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STAR-PATTERN D'OYLEY.
MATERIALS..—Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize Goat's-head Crochet Cotton, Nos. 10, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, and Penelope Crochet Hook, Nos. 3, 3-1/2, 4.
With cotton No. 26, and hook No. 3. For centre star orawork 10 chain, make it round, and in the loop you have formed work 24 d.c.; 1 s.c. in 1st d.c. ** 5 chain, miss 2, 1 s.c. in 3rd, repeat from ** 7 times more; in 1st 5 chain, * 2 long, 7 chain, 2 long in same 5 chain, 5 chain repeat from * in each 5 chain all round, fasten off.
Fasten cotton No. 24, and hook No. 3-1/2. ** In 7 chain 4 long, 4 chain turn and on the 4 chain, miss 1, 1 d.c., 2 long; 4 long in same 7 chain; 2 chain, 1 s.c. in centre of 5 chain; 2 chain repeat ** all round.
* 2 long, 1 chain, miss 1, 2 long, 1 chain, miss 1, 2 long, 7 chain, 1 long in same as last long, 1 long in next chain, 1 chain, miss 1, 2 long, 1 chain, miss 1, 2 long, miss 4. Repeat all round, * fasten off.
b. With cotton No. 24, and hook 3-1/2, 10 chain join round; work in round loop; 16 d.c.
3rd row: 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 3 chain, repeat all round.
4th: 3 long in the centre of 5 chain; 4 chain, 1 s.c. in the centre of 3 chains; 4 chain; repeat all round, fasten off.
With No. 22 cotton, and the same hook. * 1 long in 2nd long of 3 long in last row; "3 chain," 1 long in same as last; 2 chain, miss 1, 2 long, 1 d.c. in last long; miss 3, 1 d.c., 2 long, 2 chain, repeat * 7 times more only in the last point in "3 chain." Join toain the following manner: 2 chain draw through the 4th stitch of 7 chain ofa, then repeat the same as before, fasten off.
2ndb. Make the same as firstbtill the last row, where join in precisely the same way; the 1st point to centreaand two more points to 1stb; finish the row same as 1sta, and fasten off.
Make 6 moreb, joining in the same manner. You will see what points are joined in the engraving.
c. With cotton No. 30, and hook 4. 8 chain, 1 s c. in 1st: then in round loop; * 1 d.c. 5 chain repeat * 5 times more. In 1st 5 chain ** 1 d.c., 2 long, 3 chain, join to a, turn, and on 3 chain 1 d.c., 2 long: in same 5 chain, 2 long, 1 d.c. ** repeat 5 times more, joining each petal as in the engraving, fasten off.
Make 7 morecs, joining betweenaandbs in the same manner.
d. With cotton No. 22, and hook 3-1/2. 8 chain, make it round, and in loop work 12 d.c.; * 1 d.c. on 1st d.c., 5 chain, miss 1, repeat 5 times more, * then in each 5 chain; ** 2 d.c., 4 long, 2 d.c., ** fasten off.
With cotton No. 20, and hook 3-1/2. * 1 s.c. in 2nd d.c., 6 chain turn, miss 1, 1 d.c.; 4 chain repeat * 5 times more; miss 1, ** 5 long, 7 chain 1 long in same as last long; 4 long, miss 2, repeat ** 5 times more, except in the last two points, where in 4th chain stitch of 7 chain join to point ofb, fasten off. Make 7 moreds, joining as in the engraving.
e. With cotton No. 20, and hook 3-1/2. 10 chain make round; * 2 d.c. in loop; 7 chain repeat * 3 times more. ** 5 long in 7 chain, 3 chain, 5 long repeat ** 3 times more, joining, as seen in the engraving, tobandd, fasten off. Make 7 morees, joining each between twods.
f. With cotton No. 30, and hook 4. Make 7 chain, make into a loop, and in loop * 1 d.c., 4 chain join to b, turn, miss 1, 1 d.c., 2 long repeat * 5 times more; join in the same manner, and placed as in the engraving, fasten off. Make 7 more, joining them as you make them.
g. With cotton No. 28, and hook 4. * 1 d.c. on 1st d.c. ofe5 chain, miss 2, * repeat all round.
Make the tassels with No. 10 cotton, over a card 2 inches wide; wind it round the card 10 times, tie it round about half an inch down, draw the cotton tight and bring the ends to the top again, fasten to the d'oyley, as in the engraving.
Make a sufficient number to go round.
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MATERIALS..—Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize Goat's-head Crochet Thread, No. 36: and Penelope Crochet Hook, No. 5.
Make a round loop the size of this O, and then commence.
1st Round: Ch. 3, and work 1 treble for 8 times in the round loop of last round, plain 1, and fasten off.
2nd: 3 treble at the top of the one treble of last round, ch. 3, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
3rd: 5 treble at the top of the three treble of last round, ch. 3, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
4th: 7 treble at the top of the five treble of last round, ch. 3, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
CROCHET D'OYLEY.
5th: 3 treble at the top of the seven treble of last round, ch. 4, work 1 treble in the centre of the three chain of last round, ch. 4, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
6th: 3 treble at the top of the five treble of last round, ch. 5, work 1 treble at the top of the one treble of last round, ch. 2, work 1 treble in the same loop as before, chain 5, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
7th: 2 treble at the top of the three treble of last round, ch. 6, work 7 treble in the two chain of last round, ch. 6, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
8th: 1 treble at the top of the two treble of last round, ch. 8, work 7 treble at the top of the seven treble of last round, ch. 8, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
9th: 3 treble at the top of the one treble of last round, ch. 9, work 5 treble at the top of the seven treble of last round, ch. 9, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
10th: 3 treble at the top of the three treble of last round, ch. 11, work 3 treble at the top of the five treble of last round, ch. 11, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
11th: 2 treble at the top of the three treble of last round, ch. 13, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
12th: 1 treble at the top of the two treble of last round, ch. 15, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
13th: 1 treble at the top of the one treble of last round, ch. 2, work 1 treble in the same loop as before, ch. 13, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
14th: 9 treble in the centre of the two chain of last round, ch. 12, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
15th: 9 treble at the top of the nine treble of last round, ch. 6, work 1 double in the centre of the twelve chain of last round, ch. 6, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
16th: 7 treble at the top of the nine treble of last round, ch. 8, work 1 treble at the top of the one double of last round, ch. 2, work 1 treble in the same loop as before, ch. 8, and repeat round; plain 1, and fasten off.
17th: 5 treble at the top of seven treble of last round, ch. 6, work 1 treble in the centre of the two chain of last round, then ch. 3, and work one treble three times more in the same loop as before, ch. 6, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
18th: 3 treble at the top of the five treble of last round, ch. 4, work 2 treble in the first three chain of last round, ch. 3, work 2 treble in the same loop as before, ch. 1, and work the same in the next two three chains of last round, ch. 4, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
19th: 2 treble at the top of the three treble of last round, ch. 2, then work as follows in each of the three chains of last round, 3 treble, ch. 3, work 3 treble all in the first three chain of last round, ch. 2, and work the same in the next two three chains of last round, ch. 2, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off.
20th: 1 treble at the top of the two treble of last round, then work as follows in each of the three chains of last round, 3 treble, ch. 3, work 3 treble in the same loop as before, ch. 3, and repeat the same in the next two three chains of last round, repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off, which completes the d'oyley.
Contents
MATERIALS..—Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize Goat's-head Crochet Cotton, Nos. 14, 16, 18, 20, 28. Walker's Penelope Hook, Nos. 3, 3-1/2, 4.
a. With cotton No. 20 and hook 3-1/2, work 13 chains: make it round and in loop 24 d.c., 1 d.c. on d.c., 7 chain, miss 2, repeat 7 times more; in 4th chain stitch of 7 chain, 1 s.c., 12 chain, 1 s.c. in 6th chain from hook; 7 chain, 1 s.c. in same at last s.c.; 5 chain, 1 s.c., in same as last s.c., 5 chain, 1 s.c. in next chain stitch to 1st of 12 chain; 5 chain, repeat 7 times more, fasten off.
b. With cotton No. 18 and hook 3-1/4, work 10 chain, make it round, and in loop 24 d.c. * In 1st d.c. work 3 chain, 3 long, 3 chain, 1 d.c., miss 1, and repeat * 7 times more. Those only in the last, 2 long, join to 4th chain stitch of 7 chain ofa, 1 long, 3 chain, 1 d.c., fasten off. Make 7 moreb, joining to the 7 chains ofa.
ROSE D'OYLEY.
c. With cotton No. 16 and hook 3, **1 s.c. in the centre of the two 5 chains ofa, nearest the foundation: 7 chain, 1 s.c. in the centre of 5 chain; 5 chain, 1 s.c. on 2nd long of 1st division ofb; * 3 chain, 1 d.c. on next division, repeat * 5 times more, 5 chain; 1 d.c. in next 5 chain, 7 chain, repeat ** 7 times more, fasten off.
D.c. all round the chain and fasten off.
d. With cotton No. 28 and hook 4, * 7 chain, 1 s.c. in 1st chain, and in round loop 1 d.c., 4 long, 3chain; join to d.c. stitches where the two 5 chains are found together, turn, and on the 3 chain 1 d.c., 3 long; then in round loop, 4 long, 1 d.c.; then join to the d.c. on the opposite side, and fasten off. Repeat * 7 times more.
e. With cotton No. 18 and hook 3. Where you left off ind, join on No. 18 cotton; 9 chain, 1 s.c. in 5th chain; then in round loop ** 1 d.c., 5 chain, join to 5th d.c. from where you joined No. 18 cotton on; 5 chain, turn, and on 10 chain, 1 d.c., 9 long; 1 d.c. in round loop, 7 chain join to the top d.c., 3 chain. 1 s.c. in the 7th chain, 3 chain, 1 d.c. in the 7th chain; * 2 * 5 long, 1 d.c. in same as 1st d.c., 1 d.c. in round loop, repeat ** from ** without joining the 10 chain twice. The second time only work to * 2 *, work 3 long, join to 5th d.c. from where you joined No. 18 cotton on; 2 more long on 7 chain, 1 d.c.; then 3 s.c. down the stem. Make 7 more joining in the same way: fasten off.
f. With cotton No. 16 and hook 3. In 14th d.c. ofcfrom where you joined No. 18 cotton on, * 1 d.c., 4 chain, join to 1st 3 chain ofeof 1st section, 4 chain, join to 2nd 3 chain ofeof 1st section; 8 chain join to 1st 3 chain ofeof 2nd section, 3 chain, join to 2nd 3 chain ofeof 2nd section; 8 chain, join to 1st 3 chain ofeof 3rd section; 3 chain, join to 2nd 3 chain ofeof 3rd section; 4 chain, repeat all round; d.c. all round.
g. With cotton No. 16 and hook 3, 10 chain, make it round and in loop; 8 d.c. join to the same place, where you began the long chain off5 d.c., * 5 chain join to 8th d.c. offfrom where you joined the d.c.: 6 chain, turn, 1 d.c., 7 long, 1 d.c., miss 1, 1 s.c. in next d.c., repeat * 4 times more. Join in the same place only to last petal. In the last petal work down the chain as follows: 1 d.c.; 4 long, join to 8th d.c. from where you joined the 1st d.c.; 3 long, 1 d.c., fasten off. Make 7 more. Joining each as you make them.
h. With cotton No. 16 and hook 3, 15 chain, 1 s.c. in 1st stitch: then in loop; 24 d.c., * 1 d.c. on d.c., 7 chain, miss 2, repeat * 7 times more, then in each 7 chain, 9 d.c., except the last, which work as follows: 5 d.c. join to 3rd point ofg, 4 d.c. in same 7 chain.
The nexth, join in the same manner to point offmake sufficient to go round, joining alternately tog's andfs.
i. With cotton No. 14 and hook 3, ** 1 s.c. on 5th d.c. of 1st division ofh, * 5 chain, 1 s.c. in next division, repeat * 5 times more, 9 chain join to next point ofg"9 chain," 1 s.c. in next point ofg, 9 chain, repeat ** from all round; d.c. all round, and when you have come to the end of "9 chain" 4th d.c. join to the 9th d.c.; * 7 chain, miss 2, 1 d.c. in next, * repeat 9 times the 10 and 11, join to the other side and fasten off.
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MATERIALS..—Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize Goat's-head Crochet Cotton, No. 36, with a fine hook.
The pattern for this toilet cover being so elaborate, it must be worked in cotton not coarser than that we have indicated, if intended for an ordinary toilet cover. Worked in a coarser material, No. 8 or 12, of Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize Goat's-head Crochet Cotton, it would make a beautiful quilt for a small bed; and in some of the coarser sizes of the knitting cord, a large counterpane might be worked, and from the clear appearance this material presents, would look very rich and handsome.
Like all square crochet, this design must be worked from the engraving. The number of foundation chain for working it is 529, reckoning the length, or 346 for the width, if that mode of working bepreferred as less cumbersome. It will not, however, answer so well for a toilet cover, as the stitches would go the wrong way. For a counterpane, on the contrary, it would be preferable.
TOILET COVER.
For the border of a toilet cover, we should recommend one of the patterns in bead work, found in other parts of this volume. For the edge of a counterpane, nothing can be handsomer than the border and fringe of the bassinet quilt.
It should be worked with the same cotton as the centre, and the fringe a degree coarser.
Crochet counterpanes should be laid over one of the American patent quilted coverlets, which have recently been sold in London, and for invalids, especially, are so extremely comfortable.
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MATERIALS..—Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize Goat's-head Crochet Cotton, No. 14: Walker's Penelope Crochet-hook, No. 2½.
TIDY IN SQUARE CROCHET.
TIDY IN SQUARE CROCHET.
Make a chain of 289 stitches, which will form ninety-nine squares; with this cotton and hook it will measure twenty-five inches; the pattern must be worked from the engraving, and may be increased in size by using a coarser cotton and thicker hook.
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ARABESQUE TOILET-COVER IN SQUARE CROCHET.
ARABESQUE TOILET-COVER IN SQUARE CROCHET.
This pattern should be worked in Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize Goat's-head Crochet Cotton, exactly to the size of the top of the table, in rather thick cotton, to make it look massive, and to retain its form; the edging must be worked in blue beads in crochet to the pattern, and a number of beads given exactly to go round the table and to hang down, and finished with a tassel at each corner.
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MATERIALS..—Half-a-dozen skeins of each of seven shades of green wool, and four of scarlet ditto. A fine netting-needle, four knitting-needles, No. 14, and the same of No. 16.
With the darkest green wool cast on 96 stitches on each of three of the coarsest knitting-needles (that is, 288 altogether), and close into a round.
1st round: Plain knitting.
COVER FOR A HADROT LAMP.
COVER FOR A HADROT LAMP.
2nd: * knit 1, make 1, knit 6, knit 3 together, knit 6, make 1, * 18 times.
3rd: Plain knitting.
4th: Change to the darkest scarlet, and repeat the second round.
5th: Knit 7, * knit 3 together, knit 13, * 17 times; knit 3 together, knit 6.
6th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 5, knit 3 together, knit 5, make 1, * 18 times.
7th: Plain knitting.
8th: Change to the next shade of green, and repeat the 6th round.
9th: Knit 6, * knit 3 together, knit 11, * 17 times; knit 3 together, knit 5.
10th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 4, knit 3 together, knit 4, make 1, * 18 times.
11th: Plain knitting.
12th: Change to the next shade of scarlet, and repeat the 10th round.
13th: Knit 5, * knit 3 together, knit 9, * 17 times; knit 3 together, knit 4.
14th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 3, knit 3 together, knit 3, make 1, * 18 times.
15th: Plain knitting.
16th: Change to the next shade of green, and repeat the 14th round.
17th: Knit 4, * knit 3 together, knit 7, * 17 times; knit 3 together, knit 3.
18th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2, make 1, * 18 times.
19th: Knit 3, * knit 3 together, knit 5, * 17 times; knit 3 together, knit 2.
20th and 21st: Plain knitting, using the finer needles, and decreasing until there are only 96 stitches in the round.
22nd: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 1, * times.
23rd: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, twice, knit 7, * 8 times.
24th: Like 22nd.
25th: * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 8, * 8 times.
26th: * slip 1, knit 4, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 3, make 1, slip two together, knit 1, pass the 2 slip over, make 1, knit 2, * 8 times.
27th: Like the 25th.
28th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, * 8 times.
29th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 7, * 8 times.
30th: Like 28th.
31st: * ** slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, ** twice, knit 8, * 8 times.
32nd: * ** slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, ** twice, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, * 8 times.
33rd: Like 31st.
Repeat these 12 rows (that is, from the 22nd to the 33rd, inclusive of both), six times more, doing two patterns (that is, 24 rounds) of one shade, and then changing to the next lightest. After the 7th pattern, continue as follows, in order to decrease and form the neck for the lamp.
1st decreasing round: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 1, * 8 times.
2nd: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, * 8 times.
3rd: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 1, * 8 times.
4th: * ** slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, ** twice, knit 7, * 8 times.
5th: * * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, ** 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 2, * 8 times.
6th: * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 4, knit 2 together, * 8 times. After this, do two inches of ribbed knitting in the same shade. It is done by alternately knitting and purling two stitches. Cast off.
The edges of the Vandykes are trimmed with tatting, of which five graduated ones surround each. Fill the netting-needle with the darkest shade of wool, and make for every point at the base of the corner the following seven loops:—
1st: 9 double stitches; draw it up to a half-circle.
2nd: 11 double; the same.
3rd: 13 double; the same.
4th: 15 double; draw it up tightly.
5th: Like 3rd. 6th: Like 2nd.
7th: Like 1st.
This cover is intended to protect the lamp from the dust, which greatly injures the bronzing of the Hadrot lamp.
Contents
MATERIALS..—6 skeins of white netting silk, and 3 skeins each of four shades of cerise ditto, the darkest being almost brown, and the lightest a rich and brilliant cerise. A hank of rather large steel beads, a string of short square steel bugles, and 1 oz. of fluted ditto, 1/2 inch long. A skein of rather fine white cotton cord, and 54 rings. Tapered, indented crochet-hook, No. 22. Begin with the darkest cerise, and do not change until the directions require it.
1st round: With this silk work 8 s.c. on the end of the cord, and form into a round, after which 6 s.c. to secure it.
2nd (Cerise and white): X 1 cerise in the same stitch as the last, 1 white, 2 cerise in 1, x 6 times.
3rd: X 1 cerise worked in the same stitch as the last two, 3 white, 2 cerise in one, X 6 times.
4th: Like 3rd, with 5 white instead of 3.
5th: X 1 cerise in the same stitch as the last two, 7 white, 4 cerise in 1, X 6 times.
6th: X 1 cerise in the same as the last four, 11 white (the last 2 being over 2 cerise), 4 cerise in one, X 6 times.
7th: X 1 cerise on the next stitch, 13 white, 1 cerise on 1, 3 on the centre one of 5, X 6 times.
8th: Like 7th, with 15 white. Change to the next shade of cerise.
9th: X 1 cerise on next, 8 white, 1 cerise, 8 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise on centre of 5, X 6 times.
10th: X 1 cerise on next, 8 white, 3 cerise (the second over 1 cerise), 8 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.
11th: X 1 cerise on next, 6 white, 3 cerise, 1 white, 1 cerise, 1 white, 3 cerise, 6 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.
12th: X 1 cerise in next, 6 white, 11 cerise, 6 white, 1 cerise. 3 in 1, X 6 times.
Next shade of cerise.
13th: X 1 cerise in next, 5 white, 5 cerise, 2 white, 1 cerise, 2 white, 5 cerise, 5 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.
14th: X 1 cerise in next, 7 white, 3 cerise, * 1 white, 2 cerise, * twice, 1 white, 3 cerise, 7 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, x 6 times.15th: X 1 cerise in next, 11 white, 3 cerise, 1 white, 3 cerise, 11 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.
16th (Lightest cerise): X 1 cerise in the same stitch as the last 3, 13 white, 2 cerise, 1 white, 1 cerise, 1 white, 2 cerise, 13 white, 4 cerise in 1, X 6 times.
17th: X 1 cerise in the next, 16 white, 3 cerise (over 1 w., 1 c., 1 w.), 16 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.
LAMP MAT.
18th: X 1 cerise on next, 18 white, 1 cerise, 18 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.
19th: X 1 cerise in next, 39 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.
20th: X 1 cerise in 1, 2 white, * 2 cerise, 3 white, * 7 times, 2 cerise, 2 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.
21st: X 1 cerise in next, * 3 white, 2 cerise, * 8 times (the white over white, the cerise over cerise), 3 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.
22nd: X 1 cerise in next, 3 white, * 1 cerise, 2 white over 2 cerise, 1 cerise, 1 white, * 8 times, 2 more white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.
23rd: X 1 cerise in next, 3 white, * 1 cerise, 4 white, * 8 times, 1 cerise, 3 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.
24th: Entirely cerise, working 3 in 1 at all the 6 points.
25th: White and cerise alternately, a single stitch of each, with 3 in 1 at the points.
26th: All cerise, increasing, as before, at the corners.
This completes the centre of the mat. Now cover six of the rings with the darkest cerise, 12 with the lightest, 12 with the second lightest, and 24 with white. They are to be done in s.c. The darkest are sewed in the centre of each side of hexagon, with a white at each side, and two more (joined together) above it. The lightest cerise are placed at the points the two being joined together, and one to the mat. These form the extreme points, and the other twelve are placed to connect the lightest rings with the white. The short square bugles are threaded, with some of the beads, to form a cross in the centre of each of the white rings; the other rings have a cross of beads only. All the rings are sewed together, and to the mat.
The elegant fringe round the edge is formed of the long steel bugles, connected with each other at the outer edge by a chain of 4 steel beads. The needle is slipped down them to connect them with the rings, and a single bead is threaded at the base of each. The side rings have 6 bugles each, placed at equal distances; the corners have 8; and 1 is placed where every two rings are joined.
This mat would be very beautiful if worked in white and shades of green, with gold beads and bugles.
Contents
MATERIALS..—Half-ounce each of stone-colour and shaded violet, 8-thread; half-ounce of shaded amber, 4-thread Berlin Wool; 4 yards of ordinary sized Blind or Skirt Cord; 77 small Curtain Rings, the size measuring across five-eighths of an inch; Nos. 1 and 2 Penelope Hook: 2 bunches No. 6 Steel Beads.
With No. 1 Hook, and drab Wool, work 11 stitches d.c., over the end of the cord; double in as small a circle as possible, unite, and work 2 stitches into every loop for three more rounds.
5th: 1 stitch into every loop.
6th: Increase 1 stitch in every 2nd loop. There must be 72 stitches in this round.
7th: Place a pin in every 9th loop, and in this same 9th loop work with 8-thread violet, 1 stitch; then 9 stitches drab in the next 8 loops, that is, increasing 1 stitch in about the 4th loop; repeat this all round.
8th: Work 3 stitches violet into the 1 violet stitch; then 9 stitches drab, working only 8 stitches in the last compartment, to commence next row.
9th: In the last drab stitch that was not worked into, work 1 violet stitch; then 4 more violet; then 7 drab, increasing 1 in 4th stitch; in the last compartment make only 2 drab after the increased stitch, in order to make 8 violet in next round.
10th: 8 violet, the 1st to come before the 5th violet of last row, and the last to come after the 5th violet, but increasing 1 violet on the 5th stitch; then 7 drab, increasing 1 in the 4th drab stitch.
11th: All violet, increasing 1 in every 5th stitch.
12th. All violet, but without increasing, unless required.
The diameter of the mat should now measure 6 inches across, but should it be required larger, another row of cord, or even two, will give the increased size.
Now d.c. under all the rings, about 30 to 32 stitches for each ring is necessary; unite and tie the knot very neatly, and sew six of these rings round a 7th, sewing them with cotton the colour, and sewing them at the parts where each ring is joined, about 6 stitches in length; be careful that no stitches are seen on the right side; then sew steel beads round the centre ring, taking up 5 to 6 beads at a time on the needle; then place the needle between the joinings of the rings, take upon it about 35 beads, and draw the cotton across to the opposite point; repeat this twice more, the beads will then form as given in engraving; sew the circles of rings on to the mat by two of the rings, and sew the circles together by one ring. Any other colour beside amber will do for the rings. If the table cover is scarlet, green wool should be used; if blue, amber; or if green, scarlet or pink.
CANDLE-LAMP MAT.
Contents
MATERIALS..—5 skeins of rich dark blue purse silk, 6 skeins of fine and pure gold thread; Penelope hook, No. 18; 2 yards of dark blue silk fringe, 2 inches deep; 2 yards of fine wire, and 3/4 yard of white gros-de-Naples. A pair of screen handles.
Of course silk of any other colour may be used, if blue will not correspond with the furniture. Green looks very handsome with gold, and scarlet with silver. The metal thread used must be of the very best description only.
Begin by making six gold flowers, thus:—26 ch., close in 19th for a round, X 7 ch., sc. under loop, X twice, 7 ch., slip on the closing of the round—thus there are three loops in the centre one; work underthe chain of the first, 1 s.c., 1 d.c., 6 t.c., 1 d.c., 1 s.c. Under the centre one 1 s.c., 1 d.c., 9 t.c., 1 d.c., 1 s.c.; and the third loop like the first. Slip on the base of the flower, and work down the 19 ch. in s.c.
HAND SCREEN.
Six of these flowers are to be made, and afterwards sewed on the silk, radiating from the centre, and each occupying the middle of one side of the hexagon.
FOR THE SCREEN (beginning in the centre).—With the blue silk, make a chain of six, and close into a round.
1st: X 1 d.c., 5 ch., miss none, X 6 times.
2nd: X 5 t.c. on 5 ch., 5 ch., miss 1 d.c., X 6 times.
3rd: X 7 t.c. (beginning on the last of 5 ch.), 5 ch., X 6 times.
Continue in this manner, increasing the t.c. stitches by 2 at each section of the hexagon, in every round, until there are 33 t.c. in each division, always making 5 chain between. Then s.c. all round, adding the silk flowers where they occur—that is, over the 8th, 17th, and 26th of the 33 t.c. in each section. The flowers are made in the following mariner:—12 ch., close into a loop at the 7th, 6 ch., s.c. under loop. 8 ch., s.c. under loop, 6 ch., slip at the stem, X 5 ch., s.c. under first loop of 6, X 5 times, * 5 ch., s.c. under the loop of 8, * 7 times, ** 5 ch., s.c. under loop of 6, ** 5 times; s.c. down the chain, and continue the round.
The gold flowers are to be worked in the same way, and attached over the centre of each 5 chain which form the corners of the hexagon. Work a chain all round, catching up the points of the flowers at regular intervals, and then work two rounds of s.c., with three stitches in one at the points.
Do all the crochet work of these screens rather tightly. Sew on the large gold flowers, passing the ends through the centre loop of the screens, and form a little rosette of X 6 chains, s.c. in the round, X repeated to close the middle.
TO MAKE UP THE SCREENS.—Cut out a hexagon, the exact size of the crochet, in paper, and bend the wire into the same form. Be very particular that the wire frame shall be true and even. Cover it on both sides with white silk, over one side of which sew the crochet. It will only require to be fastened round the edges. The fringe must then be laid on, the handles attached, and the screen is completed.
If preferred, the back of the screen may be covered with silk of the colour of the crochet, as more durable than white.
Contents
MATERIALS..—Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize Goat's-head Knitting Cords, Nos. 12 and 16; 8 oz. of blue beads, large enough to thread on the finest cotton, they should be turquoise blue; crochet hooks, Nos. 19 and 20.
The centre of the counterpane is made in diamonds, with small pieces at the edges, merely to fill in the parts where the diamonds leave spaces, and form the whole into a solid square. It is done in ribbed crochet. Ribbed crochet is so called from the work having the appearance of ridges. It is worked backwards and forwards thus: the top of a row of crochet, whether s.c., d.c., or t.c., presents an appearance of chain stitch; in working ribbed crochet, take up always that side of the chain which is furthest from you. The middle of the counterpane is done in knitting cord, No. 12; crochet hook, No 19.
FOR THE DIAMONDS.—(a) Make 2 ch., miss 1, 3 s.c. in the next ch.
2nd: Turn the work; 1 ch., 1 s.c. in one, 3 s.c. in next, 1 s.c. in third.
3rd: Turn, 1 ch., 2 s.c. in second, 3 s.c. in next, 2 s.c. in two last.
Thus you proceed, turning the work at the end of every row, working 1 s.c. in every one but the middle stitch, in which you work 3, until you have made 15 ribs, and the row has 61 stitches, a chain stitch being made at the beginning of every row.
Now make 3 ch., on turning, and work 3 d.c. in the first stitch, X miss 2, 3 d.c. in third, X 9 times, miss 1, 3 d.c. in second, 1 ch., miss 1 (which should be at the point), 3 d.c. in second, miss 1, 3 d.c. in second, * miss 2, 3 d.c. in third, * 9 times. This completes the row, the last 3 d.c. coming on the last stitch.
CROCHET COUNTERPANE FOR A BASSINET.
Turn, X 5 ch., d.c. between the sets of 3 d.c. of the last row, X to the end; s.c. only at the last.
Turn, X 3 ch, s.c. under loop, X to the end but with 5 ch. at the point; another s.c. in the last loop.
Turn, 2 ch., d.c. in every stitch of last row. Turn, 1 ch., s.c. in every stitch of last row; fasten off.
This completes one diamond, which for a bassinet quilt will be large enough. For a large counterpane they may be considerably increased. A glance at the engraving will show how they are joined together.
For the half diamonds at the side(b)make 2 ch.; work 2 s.c. in the first of these, turn, 1 ch., 1 s.c. in the first of the two of last row, 2 s.c. in the second; turn, 1 ch., 2 s.c. in the first, and 1 in each of the other 2 s.c. of last row. Continue working thus, making two in one at the end of one row and the beginning of the next, until there are 31 stitches and 15 ribs. Then, for the open part, 2 ch., turn, work 3 d.c. in the first stitch, X miss 2, 3 d.c. in next, X 10 times.
2nd row of open work: Turn, X 5 ch., d.c. under the chain between the first and second set of 3 d.c. X repeat to the end of the row; 5 ch., s.c. at the end.
3rd: Turn, X 3 ch., s.c. under loop, X repeat to the end.
4th: 2 ch., turn d.c. in every stitch to the end.
5th: 1 ch., turn, s.c. to the end.
For the side pieces(c)work in exactly the same manner, only beginning by working thus: 2 ch., turn, 2 s.c. in the first of these, 1 ch., turn,2 s.c. in the first of the two and 1 in the second. This is just the reverse of the other, the increase continuing to be made at that edge where the first increases. Of course the last row will end at the point of one piece, and the short side of the other.
(d)2 ch., work 3 s.c. in the first of these, 1 ch., turn, 2 s.c. in the first, 3 in the next, 2 in the last. Turn, 1 ch.; work this and all the following rows until you have 61 stitches in this manner. 2 s.c. in the first and last stitches, 3 in one in the centre, and 1 in one in every other (increasing 4 stitches in every row). The five open work rows to be done as ina.
(e)Work these pieces likea, until 10 ribs are done; then turn and s.c. up to the three centre stitches,slipon the first of the three, X turn, miss the slip stitch, slip on the next, and s.c. to the end; turn, 1 ch., s.c. on all the s.c. but the last, which slip; X repeat between the marks until one stitch only remains, through which the thread is drawn. The other side of the point must then be worked to correspond with the first, the centre stitch not being worked at all.
(f)These two morsels are begun likebandc, and finished in the same way thateis. They will then exactly fit those corners. The other corners(g)are worked by beginning, as usual, with 2 ch., in the first of which work 3 s.c., X ch., turn, 2 s c. in first and last stitches, and one in each intermediate; X repeating backwards and forwards until 3 stitches are in the row, when complete by open work as inbandc.
The numbers required of each piece are—a, 28;bandc, five of each;d, e, f, andg, two each. (A glance at the engraving will show the manner in which these are joined into an oblong square.)
EYELET-HOLE BORDER.—When all are sewed together, a line of d.c. must be worked all round, with 3 stitches in one at the corners, and two in one on each side of the three. This will make the corners perfectly square.
2nd round: X 1 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1 X; repeat all round, but not missing any at the corners.
3rd: (Eyelet-holes). These are to be worked quite separately from the last, at first. X 9 ch., close for a round in the second, and work 8 s.c. under the half, X repeat until a length is done sufficient to surround the square, every little round being half-covered by the s.c. In covering the other half of each circle, you will attach it to the work thus:—4 more s.c. make a ch., slip the needle off the loop, insert it at the corner of second round, and draw the loop through, then 4 s.c. under the remainder of the circle, 1 s.c. on ch. between; X 4 s.c. under next eyelet-hole, miss 2 on the second round, insert the hook in the third, draw the loop through, and work 4 more under the ch.; X repeat, allowing 3 between, except at the corners.
4th: S.c. (putting the hook under both sides of the chain) at the top of an eyelet-hole, X 5 ch., s.c. in the same way under the centre of the next, X all round, with 6 ch. at the corners.
5th: X 1 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, X all round, not missing any at the corners.
6th: S.c. all round, with two stitches in one at the corners.
MOTTO BORDERS.—For these use Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize Goat's-head Cotton, No. 12, on which the beads must be strung before beginning to work. The borders are done entirely in s.c., the beads being dropped on, according to the pattern,on the wrong side, thiswrongside being therightwhen beads are used in crochet. The ends have 241 chain each: the sides, 397. The pattern occupies 55 rows, and the squares at the corners have 55 chain, and the same number of rows.
The motto borders and corners are all worked separately, and afterwards sewed together. When completed, the eyelet-hole border is again added all round, and the counterpane then only requires a deep open border.
This quilt would be very handsome, if worked in coarser cotton, for a full-sized bed. The small diamonds in the centre would thus be increased in size, and a sufficient number should be done to form a middle just three times the dimensions of that now given. The borders should be worked in open square crochet instead of s.c.; the pattern and letters in close squares on an open ground. It would for this purpose, be requisite to make the chains of three times the number of stitches, and one over: 724 for the ends, 1,192 for the sides, and 166 for the corners. In other respects the counterpane might be worked exactly from the instructions.
The family coat-of-arms and crest, correctly drawn, would make a very handsome centre for a counterpane in crochet. Where a quilt is done in square crochet, it should be laid over one of the new patent wadded counterpanes of a colour appropriate to the furniture of the room, as this displays the work to great advantage.