Chapter 26

FIG. 208. BATATASEDULIS, showing Tuber.

B. edulis(edible).* Sweet Potato.fl., corolla 1in. long, white outside and purple inside; peduncles equal in length to the petioles, or exceeding them, three to four-flowered.l.variable, usually angular, also lobed. Stem creeping, rarely climbing. East Indies, 1797. See Fig. 208.B. glaucifolia(milky-green-leaved).fl., corolla small, purplish, with an inflated tube, and ovate, acute segments; peduncles two-flowered, length of leaves. May.l.sagittate, truncate behind, on long petioles. Mexico, 1732.B. heterophylla(various-leaved).fl.blue; peduncles solitary, axillary, bearing each three sessile flowers. July.l.quinately palmate; lobes or leaflets ovate-spathulate, acute. Plant very villous. Cuba, 1817.B. paniculata(panicled).*fl.large, purple; peduncles much exceeding the petioles, many-flowered, dichotomously and corymbosely panicled. Junel.palmate, five to seven-cleft; lobes ovate-lanceolate or elliptic, bluntish, rarely sub-acuminated. India, 1799. (G. C. n. s., x., 341.)B. senegalensis(Senegalese).fl.white or purplish, large; peduncles three-flowered. June.l.quinately palmate; lobes ovate, obtuse, middle one the largest. Stem white, tubercular. Guinea, 1823.B. venosa(veiny).fl.purple; peduncles umbellate, with an ovate-cordate, solitary leaf at the base of each pedicel. July.l.digitately quinate; leaflets petiolate, acuminated, quite entire. France, 1820.

B. glaucifolia(milky-green-leaved).fl., corolla small, purplish, with an inflated tube, and ovate, acute segments; peduncles two-flowered, length of leaves. May.l.sagittate, truncate behind, on long petioles. Mexico, 1732.

B. heterophylla(various-leaved).fl.blue; peduncles solitary, axillary, bearing each three sessile flowers. July.l.quinately palmate; lobes or leaflets ovate-spathulate, acute. Plant very villous. Cuba, 1817.

B. paniculata(panicled).*fl.large, purple; peduncles much exceeding the petioles, many-flowered, dichotomously and corymbosely panicled. Junel.palmate, five to seven-cleft; lobes ovate-lanceolate or elliptic, bluntish, rarely sub-acuminated. India, 1799. (G. C. n. s., x., 341.)

B. senegalensis(Senegalese).fl.white or purplish, large; peduncles three-flowered. June.l.quinately palmate; lobes ovate, obtuse, middle one the largest. Stem white, tubercular. Guinea, 1823.

B. venosa(veiny).fl.purple; peduncles umbellate, with an ovate-cordate, solitary leaf at the base of each pedicel. July.l.digitately quinate; leaflets petiolate, acuminated, quite entire. France, 1820.

BATEMANNIA(named after Mr. J. Bateman, a collector and cultivator of orchids, and author of a "Monograph of Odontoglossum," and other works on orchidaceous plants). ORD.Orchidaceæ. A small and easily-grown genus of dwarf, compact-growing epiphytes, closely allied toMaxillaria, but differing from that genus in having the anther-bed with a membranous border. They may be grown in pots, in a compost of peat and moss, or on blocks of wood with moss. They require an intermediate house and plenty of water in the growing season. Propagated by divisions and offsets. They have generally a free-flowering habit; but some of the species are not so ornamental as many other orchids.

B. armillata(braceleted).fl.green, white. 1875. (R. X. O. 316.)B. Burtii(Burt's).fl.red-brown, yellow base, 3in. across; lip white, tipped chocolate. Autumn.l.elliptic-oblong, or ligulate, sub-distichous. Plant bulbless. Costa Rica, 1872. (B. M. 6003.)B. Colleyi(Colley's).fl.on a pendulous raceme, rising from the base of the pseudo-bulbs; sepals and petals brownish-purple within, green without; lip white. Autumn.h.6in. Demerara, 1834. (B. R. 1714.)B. grandiflora(large-flowered).*fl., flower-spike coming up with the young growth, bearing three or four flowers, of curious structure; sepals and petals olive-green, striped with reddish-brown; lip white, with reddish-purple streaks, orange or yellow towards the base. Pseudo-bulbs ovate, 3in. or 4in. long, and bearing two large, broad, leathery leaves. New Grenada, 1866. (B. M. 5567.)B. Wallisii(Wallis').*fl., sepals light greenish-yellow outside, olive-green to chestnut-brown inside, with some yellow at the base; petals with scarlet stripes at the very base, but otherwise coloured like the sepals; lip blade greenish, with a brownish hue at the anterior part; peduncles slender, corymbose.h.1ft. Columbia, 1876.

B. armillata(braceleted).fl.green, white. 1875. (R. X. O. 316.)

B. Burtii(Burt's).fl.red-brown, yellow base, 3in. across; lip white, tipped chocolate. Autumn.l.elliptic-oblong, or ligulate, sub-distichous. Plant bulbless. Costa Rica, 1872. (B. M. 6003.)

B. Colleyi(Colley's).fl.on a pendulous raceme, rising from the base of the pseudo-bulbs; sepals and petals brownish-purple within, green without; lip white. Autumn.h.6in. Demerara, 1834. (B. R. 1714.)

B. grandiflora(large-flowered).*fl., flower-spike coming up with the young growth, bearing three or four flowers, of curious structure; sepals and petals olive-green, striped with reddish-brown; lip white, with reddish-purple streaks, orange or yellow towards the base. Pseudo-bulbs ovate, 3in. or 4in. long, and bearing two large, broad, leathery leaves. New Grenada, 1866. (B. M. 5567.)

B. Wallisii(Wallis').*fl., sepals light greenish-yellow outside, olive-green to chestnut-brown inside, with some yellow at the base; petals with scarlet stripes at the very base, but otherwise coloured like the sepals; lip blade greenish, with a brownish hue at the anterior part; peduncles slender, corymbose.h.1ft. Columbia, 1876.

BATSCHIA.SeeLithospermum.

BAUERA(named after Francis and Ferdinand Bauer, German botanical draughtsmen). ORD.Saxifragaceæ. Small shrubs, natives of Australia, New Zealand, &c. Flowers axillary, solitary, pedunculate. Leaves six in a whorl, approximating by threes, and therefore, as it were, opposite and ternate, exstipulate. Easily cultivated in a compost of sandy loam and peat. Propagated by cuttings, placed in sandy soil, under a glass. These very pretty little greenhouse evergreens flower nearly the whole year through.

B. humilis(low).fl., corolla red, one-half smaller thanB. rubioides, and the plant is altogether much smaller. July to December.l.oblong, crenated.h.1ft. New South Wales, 1804. (L. B. C. 1197.)B. rubiæfolia(madder-leaved). Synonymous withB. rubioides.B. rubioides(madder-like).*fl.pale red, or pink.l.lanceolate, crenated.h.1ft. to 2ft. New South Wales, 1793. SYN.B. rubiæfolia. (A. B. R. 198.)

B. humilis(low).fl., corolla red, one-half smaller thanB. rubioides, and the plant is altogether much smaller. July to December.l.oblong, crenated.h.1ft. New South Wales, 1804. (L. B. C. 1197.)

B. rubiæfolia(madder-leaved). Synonymous withB. rubioides.

B. rubioides(madder-like).*fl.pale red, or pink.l.lanceolate, crenated.h.1ft. to 2ft. New South Wales, 1793. SYN.B. rubiæfolia. (A. B. R. 198.)

BAUHINIA(in honour of John and Caspar Bauhin, two famous botanists of the sixteenth century). Mountain Ebony. ORD.Leguminosæ. Very showy stove evergreen shrubs. Flowers racemose; petals five, spreading, oblong, rather unequal, upper one usually distant from the rest. Leaves two-lobed, constantly composed of two jointed leaflets at the top of the petiole, sometimes nearly free, but usually joined together, more or less, and with an awn in the recess. They succeed well in a mixture of sand, loam, and peat, requiring good drainage and moderately firm potting. Propagated by cuttings, which should be taken when the wood is neither very ripe nor very young; the leaves must be dressed off, and the cuttings planted in sand, under a glass, in moist heat. Although glorious objects in the tropics, few of the species flower under our comparatively sunless skies; those which hitherto have succeeded well in Britain are marked with an asterisk.

B. acuminata(taper-pointed-leaved).fl.pure white; petals broadly ovate, hardly stipitate. June.l.rather cordate at the base, smoothish; leaflets connected beyond the middle, ovate, acuminated, parallel, four-nerved.h.5ft. to 6ft. Malabar, 1808.B. aurita(eared).fl.white; petals ovate, on short stipes. August.l.glabrous, cordate at the base; leaflets connected the fourth part of their length, oblong-lanceolate, nearly parallel, six to eight-nerved.h.4ft. to 6ft. Jamaica, 1756.B. corymbosa(corymbose).*fl.in loose racemes; petals pinkish, regular, crenulated at the edge. Summer.l., leaflets semi-oval, obtuse, parallel, connected nearly to the middle, three-nerved, cordate at the base, the nerves on the under surface, as well as the petioles, branches, and calyces, clothed with rufous villi. Shrubby climber. India, 1818. (G. C. 1881, xvi., p. 204.)B. inermis(unarmed).fl.white; petals linear; racemes terminal, leafless, simple.l.ovate at the base, ferruginous beneath; leaflets oblong, acute, four-nerved, parallel, connected a little beyond the middle.h.6ft. to 8ft. Mexico, 1810.B. multinerva(many-nerved).fl.snow-white; petals linear. Legume 8in. to 12in. long.l.elliptic, rounded at the base, membranous, shining above, rather pilose beneath; nerves ferruginous; leaflets semi-ovate, obtuse, approximate, five-nerved; free.h.20ft. Caracas, 1817.B. natalensis(Natal).*fl.white, 1½in. across, opposite the leaves. September.l.small, alternate, of two obliquely-oblong rounded leaflets. Natal, 1870. (B. M. 6086.)B. petiolata(long-petioled).fl.white, 3in. long, in terminal clusters. Autumn.l.stalked, ovate-acuminate, five-nerved, glabrous. Columbia, 1852. SYN.Casparia speciosa. (B. M. 6277.)B. pubescens(downy).fl.white, large, much crowded; petals obovate; peduncles three to four-flowered.l.rather cordate at the base, pubescent beneath and on the petioles; leaflets connected beyond the middle, oval, obtuse, four-nerved, nearly parallel.h.4ft. to 6ft. Jamaica, 1823.B. purpurea(purple).fl., petals red, one of them streaked with white on the claw, lanceolate, acute. Legume linear, 1ft. long.l.cordate at the base, coriaceous, ultimately glabrous; leaflets connected much above the middle, broadly ovate, obtuse, four-nerved; free.h.6ft. India, 1778.B. racemosa(racemose).fl.white; petals obovate, obtuse; raceme somewhat corymbose.l.cordate at the base, clothed with silky villi beneath, as well as on the peduncles, petioles, branches, calyces, and petals; leaflets broadly ovate, obtuse, connected to the middle, five-nerved. India, 1790. Shrubby climber. (B. F. S. 182.)B. tomentosa(tomentose).fl., petals pale yellow, with a red spot at the claw, obovate, obtuse; peduncles one to three-flowered.l.ovate or roundish at the base; under surface villous, as well as the petioles, branches, stipules, peduncles, bracts, and calyces; leaflets connected beyond the middle, oval, obtuse, three to four-nerved.h.6ft. to 12ft. Ceylon, 1808.B. variegata(variegated).*fl.red, marked with white, and yellow at the base, in loose terminal racemes; petals ovate, nearly sessile. June.l.cordate at the base, glabrous; leaflets broadly-ovate, obtuse, five-nerved, connected beyond the middle; free.h.20ft. Malabar, 1690.B. v. chinensis(Chinese).fl., petals lilac, with one purple spot at the base of each, acute.l.rounded at the base. China.

B. aurita(eared).fl.white; petals ovate, on short stipes. August.l.glabrous, cordate at the base; leaflets connected the fourth part of their length, oblong-lanceolate, nearly parallel, six to eight-nerved.h.4ft. to 6ft. Jamaica, 1756.

B. corymbosa(corymbose).*fl.in loose racemes; petals pinkish, regular, crenulated at the edge. Summer.l., leaflets semi-oval, obtuse, parallel, connected nearly to the middle, three-nerved, cordate at the base, the nerves on the under surface, as well as the petioles, branches, and calyces, clothed with rufous villi. Shrubby climber. India, 1818. (G. C. 1881, xvi., p. 204.)

B. inermis(unarmed).fl.white; petals linear; racemes terminal, leafless, simple.l.ovate at the base, ferruginous beneath; leaflets oblong, acute, four-nerved, parallel, connected a little beyond the middle.h.6ft. to 8ft. Mexico, 1810.

B. multinerva(many-nerved).fl.snow-white; petals linear. Legume 8in. to 12in. long.l.elliptic, rounded at the base, membranous, shining above, rather pilose beneath; nerves ferruginous; leaflets semi-ovate, obtuse, approximate, five-nerved; free.h.20ft. Caracas, 1817.

B. natalensis(Natal).*fl.white, 1½in. across, opposite the leaves. September.l.small, alternate, of two obliquely-oblong rounded leaflets. Natal, 1870. (B. M. 6086.)

B. petiolata(long-petioled).fl.white, 3in. long, in terminal clusters. Autumn.l.stalked, ovate-acuminate, five-nerved, glabrous. Columbia, 1852. SYN.Casparia speciosa. (B. M. 6277.)

B. pubescens(downy).fl.white, large, much crowded; petals obovate; peduncles three to four-flowered.l.rather cordate at the base, pubescent beneath and on the petioles; leaflets connected beyond the middle, oval, obtuse, four-nerved, nearly parallel.h.4ft. to 6ft. Jamaica, 1823.

B. purpurea(purple).fl., petals red, one of them streaked with white on the claw, lanceolate, acute. Legume linear, 1ft. long.l.cordate at the base, coriaceous, ultimately glabrous; leaflets connected much above the middle, broadly ovate, obtuse, four-nerved; free.h.6ft. India, 1778.

B. racemosa(racemose).fl.white; petals obovate, obtuse; raceme somewhat corymbose.l.cordate at the base, clothed with silky villi beneath, as well as on the peduncles, petioles, branches, calyces, and petals; leaflets broadly ovate, obtuse, connected to the middle, five-nerved. India, 1790. Shrubby climber. (B. F. S. 182.)

B. tomentosa(tomentose).fl., petals pale yellow, with a red spot at the claw, obovate, obtuse; peduncles one to three-flowered.l.ovate or roundish at the base; under surface villous, as well as the petioles, branches, stipules, peduncles, bracts, and calyces; leaflets connected beyond the middle, oval, obtuse, three to four-nerved.h.6ft. to 12ft. Ceylon, 1808.

B. variegata(variegated).*fl.red, marked with white, and yellow at the base, in loose terminal racemes; petals ovate, nearly sessile. June.l.cordate at the base, glabrous; leaflets broadly-ovate, obtuse, five-nerved, connected beyond the middle; free.h.20ft. Malabar, 1690.

B. v. chinensis(Chinese).fl., petals lilac, with one purple spot at the base of each, acute.l.rounded at the base. China.

BAWD-MONEY.SeeMeum.

BAY-TREE.SeeLaurus nobilis.

BEAK.Anything resembling the beak of a bird, as inAconitum; the point which ends the helmet or upper sepal; hard, sharp points.

BEAM TREE.SeePyrus Aria.

BEAN BEETLE(Bruchus granarius). This insect, by depositing its eggs in the seeds of Beans and Peas, causes a great amount of injury. It is about an eighth of an inch long, black, with brown hairs and white spots; tip of the tail prolonged, downy; front pair of legs reddish. The most effectual means of prevention is to destroy, when sowing, all seeds infested by it; and this may be detected by the skin of the seed being unusually transparent above the tunnel for exit. Imported seeds of Broad Beans are often much infested. "Dipping the Beans or Peas in boiling water for one minute is stated to kill the grub inside; but, as dipping for four minutes generally destroys the germinating power, the experiment is much too hazardous for general use", (Ormerod).

BEAN CAPER.SeeZygophyllum.

BEAN FLY.SeeAphidesandBlack Fly.

BEANS.There are three sections of these in cultivation for garden purposes, viz.: The Dwarf or French Bean; the Climbing, or Scarlet Runner; and the ordinary Broad Bean.See alsoFabaandPhaseolus.

FIG. 209. BROADBEANPLANTINFLOWER(FABAVULGARIS).

Soil.All Beans like a somewhat loamy soil, which, to secure good crops, must be deeply worked and heavily manured. The Kidney Beans, dwarf and tall, however, do not care for so heavy a soil as the Broad and Long-podded kinds; and this fact should be borne in mind when selecting their respective situations. The term Kidney is generally applied to both the Dwarf or French and the Climbing or Scarlet Runner.

FIG. 210. PODSOFBROADBEAN.

FIG. 211. BROADBEANSEED.

BROADANDLONG-PODDED(Faba vulgaris).Cultivation: As early as possible in the autumn, deeply trench a piece of ground, and work in a heavy dressing of manure, leaving the surface of the soil in ridges, to become well aërated by winter frosts. Where desired, a piece of ground on a warm, protected border, can also be deeply dug in November, and a few rows of Mazagans sown to stand the winter. When up, draw a ridge of soil on either side the rows, and in frosty weather strew a few handfuls of bracken, or other light, dry litter, over them. Not much is, however, gained by this winter sowing. Early in January, level the ridges with a fork, working the whole of the surface soil over, and towards the end of the month, make the first sowing, choosing Mazagan and other early varieties. Mark out two rows, 9in. asunder, leave a space of 30in., then another two rows, and so on throughout the piece sown. If preferred, they may be sown in single rows at intervals of 1½ft. The drills should be about 3in. deep, and the seed from 7in. to 9in. apart in the rows. Where the double-row system is adopted, arrange the seed for the plants to come alternately. In March, get in the main sowing of the Broad and later Long-podded kinds, in the manner already described; another sowing for late use may be made in April. When the plants are about 6in. high, earth up as recommended for those sown in the autumn. As soon as a good crop is set, pinch out the tops of the plants, to assist the maturation of the Beans, and prevent the attacks of the fly. Figs. 209, 210, and 211 are excellent representations of the flowering plant, pods, and seed of the Broad Bean.

Sorts.For early use: Early Mazagan, Long-pod, Marshall's Early Prolific, and Seville Long-pod. For late use: Carter's Mammoth Long-pod, and Broad Windsor (white variety). These are all distinct and good varieties.

FIG. 212. FRUITINGPLANT OFDWARF ORFRENCHBEAN(PHASEOLUS VULGARIS).

DWARFORFRENCHKIDNEYBEANS(Phaseolus vulgaris).Cultivation: This class (see Fig. 212) also requires a rich and deeply trenched rather light soil. A very important point is to get the ground into a good condition, by frequently forking it over; and, as the seeds are not sown till the beginning of May, there is plenty of time for the work. The finer the soil is, and the more it is aërated, the better will it suit the crop. From the beginning of May till the end of June, at intervals, draw out drills about 2ft. apart, and 3in. deep, and in these place the Beans tolerably thick, as generally they are not all certain to grow. As soon as up, carefully thin them, and slightly earth up to prevent the wind blowing them about. They should not, however, be earthed higher than the seed leaves, or they will probably rot off in wet weather. Keep free from weeds, and maintain a sharp look out for slugs. In dry weather, water occasionally, giving good drenchings, and not mere sprinklings, which do more harm than good. A good mulching of half-rotted manure is very beneficial, as it prevents evaporation to a great extent, besides affording some amount of nourishment to the plants. Great care must be taken to pick off the Beans as soon as large enough for use, or they will exhaust the plants. Where seeds are needed, a number of plants should be left for the purpose, and these should be some of the best, to prevent deterioration, or loss of the true variety.

Forcing.French Beans require more heat than can be obtained in either a frame or an ordinary greenhouse; and, although easy enough to grow in a structure suited to their requirements, yet, if such does not exist, they are almost sure to fail. A good heat, from 60deg. to 70deg., with abundance of moisture, is necessary for successful results. Plenty of light is also most essential. A position such as that of a cucumber house is generally a suitable one; but the plants must not be placed under the cucumbers. Successional sowings in pots or boxes must be made, from the end of August till March, to keep up a supply. For soil, use good maiden loam, with a little well-rotted manure added. Use 8in. pots, sowing five or six beans in each. The first sowing should be placed in a frame and kept well watered, bringing into heat in October; but the subsequent sowings should be placed directly in the house. Keep the soil moist, and the plants free from aphides and other insect pests, and give air at every favourable opportunity. The plants should be as near the light as possible, and kept from falling about by tying or placing small pieces of Birch wood round them. In dull weather, it will be found that the blooms will not set so freely as when the sun shines brightly; therefore, every care should be taken to secure both heat and ventilation when sunshine prevails. When the pots get full of roots, and the plants are bearing fruit freely, a little liquid manure is of great assistance; at no time must the plants get dry enough to flag. Allow plenty of room for the full development of foliage, and maintain a minimum temperature of 60deg., with plenty of moisture.

Sorts.These are very numerous, among the best being Black Negro, Canadian Wonder, Canterbury, Fulmer's Forcing, Golden Dun, Newington Wonder, Osborn's Early Forcing, Sion House, and Sir Joseph Paxton.

RUNNERSORCLIMBINGKIDNEYBEANS(Phaseolus multiflorus).Cultivation: Being tall growers, these need a greater space than the Dwarf French varieties, and they also require support. Rich soil is indispensable for them, and liberal supplies of water on light soils and in dry weather. A good overhead syringing from time to time is also advantageous. Trench and heavily manure a piece of ground in autumn, leaving it in ridges for the winter. In March, level the ridges down, and well work the ground, to render it friable and in good condition. The plants being extremely tender, it is not safe to sow before the end of April or the first week in May. It is preferable to sow in rows, which should be from 6ft. to 12ft. apart, and crop the ground between with other vegetables. Earth up and stake them as soon as ready, to prevent injury from rough wind. A good plan, which may be adopted to obtain early produce, is to raise the seeds in boxes in a cold frame, getting them ready for planting out in the middle of May. Plant at the same distances, and treat afterwards as recommended for those sown out of doors.

If preferred, they can be grown on the ground without stakes. Under this treatment, they must have their tops pinched off when about 18in. high, continuing this pinching from time to time as necessary. If this plan is adopted, the rows need only be 3ft. apart, the groundnot being otherwise cropped. In dry seasons and on light soils, there is an advantage attached to this method, namely, that those on sticks are liable to injury from drought, while the foliage of those pinched back keeps the soil moist underneath.

FIG. 213. RUNNER ORCLIMBINGKIDNEYBEAN(PHASEOLUS MULTIFLORUS).

Runner Beans may also be planted to cover arches or fences, and in various places of a like description. See Fig. 213.

Sorts.Common Scarlet Runner, Champion, Painted Lady, and Giant White. The first two are those generally grown.

BEAN-TREE.SeeCeratonia Siliqua.

BEARBERRY, andBEAR'S GRAPE.SeeArctostaphylos Uva-ursi.

BEARD-TONGUE.SeePentstemon.

BEARS BREECH.SeeAcanthus.

BEAR'S FOOT.SeeHelleborus fœtidus.

BEATONIA.SeeTigridia.

BEAUCARNEA(a commemorative name). ORD.Liliaceæ. A small genus of curious greenhouse plants, natives of Mexico. Leaves narrow, gracefully depending. Stems slender, and woody, with a peculiar swollen, somewhat napiform base. Mr. B. S. Williams recommends that these plants be potted in rich fibrous loam and sand, with ample drainage, and, during the growing season, liberally supplied with water. Propagated by cuttings, when obtainable; but chiefly by seeds, which have to be imported from their native country. Beaucarneas are principally grown for the beauty of their foliage, and are grotesque, graceful, and extremely curious in habit and form.

B. glauca(grey).*l.pendent, glaucous, 2ft. to 3ft. long. Stem slender, the swollen base becoming woody with age.B. g. latifolia(broad-leaved) differs from the type only in its stouter and more robust stem and broader leaves.B. longifolia(long-leaved).*l.6ft. to 10ft. long, narrow, pendent, dark green, forming a beautiful vase-like centre.h.10ft. Mexico, 1868. Very distinct. (G. C. 1877, vii., 493.)B. recurvata(recurved-leaved).*l.very long, linear, gracefully pendulous, bright green. Mexico, about 1845. This is an excellent subject for open-air culture during the summer, as well as for the conservatory. SYN.Pincenictitia tuberculata. (G. C. 1870, 1445.)B. r. rubra(red).l.red at base.B. stricta(upright).l.3ft. or more long, less than 1in. broad, very glaucous. Stem stout. Mexico, 1870.

B. glauca(grey).*l.pendent, glaucous, 2ft. to 3ft. long. Stem slender, the swollen base becoming woody with age.

B. g. latifolia(broad-leaved) differs from the type only in its stouter and more robust stem and broader leaves.

B. longifolia(long-leaved).*l.6ft. to 10ft. long, narrow, pendent, dark green, forming a beautiful vase-like centre.h.10ft. Mexico, 1868. Very distinct. (G. C. 1877, vii., 493.)

B. recurvata(recurved-leaved).*l.very long, linear, gracefully pendulous, bright green. Mexico, about 1845. This is an excellent subject for open-air culture during the summer, as well as for the conservatory. SYN.Pincenictitia tuberculata. (G. C. 1870, 1445.)

B. r. rubra(red).l.red at base.

B. stricta(upright).l.3ft. or more long, less than 1in. broad, very glaucous. Stem stout. Mexico, 1870.

BEAUFORTIA(commemorative of Mary, Duchess of Beaufort, a botanical patroness). IncludingSchizopleura. ORD.Myrtaceæ. Elegant free-flowering greenhouse Australian shrubs. Flowers scarlet; calyx with a turbinate tube; stamens in bundles opposite the petals. Leaves sessile, opposite or scattered. Beaufortias require a compost of peat, leaf soil, and loam, lightened, if necessary, by the addition of sand. Cuttings of half-ripened shoots root freely in sandy soil, under a glass, with very little heat.

B. decussata(decussate).fl.scarlet; bundles of stamens on very long claws; filaments radiating. May.l.opposite, decussate, ovate, or oval, many-nerved.h.3ft. to 10ft. New Holland, 1803. (B. M. 1733.)B. purpurea(purple).*fl.purplish-red, in dense globular heads.l.three to five-nerved, erect or spreading, ovate-lanceolate to lanceolate-linear. New Holland.B. sparsa(few-leaved).fl.bright scarlet.l.many-nerved, scattered, ovate-elliptical, obtuse. West Australia. SYN.B. splendens. (P. F. G. xiii., 145.)B. splendens(splendid). Synonymous withB. sparsa.

B. decussata(decussate).fl.scarlet; bundles of stamens on very long claws; filaments radiating. May.l.opposite, decussate, ovate, or oval, many-nerved.h.3ft. to 10ft. New Holland, 1803. (B. M. 1733.)

B. purpurea(purple).*fl.purplish-red, in dense globular heads.l.three to five-nerved, erect or spreading, ovate-lanceolate to lanceolate-linear. New Holland.

B. sparsa(few-leaved).fl.bright scarlet.l.many-nerved, scattered, ovate-elliptical, obtuse. West Australia. SYN.B. splendens. (P. F. G. xiii., 145.)

B. splendens(splendid). Synonymous withB. sparsa.

BEAUMONTIA(in honour of Mrs. Beaumont, formerly of Bretton Hall, Yorkshire). ORD.Apocynaceæ. A very ornamental stove twiner, remarkable for its handsome flowers. It succeeds best when planted out in the borders of a temperate house, in rich lumpy loam and peat. Propagated by cuttings, placed in sand, with bottom heat.

B. grandiflora(large-flowered).*fl., corolla large, white, greenish outside near the base, and dark throat, with a short tube, and a large campanulate five-lobed limb; corymbs axillary and terminal, many-flowered. June.l.opposite, broad, oblong-ovate, with a little point, tapering towards the base, smooth and shining above, but rather downy beneath; young leaves and branches rusty. Chittagong and Sylhet, 1820. (B. M. 3213.)

BED.A term usually applied to pieces of ground laid out in gardens for sowing small seeds, or for the isolation and better protection of small collections of plants in the reserve ground. The oblong is the best shape for this purpose, about 4ft. or 5ft. wide, somewhat raised, and having a narrow path on each side, so that the workman may attend to the plants or seeds without having to tread on the bed. Any one part of a flower-garden design, cut out in grass, or otherwise formed, is also generally termed a Bed. When required to be planted for effect, as in this case, the Bed should be proportionate in size to the plants that are to be put in it, always planting the highest in the centre and gradually sloping, with other sizes, to the edges, which should be the lowest. Circular Beds are best with one centre plant; and oblong or other shapes should have the height of the centre plants carried nearly the whole length, not, however, placing them in too formal a manner.

BEDDING-IN.A method of seed-sowing, now almost obsolete, and chiefly employed in nurseries. "In this method, the ground being dug and formed by alleys into Beds, 4ft. or 5ft. wide, each alley being a spade's width or more between Bed and Bed, and the earth being drawn off the top of the Bed with a rake or spade, ½in. or 1in. deep into the alleys, the seed is then sown all over the surface of the Bed; which being done, the earth in the alleys is immediately cast over the Bed, again covering the seeds the same depth, and the surface is raked smooth" (Johnson). In the case of small seeds, a very light covering is needed, and that only of very fine soil.

BEDDING-OUT.The temporary placing out of doors of greenhouse and other tender plants during the summer months. It is considered by some to be the showiest, most expensive, and most unnatural of any style. The geometrical arrangement of gaudy colours is not at all times satisfactory, and under the most favourable conditionsthe design is rarely retained more than two or three months, say, from July to September. The method is, however, so extensively adopted as to demand due notice in this work. Bedding usually commences in May. An important consideration is the proper preparation of the soil for the reception of the plants. It will be found to materially assist the growth if the soil is well dug over a fortnight before the plants are put in. By this means, it will acquire a certain amount of solidity, a point of great importance with fibrous-rooted plants that are subject to injury from the fine roots not taking a firm hold of the soil. Having decided upon the arrangement of the plants, proceed to work with the planting. With round, oval, or, indeed, almost any shaped bed, begin in the centre and work towards the edge; in borders, commence at the back and finish with the front row. Plant with a trowel, disturbing the balls as little as possible, and when in the holes press the soil moderately firm. After the Bed is finished, give a good soaking of water to settle the soil at the roots. Manure for Flower-beds should always be perfectly rotten, such as that from a spent hotbed. When the plants are thoroughly established, water must only be given if they show signs of distress; and then a good soaking should be applied. A careful hoeing of the surface after planting will be most beneficial, leaving it smooth and tidy. A Dutch hoe will be the best to use. Injudicious use of manure and water will only cause a foliaceous growth. The proper treatment of the various Bedding Plants will be found under their respective headings. For spring decoration, the Beds may be filled with Dutch bulbs, and spring-flowering annuals and perennialsad infinitum; or, after the plants are removed in autumn, the Beds may be filled with evergreens plunged in pots, such as Aucuba, Arbor vitæ, Euonymus, and various little Conifers, which have a bright appearance through the winter, and can be removed at any time. With the relative value, or advisability of adoption, of either or any system of gardening, it scarcely comes within the province of this work to deal. No hard-and-fast rules can be laid down as regards "style," and each individual may follow his own taste and inclination.

FIG. 214. DESIGNFORCARPETBEDDING.

FIG. 215. DESIGNFORCARPETBEDDING.

Carpet Bedding.This mode of gardening, although not so generally employed as it was some few years ago, has many admirers, and small plots, geometrically arranged in multi-coloured beds on lawns, are frequently seen. In our large public parks, the system is largely adopted, and evidently proves very gratifying to the multitudes who visit these places; but probably no system is more unnatural or expensive, as such a large number of plants are necessary in order to produce a desirable effect. The illustrations (Figs. 214 and 215) represent two designs for Carpet Beds. The numbers placed in the various compartments indicate the way the different colours should be arranged, repeats being marked by the same cypher. A very varied and large selection of plants can be used for Carpet Bedding, some of which are quite hardy, such asHerniaria glabraandVeronica repens, two of the best dwarf green plants;Sempervivum californicum,Sedum lydium,S. glaucum,Antennaria tomentosa, &c. These may be planted early in the season, with Golden Feather, and are especially valuable, as they are generally employed to a great extent. Other plants, not quite so hardy, areMentha Pulegium gibraltaricaandEcheveria secunda glauca, both of which are extensively used; while the tenderest subjects are Alternantheras of various kinds,Coleus VerschaffeltiiandMesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum. These latter should not be planted till the first or second week in June. As the plants are usually small, and require to be planted thickly, the work is best accomplished with the fingers, pressing the soil moderately firm. First of all, work out the design, and plant the leading lines; afterwards fill in the "panels."

FIG. 216. DESIGNFORBEDDING.

Sub-Tropical Bedding.This term is applied to the arrangement of tropical plants in Beds or groups outside for the summer months, and if discriminately adopted a very attractive and unique display may be made, depending greatly upon position, and mainly upon the material at command. If a sheltered and partially shady situation isenjoyed, a grand effect may be produced by the grouping of tree and other large ferns with palms, Cannas, Aralias, Dracænas, &c., avoiding, of course, formal arrangement, and yet, when finished, a symmetrical appearance should be produced. In more open positions, palms, Castor Oil Plants, Cannas,Humea elegans, Aralias, Phormiums, Wigandias, Nicotianas, &c., may be employed, the result being, if properly arranged, most gratifying. Sub-Tropical Bedding should not be done till the middle or end of June, and the Beds should be well dug and freely manured for those that are to be planted out.

FIG217. DESIGNFORBEDDING.

Fig. 216 represents a Border or long piece of ground, which may be either marked out permanently with Box edging, dwarf-growing silver or golden leaved plants, tiles, stones, or pebbles, and filled in with silver sand or bright-coloured stones or gravel; or the lines may be widened out into walks. The whole of the small circles not numbered are intended for specimen foliage and other plants, such as Fuchsias, Yuccas, Aloes, Cannas, Solanums, variegated or plain Reeds, Grasses, Maize (Zea), &c. No. 1, tall plants ofEcheveria metallica, edged withE. glauca; 2, 2, yellow or orange Calceolaria; 3, 3, Mrs. Leavers Pelargonium; 4, 4, Triomphe de Stella ditto; 5, 5, purple or blue Verbena; 6, 6, white ditto. The narrow border round the side may then be filled in with Golden-feather Pyrethrum, blue Lobelia, orAlternanthera amabilis. This same plan may also be treated in quite a different manner, according to the taste of those adopting it, or the stock of plants at command.

FIG. 218. DESIGNFORBEDDINGORCARPETBEDDING.

Fig. 217 illustrates a design admirably adapted for a rosery or small flower garden. Its only fault is the number of sharp angles at the corners of some of the Beds; but this can be counteracted by the predominance of curved lines. It is easily formed, and the effect is good if furnished in the following manner: The circle in the centre, 1,Centaurea ragusina compacta, edged with a double line ofColeus Verschaffeltii; the four figures 2, 2, 2, 2, scarlet Pelargoniums, such as Vesuvius, Bonfire, Triomphe de Stella, or others; 3, 3, Mrs. Pollock, golden-zoned Pelargoniums, edged withAlternanthera amœna; 4, 4, Lady Cullum, ditto, ditto, edged with ditto; 5, 5,Lobelia speciosa, Imperial Dwarf Ageratum, or Purple King Verbena; 6, 6, white Verbena or white Ivy-leaved Pelargonium.

FIG.219. ARRANGEMENT OFNURSERY FORROSETREES ANDSHRUBS.

FIG. 220. ARRANGEMENT OFNURSERY FORROSETREES ANDSHRUBS.

The group of Beds illustrated in Fig. 218 is effective on grass or gravel. If on the latter, the lines should be defined with Box, Golden Thyme, Cerastium, or Santolinas. The design is pretty on level, but is still more effective on sloping ground; in the latter case, it should rise from the straight walk (dotted line). Thus each Bed may be seen to the best advantage, and the group may be extended to any length. The circular Beds should be planted with two distinct colours, such as good pink and scarlet Pelargoniums of similar habits of growth, placingthe colours in alternate Beds. The Beds,a,a,a, Flower of Spring, or another silver-leaved Pelargonium;b,b,b, Purple King Verbena, or Imperial Dwarf Ageratum;c,c, White Perfection Verbena, and silver-leaved or white-flowered Ivy-leaved Pelargonium;d,d,Alternanthera magnifica;e,e, Blue Lobelia. The long border,Alternanthera paronychioides, edged withAntennaria tomentosa; orIresine Lindenii, edged with Pyrethrum, Golden Fleece or Crystal Palace Gem Pelargonium. The two sides may also be planted alike. The colours are reversed above to produce a greater variety and a more striking effect. This design is also well adapted for Carpet Bedding.

FIG. 221. BEDDING-OUTDESIGNS.

Nursery Bed.This is merely a reserve ground or nursery for a large stock of plants of various sorts, such as Roses, &c. One of the first requirements is an easy access to the individual plants, and with the least possible waste of space. This may be obtained by arranging the Beds in regular geometric figures, as shown in Figs. 219 and 220, and, by exercising a little care and taste, the whole can be so contrived as to present an ornamental appearance.

We are indebted to Messrs. Cannell and Sons for the diagrams of Bedding-out designs shown at Fig. 221, which may be made very effective:

Bed A. This Bed may be planted with the following: Summer-flowering: 1, Gain's Yellow Calceolaria or Ageratum Lady Jane; 2, Geranium Vesuvius or another scarlet; 3 and 4, Viola Blue-bell or Purple King Verbena; 5, edged withGnaphalium lanatum, orAntennaria tomentosa, white foliaged plants. Summer Foliage: 1,Coleus Verschaffeltii; 2,Centaurea ragusina compacta; 3 and 4, Mrs. Pollock Geranium; 5, band of any of the Echeverias, orKleinia repens.

Bed B. Plants mentioned for A will do for this.

Bed C. This is really intended for a Carpet Bed. 1,Alternanthera amabilis, with a narrow line ofamœnafor the edge; 2,Mentha, orHerniaria glabra; 3, band ofMesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum. Flowering: 1, Any kind of Scarlet Geranium; 2, Golden-leaved ditto; 3, Blue Lobelia (edge). Spring: 1, White Arabis; 2,Myosotis dissitiflora; 3, Golden Feather.

Bed D. Summer: 1, Pink Geranium; 2,Iresine Lindenii; 3, Golden Feather. Carpet: 1,Alternanthera versicolor grandis; 2,Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum; 3,Alternanthera magnifica, edged withSempervivum montanum.

Bed E. 1, Scarlet Geranium; 2, Pink ditto; 3,Lobelia speciosa; or, 1,Alternanthera amœna; 2,Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum; 3,Echeveria secunda glauca.

Bed F. 1,Dracæna,Chamæpeuce, or any other graceful foliage plant for the centre; 2 and 4,Alternanthera amabilis, the divided lines, 6, being filled with Mentha or Echeverias; 3 and 5,Alternanthera amœna; and the outer edge, 7, withSempervivum californicum. This bed would look well if planted with any of the above-mentioned spring flowers. Spring: Bed might be raised to a mound, and lined out with hardy Sedums, or Sempervivums, placing a larger growing one in the centre; and 2, 3, 4, and 5 divisions may be filled with any spring-flowering dwarf-growing plants.

Bed G. 1, Small plant of Yucca; 2,Coleus Verschaffeltii; 3,Alyssum variegatum; 4,Lobelia pumila magnifica.

Bed H. 1, Golden Feather; Mesembryanthemum; 3, Mentha; 4,Alternanthera amabilis; or 1,Coleus Verschaffeltii; 2,Centaurea ragusina; 3, Calceolaria Golden Gem; 4, Ageratum Lady Jane.

BEDDING PLANTS.This term applies to many half-hardy subjects which are planted out in beds for summer display, such as Ageratums, Calceolarias, Geraniums, Heliotropes, Lobelias, Verbenas, &c., all of which will be treated under their respective headings. They are mostly soft-wooded plants and are easily cultivated with proper means, in spring and autumn.

BEDFORDIA(named in honour of a former Duke of Bedford). ORD.Compositæ. Greenhouse evergreen shrubs, allied toCacalia. They thrive in a mixture of sand, peat, loam, and brick rubbish, in equal proportions. Propagated by cuttings, which should be dried a little before inserting them in rough, sandy soil.

B. salicina(willow-like).fl.-headsyellow, axillary and solitary, or few together. April.l.alternate, lanceolate, linear, glossy above, covered with white tomentum underneath.h.3ft. Victoria and Tasmania, 1820. SYN.Cacalia salicina. (B. R. 923.)

BEDSTRAW.SeeGalium.

BEECH.SeeFagus.

BEES.SeeHoney Bees,Humble Bees, andWasps.

BEET(Beta,whichsee). The present varieties of Beetroot are the offspring ofBeta vulgaris, a plant of biennial duration, and a native of the sea coasts of Southern Europe. It was cultivated in this country about 1656, but was probably long previously introduced by the ancient Romans. Beetroot is largely used as salad, more extensively on the Continent than with us, also pickled; medium sized, deeply coloured roots being the chief desideratum. Some varieties are largely grown for their highly-coloured foliage, being planted in bedding-out designs, and generally proving extremely effective.

FIG. 222. LONGYELLOWBEETROOT.

Cultivation: For obtaining the best results, an open situation should be chosen, free from the shade of trees. The ground should be light and sandy, and, if possible, that which has been previously manured for some other crop, French beans, for instance. Trench the soil to a depth of 2ft. in the autumn, and ridge it up for the winter. As soon as dry enough to allow of working in spring, dig over the whole bed with a steel digging fork, and break the soil tolerably fine. Sow any time from the last week in April to the end of May. Prepare the drills about a foot or 15in. apart, and from 1in. to 2in. deep. The seeds grow quicker if steeped in water previous to sowing, afterwards allowing them to get dry enough to separate from each other. Sow thinly, and fill in the drills with a rake. As soon as the plants are up, hoe between the rows, and keep free from weeds. In a fortnight or three weeks after this hoeing, if the weather has been favourable, the plants will be large enough for thinning. Thin out to about 9in. apart, and carefully fill up, in dull weather, any blanks that may occur. Transplanting is, however, not generally a very satisfactory method. Carefully lift the roots in autumn, before frost comes, and wring off the leaves about an inch from the crowns. Place the roots in a cool shed or house, and allow the soil on them to get quite dry, when they may be stored for winter use in dry sand, or soil, in a shed free from frost. It is preferable to keep the crowns free from soil, to prevent decay from the ends of the leaves left on them. If this be carefully done, the roots will keep till the next season's early crop is ready. In all processes connected with the growing, storing, or cooking of this vegetable, the greatest care must be taken to avoid bruising or otherwise injuring the roots, as deficiency of colour would be the result, especially in the case of the red-fleshed kinds, in some cases rendering them valueless for table use. Seed Saving: When lifting the crop in autumn, select as many of the best formed and coloured roots as required, and store them separately from the rest. In April, plant them in a spot by themselves, where there is no danger of impregnation from other varieties, and in due time good seed will ripen. If good foliaged varieties are required, the best should be selected when growing in the summer, and either be marked by some means, or have the inferior ones removed from them.

Sorts.These are somewhat numerous—almost every seedsman having a so-called "improved strain." Nutting's Dwarf Red, Chelsea, Pine Apple, Dell's Crimson and Red Castelnaudary, are the best of the crimson or red-fleshed kinds. The Egyptian Turnip-rooted is a distinct variety, with flesh of a good colour, and fine flavour; excellent for summer salads. Betterave de Bretagne is a Continental variety; the roots grow to a good size, with a distinct outer skin of a dark colour; flesh rich purple. The best of the yellow-fleshed kinds are Small Yellow and Long Yellow (see Fig. 222); but these are not grown nearly so much as the deep-coloured section; in fact, they are almost useless for garden purposes.

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