Antiquities of this City—The Hôtel du Midi—Articles ofMerchandise—History of the Maison Carrée—Work of Poldo d'Albenas—TheBuilding described—Origin of it—Now used as a Museum—Monument toMarcus Attius—Cardinal Alberoni—Barbarous Project—Removal ofAntiquities—The Amphitheatre described—Charles Martel—ExcellentPrecaution in Roman Theatres—Inscription—Officious Cicerone—Gate ofAugustus—La Tour-Magne—Excavations—Fine Fountain—Temple ofDiana—Brevity of Human Life, 1.
Beaucaire—Wooden Houses—Castle of King René—Church of St.Martha—Fabulous Monster—The Hôtel described—The Hostess—AntiqueFurniture—Plentiful Dinner—Scrutiny—Visit to the Amphitheatre—ThePrefect of Arles—Subterranean Excavations—Ancient Church of St.Anne—Altar to the Goddess of Good—Venus of Arles—GraniteObelisk—Primitive Manners—A Liberal Landlady, 14.
Situation of the Town—Antiquities—The Triumphal Arch described—Male and Female Figures—The Mausoleum—Bassi-relievi of Battles, Infantry, etc.—Figure of a Winged Female—Latin Inscription—Variously explained—Interpretation of Monsieur P. Malosse—Respect for the Departed—On The Triumphal Arch and Mausoleum at St.-Remy, 21.
TheFête Dieu—Procession through the Streets—Ecclesiastical and Military Pomp—Decorations in the Streets—Effect produced on the Mind by Sacred Music—Excitements to Religious Fervour—theMiserere, 30.
Fatiguing Journey—Landau Accident—The Hôtel de la Terrasse, in theRue de Rivoli—Six Years' Absence—The Duc and Duchesse de Guiche—Joyof Meeting—Fashion at Paris—Visit to Herhault's Temple ofFashion—Mademoiselle La Touche—Extravagant Charges—Caution toHusbands—A Word, also, to Wives—Visit to Madame Craufurd—Herprepossessing Appearance—House-hunting—Residence of the MaréchalLobau—Review in the Champ-de-Mars—SplendidCoup d'oeil—TheMarchioness de Loulé—Restrictions at Court—Accident to the Comte deBourmont—Alarm of the Ladies—Charles the Tenth, the Dauphin, and theDauphine—Melancholy Physiognomy of Charles the First—The Duchessed'Angoulème—Her Trials and Endurance—French Love of Country—TheDuchesse de Berri—Dinner at the Duchesse de Guiche's—WilliamLock—The Comte de l'Espérance de l'Aigle—His high breeding—TheOpera—Débutof Taglioni—Her Poetical Style of Dancing—The Duc deCazes—French and English Manners contrasted—Attentions to the FairSex in France—The Comtesses de Bellegarde—Character of the Duc deGramont—Lady Barbara Craufurd—Count Valeski—Anger of the MaréchalLobau—Defect in French Houses—TheMuette de Portici—Noblet—An oldDanseuse—Gaiety at Tivoli—Similarity in the Exterior of ParisianLadies—A Quadrille Party—Demi-toilette—Late Tea-Party—LuxuriousChair—Delightful House in the Rue de Bourbon—Its costlyDecorations—Its Interior described—The Princesse de la Moskowa—SadInterview—Maréchal Ney, 32.
Custom of letting out Furniture—The Prince and PrincesseCastelcicala—Lady Hawarden—Lady Combermere—Tone of Society atParis—Attentions paid by Young Men to Old Ladies—Flirtations atParis—Ceremonious Decorum—Comic Charles de Mornay—ParisianUpholsterers—Rich Furniture—Lord Yarmouth—Elegant Suite ofApartments—Charles Mills—Warm Affections between Relatives in France,56.
Domestic Arrangements—Changes in Young People—PleasantRecollections—Lord Lilford—The Marquis and Marquise Zamperi—ComteAlexander de Laborde—The Marquis de Mornay—Mode of passing theTime—Evening Visits in France—Dinner-party—The Duc Dalberg—The Ducde Mouchy—Party to Montmorency—Rousseau's Hermitage—Sensibility, aCharacteristic of Genius—Solitude—Letter of Rousseau toVoltaire—Church, of Montmorency—Baths at Enghien—The Comtesse deGand—Colonel E. Lygon—The Marquis de Dreux-Brezé—Contrast betweenhim and the Duc de Talleyrand—The Baron and Baroness de Ruysch—Mr.Douglas Kinnaird—Sir Francis Burdett—Colonel Leicester Stanhope—TheMarquis Palavicini—Charms of Italian Women—Lords Darnley andCharlemont—Mr. Young, the Tragedian—Lord Lansdowne—Estimate of hisCharacter—Sir Robert Peel—Respect for the Memory of Sir WilliamDrummond—Lady Drummond—"Vivian Grey"—Mr. Standish—Intermarriagesbetween the French and the English, 64.
Charles Kemble—His Daughter's Tragedy of "Francis theFirst"—Recollections of John Kemble—The Opera—Count Ory—Sir A.Barnard—Secret of Happiness—Visit to Mademoiselle Mars—Her Residencedescribed—Memorial of her Theatrical Career—The Duchesse de laForce—Madame Grassini—Anecdote of her—Visit to Orsay—ItsSituation—The Princesse de Croy—Hamlet of Palaiseau—Drama ofLa PieVoteuse—Family of the Duc de Guiche—The Vaudeville Théâtre—Scribe'sAvant, Pendant, el Après—Its Dangerous Tendency—FrenchAmbition—Parisian Shopkeepers—Their Officious Conduct, 78.
Lord and Lady Stuart de Rothesay—French Politeness—Mr. D—— and Mr.T—— —Study of Shakespeare—Attractions of Mrs. T—— —LadyCharlotte Llndsay and the Misses Berry—Sir William Gell—Mr. and Mrs.Hare—Female Amiability—Shopping—Hints on Female Dress—Brilliancy ofFrench Conversation—Mr. J. Strangways—A severe Trial—ThePlague-spot—Miraculous Escape—Dinner given by Comte A. deMaussion—Goethe'sFaust—Character of "Margaret"—The witty Mr.M—— —Lord Byron—French Quickness of Apprehension—SeptHeures—Character of Charlotte Corday—Degenerate Taste of theParisians—Hasty Conclusions, 91.
The celebrated Dr. P—— —Society of Medical Men—Dr.Guthrie—Requisites for a Surgeon—Celebrity and Merit—The Road toFortune, as related by Dr. P—— —Successful Stratagem—FanciedIllness—Superfluity ofEmbonpoint—Mode of Treatment—AnotherPatient—The Doctor à-la-mode—Mr. P. C. Scarlett—Lord Erskine—Mr.H.B—— —Visit to the Théâtre Italien—Madame Malibran's"Desdemona"—Defect in her Singing—The Princesse Pauline Borghese—TheFamily of Napoleon—Particulars of the Duchesse d'Abrantes—TheLuxembourg Palace and Gardens—A Loving Couple—Holiness ofMarriage—Story of the Old Bachelor and his Crafty Housekeeper, 105.
Groups of Children in the Gardens of the Luxembourg—Joyous Sounds—The Nurses—The Child of Noble Birth and that of theParvenu—Joys of Childhood—Contrast between Youth and Age—Meeting with Dr. P—— —Arrival of General and the Comtesse d'Orsay—Attractions of the latter—Remark of Napoleon—Affection in Domestic Circles in France—The Duchesse de Guiche—The Comtesse d'Orsay—The Duc de Gramont—Madame Craufurd—Theci-devant Jeune Homme—Potter, the actor—Sir Francis Burdett—Advantages of French Society—Topics of Conversation—Pedigrees of Horses—French Politeness—Deferential Treatment of the Fair Sex—Domestic Duties of the Duchesse do Guiche—Influence of Courts—Visit to the Théâtre des Nouveautés—La Maison du Rempart—Inflammable Exhibitions—Mr. Cuthbert and M. Charles Lafitte—advance of Civilization—Lady Combermere—Mr. Charles Grant (now Lord Glenelg)—Curiosity Shops on the Quai Voltaire—Madame de Sévigné—Objects that have belonged to celebrated People—A Hint to the Ladies—Pincushion of Madame de Maintenon—The Marquis de Rambouillet—Molière'sPrécieuses Ridicules—Pangs of Jealousy—Julie d'Angennes—Brilliant Coterie, 120.
The Marquise de Pouleprie—-The celebrated Madame du Barry—Anecdote—Mademoiselle Mars inValerie—Her admirable Style of Acting—Playing to the Galleries—Exclusive Nature of Parisian Society—French Conversation—Quickness of Perception—Walk in the Gardens of the Tuileries—Comparative Beauty of French and English Ladies—Graceful Walking of the Former—Difference of Etiquette—Well-bred Englishmen—Flight of Time—Colonel Caradoc, son of Lord Howden—New Year's Day—Custom of making Presents—Gallery of the Louvre—The Statues therein—Works of Art—Chefs-d'oeuvreof the Old Masters—Consolation for Men of Genius—Nicolas Poussin, 134.
Visit to the Hotel d'Orsay—Sad Change in it—Mr. Millingon, theAntiquary—Liberality of Comte d'Orsay—A Fanciful Notion—GeneralOr-nano—Unhappy Marriages accounted for—La Gazza Ladra—Mallbran's"Ninetta"—The Calamities of Authors—Mr. D'Israeli—The Princesse deTalleyrand—Her Person described—Her Dress and Manners—Amusing Storytold by the Abbé Denon—Unexpected Arrival—Yes and No, by LordNormanby—Lady Dysart-Comte Valeski—Influence of AgreeableManners—Effects of opposite ones—Injudicious Friends—A CandidAdmission—Lord —— —Love of Contradiction—Remarks on the Novel ofPelham—Misery of receiving stupid Books—Malibran inLaCenerentola—French Customs—Proofs d'Amilié—Wedding Dresses, 146.
Comte Charles de Mornay—His Wit and Good Nature—Mademoiselle Mars, inHenri III—Some Account of the Play—Love and Ambition—Curious Incident—Romantic Notions—Passion of Love—Wordsworth's Poems—Admiration of his Writings—Religion displayed by the Upper Classes—The Duc de Bordeaux—Piety of the Great—Popularity of the Duchesse de Berri—Anecdote of her—Walter Savage Landor—HisImaginary Conversations—Sir William Gell—The Duc d'Orléans—His Enviable Situation—The Duc de Chartres—Genius of Shelley—Beauty of his Writings—His Wild Theories—William Spencer the Poet—Melancholy Change in Him—French Prejudices towards the English—Example of it—Accomplishments of French Ladies—Talent for Conversation, 169.
Consequences of the Revolution in France—Corruption of theRegency—Sarcastic Verses of St.-Evremond—Reign of Louis theFifteenth—Lessons taught by Affliction—Dangers of Anarchy—TheHauteNoblessepreviously to the Revolution—Want of Affection betweenParents and Children—Superficial Judgments erroneous—Power ofFashion—The Novel ofDevereux—Infrequency of Elopements inFrance—Les Dames de B—— —Their Attachment to each other—OldMaids—Servitude in England and France contrasted—French Masters andMistresses—Treatment of Servants—Avoidance of Politics—FrenchDiscontent—Charles the Tenth—National Prosperity—The Duchesse deGuiche and her two Sons—Position of the Duc de Guiche, 171.
Approach of Spring—Fogs on the Seine—The Jardins desTuileries—Impurity of the London Atmosphere—Exhilaration of theSpirits—Anecdote—The Catholic Question—Lord Rosslyn—The Duke ofWellington—Merits of a Cook—Amour-propreof a ParisianCook—English Sauce—A Gourmand and an Epicure—The Duc deTalleyrand—A perfect Dinner—The Marquis de L—— —House-huntingagain—Letter from Lord B—— —The Hôtel Monaco—College ofSt.-Barbe—The Duchesse de Guiche and her Sons—A Mother'sTriumph—Spirit of Emulation—The Quarter called the Pays Latin—AnAuthor's Dress—Aspect of the Women—A Life of Study—Amable Tastu'sPoems—Effect of Living much in Society—Mr. W. Spencer—HisAbstraction—Disadvantages of Civilization—Confession of Madame de—— —A Hint to Comte —— on visiting London—Suspicion of Poverty—ADiner Maigre—Luxurious Bishops, 182.
Romantic Feelings of Lady C—— —True Love—DisagreeableNeighbours—Credulity—Mademoiselle Delphine Gay—French Novels—FrenchCritics—Eligible Mansions—Comforts of Seclusion—Genius ofL.E.L.—The Comtesse d'O—— —A Brilliant Talker—Letter fromMrs. Hare—Extreme Hospitality—Longchamps—Exhibition ofSpring Fashions—French Beauties—Animated Scene—Promenade atLongchamps—Extravagance of Mademoiselle Duthé—Modern Morals—CinqMars, by Comte Alfred de Vigny—His Style—Strictures on Mankind—Thebest Philosophy—Speech of Lord Grey—The Caterpillar—A VoraciousAppetite—A Refined Lady—La Chronique du temps de CharlesIX, by Prosper Merimée—Estimation of Sir Walter Scott—JulesJanin—Injudicious Praise—Renewal of Youth—Self-Deception—GreyHairs, 194.
Victor Hugo'sDernier Jour d'un Condamné—Value of CommonSense—Conscience—Cunning—Curiosity Shops on the Quaid'Orsay—Expensive and Tasteful Gifts—An Avaricious Vender—AMoral—Anonymous Scribbler—Weakness of Mind—Poems of Mrs. Hemans—TheMinds of Genius—Poetesses of England—Arrival of Lord D—— —TheCatholic Question carried—Irish prejudices—Letters from AbsentFriends—Sir William Gell—The Archbishop of Tarentum—Discoveries atPompeii—Novel ofThe Disowned—Advantages to be derived from thePerusal of Works of Fiction—Politics—Charles the Tenthunpopular—Charles the First—The House of Bourbon—"Uneasy lies theHead that wears a Crown"—The Duc de T—— —Mr. Hook'sSayings andDoings—Visit to the Hotel Monaco, 207.
A new Resilience—Consolation in Sickness—House in the Rue deMatignon—Its Interior described—The Library—Drive in the Bois deBoulogne—Atmospheric Influence—The Rocher de Cancale—A _Diner deRestaurant—_A Gay Sight—Good Taste in Dress innate inFrenchwomen—Well-appointed Carriages—Soldier-like Air of the MalePopulation—Observation of the Emperor Napoleon—Characteristics of theBritish Soldier—National Anthem—Changes in the Journey ofLife—Captain Marryat'sNaval Officer—Performance ofLa Tourd'Auvergne—Letter of Carnot—Distinction awarded to Merit byNapoleon—National Glory—Effect of Enthusiasm—Villa of the Duchessede Montmorency—Residences on the Banks of the Thames—Bagatelle, theSeat of the Duc de Bordeaux—Earthly Happiness—DomesticAlterations—High Rents at Paris—Terrace and Aviary—Unsettled Slate,219.
Unexpected Events—Mr. and Mrs. Mathews—Their son, Charles—Evening Party—Recitations and Songs—Pleasant Recollections—Visit to theJardin des Plantes—Amusing Incident—Humorous Imitations—Intellectual Powers—Recourse to Reading—The Comte Montalembert—His Grief on the Death of his Daughter—Restraint imposed by Society—Fate of the Unfortunate—The Prince and Princess Soutzo—Particulars relative to them—Reverse of Fortune—Mr. Rogers and Mr. Luttrell—Memory of Lord Byron—His Lampoon on Rogers—Love of Sarcasm—Conversation of Mr. Luttrell—Lord John Russell—His Qualifications—Monsieur Thiers—Monsieur Mignet—His Vigorous Writings—Friendship between Thiers and Mignet—The Baron Cailleux—Visit to the Louvre—Taste for the Fine Arts—The Marquis and Marquise de B—— —Clever People—Lord Allen and Sir Andrew Barnard—The Culinary Art, 230.
Mr. Rogers and Mr. Luttrell—Society of Refined Englishmen—MercurialTemperament of the French—Opposite Characters—M. Erard's Collectionof Pictures—AntiqueBijouterie—Lord Pembroke—The Duke ofHamilton—Dr. Parr—Reproof of the Duc de Blacas—Monsieur Mignet—Hisgreat Knowledge—A Clever Man—Influence of Conscience—Abilities ofLord Palmerston—Lord Castlereagh—His Uncle, the late Marquess ofLondonderry—Dangers of Fashion—Mr. Cutlar Fergusson—The Baron andBaroness de Ruysch—A Mind at Ease—Dreary Weather—Sad State of theStreets—Fogs—Fascination of Madame Grassini—Sledge Party—Sledge ofthe Duc de Guiche—That of Comte d'Orsay—Picturesque NightScene—Revival of an Old Fashion—The Prince Polignac—His AmiableManners—His Difficult Position, 242.
Effects of Indisposition—Instability of Earthly Blessings—CaptainWilliam Anson (Brother of Lord Anson)—His varied Acquirements—Thepretty Madame de la H—— —Prince Paul Lieven—Captain Cadogan (nowEarl Cadogan)—Life at Sea—Visit to the Duchesse de Guiche—HerWarmth and Gentleness of Manner—Political Crisis—The Conquest ofAlgiers—General Excelmans—Rash Measure—Charles the Tenth—HisMinistry unpopular—Prosperity of France—Extorted Concessions—Dissolution of the Chambers—The Public Press—Controversy—Commotionbefore the Hôtel of the Ministre des Finances—The Ministersinsulted—Counsel of the Duc de Guiche—Serious Aspect ofAffairs—Crowds in the Streets—Household of Charles theTenth—Noblesse of his Court—Confusion and Alarm—RiotousConduct—Firing on the People—Formation of Barricades—Absence of theCivil Authorities—Nocturnal Impressions—Comtes d'Orsay andValeski—Scene in the Place de la Bourse—The Corps-de-Garde set onFire—Darkness in the Rue Richelleu.—Further disturbances—ContinuedDepredations—Breach between the People and the Sovereign—Anecdote ofMonsieur Salvandy, 225.
The Dead paraded through the Streets to inflame the Populace—The Shops closed—The Duc de Raguse censured—His Supineness—Devotion of the Duc de Guiche to his Sovereign—The Military Dispositions defective—Flag of the Bourbons—Troops in Want of Refreshment— Destruction of the Royal Emblems—Disgusting Exhibition—Rumours of Fresh Disasters—Opinion of Sir Roger de Coverley—Revolutions the Carnivals of History—Observation of Voltaire—Doctors Pasquier and de Guise—Report of Fire arms—Paucity of Provisions—Female Courage—Domestic Entrenchment—Further Hostilities—Conflicting Rumours—The Sublime and the Ridiculous—Juvenal Intrepidity—Fatality—The Soldiers and the populace—Visit to Madame Craufurd—Barricade in the Rue Verte—Approaching Mob—Safe Arrival in the Rue d'Anjou—Terror of Madame Craufurd—Her Anxiety for her Relatives—Composure of the Marquis d'Aligre—Riotous Assembly in the Rue Verte—Their Conduct towards the Author—Dangerous Symbol of Aristocracy—Arrival at Home, 282.
Familiarity of French Servants—Power of the People—MisguidedMen—Further Rumours—Who are the People?—An Intruder—A RevolutionaryHero—The Tuileries and the Louvre taken—Sir Thomas Lawrence'sPortrait of the Dauphin—The Terrible and the Comic—Trophies ofVictory—The Palace of the Archbishop of Paris sacked—Concessions ofCharles the Tenth—The Duchesse de Berri—Lord Stuart deRothesay—Noble Conduct—The Duchesse de Guiche—Her tryingSituation—The Provisional Government—The Tri-coloured Flag—Meetingof the Deputies—Bitter Feeling towards the Royal Family Bravery of thePopulace—Lafayette and his followers—Scene in the Street—"The GoodCause"—The wealthy M. Laffitte—Valuable Collections atParis—Courageous Conduct of the Duchesse de Guiche—HerChampions—Attack on the Hôtel of the Duc de Guiche—Comte Alfredd'Orsay—Painful Position, 272.
Sanctuary of Home—Madame C—— —Intoxicated Revolutionist—His Good-Nature—the Proprietor of a Wine-Shop—Politeness of all Classes in France—Barracks in the Rue Verte—Difficulty of obtaining Admission—Agitation of Madame C—— —Comte Valeski—The Barracks attacked and taken—Dangerous Route—Impassable Gulf between the Sovereign and the People—The Royal Cause hopeless—A Fine Youth killed—Reflections on his Death—Number of Persons killed during the last Three Days—Details of a Battle—Rumour respecting the Dauphin—Interment of the Page—Fatality attending the Bourbons—Absence of the Dauphine—Revolt of the Troops—The Duchesse de Guiche at St.-Germain—Her noble Bearing—The Duc de Gramont—The Château du Val, the Residence of the Princesse de Poix—The Fugitive Duchess—Popularity of Lafayette—The duc d'Orléans named Lieut.-General of France—Order restored—Abdication of Charles the Tenth—Renewed Excitement—Clamour against the King—A Fickle People—Wicked Rumours—The King quits Rambouillet—School of Adversity—Desertion by Friends—Route to Cherbourg, 294.
Rumour relative to the Son of Napoleon—Unsettled State of Affairs—Conflicting Rumours—The Duke of Orleans—Charms of a Crown—Aspect of the Champs-Elysées—Unsought popularity—Comte d'Orsay—Scene of Destruction—Shattered Trees—Pride of the People—Re-action after Excitement—Anecdote—The Jeweller's Wife—Passion of the French—Playing at Soldiers—Enthusiasm of theGarde Nationale—Return to Paris of the Duchesse de Guiche—Confidence of the Duc—Courage of the Duchesse—General Gèrard—The Duke of Orleans accepts the Crown—Popularity, an unstable Possession—Abilities of Louis-Philippe—Expectations formed of him—Person of Lafayette—Appearance in Public of the new Sovereign—The Queen—Her painful Position—The King of the French in the Place Vendôme—Monsieur Mignet—His varied Acquirements—The celebrated General Peppé—Strange Infatuation—Charles the Tenth embarks at Cherbourg—Devotion to the exiled Bourbons—The English Popular at Paris—Mr. Hamilton, Secretary of the Embassy—Brilliant conversation of M. Thiers—The Prince and Princesse Soutzo—Mr. Poulter—Lesson of Resignation—Departure for England—Leave-taking—Adieu to Paris, 294.