What sights and sounds at which the world has wonderedWithin these wild ravines have had their birth!Young Freedom's cannon from these glens have thunderedAnd sent their startling echoes o'er the earth.Charles Fenno Hoffman.
What sights and sounds at which the world has wonderedWithin these wild ravines have had their birth!Young Freedom's cannon from these glens have thunderedAnd sent their startling echoes o'er the earth.
What sights and sounds at which the world has wondered
Within these wild ravines have had their birth!
Young Freedom's cannon from these glens have thundered
And sent their startling echoes o'er the earth.
Charles Fenno Hoffman.
Charles Fenno Hoffman.
Cornwall-on-the-Hudson.—This locality N. P. Willis selected as the most picturesque point on the Hudson. The village lies in a lovely valley, which Mr. Beach has styled in his able description, as "an offshoot of the Ramapo, up which the storm-winds of the ocean drive, laden with the purest and freshest air."
Idlewild.—Where Willis spent the last years of his life is a charming spot and rich with poetic memories. E. P. Roe also chose Cornwall for his home. Lovers of the Hudson are indebted to Edward Bok for his realistic sketch of an afternoon visit. The "Idlewild" of to-day is still green to the memory of the poet. Since Willis' death the place has passed in turn into various hands, until now it belongs to a wealthy New York lawyer, who has spent thousands of dollars on the house and grounds. The old house still stands, and here and there in the grounds remains a suggestion of the time of Willis. The famous pine-drive leading to the mansion, along which the greatest literary lights of the Knickerbocker period passed during its palmy days, still remains intact, the dense growth of the trees only making the road the more picturesque. The brook, at which Willis often sat, still runs on through the grounds as of yore. In the house, everything is remodeled and remodernized. The room from whose windows Willis was wont to look over the Hudson, and where he did most of his charming writing, is now a bedchamber, modern in its every appointment, and suggesting its age only by the high ceiling and curious mantel. Only a few city blocks from "Idlewild"[page 103]is the house where lived E. P. Roe, the author of so many popular novels, as numerous, almost, in number as the several hundreds of thousands of circulation which they secured. There are twenty-three acres to it in all, and, save what was occupied by the house, every inch of ground was utilized by the novelist in his hobby for fine fruits and rare flowers. Now nothing remains of the beauty once so characteristic of the place. For four years the grounds have missed the care of their creator. Where once were the novelist's celebrated strawberry beds, are now only grass and weeds. Everything is grown over, only a few trees remaining as evidence that the grounds were ever known for their cultivated products. A large board sign announces the fact that the entire place is for sale.
The river narrows at their proud behestAnd creeps more darkly as it deeper flows,And fitful winds swirl through the long defileWhere the great Highlands keep their stern repose.E.A. Lente.
The river narrows at their proud behestAnd creeps more darkly as it deeper flows,And fitful winds swirl through the long defileWhere the great Highlands keep their stern repose.
The river narrows at their proud behest
And creeps more darkly as it deeper flows,
And fitful winds swirl through the long defile
Where the great Highlands keep their stern repose.
E.A. Lente.
E.A. Lente.
Cornwall has been for many years a favorite resort of the Hudson Valley and her roofs shelter in the summer season many thousand people. The road completed in 1876, from Cornwall to West Point, gives one a pleasant acquaintance with the wooded Highlands. It passes over the plateau of Cro' Nest and winds down the Cornwall slope of Storm King. The tourist who sees Cro' Nest and Storm King only from the river, has but little idea of their extent. Cro' Nest plateau is about one thousand feet above the parade ground of West Point, and overlooks it as a rocky balcony. These mountains, with their wonderful lake system, are, in fact, the "Central Park" of the Hudson. Within a radius of ten miles are clustered over forty lakes, and we very much doubt if one person in a thousand ever heard of them. A convenient map giving the physical geography of this section would be of great service to the mountain visitor. The Cornwall pier, built by theNew York, Ontario and Western Railroadin 1892 for coal and freight purposes, will be seen on our left near the Cornwall dock. This railroad leaves theWest Shoreat this point and forms a pleasant tourist route to the beautiful inland villages and resorts of the State.
A solitary gleam struck on the base of the Highlandpeak, and moved gracefully up its side, until reachingthe summit, it stood for a minute forming a crown ofglory to the sombre pile.James Fenimore Cooper.
A solitary gleam struck on the base of the Highlandpeak, and moved gracefully up its side, until reachingthe summit, it stood for a minute forming a crown ofglory to the sombre pile.
A solitary gleam struck on the base of the Highland
peak, and moved gracefully up its side, until reaching
the summit, it stood for a minute forming a crown of
glory to the sombre pile.
James Fenimore Cooper.
James Fenimore Cooper.
[page 104]
Newburgh, 60 miles from New York. Approaching the city of Newburgh, we see a building of rough stone, one story high, with steep roof—known as Washington's Headquarters. For several years prior to, and during the Revolution, this was the home of Jonathan Hasbrouck, known far and wide for business integrity and loyalty to liberty. This house was built by him, apparently, in decades; the oldest part, the northeast corner, in 1750; the southeast corner, in 1760, and the remaining half in 1770. It fronted west on the king's highway, now known as Liberty Street, with a garden and family burial plot to the east, lying between the house and the river. It was restored as nearly as possible to its original character on its purchase by the State in 1849, and it is now the treasure-house of many memories, and of valuable historic relics. A descriptive catalogue, prepared for the trustees, under act of May 11, 1874, by a patient and careful historian, Dr. E. M. Ruttenber, will be of service to the visitor and can be obtained on the grounds. The following facts, condensed from his admirable historical sketch, are of practical interest:
"Washington's Headquarters, or the Hasbrouck house, is situated in the southeast part of the city, constructed of rough stone, one story high, fifty-six feet front by forty-six feet in depth, and located on what was originally Lot No. 2, of the German Patent, with title vested in Heman (Herman?) Schoneman, a native of the Palatinate of Germany, who sold, in 1721, to James Alexander, who subsequently sold to Alexander Colden and Burger Meynders, by whom it was conveyed to Jonathan Hasbrouck, the grandson of Abraham Hasbrouck, one of the Huguenot founders of New Paltz. He was a man of marked character; of fine physique, being six feet and four inches in height; was colonel of the militia of the district, and[page 105]in frequent service in guarding the passes of the Highlands. His occupation was that of a farmer, a miller, and a merchant. He died in 1780. The first town meeting for the Precinct of Newburgh was held here on the first Tuesday in April, 1763, when its owner was elected supervisor. Public meetings continued to be held here for several years. During the early part of the Revolution, the committee of safety, of the precinct, assembled here; here military companies were organized, and here the regiment which Colonel Hasbrouck commanded assembled, to move hence to the defence of the Highland forts."
Sacred in this mansion hoary,'Neath its roof-tree long agoDwelt the father of our glory,He whose name appalled the foe.Mary E. Monell.
Sacred in this mansion hoary,'Neath its roof-tree long agoDwelt the father of our glory,He whose name appalled the foe.
Sacred in this mansion hoary,
'Neath its roof-tree long ago
Dwelt the father of our glory,
He whose name appalled the foe.
Mary E. Monell.
Mary E. Monell.
From this brief outline, it will be seen that the building is singularly associated with the history of the Old as well as of the New World: with the former through the original grantee of the land, recalling the wars which devastated the Palatinate and sent its inhabitants, fugitive and penniless, to other parts of Europe and to America; through his successor with the Huguenots of France, and, through the public meetings which assembled here, and especially through its occupation by Washington, with the struggle for American independence.
In the spring of 1782 Washington made this building his headquarters, and remained here until August 18, 1783, on the morning of which day he took his departure from Newburgh. At this place he passed through the most trying period of the Revolution: the year of inactivity on the part of Congress, of distress throughout the country, and of complaint and discontent in the army, the latter at one time bordering on revolt among the officers and soldiers.
It was at this place, on the 22d day of May, 1782, that Colonel Nicola, on behalf of himself and others, proposed that Washington should become king, for the "national advantage," a proposal that was received by Washington with "surprise and astonishment," "viewed with abhorrence," and "reprehended with severity." The temptation which was thus repelled by Washington, had[page 106]its origin with that portion of the officers of the army, who while giving their aid heartily to secure an independent government, nevertheless believed that that government should be a monarchy. The rejection of the proposition by Washington was not the only significant result. The rank and file of the army rose up against it, and around their camp-fires chanted their purpose in Billings' song, "No King but God!" From that hour a republic became the only possible form of government for the enfranchised Colonies.
With silvered locks and eyes grown dim,As victory's sun proclaimed the morn,He pushed aside the diademWith stern rebuke and patriot scorn.Wallace Bruce.
With silvered locks and eyes grown dim,As victory's sun proclaimed the morn,He pushed aside the diademWith stern rebuke and patriot scorn.
With silvered locks and eyes grown dim,
As victory's sun proclaimed the morn,
He pushed aside the diadem
With stern rebuke and patriot scorn.
Wallace Bruce.
Wallace Bruce.
The inattention of Congress to the payment of the army, during the succeeding winter, gave rise to an equally important episode in the history of the war. On the 10th of March, 1783, the first of the famous "Newburgh Letters" was issued, in which, by implication at least, the army was advised to revolt. The letter was followed by an anonymous manuscript notice for a public meeting of officers on the succeeding Tuesday. Washington was equal to the emergency. He expressed his disapprobation of the whole proceeding, and with great wisdom, requested the field officers, with one commissioned officer from each company, to meet on the Saturday preceding the time appointed by the anonymous notice. He attended this meeting and delivered before it one of the most touching and effective addresses on record. When he closed his remarks, the officers unanimously resolved "to reject with disdain" the infamous proposition contained in the anonymous address.
The meeting of officers referred to was held at the New Building or "Temple" as it was called, in New Windsor, but Washington's address was written at his headquarters. The "Newburgh Letters," to which it was a reply, were written by Major John Armstrong, aid-de-camp to General Gates. The anonymously called meeting was not held. The motives of its projectors we will not discuss; but its probable effect, had it been successful, must be considered in connection with Washington's encomium of the[page 107]result of the meeting which he had addressed: "Had this day been wanting, the world had never known the height to which human greatness is capable of attaining."
Freemen pause! this ground is holy,Noble spirits suffered here,Tardy Justice, marching slowly,Tried their faith from year to year.Mary E. Monell.
Freemen pause! this ground is holy,Noble spirits suffered here,Tardy Justice, marching slowly,Tried their faith from year to year.
Freemen pause! this ground is holy,
Noble spirits suffered here,
Tardy Justice, marching slowly,
Tried their faith from year to year.
Mary E. Monell.
Mary E. Monell.
Serene and calm in peril's hour,An honest man without pretence,He stands supreme to teach the powerAnd brilliancy of common-sense.Wallace Bruce.
Serene and calm in peril's hour,An honest man without pretence,He stands supreme to teach the powerAnd brilliancy of common-sense.
Serene and calm in peril's hour,
An honest man without pretence,
He stands supreme to teach the power
And brilliancy of common-sense.
Wallace Bruce.
Wallace Bruce.
Notice of the cessation of hostilities was proclaimed to the army April 19, 1783. It was received with great rejoicings by the troops at Newburgh, and under Washington's order, was the occasion of an appropriate celebration. In the evening, signal beacon lights proclaimed the joyous news to the surrounding country. Thirteen cannon came pealing up from Fort Putnam, which were followed by afeu-de-joierolling along the lines. The mountain sides resounded and echoed like tremendous peals of thunder, and the flashing from thousands of fire-arms, in the darkness of the evening, was like unto vivid flashes of lightning from the clouds. From this time furloughs were freely granted to soldiers who wished to return to their homes, and when the army was finally disbanded those absent were discharged from service without being required to return. That portion of the army, which remained at Newburgh on guard duty, after the removal of the main body to West Point in June, were participants here in the closing scenes of the disbandment, when, on the morning of November 3, 1783, "the proclamation of Congress and the farewell orders of Washington were read, and the last word of command given." From Monell's "Handbook of Washington's Headquarters" we also quote a general description of the house and its appearance when occupied by the commander-in-chief. "Washington's family consisted of himself, his wife, and his aid-de-camp, Major Tench Tilghman. The large room, which is entered from the piazza on the east, known as 'the room with seven doors and one window,' was used as the dining and sitting-room. The northeast room was Washington's bedroom and the one adjoining it on the left was occupied by him as a private office. The family room was that in the southeast; the kitchen was the southwest room; the parlor the northwest room. Between[page 108]the latter and the former was the hall and staircase and the storeroom, so called for having been used by Colonel Hasbrouck and subsequently by his widow as a store. The parlor was mainly reserved for Mrs. Washington and her guests. A Mrs. Hamilton, whose name frequently appears in Washington's account book, was his housekeeper, and in the early part of the war made a reputation for her zeal in his service, which Thacher makes note of and Washington acknowledges in his reference to an exchange of salt. There was little room for the accommodation of guests, but it is presumed that the chambers were reserved for that purpose. Washington's guests, however, were mainly connected with the army and had quarters elsewhere. Even Lafayette had rooms at DeGrove's Hotel when a visitor at headquarters.
"The building is now substantially in the condition it was during Washington's occupation of it. The same massive timbers span the ceiling; the old fire-place with its wide-open chimney is ready for the huge back-logs of yore; the seven doors are in their places; the rays of the morning sun still stream through the one window; no alteration in form has been made in the old piazza—the adornments on the walls, if such the ancient hostess had, have alone been changed for souvenirs of the heroes of the nation's independence. In presence of these surroundings, it requires but little effort of the imagination to restore the departed guests. Forgetting not that this was Washington's private residence, rather than a place for the transaction of public business, we may, in the old sitting-room respread the long oaken table, listen to the blessing invoked on the morning meal, hear the cracking of joints, and the mingled hum of conversation. The meal dispensed, Mrs. Washington retires to appear at her flower beds or in her parlor to receive her morning calls. Colfax, the captain of the life-guard, enters to receive the orders of the day—perhaps a horse and guard for Washington to visit New Windsor, or a barge for Fishkill[page 109]or West Point, is required; or it may be Washington remains at home and at his writing desk conducts his correspondence, or dictates orders for army movements. The old arm-chair, sitting in the corner yonder, is still ready for its former occupant.
"The dinner hour of five o'clock approaches; the guests of the day have already arrived. Steuben, the iron drill-master and German soldier of fortune, converses with Mrs. Washington. He had reduced the simple marksmen of Bunker Hill to the discipline of the armies of Europe and tested their efficiency in the din of battle. He has leisure now, and scarcely knows how to find employment for his active mind. He is telling his hostess, in broken German-English, of the whale (it proved to be an eel) he had caught in the river. Hear his hostess laugh! And that is the voice of Lafayette, relating perhaps his adventures in escaping from France, or his mishap in attempting to attend Mrs. Knox's last party. Wayne, of Stony Point; Gates, of Saratoga; Clinton, the Irish-blooded Governor of New York, and their compatriots—we may place them all at times beside ourPater Patriaein this old room, and hear amid the mingled hum his voice declare: 'Happy, thrice happy, shall they be pronounced hereafter, who have contributed anything, who have performed the meanest office in erecting this stupendous fabric of Freedom and Empire on the broad basis of independency; who have assisted in protecting the rights of human nature, and in establishing an asylum for the poor and oppressed of all nations and religions.'
"In France, some fifty years after the Revolution, Marbois reproduced, as an entertainment for Lafayette, then an old man, this old sitting-room and its table scene. From his elegant saloon he conducted his guests, among whom were several Americans, to the room which he had prepared. There was a large open fire-place, and plain oaken floors; the ceiling was supported with large beams and whitewashed; there were the seven small-sized doors[page 110]and one window with heavy sash and small panes of glass. The furniture was plain and unlike any then in use. Down the centre of the room was an oaken table covered with dishes of meat and vegetables, decanters and bottles of wine, and silver mugs and small wine glasses. The whole had something the appearance of a Dutch kitchen. While the guests were looking around in surprise at this strange procedure, the host, addressing himself to them said, 'Do you know where we now are?' Lafayette looked around, and, as if awakening from a dream, he exclaimed, 'Ah! the seven doors and one window, and the silver camp goblets such as the Marshals of France used in my youth. We are at Washington's Headquarters on the Hudson fifty years ago.'"
One window looking toward the east;Seven doors wide-open every side;That room revered proclaims at leastAn invitation free and wide.Wallace Bruce.
One window looking toward the east;Seven doors wide-open every side;That room revered proclaims at leastAn invitation free and wide.
One window looking toward the east;
Seven doors wide-open every side;
That room revered proclaims at least
An invitation free and wide.
Wallace Bruce.
Wallace Bruce.
The goodness which characterizes Washington is feltby all around him, but the confidence he inspires isnever familiar; it springs from a profound esteem forhis virtues and a great opinion of his talents.Marquis de Chastellux.
The goodness which characterizes Washington is feltby all around him, but the confidence he inspires isnever familiar; it springs from a profound esteem forhis virtues and a great opinion of his talents.
The goodness which characterizes Washington is felt
by all around him, but the confidence he inspires is
never familiar; it springs from a profound esteem for
his virtues and a great opinion of his talents.
Marquis de Chastellux.
Marquis de Chastellux.
From these headquarters Washington promulgated hismemorable order for the cessation of hostilities andrecalled the fact that its date, April 18th, was the anniversaryof the battles of Lexington and Concord.Thomas F. Bayard.
From these headquarters Washington promulgated hismemorable order for the cessation of hostilities andrecalled the fact that its date, April 18th, was the anniversaryof the battles of Lexington and Concord.
From these headquarters Washington promulgated his
memorable order for the cessation of hostilities and
recalled the fact that its date, April 18th, was the anniversary
of the battles of Lexington and Concord.
Thomas F. Bayard.
Thomas F. Bayard.
The Hasbrouck family returned to their old home, made historic for all time, after the disbandment of the army and remained until it became the property of the State. On July 4, 1850, the place was formally dedicated by Major-General Winfield Scott, dedicatory address delivered by John J. Monell, an ode by Mary E. Monell, and an oration by Hon. John W. Edmunds. The centennial of the disbanding of the army was observed here October 18, 1883. After the noonday procession of 10,000 men in line, three miles in length, with governors and representative people from almost every State, 150,000 people, "ten acres" square, gathered in the historic grounds. Senator Bayard, of Delaware, was chairman of the day. Hon. William M. Evarts was the orator, and modestly speaking in the third person, Wallace Bruce, author of this handbook, was the poet. No one there gathered can ever forget that afternoon of glorious sunlight or the noble pageant. The great mountains, which had so frequently been the bulwark of liberty and a place of refuge for our fathers, were all aglow with beauty, as if, like Horeb's bush, they too would open their lips in praise and thanksgiving. One of the closing sentences of Senator Evarts' address is unsurpassed in modern or ancient[page 111]eloquence: "These rolling years have shown growth, forever growth, and strength, increasing strength, and wealth and numbers ever expanding, while intelligence, freedom, art, culture and religion have pervaded and ennobled all this material greatness. Wide, however, as is our land and vast our population to-day, these are not the limits to the name, the fame, the power of the life and character of Washington. If it could be imagined that this nation, rent by disastrous feuds, broken in its unity, should ever present the miserable spectacle of the undefiled garments of his fame parted among his countrymen, while for the seamless vesture of his virtue they cast lots—if this unutterable shame, if this immeasurable crime, should overtake this land and this people, be sure that no spot in the wide world is inhospitable to his glory, and no people in it but rejoices in the influence of his power and his virtue." In his lofty sentences the old heroes seemed to pass again in review before us, and the daily life of that heroic band, when Congress sat inactive and careless of its needs until the camp rose in mutiny, happily checked, however, by the great commander in a single sentence. It will be remembered that Washington began to read his manuscript without glasses, but was compelled to stop, and, as he adjusted them to his eyes, he said, "You see, gentlemen, that I have not only grown gray, but blind, in your service." It is needless to say that the "anonymously called" meeting was not held.
He quelled the half-paid mutineers,And bound them closer to the cause;His presence turned their wrath to tears,Their muttered threats to loud applause.The great Republic had its birthThat hour beneath the army's wing,Whose leader taught by native worthThe man is grander than the king.
He quelled the half-paid mutineers,And bound them closer to the cause;His presence turned their wrath to tears,Their muttered threats to loud applause.
He quelled the half-paid mutineers,
And bound them closer to the cause;
His presence turned their wrath to tears,
Their muttered threats to loud applause.
The great Republic had its birthThat hour beneath the army's wing,Whose leader taught by native worthThe man is grander than the king.
The great Republic had its birth
That hour beneath the army's wing,
Whose leader taught by native worth
The man is grander than the king.
We hear the anthem once again,—"No king but God!"—to guide our way,Like that of old—"Good-will to men"—Unto the shrine where freedom lay.Wallace Bruce.
We hear the anthem once again,—"No king but God!"—to guide our way,Like that of old—"Good-will to men"—Unto the shrine where freedom lay.
We hear the anthem once again,—
"No king but God!"—to guide our way,
Like that of old—"Good-will to men"—
Unto the shrine where freedom lay.
Wallace Bruce.
Wallace Bruce.
Near at hand, and also plainly seen from the river, is the new Tower of Victory, fifty-three feet high, costing[page 112]$67,000. It contains a life-size statue of Washington, in the act of sheathing his sword, with bronze figures representing the rifle, the artillery, the line officer and dragoon service of our country, with a bronze tablet on the east wall bearing the inscription: "This monument was erected under the authority of the Congress of the United States, and of the State of New York, in commemoration of the disbandment, under proclamation of the Continental Congress, of October 18, 1783, of the armies, by whose patriotic and military virtue, our national independence and sovereignty were established." The Belvidere, reached by a spiral staircase, is capable of holding one hundred persons, and the view therefrom takes in a wide extent of panoramic beauty. Newburgh has not only reason to be proud of her historical landmarks and her beautiful situation, but also of her commercial prosperity. In olden times, it was a great centre for all the western and southwestern district, farmers and lumbermen coming from long distances in the interior. Soon after the Revolution she was made a village, when there were only two others in the State. Before the days of the Erie canal, this was the shortest route to Lake Erie, and was made by stageviaIthaca. With increasing facilities of railway communication, she has also easily held her own against all commercial rivals. TheWest Shore Railroad, theErie Railway, theNew York Centraland theNew York and New Englandacross the river, and several Hudson river steamers, make her peculiarly central. The city is favored with beautiful driveways, amid charming country seats. The New Paltz road passes the site where General Wayne had his headquarters, also, the "Balm of Gilead tree," which gave the name of Balmville to the suburban locality. Another road affords a glimpse of the "Vale of Avoca," named after the well-known glen in Ireland, of which Tom Moore so sweetly sung. Here, some say, a treacherous attempt was made on the life of Washington, but it is not generally[page 113]credited by critical historians. As the steamer leaves the dock, and we look back upon the factories and commercial houses along the water front, crowned by noble streets of residence, with adjoining plateau, sweeping back in a vast semi-circle as a beautiful framework to the wide bay, we do not wonder that Hendrick Hudson established a prophetic record by writing "a very pleasant place to build a town."
WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS, NEWBURGHWASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS, NEWBURGH
Washington! Brave without temerity; laborious withoutambition; generous without prodigality; noble withoutpride; virtuous without severity.Marquis de Chastellux.
Washington! Brave without temerity; laborious withoutambition; generous without prodigality; noble withoutpride; virtuous without severity.
Washington! Brave without temerity; laborious without
ambition; generous without prodigality; noble without
pride; virtuous without severity.
Marquis de Chastellux.
Marquis de Chastellux.
Fishkill-on-the-Hudson.—Directly opposite Newburgh, one mile north of Denning's Point (formerly the eastern dock of the Newburgh ferry), rises on a pleasant slope, the newer Fishkill of this region. A little more than a mile from the landing, is the manufacturing village of Matteawan, connected by an electric railroad. Old Fishkill, or Fishkill Village, is about four miles inland, charmingly located, under the slope of the Fishkill range. This was once the largest village in Dutchess county, and was chosen for its secure position above the Highlands, as the place to which "should be removed the treasury and archives of the State, also, as the spot for holding the subsequent sessions of the Provincial Conventions," after they were driven from New York. A historical sketch of the town, by T. Van Wyck Brinkerhoff, presents many things of interest. "Its history, anterior to 1682, belongs to the red men of the valley, and, more than any other spot, this was the home of their priests. Here they performed their incantations and administered at their altars." According to Broadhead, "It would seem that the neighboring Indians esteemed the peltries from Fishkill as charmed by the incantations of the aboriginal enchanters who lived along its banks, and the beautiful scenery in which those ancient priests of the Highlands dwelt, is thus invested with new poetic associations." Dunlap speaks of them as "occupying the Highlands, called by them Kittatenny Mountains. Their principal settlement, designated Wiccapee, was situated in the vicinity of Anthony's Nose. Here too, lived the Wappingers, a[page 114]war-like and brave tribe, extending themselves along the Matteawan, along the Wappingers Kill and tributaries, along the Hudson, and to the northward, across the river into Ulster County. These and other tribes to the south, west and north, were parts of and tributaries to the great Iroquois confederation—the marvel for all time to come of a system of government so wise and politic, and for men so eloquent and daring. The Wappingers took part in the Dutch and Indian wars of 1643 and 1663, led on by their war chiefs, Wapperonk and Aepjen. A few Indian names are still remaining, and a few traces of their history still left standing. The name Matteawan is Indian, signifying 'Good Beaver Grounds,' and the name Wappinger still speaks of those who once owned the soil along the Hudson. Their name for the stream was Mawanassigh, or Mawenawasigh. Wiccapee and Shenondoah are also Indian names of places in Fishkill Hook, and East Fishkill, and Apoquague, still surviving as the name of a country postoffice, was the Indian style of what is now called Silver Lake, signifying 'round pond.' In Fishkill Hook until quite recently, there were traces of their burial grounds, and many apple and pear trees are still left standing, set there by the hands of the red man before the country had been occupied by Europeans."
For here amid these hills he once kept court—He who his country's eagle taught to soarAnd fired those stars which shine o'er every shore.Charles Fenno Hoffman.
For here amid these hills he once kept court—He who his country's eagle taught to soarAnd fired those stars which shine o'er every shore.
For here amid these hills he once kept court—
He who his country's eagle taught to soar
And fired those stars which shine o'er every shore.
Charles Fenno Hoffman.
Charles Fenno Hoffman.
To return to Brinkerhoff, "The first purchase of land in the county of Dutchess, was made in the town of Fishkill. On the 8th day of February, 1682, a license was given by Thomas Dongan, Commander-in-chief of the Province of New York, to Francis Rombout and Gulian Ver Planck, to purchase a tract of land from the Indians. Under this license, they bought, on the 8th day of August, 1683, of the Wappinger Indians, all their right, title and interest to a certain large tract of land, afterward known as the Rombout precinct. Gulian Ver Planck died before the English patent was issued by Governor Dongan; Stephanus Van Cortland was then joined in it with Rombout, and Jacobus Kipp substituted as the representative[page 115]of the children of Gulian Ver Planck. On the 17th day of October, 1685, letters patent, under the broad seal of the Province of New York, were granted by King James the Second, and the parties to whom these letters patent were granted, became from that time the undisputed proprietors of the soil. There were 76,000 acres of these lands lying in Fishkill, and other towns taken from the patent, and 9,000 acres lying in the limits of the town of Poughkeepsie. Besides paying the natives, as a further consideration for the privilege of their license, they were to pay the commander-in-chief, Thomas Dongan, six bushels of good and merchantable winter wheat every year." In the Book of Patents, at Albany, vol. 5, page 72, will be found the deed, of special interest to the historian and antiquarian.
It was a dainty day, and it grew more dainty towardsits close as the lights and shadows stretched athwartour Highland landscape.Susan Warner.
It was a dainty day, and it grew more dainty towardsits close as the lights and shadows stretched athwartour Highland landscape.
It was a dainty day, and it grew more dainty towards
its close as the lights and shadows stretched athwart
our Highland landscape.
Susan Warner.
Susan Warner.
"After the evacuation of New York, in the fall of 1776, and the immediate loss of the seaboard, with Long Island and part of New Jersey, Fishkill was at once crowded with refugees, as they were then called, who sought, by banishing themselves from their homes on Long Island and New York, to escape imprisonment and find safety here. The interior army route to Boston passed through this place. Army stores, workshops, ammunition, etc., were established and deposited here." The Marquis De Chastellux, in his travels in North America, says: "This town, in which there are not more than fifty houses in the space of two miles, has been long the principal depot of the American army. It is there they have placed their magazines, their hospitals, their workshops, etc., but all of these form a town in themselves, composed of handsome large barracks, built in the woods at the foot of the mountains: for the American army, like the Romans in many respects, have hardly any other winter quarters than wooden towns, or barricaded camps, which may be compared to the 'hiemalia' of the Romans." These barracks were situated on the level plateau between the residence of Mr. Cotheal and the mountains. Portions of these[page 116]grounds were no doubt then covered with timber. Guarding the approach from the south, stockades and fortifications were erected on commanding positions, and regularly manned by detachments from the camp.
Unto him and them all owingPeace as stable as our hills,Plenty like yon river flowingTo the sea from thousand rills.Mary E. Monell.
Unto him and them all owingPeace as stable as our hills,Plenty like yon river flowingTo the sea from thousand rills.
Unto him and them all owing
Peace as stable as our hills,
Plenty like yon river flowing
To the sea from thousand rills.
Mary E. Monell.
Mary E. Monell.
"Upon one of these hills, rising out of this mountain pass-way, very distinct lines of earthworks are yet apparent. Near the residence of Mr. Sidney E. Van Wyck, by the large black-walnut trees, and east of the road near the base of the mountain, was the soldiers' burial ground. Many a poor patriot soldier's bones lie mouldering there; and if we did but know how many, we would be startled at the number, for this almost unknown and unnoticed burial ground holds not a few, but hundreds of those who gave their lives for the cause of American independence. Some fifteen years ago, an old lady who had lived near the village until after she had grown to womanhood, told the writer that after the battle of White Plains she went with her father through the streets of Fishkill, and in places between the Dutch and Episcopal churches, the dead were piled up like cord-wood. Those who died from wounds in battle or from sickness in hospital were buried there. Many of these were State militiamen, and it seems no more than just that the State should make an appropriation to erect a suitable monument over this spot. Rather than thus remain for another century, if a rough granite boulder were rolled down from the mountain side and inscribed: 'To the unknown and unnumbered dead of the American Revolution,' that rough unhewn stone would tell to the stranger and the passer-by, more to the praise and fame of our native town than any of us shall be able to add to it by works of our own; for it is doubtful whether any spot in the State has as many of the buried dead of the Revolution as this quiet burial yard in our old town!" Here also on June 2, 1883, was observed "The Fishkill Centennial," and few of our centennials have been celebrated amid objects of greater revolutionary interest. Near at hand, to quote[page 117]from the official report of the proceedings, is "Denning's Point where Washington frequently, while waiting, tied his horses under those magnificent 'Washington oaks,' as he passed backward and forward from New Windsor and Newburgh to Fishkill. Near by is the Verplanck House, Baron Steuben's old headquarters. On Spy Hill and Continental Hill troops were quartered. At Matteawan Sackett lived, and there is the Teller House built by Madame Brett, where officers frequently resorted, and there Yates dwelt when he presided over the legislative body while it held its sessions in Fishkill, that had much to do with forming our first State Constitution. Baron Steuben was for a while in the old Scofield House at Glenham. In Fishkill are those renowned old churches where legislative sittings were held, which were also used as hospitals for the sick, and one of which is otherwise known as being the place where Enoch Crosby, the spy, was imprisoned, and from which he escaped. Near at hand the Wharton House (Van Wyck House), forever associated with him, and made famous by Cooper's 'Spy.' In the Brinckerhoff House above, Lafayette was dangerously ill with a fever, and there, at Swartwoutville, Washington was often a visitor. Whenever Washington was at Fishkill he made Colonel Brinckerhoff's his headquarters. He occupied the bedroom back of the parlor, which remains the same 'excepting a door that opens into the hall, which has been cut through.' It is an old-fashioned house built of stone, with the date 1738 on one of its gables." With the story of Fishkill we close the largest page relating to our revolutionary heroes, and leave behind us the Old Beacon Mountains which forever sentinel and proclaim their glory.
No prouder sentinel of glory than the old BeaconMountain whose watch-fire guarded the valley and spokeits rallying message to the Catskills and Berkshires andthe very foothills of the Green Mountains.Wallace Bruce.
No prouder sentinel of glory than the old BeaconMountain whose watch-fire guarded the valley and spokeits rallying message to the Catskills and Berkshires andthe very foothills of the Green Mountains.
No prouder sentinel of glory than the old Beacon
Mountain whose watch-fire guarded the valley and spoke
its rallying message to the Catskills and Berkshires and
the very foothills of the Green Mountains.
Wallace Bruce.
Wallace Bruce.
The sun touched mountains in some places were ofa bright orange and the shadows between them deepneutral tint or blue. And the river apparently hadstopped running to reflect.Susan Warner.
The sun touched mountains in some places were ofa bright orange and the shadows between them deepneutral tint or blue. And the river apparently hadstopped running to reflect.
The sun touched mountains in some places were of
a bright orange and the shadows between them deep
neutral tint or blue. And the river apparently had
stopped running to reflect.
Susan Warner.
Susan Warner.
Low Point, or Carthage, is a small village on the east bank, about four miles north of Fishkill. It was called by the early inhabitants Low Point, as New Hamburgh, two miles north, was called High Point. Opposite Carthage is Roseton, once known as Middlehope, and above this we[page 118]see the residence of Bancroft Davis and the Armstrong Mansion. We now behold on the west bank a large flat rock, covered with cedars, recently marked by a lighthouse, the—
Duyvel's Dans Kammer.—Here Hendrick Hudson, in his voyage up the river, witnessed an Indian pow-wow—the first recorded fireworks in a country which has since delighted in rockets and pyrotechnic displays. Here, too, in later years, tradition relates the sad fate of a wedding party. It seems that a Mr. Hans Hansen and a Miss Kathrina Van Voorman, with a few friends, were returning from Albany, and disregarding the old Indian prophecy, were all slain:—
"For none that visit the Indian's denReturn again to the haunts of men.The knife is their doom! O sad is their lot!Beware, beware of the blood-stained spot!"
"For none that visit the Indian's denReturn again to the haunts of men.The knife is their doom! O sad is their lot!Beware, beware of the blood-stained spot!"
"For none that visit the Indian's den
Return again to the haunts of men.
The knife is their doom! O sad is their lot!
Beware, beware of the blood-stained spot!"
Some years ago this spot was also searched for the buried treasures of Captain Kidd, and we know of one river pilot who still dreams semi-yearly of there finding countless chests of gold.
Two miles above, on the east side, we pass New Hamburgh, at the mouth ofWappingers Creek. The name Wappinger had its origin from Wabun, east, and Acki, land. This tribe, a sub-tribe of the Mahicans, held the east bank of the river, from Manhattan to Roeliffe Jansen's Creek, which empties into the Hudson near Livingston, a few miles south of Catskill Station on theHudson River Railroad. Passing Hampton Point we see Marlborough, the head-centre of a large fruit industry, delightfully located in the sheltered pass of the Maunekill. On the east bank will be noticed several fine residences: "Uplands," "High Cliff," "Cedars," and "Netherwood." Milton is now at hand on the west bank, with its cosy landing andWest Shore Railroadstation. This pleasant village was one of the loved spots of J. G.[page 119]Holland, and the home of Mary Hallock Foote, until a modern "Hiawatha" took our Hudson "Minnehaha" to far away western mountains.
The tulip tree majestic stirsFar down the water's marge beside,And now awake the nearer firs,And toss their ample branches wide.Henry T. Tuckerman.
The tulip tree majestic stirsFar down the water's marge beside,And now awake the nearer firs,And toss their ample branches wide.
The tulip tree majestic stirs
Far down the water's marge beside,
And now awake the nearer firs,
And toss their ample branches wide.
Henry T. Tuckerman.
Henry T. Tuckerman.
Springbrook, opposite Milton, a place of historic interest, near the river bank, was bought by Theophilus Anthony before the Revolution. Some of the links of the famous chain in the Highlands were forged here in 1777. When the British ships ascended the river the family fled to the woods, all but an old colored servant woman who wisely furnished the soldiers a good dinner and got thereby their good will to save the house. The old Flour Mill, however, was burned which stood on the same site as the present Springbrook Mill. Theophilus Anthony's only daughter married Thomas Gill after the Revolution, and from that time the property has been in the Gill family. Few places in the Hudson Valley have such ancient and continuous family history.
Locust Grove, with square central tower and open outlook, residence of the late Prof. S. F. B. Morse, inventor of the telegraph, is seen on the west bank; also the "Lookout," once known as Mine Hill, now a part of Poughkeepsie cemetery, with charming driveway to the wooded point where the visitor can see from his carriage one of the finest views of the Hudson. The completion of this drive is largely due to the enterprise of the late Mr. George Corlies, who did much to make Poughkeepsie beautiful. The view from this "Lookout" takes in the river for ten miles to the south, and reaches on the north to the Catskills. In a ramble with Mr. Corlies over Lookout Point, he told the writer that it was originally the purpose of Matthew Vassar to erect a monument on Pollopel's Island to Hendrick Hudson. Mr. Corlies suggested this point as the most commanding site. Mr. Vassar visited it, and concluded to place the monument here. He published an article in the Poughkeepsie papers to this effect, and, meeting Mr. Corlies one week afterwards, said, "Not one person in the city of Poughkeepsie[page 120]has referred to my monument. I have decided to build a college for women, where they can learn what is useful, practical and sensible." It is interesting to note the fountain-idea of the first woman's college in the world, as it took form and shape in the mind of its founder.
POUGHKEEPSIE BRIDGEPOUGHKEEPSIE BRIDGE
TROPHY POINT, WEST POINTTROPHY POINT, WEST POINT
OLD CRO' NEST AND STORM KINGOLD CRO' NEST AND STORM KING
POLLIPEL'S ISLAND AND MOUNT TAURUSPOLLIPEL'S ISLAND AND MOUNT TAURUS
THE CATSKILLS FROM THE HUDSONTHE CATSKILLS FROM THE HUDSON
NORTHERN GATE OF HIGHLANDSNORTHERN GATE OF HIGHLANDS
And from their leaguering legions thick and vastThe galling hail-shot in fierce volley falls,While quick, from cloud to cloud, darts o'er the levinThe flash that fires the batteries of heaven!Knickerbocker Magazine.
And from their leaguering legions thick and vastThe galling hail-shot in fierce volley falls,While quick, from cloud to cloud, darts o'er the levinThe flash that fires the batteries of heaven!Knickerbocker Magazine.
And from their leaguering legions thick and vast
The galling hail-shot in fierce volley falls,
While quick, from cloud to cloud, darts o'er the levin
The flash that fires the batteries of heaven!
Knickerbocker Magazine.
Knickerbocker Magazine.
MORNING VIEW AT BLUE POINT.MORNING VIEW AT BLUE POINT.
We now see Blue Point, on the west bank; and, in every direction, enjoy the finest views. The scenery seems to stand, in character, between the sublimity of the Highlands and the tranquil, dreamy repose of the Tappan Zee. It is said that under the shadow of these hills was the favorite anchorage of—
The Storm Ship, one of our oldest and most reliable legends. The story runs somewhat as follows: Years ago, when New York was a village—a mere cluster of houses on the point now known as the Battery—when the Bowery was the farm of Peter Stuyvesant, and the Old Dutch Church on Nassau Street (which also long since disappeared), was considered the country—when communication with the old world was semi-yearly instead of semi-weekly or daily—say two hundred years ago—the whole town one evening was put into great commotion by the fact that a ship was coming up the bay.