Diamond Netting, of Five StitchesDiamond Netting, of Five Stitches.—Commence with a long loop, then net five loops plain, repeat to the end of the row, finishing with a long loop. Second row, begin with a plain loop, make a loose stitch to meet the short loop in the previous row, and withdraw the mesh before commencing the next loop, work four loops plain, and so proceed. Third row is commenced as the second: withdraw the mesh as before, and work three plain loops. Begin the fourthrow with a plain stitch, work a long loop, then a loose stitch; withdraw the mesh, and work two plain stitches; again withdraw the mesh, work a plain stitch, and so proceed to the end. The fifth is begun with two plain stitches; then form a loose stitch, withdraw the mesh, work one plain loop, again withdraw the mesh, and finish with two plain stitches. The sixth row commences with three stitches plain, then make one loose stitch, and finish with two plain ones. For the seventh row, commence as in the last case; make a long loop, and finish with two plain stitches. The eighth row begins with three stitches in plain netting; withdraw the mesh, net one stitch plain, make a loose stitch, again withdraw the mesh, and finish the row with a plain stitch. In doing the ninth row net two stitches plain, withdraw the mesh, net two more plain stitches, make a loose stitch, again withdraw the mesh, and finish with a plain stitch. The tenth row is begun as the last, but instead of the loose stitch, net a plain one, then make the loose stitch, and withdraw the mesh. The mesh proper for this kind of netting is No. 18, and the silk called second-sized purse twist, is the best adapted for this kind of work.
Diamond Netting, of Five Stitches
Diamond Netting, of Five Stitches.—Commence with a long loop, then net five loops plain, repeat to the end of the row, finishing with a long loop. Second row, begin with a plain loop, make a loose stitch to meet the short loop in the previous row, and withdraw the mesh before commencing the next loop, work four loops plain, and so proceed. Third row is commenced as the second: withdraw the mesh as before, and work three plain loops. Begin the fourthrow with a plain stitch, work a long loop, then a loose stitch; withdraw the mesh, and work two plain stitches; again withdraw the mesh, work a plain stitch, and so proceed to the end. The fifth is begun with two plain stitches; then form a loose stitch, withdraw the mesh, work one plain loop, again withdraw the mesh, and finish with two plain stitches. The sixth row commences with three stitches plain, then make one loose stitch, and finish with two plain ones. For the seventh row, commence as in the last case; make a long loop, and finish with two plain stitches. The eighth row begins with three stitches in plain netting; withdraw the mesh, net one stitch plain, make a loose stitch, again withdraw the mesh, and finish the row with a plain stitch. In doing the ninth row net two stitches plain, withdraw the mesh, net two more plain stitches, make a loose stitch, again withdraw the mesh, and finish with a plain stitch. The tenth row is begun as the last, but instead of the loose stitch, net a plain one, then make the loose stitch, and withdraw the mesh. The mesh proper for this kind of netting is No. 18, and the silk called second-sized purse twist, is the best adapted for this kind of work.
Dotted NettingDotted Netting.—This is easily done. Cast on the number of loops you require, and proceed as follows. Begin with long loop, in which you next increase two stitches; repeat to the end of the row. None of the rows are at all varied; and you must carefully preserve its uniform appearance, as in that consists its principalbeauty.
Dotted Netting
Dotted Netting.—This is easily done. Cast on the number of loops you require, and proceed as follows. Begin with long loop, in which you next increase two stitches; repeat to the end of the row. None of the rows are at all varied; and you must carefully preserve its uniform appearance, as in that consists its principalbeauty.
Shaded Silk Netting.—This is beautiful, when the shades blend well together. Of course, each row must be worked in one shade, and the next needful must be matched with the utmost care.It is not possible to give minute rules on such a subject: but, in this, as in other things, practice will insure success.
Grecian NettingGrecian Netting.—This is beautiful, and should be worked with fine silk, and with two meshes, No. 9 and 18; one plain row is to be netted with the large mesh, and then in the next row employ the small one. The silk is twisted round the fingers as in plain netting, and the needle must pass through the finger loop into the first stitch, and thence into the second. Then let the second be drawn through the first, and the first through the second, finishing the stitch by releasing your fingers and pulling the material tight. The succeeding stitch is a small loop, that appears to cross the stitches twisted together. These three kinds of stitches form the pattern, and are to be repeated until the work is completed. Grecian netting may be employed for a variety of purposes, and you can, of course, vary both the material and the meshes as best accords with the design you are intending to accomplish.
Grecian Netting
Grecian Netting.—This is beautiful, and should be worked with fine silk, and with two meshes, No. 9 and 18; one plain row is to be netted with the large mesh, and then in the next row employ the small one. The silk is twisted round the fingers as in plain netting, and the needle must pass through the finger loop into the first stitch, and thence into the second. Then let the second be drawn through the first, and the first through the second, finishing the stitch by releasing your fingers and pulling the material tight. The succeeding stitch is a small loop, that appears to cross the stitches twisted together. These three kinds of stitches form the pattern, and are to be repeated until the work is completed. Grecian netting may be employed for a variety of purposes, and you can, of course, vary both the material and the meshes as best accords with the design you are intending to accomplish.
French Ground NetFrench Ground Net.—You must have an even number of loops on the foundation, then proceed. First row, plain stitches and long loops, alternately; second row plain; make a loose stitch, and repeat. Begin the fourth with a loose stitch, net one plain, repeat to the end; commence the fifth row by netting one plain loop, make a long loop, and the little loop as in the third row; in coming after the last long loop, the little loop must be exchanged for a plain stitch.
French Ground Net
French Ground Net.—You must have an even number of loops on the foundation, then proceed. First row, plain stitches and long loops, alternately; second row plain; make a loose stitch, and repeat. Begin the fourth with a loose stitch, net one plain, repeat to the end; commence the fifth row by netting one plain loop, make a long loop, and the little loop as in the third row; in coming after the last long loop, the little loop must be exchanged for a plain stitch.
Another kind of Honeycomb Netting.—Use a mesh No. 17, and set on an even number of stitches. Net the first row plain, having the silk round the mesh twice. For the second row youput the silk once round the mesh and net the second loop, having previously half twisted it. Then net the first loop plain, net the fourth as the second, again net a stitch plain, and thus proceed with plain and half-twisted stitches, alternately. The third row is the same as the first, and the fourth as the second. These kinds of netting are very pretty for purses, bags, &c., and may be done in different colors if the purse is worked in four or five rows of plain, and the same number of honeycomb netting.
Honeycomb NettingHoneycomb Netting.—You are to make an even number of loops, putting the silk twice round a No. 18 mesh, for the second row net with the silk once round the mesh, and put the first stitch through the second at the back, and net it; then the second stitch is pulled through the middle of the first and netted: you do the same with each two of the other stitches, and must be careful not to burst them. For the third row, the silk is put twice round the mesh, and the netting is plain. You proceed thus in alternate rows until the work is done.
Honeycomb Netting
Honeycomb Netting.—You are to make an even number of loops, putting the silk twice round a No. 18 mesh, for the second row net with the silk once round the mesh, and put the first stitch through the second at the back, and net it; then the second stitch is pulled through the middle of the first and netted: you do the same with each two of the other stitches, and must be careful not to burst them. For the third row, the silk is put twice round the mesh, and the netting is plain. You proceed thus in alternate rows until the work is done.
Honeycomb Netting, with two Meshes.—The meshes proper are No. 9 and 16. Cast on an even number of stitches, and net the first row plain, with the No. 9 mesh. With mesh No. 16 net the second row, working the second stitch first and the first second, and so proceed netting the fourth stitch, and then the third, and so on to theend. Work the third row with No. 9 as before, and the fourth row as the second, only netting the first loop plain, and then taking, first the third, and then the second, and so on to theend, finishing with a loop in plain netting. The next row is done plain with No. 9, the next with No. 16, exactly as the first twisted row. The odd stitch netted plain, only occurs at the commencement of each alternate row of netting done with No. 16. This kind of netting is proper for a veil.
Honeycomb Netting, with two Meshes.—The meshes proper are No. 9 and 16. Cast on an even number of stitches, and net the first row plain, with the No. 9 mesh. With mesh No. 16 net the second row, working the second stitch first and the first second, and so proceed netting the fourth stitch, and then the third, and so on to theend. Work the third row with No. 9 as before, and the fourth row as the second, only netting the first loop plain, and then taking, first the third, and then the second, and so on to theend, finishing with a loop in plain netting. The next row is done plain with No. 9, the next with No. 16, exactly as the first twisted row. The odd stitch netted plain, only occurs at the commencement of each alternate row of netting done with No. 16. This kind of netting is proper for a veil.
Leaf Netting.—This is pretty when executed properly. You should work with cotton, and No. 14 mesh. Five loops are required for each pattern. Commence the first row by netting two plain loops for the edge, then net three plain, in the next loop increase four, and repeat this operation to the end of the row; finish with two plain loops. Begin the second row as before, and collect all the loops increased in each of the twice four loops formed in the last row, into one; then net four loops plain; repeat this to the end of the row, and net two plain as before. The third row is plain netting. The fourth row has two loops netted plain, then two more plain; you then increase four on each of the next two loops, net one plain, and repeat the operation to the end of the row; finish by netting two stitches plain. Fifth row, commence as before, net one plain loop, collect the increased loops as the second row, net three plain, and so repeat; net two plain to finish the row. The next row is netted plain. Repeat these rows as often as your work requires it to be done.
Leaf Netting.—This is pretty when executed properly. You should work with cotton, and No. 14 mesh. Five loops are required for each pattern. Commence the first row by netting two plain loops for the edge, then net three plain, in the next loop increase four, and repeat this operation to the end of the row; finish with two plain loops. Begin the second row as before, and collect all the loops increased in each of the twice four loops formed in the last row, into one; then net four loops plain; repeat this to the end of the row, and net two plain as before. The third row is plain netting. The fourth row has two loops netted plain, then two more plain; you then increase four on each of the next two loops, net one plain, and repeat the operation to the end of the row; finish by netting two stitches plain. Fifth row, commence as before, net one plain loop, collect the increased loops as the second row, net three plain, and so repeat; net two plain to finish the row. The next row is netted plain. Repeat these rows as often as your work requires it to be done.
Net with Points.—This is done by making a foundation of, say, ninety stitches. Net on this foundation with any color you please. Net fifty stitches and return back again, proceed as before, only decreasing ten stitches, and so go on, until the required point is gained. Two colors are required.
Maltese Netting, in SpotsMaltese Netting, in Spots.—This is neat and elegant: it is done as follows. The first two rows are netted plain: you commence the third row by netting seven stitches; the silk is then to be passed round the mesh, and the needle brought under the knot in the second row, but without netting it; that is between the stitch you last netted and the one you are about to net. A loop is then made, which is not to be netted separately, as that would increase a stitch in the next row; but it is to be taken up with the last of the seven stitches previously netted. If you desire the spots to appear very distinct and prominent, let the silk pass twice round the mesh, and afterwards through the loop, and repeat the operation to the end. You may do this spotting, either as it appears in the pattern, or in almost any form you please.
Maltese Netting, in Spots
Maltese Netting, in Spots.—This is neat and elegant: it is done as follows. The first two rows are netted plain: you commence the third row by netting seven stitches; the silk is then to be passed round the mesh, and the needle brought under the knot in the second row, but without netting it; that is between the stitch you last netted and the one you are about to net. A loop is then made, which is not to be netted separately, as that would increase a stitch in the next row; but it is to be taken up with the last of the seven stitches previously netted. If you desire the spots to appear very distinct and prominent, let the silk pass twice round the mesh, and afterwards through the loop, and repeat the operation to the end. You may do this spotting, either as it appears in the pattern, or in almost any form you please.
Plain Open NettingPlain Open Netting.—This is pretty, and easy of execution. The operation is performed by netting three rows plain, then a row of loop stitches, then three rows plain, and a row of loops as before. You may net to any length you please. The direction here given is all that is necessary, and if duly attended to will enable any young lady to attain proficiency.
Plain Open Netting
Plain Open Netting.—This is pretty, and easy of execution. The operation is performed by netting three rows plain, then a row of loop stitches, then three rows plain, and a row of loops as before. You may net to any length you please. The direction here given is all that is necessary, and if duly attended to will enable any young lady to attain proficiency.
Round NettingRound Netting.—You commence making the loops, as in common netting, by twisting the silk round the fingers, then pass the needle and the silk through the finger-loop, and bring it up on the back side of the mesh, between it and the fore finger; the fingers and loop are still to be kept on themas before; the middle is then to be reversed, and brought down through the first loop, (on the foundation,) and taking a slanting direction over the mesh. Having drawn it entirely through, you withdraw your finger from the loop, as in ordinary netting. Youeverysucceeding loop in the same way.
Round Netting
Round Netting.—You commence making the loops, as in common netting, by twisting the silk round the fingers, then pass the needle and the silk through the finger-loop, and bring it up on the back side of the mesh, between it and the fore finger; the fingers and loop are still to be kept on themas before; the middle is then to be reversed, and brought down through the first loop, (on the foundation,) and taking a slanting direction over the mesh. Having drawn it entirely through, you withdraw your finger from the loop, as in ordinary netting. Youeverysucceeding loop in the same way.
A Purse, with China Silk.—Make as many stitches on the foundation as you please. Net three rows with plain colors, then five with China silk. Repeat.
A Seam Purse, with Beads.—You will need four skeins of fine silk, and a mesh, No. 8. On a foundation of one hundred stitches, net one plain row. Then in the next row, net a plain and a bead stitch successively. Net the third row plain, and begin the next with a bead stitch. Proceed thus till the purse is completed.
A Netted Bag, with Ring.—On a foundation of sixty stitches, net the bag to half the length required; then net in a gilt ring, and finish the bag. Draw it up with ribbon, and place a gilded or silk tassel at the bottom. You will require coarse netting silk, and a No. 16 mesh. You may use union cord, or gilt twist, if you prefer it.
Dice Pattern Purse.—This is done in two colors, highly contrasted. You must have two skeins of second sized silk, and a No. 10 mesh. On a foundation of ninety-eightstitches, net seven with the darkest color. You net seven rows. Then introduce the lighter silk, by joining it to the seventh stitch of the first rowof the dark color, and net seven rows upon the succeeding seven stitches of the foundation. You must be careful to loop in the last dark stitch on each row: repeat this process until the purse is of the length you require; of course reversing the squares. In cutting off the silk, you must leave sufficient to make a weaver’s knot, with which is to be fastened to the succeeding color.
Honeycomb Mittens.—You commence by casting on fifty stitches; the first four rows are to netted plain: after which, you net one row with the silk, twice round the mesh; again net two rows with the silk round the mesh once: you then commence netting rounds, and net rows as before. The first row is to be netted with the silk twice round the mesh, the second is in honey-comb pattern; the third round is executed as the first, and the fourth as the second; for the fifth round you net eleven stitches with the silk, round the mesh, as in the first row, and make two increased stitches in the twelfth loop; in the next row, you are to net five stitches and increase two, netting the whole, as in the first row; net the seventh like the second, and let this be repeated for the four succeeding rounds, a plain and a pattern round alternately; in the next round, which is plain, pass the silk twice round the mesh, and net sevenstitches; increase two stitches in the eighth round and net seventeen in plain and pattern, alternate rounds; in the eighteenth increase two, and net five rounds; again increase two, and net five; and on each side again increase two; net three rounds after the last increase, continuing to net till you arrive at the stitch over the last stitch you increased, and net it to the one corresponding to it on the other side of the thumb; if it does not fit as it ought to do, you must decrease, until that object is secured; you are to finish the thumb, by netting a round with the silk, put twice round the mesh, and two rounds in plain netting; the silk is to befastened to the side of the thumb, in order to finish the hand: and you are to net plain and pattern rounds successively. When the mitten is nearly the length you wish, finish in the same manner you did the thumb, using doublesilk.
Netted Cuffs.—The materials are German wool and French floss silk, and the work is executed with a mesh, No. 11, and a small steel one, No. 15. You commence on a foundation of fifty-four loops; and in order to form the right side, you net one row of wool with the large mesh, and three rows of silk with the small one, alternately, till you have netted twenty four rows. Then you form the wrong side, by netting one row of wool with the larger mesh, and two rows of the same material with the small one. You will require nine rows netted with the wide mesh, with two narrow rows between each. Then net one wide row with wool, having in each loop three stitches; above this, knit one narrow row of silk, and do the same at the other end. You have only to double the cuffs, turning the plain side inmost, and the rows of wool and silk will form a kind of border and finish to thewhole.
Netted Cuff with Silk and Wool.—On a foundation of ninety-six stitches, and with a No. 11 mesh, net one row plain in floss silk. Second row the same. Then with an ivory mesh of half an inch in width, net one row in German wool. The fourth row is to be done two stitches in one, with wool, using a small mesh. Then for the inside half of the cuff, net fourteen rows with the large and small meshes, successively. These to be done in silk and wool alternately. The next three rows to be netted in dark wool. Then with the small mesh net two rows in silk, the same color as at the commencement, alternately, with seven rows of wool, in proper shades, and finish with an edge to correspond with the beginning.
Netted Fringe.—Use a mesh No. 18, and net the required length, dropping off the stitches on the left. Net the next row the same. Then with a flat mesh, the width of the fringe, placing the grooved edge downward, net one row. These latter loops are to be cut, and either left as they are, or knitted two and two together, as the taste of the worker may dictate.
Netted Opera Cap.—Work with one mesh, half an inch wide; and another, smaller, of steel; and begin on a foundation of seventy-four stitches. You must procure in double German wool, two colors that contrast well: commence with the darkest shade, and net with the wide mesh one row; the second is to be netted with the narrow one, and so on alternately: the sixth and seventh are both worked with the narrow mesh: then net five more rows with the wide and narrow meshes alternately: this done, you commence with the other color, and net one row, having three stitches on each loop of the row preceding: you now introduce silk of the same color as that of the wool first used, and net one row with the narrow mesh; in that row all the stitches of the last row, netted in wool, must be taken up separately; the foundation is now to be removed, and rows of the lighter colored wool and silk, are to be netted to correspond. Net another piece of work in exactly the same manner as the former, and taking one of the pieces, fold it in the middle, and net one row with the narrow mesh in the centre row of knots; in the piece thus doubled, proceed to net a row with the wide mesh, then two with the narrow one, and again one with the wide mesh. The other piece is then to be folded in the same manner, and united to the former one by netting a row, taking up as before the centre row of knots. This makes the front of the cap appear in four pieces. At the back, in the centre row of knots, net a row with the narrow mesh,to keep it on an even fold. You draw up the cap at the end, and put the strings on. This completes it.
Netted Scollop EdgingNetted Scollop Edging.—You work this with a flat mesh, and set on as many stitches as you intend to have scollops. The flat mesh should be No. 3; and you will also require two round ones, one No. 14 and the other No. 18. Begin the work as follows. Net the first row with the flat mesh, and increase eighteen stitches into each of the loops on the foundation. For the second row, use the mesh No. 14, and net a plain stitch into each loop. Then, with the mesh No. 18, net the third row in long loops, by passing the material twice round the mesh; you are to increase two stitches in the same loop, and so continue to the end of the row. In the fourth row you use the mesh No. 14 and leaving all the increased stitches without netting them, net the long loops plain. The fifth and sixth rows are netted plain with the mesh No. 14, which finishes the scollop.
Netted Scollop Edging
Netted Scollop Edging.—You work this with a flat mesh, and set on as many stitches as you intend to have scollops. The flat mesh should be No. 3; and you will also require two round ones, one No. 14 and the other No. 18. Begin the work as follows. Net the first row with the flat mesh, and increase eighteen stitches into each of the loops on the foundation. For the second row, use the mesh No. 14, and net a plain stitch into each loop. Then, with the mesh No. 18, net the third row in long loops, by passing the material twice round the mesh; you are to increase two stitches in the same loop, and so continue to the end of the row. In the fourth row you use the mesh No. 14 and leaving all the increased stitches without netting them, net the long loops plain. The fifth and sixth rows are netted plain with the mesh No. 14, which finishes the scollop.
Plain Netted Gentleman’s Purse.—Of coarse netting silk, you will require five skeins, and a mesh, No. 13. You must have a foundation of eighty stitches on which to commence, and you net to the length of ten inches. Net up the sides and damp it slightly, after which it is put upon a purse stretcher, where it is to be left for a few hours, then take it off and trim it as you please.
A Lady’s Purse.—Net in the same manner seventy stitches on the foundation, and nine inches in length is sufficient. Employ a mesh No. 10, and fine netting silk. Two colors may be used, netting five rows with one, and four with the other.
Plain Netted Mittens.—Begin on forty-eight stitches as afoundation, and net four rows plain; then form the loops, for the ribbon, with a mesh double the size of that you work with. Then five rows more are to be netted plain; and in the next you must join both ends, and net one plain round, taking care in the twelfth stitch to increase. Again net round, and increase as before. Net the remaining stitches. You must then net sixteen rounds, increasing two stitches, to form the thumb, in the same place as the other increased stitches, every other round. Join the thumb stitches, and net seven rounds, which is the length of the thumb, decreasing a stitch or two in every round. With the larger mesh you are to net two stitches in every loop, and then net one round, taking the two together. Net two or three rounds with a finer mesh: this finishes the thumb. Net as many rounds as are wanted for the hand, and finish as before. Run in the ribbon, and edge with lace. You must have a No. 12 mesh, and five skeins of silk.
A Plain ScollopA Plain Scollop.—You must cast on one stitch for each scollop: this is the first row. For the second, use a flat mesh No. 1, and increase twenty stitches in eachloop. Net the third with a round mesh No. 14, netting all the increased loops plain. The two next rows are netted plain, with the same mesh, which finishes the pattern.
A Plain Scollop
A Plain Scollop.—You must cast on one stitch for each scollop: this is the first row. For the second, use a flat mesh No. 1, and increase twenty stitches in eachloop. Net the third with a round mesh No. 14, netting all the increased loops plain. The two next rows are netted plain, with the same mesh, which finishes the pattern.
Cap Border ScollopCap Border Scollop.—You commence with one stitch for each scollop, as in last pattern. For the second row, use the flat mesh No. 1, and increase in each loop twelve stitches. Net the third round with the round mesh No. 15, and be careful to net the increased stitches plain. The last row is netted plain, with the same mesh as the preceding one. The cotton used in the netting of these scollops, should be about the size of what is called third-sized purse twist.
Cap Border Scollop
Cap Border Scollop.—You commence with one stitch for each scollop, as in last pattern. For the second row, use the flat mesh No. 1, and increase in each loop twelve stitches. Net the third round with the round mesh No. 15, and be careful to net the increased stitches plain. The last row is netted plain, with the same mesh as the preceding one. The cotton used in the netting of these scollops, should be about the size of what is called third-sized purse twist.
Net Cravat.—This is netted with German wool, and with a mesh No. 9. Having cast on 400 stitches, in the color you intend first to use, net twenty-three rows in plain netting. Then introduce the other color, or white; and again, in the same manner, net twenty-three rows. Proceed thus, till you have three stripes of each color: then net the two sides together, and draw up the ends. You may add tassels, if you choose.
A Net Scarf.—This is to be worked with two flat needles, No. 8 and No. 2, and in that kind of silk calleddockers. You are to commence, by casting on 210 stitches, and netting four rows with the smaller mesh, and thirty or thirty-two with the larger one. These repeated, six times, completes the scarf. You must add the four narrow rows, which will complete the edge. The scarf is to be drawn up at each end, and have tassels attached.
A Long Purse, in Points.—Upon your foundation loops, put sixty stitches in one of the colors you intend to use, and return on them. Then, in the next row, put on forty stitches, the next forty, and so on to ten, always returning on the number last put on, and leaving the ten unnetted. You then, with another needle, introduce your other color, and put on ten stitches upon the foundation loops, commencing ten loops from the sixty of the first color. When you have reached the last of the sixty, which you will do when you have put on the ten, you must draw the mesh out, and pass the needle with the second color, through the concluding stitch of the first, working back upon the second color the ten stitches last introduced. The rest of the row is increased ten; and you must then decrease, as you did with the first color. One pattern is then complete; and you re-commence and proceed as before.
Crochethas been long known, but it has only become a favorite with the fair votaries of the needle, during the last few years. It is very difficult to describe, though easy of execution, and can be applied to a variety of useful and ornamental purposes. It is most frequently adopted in working shawls, table covers, pillows, mats, slippers, carriage mats, and a great variety of other things of elegance and utility. Silk, cotton, and wool, are employed, and the work is so easy, that a moderate share of attention to details, will make an expert workman.
Stitches.—These are called plain single crochet, plain double crochet, plain stitch open crochet, and open crochet, with a variety of stitches. It is not easy to describe the manner of working crochet stitch, though it is easy of execution: perhaps the following will be found tolerably correct. Take a skein of wool, and having wound it, make a loop at one end, like the first link in a chain; through this draw another, and so on, until the chain is of the length required. Each must be made rather tight as it is drawn through its preceding loop. This forms the foundation, and the young worker may then proceed with the article she intends to make. She must pass the needle through the last loop of thefoundation, and catching the silk or other material from behind, draw it through and so proceed with every succeeding loop of the foundation, until the row is completed. Having thus formed the first row, she must proceed as before to form a second, and so on from right to left, and from left to right, until she has all the rows required. This is the most effectual way we know of for the learner to pursue and she will find that her work is the same on both sides, producing raised and depressed rows in alternate succession. In working she must not generally work backward and forward, but must finish each row separately.
Plain Crochet.—Make only one loop in each stitch. In making common purses in crochet, this is the stitch generally employed.
Plain Double Crochet.—Keep two loops on the needle before finishing the stitch. This stitch is more generally in use than any of the others described.
Plain Stitch Open Crochet.—This stitch is done in the following manner. To the last link of the foundation chain, crochet five stitches, which must be again crocheted in the fifth stitch of the chain. This is to be repeated to the foundation. The rest of the rows are to be done in the same way, attaching every fifth stitch to the centre one of each loop in the row preceding. This looks extremely well for purses, and itcan be varied by employing two or more colors as taste or fancy may direct.
Open CrochetOpen Crochet.—This stitch is difficult to describe; an attention to the following rules will, we hope, enable the reader to understand it. First make a chain of the length required for the foundation; then work one stitch plain, and bring the material round the needle, which must be passed through the first loop of the chain, through which bring the material, and you will thus have three stitches onthe needle. Through the two first of these the material must be drawn, which will leave two; through these the material must be again drawn, and that will leave one, through which you are to make one stitch plain, as at the commencement. You then put the material over the needle, and through the fourth link of the chain, and proceed as before. You will thus have one plain stitch between each two double ones, which will leave an open space.
Open Crochet
Open Crochet.—This stitch is difficult to describe; an attention to the following rules will, we hope, enable the reader to understand it. First make a chain of the length required for the foundation; then work one stitch plain, and bring the material round the needle, which must be passed through the first loop of the chain, through which bring the material, and you will thus have three stitches onthe needle. Through the two first of these the material must be drawn, which will leave two; through these the material must be again drawn, and that will leave one, through which you are to make one stitch plain, as at the commencement. You then put the material over the needle, and through the fourth link of the chain, and proceed as before. You will thus have one plain stitch between each two double ones, which will leave an open space.
Double Open CrochetDouble Open Crochet.—This is a similar stitch, only the single stitch is omitted, and the two long stitches are made together, by passing the needle through the next loop without making a stitch. Thus you will have two long stitches and one open stitch in succession.
Double Open Crochet
Double Open Crochet.—This is a similar stitch, only the single stitch is omitted, and the two long stitches are made together, by passing the needle through the next loop without making a stitch. Thus you will have two long stitches and one open stitch in succession.
Treble Open CrochetTreble Open Crochet.—This is exactly like the last, only making three long stitches, instead of two, before every plain stitch. It looks neat and elegant, and may have beads introduced, which produce a charming effect. The following directions will enable the novice to work with beads with freedom and accuracy. Thread the beads on a strong silk, and pass one on to the middle stitch of each of the three long ones.
Treble Open Crochet
Treble Open Crochet.—This is exactly like the last, only making three long stitches, instead of two, before every plain stitch. It looks neat and elegant, and may have beads introduced, which produce a charming effect. The following directions will enable the novice to work with beads with freedom and accuracy. Thread the beads on a strong silk, and pass one on to the middle stitch of each of the three long ones.
This will, of course, place a bead in the centre of eachsquare. Beads of various colors may be introduced, so as to form a diamond. A gold or polished steel one should form the centre of each diamond.
Double Stitch Crochet.—To work this you have only to take both meshes of the chain, instead of one, as in common crochet.
Plain Stitch Elastic Crochet.—Work backward and forwards, first taking one mesh of the chain, and then the other. The upper mesh must be taken first.
Bead Stitch.—If you wish to work with beads, you must thread all you intend to use, before you begin to work. Then when you wish to insert a bead, no matter what the pattern is you are executing, you have only to pass a bead down to the last stitch you have worked, and to fasten it on by working the stitch as usual; but this will leave it on the wrong side; to prevent which, you must bring the crocheting thread to the front, having it on the fore finger of the left hand: by thus keeping the bead in front, and inserting the needle from the backof the stitch you are about to work, you can draw the thread through the back, and make the finishing loop in the common way: you will then find that the bead is on the right side.
Edge Stitch.—To work this stitch you are to draw a loop through the first stitch on the row, or on the round, if you work in rounds, then draw a second loop through the one last made. Thus the edge stitch is formed. It is of importance to attend to the regular working of this stitch, because if it is not done, you willlose in each row a stitch. On a round, it is not necessary to work the edge stitch; but when the work has to be turned to work round the contrary way, the edge stitch is indispensible.
A Raised Stitch.—Make this by passing the needle through, both meshes of the chain, and working two stitches instead of one, in the same space or hole.
To increase or decrease a Stitch.—In the former case, make two stitches in the mesh; and in the latter, take two stitches together as one, or miss one.
True Stitch.—This means to keep the stitches exactly over each other, when working in different colors, so as to concealthe half stitch. This must be done with care: and the more attention is paid to it, the more beautiful will the work appear.
To fasten on or off.—The former is done by laying the two ends of the material contrary wise, and working a few stitches with both. The latter process is performed by drawing the material through the last stitch, which must be fastened at the back.
A Dividing Line.—The most general form is that of working two stitches up and down alternately, between the stripes in the groundings; but it can be varied according to taste.
What is called making a stitch, at the beginning and end of a row, meansmaking one stitch of a chain before the first and after the last, which new stitches are to be crocheted in the succeeding row.
To Carry on a Thread in Double Crochet.—It is a very common thing to work a pattern in crochet, in more than one color; when this is the case, it is necessary that the colors, not required, should be so managed, as not to make loops, or stitches, at the back. To accomplish this, they must be worked in the following manner. Let the threads, that are not required, be laid along the fore finger of the left hand; and the crochet needle must be inserted in the usual manner, into the stitch; you are to let it go below the threads you are carrying on, and the thread with which you are working is to be drawn at the back, through the stitch, into which you inserted the needle or hook. Make the finishing loop as usual, which you carry over the threads, and pull through the two loops you have upon the needle. Thus you will make one stitch, and the process is to be repeated as often as your work requires it.
Joining the Threads.—In order that threads may be united neatly and properly, observe the following directions. Do not work up the thread quite to the end, but leave a small portion; then, on the fore finger of the left hand, by the end of the threadyou are about to commence working with, the end to be toward the tip of the finger, the ball will of course be toward the arm; work over it for about six stitches, proceeding as you do in carrying over the threads; then by the thread you worked with, but on the same finger, and continue with the thread you have last fastened on, and work over it, in the same manner, for about six stitches. The ends are then to be cut, and you work on as usual, with the thread just joined. This is the best method we know, of making the work appear neat, and, at the same time, of securing the required degree of fineness.
To Increase a Stitch in Crochet.—The process by which this is done, is as follows. First, make the stitch as usual, then work it again from the hinder or back part of the stitch. This prevents a hole, which would otherwise occur.
To take in a Stitch.—To do this, two stitches are taken on the needle at the same time, and you work them off as one.
We have given the fullest explanation of the various stitches in crochet, that our limited space will allow; and we hope that the directions are so plain that no one will be at a loss to comprehend their meaning. But we cannot promise any votary of this delightful employment, even tolerable success, unless she will assiduously apply her own mind to the various directions. “No one can become an expert needlewoman, who does not think, and think deeply, too.”
Crochet Edging, for CollarsCrochet Edging, for Collars, &c.—Ascertain the length you will require, and cast on the necessary number of chain stitches; you must use a steel hook No. 19. You will find your labor facilitated by sewing a piece of tape at the beginning and the end of the foundation-row of chain stitch. If the tops be an inch wide, it will form a good beginning and termination. The foundation of chain stitch forms the first row; the second is worked thus; the hook is inserted through the first loop of the foundation; (this will be on the tape,) through which, a loop is to be brought in the usual manner; directly above this, a second loop is worked, which forms the beginning. You now leave the tape, and work two chain stitches; after which, you throw a stitch on the needle, by casting the material over it. Then, taking the third loop on the foundation, counting from the one last worked, you insert the hook, passing two loops without working them, and catching the thread from behind, pull it through. Thus, you will have on the needle three loops; and you must now throw a stitch on the hook, which is, in like manner, to be pulled through the first loop, near the point. By this, you will still have three loops on the hook.Again, throw on a stitch as before, which draw through the two first loops on the end of the hook; then throw on another stitch, which must be pulled through the two loops remaining on the hook. You will then have only one loop upon the needle; and thus one stitch is completed. Make two chain stitches, as before, and then perform another stitch; and so proceed, as in the former row, but instead of inserting the hook in the third loop, as before, pass it into the first open portion of the work, and work the stitch over the two chain stitches of the second row, as follows. The needle being inserted into the open space, you are to catch the material in from behind, and draw it through, by which you will have three loops on the hook: then throw a loop on as before, and let it be drawn through the first loop, on the point of the hook. Another loop is next to be thrown in, and drawn through the two loops nearest the hook, on which you will now have two loops. You thus complete the stitch, as in the previous row, and so proceed to the end. The next row is the same in all respects; and the fifth is to form a Vandyke edge: it is worked in the following manner: the needle is inserted into the open space, and work a double tambour stitch round the chain stitches of the fourth row; then seven chain stitches are to be made and fastened to the two chain stitches of the last row, in the same manner as before. Thus one scollop or vandyke is completed, and you work all the others in the same way.
Crochet Edging, for Collars
Crochet Edging, for Collars, &c.—Ascertain the length you will require, and cast on the necessary number of chain stitches; you must use a steel hook No. 19. You will find your labor facilitated by sewing a piece of tape at the beginning and the end of the foundation-row of chain stitch. If the tops be an inch wide, it will form a good beginning and termination. The foundation of chain stitch forms the first row; the second is worked thus; the hook is inserted through the first loop of the foundation; (this will be on the tape,) through which, a loop is to be brought in the usual manner; directly above this, a second loop is worked, which forms the beginning. You now leave the tape, and work two chain stitches; after which, you throw a stitch on the needle, by casting the material over it. Then, taking the third loop on the foundation, counting from the one last worked, you insert the hook, passing two loops without working them, and catching the thread from behind, pull it through. Thus, you will have on the needle three loops; and you must now throw a stitch on the hook, which is, in like manner, to be pulled through the first loop, near the point. By this, you will still have three loops on the hook.Again, throw on a stitch as before, which draw through the two first loops on the end of the hook; then throw on another stitch, which must be pulled through the two loops remaining on the hook. You will then have only one loop upon the needle; and thus one stitch is completed. Make two chain stitches, as before, and then perform another stitch; and so proceed, as in the former row, but instead of inserting the hook in the third loop, as before, pass it into the first open portion of the work, and work the stitch over the two chain stitches of the second row, as follows. The needle being inserted into the open space, you are to catch the material in from behind, and draw it through, by which you will have three loops on the hook: then throw a loop on as before, and let it be drawn through the first loop, on the point of the hook. Another loop is next to be thrown in, and drawn through the two loops nearest the hook, on which you will now have two loops. You thus complete the stitch, as in the previous row, and so proceed to the end. The next row is the same in all respects; and the fifth is to form a Vandyke edge: it is worked in the following manner: the needle is inserted into the open space, and work a double tambour stitch round the chain stitches of the fourth row; then seven chain stitches are to be made and fastened to the two chain stitches of the last row, in the same manner as before. Thus one scollop or vandyke is completed, and you work all the others in the same way.
Petticoat Crochet EdgingPetticoat Crochet Edging.—Work this in the following manner. First row like the last pattern. The second like the second of the last; and finish with the fifth row of the same pattern. Persian cotton, No. 6, is the best material; and you work with a long steel crochet needle, having an ivory screw handle.
Petticoat Crochet Edging
Petticoat Crochet Edging.—Work this in the following manner. First row like the last pattern. The second like the second of the last; and finish with the fifth row of the same pattern. Persian cotton, No. 6, is the best material; and you work with a long steel crochet needle, having an ivory screw handle.
Crochet Edging, Handkerchiefs.—This is donein three rows, worked as the first, second, third, and fifth rows of crochet edging, for collars. The material is Persian thread, No. 12; and you work with a fine steel crochet needle, with a screw handle.
Insertion, or Crochet Beading.—You work this, if narrow, as first and second rows of the first pattern; if you have it wider, work it as the third row. It may be either worked with No. 8 or No. 12 cotton, and looks neat and handsome.
The following remarks on crochet should be carefully attended to. It is necessary to work this kind of work, rather loose than otherwise, as it is liable to cut, if done over tight. The size of the stitch depends, of course, upon that of the needle; and, therefore, care should be taken, to have them gauged. If a needle will go into the slit, opposite No. 4, but not into No. 5, then it is a No. 4 needle.
Sofa Pillow.—Work in six threads fleecy, and with a good sized crochet needle; work as follows. For the first stripe, commence with two rows of the same color; the three next rows, in different shades, of a color that will contrast well with that of the two first; the sixth row must be of a different color, or it may be white. The next five rows are to correspond, reversing the colors and shades. The second stripe is composed of seven rows: the first, three distinct shades of the same color; the middle one, a contrast; and the other three, the same shades as the first, but reversed as before. The third stripe is the same, but, of course, the colors are different. A white row in the middle of each stripe, is, in our opinion, the best. The fourth stripe is a repetition of the first, omitting the color in the first two rows, the fifth of the second, and the sixth of the third. The last stripe is to correspondexactlywith the first.
Turkish Pattern, for a Table Cover.—Use a steel needle, and six threads fleecy. Form the dividing line of two shades of the same color, say claret, and have four stripes, namely, white, gold color, blue, and scarlet. Then, on the white stripe, work the pattern in two greens, two scarlets, two blues, a brown, and a yellow. On the gold color, in two blues and one claret, white, lilac, and green. On the blue, in two scarlets, two greens, one drab, white, brown, and orange. And on the scarlet, one green, one white, two blues, a claret, and a bright yellow. We have merely given the colors in the above, as a specimen, and to assist the youthful artist in the formation of habits of arrangement. She can, of course, adopt any colors and shades she pleases; and the more she employs her own thought and judgment, the more original will her work appear.
A Plain Crochet Bag, in Silk.—Begin at the top with a chain, of one hundred and fifty stitches. The material to work with, may be any kind of silk that is proper for the purpose, and of any color that may be deemed desirable. On this foundation, a plain row is to be worked, and then a row in two colors, in two stitches of each alternately. The second color is employed to form the ground of the pattern. Work one plain row, and then work large stars, in a color to contrast with the plain ground. Between the large stars, work small ones, in a different color. One row of plain ground is to be crocheted on each side of the pattern; and before commencing the second stripe, repeat the row of two colors in two stitches of each. The ground of the next stripe is to contrast highly with that of the former one. The larger stars should also be well contrasted; but, all in the same stripe, must be of the same color; all the small stars should be alike. The stripes are to be repeated successively, until the bag is completed.
A Greek Cap, in coarse Chenille.—With a chain of six or eight stitches, begin at the top, and having united the ends, work round and round, in rows, until it is eight inches across. You must increase your stitches, in each row, so as to preserve the work flat. Work the stitches in open crochet, and between every two rows, it will be best to introduce a few plain lines, in black and gold. This cap is extremely elegant.
A Crochet Neck Chain.—Commence with fine plain stitches; then put the needle through the back of the second, and make one stitch plain. By twisting the chain, after every stitch, you will find that one stitch appears to cross; that stitch is the one to be next taken, and crocheted.
A Plain Crochet Purse.—This purse is made with middle-sized netting silk, and is strong and durable. A chain is to be made of one hundred and forty stitches, of any color you prefer, on which, you are to crochet three rows plain in the samecolor. Then, five rows, in a color making a good contrast. Repeat these stripes as many times as are requisite, and crochet up the sides. Draw up the ends, and trim the purse.
We deem it unnecessary to add more examples in crochet, as without engravings, they would not be understood. This kind of work is capable of being applied to an almost indefinite number of purposes; but in almost all cases, though easy of execution, the patterns are not easy to be described in writing. We have, however, done all that is required, to afford an insight into this kind of needlework; and have shewn that for purses, bags, caps, neck chains, &c., it can be readily brought into requisition. Much care and judgment are required in the arrangement of colors, as on this, almost the whole beauty of the work depends.