Mesh No. 17; foundation 72 stitches wide.
Net 4 plain rows; net 1 row putting the silk twice round the mesh; in the next row net the 2nd stitch first, (in netting it half turn it), then net the 1st in the same way; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. Net 3 plain rows. Net 1 row putting the silk twice round the mesh, then a row netting the 2nd stitch first, and so on until the purse is wide enough.
N.B. This purse is very pretty with only 2 small rows instead of 4, and netted in shades of different colors.
Mesh No. 17, and as many needles as you wish to have squares.
Net 6 stitches in pink silk backwards and forwards for 12 rows; net 6 stitches of brown silk, beginning at the distance of 6 stitches from the pink; pass the brown silk through the loop of the pink, and when the rows form alternate squares of pink and brown, begin with the pink over the brown, and the brown over the pink.
Mesh No. 14; a foundation 72 stitches wide.
Every row is alike. After the needle has been drawn through the stitch (as in common netting), before pulling the stitch tight, it is passed under that part of the silk which goes through the stitch.
Mesh No. 15, and a foundation of 60 or 70 stitches.
Net 1 row. 2nd row, net the 2nd stitch first then net the first, passing the needle through the second as well as the first, to join them together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 3rd row, plain netting. 4th row, net a stitch, miss a stitch, net the next, then net the stitch you missed, passing the needle through the last stitch, (it will be seen that the object in netting a stitch before beginning the pattern is to prevent the joined stitches being over each other); repeat the 2 last stitches to the end of the row, netting the last stitch.
Begin on a foundation of 60 stitches, with a mesh No. 15. Net a row, passing the silktwice round the mesh. 2nd row, (once round the mesh,) net the 2nd stitch first, half turning it, then net the other plain, net the 4th, half turning it, then the 3rd plain, repeat these stitches until the row is finished. Begin again with the 1st row.
Mesh No. 17, and foundation of 60 stitches.
Net the 1st row, passing the silk twice round the mesh every stitch. 2nd row, pull the 1st stitchthroughthe 2nd from the back, net it; pull the 2nd stitch through themiddleof the 1st, (taking care not to twist it), net it; pull the 3rd through the 4th, net it; pull the 4th through themiddleof the 3rd, net it; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. Begin again with the 1st row, netting 1 stitch plain before beginning the pattern.
On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 plain row. 2nd row, pass the 2nd stitch through the 1st, net it, (in netting it give it a twist so as to half turn it); net the 1st; pass the 4th through the 3rd (half turning it) and net it; net the 3rd; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. Begin again with the first row. Next row net the 1st stitch plain before beginning the pattern.
On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 row passing the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd row; put the side of the 2nd stitch which is nearest the 1st over it, draw it quite through so as to twist the 2 stitches together, half turn and net it, net the first; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. Next row begin again.
In two colors.
Fill 2 needles with 2 colors which contrast well. The purse should be 80 or 90 stitches wide. Fasten on both needles together and net alternate stitches with each, reversing the colors every row. Except in this change of color, every row is the same.
On a round foundation with mesh No. 18; 80 stitches will make a purse four inches wide.
Net 1st stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 2nd stitch once round, 3rd stitch twice round, 4th stitch once round, and so on alternately. When the round is finished, (it will finish by a stitch once round the mesh,) drawout the mesh, put it in one of the long stitches and net the round; every other stitch will be a loop stitch; the round finishes with a loop stitch. Continue these alternate rounds until the purse is long enough for the opening to be begun; then instead of nettingroundthe purse, turn back and net from side to side. The 1st stitch in the 1strowis onceroundthe mesh, the 2nd twice, the 3rd once, the 4th twice, 5th once, &c. In the 2nd row, the first stitch has the silk passed twice round the mesh; it is then taken at its full length and the row continued, each alternate stitch being a loop stitch. When the slit is long enough, (after either 14 or 16 rows,) begin to net round again. If after 14 rows, the 1st stitch in beginning to net round the purse will be once round the mesh.
On a round foundation of 40 stitches, and with a mesh No. 17 or 18.
Net 2 rounds plain. Begin the nextroundby putting the silk twice round the mesh for the 1st stitch, net 3 stitches, with the silk once round the mesh; repeat these 4 stitches until the round is completed. Take out the mesh and put it in again at the full length of one of the long stitches; net the following stitch, (which will be a long one), net the next a loop stitch, then net the 2 next close to the mesh and slip them off: begin again with netting the long stitch, the loop stitch, the 2 close to the mesh, slip them off; repeat these 4 stitches to the end of the round, finishing of course with 2 stitches close to the mesh. Begin the next round with 2 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch, 1 stitch close to the mesh, (this stitch must always be slipped off the mesh before netting the next); repeat these stitches to the end of the round. Next round net 3 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch; repeat these stitches to the end of the round. Begin again with the 1st round, viz.—1 stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 3 with the silk once round, and proceed as directed until the purse is long enough to begin the opening,which should be begun in a round after that in which you put the silk twice round the mesh for 1 stitch, and once round it for 3. To make the opening: for the 1st stitch pass the silk twice round the mesh, take it out and put it in again at the full length of the 1st stitch, net a stitch, net a loop stitch, net 2 close to the mesh, slip them off, &c. as directed before. When the slit is long enough, begin to net inroundsinstead ofrows, taking care to make the diamond stitches match.
Four needles are required.
Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 5. 1st round; bring the silk forward knit 1 stitch, bring the silk forward slip 1 stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 taken together, repeat this all round. 2nd round; plain knitting. 3rd round, is the same as the 1st. 4thround plain knitting. 5th round; bring the silk forward, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward slip a stitch, knit 2 taken together pull the slipped stitch over, repeat the same all round. 6th round plain knitting. Begin again.
Four needles are required.
Cast 30 stitches on each of three needles. Knit a plain round. In beginning the next round, knit the 2nd stitch (instead of the first,) knit the first; knit the 4th, then the 3rd, the 6th and 5th, and continue the same until the purse is long enough.
No. 2.
With 2 needles.
Cast on 60 or 80 stitches; bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches and passthe slipped stitch over the 2 knitted ones; repeat the same to the end of the row. Every row is alike.
No. 3.
With 2 needles.
Cast on any number of stitches which will divide by 3; bring the silk forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted; bring the silk forward slip a stitch, &c. to the end of the row. Knit a plain row and begin again.
No. 4.
On 2 needles.
Bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 and pass the slipped stitch over the 2 which are knitted, repeat the same to the end of the row; knit a plain row. These 2 rows form thepattern, but in the 3rd row you must commence by knitting 2 stitches before beginning the pattern, in order that the 1st of the 2 knitted stitches may come over the hole, and for the same purpose you must begin the 6th row by knitting 1 stitch.
This purse is very pretty knitted in 2 colors, alternately 2 rows of each.
No. 5.
Two needles.
Cast on the desired number of stitches. Knit 1 row taking 2 stitches together. 2nd row, turn the thread round the needle to make a stitch, rib a stitch, make a stitch as before, rib a stitch, &c. to the end of the row. 3rd row, plain knitting; in the 4th row, which is ribbed when you come to the hole, knit the stitch belonging to this and that of the last row together, repeat the same with every hole. Begin again at the 1st row.
No. 6.
Two needles.
Cast on 90 stitches, slip the 1st stitch and finish the row taking 2 stitches together every time, knit the last stitch. 2nd row, slip the 1st stitch, and with the thread twice round the needle knit to the last stitch, which is to be knitted plain. 3rd row, slip the 1st stitch, pick up the thread which is across the hole with the left hand needle and knit it with the next stitch (which is taken at full length) after twinging the thread forward. Bring the thread forward again, pick up the thread which is across the hole and knit it with the next stitch, continue the same to the last stitch which is knitted. 4th row, slip the 1st stitch, knit the 2nd, pick up the thread which is across the hole and knit it with the stitch which is over the hole, continue the same to the end of the row. Begin again at the 1st row.
No. 7.
Knit the 1st row (except the 1st and last stitches which are knitted plain in every row) taking 2 stitches together. Knit a plain row. 3rd row, slip a stitch, bring the silk forward, pick up the thread which is across the hole, taking care not to twist it, and knit it with the next stitch, continue the same to the end of the row; the 4th row is plain knitting. Begin again at the 1st row.
Net a plain row on a foundation the desired length. 2nd row, net to where you wish to place a bead, slip a bead close up to the last knot and net a stitch; repeat the same wherever you wish to place a bead, and the next row will fix these in their places.
With the bead on the knot.
Thread a bead needle with some of your netting silk; net a plain row; net to where you wish to place a bead, thread 1 bead and slip it close to the mesh, net the next stitch, slip the bead under the mesh close up to the last knot, and pass your needle and netting silk through the bead, which fixes it on the knot; repeat the same wherever you wish to place a bead. This netting may be done either round or open.
For a Purse.
This purse is knitted in 2 colors, it must be done with very fine needles and 11 little balls of fine knitting silk.
Cast on 8 stitches of the 1st color and 8 of the 2nd alternately until you have 80 stitches, using a new ball for each change of color, 2nd row, knit the 8 stitches of the 1st color, passthatsilk round the silk of the 2nd color and bring it forward; with the 2nd colored silk knit the 8 stitches of the 2nd color, pass it round the next silk and bring it forward; continue the same to the end of the row. Knit on in the same manner for 14 rows, then to change the color take another ball of your 2nd color and join it on at the beginning of your row, knit with the 2nd color 1 stitch, pass the 1st color forward, knit 1 stitch with the 2nd color, pass the 1st back, knit 1 with the 2nd, pass the 1st forward, and the same for the 8 stitches. You will now find that you have 2 threads of the 2nd color and 1 of the 1st together, pass 1 thread of the 2nd color round the others and bring it forward, knit 1 stitch with the 1st color, bring forward the other thread of the 2nd color, knit 1 stitch with the 1st, pass the 2nd back, knit 1 with the 1st, and continue the same for the rest ofthe 8 stitches, when you will find 2 threads of the 1st color, and 1 of the 2nd together; twist and bring forward 1 thread of the 1st color, and knit the others as you did those of the 2nd color in the last square. Finish the row in this manner, then knit as at first until another row of squares is completed; reverse the color again.
This is a nice pattern for a carriage mat done with very large needles and stout wool, and also for many other things, as from being neat on both sides it does not require lining.
Fine cotton and needles No. 17 or 18.
Cast on 62 stitches. Knit 3 rows. In the next row slip a stitch, knit 5, decrease by knitting 2 together, knit until only 8 are left on the left hand needle, knit 2 taken together, knit the rest, (6 on each side arealwaysknitted plain for the border.) Knit a plain row, repeat these2 last rows, (decreasing 2 stitches in every other row) twice. Slip a stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward and purl to the border stitches, decreasing at the beginning and end of the purled stitches. A plain row. Slip a stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward, decrease, purl the rest, decreasing again before the border stitches. A plain row. Slip a stitch, knit 5, decrease, knit the rest, decreasing before the border stitches. Slip 1, knit 5, purl to the border stitches. Slip 1, knit 5, decrease, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, repeat these stitches, decrease, knit to the border. Slip a stitch, knit 5, purl the rest, knit the border stitches. A plain row, decreasing as before. The last 10 rows to be repeated, decreasing 2 stitches every other row until 14 stitches are left; after this every row is plain knitting, still decreasing every other row until only 2 stitches are left, knit them; in the next row knit them together, and draw the cotton through the last stitch.
Cast on 72 stitches. Knit 3 rows; the first stitch of every row isslippedthroughout the pattern. In the 4th row knit 4 stitches, counting the slipped stitch as one, decrease with the 5th, knit 60, decrease, knit the remaining 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, knit 58, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, bring the cotton forward, purl 56, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, repeat the last 6 stitches seven times, slip 2, knit 2, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 2, slip 2,62-*purl 4, slip 2 and purl 4, seven times, slip 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 4, decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2 and knit 4, seven times, knit 1, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c. ending, the row with 1 purled stitch and 5 knitted. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decrease 1, and knit the4 last stitches. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 48, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, &c. ending the row with knitting 1 stitch, decreasing 1 and knitting 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2, purl 4, &c. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5, bring the cotton forward, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5, slip 2, decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decreasing 1 stitch in the last 4, slip 2, knit 5. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 40, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, and so on to the end. It will be seen that care is taken to place the 2 middle stitches of the 4 over the stitches which were slipped in the last pattern; when the decrease comes on the slipped stitch it is madenoton that but in the following 4. Continue to decrease 2 in every other row. When only 10 stitches are left, every row is plain knitting, decreasing as before every other row until you have only 2 stitches, knit them together and pass the cotton through the last stitch.
For a Quilt.
Cast on 2 stitches; knit them. 3rd row, knit 1 stitch, increase a stitch at the back of the first stitch, knit the 2nd and increase again. 4th row, plain knitting. 5th row, knit 2, stitches, increase 1 in the 2nd, increase again in the 3rd, knit the 4th. 6th row, plain knitting. 7th row, knit 2 stitches, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 2. 8th row, knit 3, purl 2, knit 3. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3. Knit 4, purl 2, knit 4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, increase 1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3. Knit 4, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 1, increase 1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 2, knit 2, &c. increasing before the last 3. Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, &c.Continue to increase 2 stitches every other row until there are 72, knitting and purling the stitches so as to make them lay in ribs; decrease as you increased, ending with 2 stitches, knit them together.
For a Quilt.
Cast on 74 stitches. Knit 6 rows. The first stitch in every row is always slipped. Knit 2 stitches, decrease 1, bring the cotton forward slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted; repeat these stitches until only 4 are left on the left hand needle, decrease 1 and knit the 2 last. Knit 3 stitches, purl 66, knit the 3 last. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted, repeat these stitches until only 4 stitches are left on the needle, decrease, and knit 2. Knit 3, purl 64,knit 3. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit 2, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over those which are knitted; repeat these stitches, as before, decrease and knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 62, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease 1, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped over the knitted stitches, repeat these 3 stitches, bringing the cotton forwardbeforeslipping the 1st; when only 4 are left decrease, and knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 60, knit 3. Repeat these alternate rows, decreasing 2 stitches every other row (taking care that thefirstslipped stitch is immediately before the stitch which is over the hole) until only 6 stitches are left. Knit every row plain decreasing as before until only 2 stitches are left, knit them together and pass the cotton through the remaining stitch.
Any number of stitches may be set up, that will divide by 3. Slip the 1st stitch, bringthe cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit a stitch, pull the 2nd slipped stitch over the 3rd stitch; repeat these 3 stitches to the end of the row. 2nd row, plain knitting. 3rd row ribbed. Then begin with the first row again.
A few plain knitted stitches for a border are a great improvement.
Cast on any even number of stitches. Ribeachrow with the exception of 3 stitches on each side for the border, which are knitted plain. When you have 4 ribs on the right side, knit a plain row. Knit the 3 border stitches, leave the cotton on the outside of the needle and rib 2 stitches taken together, this makes a loop stitch; pass the cotton back and repeat these 2 stitches until you come to the border. The next row is plain knitting. Then rib again backwards and forwards until you come to the row before the holes, which is again to be plain knitting. To be sure that yourpattern is right you must be able to count 7 ridges on the wrong side, and 4 on the right.
For a Quilt.
Two needles No. 16, and medium sized cotton.
Cast on 101 stitches (or any uneven number). 1st row, knit the second stitch first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th, and repeat the same until you come to the last, which knit. 2nd row, purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you were going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the right hand and purl it. Repeat the same to the last stitch, which is to be purled. Begin again at the 1st row.
Two needles No. 14, and coarse cotton.
Cast on 28 stitches. 1st row, rib 4, knit 12, rib 4, knit 4, rib 4. 2nd row, all purled. 3rd row is the same as the 1st. 4th row, purl. 5th row, the same as the 1st. 6th row, purl. 7th row, same as the 1st. 8th row, purled. 9th row, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12, knit 4, purl 4. The back rows are all purled. 11th, 13th, and 15th like the9th. 17th, 19th, 21st, and 23rd rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 12, purl 4. 25th 27th 29th and 31st rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12. 33rd 35th 37th and 39th rows, purl 4, knit 20, purl 4. 41st, 43rd, 45th and 47th rows, purl 12, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, and purl 4. Begin again with the 1st row.
For a Quilt Border.
Cast on 57 stitches, 10 on each side are for the border, and are always plain knitting. Knit the border, knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 7, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, and repeat from the border: your number of stitches should always be the same. Back row, knit the border stitches, and rib the rest;everyback row is the same. Knit to where you decreased last, bring the cotton forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 5 stitches, decrease by taking 2 stitches in 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 3, repeat the last 12 stitches to the border. Back row. You are to continue increasing and decreasing in the same manner until you have only 3 stitches between the increases, then decrease at the sides of the diamond which you havemade by increasing, and increase on each side before and after the decrease. You will now have enough of the pattern done to see how to proceed.
Observe that when you have only 3 stitches at the top of the diamond you have been decreasing, and the back row is done, you begin to decrease the other diamond. Also, that after the 1st diamond is done, your greatest number of plain stitches between the decrease will be 5.
Cast on 90 stitches. Knit the 1st stitch, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, &c. to the end of the row, where you will find but 1 stitch to knit after the last slipped stitch. Continue the pattern (observing to begin every row with one plain knitted stitch) until you have enough in length, then cast off.
This border in crimson cotton or German lambs’-wool, is a nice finish to a dark cloth cover.
In 2 colors; for a Table cover or Shawl.
Cast on 28 stitches with the first color. Knit 2 stitches with the 2nd color, knit 2 stitches with the 1st color, 2 with the 2nd, 2 with the 1st, and continue the same to the end of the row, which will be 2 stitches of the 1st color. Begin the next row by knitting 2 stitches of the 1st color, pass the thread forward, place it under the thumb of the left hand, pass the 2nd color back and knit 2 stitches, continue the same to the end of the row, and then begin again at the 2nd row only observing to knit the 2nd color over the 1st and the 1st over the 2nd. After 2 more rows, reverse the colors again.
When you have a sufficient length cast off 20 stitches and unravel 8 for the Fringe.
It will require 2 needles No. 12, and Scarlet German Lambs’-wool.
Cast on 86stitches; knit and rib 4 stitches alternately, but as 86 cannot divide by 4, you must knit 5 instead in two places in the course of the row. After 4 rows in this manner reverse the knitting and ribbing for 4 rows; continue this pattern for about a quarter of a yard, (and also for 12 stitches at each end of every succeeding row) and commence the second pattern between the 12 border stitches. 1st row; knit 2 stitches taken together, plain knit 8 stitches, rib 3; repeat the same until you come to the 12 stitches of the border. 2nd row; (after the border) rib 8 stitches, bring the wool forward, give it a twist round the needle (to increase 1 stitch) and rib 1 stitch, knit 3, repeat this to the border. 3rd row; knit 2 stitches, knit 2 taken together, knit 6, rib 3, &c. 4th row; rib 6 stitches, increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. 5th row; knit 4,take 2 together, knit 4, rib 3, &c. 6th row; rib 4, increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 7th row; knit 6, take 2 together, rib 3, &c. 8th row; rib 2, increase 1, rib 7, knit 3, &c. 9th row; knit 8, knit 2 together, rib 3, &c. 10th row; rib 1, increase 1, rib 8, knit 3, &c. 11th row; knit 6, knit 2 taken together, knit 2, rib 3, &c. 12th row; rib 3, increase 1, rib 6, knit 3, &c. 13th row; knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 4, rib 3, &c. 14th row; rib 4, increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 15th row; knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 6, rib 3, &c. 16th row; rib 6, increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. Begin again at the 1st row of the second pattern, and repeat the pattern until the scarf is nearly long enough, then finish with the border as at first. Sew the undermentioned edge to the sides and a piece of Scarf Fringe to the ends.
Two needles and gold colored flox silk.
Cast on 6 stitches. 1st row; bring the silkforward and knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 taken together. 2nd row; knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 taken together, knit 2 stitches.
A repetition of these 2 rows forms the pattern.
Two needles No. 7.
Cast on 80 stitches; pass the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit a stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 1 stitch, rib 1 stitch, continue this to the end of the row; every row is the same.
This scarf takes about 2½ ounces of German lambs’-wool; it requires a wide fringe at the end and is very pretty if knitted with shaded ends, which are done by using successively 2 skeins of 5 or 6 shades of the desired color, beginning with the darkest.
On a foundation of 54 stitches.
Net successively 6 rows of the following colors; waterloo blue, scarlet, amber, blue, yellow, scarlet, dark blue, amber, scarlet, light blue, amber, and scarlet.
Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.
Cast 36 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit 4 stitches, bring the wool forward, knit a stitch—this is the centre stitch of the pattern—bring the wool forward, knit 4 stitches, slip a stitch taking it under, knit 2 taken together, pull the slipped stitch over it, then begin knitting the 4 stitches, &c. It is better at the end of each needle to knit 1 stitch off the next one, as it prepares for the next round; continuethis for 6 rounds, increasingbeforeandafterevery centre stitch, and knitting to within 1 of where you decreased, which stitch slip, knit the next 2 together, and pull the slipped stitch over it. Knit 3 plain rounds. Knit to within 1 stitch of the centre stitch, slip it; knit 2 together, these 6 rounds increase each side of the stitch with which you decreased in the last pattern, which makes that the centre stitch this time.
Your number should always be the same as you began with: it is easy to count the number of rounds you have done, at the place where you decrease.
This boa is knitted with the wrong side outwards. When finished, fill it with cotton wool and put strings to it.
Two ivory needles and rather fine lambs’-wool are required.
Cast on 44 stitches, knit 7 rows, then knit 2inches, knitting and ribbing 2 stitches alternately; knit 8 rows, continue plain knitting and increase at the beginning and ending of every 4th row; when you have 60 stitches knit 4 rows, then decrease in the same proportion as you increased until you have but 52 stitches; knit 6 rows, and finish to match the top. Sew them up.
Large Size.
Cast on 68 stitches, knit 38 rows; cast on 14 stitches, knit 26 rows, cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 26, knit 68 rows, cast off 26 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 26 rows, cast off 14 stitches, knit 38 rows.
The Sleeve.
Cast on 45 stitches, knit 90 rows, decrease 1 in each row, which leaves a narrow bit to tackto the shoulder strap, and leaves the sleeve open under the arm.
Cast on 54 stitches; knit 38 rows, cast on 14 stitches, knit 14 rows; cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows. Cast on 26 stitches, knit 66 rows, cast off 26 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 14 rows, cast off 14 stitches, and knit 38 rows.
Sleeves.
Cast on 43 stitches, add 1 stitch each row until there are 60, knit 9 rows. Decrease 1 stitch in each row for 8 rows, then 3 in each row for 19.
Two needles, No. 11.
Cast on 60 stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 2 taken together, and continue to knit in the same manner for 10 rows, then knit (still observing the same stitch) 6 stitches, (2 repetitions of the pattern), and back; knit 12 stitches and back; 18 and back; and knit backwards and forwards in this manner advancing 6 stitches farther each time until you have but 6 stitches left behind, then knit fewer stitches by 6 than in the last row, and knit backwards and forwards receding 6 stitches each time until you knit only 6 and return: you have now completed the first of the gussets which shape the tippet. Knit 6 stitches, bring the thread forward as if to continue the pattern, pick up a stitch between the stitches and purl it, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 2 together; continue the same stitch to the end of the row without anymore increase. In the next row knit 2 stitches in the increased stitch, and in the following row, when you come to the increased stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 1 (instead of 2,) you have thus added 1 stripe to your row; knit 4 rows, and in the next row begin to add another stripe to your row within the first 6 stitches; by the time this stripe is made, you will have knitted 10 entire rows. Knit 6 stitches and return, and knit as before (for the gusset) until you come to the row in which you knit to within 6 of the end, then knit a smaller number each time until you knit only 6 stitches and return. Knit a whole row, increasing after the 6th stitch, and add 2 stripes to the row, (as described in the 48th row.) Knit in the gusset again, and then in 10 whole rows add 2 stripes as before; knit the gusset, (which of course increases in size with the increased number of stitches.) Add 2 stripes. Knit a gusset. Knit 6 stitches, pass the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, take 2 stitches upon another needle, slip another stitch, and, passing the 2 stitches, knit the 4 stitchestogether, bring the thread forward and goon. In the next row, when you come to where you have decreased, it will be necessary to knit 3 stitches together instead of 2. Decrease in the same manner twice in the 10 complete rows. Knit in a gusset. Decrease 4 times in the 10 whole rows. Knit a gusset. Knit 20 whole rows. This completes half of the cape; the other half must be knitted to correspond, only that you must increase where before you decreased, and decrease where you increased.
With moderately fine cotton and 5 needles.
Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles: increase 2 stitches on each needle; in the next round, increase 1 stitch on each needle; make a seam in the middle of each needle and increase on each side of it every other round, until you have a sufficient number of stitchesfor the size of your cap. Leave off seaming the middle stitches and knit round until your cap is ¾ of a yard long, then finish the end like the beginning, decreasing where you before increased.
French Pattern.
Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, knit round increasing them to 4, next round increase 1 on each needle and make seams of the centre stitches. Knit round increasing 1 stitch on each side of the seam (leaving 3 stitches between the 2 that are increased) on each needle. When your cap is large enough round, leave off seaming and knit round until the cap is ¾ of a yard long: make the end like the beginning.
Cast on each of 3 needles 18 or 24 stitches according to the size of the sleeve wished for; knit and rib 3 stitches alternately until the sleeve is about 3 inches long. Then take coarser needles and coarser lambs’-wool and knit plain until the sleeve is nearly long enough, and finish by ribbing it again for about an inch and a half.
To be worn on the head on leaving heated rooms.
A mesh ¾ of an inch wide and one ¼ that width are required. It may be netted in flox silk or fine lambs’-wool.
Net a row of 60 stitches and back again with the large mesh (these are the middle rows).Net a row with the fine mesh. The next row is netted with the large mesh 3 stitches in each stitch, then a row with the fine mesh taking each stitch separately. Afterwards a row with the large mesh 2 stitches in each of the first 60 stitches, 1 in each of the next 60, and 2 in each of the rest; a narrow row; a Wide row without increase; a narrow row; a wide row 3 stitches in each stitch. Repeat these rows on the other side, beginning at the first narrow row.
Run a ribbon through the middle rows, sew the ends to the ribbon and the Cephaline is made.
Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 11; begin with the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 6 stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 1 stitch; repeat these 11 stitches all round. A plain round. Knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton forward, slipa stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 4, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward and knit 2 stitches; repeat these 11 stitches all round. A plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 2, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 3, repeat these round. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 4, repeat these 11 stitches round. A plain round. Knit 4 stitches, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 5 stitches. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, knit 2 together, bring the cotton forward, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over, knit 3; repeat these stitches round. You will perceive that this round begins another round of diamonds, and that you increase from the point of the diamond, and decrease the other half diamond to a point.
Four needles are required.
Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 8, bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 6, repeat these 8 stitches all round. Knit a plain round. Bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it; knit 3, knit 2 taken together, repeat this all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward, knit 3 stitches, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, repeat this all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward knit 3 stitches, repeat this all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 2taken together, bring the thread forward knit 4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 5, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches taken together, bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 3, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 3 stitches, bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward and repeat the last 8 stitches all round. Plain round. Now you will see you are to begin decreasing the 5 stitches of the smaller diamonds; and you have enough of the pattern done to see how to proceed. The 3 middle stitches of the larger diamond arealwaysplain knitting, and the 1st decrease is done with the remaining stitch of the small diamond.
As this is knitted round, 4 needles are required. It is very pretty for a purse or mitten.
Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 13. Begin with the thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch, thus increasing 2 loop stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, twice, knit 1 stitch, this is the centre stitch of one stripe, decrease twice, increase twice, and repeat these 13 stitches all round. Knit 3 rounds. Repeat these 4 rounds.
Four needles are required.
Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 7. Begin with the thread forward, knit 1 stitch, decrease by taking 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch, decrease 1 stitch, increase 1stitch, repeat these 7 stitches all round, and knit 2 rounds plain. Repeat these 3 rounds.
For the sole cast on 10 stitches and knit 3 rows. Knit on, increasing 1 stitch near the middle of every alternate row until you have 20 stitches. Increase every 4th row, until you have 24 stitches. Knit 12 rows. Increase twice, 1 stitch in every 5th row. Knit 8 rows. Decrease 4 times in every 4th row. Decrease 8 times, 1 stitch in every 2nd row; twice, 1 in every 4th row. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase 9 times, 1 stitch in every 4th row. Decrease 4 times, 1 stitch in every 4th row. Decrease 3 times, 2 stitches in every 2nd row. Decrease 2 stitches in every row until only 5 stitches are left, which are to be cast off.
This is to be knitted with very coarse cotton, wound double, and needles No. 16.
For the upper part cast on 11 stitches, withneedles No. 8, and coarse lambs’-wool; increase 2 stitches in every row until you have 25 stitches. Increase 2 stitches in every other row until you have 31, then 2 stitches in every 3rd row until you have 37. Knit 2 rows plain. Knit 12 stitches backwards and forwards until long enough for the quarter. Cast off 13 stitches and knit the remaining 12 backwards and forwards, to correspond with the other side. Sew up the back and fasten in the sole on the wrong side.
In double knitting you cannot very well increase oftener than every 3 rows, as you do not complete the increase in less than 3 rows. In the 1st row knit 1 stitch behind wherever you wish to increase; in the 2nd row do the same to the stitch adjoining, and in the 3rd row when you come to the increase, knit 1stitch, and pass the next upon another needle, bring the thread forward slip a stitch and replace the one from the 3rd needle, knit it, and continue the row. You will perceive that you cannot increase less than two stitches at once.
Decreasing in double knitting can be done in 2 rows. In the 1st row knit 2knittingstitches together passing the farther one over the intervening stitch, bring the thread forward and slip 2 stitches (instead of 1). In the 2nd row 2knittingstitches will come together, knit them taken together. You cannot decrease less than 2 stitches at once.
To wear in the shoes.
Cast on 14 stitches, knit in double knitting 2 rows, increase 2 stitches in 3 rows (as directed in the preceding pattern) until you have 24 stitches. Knit 6 rows, then decrease 2stitches every 2 rows until you have but 10 stitches left. Knit 8 rows. Increase until you have 20 stitches. Knit 6 rows. Decrease 2 stitches in 2 rows until you have 12 stitches left, decrease 4 stitches in 2 rows twice and cast off the remaining 4 stitches.
Four ivory needles and coarse lambs’-wool are required.
Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round 2 stitches plain and 2 ribbed alternately until it is 4 inches long, then take another coloured lambs’-wool and knit 2 rounds of 2 stitches plain and 2 ribbed, decrease in the middle of one needle 1 stitch on each side of a rib for 20 rows; knit 3 inches more without decreasing, then 2 inches with the 1st color, 1 inch with the 2nd, and fasten off by drawingthe lambs’-wool through 2 stitches at a time and knotting it. Sew up the boot at the bottom.
Cast on 60 stitches. Knit 3 or 4 rows plain. Knit about 20 turns in double knitting; this will make it 14 inches in length and 7 inches in depth. Knit 12 turns plain and 10 turns double knitting. Knit 2 or 3 turns plain knitting, reducing the number of stitches so as to form the crown. Fasten it up a little way behind, turn back the first part of double knitting, and run a ribbon through it.
Seven needles No. 16, are required.
Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds. Knit 1 round increasing at the back of every stitch. Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 roundincreasing at the back of every stitch, and 1 round without increase. Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round increasing 3 stitches on each needle, and 1 round plain. Rib 2 rounds. Knit and rib 2 rounds alternately, always increasing 3 stitches on each needle in the 1st plain knitted round, until you can count 7 ribbed welts. Knit 2 rounds and rib 2 rounds alternately without increasing any more for 15 welts. Knit round increasing 5 times on each needle, knit 1 plain round. Continue to knit and rib in the same manner increasing 5 stitches on each needle in the 1st knitted round until the brim is broad enough, perhaps about 13 welts, and cast off.
Have the hat made very stiff, and dried on a shape.
With needles No. 15, and fine lambs’-wool.
Cast on 25 stitches; knit a row, increase a stitch at the end. Knit 3 rows increasing atthe end of each. After this increase, at the end of every other row only, until there are 36 stitches on the needle. Take off 14 stitches on a 3rd needle and knit the 22 that are left (beginning at theslopingside) backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges, cast on 14 stitches and make this side like the other by decreasing. When this is done, put the 14 stitches on the needle again, take up 10 stitches in the middle and 14 at the side, knit 4 rows. Knit 2 stitches, increase a stitch, knit the rest increasing again in the last stitch but two. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase as before; continue to knit 4 plain rows and to increase 2 stitches in the 5th until there are 50 stitches. Knit 4 rows and decrease every 5th until there are 40. Purl and knit every alternate 2 stitches for 14 rows; finish with 4 plain rows. When knitted, the stocking must be sewn up and a ribbon run through it to tie it round the ankle.
Cast on 18 stitches; knit a row; knit a row increasing a stitch at the end; knit a row. Knit a row increasing 1 stitch at the end. A plain row. Increase every other row until there are 30 stitches on the needle. Knit 18 beginning from the sloping side, (take off the remaining 12 on a third needle,) knit backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges, cast on 12 stitches and decrease in the same proportion as you increased to make the sides match. When the foot is finished, take the 12 stitches from the 3rd needle, take up 10 stitches in the middle and 12 on the side and knit theleggingas in the last pattern. Sew it up and bind the foot with white ribbon.
Needles No. 14.
Cast on 12 stitches, knit 8 rows, counting the casting on row as one. In the 8th row make 2 holes, (1 near the straight side and one in themiddle of the row) by bringing the wool forward and knitting 2 stitches together. Increase a stitch at the end of this row and every 4th row afterwards, until you have 22 stitches. Knit 8 rows, at the end of the 8th row decrease a stitch; knit 4 rows and decrease again at the end of the 4th; after this, decrease every other row until there are only 14 stitches: knit a row and cast off. This is one side of the back; make the other to match it.
The front. Cast on 64 stitches, knit 16 rows, making holes in the 8th row as before directed, then increase by making 2 stitches in 1 six times every other row, about 14 stitches from the beginning and end of the row. Knit a row. Knit 6 stitches backwards and forwards decreasing a stitch every other row (with the needle on which the other stitches are) until only 2 are left; cast them off: if the wool be left loose it need not be broken off. Knit the stitches on the needle and make the other end like that which is finished. Knit 28 rows, gradually decreasing until only 36 stitches are left; then knit 12 stitchesbackwards and forwards for 24 rows, cast off the 12 stitches and repeat the same at the other end of the row. Sew on the backs, take up the stitches down the back, knit 6 rows and cast off. On one side leave holes for the buttonholes. Take up the stitches round the neck, knit 4 rows, make holes for the string, knit 4 rows and cast off.
The sleeve. Cast on 16 stitches. Increase gradually until you think it wide enough; decrease towards the wrist, knit and rib 2 stitches alternately for about an inch, and finish with 4 plain rows.
To be knitted in soft cotton or fine lambs’-wool. Needles No. 15.
Cast on 204 stitches. The 6firstandlaststitches are knitted every row: knit and rib the rest, knitting 6 stitches then ribbing 6. Knit 60 rows, ribbing those stitches in 1 row which were knitted in the last. After 60 rows have been done, knit and rib 60 stitches,and, instead of finishing the row, turn back and cast off 6 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row (consisting of 54 stitches), rib and knit it. Knit and rib the next row. Decrease at the beginning coming back. Repeat the last 4 rows. Then cast off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch, rib and knit the others. Cast off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch, knit and rib the rest. Cast off 6 stitches, rib and knit the rest. Knit and rib the row. Cast off 6 stitches, knit and cast off the 12 remaining. One side of the back is now finished. Begin to knit with the stitch next to the last of the 6 cast off under the arm. Knit and rib 90 stitches, turn back and cast off 6, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 76 stitches only are left. Decrease 1, rib 6, knit 6, rib 6, knit 6. Cast off 24, rib and knit the remainder. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, rib and knit the rest. Rib and knit12, cast off 6. Knit these 6 stitches backwards and forwards for the shoulder strap. Make the other side of the front and back to match, bind the stays with ribbon, and sew on strings.
To appear like a shoe and stocking. Eight steel needles, 4 No. 14, and 4 No. 20, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.
Cast 14 stitches on one of the coarse needles, with double lambs’-wool, knit 14 turns, loop 12 stitches on the same needle, 28 on the second and 12 on the third, and pick up the 14 loops on the cast on side of the piece of knitting; you will now have 80 stitches in all on the needles. Knit 6turns, decrease 1 stitch at the end of each row until you have only 70 stitches. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle of the row, knitting 1 plain stitch between; continue thus decreasing 2 stitches for the heel in the centre of every row, and one at the end for the toe, until you have 60 stitches left. Decrease2 stitches in the middle, divide the stitches in halves, 29 on each needle, and join it by knitting the two rows together ending at the toe. Pick up 14 loops on the instep, and 56 round the top of the shoe, with a different color knit oneroundand cast off; this is to look like the binding, and completes the shoe.
For the stocking use the fine needles and single wool. Take up 14 stitches on the instep, behind the chain stitch (or coloured binding). Knit 1 plain row taking up a stitch from the side and knitting that and the last stitch together. Purl 1 row knitting the last stitch and a side stitch together. Knit the next row, bringing the wool before the needle every stitch and knitting 2 stitches taken together. Knit these last 2 rows alternately until you have 12 rows of holes, remembering to take up a stitch at the side and knit it with the last stitch. Then take up 34 stitches round the shoe, behind the chain stitch, continue the pattern as on the instep, when you have 12 rows of holes above the binding, knit 1 plain round adding a stitch after every thirdstitch, making in all 64 stitches, knit 12 rounds of knitting, and purling 2 stitches alternately. Cast off. Make a small rosette of ribbon, and sew it in front of the shoe.
For a French Bed.
With a mesh 1 inch wide net 130 stitches. 195 rows will complete the curtain.
Choose any number of colored wools, or if preferred, two that contrast well. Two needles, No. 12.
Cast on 60 stitches, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, (by this you increase by a loop stitch,) bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1; repeat these stitches to the endof the row. 2nd row: bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop made last row with the next stitch, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop and stitch together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. Knit 6 more rows in the same manner, the stitch is the same throughout. Fasten on the 2nd color, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Now instead of continuing the row, turn back. Bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Continue to increase the number you slip and knit by 4 every time, until all the 60 have been knitted. Knit 8 rows of the 1st color, and proceed as before. Twelve of these divisions will make the cushion large enough. Sew it up at the side. Net a fringe with double coarse lambs’-wool to the narrow part, and run in a string to tie it tightly together under the fringe. Make a round cushion, and cover it with the knitting.
Two very coarse wooden needles and wool proportionably coarse.
Cast on 30 stitches; knit a few plain rows for the edge; then begin with the wool forward, slip 1 stitch taking it under so as not to twist it, knit 1 stitch, repeat these 2 stitches to the end of the row, and you will find you have increased 15 stitches; repeat this row with this only difference, that in future you knit the loop and stitch under it together.
These strips done in squares of different colors are very pretty.
Needles and wool the same as for the preceding pattern.
Cast on 32 stitches, knit 7 rows commonknitting; then begin double knitting,106-*knitting 4 stitches plain on each side for a border, knit about 24 rows, knit 8 rows plain and then double knitting again; continue these squares until the piece is long enough. It is very pretty if the squares are done in different colors.
Begin on a straight foundation with a mesh No. 16. Of course the number of stitches will depend on the length that is wished for. 216 will make about a yard.
Net 24 plain rows. Take a mesh ¼ of an inch wide, or a trifle wider, net 3 stitches in the 1st stitch, pass 2 stitches, net 5 stitches in the next, pass 2, and net 5 stitches in every 3rd stitch to the end of the row. Take thesmall mesh and net every stitch you have increased as a single stitch, and finish with another row on the small mesh.
Very pretty for caps.
Begin your netting on a foundation that will divide by 10. Net 9 stitches, net 9 stitches in the 10th; repeat to the end of the row. Net 3 rows, 1 stitch ineverystitch. In the next row (which will make the 5th from the increase), take the first 9 stitches as 1 stitch, net the following 9 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. Begin again.
Puff netting.
The mesh to be ¼ inch wide.
Begin on a round foundation of 71 stitches; net 3 plain rounds. In the 4th round, net 5 stitches, net 5 stitches in the 6th stitch; repeat this all round. Net 2 rounds, netting one stitch ineverystitch. In the next round take the 5 plain stitches asone, net 5 stitches, repeat all round. Begin again with the 4th round (increasing 5 stitches after the decrease). When the cap is deep enough net one round putting the cotton twice round the mesh; run a ribbon in at the top and bottom, and tie the top string tight.
Two needles No. 16.
Cast on 18 stitches, and knit about 6 rows in double knitting with the thread once round the needle, knit 9 stitches, take off the other 9 on another needle, and knit the first 9 backwards and forwards until it is long enough for a button-hole; take back the cotton and knitup the other 9 until both are even, (the loop which is left from carrying the thread down can be sewn in afterwards); knit 6 more rows double knitting, and 2 rows double knitting with the thread twice round the needle. Knit 1 row of plain knitting, increasing 1 stitch in every 2, which will make in all 27. Then in the front row; knit the 2nd stitch first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th, and repeat the same to the end, which will be 1 knitted stitch. Back row; purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you were going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the right hand and purl it: repeat this to the last stitch, which is to be purled. Repeat these 2 rows until you think it long enough, then begin double knitting, decrease to 18 stitches again, knit about 2 inches and finish in a point.
These suspenders are firmer and less elastic than those given in the first series.