doctor. We were thus able to take our exercise along this promenade even on the darkest day, and the number of times that each individual walked up and down during the day was proudly recounted at the dinner-table. The darkness prevented walks to any greater distance for a considerable time. This then was our fashionable lounge, and was called the “Ladies’ Mile” after the drive of the same name in Hyde Park.
Our greatest annoyance was undoubtedly caused by the incessant drip in our cabins and elsewhere on board. So bad was it that all books had to be removed from the shelves, or from any position where they were in contact with the ship’s side or the beams overhead. Especially over our beds did we suffer, and could only make certain of a dry night’s rest by taking the precaution of nailing a blanket over the bed, or sloping one as an awning! No means that we could devise, although many experiments were tried on the living deck of the men as well as by the officers in their cabins, lessened the condensation from which we suffered, and which increased with any rise of temperature. One officer went so far as to light, and keep burning for a whole day, no less than fifty-two candles and one lamp in his cabin, hoping by these means to dry it thoroughly; but although it answered the purpose for a day or two, at an enormous cost, it was soon as bad as ever. During the time of hisilluminationhe succeeded in raising the temperatureof his cabin from 40° to 75°! It is decidedly unpleasant, whilst writing, to have a continual stream of water pouring down upon your head and upon your paper; yet it is impossible to prevent this disagreeable drip.
One of my messmates, more fortunate than his brother officers, had brought an umbrella with him, and this being spread over his chair protected him from the wet, and thus enabled him to read or write in comparative comfort, and, what was perhaps of greater consequence, with the perfect preservation of his temper.
It may appear like affectation on my part when I say that any rise of temperature, during the winter, was viewed by us with dissatisfaction. Clad as we were to resist a cold of many degrees below zero, we were made absolutely uncomfortable by theheatwhen the thermometer indicated any degree with a + sign. The only real good that we derived from such a rise of temperature was that we were able more freely to throw open the doors leading down to the lower deck, and thus admit a thorough circulation of fresh air; on one occasion during the month of November the temperature rose as high as 23°, and in December it reached the unprecedented height (for that season of the year) of 35°! These, of course, were only occasional jumps, never of long duration, and were apparently produced by gales of wind from the S.W. Our experience at the “Alert’s” winter quarters was that a breeze of wind raised the temperature, and that our coldest weather was always registered on perfectly still and clear days! During boisterous tempestuous weather the pack, although stationary, moaned and groaned weirdly, as if unhappy gnomes, imprisoned inthe cold grasp of the frozen sea, were bewailing their hard fate, and pleading for release from their icy fetters. The young ice, too, in the vicinity of the ship cracked in a most alarming manner, each crack being accompanied by a sharp and loud report, and formed great fissures, leaving the surface, which had hitherto been smooth and level, rugged and uneven. Well might the “Ancient Mariner,” describing such a scene, say—
“It cracked and growled, and roared and howled,Like noises in a swound.”
“It cracked and growled, and roared and howled,
Like noises in a swound.”
This movement of the ice, slight as it was, exposed the “Alert” to great pressure, and although it did not amount to an actual “nip,” nor did it in any way cause injury to the ship, it made her list over several degrees. Now, as we in the ward-room were on a limited allowance of wine, namely two glasses a day, this heeling over of the vessel caused us great annoyance, as it prevented our glasses from being filled to the brim, a custom that had been rigidly followed out since leaving England. This curtailment of our “rights,” as we were pleased to call them, was very naturally regarded with a certain amount of disfavour. In order to lessen, if we could not entirely rectify this evil, we supplied ourselves with ingeniously made little wedges, which, being placed under theleeside of the wine-glass, brought it so nearly upright that we succeeded in very nearly getting our full allowance.
The birthdays of the officers were invariably celebrated by the best dinners that our indefatigable and energetic caterers could provide, always having in view the chance of the ship spending three winters in the Arctic Regions. As a special indulgence we were also allowed on these occasions a glass of port wineafter dinner, a treat that we ordinarily had only twice a week. The composition of themenusfor these sumptuous feasts was always a subject of anxious care and forethought on the part of those who were entrusted with this important duty. Long and earnest were the consultations that were held, before one of them was satisfactorily composed and placed in the printer’s hands.
MENU.Potages.Mulligatawny.Poissons.Pégouse à la Couverture de Laine.2Entrées.Petits Pâtés d’Homard à la Chasse.3Rognons à la Pain rôti.Relevés.Mouton rôti à l’Anglais. Tongues on Gimbals.Entremets.Poudin aux Raisins.Blanc-manger à la Hummock.Petits Pâtés d’Hahis à la place d’Eccleston.Dessert.Poudin glacé à la Hyperborean.Figues. Noce.Gâteau à l’lrlandais.Café et Liqueur á la Jesson.November 11th, 1875.
MENU.
Potages.Mulligatawny.
Poissons.Pégouse à la Couverture de Laine.2
Entrées.Petits Pâtés d’Homard à la Chasse.3Rognons à la Pain rôti.
Relevés.Mouton rôti à l’Anglais. Tongues on Gimbals.
Entremets.Poudin aux Raisins.Blanc-manger à la Hummock.Petits Pâtés d’Hahis à la place d’Eccleston.
Dessert.Poudin glacé à la Hyperborean.Figues. Noce.Gâteau à l’lrlandais.Café et Liqueur á la Jesson.
November 11th, 1875.
As we were living in a land in which little could be obtained in the way of change, the object was to diversify as much as possible the names of the same viands, so as to make the guests believe that the dinners were entirely different. The names given to some of the dishes were decidedly original. On the previous page is the firstprintedbill of fare that was placed on the table.
Shortly after the ship had been established in winter quarters, a careful calculation was made of the amount of fresh meat we possessed.
By fresh meat, I mean meat of the musk-oxen and sheep that we had killed, and not the freshpreservedmeat, of which we had an ample supply. It was found we had sufficient to yield fourteen meals, at the rate of one pound per man per meal. It was, therefore, determined to issue a fresh meat meal twice every three weeks, and, at the doctor’s recommendation, this was done on two consecutive days. In his opinion this method of apportioning it was the most conducive to health.
Beer, of which we had been provided with ten hogsheads specially brewed for us by Allsopp, was issued, so long as a cask was “on tap,” twice a week. On these days half the allowance of spirits only was served out.
On Sundays Divine service was regularly performed between decks; the morning and evening services being read on alternate Sundays.
Prayers were read daily on the upper deck. The Holy Communion was celebrated on the first Sunday in every month. Considering the small number of men from among whom the choir was selected, and the necessarily slight amount of practice they could have, the singing at church was very creditable. Aldrich played the accompaniment on a harmonium that we had obtained from the ward-room officers of the “Valorous,” before parting company with that ship at Disco. The credit of originating and instructing the choir was, of course, due to Pullen and Aldrich.
Medical inspections were held regularly on the first day of each month, when every officer and man was minutely questioned and examined. Nothing could be more satisfactory than the medical report of the sanitary condition of the men at the conclusion of these examinations.
The amount of compulsory open-air exercise that had to be taken by each man was two hours a day; but most of the men, that is to say all the working hands exclusive of cooks, stewards, and servants, were invariably at work,outsidethe ship, for at least five hours a day. A very favourite and at the same time healthy pastime of the men in their leisure hours, when the moon was up, was that of “tabogganing.” This consisted in dragging one of our small satellites or dog-sledges to the summit of a neighbouring hill, and then coming down, two or three on the sledge, at the rate of about sixty or seventy miles an hour! The men enjoyed this amazingly, and used to race one sledge against another. As they were not very expert in the management of these “taboggans,” and had little confidence in their own steering, they would, when they saw there was a chance of their sledgecoming to grief, tumble out and roll for some distance after it. Fortunately the snow was soft and they never came to harm.
Rawson, who had acquired a knowledge of this sport in Canada, was the first to introduce it in the far north. The dexterity with which he managed his “taboggan” was marvellous, and he would frequently, accompanied by one of his messmates, come down the steep side of one of the highest floe-bergs in the vicinity of the ship. Poor “Nellie” could never understand whence the motive power of these machines was derived, and used to rush round barking at us in a frantic manner when we first started, until left far behind plunging in the soft snow and struggling to keep pace with us.
It was wonderful how this dog withstood the cold. The colder the day the more she appeared to enjoy it, dashing about in the soft fine snow and picking up pieces of ice in her mouth for the purpose of having them thrown for her. It must be remembered that for any one of us to touch a piece of ice with the uncovered hand in a temperature 50° below zero would have been a very serious matter; yet Nellie was able, in the same temperature, to carry pieces of ice, or bits of metal or stone, in her mouth for hours together. The only cause of annoyance to the poor old doggie was the caking or balling of the snow between her toes, which used to trouble her a good deal. To obviate this, four little flannel moccasins were made for her feet; but, although she enjoyed wearing them and seemed to be proud of her appearance in them, they had to be discontinued, as we were afraid that the tying them on sufficiently tight to prevent their coming off might stop the circulation of the bloodand thus produce frost-bite. On the whole, however, Nellie throve wonderfully well, and until the following summer enjoyed perfect health. She was my constant companion wherever I went, attending me during my walks, and lying curled up at my feet in the observatory during the long hours that I was employed taking magnetic observations. She always slept in an arm-chair in my cabin, being provided with her own little blanket, on which her name was embroidered.
Before concluding this chapter it will be as well to relate an interesting and rather curious incident connected with one of our Eskimo dogs.
In Aldrich’s sledge journey to Cape Joseph Henry, one of his dogs (Sallie), being attacked with a fit, had to be cast off from the team and was no more seen by him during that journey.
On crossing the floe with my sledge party about a week after, we were suddenly joined, to our great surprise, by an Eskimo dog which the men readily recognized as Sallie; all our attempts to make her approach were unsuccessful, although she followed us at a distance during the day and hovered round our camp, picking up scraps of pemmican that had been purposely left out for her during the night. She eluded all attempts at being caught, running away on the ice and disappearing amongst the hummocks. She followed us faithfully, at a distance, until the day we returned to the ship, when she vanished altogether. She was last seen on the floe about four miles from the “Alert.”
Amid the many preparations for the winter, poor Sallie was forgotten and had almost passed out of recollection altogether, when one day in December, more thantwomonths after she had been last seen, a strange dog was observed hovering round the ship. This strange dog proved to be the long-lost Sallie!
No amount of coaxing would persuade her to come near us, and she was eventually driven off by the other Eskimo dogs, and took refuge on the pack. On the following day she again made her appearance, and this time we succeeded in getting her on board and into a place of safety. She was terribly thin and emaciated; but being well cared for and attended to, she rapidly picked up, and was eventually the strongest and best dog in our whole team.
The question as to how she had existed during herlong absence from the ship was a difficult one to solve. At first it was surmised that she had attached herself to a pack of wolves; but this idea was scouted, as no tracks had been seen to lead us to believe that these animals existed in our neighbourhood. It is not probable that she obtained anything from the ship during the time she was missing, or that she picked up scraps from the other dogs, for on her appearance she was at once driven away by her old companions. The only probable conclusion that we could arrive at was that she had supported life by hunting and feasting on lemmings, for the traces of these little animals were the only indications that we had of the existence, outside our own circle, of animal life.
1Nelson served as a midshipman on board the “Carcass,” in Captain Phipps’ North Polar Expedition in 1773.2Blanket wrappers were articles of wearing apparel.3The name of the cook was Hunt.
1Nelson served as a midshipman on board the “Carcass,” in Captain Phipps’ North Polar Expedition in 1773.
2Blanket wrappers were articles of wearing apparel.
3The name of the cook was Hunt.
CHAPTER XVI.
AN ARCTIC CHRISTMAS.
“So now is come our joyful’st feast,Let every man be jolly,Eache roome with yvie leaves is drest,And every post with holly;Now all our neighbours’ chimneys smoke,And Christmas blocks are burning;Their ovens they with baked meats choke,And all their spits are turning.Without the door let sorrow lie,And if, for cold, it hap to die,We’ll bury’t in a Christmas pye,And ever more be merry.”Wither.
“So now is come our joyful’st feast,
Let every man be jolly,
Eache roome with yvie leaves is drest,
And every post with holly;
Now all our neighbours’ chimneys smoke,
And Christmas blocks are burning;
Their ovens they with baked meats choke,
And all their spits are turning.
Without the door let sorrow lie,
And if, for cold, it hap to die,
We’ll bury’t in a Christmas pye,
And ever more be merry.”
Wither.
Onthe 21st of December the sun reached its greatest southern declination. We felt on that day that we had cause for rejoicing. The sun had arrived at the limit of its southern journey, and now it would, every day, be travelling to the northward, and therefore in our direction. So rapidly had the time passed that Christmas stole upon us unawares, and we were only reminded of its approach by the strong odour of good things being cooked that pervaded the whole ship, bringing to our minds the fact that preparations for its celebration had actually commenced. Nothing was omitted that could possibly add to the comfort and enjoyment of the men on this day. The ship’sstores were thrown open and they were allowed to provide themselves with an unlimited amount, so long as there was no waste, of flour, raisins, sugar, and preserved fruits, and in addition to the regular daily allowance of meat, a pound of musk-ox beef and a pound of mutton were issued to each man. For the two previous days, during which they had been disturbed as little as possible, the men were engaged in making the necessary preparations for spending their Christmas as happily and as socially as if they were in a more genial climate. It must be remembered that this was a day looked forward to by all, not only in the light of a festival, but because it was also regarded as the turning-point of the winter. After Christmas every day would bring us nearer to the sun, whose bright face we all so ardently wished to welcome once more. Moreover, Christmas day, to a community situated as we were, “away from the busy haunts of men,” must always be regarded as an epoch, a day looked forward to, and when passed, a day from which many events are dated.
In addition to the supplies afforded by the stores of the ship, we were largely indebted to kind, and in several instances unknown, friends and well-wishers to the expedition in England for many little articles that assisted to amuse our men during this festive season. Amongst these the kind and generous ladies of Queenstown must not be forgotten. These ladies had, previous to our departure from England, formed themselves into a Committee, and had sent to each ship a large Christmas-box containing many useful, and indeed valuable, articles. Each officer received some little package, personally directed to himself, and every man was presented with some pretty littleChristmas-box. Nothing could have been more happily thought of, and it would have done the fair donors good could they but have witnessed the pleasure testified by the recipients at the distribution of the contents of their case.
I must not omit to mention another Christmas-box, kindly sent by Mr. Mason, the inventor, I believe, of “Somebody’s Luggage,” and containing all sorts of amusing little articles suitable either for decorating a table or a Christmas-tree.
Another act of kindness on the part of our friends in England was also much appreciated by both officers and men. A young lady, a relative of one of the officers, had taken the trouble to direct a letter to each individual on board, containing a beautiful Christmas card. To make it appear as if they had been actually delivered through the post, a second-hand postage-stamp had been affixed to each envelope. Her kind forethought afforded a great deal of pleasure to the recipients of those letters.
Christmas eve was spent very merrily by all on board the “Alert.” The piano was carried out from the ward-room to the main deck, where dancing was kept up with great animation until eleven o’clock! It is wonderful how fond the English man-of-war’s man is of dancing. So long as he can obtain music and a partner to dance with, without regard to sex, he will continue to fling his legs about with great vigour until compelled by heat and exhaustion to desist! The men on board the “Alert” were no exception to this rule; one and all joined in the dance, and seemed thoroughly to enjoy it. Poor Aldrich did not get a moment’s peace. As soon as one tune was finished, he was called upon for another. Polka,waltz, and galop followed each other in rapid succession, officers and men joining alike in the general hilarity of the evening.
Christmas morning broke cold and clear; its stillness occasionally interrupted by light puffs of wind from the S.W. Divine service was performed in the forenoon, the pulpit being decorated with branches of artificial holly. When church was over, a little exercise was taken on the “ladies’ mile.” On my return I found my cabin brightened up by small twigs of variegated holly, a delicate and touching attention on the part of some of my messmates, who had provided themselves with artificial branches of this plant before leaving England. At one o’clock, everything being in readiness, the officers were invited to inspect the lower deck. Preceded by our drum and fife band playing the “Roast Beef of Old England,” we paid a formal visit to the men’s quarters. The lower deck was beautifully and tastefully decorated with flags, coloured tinsel paper, and artificial flowers, whilst the different mess tables were literally groaning under the weight of the good cheer that adorned them. Everything had a cheerful and comfortable appearance, and, above all, the radiant healthy-looking faces, beaming with pleasure, that so cordially and heartily greeted us with the compliments of the season. Of course, dancing was the prominent feature of the afternoon, Aldrich, with his usual good nature, being again victimized at the piano. At six o’clock, for on such an important occasion we departed from our usual dinner hour of half-past two, we all assembled in the ward-room for dinner, and great was our astonishment and delight at seeing in the centre of our table a magnificentbouquet of artificial flowers. This was, I believe, the happy thought of a lady who had recently been admitted into the circle of “Arctic relations.” The bright-coloured flowers, reminding us of home associations, were more thoroughly appreciated than even the good dinner which was provided for us, for which reference must be made to the followingmenu, composed by Pullen:—
H.M.S. “ALERT.”
À la Juliènne soup is thepotagewe favour,And soles friedau naturelserve us for fish;We have cutlets and green peas of elegant flavour—Beef garnished with mushrooms—a true English dish.Then a mountain of beef from our cold Greenland valleys,Overshadowing proudly boiled mutton hard by,Till our appetite, waning, just playfully dalliesWith a small slice of ham—then gives in with a sigh.For lo! a real English plum-pudding doth greet us,And a crest of bright holly adorns its bold brow;While the choicest mince pies are yet waiting to meet us:Alas! are we equal to meeting them now?So we drink to our Queen, and we drink to the maiden,The wife, or the mother, that holds us most dear;And may we and our consort sail home richly ladenWith the spoils of success, ere December next year!
À la Juliènne soup is thepotagewe favour,
And soles friedau naturelserve us for fish;
We have cutlets and green peas of elegant flavour—
Beef garnished with mushrooms—a true English dish.
Then a mountain of beef from our cold Greenland valleys,
Overshadowing proudly boiled mutton hard by,
Till our appetite, waning, just playfully dallies
With a small slice of ham—then gives in with a sigh.
For lo! a real English plum-pudding doth greet us,
And a crest of bright holly adorns its bold brow;
While the choicest mince pies are yet waiting to meet us:
Alas! are we equal to meeting them now?
So we drink to our Queen, and we drink to the maiden,
The wife, or the mother, that holds us most dear;
And may we and our consort sail home richly laden
With the spoils of success, ere December next year!
In addition to the bill of fare, the annexed poem by the same accomplished author was printed and placed in front of each member of the mess.
On this glad Christmas Day,While happy bells are flingingO’er bright lands far awayTheir burst of joyous singing,We love to think that each sweet lay,That sets those echoes ringing,Hushed music from our icy bayTo loving hearts is bringing.Hushed music that shall tellHow He has left us never,In whose dear sight we dwell,Who aids our high endeavour;Who, from the hearts that love us well,Our short lives will not sever,For whose good gifts our breasts shall swellWith grateful praise for ever!
On this glad Christmas Day,
While happy bells are flinging
O’er bright lands far away
Their burst of joyous singing,
We love to think that each sweet lay,
That sets those echoes ringing,
Hushed music from our icy bay
To loving hearts is bringing.
Hushed music that shall tell
How He has left us never,
In whose dear sight we dwell,
Who aids our high endeavour;
Who, from the hearts that love us well,
Our short lives will not sever,
For whose good gifts our breasts shall swell
With grateful praise for ever!
Our drum and fife band, of their own accord, played several airs very creditably during our dinner, which was brought to a conclusion by a few short speeches. In the evening dancing was again kept up with great animation; every one appeared cheerful and happy. In no region of the world could this Christmas-day have been spent with more mirth and more genuine fellowship than it was by the little band of explorers, so far removed from all home ties and associations, who were celebrating it that day, in a latitude farther north than man had ever before penetrated.
On reviewing the events of the year we felt we had much to be thankful for. We had succeeded, in spite of many dangers and difficulties, in establishing our ship in winter quarters in a position farther north than even some of the most sanguine had, at one time, dared to hope. The English flag had been displayed, both by sea and by land, in a higher northern latitude than any flag had ever before been seen, and although our prospects of further exploration in a northerly direction were somewhat damped, owing to the land trending west, we knew that there was much to be done during the ensuing year in defining and exploring the coasts to the east and to the west. A wide field of exploration was still before us, and there was much useful work to be done during the ensuing spring in a hitherto unknown region.
Half our winter had passed, and although the long dark night of one hundred and fifty days might, by some unacquainted with the many resources we possessed to while away the time, be considered dull and monotonous, monotony and despondency were unknown on board the good ship “Alert.” We all looked forward with eager hope to the return of the sun, strong in our determination to do our best, and with our appetites for sledging considerably whetted by the initiation we had received during the autumn.
Hitherto we had, with one exception, enjoyed perfect immunity from sickness, and we all thought that if there was no cold weather in the Arctic Regions to produce frost-bites, the appointments of medical officers to the expedition, so far as their professional qualifications were concerned, were undoubted sinecures. The frost-bites had, however, been very severe, and at the end of the year there still remained on the sick list four of the poor fellows who had been attacked during the autumn sledging, three of whom had suffered amputation of the big toe.
Compelled to keep to their beds, the winter to them must have, indeed, been wearisome; but no word of complaint was ever uttered by them, and they appeared as cheerful and in as good spirits as the best of us. Their only distress was the idea of not being allowed, in consequence of their misfortune, to participate in the spring campaign. The sequel, however, proved, although they took no part in theextendedsledging operations, how well and how nobly they worked in their brave endeavours to assist and succour their poor, weak, and stricken comrades; but we must not anticipate.
We had hitherto experienced, in comparison withwhat we had been led to expect, tolerably mild weather, as Arctic winter weather goes; and the cold had not been so severe as we anticipated; -46.5° or 78½° below freezing-point being, up to the end of the year, the minimum temperature registered. This was by no means an uncomfortable temperature, although superficial frost-bites, especially on the noses and cheekbones, were of constant occurrence. Solitary walks were, of course, prohibited; and it was particularly impressed upon every one that, when they were absent from the ship, they were carefully to watch their companions’ faces in order to detect a frost-bite at once, and so be able to restore circulation before permanent injury could be sustained. Face-covers were occasionally worn, but were not in very great favour. They have the disadvantage of freezing to the face, which they also conceal, and so prevent a comrade from seeing and reporting a frost-bite.
In the neighbourhood of our winter quarters there had, up to this time, been a remarkable absence of all animal life. Occasionally the quarter-masters would report that during the night they heard the howling of wolves in the distance, and one night the Eskimo dogs, who were lying curled up in the snow outside the ship, made a sudden rush for the gangway, and evinced great eagerness to get on board. This stampede was attributed to the presence of wolves, but no tracks of these animals had been seen to justify our arriving at such a conclusion. With the exception sometimes of a peculiar, whistling, moaning sound, caused by the rise and fall of the ice with the tide, the stillness of the nights was undisturbed.
We had long been aware that the ice of which this part of the polar sea was composed consisted of hugemassive floes, not of a few seasons’ formation, but the creation of ages, real thick-ribbed ice. Except along the west coasts of Banks and Prince Patrick Islands, no such ice had ever before been met with in the Arctic Regions. It therefore became desirable to apply to it a special name by which it might be provisionally known. After some discussion, Captain Nares decided upon calling the frozen sea, on the southern border of which we were wintering, the “Palæocrystic Sea,” the name being derived from the two Greek wordsπαλαιοςancient, andκρυσταλλοςice. This term was used for the great frozen polar sea during the remaining period of our detention on its borders.1
Atmospheric phenomena, such as halos and paraselenæ, were by no means uncommon, and occasionally we were astonished by the heavenly bodies behaving, as it appeared to us, in a very eccentric manner. On one occasion the star Aldebaran was reported to be jumping about in a strange way. Such unusual behaviour on the part of a star brought us all up in the cold, and there, sure enough, was Aldebaran doing exactly what was reported, and altogether conducting itself in a very erratic and unstarlike manner. The illusion was caused by the fall of minute, and imperceptible, frozen particles; but it was some time before we could satisfy ourselves that the star was not actually in motion, many of the men remaining to this day unconvinced. One of our Scotch quarter-masters informed me, some time afterwards, that itwas a “vara curious star;” and although the laws of refraction were explained to him, he still persisted in his belief that the movement of the star was due to itself, and would not believe in any other explanation.
At the beginning of the winter, shortly after the return of the sledge parties, the doctor and myself being busily engaged in the construction of a snow house on shore, observed a most brilliant meteor fall, apparently about a quarter of a mile from us, its course being from S.E. to N.W. It was of a bright emerald-green colour, and was falling so quietly and slowly that we at first thought it was a rocket, or Roman candle, let off by some one astern of the ship, it being distinctly visible for many seconds. When it arrived, in our estimation, at about forty feet from the ground, it suddenly burst, displaying bright red and green colours. It was seen by others, from different points of observation; all being unanimous in their opinion that it was one of the most beautiful sights, of the kind, they had ever witnessed.