THE HAMMER.

Fig. IX.

Fig. IX.represents the cylinder, with the lantern for turning the same by means of the catches. The dimensions for the cylinder in the present machine are as follows:

This cylinder is carried in the batten, the latter moving in the groove provided for it under 10,Fig. I.This batten has sufficient vibratory motion to enable it to move the required distance away from the needle-board. After coming in contact with the catch it still moves until the cylinder has performed a complete turn. The cylinder is steadied in the required position by the hammer pressing by the means of a spring towards the lantern from below.

Fig. X.

Fig. X.illustrates the hammer as attached to the batten;atob, (equals 3 inches in width in our present illustration), represents the head of the hammer, forming the foundation for steadying the cylinder in its turning. The hammer is pressed for this purpose towards the cylinder by means of the spring,stor. Partshandkguide the hammer in its up and down movements, and are solid parts of the batten. By turning the cylinder the hammer is pushed down in the direction of the arrow,t, thus compressing the spring, which returns to its normal position after the cylinder has completed its turn, ready for being advanced towards the needle-board.

The following are accurate measurements of this part of the machine:

The shaded part of the drawing above the hammer represents the cylinder,i, which has its shaft for turning atm.

Fig. XI.

As before mentioned, the heads of the needles are passed through the needle-board. A drawing of this board, representing the front view, is shown inFig. XI.The following are the dimensions:

atoc, = 9-1/2 inches.atob, = 2-3/8 inches.

Each side of the prism, always technically called the cylinder, has a protruding peg about 1/2 inch in length. When in contact with the needle-board these pegs enter the black holes shown upon either side in drawing. The 208 needles and holes in the present machine are represented by a small spot for the former with an outside ring for the latter.

Fig. XII.

The lifting of the griffe, which in turn also operates the other parts of the Jacquard head, as explained before, is not always produced from above: very often this lifting is arranged to be done by means of a lever arrangement from below the griffe. This method of working the mechanism in the Jacquard machine is illustrated byFig. XII., representing the perspective view of a 400 Jacquard machine, (W. P. Uhlinger, builder).

Fig. XIII.

Fig. XIII.represents the same machine adjusted to the loom. On the longer arm of the lever a series of holes are found. These regulate the height of the lift by the vertical rod which provides the required movement. The nearer this rod is adjusted to the Jacquard head the higher the lift of the Jacquard harness, thus forming the shed.

Fig. XIV.

Fig. XIV.represents a single Jacquard card, as required for the 200 Jacquardmachine, 1/4 of its actual size. This shows 26 rows of holes in its width and 8 rows in its depth, 208 holes. These holes are shown in black, one for each hook in the machine. Besides these a large hole on each side permit the pegs of the cylinder to enter into the needle-board. The cards are interlaced in an endless arrangement.

Fig. XV.

Fig. XV.illustrates four cards laced together. The large holes (markeddin drawing) are peg holes to receive the pegs,h,h´,h´´,h´´´, etc., of the cylinder, as shown inFig. IX.These pegs are movable so that any small variations at cutting with different card-stamping machines can be rectified. The paper used for the cards must be of sufficient thickness to resist the wear caused by the needles, as well as to give steadiness to the cards when resting in the pegs of the cylinder.

The cards are interlaced in an endless arrangement; hence, one card is brought after the other in rotation towards the needles. The cards only refuse service by not fitting properly on the cylinder,i. e., if the peg holes are too near together or too far apart; or if the cards are warped, which is liable to happen in a damp workshop.

A careful examination of the cards fitting on the cylinder is absolutely necessary, otherwise a wrong lifting of the hooks destroying the cards by the pegs punching new holes would result. The cylinder with cards perfectly cut must be set so as to allow the needles to penetrate into the centre of the holes stamped for them in the card. Sometimes the cylinder is set too high or too low—too far in front or too far in rear. To ascertain the proper position, lift the machine and place some paint, or grease from the machine, on the heads of the needles. Afterwards let the machine “fall in,” which will bring the cards against the heads of the needles, producing an impression and indicating the exact position of the needle-heads. The cylinder is always set in its proper position when no marks are made by the entering needles on the margins of the stamped holes and where there are no holes the impression left by the needle head must be equally distant from the surrounding holes.

Fig. XVI.

To get a clear understanding of this examineFig. XVI.illustrating six different impressions of the needles. The circle shown with full lines in each of these six illustrations represents the correct position of the circumference of the hole, and the dotted circles the various errors that may exist.

If the machine produces wrong lifts of the hooks and the trouble is not found in the setting of the cylinder, nor in the hooks or needles, then ascertain if the cylinder is adjusted by means of the lever arrangement, close enough to the needle-board; for if it is not, the hooks will not be pushed far enough from the griffe-bars, and by raising the latter a wrong shed will be produced. When using a great number of cards in a set they are made to fold into a “rack.” This is done by attaching a wire 1 to 1-1/2 inches longer than the cards at the junction of, say every 12th, 15th, or 20th cards. [SeecatFig. XV.]

The cards fall through a wooden frame,Fig. XVII., but the wires attached to the cards, being longer, can not pass through, and the cards will remain suspended, and subsequently fold together in a very compact manner.

Fig. XVII.

InFig. XVII.we illustrate 156 cards arranged with wires attached to every twelfth card, as follows: between cards 156 and 1, 12 and 13, 24 and 25, 36 and 37, 48 and 49, 60 and 61, 72 and 73, 84 and 85, 96 and 97, 108 and 109, 120 and 121, 132 and 133, 144 and 145.

Ate,f,g, are shown prisms of the size of the cylinder, by which the cards are guided and regulated in their run towards the cylinder, (direction of arrow);iandhrepresent round rollers, also placed in rack for guiding cards after leaving the cylinder,c;aandb, the needle-board;candd, the needles of the machine.Srepresents the wires as inserted in cards for holding them in the frame.

To the lower end of the hooks (c.inFig. V.) the neck-cords are adjusted. The latter are passed separately through one of the corresponding holes of the perforated bottom board (Fig. II.) To these neck-cords are fastened the leashes of the Jacquard harness about 1/2 to 1 inch above the frame containing the rods which guide the neck-cords vertically as the hooks are raised and lowered. The different harness-cords are threaded through the comber-board in various ways called “Tie-ups,” which will be explained later.

There are two kinds of comber-boards used upon Jacquard looms:

1st. Comber-boards made of a solid piece of material, either wood or porcelain.

2d. Comber-boards made in strips of either of the materials above named, and adjusted afterwards in a wooden frame.

Before ordering a comber-board, it is necessary to know the texture of the fabric in the loom, and also the number or size of the machine to be used; for the number of holes per inch in the comber-board is regulated by this. Afterwards, we may, if we choose, arrange the number of holes in depth of the comber-board, according to the number of griffe-bars in the machine, (guided by the fabric to be made). We may have eight griffe-bars in the machine, and arrange the comber-board 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 rows deep; or we may have 12 griffe-bars in the machine, and arrange the comber-board 12, 10, 8, 6, 4 rows deep.

Rule: The number of holes to one inch in the comber-board must equal the texture of the fabric to one inch in loom.

Example: Suppose a fabric with a texture in the loom of 100 threads, and we are to use a 600 Jacquard machine, with 12 rows. The width of the fabric in the loom is to be 36 inches.

The width and depth of the comber-board are regulated by the width of the cloth required and by the design to be used.

The greater the number of rows in depth the closer they must be; the same is true of the width.

It is necessary to take care not to have the comber-board too deep, as the consequence would be a bad shed; furthermore, we must not have the holes too close together, as in a high texture this would make trouble in the weaving through the catching of the heddles with the warp, and also cause useless chafing of the warp-threads and the heddles.

In Jacquard work we generally use the same texture, or as near as possible, as the loom is tied up for; but changes are sometimes unavoidable. If we reduce the texture of the fabric in a Jacquard loom tied-up for a solid comber-board, we must reduce proportionally the number of hooks and needles used in designing, and hence the number of heddles used per inch. These heddles will thus be left empty when drawing in the warp. To accomplish this lift the full machine and throw the hooks not to be used from the knives, lowering in this way every mail which is not to be used. Sometimes there may be only one, two, three, or four hooks to be thrown off, on account of the design. At other times it may be necessary that one-eighth, or one-fourth, or even one-half of the whole number shall be dropped for this purpose. For instance, suppose we have a dressgoods design of 596 threads and a 600 machine. These four ends left off the 600, if in 6, 7, 8, or more inches in width, would not affect the fabric nor the cost to any great extent; hence we may leave out the first or last four needles of the 600.

Suppose we have a texture of 100 in the comber-board, to lower to 66 ends per inch. 66 ends, or the nearest even part of 100 (66-2/3) is 2/3 of 100; hence, we only need two-thirds of our machine; and as the same is supposed to be arranged 12 rows deep, we need 2/3 of 12 rows, or 8 rows. The four rows thus found necessary to drop may be dropped from the ends, or alternately, as follows:

Every alternate 2 rows taken, 1 row missed, 4 times over, = 12 rows. Or, 2 rows missed, 8 rows taken, 2 rows missed, = 12 rows.

By these comber-boards which are used to a great advantage on narrow loom work up to 36 inch fabrics, we can change the texture for the fabric; for the strips composing the comber-board may be drawn apart, thus changing the higher texture to lower; whereas in a solid comber-board this could only be done by re-tying the harness or changing the number of needles used in the machine. To give a clear understanding Figs.XVIII.,XIX.,XX.are needed.

Fig. XVIII.represents an 8-row deep comber-board,a,b,c,d, composed of 10 strips which are set close together. By examining each strip 5 cross-rows of holes will be found, making the whole number of holes 400.

Suppose the comber-board as represented inFig. XVIII.is intended for a texture of 100 ends per inch; this will give for the width of the fabric (i,k, tol,m,) 4 inches.

Fig. XIX.Fig. XVIII.

Fig. XIX.

Fig. XVIII.

InFig. XIX.the comber-board is arranged for a texture of half as many ends, or 50 holes per inch, and the 10 strips are arranged accordingly; the empty places between the strips are of same size as the strips themselves, and the fabric design below the comber-board is arranged to correspond.

Fig. XX.

Fig. XX.illustrates the sectional cut of the comber-board used in drawings, Figs.XVIII.andXIX., and the letters indicating the different parts of these figures which correspond.

Under this heading we classify one repeat of the arrangement of threading harness-cords in the comber-board, and therefore one repeat of the design of the fabric. We find fabrics in which are used one or more divisions of one system of threading harness-cords in the comber-board; again, there are others in which one or more divisions of one system are combined with one or more divisions of another, or even of two or three other systems.

Fig. XXI.

After the harness-cords are threaded through the comber-board the heddles are adjusted. Of these there are two kinds:

Fig. XXI.illustrates a regular twine heddle one-fourth of its actual size.

Fig. XXII.

Fig. XXII.illustrates the method observed for combining heddle and harness-cords.a, the guide-board, to get the mails regular in height;b, the knot combining heddle and harness-cord. [SeeainFig. XXI.]c, the mail.d, the lingo.

Fig. XXIII.

Fig. XXIII.illustrates the average position of the mail in a loom.a, breast-beam of the loom.c, the warp-beam or guide-beam over which the warp runs on its way towards the harness.b, the position of the heddle.d, the lingo.

Fig. XXIV.

This requires a clear conception of the rotation in which the different heddles are threaded, according to the tie-up employed. Two methods are in use: 1st. The heddle nearest the weaver is the first to be threaded, and the heddle of the same row in rear of the comber-board is the last. 2d. This principle reversed, thus arranging the leasing from rear to front.

The latter method is the one most generally observed. Every row in depth of comber-board is leased separately, and in rotation secured to the lease-twines,aandb, inFig. XXIV., thus forming an uninterrupted line of heddles through the entire Jacquard harness. Through these heddles the warp is afterwards drawn in rotation.

This tie-up contains in its principle the foundation of all the others. Three methods are in common use, which we will now explain.

This tie-up is represented inFig. XXV.

Fig. XXV.

As mentioned in the heading of this article, the Jacquard harness, or the leashes, are fastened to the machine in rotation from front to rear, the threading of the comber-board being done from rear to front. The comber-board is in three divisions. The machine used for illustrating is a 400 Jacquard 8-row machine, and the comber-board used is also 8 rows deep. This method of tying-up of the leashes forms what is technically known as “open harness.” As the drawing is designed to explain a 400 machine, 8 rows drawn in the comber-board, also 8 rows deep, one row in height of the cylinder will equal one row in depth on the comber-board. In examining the illustration the eye must follow the line connecting thenumbers on the neck-cords to the corresponding numbers near the holes on the comber-board. If this be done, the tie-up will readily explain itself. It will also explain the method of procedure if a machine is used containing a different number of needles and hooks, and a comber-board having as many rows in depth as there are griffe-bars in the machine. For example, a 600 machine, with 12 griffe-bars, needs for this tie-up a comber-board 12 rows deep; and a 200 machine, with 8 griffe-bars, requires a comber-board 8 rows deep, etc., etc.

Fig. XXVI.

The drawing shows a comber-board with 3 divisions, each division furnishing one harness-cord to each neck-cord, making in all three harness-cords to every neck-cord. The same tie-up will apply should the drawing contain a different number of divisions. The illustration shows only the first and last rows of each division in the comber-board, and also the first and last rows of neck-cords.

The design below the drawing represents a damask fabric to be executed on this tie-up, requiring the whole number of needles for one repeat of the pattern of 400 threads. In designing for these tie-ups it is necessary to arrange the design to repeat itself in the number of needles that will be used in producing the fabric. The first and last threads must connect with each other, without interruption, forming a continuous design over all the divisions. Thus we find, in fabric design of a damask towel,Fig. XXVI., the repeat (division) fromAtoB. In the centre of the design markeda, and the main part of the border markedc, we find one repeat; whereas bordersbandb´repeat 8 times.

In the fabric illustrated by design,Fig. XXVII., again a damask towel, the repeat, or one division, is also indicated byAtoB. The centre of the fabric,a, repeats twice in one division; bordersbandb´repeat four times in the same distance; whereas the main design of the border indicated bycrequires one complete division.

Fig. XXVII.

Fig. XXVIII.

This is the second method for the straight-through tie-up, and is illustrated inFig. XXVIII.The Jacquard harness is fastened to the machine, at the neck-cords, from rear to front. The threading of the comber-board is also from rear to front. In this method the work of attaching the leashes to the neck-cords is commenced in the rear instead of the front of the machine, thus giving a different view and arrangement of the tie-up. This disposition of the threads is called a “sectional harness arrangement.”

The illustration shows a 400 Jacquard or 8-row machine, in connection with an 8-row deep comber-board, with one row in the comber-board requiring a corresponding row on the face of the cylinder. It will also explain the method of procedure with this tie-up in Jacquard machines with comber-boards of different sizes.

Fig. XXIX.represents the perforated board at the bottom of the machine through which the neck-cords pass, attaching the leash to the neck-cords. The first row, containing neck-cords numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8, and the 50th row, containing those numbered 393, 394, 395, 396, 397, 398, 399, and 400, are the only ones shown inFig. XXVIII.illustrating the tie-up. The comber-board is dividedinto four sections; hence, the drawing, as represented inFig. XXVIII., calls for a fabric with 1600 ends in width. 400 ends, or any number dividing into 400, can be used for the repeat of the pattern. The method followed in the illustration may be applied to any size of Jacquard machine, and also to any required number of divisions in the comber-board.

Fig. XXIX.

In ascertaining the number of hooks or needles for one repeat of the design, determine accurately if the repeat of the weave employed for bindingthe groundor the figure divides evenly into this number. For example, take bottom board,Fig. XXIX., calling for 400 hooks and 400 needles. Suppose the ground weave to be an 8-leaf satin, and the design to repeat once in the 400 hooks. 400 ÷ 8 = 50 repeats, showing an equal division But suppose a 12-leaf satin is used; it is obvious that 12 is not an even factor of 400, as the division shows a remainder of 4. To dispose of this remainder two methods are open:

First. Omit last 4 ends and use only 396 hooks, a multiple of 12, giving 33 repeats; or,

Second. Add 8 hooks from the reserve rows, elsewhere previously alluded to, thus increasing the number to 408, which is also a multiple of 12, giving 34 repeats.

The English system, which is widely used, has the Jacquard machine so adjusted upon the loom as to have the cylinder lengthways, running in the same direction as the comber-board; or, what is the same thing, running in the direction of the width of the fabric. [SeeFig. XXX.]

Fig. XXX.

The 8 hooks of one cross-row (one hook from each of the 8 griffe-bars) run in thedirection from the cloth beam towards the warp beam. Having the same number of rows in depth, in comber-board as there are griffe-bars, one may readily see the advantages of this tie-up. The first row in depth of the comber-board contains harness-cords from neck-cords 1 to 8. The second row deep of comber-board contains harness-cords from neck-cords 9 to 16, finishing each division on the last (25th) row, with harness-cords from neck-cords 193 to 200.

Should we have a 600 machine, with 12 rows, the comber-board would also have 12 rows, as the 600 machine contains 12 griffe-bars. The first row of the comber-board receives the harness-cords from Nos. 1 to 12; the second row from Nos. 13 to 24, and so on, finishing on the last (50th) row of comber-board with 589 to 600.

This method of arranging the tying-up of the Jacquard harness is based upon the necessity for producing patterns having a larger number of warp-threads than the Jacquard used has needles. The principle to be observed is found in producing small effects which repeat themselves in the general design.

The number of cords for the leashes depends upon the frequency with which these repeats occur. Fabrics with stripe effects offer greater opportunities for reducing the number of hooks and needles than other designs.Fig. XXXI.illustrates such a design with its tie-up, using a 400 Jacquard machine with 8 rows. The pattern shows four distinct effects, as follows:

Fig. XXXI.

The next subject to consider is the different arrangement of repeated effects in one division. Commence at the left-hand side of the fabric sketch with effectA, which repeats only once in one pattern or one division. The illustration shows two divisions, and also that each hook of rows 1 to 16, inclusive, in the first division can be connected with each hook of rows 1 to 16, inclusive, in the second division, because these rows produce the same effect in the design, which repeats itself in these two places. This connection forms what is technically called a leash, and it will always be found that for every harness-cord a leash contains, there will be found a repeat in the design to correspond.

EffectBis repeated four times in the design, or in each division. By having two divisions for the illustration we find that to produce the necessary repeats in the design each hook of rows 17 to 21, inclusive, requires 8 harness-cords to each leash.

EffectCrepeats twice in one pattern or one division. Having two divisions for the illustration, each hook of row 22, including row 34, requires 4 harness-cords to each leash.

EffectDrepeats once in pattern, once in division. This will give a result similar toA, two divisions, row 35, including row 50, with two harness-cords to each leash. This tie-up illustrates the first row of every effect, and also the last leash, 400.

Adding the number of warp-threads in the full repeat of the pattern, we have:

Or, in other words, we are producing with a “straight-through tie-up for repeated effects” on a 400 Jacquard machine, a design, which would require a 600 machine on a common straight-through tie-up, including the two reserve rows, or 624 needles; in other words, a saving is made of 224 needles in one full repeat of the pattern.

In designing for looms tied up for similar styles, the repeats of effects must be kept in mind. The general style of every design may be changed, but the arrangement of the repeated effects cannot be altered without changing the entire Jacquard harness.

As mentioned in the beginning of this work, every Jacquard machine contains two reserve rows, which may be used for various purposes. One of the purposes to which these rows are frequently put is the enlargement of the design of the fabric by using harness on the front of the comber-board, technically known as “front harness.” For example, in damask table-cloths, we may use the Jacquard harness for producing the border of the fabric. The centre part may be produced with front harness, forming a checkerboard, or some similar effect. This process may be reversed by designing the centre of the table-cloth for the Jacquard harness, and the border for the front harness.

Fig. XXXII.

A third method is to design part of the centre and part of the border for the Jacquard harness, the other parts being designed for the front harness. This tie-up is also used to a great extent in the manufacture of dressgoods, etc., where stripe effects produced by the front harness, alternate with floral or geometrical designs produced by the Jacquard harness.

InFig. XXXIII.the centre of a table-cloth cover is shown to further illustrate this method of tying-up. One-half of the width of the design is for the Jacquard harness; the other half is for the front harness. To produce the required checkerboard effect these front harness are used here in two distinct sets.

The 1st set = 5 harness, working on the 5-leaf satin warp for face, alternating with the

2d set = 5 harness, working on the 5-leaf satin filling for face.

If only 8 front harness should be used for the design, we should have the

Set 1 to alternate with set 2 to form the check. Care must be taken that the number of checks formed by the front harness are evenly arranged to the figured part of the fabric. For example,Fig. XXXIII., in the front harness part of the design shows 5 warp checks and 5 filling checks in one row, = 10 checks.

Fig. XXXIII.

Suppose 10 front harness are used and 20 warp-threads allowed for each check; then 20 × 10 = 200 warp-threads, all used for effects by the front harness.

This requires 200 warp-threads for figure effects to be used by the Jacquard harness.

The repeat of the pattern is therefore 400 warp-threads, which is produced by straight-through tie-up, front harness attached, with 200 hooks and needles forFIGURE PARTof the design,plus10 hooks and needles forCHECKERBOARD PARTof the fabric taken from the 16 hooks and needles of 2 reserve rows, leaves 6 hooks and needles for selvedge, etc.

As previously stated, the front harness may be used for dressgoods fabrics. In this way the design may be enlarged to any required extent.

Fig. XXXII.illustrates this method, using an 8-row Jacquard machine, with 4 front harness adjusted, in common use for the manufacture of dressgoods fabrics, damasks, etc.

Fig. XXXIV.

Fig. XXXIV.shows a fabric designed for dressgoods forming an all-over-set pattern. In this design partsFandF´´must be executed with the Jacquard leashes; partsGandGcan be executed with front harness. For example: partsFandF´´require each 100 hooks, the ground part to be woven in 4 harness broken twill. We find the answer as to number of warp-threads in the repeat and number of hooks required for weaving as follows:

The centre tie-up, also called the point tie-up, has for its purpose the enlargement of the design in fabrics such as table-covers, dressgoods, etc. This tie-up resembles in its principle that of a common point-draw on the harness-loom. After drawing from front to rear once straight through the entire set of harness, draw from rear to front and repeat. The only difference between harness-work and Jacquard work is in the fact, that with harness we commence to draw in from the first harness straight through to the last,AtoB, and back again,BtoC; but with the Jacquard tie-up on this method this is arranged through the threading of the comber-board, having a straight-through leasing of the heddles and drawing in of the warp.

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