The Project Gutenberg eBook ofThe Innocents AbroadThis ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this ebook or online atwww.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this eBook.Title: The Innocents AbroadAuthor: Mark TwainRelease date: June 22, 2004 [eBook #3176]Most recently updated: October 11, 2022Language: EnglishCredits: Produced by David Widger*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE INNOCENTS ABROAD ***
This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this ebook or online atwww.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this eBook.
Title: The Innocents AbroadAuthor: Mark TwainRelease date: June 22, 2004 [eBook #3176]Most recently updated: October 11, 2022Language: EnglishCredits: Produced by David Widger
Title: The Innocents Abroad
Author: Mark Twain
Author: Mark Twain
Release date: June 22, 2004 [eBook #3176]Most recently updated: October 11, 2022
Language: English
Credits: Produced by David Widger
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE INNOCENTS ABROAD ***
[Cover and Spine from the 1884 Edition]
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Popular Talk of the Excursion—Programme of the Trip—Duly Ticketed for the Excursion—Defection of the Celebrities
Grand Preparations—An Imposing Dignitary—The European Exodus— Mr. Blucher’s Opinion—Stateroom No. 10—The Assembling of the Clans— At Sea at Last
“Averaging” the Passengers—Far, far at Sea.—Tribulation among the Patriarchs—Seeking Amusement under Difficulties—Five Captains in the Ship
The Pilgrims Becoming Domesticated—Pilgrim Life at Sea—“Horse- Billiards”—The “Synagogue”—The Writing School—Jack’s “Journal”— The “Q. C. Club”—The Magic Lantern—State Ball on Deck—Mock Trials— Charades—Pilgrim Solemnity—Slow Music—The Executive Officer Delivers an Opinion
Summer in Mid-Atlantic—An Eccentric Moon—Mr. Blucher Loses Confidence—The Mystery of “Ship Time”—The Denizens of the Deep—“Land Hoh”— The First Landing on a Foreign Shore—Sensation among the Natives— Something about the Azores Islands—Blucher’s Disastrous Dinner— The Happy Result
Solid Information—A Fossil Community—Curious Ways and Customs—Jesuit Humbuggery—Fantastic Pilgrimizing—Origin of the Russ Pavement— Squaring Accounts with the Fossils—At Sea Again
A Tempest at Night—Spain and Africa on Exhibition—Greeting a Majestic Stranger—The Pillars of Hercules—The Rock of Gibraltar—Tiresome Repetition—“The Queen’s Chair”—Serenity Conquered—Curiosities of the Secret Caverns—Personnel of Gibraltar—Some Odd Characters—A Private Frolic in Africa—Bearding a Moorish Garrison (without loss of life)—Vanity Rebuked—Disembarking in the Empire of Morocco
The Ancient City of Tangier, Morocco—Strange Sights—A Cradle of Antiquity—We become Wealthy—How they Rob the Mail in Africa—The Danger of being Opulent in Morocco
A Pilgrim—in Deadly Peril—How they Mended the Clock—Moorish Punishments for Crime—Marriage Customs—Looking Several ways for Sunday—Shrewd, Practice of Mohammedan Pilgrims—Reverence for Cats—Bliss of being a Consul-General
Fourth of July at Sea—Mediterranean Sunset—The “Oracle” is Delivered of an Opinion—Celebration Ceremonies—The Captain’s Speech—France in Sight—The Ignorant Native—In Marseilles—Another Blunder—Lost in the Great City—Found Again—A Frenchy Scene
Getting used to it—No Soap—Bill of Fare, Table d’hote—“An American Sir”—A Curious Discovery—The “Pilgrim” Bird—Strange Companionship—A Grave of the Living—A Long Captivity—Some of Dumas’ Heroes—Dungeon of the Famous “Iron Mask.”
A Holiday Flight through France—Summer Garb of the Landscape—Abroad on the Great Plains—Peculiarities of French Cars—French Politeness American Railway Officials—“Twenty Minutes to Dinner!”—Why there are no Accidents—The “Old Travellers”—Still on the Wing—Paris at Last——French Order and Quiet—Place of the Bastile—Seeing the Sights—A Barbarous Atrocity—Absurd Billiards
More Trouble—Monsieur Billfinger—Re-Christening the Frenchman—In the Clutches of a Paris Guide—The International Exposition—Fine Military Review—Glimpse of the Emperor Napoleon and the Sultan of Turkey
The Venerable Cathedral of Notre-Dame—Jean Sanspeur’s Addition—Treasures and Sacred Relics—The Legend of the Cross—The Morgue—The Outrageious ‘Can-Can’—Blondin Aflame—The Louvre Palace—The Great Park—Showy Pageantry—Preservation of Noted Things
French National Burying—Ground—Among the Great Dead—The Shrine of Disappointed Love—The Story of Abelard and Heloise—“English Spoken Here”—“American Drinks Compounded Here”—Imperial Honors to an American—The Over-estimated Grisette—Departure from Paris—A Deliberate Opinion Concerning the Comeliness of American Women
Versailles—Paradise Regained—A Wonderful Park—Paradise Lost—Napoleonic Strategy
War—The American Forces Victorious—“Home Again”—Italy in Sight The “City of Palaces”—Beauty of the Genoese Women—The “Stub-Hunters”—Among the Palaces—Gifted Guide—Church Magnificence—“Women not Admitted”—How the Genoese Live—Massive Architecture—A Scrap of Ancient History—Graves for 60,000
Flying Through Italy—Marengo—First Glimpse of the Famous Cathedral—Description of some of its Wonders—A Horror Carved in Stone——An Unpleasant Adventure—A Good Man—A Sermon from the Tomb—Tons of Gold and Silver—Some More Holy Relics—Solomon’s Temple
“Do You Wiz zo Haut can be?”—La Scala—Petrarch and Laura—Lucrezia Borgia—Ingenious Frescoes—Ancient Roman Amphitheatre—A Clever Delusion—Distressing Billiards—The Chief Charm of European Life—An Italian Bath—Wanted: Soap—Crippled French—Mutilated English—The Most Celebrated Painting in the World—Amateur Raptures—Uninspired Critics—Anecdote—A Wonderful Echo—A Kiss for a Franc
Rural Italy by Rail—Fumigated, According to Law—The Sorrowing Englishman—Night by the Lake of Como—The Famous Lake—Its Scenery—Como compared with Tahoe—Meeting a Shipmate
The Pretty Lago di Lecco--A Carriage Drive in the Country--Astonishing Sociability in a Coachman--Sleepy Land--Bloody Shrines--The Heart and Home of Priestcraft--A Thrilling Mediaeval Romance--The Birthplace of Harlequin--Approaching Venice
Night in Venice--The “Gay Gondolier"--The Grand Fete by Moonlight--The Notable Sights of Venice--The Mother of the Republics Desolate
The Famous Gondola--The Gondola in an Unromantic Aspect--The Great Square of St. Mark and the Winged Lion--Snobs, at Home and Abroad--Sepulchres of the Great Dead--A Tilt at the “Old Masters"--A Contraband Guide--The Conspiracy--Moving Again
Down Through Italy by Rail--Idling in Florence--Dante and Galileo--An Ungrateful City--Dazzling Generosity--Wonderful Mosaics--The Historical Arno--Lost Again--Found Again, but no Fatted Calf Ready--The Leaning Tower of Pisa--The Ancient Duomo--The Old Original First Pendulum that Ever Swung--An Enchanting Echo--A New Holy Sepulchre--A Relic of Antiquity--A Fallen Republic--At Leghorn--At Home Again, and Satisfied, on Board the Ship--Our Vessel an Object of Grave Suspicion--Garibaldi Visited--Threats of Quarantine
The Works of Bankruptcy--Railway Grandeur--How to Fill an Empty Treasury--The Sumptuousness of Mother Church--Ecclesiastical Splendor--Magnificence and Misery--General Execration--More Magnificence A Good Word for the Priests--Civita Vecchia the Dismal--Off for Rome
The Modern Roman on His Travels--The Grandeur of St. Peter’s--Holy Relics--Grand View from the Dome--The Holy Inquisition--Interesting Old Monkish Frauds--The Ruined Coliseum--The Coliseum in the Days of its Prime--Ancient Playbill of a Coliseum Performance--A Roman Newspaper Criticism 1700 Years Old
“Butchered to Make a Roman Holiday"--The Man who Never Complained--An Exasperating Subject--Asinine Guides--The Roman Catacombs The Saint Whose Fervor Burst his Ribs--The Miracle of the Bleeding Heart--The Legend of Ara Coeli
Picturesque Horrors--The Legend of Brother Thomas--Sorrow Scientifically Analyzed--A Festive Company of the Dead--The Great Vatican Museum Artist Sins of Omission--The Rape of the Sabines--Papal Protection of Art--High Price of “Old Masters"--Improved Scripture--Scale of Rank of the Holy Personages in Rome--Scale of Honors Accorded Them--Fossilizing--Away for Naples
Naples--In Quarantine at Last--Annunciation--Ascent of Mount Vesuvius--A Two Cent Community--The Black Side of Neapolitan Character--Monkish Miracles--Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued--The Stranger and the Hackman--Night View of Naples from the Mountain-side---Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued
Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued--Beautiful View at Dawn--Less Beautiful in the Back Streets--Ascent of Vesuvius Continued--Dwellings a Hundred Feet High--A Motley Procession--Bill of Fare for a Peddler’s Breakfast--Princely Salaries--Ascent of Vesuvius Continued--An Average of Prices--The wonderful “Blue Grotto"--Visit to Celebrated Localities in the Bay of Naples--The Poisoned “Grotto of the Dog"--A Petrified Sea of Lava--Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued--The Summit Reached--Description of the Crater--Descent of Vesuvius
The Buried City of Pompeii—How Dwellings Appear that have been Unoccupied for Eighteen hundred years—The Judgment Seat—Desolation—The Footprints of the Departed—“No Women Admitted”—Theatres, Bakeshops, Schools—Skeletons preserved by the Ashes and Cinders—The Brave Martyr to Duty—Rip Van Winkle—The Perishable Nature of Fame
At Sea Once More—The Pilgrims all Well—Superb Stromboli—Sicily by Moonlight—Scylla and Charybdis—The “Oracle” at Fault—Skirting the Isles of Greece Ancient Athens—Blockaded by Quarantine and Refused Permission to Enter—Running the Blockade—A Bloodless Midnight Adventure—Turning Robbers from Necessity—Attempt to Carry the Acropolis by Storm—We Fail—Among the Glories of the Past—A World of Ruined Sculpture—A Fairy Vision—Famous Localities—Retreating in Good Order—Captured by the Guards—Travelling in Military State—Safe on Board Again
Modern Greece—Fallen Greatness—Sailing Through the Archipelago and the Dardanelles—Footprints of History—The First Shoddy Contractor of whom History gives any Account—Anchored Before Constantinople—Fantastic Fashions—The Ingenious Goose-Rancher—Marvelous Cripples—The Great Mosque—The Thousand and One Columns—The Grand Bazaar of Stamboul
Scarcity of Morals and Whiskey—Slave-Girl Market Report—Commercial Morality at a Discount—The Slandered Dogs of Constantinople—Questionable Delights of Newspaperdom in Turkey—Ingenious Italian Journalism—No More Turkish Lunches Desired—The Turkish Bath Fraud—The Narghileh Fraud—Jackplaned by a Native—The Turkish Coffee Fraud
Sailing Through the Bosporus and the Black Sea—“Far-Away Moses”—Melancholy Sebastopol—Hospitably Received in Russia—Pleasant English People—Desperate Fighting—Relic Hunting—How Travellers Form “Cabinets”
Nine Thousand Miles East—Imitation American Town in Russia—Gratitude that Came Too Late—To Visit the Autocrat of All the Russias
Summer Home of Royalty—Practising for the Dread Ordeal—Committee on Imperial Address—Reception by the Emperor and Family—Dresses of the Imperial Party—Concentrated Power—Counting the Spoons—At the Grand Duke’s—A Charming Villa—A Knightly Figure—The Grand Duchess—A Grand Ducal Breakfast—Baker’s Boy, the Famine-Breeder—Theatrical Monarchs a Fraud—Saved as by Fire—The Governor—General’s Visit to the Ship—Official “Style”—Aristocratic Visitors—“Munchausenizing” with Them—Closing Ceremonies
Return to Constantinople—We Sail for Asia—The Sailors Burlesque the Imperial Visitors—Ancient Smyrna—The “Oriental Splendor” Fraud—The “Biblical Crown of Life”—Pilgrim Prophecy-Savans—Sociable Armenian Girls—A Sweet Reminiscence—“The Camels are Coming, Ha-ha!”
Smyrna’s Lions—The Martyr Polycarp—The “Seven Churches”—Remains of the Six Smyrnas—Mysterious Oyster Mine Oysters—Seeking Scenery—A Millerite Tradition—A Railroad Out of its Sphere
Journeying Toward Ancient Ephesus—Ancient Ayassalook—The Villanous Donkey—A Fantastic Procession—Bygone Magnificence—Fragments of History—The Legend of the Seven Sleepers
Vandalism Prohibited—Angry Pilgrims—Approaching Holy Land!—The “Shrill Note of Preparation”—Distress About Dragomans and Transportation—The “Long Route” Adopted—In Syria—Something about Beirout—A Choice Specimen of a Greek “Ferguson”—Outfits—Hideous Horseflesh—Pilgrim “Style”—What of Aladdin’s Lamp?
“Jacksonville,” in the Mountains of Lebanon—Breakfasting above a Grand Panorama—The Vanished City—The Peculiar Steed, “Jericho”—The Pilgrims Progress—Bible Scenes—Mount Hermon, Joshua’s Battle Fields, etc.—The Tomb of Noah—A Most Unfortunate People
Patriarchal Customs—Magnificent Baalbec—Description of the Ruins—Scribbling Smiths and Joneses—Pilgrim Fidelity to the Letter of the Law—The Revered Fountain of Baalam’s Ass
Extracts from Note-Book—Mahomet’s Paradise and the Bible’s—Beautiful Damascus the Oldest City on Earth—Oriental Scenes within the Curious Old City—Damascus Street Car—The Story of St. Paul—The “Street called Straight”—Mahomet’s Tomb and St. George’s—The Christian Massacre—Mohammedan Dread of Pollution—The House of Naaman—The Horrors of Leprosy
The Cholera by way of Variety—Hot—Another Outlandish Procession—Pen and-Ink Photograph of “Jonesborough,” Syria—Tomb of Nimrod, the Mighty Hunter—The Stateliest Ruin of All—Stepping over the Borders of Holy-Land—Bathing in the Sources of Jordan—More “Specimen” Hunting—Ruins of Cesarea—Philippi—“On This Rock Will I Build my Church”—The People the Disciples Knew—The Noble Steed “Baalbec”—Sentimental Horse Idolatry of the Arabs
Dan—Bashan—Genessaret—A Notable Panorama—Smallness of Palestine—Scraps of History—Character of the Country—Bedouin Shepherds—Glimpses of the Hoary Past—Mr. Grimes’s Bedouins—A Battle—Ground of Joshua—That Soldier’s Manner of Fighting—Barak’s Battle—The Necessity of Unlearning Some Things—Desolation
“Jack’s Adventure”—Joseph’s Pit—The Story of Joseph—Joseph’s Magnanimity and Esau’s—The Sacred Lake of Genessaret—Enthusiasm of the Pilgrims—Why We did not Sail on Galilee—About Capernaum—Concerning the Saviour’s Brothers and Sisters—Journeying toward Magdela
Curious Specimens of Art and Architecture—Public Reception of the Pilgrims—Mary Magdalen’s House—Tiberias and its Queer Inhabitants—The Sacred Sea of Galilee—Galilee by Night
The Ancient Baths—Ye Apparition—A Distinguished Panorama—The Last Battle of the Crusades—The Story of the Lord of Kerak—Mount Tabor—What one Sees from its Top—Memory of a Wonderful Garden—The House of Deborah the Prophetess
Toward Nazareth—Bitten By a Camel—Grotto of the Annunciation, Nazareth—Noted Grottoes in General—Joseph’s Workshop—A Sacred Bowlder—The Fountain of the Virgin—Questionable Female Beauty—Literary Curiosities
Boyhood of the Saviour—Unseemly Antics of Sober Pilgrims—Home of the Witch of Endor—Nain—Profanation—A Popular Oriental Picture—Biblical Metaphors Becoming steadily More Intelligible—The Shuuem Miracle—The “Free Son of The Desert”—Ancient Jezrael—Jehu’s Achievements—Samaria and its Famous Siege
Curious Remnant of the Past—Shechem—The Oldest “First Family” on Earth—The Oldest Manuscript Extant—The Genuine Tomb of Joseph—Jacob’s Well—Shiloh—Camping with the Arabs—Jacob’s Ladder—More Desolation—Ramah, Beroth, the Tomb of Samuel, The Fountain of Beira—Impatience—Approaching Jerusalem—The Holy City in Sight—Noting Its Prominent Features—Domiciled Within the Sacred Walls
“The Joy of the Whole Earth”—Description of Jerusalem—Church of the Holy Sepulchre—The Stone of Unction—The Grave of Jesus—Graves of Nicodemus and Joseph of Armattea—Places of the Apparition—The Finding of the There Crosses——The Legend—Monkish Impostures—The Pillar of Flagellation—The Place of a Relic—Godfrey’s Sword—“The Bonds of Christ”—“The Center of the Earth”—Place whence the Dust was taken of which Adam was Made—Grave of Adam—The Martyred Soldier—The Copper Plate that was on the Cross—The Good St. Helena—Place of the Division of the Garments—St. Dimas, the Penitent Thief—The Late Emperor Maximilian’s Contribution—Grotto wherein the Crosses were Found, and the Nails, and the Crown of Thorns—Chapel of the Mocking—Tomb of Melchizedek—Graves of Two Renowned Crusaders—The Place of the Crucifixion
The “Sorrowful Way”—The Legend of St. Veronica’s Handkerchief—An Illustrious Stone—House of the Wandering Jew—The Tradition of the Wanderer—Solomon’s Temple—Mosque of Omar—Moslem Traditions—“Women not Admitted”—The Fate of a Gossip—Turkish Sacred Relics—Judgment Seat of David and Saul—Genuine Precious Remains of Solomon’s Temple—Surfeited with Sights—The Pool of Siloam—The Garden of Gethsemane and Other Sacred Localities
Rebellion in the Camp—Charms of Nomadic Life—Dismal Rumors—En Route for Jericho and The Dead Sea—Pilgrim Strategy—Bethany and the Dwelling of Lazarus—“Bedouins!”—Ancient Jericho—Misery—The Night March—The Dead Sea—An Idea of What a “Wilderness” in Palestine is—The Holy hermits of Mars Saba—Good St. Saba—Women not Admitted—Buried from the World for all Time—Unselfish Catholic Benevolence—Gazelles—The Plain of the Shepherds—Birthplace of the Saviour, Bethlehem—Church of the Nativity—Its Hundred Holy Places—The Famous “Milk” Grotto—Tradition—Return to Jerusalem—Exhausted
Departure from Jerusalem—Samson—The Plain of Sharon—Arrival at Joppa—Horse of Simon the Tanner—The Long Pilgrimage Ended—Character of Palestine Scenery—The Curse
The Happiness of being at Sea once more—“Home” as it is in a Pleasure Ship—“Shaking Hands” with the Vessel—Jack in Costume—His Father’s Parting Advice—Approaching Egypt—Ashore in Alexandria—A Deserved Compliment for the Donkeys—Invasion of the Lost Tribes of America—End of the Celebrated “Jaffa Colony”—Scenes in Grand Cairo—Shepheard’s Hotel Contrasted with a Certain American Hotel—Preparing for the Pyramids
“Recherche” Donkeys—A Wild Ride—Specimens of Egyptian Modesty—Moses in the Bulrushes—Place where the Holy Family Sojourned—Distant view of the Pyramids—A Nearer View—The Ascent—Superb View from the top of the Pyramid—“Backsheesh! Backsheesh!”—An Arab Exploit—In the Bowels of the Pyramid—Strategy—Reminiscence of “Holiday’s Hill”—Boyish Exploit—The Majestic Sphynx—Things the Author will not Tell—Grand Old Egypt
Going Home—A Demoralized Note-Book—A Boy’s Diary—Mere Mention of Old Spain—Departure from Cadiz—A Deserved Rebuke—The Beautiful Madeiras—Tabooed—In the Delightful Bermudas—An English Welcome—Good-by to “Our Friends the Bermudians”—Packing Trunks for Home—Our First Accident—The Long Cruise Drawing to a Close—At Home—Amen
Thankless Devotion—A Newspaper Valedictory—Conclusion
1. THE QUAKER CITY IN A STORM—FRONTPIECE2. ILLUMINATED TITLE-PAGE-THE PILGRIM’S VISION3. “I ‘LL PAY YOU IN PARIS"4. THE START5. “GOOD MORNING, SIR"6. THE OLD PIRATE7. DANCING UNDER DIFFICULTIES8. THE MOCK TRIAL9. “LAND, HO!”10. THE CAPOTE11. RUIN AND DESOLATION12. PORT OF HORTA, FAYAL13. “SEKKI-YAH"14. BEAUTIFUL STRANGER15. ROCK OF GIBRALTAR16. “QUEEN’S CHAIR"17. THE ORACLE18. THE INTERROGATION POINT19. GARRISON AT MALABAT20. ENTERTAINING AN ANGEL21. VIEW OF A STREET IN TANGIER22. CHANGE FOR A NAPOLEON23. THE CONSUL’S FAMILY24. “POET LARIAT"25. FIRST SUPPER IN FRANCE26. PAINTING27. RINGING FOR SOAP28. “WINE, SIR!”29. THE PILGRIM30. THE PRISONER31. HOMELESS FRANCE32. RAILROAD OFFICIAL IN FRANCE33. “FIVE MINUTES FOR REFRESHMENTS”—AMERICA34. “THIRTY MINUTES FOR DINNER”—FRANCE35. THE OLD TRAVELLER36. A DECIDED SHAVE37. A GAS-TLY SUBSTITUTE38. THE THREE GUIDES39. “ZE SILK MAGAZIN"40. RETURN IN WAR PAINT41. NAPOLEON III42. ABDUL AZIZ43. THE MORGUE44. WE TOOK A WALK45. THE CAN-CAN46. GRAVES OF ABELARD AND HELOISE47. A PAIR OF CANONS OF 13TH CENTURY48. THE PRIVATE MARRIAGE49. AMERICAN DRINKS50. ROYAL HONORS TO A YANKEE51. THE GRISETTE52. FOUNTAIN AT VERSAILLES53. WOMEN OF GENOA54. PETRIFIED LACKEY55. PRIEST AND FRIAR56. STATUE OF COLUMBUS57. GRAVES OF SIXTY THOUSAND58. ROOF AND SPIRES OF CATHEDRAL AT MILAN59. CENTRAL DOOR OF CATHEDRAL AT MILAN60. INTERIOR OF CATHEDRAL AT MILAN61. BOYHOOD EXPERIENCE62. TREASURES OF THE CATHEDRAL63. CATHEDRAL AT MILAN64. LA SCALA THEATRE65. COPYING FROM OLD MASTERS66. FACIAL EXPRESSION67. TILE ECHO68. NOTE BOOK69. A KISS FOR A FRANC70. THE FUMIGATION71. LAKE COMO72. GARDEN, LAKE COMO73 SOCIAL DRIVER74 WAYSIDE SHRINE75 PEACE AND HAPPINESS76 CASTLE OF COUNT LUIGI77 THE WICKED BROTHER78 DISGUSTED GONDOLIER79 CATHEDRAL OF ST. MARK80 THE PEG81 “GOOD-BY"82 M’SIEUR GOR-R-DONG83 MONUMENT TO THE DOOR84 ST. MARK, MATHEW, JEROME BY THE OLD MASTERS87 ST. SEBASTIAN, AND ST. UNKNOWN BY THE OLD MASTERS89 RIALTO BRIDGE AND BRIDGE OF SIGHS91 FLORENCE92 THE PENSIONER93 “I WANT TO GO HOME"94 THE LEANING TOWER95 THE CONTRAST96 ITALIAN PASTIMES97 INCENDIARY DOCUMENT98 A ROMAN OF 186999 MAMERTINE PRISON100 OLD ROMAN101 COLISEUM OF ANCIENT ROME102 DID NOT COMPLAIN103 HUMBOLDT HOUSE104 DAN105 BRONZE STATUE106 PENMANSHIP107 ON A BUST108 VAULTS OF THE CONVENT109 DRIED CONVENT FRUITS110 AT THE STORE111 AT HOME112 SOOTHING THE PILGRIMS113 ASCENT OF MT VESUVIUS114 BAY OF NAPLES115 THE MUSTANG116 ISLAND OF CAPRI117 BLUE GROTTO118 VESUVIUS AND BAY of NAPLES119 THE DESCENT120 RUINS, POMPEII121 FORUM OF JUSTICE, POMPEII122 HOUSE; POMPEII123 STROMBOLI124 VIEW OF THE ACROPOLIS, LOOKING WEST125 “HO"126 THE ASSAULT127 THE CARYATIDES128 THE PARTHENON129 WE SIDLED, NOT RAN130 ANCIENT ACROPOLIS131 RUINS132 QUEEN OF GREECE133 PALACE AT ATHENS134 STREET SCENE IN CONSTANTINOPLE135 GOOSE RANCHER136 MOSQUE of ST. SOPHIA137 TURKISH MAUSOLEUM138 SLANDERED DOGS139 THE CENSOR ON DUTY140 TURKISH BATH141 FAR-AWAY-MOSES142 A FRAGMENT143 A MEMENTO144 YALTA FROM THE EMPERORS PALACE145 EMPEROR OF RUSSIA146 TINSEL KING147 SHIP EMPEROR148 THE RECEPTION149 STREET SCENE IN SMYRNA150 SMYRNA151 AN APPARENT SUCCESS152 DRIFTING TO STARBOARD153 A SPOILED NAP154 ANCIENT AMPHITHEATER AT EPHESUS155 MODERN AMPHITHEATRE AT EPHESUS156 RUINS OF EPHESUS157 THE JOURNEY158 GRAVES OF THE SEVEN SLEEPERS159 THE SELECTION160 CAMPING OUT161 ARABS’ TENTS162 A GOOD FEEDER163 INTERESTING FETE164 SUNDAY SCHOOL GRAPES165 AN OLD FOGY166 RACE WITH A CAMEL167 TEMPLE OF TILE SUN168 RUINS OF BAALBEC169 HEWN STONES IN QUARRY170 MERCY171 PATRON SAINT172 WATER CAPRIER173 VIEW OF DAMASCUS174 STREET CARS OF DAMASCUS175 FULL DRESSED TOURIST176 IMPROMPTU HOSPITAL177 THE HORSE “BAALBEC"178 OAR OF BASLIAN179 DANGEROUS ARAB180 GRIMES ON THE WAR-PATH181 BEDOUIN CAMP182 HOME OF ANCIENT POMP183 JACK184 A DISAPPOINTED AUDIENCE185 FIG-TREE186 “FARE TOO HIGH"187 SYRIAN HOUSE188 TIBERIAS AND SEA OF GALILEE189 THE GUARD190 MOUNT TABOR191 GATHERING FUEL192 FOUNTAIN OF THE VIRGIN193 “MADONNA-LIKE BEAUTY"194 PUTNAM OUTDONE195 THE BASTINADO196 “I WEPT"197 WANT OF DIGNITY198 AN ORIENTAL WELL199 ARABS SALUTING200 FREE SONS OF THE DESERT201 SHECHEM202 GATE OF JERUSALEM203 BEGGARS IN JERUSALEM204 CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHER205 GRAVE OF ADAM206 VIEW OF JERUSALEM207 THE WANDERING JEW208 MOSQUE OF OMAR209 AN EPIDEMIC210 CHARGE OF BEDOUINS211 DEAD SEA212 GROTTO OF THE NATIVITY213 JAFFA214 REAR ELEVATION OF JACK215 STREET IN ALEXANDRIA216 VICEROY OF EGYPT217 EASTERN MONARCH218 MOSES S. BEACH219 ROOM No. 15220 THE NILOMETER221 ASCENT OF THE PYRAMIDS222 HIGH HOPES FRUSTRATED223 KINGS CHAMBER IN THE PYRAMID224 A POWERFUL ARGUMENT225 PYRAMIDS AND SPHINX226 THE RELIC HUNTER227 THE MAMELUKE’S LEAP228 WOULD NOT BE COMFORTED229 THE TRAVELER230 HOMEWARD BOUND231 BAD COFFEE232 OUR FRIENDS THE BERMUDIANS233 CAPTAIN DUNCAN234 FINIS
This book is a record of a pleasure trip. If it were a record of a solemn scientific expedition, it would have about it that gravity, that profundity, and that impressive incomprehensibility which are so proper to works of that kind, and withal so attractive. Yet notwithstanding it is only a record of a pic-nic, it has a purpose, which is to suggest to the reader how he would be likely to see Europe and the East if he looked at them with his own eyes instead of the eyes of those who traveled in those countries before him. I make small pretense of showing anyone how he ought to look at objects of interest beyond the sea—other books do that, and therefore, even if I were competent to do it, there is no need.
I offer no apologies for any departures from the usual style of travel-writing that may be charged against me—for I think I have seen with impartial eyes, and I am sure I have written at least honestly, whether wisely or not.
In this volume I have used portions of letters which I wrote for the Daily Alta California, of San Francisco, the proprietors of that journal having waived their rights and given me the necessary permission. I have also inserted portions of several letters written for the New York Tribune and the New York Herald.
THE AUTHOR. SAN FRANCISCO.