Hand Turning of Wood.

Fig. 26.

Fig. 27.

Fig. 28.

Figs. 28, 29.

Fig. 30.

It is however, evident that these two chucks have a rather limited range. The first can only be used for small work, and the only case in which the latter can take firm hold all round the work is when the jaws are just so far apart as that they form portions of the circumference of one and the same circle. Practically they will hold the work tightly under an extended range of sizes, and they are thus of great use to the turner. The following is however more perfect in operation, from the fact that it has four jaws instead of two which meet concentrically. This may be made either with two long screws at right angles to each other, with right and left-handed threads to each, as in the die chucks, or more simply and, in some respects more satisfactorily, with four distinct screws, all of the same pitch, and all with squared ends of equal size, to allow of the same key being used to turn them. It is possible to use such a chuck as an eccentric chuck if desired, which is certainly a recommendation in its favour over those which work always concentrically. The face of this chuck is shown inFig. 31. The ends of the four screws have a bearing in the small centre plateb, whilst the collars or flanges rest in a recess under the several platesc, c. The face of this chuck is graduated by each die, so that it is easy to set the jaws concentrically or to place one or more eccentrically to take in work of other shape than round or square. The jaws of this form of chuck are used for two purposes, either to hold work inside them like a vice, or externally. A ring, for instance, requiring to be chased on the outside is slipped over the jaws, which are then caused to recede from the centre so as to holdthe work securely. If the latter does not run truly, one or more of the screws can be slackened, and the opposite ones tightened, or if the eccentricity appears to be in an intermediate part, two adjacent screws will have to be thus slackened and the others tightened. On the whole this is a most useful pattern of chuck.

Fig. 31.

The following is a very excellent self-centering chuck now coming into extensive use. It has been noticed in more than one periodical. The description annexed is extracted from the pages of theEnglish Mechanic. "The chuck hereby illustrated seems to be a very convenient form, easily adjusted and holding the drill securely. It is also well adapted for holding wire to be threaded. Every piece of which it is composed is of cast steel well hardened. It can be furnished with a shank to fit the hole for the centre, screwed on the spindle, or slipped on the centre. No wrench is necessary, the gripe of the fingers being sufficient to secure the shank of any drill. The inventor claims that he has used a one-inch drill, in tenacious wrought iron in one of them, receiving a shank of only three-eighths of an inch diameter without using a wrench."

Fig. 31Arepresents the shell of the chuck with milled bosses for the fingers. The core, B, is threaded and receives a steel wire spring which is inserted into the rear of each jaw, so that when relieved from pressure, the jaws open automatically.

Fig. 31A.

With this brief explanation, the operation of the chuck can be easily comprehended. These chucks are made of two sizes, one with an opening of three-eighths of an inch, and the other of three-sixteenths of an inch, and they can be made of larger sizes. Patented by L. H. Olmsted, Stamford, Connecticut, United States America.

Another chuck of self centering design, has likewise appeared in the periodical above named, into which it appears to have been copied from an American paper.

The accompanying engravings illustrate some improvements inthe arrangement of chucks which have been recently patented in this country, the inventors being Messrs. Smith and Haight, both of New York, U.S. The first part of the invention refers to an arrangement of adjustable chuck, by means of which tools and other articles of different diameters may be held firmly in the jaws of the chuck.Fig. 31Bis a longitudinal view of the chuck, partly in section. The spindle,a, is fitted so that it may be inserted tightly in the mandrel of the lathe. On the front end of the spindle is a conical screw on which is fitted the cap,b; this part is formed with an opening at the front end, having three longitudinal slots in it. In each of these slots an adjustable jaw,c, is fitted, the inner part of which is threaded with a female screw, to fit the conical screw on the spindle,a. An outer casingd, encloses the front part of the chuck, and behind this is fitted a loose collar, which is screwed into the casingd, so as to connect the parts firmly together. By turning the cap,b, with the casing,d, and collar, in one direction, the jaws,c, are moved forward and project out through the openings, and they may thus be adjusted to grip a tool or other article of small diameter. The opposite motion of the cap causes the jaws to recede, and in this way they may be adjusted to grasp articles of different diameters.

Fig. 31B.

Another arrangement of the adjustable chuck is shown inFig. 31C, which is a front view, andFig. 31D, a longitudinal section of the same. A, is the body of the chuck, the front part of which is formed with a rim or flange, in which are three radial recesses having fitted therein the sliding jaws, B. In the rear of each jaw is a bearing, in which is fitted a pin carrying a small lever, C, the front end of which is rounded, as shown in the section, and enters a slot made in the jaw, B; so that when the levers are moved outwards they cause the jaws to contract or move towards thecentre. The back part of the body, A, of the chuck is threaded, and on this part is fitted a collar, D, and in front of this is a sliding collar, E, which is connected to the collar, D, by means of a pin which enters a groove formed in the latter. The sliding collar is prevented from turning round on the body, A, by means of a feather, which works in a longitudinal groove formed in the inner circumference of the collar. Three inclined planes, F, are formed on the periphery of the collar, E, which extend to the backward ends of the levers, C, so that by moving the collar to and fro, the jaws, B, are caused to contract or expand, according to the size of the article to be grasped. A short cylindrical block, G, made of a conical figure internally is fitted loosely within the chuck, A, and serves to centre the end of a drill or other short article, but may be removed when it is desired to pass a rod or other article through the body of the chuck. To provide for the easy turning of the collar, D, it is shown as fitted with a hand wheel, H. With this arrangement of the several parts, the jaws of the chuck readily adapt themselves to drill or bit shanks as well as to articles of parallel form, or of a tapered or irregular figure.

Fig. 31C.

Fig. 31D.

The chucks last named belong to the class of compound or mechanical tools; and though their usefulness is beyond question, they need not be considered absolutely necessary, as the work which they are designed to facilitate can be and often is done without their aid. Indeed, success in the art of turning by no means depends absolutely upon the possession of expensive apparatus, and the amateur or mechanic will find the advantage of ransacking his own brain for the devising of divers makeshifts and off-hand contrivances—especially in this chuck-making department.

Among the simple expedients the following will be found well worthy of adoption.

A,Fig. 32, is a simple flange or flat brass plate with a boss behind, similar to a small face plate, and is to be turned up, drilled, and tapped to fit the mandrel. If the latter has a diameter of ¾ of an inch, a few of these brass pieces should be cast from a set of woodenpatterns ranging from two to three or four inches across the diameter of the plate, and, after having been fitted to the mandrel and turned, four holes, countersunk for wood screws, should be made, as shown in the sketch. These are intended to do away with the necessity of boring out and tapping each individual wooden chuck. They can be readily attached to any piece of wood by four screws, and a few minutes will be sufficient to adapt the same to any required purpose. A flat piece of board, for instance, itself too thin, or of too soft substance to permit of its being attached to the mandrel in the ordinary way, can thus be made into a temporary face plate, or a ring cut out of it, or any desired operation performed upon it. Indeed, these socket pieces will be found serviceable on many occasions, and will do away with the necessity of a large set of cup chucks.

Figs. 32, 33.

A few of the latter, however, are very useful and will cost but little. The castings are sold by weight, and the turner will experience no difficulty in fitting and finishing them for himself.Fig. 33is the form of these, and needs no description. The substance may be from ⅛ to ¼ of an inch, and need not be more, as that thickness will stand any reasonable shock caused by driving a piece of wood into the chuck, and it is always well not to overweight the mandrel with chucks of undue size or substance. The addition of three to six screws to one or two sizes of the cup chuck extends its usefulness. This form is represented inFig. 34, A and B. In this case, the casting may be rather more substantial (¼ to ⅜ of an inch in thickness).The screwsmust be strictly radial, pointing to the centre of the circle, and their ends must be turned off or filed flat. Their heads may be squared to enable a key or pair of pincers to be applied, or round with a hole through them. It is better to make this kind of chuck with six screws—three in one plane, and three againbetweenthese in another plane behind them. In fitting a piece of work into the chuck, it will not at first be found an easy matter to make it run truly. The best way is to centre it as nearly as can be guessed, by means of the three screws nearest to the open end of the chuck, and then, placing the latter on the mandrel, set the lathe in slow motion and correct the eccentricity of the piece by means of the three inner screws. Even after this it is probable that a little alternate slackening and tightening of the different screws may be necessary; but a little practice will quickly enable the turner to set a piece of work in the true axial line of the mandrel without much difficulty, and the work will then be held very securely. Any short piece, such as the ring of an eccentric to be bored truly inside, may be held by the outer set of screws alone; but if such a piece of work as a small cylinder is to be bored, the six screws must be brought into action. Here let the hint given when speaking of projecting screws, be repeated,Beware of the knuckles, which are peculiarly liable to be damaged in making use of these chucks. The shirt sleeve or coat, moreover, does not always enjoy perfect immunity from similar danger, and both should be kept out of harm's way, not for their own sake only, but because the arm may be brought into violent contact with the rest if the sleeve should get entangled (the momentum of the flywheel being great, and therefore not to be checked entirely at any given moment). A single rap of the above nature is not adelightfuleven ifsalutarylesson to the novice.

Fig. 34.

To hold rings and washers a tapering mandrel,Fig. 35, is used; and of these it is necessary to keep a few different sizes to suit different diameters. These may be made of iron or brass if forpermanent use, but box or other hard wood is a ready substitute, and may be turned down for smaller work when the surface gets spoiled by use. The expanding mandrel, "Hicks' patent," which will be treated of hereafter, is a convenient substitute for the simple conical form here spoken of; and in manufactories where large numbers of mandrels have to be kept of various sizes, a great saving of time, money, and labour is effected by their use. For amateurs and artisans in a smaller way of business the simpler form is generally sufficient. A slight modification is here appended, by which the common form may sometimes be made more efficient in the holding a ring tightly while undergoing the operation of turning, and this can be made applicable to metal mandrels, though specially intended for wooden ones.Fig. 36.

Figs. 35, 36.

The mandrel having been turned conical (N.B., the angle of the cone must be small, so that the size will diminish very gradually from the largest end), the wood is divided by a fine saw, just as the chuck already described with the outside rings was sawn into segments, a conical hole having been first made at the smallest end, as shown in the sectionb, b. Into this a short cone of larger angle is to be fitted, against the end of which the point of the back centre will press, tending to drive it into the mandrel, which will thus be made to expand. The ring to be turned will prevent the mandrel from splitting by the wedge-like action of the plug, unless the said ring is of light substance, in which case this form must not be used. The work will, by the above method, be securely and centrally held and not liable to slip towards the small end of the chuck.

In theFig. 36, a groove,c, c, is shown at the bottom of the saw-cuts. This should also be made round the boxwood spring chucks with rings, as it gives more freedom of expansion to the segments. With such a groove and the chuck itself completely hollowed out, the pressure of astrongindia-rubber ring will be sufficient to hold work whilst being polished: and this will, when the latter is delicate, be even superior to the screwed rings, as the pressure will be more gentle and equable. India-rubber rings for this purpose must not be thin and flat, like those used for bundles of papers or letters, but made of round material, the thickness of a quill or even larger. They may be had of all sizes at an india-rubber warehouse in Holborn, at the bottom of the hill on the left hand side going eastward, and not far from Negretti and Zambra's shop. The writer is not acquainted with the name of the proprietor.

Having had occasion to speak of tapping chucks of metal to fit the mandrel, it will be as well to speak here of the requisite tools for effecting this.

In the case of iron chucks it is not likely, as a general rule, that the amateur or workman will obtain access to a screw-cuttinglathe, and to cut an internal thread by hand with the chasing tool is hardly feasible, though readily accomplished in the case of brass chucks. When, therefore, a lathe is purchased, a set of taps of the diameter and pitch of the screw on the mandrel should be provided. Of these there must be three—an entering taper tap, an intermediate one rather less tapering, and a plug tap, which is cylindrical. And here we must enter a caution. Do not let the tapering taps be too long. For instance, let it be required to tap the boss of a face plate in which the hole cannot be drilled through the plate. It is first bored out to the size of thebottomof the mandrel threads, or rather less. Tap number one must then be screwed into it; but if this is too long, so that it cannot enter to the end of the threads cut upon it, the second tap will be too large and will not enter properly, but will most likely start a new thread for itself and spoil the first.Fig. 37,a,b,c, shows the form required;d, the form to be avoided, except in cases where, as in the cup chucks, a hole can be made quite through the article, so that the tapering tap can be worked to the linex, y, or nearly so. The long tap,graduallytapering as it does from end to end, is of course the easiest to use, and for nuts and such like is far the best; the conical tap of larger angle requires more power, but in the case named it is a matter of necessity to use it; and, if preferred, a set of four taps instead of three will remedy any difficulty. The novice must take great care to place the tap perpendicular to the face of the chuck, or the shoulder will not fit close to that on the mandrel. If much difficulty is experienced, such an arrangement asFig. 38may be of service. A represents the standard of an upright drill-post, of which B is the bench, C the screw by which to depress the drill and keep it to the cut. For the latter, and brace by which it is worked, substitute the tap, and place a spanner or wrench round the head of it. Inthe centre mark, which is generally left from the turning, place screw pointc. By means of a plumb line or square, D, test the perpendicularity of the tap; and as the latter penetrates, keep it to its work by the screw C; oil the tap freely, and the chuck will be easily and accurately cut with the required thread. Some kind of clamp will of course be required to secure the chuck to B, while it is being tapped.

Fig. 37.

Fig. 38.

The upright drill should always have a place in the workshop. It is much easier to drill with it than in the lathe, and the mandrel will thus be saved considerably. The latter should never be used except for light work. A variety of drilling apparatus will hereafter be described in this series, so that we need not now write more upon this part of our subject.

Somewhat akin to the chuck described as the cup chuck with six screws, is a chuck mentioned in an old French work,[1]the purpose of which is to turn up a cylinder, with a point at the end, so as to insure the axial line being kept. In the ordinary course, the cylinder would be turned up with the point and carrier, or driver, chuck already described; the conical point would be then turned down as far as possible, and the mark of the back centre afterwards turned off by means of the boring collar. It is by help of a miniature lathe and boring collar in one piece that the pivots of the balance of a watch are finished. In both cases the work may be well done by the same process. The chuck now to be described requires no boring collar, but at the same time it does not seem to be well suited for any but light work; in which latter case however it would be advantageous, and must therefore have a place in our present paper. The body of the chuck is shown in section, inFig. 39. A is the socket with screw to fit on the mandrel of the lathe. It will be seen that the chuck itself is hollowed out cylindrically, and in this cylindrical cavity slides a plug,c, bored conically, which can be fixed by a thumb-screw,h, traversing a slot in the body of the chuck. This cone is destined to receive one end of the cylinder to be pointed, which will, according to its diameter,centre itself in some part of the conical hole in the plug. The latter is made movable, so as to be adapted to the length of the article to be turned. At the outer end of the chuck is a groove dovetailed to receive a slide, shown clearly in the cross section B. The slide must be of sufficient substance to allow a clamping screw,f, to be tapped into it at one end, which screw must be long enough to reach when fully advanced nearly to the apex of the triangular opening seen in the slide. The action of the whole contrivance is as follows:—The cylinder to be pointed is placed in the conical cavity of the plug—the latter slid to or fro till the point to be turned projects a short distance beyond the mouth of the chuck through the triangular opening in the front slide; when it is fixed by a turn of the screw,f, which forms the third point of resistance, the sides of the triangular opening forming the other two. As the point or apex of the triangle is always in the diameter of the cylindrical chuck, it will only be necessary to move the slide itself in order to bring the axis of the cylinder to be turned in a line with that of the mandrel. As soon as this is accomplished so that the piece runs truly, the screw,g, is turned, and the slide fixed in position. A good deal of ingenuity is displayed by the inventor of this chuck, a description of which was published twenty years ago, and there are very many cases in which it will be called into requisition by the mechanic. With a little care, moreover, the amateur might make one for himself—the body of brass or gun metal, the plug and sliding part of iron or steel.

[1]Manuel de Tourneur par H. Bergeron.

Fig. 39.

Amongst the various devices connected with the lathe, many of which, even as makeshifts, are valuable to the turner, is one not generally known for keeping up the tension of the lathe cord in whatever groove of the fly wheel or pulley it may be placed. The plan is not more ingenious than practical, and the writer is acquainted with one workman, a gasfitter by trade, who has had it in constant use for many years. Directly over the mandrel pulley is another of larger diameter, in which are two grooves of equal depth, fig. 40. Thisupper pulley is suspended on a movable arm, D, which is pivoted at E, and kept up by an india-rubber spring, F, or, as in the original plan (before these rubber cumulators were known), by a cord passing over a pulley, and having a heavy weight attached, as shown by the dotted lines. In the fig. A represents the fly wheel, B the mandrel, C the upper pulley. The lathe cord is very long, and passes upwards from A, over the upper pulley in groove 1, down again and round the mandrel, a second time over groove 2 of the upper pulley and down to the fly wheel. The tension of the cord is thus always the same, and is regulated by the spring or weight. If the cord is slipped to a smaller part of the lathe pulley, the slack is instantaneously taken up by the descent of the weight, and rising of the arm D, which in like manner yields to allow the cord to be slipped to the larger groove of the mandrel pulley.

Fig. 40.

There are many other useful contrivances for chucking work in the lathe, a few of which will be noticed on a future page. The main thingto be attended to is the holding securely as well as centrally the object to be turned. If this is attained, the precise form of chuck is of little importance, and it matters not whether it be made of metal or wood. The latter has indeed, in some respects, an advantage resulting from its elasticity and the ease with which its form is modified.

We have now described the simple foot-lathe and chucks adapted for hand turning, but of the latter a great number may be provided, and will, in fact, accumulate as the turner proceeds to work upon objects of varied form and size. No chuck once made should be thrown away until it has become so reduced, from repeated alterations, as to be no longer serviceable. And now, before we commence actual turning, it will be well to offer a few concluding remarks upon the selection of a lathe. It will be evident from our previous remarks and illustrations that there is room for great diversity in the size and quality of this machine, and it is astonishing what excellent work is often turned out by an experienced hand from a lathe of the worst description. The simple pole-lathe, which is so out of date that we did not deem it worthy of notice in this series, with its reciprocating motion, like the little tool of the watchmaker, has, before now, supplied the cabinet maker with first-class work, and not many years since we ourselves stood before just such a clumsy tool, taking first lessons in the art. Our next step was to a lathe with wooden poppets, and flywheel of the same material, a mandrel made by a country blacksmith, which scarcely did evenhimcredit; the value of the whole, with stand and beechen bed complete, was £2 sterling, and sufficiently dear at that price. Now, we do not recommend such a tool, and in the present day a much better may be had at that price, but, notwithstanding its evident defects, very tolerable work may be produced from it. We state this to deter the reader from a very common fault—namely, the purchase of an expensive tool and elaborate fittings when the purse is shallow, and the skill shallower still. In fact, any amount may be spent in lathes, and in fitting up a workshop, but to gain real pleasure and satisfaction from the pursuit of the mechanical arts, the outlay should not be more than the probable result in work fairly warrants. A hundred pounds is often expended in the purchase of a lathe, and a hundred shillings would more than purchase the work done by it. We speak from our own experience in this matter, and believe our advice proportionately valuable; and we well know the satisfaction that ensues when good work has been produced in spite of the defects in the appliances at command. If the means do not admit of the purchase of a good lathe necessity must decide the question, and an inferior one musttake its place in the workshop. Nevertheless, we would rather counsel a certain amount of delay, and economy and hoarding, that a good foundation may be laid and a lathe purchased of such average excellence that future additions may convert it into a really serviceable tool.

It would be invidious and perhaps rather unfair in this little work to send the reader to any particular lathe-maker. There are several good and two or three first-class ones in London, and if prices range high, the work is at any rate of undeniable excellence.

There are also many cheaper firms than those alluded to, where the work is rather of rough-and-ready style; all depends on whatclassof work the would-be purchaser proposes to engage in, whether he intends to confine himself to plain hand-turning in wood, to the construction of steam engine, and other models of machinery in metal, or to the more beautiful finished work in hard wood and ivory, which develop the full power of the machine itself, and the skill of the accomplished turner. In the former cases, a very plain and inexpensive lathe will suffice. In the latter, it is absolutely necessary to purchase one of the best construction, at a tolerably high figure.

The best advice to those of slender means, and who, therefore, vastly predominate, is to sacrifice all else to the mandrel and collar. The latter may be bought at from twenty to thirty shillings, ready for mounting in detached wooden headstocks, and will be far superior to any that an ordinary smith can produce. In this case, the two poppets that carry the mandrel and centre screw should be connected together by a block of wood between them, which latter may be rounded off and shaped to something near the form of a cast-iron headstock.

The only care necessary in mounting such a mandrel, will be to keep the axial line parallel to the lathe-bed, and directly over the centre of the latter. Whether the mandrel is thus a separate purchase, as may happen from necessity, or obtained as part of the lathe, and fitted in a cast-iron headstock, it should certainly be hardened, and also the collar, if of steel. Both will take a higher polish for this process, and will run easier in consequence. The cost of such a mandrel is rather greater, because many warp or split in the process, and have to be thrown aside; and the labour of grinding mandrel and collar to an exact fit, is considerably increased. The gain, however, is greater than the loss to the purchaser, and the extra outlay must not, therefore, be grudged. It is very annoying to find a conical mandrel worn down by the collar after a twelvemonths' work; for a collar is thus formed on the conical part, so that it cannot be tightened up by the back screw.

The first tool to be noticed is the gouge, the form of which is a longitudinal section of a tube, and is shown inFig. 41. Of this toolnot less than three sizes should be selected, of the respective diameters of one inch, half-inch, and a quarter or three-eighths. When purchased, they require grinding, the bevel being too short. It is essential that this tool and the turning chisel have a long bevel, so that the cutting edge should be a very acute angle. (Fig. 41, not like 42.) It is impossible to do good work with the latter form of tool which is, nevertheless, of frequent occurrence in the workshops of amateurs. Both gouge and chisel must be sharpened on an oilstone (Arkansas or Turkey will be found the best) to a keen edge,and no pains must be spared in preserving the tools in this condition. Three sizes of chisel to match the gouges should be selected. The latter tool is not made like that intended for carpenter's use, with the edge at right angles to the sides, but is sloped likeFig. 43, so as to present an obtuse angle A, and an acute one B, and the cutting edge is central, the bevel being alike on both sides, so that the tool may beturned over, and used with either of the flat sides upwards. The handles of gouges and chisels should be much longer than those used by carpenters, and nicely rounded and shaped in the lathe. The most difficult thing to turn being a cylinder of soft wood; a description of the method of effecting this will be the best means of initiating the novice in the art of turning. In all the most perfect work by practised hands, there is a sharpness of edges and roundness of mouldings, that are exceedingly agreeable to the eye, and bespeak at once keenness in the tool with which the work has been done, and steadiness in the hand of the operator. The novice must aim at similar perfection, and to this end he must determine to avoid the use of sand-paper, and trust to his management of exceedingly keen tools to put a workmanlike finish to his work. To commence with the proposed cylinder. Let a piece of sound beech be selected for the first essay, as being less difficult to manage than deal, the grain of the latter tearing up in long shreds under the action of the tool. The first thing to be done, after sawing off the necessary quantity of sufficient diameter for the proposed work, is to round it off roughly by means of the hatchet and draw-knife, or spoke-shave. The next thing is to mount it in the lathe. For this purpose the prong chuck, or, better still, that represented as an improvement on the latter, and shown inFig. 23B, must be screwed on the mandrel, and the work made secure by the aid of the back poppet centre. Care should be taken that the piece runs truly between the points of support, and that it revolves steadily without shake. There is no real necessity for using the compasses, or other contrivance for finding the exact centre at each end, as sometimes recommended, neither, indeed, is it always possible thus to find the axial line. It is easy to fix it at first lightly in its place, and ascertain by a turn or two of the mandrel, how nearly it runs as it ought to do. If it seems tolerably true, a turn of the back centre fixes it securely, if not, it can be shifted in any direction at pleasure. The tyro ought, however, to be warned that he is likely to be deceived in the size of the rough piece, and that he may very probably think it of sufficient diameter for the proposed work when in reality it is too small. Practice, or the use of the callipers, which are bow-legged compasses for measuring the diameters of work, will soon settle the question. The piece being properly fixed in the lathe, the latter is to be set in motion by means of the treadle, the rest having been first fixed as near as possible without touching the piece, and the T clamped parallel to it. If the tyro wishes to become a proficient, no pains must be spared to acquire the knack of working the treadle without moving the body to-and-fro. He must learn, therefore, to stand firmly on one leg, and after the wheel has been put in motion, he must let it and the treadle have its own way. He will thus soonfeelwhen the crank has passed the deadpoint at the highest point of revolution, and the proper moment to bear down with the foot. It is not necessary to describe the precise movement, as a few trials will teach the method much better than any written description. At first it is hard work, and constant change of leg from the right to the left, and back again, will have to be resorted to to diminish the fatigue. Practice will, however, remove all difficulties, and allow the whole undivided attention to be given to the management of the tool.

Fig. 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46.

The gouge must be held down firmly on the rest with the hollow side upwards, and the bevel of the edge forming a tangent to the work,Fig. 44. In this position it will cut freely and smoothly, and the edge will be preserved. If held horizontally, as inFig. 45, it is evident that the fine edge of the tool will be immediately destroyed by the rapid blows it will receive as the rough wood revolves in contact with it. Its tendency in the latter position will be to scrape, instead of cutting, and the fibres of the wood will thus be torn out in threads, and the surface of the work be roughened. The gouge, then, being placed in the former tangential position, the right hand grasping the handle, the left the blade, as inFig. 46, the tool is to be slowly slid along the rest, and a series of light shavings, more or less continuous, will be removed from end to end of the piece. Let the workman bear in mind that the tool is to take a firm bearing on the rest, and that it must not move to-and-fro with the inequalities of the piece to be turned. It is not necessary to remove large chips unless the turner has acquired from practice perfect command over the tools, and for the adept this chapter is not written. After the most prominent inequalities have been removed, thesideof the gouge will come into use instead of the extreme end, and with this the work may be rapidly reduced to its intended size, always allowing, however, for the final cut with the chisel. Before the latter is taken up, the piece of work is to be rendered as level and true as can be done by the aid of the gouge alone; indeed, if the latter is of tolerable size, and skilfully used, a finish can be put upon the work by it almost equal to that which the chisel can produce and if the work in hand were a moulded pattern, with hollows and raised work, great part would have to depend on the gouge alone. In the present case the chisel must be used, and the method is as follows: Take a hold with both hands, as directed for the management of the gouge, but instead of the flat part lying evenly on the rest, the tool must be partly raised from it, so that only the lower edge takes a firm bearing. By this means the upper angle of the cutting edge (generallythe most acute) is kept clear of the wood, and the latter is cut away only by means of the middle and lower part of the edge, as shown inFig. 47. If placed as inFig. 48, the acute angle,a, is sure to catch and stick into the work, spoiling in two seconds all that has beendone. The chisel can be used with either of its flat sides upwards, and moved along the rest from right to left, or from left to right, or turned upside down, asFig. 49, so that the acute angle is downwards. These positions are shown in theFig. 47 to 51. The only care necessary is to keep the upper point clear, allow the chisel to rest as flatly on the wood as the above precaution will permit, and to take asfineandcontinuousshavings as possible. The chisel will be found to draw itself along in some degree as the cut proceeds, and when this action is felt, it is doing its work properly—still, it is a difficult thing to use a chisel well, and the tyro will fail many times and oft before he will succeed.

Figs. 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56.

The chances are that this initiatory lesson will result in anything but a correct cylinder—the surface will not be true like a ruler, but if tried by a straight edge it will be seen to be wavy. Tested by the callipers,Fig. 52, one part will be larger than another, even if the extreme portions be tolerably true to the proposed gauge. Now, the best turner on earth found just these difficulties, and nothing but perseverance and resolute determination will overcome them. Never mind spoiling the first piece of work, give up making it of a determined size, but do not give up making it a true cylinder. Keep the callipers at work, and gently level the prominent parts (you must work down to the size of the deepest hollow, for you cannot fill up such valleys like a railway engineer; you must throw down the adjacent hills instead), proceed gently, little by little; make the tool obey you, show it (as Ruskin speaks of pencil and brush) that you will not yield to its caprices and "henceforward it will be your most obedient servant." Having done the best you can with the surface of your cylinder, proceed to square up the ends, and mind the angle at this part is a right angle,squareandsharp, not rounded off. Now this again requires care and a knowledge of the proper method. You will work chiefly with the lower corner of the chisel, and we shall best describe the management of the tool by supposing the cylinder an inch too long, and that the extra piece is to be removed. Now there are three positions in which the chisel can be placed to bring its lower corner in contact with the cylinder. First, with the blade perpendicular to the work; secondly, with the blade inclined to the left,Fig. 53, as if to round off the end of the piece; thirdly, inclined to the right,Fig. 54. Held perpendicularly it will cut a fine line, but penetrate slightly; alternately in the other positions it will remove aV-shaped piece, and thus the cutting off is to be begun. One side of the cutting, however, has to be perpendicular, the other may be as sloping as convenient. Now, it is to be remembered incutting the upright side, which is the end of the roller, the chisel is to inclinerather to the right, for this reason,—if it incline to the left a momentary inattention will cause it to take the patha, b,Fig. 55,the tendency being to cut a spiral track towards the left. The experiment may be made by gently resting the edge thus inclined on any part of the roller, when it will describe a spiral at once. To the right, then, the chisel mustslightlyincline, and it will cut off a thin curling shaving likeFig. 56, leaving the end of the piece quite smooth and shining. When the piece is nearly cut off, great care and lightness of hand must be used, as the central portion will have become weak and ready to break off before the work is finished. When it will no longer bear the chisel, take it out of the lathe, break it off, and neatly finish with the sharp chisel the central portion, and your first lesson is learnt. There is certainly very little of interest in turning an imperfect cylinder, for it is useless when done, but the alphabet of the art, though not amusing, must be first thoroughly mastered, and the rest will follow in due course. If, however, the work seem unreasonably dull and stupid, the cylinder may be converted into a tool handle, which will be at any rate a useful article, besides affording practice. No special directions are needed in addition to the above, except in respect to the ferrule. This is to be cut off a piece of brass tubing or an old gun barrel, or it may be had at the tool shops ready cut to any size. Begin by turning down the place for this ferrule, taking care not to cut it too small or the ferrule will drop off. Take the piece out of the lathe, and with a mallet hammer on the ferrule. Return it again, taking care to centre it in the old marks, and finish the handle. The brass or iron may be polished with a file for this first attempt.

It is now necessary to speak of hollowing out wood for the purpose of making boxes, cup chucks, &c., and the latter, which may be made in any quantity, and of all sizes, will afford excellent practice in this part of the turner's art. The majority of work of this kind is done rather by scraping or fretting out than by cutting; side tools of the forms ofFigs. 51 and 56being used for the purpose. These however, are specially adapted for ivory and hard woods, the grain of which, being very compact and close, is not torn out in shreds by the action of such tools, as would be the case with softer woods. Where the latter material is used in quantity, as in the manufacture of wooden bowls, hook tools, likeFig. 57, are made use of, which cut on their upper edges. These are exceedingly difficult to use, though the practised hands of those brought up to the art, make them cut with a surprising ease and rapidity—fairly surrounding the lathe with a ceaseless cloud of fine shavings removed in the progress of the work. The difficulty experienced in the use of these tools is not confined to the novice, for the majority of turners accustomed to hardwood often cut a sorry figure in the manipulation of softer material with the aid of the tools in question. The hard and soft wood turners form, in point of fact, two distinct branches of the trade. We have in part anticipated this section, by speaking of the making a wooden chuck when describing the use of the metal chuck with taper screw. We shall, therefore, proceed to describe the best method of turning a plain wooden box with cover, but not screwed; the latter being reserved for more extended notice hereafter. The best material to work upon is sound Turkey boxwood, and care must be taken that it is quite dry and well seasoned, or, after it is worked up with, it may be, great care and trouble, the box will split, or the cover become so loose as to fall off, either fatality being sufficiently vexatious. We may mention, in passing, that hard woods of all descriptions may be had in large or small quantities of Messrs. Fauntleroy[2]and Co., 110, Bunhill-row, Finsbury, or of Jacques and Sons, Covent-garden. Most of the lathe-makers also supply it, especially Holtzapffel and Co., of Charing-cross, but the first-named is a large dealer, wholesale and retail, and his charges are moderate.

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