Wheel Cutting in the Lathe.

Fig. 162.

Fig. 162.

Figs. 163, 164.

Figs. 163, 164.

Fig. 166.

Fig. 166.

Fig. 165.

Fig. 165.

Fig. 167.

Fig. 167.

Figs. 168, 169.

Figs. 168, 169.

Figs. 170, 171.

Figs. 170, 171.

InFig. 171the half nuts slide up and down on the front of the saddle, and are moved by a circular plate on the outside. The action is very similar to that ofFig. 167, intervening links, attached to the plate and to the halves of the nuts, giving motion to the latter as required. Cams and eccentrics of varied forms are also made use of for the same purpose, every lathe maker devising new and improved movements from time to time. There is indeed little difficulty in arranging a satisfactory method, the best being that which is under easy control, of adequate strength, and not likely to be easily disarranged by the rough treatment it is liable to receive at the hands of the workman. The leading screw may either be placed on the outside, in front of the bed next to the workman, or inside between the bearers. The former is preferable as being more accessible, but it is rather more exposed to injury. When between the bearers the large saddle of the slide rest serves to protect it from the falling chips and shavings of metal which,mixing with the oil, are apt to clog the threads and add to the friction of the parts, besides increasing considerably the wear and tear, and no accidental blow is likely to reach the screw thus protected on both sides by the lathe bed. Nevertheless, all the various parts of a machine should be made as accessible as possible, and, with the exercise of ordinary care in its preservation, the position outside is on the whole the best. If the lathe bed is very long, it may be desirable to support the screw by allowing it to rest on friction wheels fixed to the saddle at both ends, or by allowing it to pass through a pair of brasses. Thus, as the saddle is often two feet in length, such bearings at each end, with the split nut between the two, form points of support which go far to prevent the screw from jagging or bending in the middle from its own weight.

The general arrangement of self-acting tools is similar with all the makers.Fig. 172is a drawing of such a tool from a sketch of Eades & Son, an old firm in Lichfield-street, Birmingham, the screw being here placed in front. Whitworth, the eminent mechanician of Manchester, makes many lathes with the screw between the beds. He also uses a double slide rest, with a tool working at each side of the piece to be turned, which cannot thus spring away from the cut. This is called a duplex slide rest. By this method double the cut is taken, and the strain upon the work lessened. In addition to the screw there is usually a rack attached to the lathe bed, on the furthest side, and a cog wheel working upon this, attached to the back of the slide rest saddle, is turned by a handle in front of the rest,Fig. 173. This enables the workman, after having, by means of the screw, completed the cut to the end of the work, to run the rest back again very quickly, having first released the split nut from the screw. The tool is thus brought into position for the next cut far more rapidly than could be managed by reversing the motion of the screw. This is called, therefore, the quick return motion, and is almost always attached to the larger class of machine-lathes. Before entering upon the details of other forms of gearing, and the arrangement of change-wheels for cutting screws or for plain turning, we shall introduce a few remarks upon the often-repeated question as to the advisability of self-acting lathes for the purposes of the amateur. It must be remembered that the chief object of such a lathe is the manufacture of large screws, long shafts, and such work as the piston rods of engines, requiring perfect accuracy from one end to the other. Boring cylinders and similar work is now generally done in an upright or vertical boring machine, which is for many reasons more convenient. This class ofwork, of course, the amateur has nothing to do with. The traverse of an ordinary slide rest is generally adequate for surfacing or boring to a length of six inches, which is sufficient for most purposes, and can readilybe done by turning the leading screw of the rest by hand. Then, as regards screw cutting in the lathe, it is questionable whether it is not easier to turn up the blank and cut with stock and dies. The thread thus formed is a copy of that of the tool, and the latter, as made by Whitworth and other first-class makers, is as perfect as machinery directed by talented workmen can produce. If it is really desirable, however, to make use of the lathe for this purpose, the plan already suggested is generally applicable, namely, gearing the leading screw of the slide rest to the mandrel, either by means of change-wheels attached to an arm, or by connection with the overhead pulleys. There is, in addition, a plan of attaching a pair of dies to the tool holder of the rest, after detachment of the screw from its nut, which may be available in some cases. There are also screw plates made in two halves, the plates being divided lengthwise and clamped together at pleasure, admitting of application to any screw-blank while revolving in the lathe; and, lastly, pairs of dies, fitted like pliers, can be similarly used by hand without any slide rest. On the whole, then, it will hardly pay to give £50, or £60, for a screw-cutting lathe that is merely destined for small work; that can be done sufficiently well in a common lathe with hand motion to the rest. For cutting short screws, such as those of boxes, a convenient and practically useful contrivance is still a desideratum. The traversing mandrel is, no doubt, the best, but it is an expensive pattern, if well made, and it is necessary to sacrifice, in a measure, general utility to questionable and certainly partial advantage. Turning is, moreover, an art, and to attain skill in it, perseverance and practice are necessary—hence the zest experienced in its pursuit by the real lover of it. This perseverance pays, and to attain the skill required to trace a short screw with the chasing tool is within the reach of any one who desires to accomplish it. The art once acquired, the desire for a traversing mandrel ceases; for no good workman would accept a contrivance of the kind when he can more easily and quickly accomplish his end without it. Writing this for the special benefit of amateurs, we would strongly advise them not to throw away money to purchase the means of doing what after all they will probably never, and certainly only seldom, carry into practice. The pleasure afforded by all the mechanical arts is greatly enhanced by meeting with and triumphantly surmounting all sorts of difficulties. Let it be a standing rule of our readers to make use of the appliances at hand instead of seeking others which only savetrouble and render skill unnecessary. What can be more aggravating than for an amateur, with his hundred guinea lathe and chests of tools, to be obliged to take his work to a mechanic, and to see him, whose whole stock might be bought with perhaps a tenth part of the money, take in hand and finish with ease what has baffled the skill of his more wealthy patron? The common fault of the amateur is undue hurry. To him time is seldom an object, yet the mechanic, to whom it is so precious, readily spends more upon his work. He never hurries, never compromises, but with lathe and file fits the several parts of his work with the most patient care and practised skill. The result is at once seen when his productions are placed side by side with those of the zealous but too hasty amateur.

It remains, as previously described, to arrange certain cogwheels gearing with each other upon the spindle of the mandrel and upon the end of the screw, to enable the workman at pleasure to vary their ratio of speed, in order to give him the means of regulating the pitch of thread to be cut. For this purpose a set of change wheels is supplied with the screw-cutting lathe, the number of cogs in which usually commencing at fifteen, increase by five, until the number one hundred and twenty is reached, then increasing by ten up to the complete set. Duplicates of some numbers are also convenient. The method of finding the proper sized wheels is, of course, based upon the proportion borne by the required pitch to that of the leading screw and one form of calculation for the purpose has already been given. Thus, supposing the leading screw to have two threads to the inch, it must revolve twice to move the tool that distance, and if we wish to cut a screw of ten threads to the inch, the work on the mandrel must revolve ten times while the leading screw revolves twice, or, which is the same thing, the mandrel must revolve five times while the screw revolves once. The cogs in the wheels must therefore be in the proportion of five to one, say fifty on the screw and ten on the mandrel, with an idle wheel on the stud to cause the motion of the tool to be such as will cut a right-handed thread, or to cause the mandrel and screw to take the same direction. Now, it seldom happens that two wheels and an idle one will give the requisite speed to the tool, and the number of cogs required soon mounts to inconvenient numbers. In this case, therefore, according to a principle already laid down, a stud-wheel with a pinion attached to the same, is placed in the train of wheels, and the object readily attained. A modification of the rule of calculation may make the system of change wheels still clearer. Let the pitch of guide screw be as before, namely, two threads to the inch, and let five be required. Place the numbers thus, 2-5, and divide both into their factors, twice one, or 2 × 1, and twice two and a half, or 2½ × 2.

2     1/2½..2

Now, it is certain you can have no wheels containing half notches, nor of such small numbers of cogs, therefore multiply by any convenient numbers—ten, for instance, which give

20..10/25..20

This is all that is needed. Put a wheel of twenty cogs on the mandrel, and let it work into one of twenty-five on the stud, the latter carrying a pinion of ten cogs, driving one of twenty cogs on the screw. To prove this, as before, the screw must make two revolutions to carry the tool one inch, and during that time the mandrel (carrying screws to be cut) must make five revolutions. Let the screw wheel revolve twice, the pinion of ten teeth will revolve four times (twice 20 = 40 and four times 10 = 40); but as the stud wheel and pinion are as one, and revolve together, the stud wheel must also revolve four times (4 × 25 = 100). Thus the mandrel wheel will revolve five times as required (20 × 5 = 100). No other method is so easy to understand and work as the above. To give full details and provide working drawings of the various screw cutting lathes by different makers would be to extend the present series to an unnecessary limit, but we shall nevertheless describe another method by which these lathes with traversing rests are made self-acting when screw cutting is not required. Instead of a leading screw extending from one end of the lathe to the other, there extends a bar of steel about the diameter of the screw with a key groove or slot from end to end. This bar is supported in bearings at each end, and carries upon its surface a ferrule of steel with a screw cut upon its outside similar toFig. 174, where A is the bar and B the ferrule. The pitch of screw is coarse, being similar in its object to the guide screw previously described. A pin fixed into this ferrule falling into the slot permitsit to travel along the bar but causes both to revolve together when the bar is put in motion by means of a cog wheel or strap pulley at one end. Along the same side of the lathe bed, and level with the surface, is a rack, C, upon the face of which works a pinion, D, carrying on the same axis a cog or rather worm wheel, E, to gear with the screw ferrule. The bearings of this axis are secured to the saddle of the slide rest. Consequently, when the bar revolves, the screw is also put in motion, the wheel, A,Fig. 175, and pinion, B, partake of the movement, and the latter traverses the face of the rack, carrying the saddle with its rest and tool holder along the bed of the lathe. By this movement the screw ferrule traverses the bar as it revolves, thereby virtually becoming a long leading screw. InFig. 176, which is a view from above, looking down upon the lathe bed, A is the rack, B, B, the saddle cut away to show the rack and pinion C; E is the worm wheel, D the long bar, the screw ferrule, being under the worm wheel, is not visible. As above arranged it is evident that the ferrule might escape from the worm wheel instead of proceeding on its proper course. This is prevented by its lying in the hollow of a bracket attached to the rest, asFig. 177, A and B. This retains it in contact with the worm wheel, andalso becomes a support to the long bar.Fig. 174shows the side of the lathe that is furthest from the operator. The axle of the worm wheel and pinion carries a handle on the near side to give the workman power to use the rack by hand as a quick return movement. The above is frequently attached to those lathes provided with a long screw, the latter being on the near side and the bar on the other. Thus, the same lathe can be used for ordinary or screwed work. Whitworth, however, commonly uses the long screw placed between the beds or bearers of the lathe for screwing and surfacing, instead of adding the apparatus just described. A long screw being, however, an expensive affair, ought to be carefully cherished, and when the work is such as the bar will suffice to accomplish, it may be well made use of to preserve the screw. There is an arrangement for forward or cross-feed in the above apparatus, the principle of which is the connection of the cross screw of the rest by means of a pinion, either with the worm wheel or with a cogwheel on the same axle. When this is put into gear the rack and pinion are disconnected. It is also necessary to provide a method of reversing the motion of the long screw bar, especially when the cross feed is used in surfacing. There are several modes of accomplishing this, the best being the following,Fig. 178, which is a simple expedient applicable to lathes or other machines. A is the end of the screw rod, with bevel wheel attached, B, C, are similar wheels on the axle, D, the latter being movable endwise in its bearings by means of the lever handle; E, D, is the driving axle. By moving the lever to the right B is geared to A. A movement to the left brings C into connection. Between the two, both wheels are thrown out of gear, and though they may continue to revolve, the screw bar will remain still. By this contrivance the motion of the leading screw is reversed or stopped in a second, with the advantage of its being unnecessary at the same time to stop the working of the lathe altogether. It has probably struck the reader that as the size of the change wheels are various, there would be in some cases an impossibility of their touching so as to gear together. This is partly remedied by the interposition of dummies, or idle wheels, and partly by the following arrangement. The stud wheel, or dummies, as the case may be, are not upon axles fixed to the lathe-head or end standard, but upon such an arm asFig. 179, which turns upon a pin at A, and carries in the slot the pinsupon which the different wheels centre. These pins being made similar to B, C, can be placed at any position in this slot, and are fixed by a nut underneath. This arrangement gives considerable power of adjustment, and enables the workman to place together wheels of various sizes according to his need. It would not be by any means difficult to arrange the above lathe for screw-cutting, especially if the pitch of the required screw is not of great importance. An amateur's lathe might be thus fitted to serve a good many purposes, although a leading screw is to be preferred as the more complete and perfect arrangement. It cannot, however, be denied that there is great friction produced by the worm wheel and endless screw, which soon tells its own tale by the wear and tear produced, and the power is not so economically used as it is when the screw works in a nut. Expediency, however, in this, as in many similar cases, must decide for or against the arrangement in any particular case. It is, at any rate, a good addition to a lathe provided with an ordinary leading screw, more especially in the facility with which it can be arranged as a self-acting cross-feed to the rest when used for surfacing.

Fig. 172.

Fig. 172.

Fig. 173.

Fig. 173.

Fig. 174.

Fig. 174.

Figs. 175, 177.

Figs. 175, 177.

Fig. 176.

Fig. 176.

Fig. 178.

Fig. 178.

Fig. 179.

Fig. 179.

Among the various uses to which a lathe may be put, wheel-cutting is one of the most important, so many pieces of mechanism requiring cogged wheels of various pitches and forms of tooth. By the aid of the slide rest such an apparatus as figured may be readily arranged, and the work rapidly and accurately performed. The guide by which the cogs and spaces are determined is the division plate already alluded to, and which is not visible in the present drawing, but the index of which is shown at G. C is the cutter frame with a side pulley (one on each side) to conduct the catgut band from the revolving spindle to the overhead motion on to the flywheel. The spindle carries a pulley for the cord and a cutter wheel, I, to which an exceedingly rapid evolution is given. There are many patterns of these wheels, the edges of which, cut into teeth like a fine saw or file, are the exact form of the spaces required between the cogs; hence, some are rectangular,some have a triangular section. The thicker the wheel to be cut the larger should be the cutter, so that the bottom of the cut may be virtually level.InFig. 181another form of cutter is shown, which if put into sufficiently rapid motion answers as well, if not better, than the wheel-shaped cutters. It is a simple short bar of hard steel, with the edges bevelled in alternate directions, fitted into a slot in the spindle and held by a wedge or screw. The shape of the end is as before, a cross section of the space between two teeth. The cutter frame is here arranged to fit into the ordinary tool-holder of the slide rest, but the form may, of course, be varied at pleasure. It will be noticed that the slide rest, as delineated here, is different to that of which details have been given. It is made without the sole, and fits into the socket of an ordinary rest. Thus it can be turned on a centre, and becomes, to all intents and purposes, a compound slide rest. It is on this plan the small ornamental turning rest of lighter construction is made. The spindle fitting the socket projects from the centre of the lowest frame, and is cast in one piece with it. If the apparatus is compactly and strongly made, it becomes a very serviceable form, and is much used for the small lathes in sea-going steamers. The sides are made very short, so that the extent of traverse is small. We may here mention an addition to the rest socket, enabling the workman to raise this kind, or that used with drills and cutters, which is simple and convenient. Inside the iron socket a few turns of a screw are cut, and a second socket of brass with an outside thread is made to fit into it Figs.182 A and B, the latter being a section. The edge of the inside socket is sometimes milled round, to facilitate holding it by the thumb and finger. In this way the height of the slide rest, or tee of the common rest, is adjustable to a great nicety.

Figs. 180, 181.

Figs. 180, 181.

Fig. 182.

Fig. 182.

When a wheel is to be cut of large size, or of substance exceeding that of clock-wheel work, the above method is not suitable. The wheel is then generally laid flat, and the cogs are shaped by a slotting machine, the chisel of which has a vertical motion. The lathe is then no longer used; as a separate machine is more convenient and economical.

A most serviceable addition to a lathe, especially an amateur's foot lathe, is the circular saw, with guides for cutting parallel, taper, or mitred work. Great rapidity of work is thus combined with perfect accuracy. A five-inch lathe will of course take a saw nearly ten inches diameter, but it is not advisable to attach one of quite this size, for the larger the saw the greater is the leverage against which the turner has to contend, andthe friction caused by a deep cut in stuff of two inches diameter is quite sufficient to make the labour considerable. When such work is necessary, it must be very gently brought to bear upon the saw, and the flywheel of the lathe should be heavy. The cord should also pass from the latter to the slowest division of the pulley. If the workman, amateur or professional, desires a lesson in practical mechanics, he has nothing to do but turn a piece of ash six inches in diameter, with the lathe-cord extending from the flywheel to the smallest part of the pulley, the diameter of which is about half that of the object to be turned. This will teach him what hard work is. Then let him try the job with the cord, from the smallest part of the flywheel rim, to the largest diameter of pulley. The change to a slower motion and greater power will not be disagreeable. It must be remembered that a circular saw of six inches diameter will not penetrate three-inch stuff, owing to the boss or nut by which it is attached to its spindle. The above size will not make good work of stuff exceeding two inches in thickness, and even less thickness would be preferable. As to the size of saw, indeed, that is most suitable to a five or six-inch foot lathe, much depends upon the proposed work, and still more upon the weight and size of the flywheel. As a general rule it is better to err upon the size of smallness. The service to which this tool is commonly put is but light; sawing narrow strips of mahogany, such as used at the angles of bird-cages, cutting strips or segments of ivory (for which let the saw be kept wet) sawing out mitred or dovetailed joints, and similar work is within the compass of a five or six inch saw, and it is better not to exceed this. The teeth should be tolerably fine for hardwood and ivory, and coarser for deal and soft woods. Smaller saws of hard steel, and made of thick plate, are used for metal.

Figs. 183, 184.

Figs. 183, 184.

Fig. 184, 185.

Fig. 184, 185.

Fig. 184A.

Fig. 184A.

The method of mounting saws of small size, such as are suited to be worked by the treadle of a foot-lathe, is shown inFig. 183. E is a steel spindle, of which the diameter equals that of the central hole in the saw B. At F, about the middle of the spindle, is a fixed flange, at the base of which is a short feather or inlaid key, X184, which fits the small slot seen in the centre of the saw andreaches also within a similar slot in the movable flange, G, but it must not be so long as to come through to the back of the latter. This flange and nut H having been removed, the saw is slid upon the spindle till it rests against the fixed flange; the movable one is now to be brought against it and clamped by the nut. The spindle is sometimes made with a square end to fit the square hole chuck, and centred at the other, or it is drilled at both ends, so as to be driven by the carrier or driver chuck, C, D. It must be so placed as to run towards the operator. The above arrangement must now be made complete by the addition of a platform, B, on which to lay the work that is to be sawn, and on which some contrivance can be adjusted to guide the passage of the saw through the same, so as to cut the work in parallel pieces, or at any desired angle, such as would be necessary for mitred joints. For the general uses of the amateur a mahogany or hardwood platform is as good as any, and such as is delineated in vol. ii. of Holtzapffel's valuable work is perhaps the best arrangement. The saw table rests on the opposite ends of a kind of open box, which is represented without the two sides, although they may be added if desired, and the whole when removed from the lathe would then form a case for the saws, or serve other similar purpose. The platform is hinged, so as to overlap, as seen in theFig. 184A, and there is in the middle of it a slit cut by the saw itself, which, when it is mounted on its centres will be in the position shown. If sides are added a notch must be made in the upper edge of both for the passage of the spindle. The fillet B fits between the bearers of the lathe, securing the parallelism of the whole. When made with four sides the box must first be placed on the lathe bed and loosely held by the bolt beneath. The saw is then mounted, and the box adjusted to its place and fixed. The cover is then (if for the first time) brought carefully down upon the saw, and the lathe being put in motion the slit is made, and its position will be truly at rightangles with the spindle and the lathe bed. Of course, in future operations the platform is lowered over the saw before the holding down bolt is permanently screwed up. The sides of the saw-kerf may be edged with brass if preferred, but on the whole the plan is not to be recommended, for if, as will occasionally happen, the saw should get slightly out of truth, or vibrate a little when in use, the teeth will come into contact with the metal and be blunted or broken. If the saw-kerf by constant wear should widen too much, the whole platform is renewable at little cost, or a new piece can be let in, and a fresh saw-kerf made. There are several guides for parallel work. The one shown inFig. 185is precisely such as is to be seen in the ordinary parallel ruler—A is the back bar screwed to the platform at the right-hand edge; B the guide or fence which, when the connecting links C, C are perpendicular to A, should touch the saw; D, D are arcs of circles of which E, E are the centres. They may be arcs of brass pivoted to the links and passing through a slot in the bar, A, A, or may themselves be cut as mortises in the platform, in which fit a pair of bolts with thumb-nuts passing through the links, by which to clamp the fence in any desired position. This form of parallel guide is not very substantial, and is not correct in practice unless the pins are very nicely fitted, and the links precisely of a length. The second figure shows the sectional form of the fence G, the links being represented at H, and the fixed bar at K. The following is a more solid and unyielding guide, and much to be preferred. Holtzapffel attributes it to Professor Willis. It is merely a modification of the T-square as used with the ordinary drawing board with an arrangement for fixing it in the required position. The present arrangement differs from that in Holtzapffel's work in the manner of fixing it and the addition of a second T-piece on the side next the workman. InFig. 186A is the upright part of the fence, B the bottom or sole, to which is attached at each end the T or cross pieces, E, E, which slide along the straight edges of the platform and secure the constant parallelism of the fence to the surface of the saw; C is the groove or slot, in which a screw, D, traverses, and the fence is thus fixed by a turn of the thumb-nut, D. This fence can by no possibility get out of truth; it is easilyremoved by taking out the single screw, and it is far more simple and more easily made than the one previously described. The nearest edge of the platform may be marked in inches and eighths, and the fence can then be instantaneously adjusted for sawing pieces of any desired width. It is not always, however, that straight, rectangular, or parallel strips are required, and an additional arrangement is needed to form a guide for sawing angular pieces. Now it is not sufficient to lay the guide fence at a given angle, for if the latter were arranged for that adjustment by taking off the tees and causing it to turn upon the screw which secures it in place, and a piece of board were placed against it to be sawn, the latter would press against the saw sideways as seen inFig. 187. The guide fence for angles must itself therefore travel in a line parallel to the saw and carry with it the piece to be cut. The simplest and usual arrangement is that given in Holtzapffel's work. A dovetailed groove in the platform running in a direction parallel with the saw carries a sector attached to a bar which fits the groove, and this bar is free to move forward or backward without lateral movement. The piece to be sawn is thus rested against the fence forming the straight face of the sector, and the whole is moved forward together against the edge of the saw.Fig. 188explains this. It will be seen that several grooves are made side by side, all of which fit the slide alike, and by moving the latter into either of these a lateral adjustment is effected to suit pieces of different widths. The sliding stripshould be made of hard wood and nicely fitted, and may be lubricated with soap, or polished with black lead, either of which will cause it to slide with diminished friction.Fig. 189shows a somewhat different arrangement, by which more lateral adjustment may be given. The sector is replaced by a T-square, the blade of which has a slot through which a screw passes into the sliding bar. A second jointed rod is added, passing through a staple in the slide, and by a screw in the latter the T is fixed as required. The staple must turn on a centre to accommodate itself to all positions of the T-square, and a second eye may be placed on the opposite arm to allow the guide rod to be removed to that side, which is sometimes more convenient. The sector also may be made adjustable as inFig. 190, and clamped by a simple screw in the slot. Either of the above methods will allow sufficient range for small work, such as is likely to be the object of amateurs or those who add small saws to the foot lathe. The guide for angular pieces may indeed be in many cases dispensed with by making use of patterns of wood chiefly in the form of triangles; these sliding against the parallel guide, and carrying the work with them, will answer well in a number of cases where other provision for such work has not been made in arranging the saw table. It must be remembered, however, that in this case the length of the piece (supposing it to be the side of a picture frame to be mitred) is limited to the space between the fence and the saw, which in the more perfect arrangement is an evil plainly avoided. It may sometimes be necessary to cut pieces with various angles not in the same plane. By using the hinged platform, and adding a screw attached to the front of the box, and standing perpendicularly, the front of the table can be raised to a given angle, but those who are likely to enter extensively into the cutting mathematical figures are referred to vol. ii. of Holtzapffel's work, where the subject is fully explained and illustrated. The following remarks upon the proper speed of saws and sizes of teeth are copied from that work, and may therefore be relied on:—

"The harder the wood the smaller and more upright should be the teeth, and the less the velocity of the saw.

"The harder the wood the smaller and more upright should be the teeth, and the less the velocity of the saw.

"In cutting with the grain the teeth should be coarse and inclined, so as rather to remove shreds than sawdust."In cutting across the grain the teeth should be finer and more upright, and the velocity greater, so that each fibre may be cut by the passage of some few of the consecutive teeth rather than be torn asunder by the passage of one tooth only."For gummy or resinous woods and ivory, the saw teeth must be keen, and the speed comparatively slow, to avoid the dust becoming adhesive (by reason of the heat engendered by friction), and thus sticking to, and impeding the action of the saw."

"In cutting with the grain the teeth should be coarse and inclined, so as rather to remove shreds than sawdust.

"In cutting across the grain the teeth should be finer and more upright, and the velocity greater, so that each fibre may be cut by the passage of some few of the consecutive teeth rather than be torn asunder by the passage of one tooth only.

"For gummy or resinous woods and ivory, the saw teeth must be keen, and the speed comparatively slow, to avoid the dust becoming adhesive (by reason of the heat engendered by friction), and thus sticking to, and impeding the action of the saw."

Fig. 186.

Fig. 186.

Fig. 187.

Fig. 187.

Fig. 188.

Fig. 188.

Fig. 189.

Fig. 189.

Fig. 190.

Fig. 190.

By raising the platform so as only to expose a small portion of the saw, it is easy to cut rebates, grooves for tongueing, and other work of a similar kind. The above arrangement of hinged table facilitates this application of the saw.

Convenient as the circular saw is when fitted as an adjunct to the lathe, its use is confined to pieces which are rectilineal. Curved lines cannot be cut by its means, and as it must frequently happen that portions of the proposed work are composed of arcs of various dimensions, it becomes necessary to provide the means of cutting them out. We may remark here, that although the circular saw, and that of which we are about to speak may be fitted to mount on the ordinary lathe bed; it is better for many reasons to have a separate stand, made like that of the lathe, but smaller, and fitted with crank, treadle, and flywheel, to serve for the various purposes of sawing, grinding, or polishing; the latter operations especially soiling and tending to damage the lathe. The above description of the methods of mounting circular saws will answer for a separate stand, as will the following details of saws for curvilinear work. In respect of the latter we have to provide for the perpendicular motion of the blade, which is necessarily thin and narrow, and also for stretching the blade so as effectually to prevent it from bending or buckling—guides are not required in general, as the work is moved about by hand in all directions according to the intricacies of pattern to be traced. For plain circular pieces, however, a very simple expedient is sometimes used, which will be described in its proper place, when treating of Bergeron'sscie mecanique. The guides for parallel motion are various, and a selection may be made from the followingFig. 191. No. 1 is the arrangement used by Professor Willis, and detailed in Holtzapffel's work. A, A are wooden springs, one above, the other below the platform B. C is a guide pulley, D an eccentric. The catgut band which gives motion to the saw may be passed round this, or affixed to a metal ring as in the eccentric of a steam engine—or may be attached to a ring slipped over the pin of a crank disc, as shown at E. This pin being adjustable, permits the traverse of the saw to be regulated, which gives it perhaps an advantage over the first method. In the above the motion of the saw is not truly in a right line, but the deviation in so short a traverse is unimportant. The reader may, perhaps, imagine wooden springs a somewhat primitive expedient, but this is by no means the case, as they will retain their elasticity longer than metal ones when they are subjected to the rapid vibration which they are called upon to undergo. No. 2 is the parallel guide, used by Mr. Lund, and also described by Holtzapffel; the metal springs, however, shown by the latter being here replaced by india-rubber, which is now formed into springs of various sizes and powers suitable for our present and many similar purposes. A, A, and D, here form guide pulleys, the saw, E, being suspended from the first by the two catgut bands, on the ends of which are the india-rubber springs, F, F. The lower end of the saw is attached to another catgut band which passes over the pulley, D, and thence to the eccentric or crank disc as before. The platform is at B, B.Number 3is an arrangement similar to thebeam of Newcomen's engines. The arc at the end of the oscillating rod, and from the furthest point of which the saw is suspended, forms the guide for parallelism. Underneath the platform the pulley and eccentric may be used as before, and the saw is raised by the spring attached to the arc as shown. It will be evident on inspection that this arrangement is similar in principal to the last, as the arc forms part of a large wheel of which the centre is the point of oscillation. Watt's parallel motion, represented in the next diagram, is also suitable, the saw being attached to the centre of the short link—the springs being so contrived as to act upon the ends of the longer bars. With regard to the means of producing the necessary rapidity of movement, the above-described eccentric or crank disc can hardly be surpassed. In the saw patented lately by Mr. Cunningham, the disc is attached to the mandrel like a chuck, and the crank pin is connected to the oscillating rods that carry the saw by an intervening rod or link.

Fig. 191, no. 1 and 2.

Fig. 191, no. 1 and 2.

Fig. 191, no. 3 and 4.

Fig. 191, no. 3 and 4.

Fig. 192.

Fig. 192.

The whole is represented inFig. 192, which is copied from the inventor's circular. There is a satisfactory parallel motion, and an india-rubber ball with a small tube attached is pressed at every stroke to blow away the sawdust. The whole plan and details are as good probably as can be devised, and as an addition to the lathe this saw is invaluable. Another form of mechanical saw to work with the foot, but without any flywheel, is figured by Bergeron, and is thence copied into Holtzapffel's book, and would therefore have been omitted here were it not that the price of Holtzapffel's work places it beyond the reach of many whom it is specially qualified to instruct; and that the former is in French and has not been translated. Therefore, as the arrangement of saw is exceedingly good, the writer has determined to introduce it here. Its construction is simple enough to be within the reach of any amateur in carpentry, and the only metal work required consists of a few iron rods screwed at the ends, such as the village blacksmith can readily supply. The saws are precisely those sold as turn or web-saw blades. It must be understood that the use of this tool is not the same as that to whichfret or buhl saws are applied, but merely the cutting of boards in strips or curved pieces, such as the felloes of small wheels, circular plates to be finished in the lathe, as bread platters, or such other curvilinear works as the chair or pattern maker is accustomed to cut out with the several sizes of frame saws.

A, B,Fig. 193, is a stout bench with cross bar, C, underneath, cut away to allow of the movement of the treadle and its rod. On the top of the bench is a pillar, D, to support the spring bow E, by which after depression the saw is raised to its original position. F, F, and G, G, are guide rods (not continuous). The lower ones are fixed to the cross bar,c, and under side of the bench. The upper form the sides of a rectangular frame, H, H, of which the top and bottom bars of wood are dovetailed at the back to slide up and down the chamfered bar behind them, K. The frame thus allows of being raised or lowered, not only to suit work of various thicknesses, but also to act as a stop to prevent the saw from lifting thework as it ascends. The lower bar is extended on one side as in the figure, and is divided into inches, and on this graduated part is a slide with a point below, which can be fixed by a screw. This is, as the drawing plainly shows, intended for the guidance of the wood in cutting circular pieces. The saw is similar to the ordinary framed saw used by chair makers, but has two blades, and one central stretcher. The saw for curved work is narrow, that for straight cutting is broader. Near the latter a parallel guide is fixed, as described when treating of circular saws. This simple contrivance, although planned so many years ago, is of great value, and deserves to be far more generally known. To the joiner and cabinet-maker it would form a most useful addition to the usual tools of the workshop.


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