Friday June 20th 1806. Our hunters set out early this morning; most of them returned before noon. R. Feilds killed a brown bear the tallons of which were remarkably short broad at their base and sharply pointed this was of the speceis which the Chopunnish call Yah-kar. it was in very low order and the flesh of the bear in this situation is much inferior to lean venison or the flesh of poor Elk. Labush and Cruzatte returned late in the evening with one deer which the former had killed. we also caught seven salmon trout in the course of the day. the hunters assured us that their greatest exertions would not enable them to support us here more than one or two days longer from the great scarcity of game and the difficult access of the country, the under brush being very thick and great quantities of fallen timber. as we shall necessarily be compelled to remain more than two days for the return of Drewyer and Shannon we determined to return in the morning as far as the quawmash flatts and indeavour to lay in another stock of meat for the mountains, our former stock being now nearly exhausted as well as what we have killed on our return. by returning to the quawmash flatts we shall sooner be informed whether or not we can procure a guide to conduct us through the mountains; should we fail in procuring one, we have determined to wrisk a passage on the following plan immediately, because should we wait much longer or untill the snow desolves in such manner as to enable us to follow the road we cannot hope to reach the United States this winter; this is that Capt. C. or myself shall take four of our most expert woodsmen with three or four of our best horses and proceed two days in advance taking a plentiful) supply of provision. for this party to follow the road by the marks which the baggage of the indians has made in many places on the sides of the trees by rubing against them, and to blaize the trees with a tomahawk as they proceeded. that after proceeding two days in advance of hungary creek two of those men would be sent back to the main party who by the time of their return to Hungary Creek would have reached that place. the men so returning would be enabled to inform the main party of the probable success of the preceeding party in finding the road and of their probable progress, in order that should it be necessary, the main party by the delay of a day or two at hungary creek, should give the advance time to mark the road through before the main party could overtake them, and thus prevent delay on the part of the rout where no food is to be obtained for our horses. should it so happen that the advance could not find the road by the marks on the trees after attempting it for two days, the whole of then would return to the main party. in which case we wold bring back our baggage and attempt a passage over these mountains through the country of the Shoshones further to the South by way of the main S. Westerly fork of Lewis's river and Madison or Gallatin's rivers, where from the information of the Chopunnish there is a passage which at this season of the year is not obstructed by snow, though the round is very distant and would require at least a month in it's performance. The Shoshones informed us when we first met with them that there was a passage across the mountains in that quarter but represented the difficulties arrising from steep high and rugged mountains and also an extensive and barren plain which was to be passed without game, as infinitely more difficult than the rout by which we came. from the circumstance of the Chopunnish being at war with that part of the Shoshones who inhabit the country on this side of the Mountains through which the road passes I think it is highly probable that they cannot be well informed with rispect to the road, and further, had there been a better road in that quarter the Shoshones on the East fork of Lewis's river who knew them both would not have recommended that by which we came to this country. the travelling in the mountains on the snow at present is very good, the snow bears the horses perfictly; it is a firm coase snow without a crust, and the horses have good foot hold without sliping much; the only dificulty is finding the road, and I think the plan we have devised will succeed even should we not be enabled to obtain a guide. Although the snow may be stated on an average at 10 feet deep yet arround the bodies of the trees it has desolved much more than in other parts not being generally more than one or two feet deep immediately at the roots of the trees, and; of course the marks left by the rubing of the indian baggage against them is not concealed. the reason why the snow is comparitively so shallow about the roots of the trees I presume proceeds as well from the snow in falling being thrown off from their bodies by their thick and spreading branches as from the reflection of the sun against the trees and the warmth which they in some measure acquire from the earth which is never frozen underneath these masses of snow. Bratton's horse was also discovered to be absent this evening. I presume he has also returned to the flatts.
Friday June 20th 1806 The hunters turned out early in different directions, our guiggers also turned out with 2 guigs a Bayonet fixed on a pole, a Scooping nett and a Snar made of horse. near the ford of the Creek in a deep hole we killed Six Salmon trout & 2 others were killed in the Creek above in the evening. Reubin Field killed a redish brown bear which was very meagure. the tallons of this bear was remarkably Short broad at their base and Sharply pointed, this was of the Species the Chopunnish call Yahkar. as it was in very low order the flesh was indifferent. Labiesh & Crusat returned late in the evening with one deer which the former had killed. the hunters assured us that, their greatest exertions would not enable them to support us here more than one or two days longer, from the great scercity of game and the dificuelt access of the Country, the under brush being very thick and great quantities of fallen timber. as we shall necessarily be compelled to remain more than two days for the return of Drewyer & Shannon we determine to return in the morning as far as the quawmash flatts, and endeaver to lay in another Stock of meat for the mountains, our former Stock now being nearly exhosted as well as what we have killed on our rout. by returning to the quawmash flatts we Shall Sooner be informed wheather or not we can precure a guide to conduct us through the Mountains; Should we fail in precureing one, we are deturmined to wrisk a passage on the following plan immediately, because Should we wait much longer, or untill the Snow disolves in Such manner as to enable us to follow the road we cannot expect to reach the U States this Winter; this is that Capt. L. or myself shall take four of our most expert woods men with 3 or four of our best horses and proceed two days in advance takeing a plentiful Supply of provisions. for this party to follow the road by the mark the indins have made in many places with their baggage on the Sides of the trees by rubbing against them, and to blaize the trees with a tomahawk as they proceed. that after proceeding two days in advance of Hungary Creek, two of those men would be sent back to the party who by the time of their return to hungary Creek would have reached that place. the men So returning would be enabled to inform the main party of the probable Suckcess of the proceeding party in finding the road and of their probable progress, in order that Should it be necessary, the main party by a delay of a day or two a hungary Creek, should give the advance time to make the road through before the main party could overtake them, and thus prevent delay on that part of the rout where no food is to be obtained for our horses. Should it So happen that the advance Should not find the road by the marks of the trees after attempting it for two days, the whole of them would return to the main party. in which Case we would bring back our baggage and attempt a passage over the Mountains through the Country of the Shoshones further to the South, by way of the main S Westerly fork of Lewis's river and Madisons or Gallitins river's, where from the information of the Chopunnish, there is a passage where at this season of the year is not obstructed by snow, though the round is very distant and would require at least a month in it's preformance. The Shoshones informed us when we first met with them that there was a passage across the Mountains in that quarter but represented the difficuelties arriseing from Steep ruggid high mountains, and also an extensive and barren plain which was to be passed without game, as infinitely more difficuelt than the rout by which we Came. from the Circumstance of the Chopunnish being at war with that part of the Shoshones who inhabit the Country on this side of the Mountains through which the road passes, I think it is highly probable they cannot be well informed with respect to the road, and further, had there been a better road in that quarter the Shoshones on the East fork of Lewis's river who knew them boath would not have recommend'd that by which we came to this country. The travelling in the Mountains on the Snow, at present is very good, the Snow bears the horses perfectly; it is a firm coase Snow without a crust, and the horses have good foot hold without slipping much; the only dificuelty is finding the road, and I think the plan we have devised will Suckceed even Should we not be enabled to obtain a guide. altho the Snow may be Stated on an average at 10 feet deep, yet arround the body of the trees it has disolved much more than in other parts, not being generally more than one or two feet deep imediately at the roots of the trees, and of course the marks made by the rubbing of the Indian baggage against them is not Concealed. The reason why the Snow is comparitively So Shallow about the roots of the trees, 1 prosume proceeds as well from the Snow in falling being thrown off from their bodies by the thick and Spreading branches, as from the reflection of the Sun against the trees and the warmth which they in Some measure acquire from the earth which is never frozen underneath those masses of Snow. 4 of our horses are absent.
Saturday June 21st 1806. We collected our horses early set out on our return to the flatts. we all felt some mortification in being thus compelled to retrace our steps through this tedious and difficult part of our rout, obstructed with brush and innumerable logs of fallen timber which renders the traveling distressing and even dangerous to our horses. one of Thompson's horses is either choked this morning or has the distemper very badly I fear he is to be of no further service to us. an excellent horse of Cruzatte's snagged himself so badly in the groin in jumping over a parsel of fallen timber that he will evidently be of no further service to us. at the pass of Collin's Creek we met two indians who were on their way over the mountain; they had brought with them the three horses and the mule that had left us and returned to the quawmash grounds. these indians returned with us about 1/2 a mile down the creek where we halted to dine and graize our horses at the same place I had halted and remained all night with the party on the ____ of Septembr last. as well as we could understand the indians they informed us that they had seen Drewyer and Shannon and that they would not return untill the expiration of two days; the cause why Drewyer and Shannon had not returned with these men we are at a loss to account for. we pressed these indians to remain with us and to conduct us over the mountain on the return of Drewyer and Shannon. they consented to remain two nights for us and accordingly deposited their store of roots and bread in the bushes at no great distance and after dinner returned with us, as far as the little prarie about 2 miles distant from the creek, here they halted with their horses and informed us they would remain untill we overtook them or at least two nights. they had four supenumery horses with them. we sent on four hunters a head to the quawmash flatts to take an evenings hunt; they so far succeeded as to kill one deer. we left Reubin and J. Feilds at the Creek where we dined together with Sergt Gass in order to hunt about that place untill our return. at seven in the evening we found ourselves once more at our old encampment where we shall anxiously await the return of Drewyer and Shannon.
Saturday June 21st 1806 We collected our horses early and Set out on our return to the flatts. we all felt Some mortification in being thus compelled to retrace our Steps through this tedious and difficuelt part of our rout, obstructed with brush and innumerable logs and fallen timber which renders the traveling distressing and even dangerous to our horses. one of Thompsons horses is either choked this morning or has the distemper badly. I fear he is to be of no further Survice to us. an excellent horse of Cruzatt's snagged himself So badly in the groin in jumping over a parcel of fallen timber that he will eventually be of no further Survice to us. at the pass of Collin's Creek we met two indians who were on their way over the mountains, they had brought with them the three horses and the Mule which had left us and returned to the quawmash ground. those indians returned with us about 1/2 a mile down the Creek where we halted to dine and graze our horses. as well as we Could understand the indians they informed us they had Seen Geo Drewyer & Shannon, and that they would not return untill the expiration of two days. the cause why Drewyer & Shannon did not return with these men we are at a loss to account for. we pressed those indians to remain with us and conduct us over the Mountains on the return of Drewyer & Shannon. they consented to remain two nights for us and accordingly deposited their Stores of roots & Bread in the bushes at no great distance and after Dinner returned with us, as far as the little prarie about 2 Miles distance from the Creek, here they halted with their horses and informed us they would remain untill we overtook them or at least 2 nights. they had four Supernoumery horses with them. We Sent on four hunters a head to the quawmash flatts to make an evening hunt; they So far Suckceeded as to kill one deer. We left R. and Jo. Fields at the Creek where we dined, and Sergt. Gass in order to hunt about that place untill our return. at 7 in the evening we found ourselves once more at our old encampment where we Shall anxiously await the return of Drewyer & Shannon.
Sunday June 22nd 1806. this morning by light all hands who could hunt were sent out; the result of this days perfomance was greater than we had even hoped for. we killed eight deer and three bear. we dispatched Whitehouse to the Kooskooske near our old encampment above Collins's Creek in order to procure some Salmon which we have understood the natives are now taking in considerable quantities near that place. we gave Whitehouse a few beads which Capt. C. had unexpectedly found in one of his waistcoat pockets to purchase the fish. nothing further worthy of notice occurred in the course of this day. the last evening was cool but the day was remarkably pleasent with a fine breize from the N. W. neither Drewyer Shannon nor Whitehouse returned this evening.—Potts's legg is inflamed and very painfull to him. we apply a poltice of the roots of Cows.-
Sunday June 22nd 1806 This morning by light all hands who Could hunt were Sent out, the result of the days performance was greater than we had even hopes for. we killed eight Deer and three Bear. we despatched whitehouse to the Kooskooke near our old encampment above Collins Creek in order to precure Some Salmon which we understood the nativs are now takeing in considerable quantities near that place. we gave whitehouse a fiew beeds which I unexpectedly found in one of my waistcoat pockets to purchase the fish. nothing further occured in the Course of this day. the last evening was Cool but the day was remarkably pleasant with a fine breeze from the N. W. neither Shannon Drewyer nor whitehouse returned this evening.—Potts legg is inflamed and very painfull to him. we apply a poltice of the root of Cowes
Monday June 23rd 1806. Apprehensive from Drewyer's delay that he had met with some difficulty in procuring a guide, and also that the two indians who had promised to wait two nights for us would set out today, we thought it most advisable to dispatch Frazier and Wiser to them this morning with a vew if possible to detain them a day or two longer; and directed that in the event of their not being able to detain the indians, that Sergt. Gass, R & J. Feilds and Wiser should accompany the indians by whatever rout they might take to travellers rest and blaize the trees well as they proceeded and wait at that place untill our arrivall with the party. the hunters as usual wer dispatched early this morning. the does now having their fawns the hunters can bleat them up and in that manner kill them with more facility and ease. the indians pursue the game so much on horseback in this neighbourhood that it is very shye. our hunters killed 4 deer and a bear today. at 4 P.M. Drewyer Shannon and Whitehouse returned. Drewyer brought with him three indians who had consented to accompany us to the falls of the Missouri for the compensation of two guns. one of those men is the brother of the cutnose and the other two are the same who presented Capt. Clark and myself each with a horse on a former occasion at the Lodge of the broken arm. these are all young men of good character and much respected by their nation. we directed the horses to be brought near camp this evening and secured in such manner that they may be readily obtained in the morning being determined to make an early start if possible.—Colter one of our hunters did not return this evening.
Monday June 23rd 1806 Apprehensive from Drewyer & Shannons delay that they had met with Some dif icuelty in precureing a guide, and also that the two indians who had promised to wait two nights for us would Set out today, we thought it most adviseable to dispatch Wizer & Frazier to them this morning with a view if possible to detain them a day or two longer; and directed that in the event of their not being able to detain the indians, that Sergt. Gass, Jo. & R. Field & Wiser Should accompany the Indians by whatever rout they might take to travellers rest and blaize the trees well as they proceeded, and wait at that place untill our arival with the party. the hunters as usial were dispatched early this morning. The does now haveing their young the hunters can blait them up, and in that manner kill them with more facillity and ease. the indians pursue the game So much on horse back in this neighbourhood that it is very Shye. our hunters killed ____ deer today. at 4 P.M. Shannon Drewyer & Whitehouse returned. Shannon & Drewyer brought with them three indians who had consented to accompany us to the falls of the Missouri for the Compensation of 2 guns. one of those men is the brother of the Cutnose and the other two are the Same who presented Capt L. and myself with a horse on a former occasion at the Lodge of the broken arm, and the two who promised to pursue us in nine nights after we left the river, or on the 19th inst. Those are all young men of good Charrector and much respected by their nation. those men infor us that thir nation as well as the Wallar-wallars have made peace with the Shoshones agreeable to our late advice to them. they also inform us that they have heard by means of the Skeetsomis Nation & Clarks river that the Big bellies of Fort de Prarie Killed great numbers of the Shoshons and Otte lee Shoots which we met with last fall on the East fork of Lewis's river and high up the West fork of Clarks river &c.
We directed the horses to be brought near Camp and secured in Such a manner that they may be readily obtained in the morning being deturmined to make an early Start if possible-.—Colter one of our hunters did not return this evening
Tuesday June 24th 1806. We collected our horses early this morning and set out accompanyed by our three guides. Colter joined us this morning having killed a bear, which from his discription of it's poverty and distance we did not think proper to send after. we nooned it as usual at Collins's Creek where we found Frazier, solus; the other four men having gone in pursuit of the two indian men who had set out from Collins's Creek two hours before Frazier and Wizer arrived. after dinner we continued our rout to Fish Creek a branch of Collins's Creek where we had lain on the 19th & 20th inst. here we found Sergt. Gass Wiser and the two indians whom they had prevailed on to remain at that place untill our arrival; R. & J. Feilds had only killed one small deer only while they lay at Collins's Creek and of this they had been liberal to the indians insomuch that they had no provision; they had gone on to the branch of hungary Creek at which we shall noon it tomorrow in order to hunt. we had fine grass for our horses this evening.
Tuesday June 24th 1806 We collected our horses early this morning and Set out accompanied by our 3 guides. Colter joined us this morning haveing killed a Bear, which from his discription of it's poverty and distance we did not think proper to send after. We nooned it as usial at Collins's Creek where we found Frazier, solus; the other four men haveing Born in pursute of the two indians who had Set out from Collin's Creek two hours before Fraziers arrival Wiser arrived there. after dinner we Continued our rout to fish Creek a branch of Collin's creek where we had lain the 15th 18th 19th & 20th inst. here we found Sargt. Gass, Wiser and the two indian men whome they had prevaild on to remain at that place untill our arival; Jos. & R. Field had killed one Small deer only while they lay at Collins creek, and of this they had been liberal to the indians insomuch that they had no provisions; they had gone on to the branch of hungary Creek at which we shall noon it tomorrow in order to hunt. we had fine grass for our horses this evening.
Wednesday June 25th 1806. last evening the indians entertained us with seting the fir trees on fire. they have a great number of dry lims near their bodies which when set on fire creates a very suddon and immence blaze from bottom to top of those tall trees. they are a beatifull object in this situation at night. this exhibition reminded me of a display of fireworks. the natives told us that their object in seting those trees on fire was to bring fair weather for our journey.—We collected our horses readily and set out at an early hour this morning. one of our guides complained of being unwell, a symptom which I did not much like as such complaints with an indian is generally the prelude to his abandoning any enterprize with which he is not well pleased. we left them at our encampment and they promised to pursue us in a few hours. at 11 A.M. we arrived at the branch of hungary creek where we found R. & J. Feilds. they had not killed anything. here we halted and dined and our guides overtook us. at this place I met with a plant the root of which the shoshones eat. it is a small knob root a good deel in flavor an consistency like the Jerusalem Artichoke. it has two small oval smooth leaves placed opposite on either side of the peduncle just above the root. the scape is only about 4 inches long is round and smooth. the roots of this plant formed one of those collections of roots which Drewyer took from the Shoshones last summer on the head of Jefferson's river. after dinner we continued our rout to hungary Creek and encamped about one and a half miles below our encampment of the 16th inst.—the indians continued with us and I beleive are disposed to be faithfull to their engagement. I gave the sik indian a buffaloe robe he having no other covering except his mockersons and a dressed Elkskin without the hair. Drewyer and Sheilds were sent on this morning to hungry Creek in surch of their horses which they fortunately recovered.
Wednesday June 25th 1806 last evening the indians entertained us with Setting the fir trees on fire. they have a great number of dry limbs near their bodies which when Set on fire create a very Sudden and eminence blaize from bottom to top of those tail trees. they are a boutifull object in this Situation at night. this exhibition remide me of a display of firewoks. the nativs told us that their object in Setting those trees on fire was to bring fair weather for our journey-. We Collected our horses and Set out at an early hour this morning. one of our guides Complained of being unwell, a Symptom which I did not much like as such complaints with an indian is generally the prelude to his abandoning any enterprize with which he is not well pleased. we left 4 of those indians at our encampment they promised to pursue us in a fiew hours. at 11 A.M. we arrived at the branch of hungary Creek where we found Jo. & R. Fields. they had not killed anything. here we halted and dined and our guides overtook us. at this place the squaw Collected a parcel of roots of which the Shoshones Eat. it is a Small knob root a good deel in flavour and Consistency like the Jerusolem artichoke. it has two Small Smooth oval leaves placed opposit on either Side of the peduncle just above the root. the scope is only about 4 inches long is round and Smooth. the roots of this plant forms one of the Colection of roots which D-. took from the Shoshones last fall on the head of Jefferson river. after dinner we continued our rout to hungary creek and encamped about one and a half miles below our Encampment of the 16th inst.—The indians all continue with us and I beleive are disposed to be faithfull to their engagements. Capt. L. gave the Sick indian a Small buffalow robe which he brought from the Missouri, this indian having no other Covering except his mockersons and a dressed Elk Skin without the hair-. Drewyer & Shields were sent on this morning to hungary Creek in serch of their horses which they fortunately recovered.—-came ____ miles to daye.
Thursday June 26th 1806. This morning we collected our horses and set out after an early breakfast or at 6 A.M. we passed by the same rout we had travelled on the 17th inst. to our deposit on the top of the snowey mountain to the N. E. of hungary Creek. here we necessarily halted about 2 hours to arrange our baggage and prepare our loads. we cooked and made a haisty meal of boiled venison and mush of cows. the snow has subsided near four feet since the 17th inst. we now measured it accurately and found from a mark which we had made on a tree when we were last here on the 17th that it was then 10 feet 10 inches which appeared to be about the common debth though it is deeper still in some places. it is now generally about 7 feet. on our way up this mountain about the border of the snowey region we killed 2 of the small black pheasant and a female of the large dommanicker or speckled pheasant, the former have 16 fathers in their tail and the latter 20 while the common pheasant have only 18. the indians informed us that neither of these speceis drumed; they appear to be very silent birds for I never heared either of them make a noise in any situation. the indians haistened to be off and informed us that it was a considerable distance to the place which they wished to reach this evening where there was grass for our horses. accordingly we set out with our guides who lead us over and along the steep sides of tremendious mountains entirely covered with snow except about the roots of the trees where the snow had sometimes melted and exposed a few square feet of the earth. we ascended and decended severall lofty and steep hights but keeping on the dividing ridge between the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers we passed no stream of water. late in the evening much to the satisfaction of ourselves and the comfort of our horses we arrived at the desired spot and encamped on the steep side of a mountain convenient to a good spring. having passed a few miles our camp of 18 Sepr 1805 here we found an abundance of fine grass for our horses. this situation was the side of an untimbered mountain with a fair southern aspect where the snows from appearance had been desolved about 10 days. the grass was young and tender of course and had much the appearance of the greenswoard. there is a great abundance of a speceis of bear-grass which grows on every part of these mountains it's growth is luxouriant and continues green all winter but the horses will not eat it. soon after we had encamped we were overtaken by a Chopunnish man who had pursued us with a view to accompany me to the falls of the Missouri. we were now informed that the two young men whom we met on the 21st and detained several days are going on a party of pleasure mearly to the Oote-lash-shoots or as they call them Sha-lees a band of the Tush-she-pah nation who reside on Clark's river in the neighbourhood of traveller's rest. one of our guides lost 2 of his horses, which he returned in surch of; he found them and rejoined us a little before dark.
Thursday June 26th 1806 We collected our horses and Set out early and proceeded on Down hungary Creek a fiew miles and assended to the Summit of the mountain where we deposited our baggage on the 17th inst. found every thing Safe and as we had left them. the Snow which was 10 feet 10 inches deep on the top of the mountain, had sunk to 7 feet tho perfectly hard and firm. we made Some fire Cooked dinner and dined, while our horses Stood on snow 7 feet deep at least. after dinner we packed up and proceeded on. about the borders of the Snowey region we killed 2 Small black pheasents and a female of the large dommanicker or Speckled pheasent, the former have 16 feathers in the tail and the latter 20 while the common Pheasent have 18. the indians informed us that neither of these Speces drumed; they appear to be very Silent birds for I never heard any of them make any noise. the Indians hastened us off and informed us that it was a considerable distance to the place they wished to reach this evening where there was grass for our horses. accordingly we Set out with our guides who led us over and along the Steep Sides of tremendious Mountains entirely covered with Snow except about the roots of the trees where the Snow was partially melted and exposed a Small Spot of earth. we assended and decended Several Steep lofty hights but keeping on the dividing ridge of the Chopunnish & Kooskooske river we passed no Stream of water. late in the evening much to the Satisfaction of ourselves and the Comfort of the horses we arived at the desired Spot and Encamped on the Steep Side of a Mountain Convenient to a good Spring. here we found an abundance of fine grass for our horses. this Situation was the Side of an untimbered mountain with a fair Southern aspect where the Snow from appearance had been disolved about 10 days, the grass was young and tender of course and had much the appearance of the Green Swoard. there is a great abundance of Species of bear grass which grows on every part of those Mountains, its growth is luxurient and continues green all winter but the horses will not eate it. Soon after we had encamped we were over taken by a Chopunnish man who had pursued us with a view to accompany Capt Lewis to the falls of Missouri. we were now informed that the two young men we met on the 21st and detained Several days were going on a party of pleasure mearly to the Oat-lash-shoots or as they call them Sha-lees a band of the Tush-she-pah Nation who reside on Clarks river in the neighbourhood of the Mouth of Travelers rest. one of our Guides lost 2 of his horses, he returned in Serch of them he found them & rejoined us at Dark. all of the Indians with us have two & 3 horses each. I was taken yesterday with a violent pain in my head which has tormented me ever Since, most violently
Friday June 27th 1806. We collected our horses early and set out. the road still continued on the heights of the same dividing ridge on which we had traveled yesterday for nine miles or to our encampment of the 18th of September last. about one mile short of this encampment on an elivated point we halted by the request of the Indians a few minutes and smoked the pipe. on this eminence the natives have raised a conic mound of stones of 6 or eight feet high and on it's summit erected a pine pole of 15 feet long from hence they informed us that when passing over with their familes some of the men were usually sent on foot by the fishery at the entrance of Colt Creek in order to take fish and again met the main party at the Quawmash glade on the head of the Kooskooske river. from this place we had an extensive view of these stupendous mountains principally covered with snow like that on which we stood; we were entirely surrounded by those mountains from which to one unacquainted with them it would have seemed impossible ever to have escaped; in short without the assistance of our guides I doubt much whether we who had once passed them could find our way to Travellers rest in their present situation for the marked trees on which we had placed considerable reliance are much fewer and more difficult to find than we had apprehended. these fellows are most admireable pilots; we find the road wherever the snow has disappeared though it be only for a few hundred paces. after smoking the pipe and contemplating this seene sufficient to have damp the sperits of any except such hardy travellers as we have become, we continued our march and at the distance of 3 ms. decended a steep mountain and passed two small branches of the Chopunnish river just above their forks and again ascended the ridge on which we passed several miles and at a distance of 7 ms. arrived at our encampment of September near which we passed 3 small branches of the Chopunnish river and again ascended to the dividing ridge on which we continued nine miles when the ridge became lower and we arrived at a situation very similar to our encampment of the last evening tho the ridge was somewhat higher and the snow had not been so long desolved of course there was but little grass. here we encamped for the night having traveled 28 miles over these mountains without releiving the horses from their packs or their having any food. the indians inform us that there is an abundance of the mountain sheep or what they call white buffaloe. we saw three black-tailed or mule deer this evening but were unable to get a shoot at them. we also saw several tracks of those animals in the snow. the indians inform that there is great abundance of Elk in the vally about the Fishery on the Kooskooske River. our meat being exhausted we issued a pint of bears oil to a mess which with their boiled roots made an agreeable dish. Potts's legg which has been much swolen and inflamed for several days is much better this evening and gives him but little pain. we applyed the pounded roots and leaves of the wild ginger & from which he found great relief.—neare our encampment we saw a great number of the yellow lilly with reflected petals in blume; this plant was just as forward here at this time as it was in the plains on the 10th of may.
Friday June 27th 1806 We collected our horses early and Set out. the road Still Continue on the hights of the Dividing ridge on which we had traveled yesterday for 9 Ms. or to our encampment of the 16th Septr. last. about 1 m. Short of the encampment we halted by the request of the Guides a fiew minits on an ellevated point and Smoked a pipe on this eminance the nativs have raised a conic mound of Stons of 6 or 8 feet high and erected a pine pole of 15 feet long. from hence they informed us that when passing over with their families some of the men were usually Sent on foot by the fishery at the enterance of Colt Creek in order to take fish and again meet the party at the quawmash glade on the head of Kooskoske river. from this place we had an extencive view of these Stupendeous Mountains principally Covered with Snow like that on which we Stood; we were entirely Serounded by those mountains from which to one unacquainted with them it would have Seemed impossible ever to have escaped, in short without the assistance of our guides, I doubt much whether we who had once passed them could find our way to Travellers rest in their present Situation for the marked trees on which we had placed Considerable reliance are much fewer and more difficuelt to find than we had apprehended. those indians are most admireable pilots; we find the road wherever the Snow has disappeared tho it be only for a fiew paces. after haveing Smoked the pipe and Contemplating this Scene Sufficient to have dampened the Spirits of any except Such hardy travellers as we have become, we continued our march and at the dist. Of 3 m. decended a Steep mountain and passed two Small branches of the Chopunnish river just above their fok, and again assend the ridge on which we passed. at the distance of 7 m. arived at our Encampment of 16th Septr. last passed 3 Small branches passed on a dividing ridge rugid and we arived at a Situation very Similar to our Situation of last night tho the ridge was Somewhat higher and the Snow had not been So long disolved of course there was but little grass. here we Encamped for the night haveing traveled 28 Ms. over these mountains without releiveing the horses from their packs or their haveing any food. the Indians inform us that there is an abundance of the Mountain Sheep, or what they Call white Buffalow on those Mountains. we Saw 3 black tail or mule deer this evening but were unable to get a Shoot at them. we also Saw Several tracks of those animals in the snow. our Meat being exhosted we issued a point of Bears Oil to a mess which with their boiled roots made an agreeable dish. Jo. Potts leg which had been much Swelled and inflaimed for several days is much better this evening and givs him but little pain. we applied the poundd root & leaves of wild ginger from which he found great relief. Near our encampment we saw great numbers of the Yellow lilly with reflected petals in blume; this plant was just as foward here at this time as it was in the plains on the 10th of May. My head has not pained me so much to day as yesterday and last night.
Saturday June 28th 1806. This morning we collected our horses and set out as usual after an early breakfast. several of our horses had straggled to a considersble distance in surch of food but we were fortunate enough to find them in good time they look extreemly gant this morning, however the indians informed us that at noon we would arrive at a place where there was good food for them. we continued our rout along the dividing ridge passing one very deep hollow and at the distance of six miles passed our encampment of the 16 of September last, one and a half miles further we passed the road which leads by the fishery falling in on the wright immediately on the dividing ridge about eleven O'clock we arrived at an untimbered side of a mountain with a Southern aspect just above the fishery here we found an abundance of grass for our horses as the Indians had informed us. as our horses were very hungary and much fatiegued and from information no other place where we could obtain grass for them within the reach of this evening's travel we determined to remain at this place all night having come 13 miles only. the water was distant from our encampment we therefore melted snow and used the water principally. the whole of the rout of this day was over deep snows. we find the traveling on the snow not worse than without it, as the easy passage it gives us over rocks and fallen timber fully compensate for the inconvenience of sliping, certain it is that we travel considerably faster on the snow than without it. the snow sinks from 2 to 3 inches with a hors, is coarse and firm and seems to be formed of the larger and more dense particles of the snow; the surface of the snow is reather harder in the morning than after the sun shines on it a few hours, but it is not in that situation so dense as to prevent the horse from obtaining good foothold. we killed a small black pheasant; this bird is generally found in the snowey region of the mountains and feeds on the leaves of the pine and fir. there is a speceis of small whortleburry common to the hights of the mountains, and a speceis of grass with a broad succulent leaf which looks not unlike a flag; of the latter the horses are very fond, but as yet it is generally under the snow or mearly making it's appearance as it confined to the upper parts of the highest mountains.
Saturday June 28th 1806 This morning we Colected our horses and Set out as usial after an early brackfast. we continued our rout along the dividig ridge over knobs & through deep hollows passed our encampmt of the 14 Sept. last near the forks of the road leaving the one on which we had Came one leading to the fishery to our right imediately on the dividing ridge. at 12 oClock we arived at an untimberd side of a mountain with a southern aspect just above the fishery here we found an abundance of grass for our horses as the guids had informed us. as our horses were hungary and much fatiegued and from information no other place where we could obtain grass for them within the reach of this evening's travel we deturmined to remain at this place all night haveing come 13 m. only. the water was distant from our Encampment we therefore melted Snow and used the water. the whole of the rout of this day was over deep Snow. we find the travelling on the Snow not worse than without it, as easy passage it givs us over rocks and fallen timber fully compensates for the inconvenience of sliping, certain it is that we travel considerably faster on the snow than without it. the Snow Sinks from 2 to 3 inches with a horse, is course and firm and seems to be formed of the larger particles the surface of the snow sees to be rather harder in the morning than after the Sun Shines on it a fiew hours, but it is not in that situation so dense as to prevent the horses from obtaining good foothold. I killed a Small black pheasant; this bird is generally found in the Snowey region of the mountains and feeds on the leaves of the pine & fir. there is a Species of Small huckleberry common to the hights of the mountains, and a Species of grass with a broad succulent leaf which looks not unlike a flag; of the latter the horses are very fond, but as yet it is generally under the Snow, or mearly makeing it's appearance as it confined to the upper part of the highest mountains.