Equal quantities sliced oyster plant and celery cooked; water, cream, with or without a little flour to thicken, salt.
Cook oyster plant, drain, add water to liquor to make 3½ cups. Whenboiling, thicken and add corn, oyster plant and cream, with salt. Heat, serve.
Heat butter, add flour, then hot water; stir into corn with salt; heat, turn over whipped cream in soup tureen and send to table at once.
Butter may be omitted, and the water thickened with flour.
Cook onion in nut milk (made by blending raw nut butter and water) until tender, add the cucumbers and cook 5 m., add celery salt and milk, thicken with flour; rub through colander, add salt, milk or water to thin if necessary, and cream, whipped or plain. Serve immediately.
Cook cabbage 20–25 m., in just enough water to cook it tender. Add milk, heat, strain. Heat butter and the 2 teaspns. of flour and add cabbage flavored milk.
Thicken tomato with 1 tablespn. of flour and add thickened milk just before serving. Add salt the last thing. Turn over whipped cream in soup tureen or serve the cream by teaspoonfuls on each plate of soup. Cream may be omitted.
Milk may be flavored with onion instead of cabbage, or not flavored at all, but the cabbage gives an exceptionally fine flavor to the combination. Equal quantities of milk and tomato may be used, or twice as much milk as tomato, remembering to thicken both milk and tomato (if all the flour is put into the milk it makes it too thick to blend well with the tomato), to combine just before serving, and to add the salt last.
Cook milk, water, oil and eggs the same as a boiled custard. Remove from fire, add the hot tomato gradually, stirring, then salt. Serve at once.
Stir butter smooth with tomato, add boiling water, heat and add plenty of salt. This soup requires no flavoring, but onion, garlic, mint, caraway, or a delicate flavoring of thyme, are all nice with it.
2 tablespns. raw nut butter cooked in water ½ to 1 hr., instead of the roasted nut butter. Flavor with onion, garlic, or delicately with thyme, if desired.
Heat milk, onion and celery in double boiler for 20 m., strain, pour liquid over oil and flour heated (without browning) in saucepan; add salt and celery salt and turn on to spinach (which has been cooked and chopped fine or rubbed through a colander) gradually, stirring. Serve hot.
Many of the chowders are almost a “full meal” in themselves. I can think of no luncheon more delightful than a nut chowder with finger croutons, beaten biscuit or whole wheat wafers, with fruit or other not too rich, dessert.
Raw nut butter may be used in all these chowders in place of butter or oil, giving a meaty flavor.
A smaller proportion of liquid may be used when desired. The vegetable strainings left from a consommé, rubbed through the colander, make an excellent foundation for chowders.
Heat oil (without browning) in kettle, add onions, simmer 10 m., then add the water, boiling, with salt and potatoes. Cook until potatoes are just tender, not soft; add the milk, hot, and then the corn. Heat to boiling and serve with crackers. When fresh grated corn is used, of course it should be cooked in a double boiler for 10–15 m. before adding to chowder.
The chowder may be thickened a trifle if the larger quantity of milk is used, but the smaller is the usual quantity. Sometimes only one-half as much potato as of corn is used.
Dried corn chopped after soaking makes an unusually fine chowder.
Water and cream are better than milk.
A little browned flour is thought by some to be an improvement.
Fine chopped trumese gives the chowder a little more of the seashore effect.
Heat onion and carrot in oil, add water, cook tender, add hot milk, and corn with salt. Heat.
½–¾ cup of tomato may be added for variety.
Rub nut butter smooth with water, add the tomato and more water; cook ½ hour. Cook together carrots and onion and add without draining to nut butter stock. Cook celery till perfectlytender and add with the water in which it was cooked; add salt, nutmese and trumese, eggs, parsley and cream, with more water if required. Let stand a few minutes and serve.
One cup of oyster plant with the water in which it was cooked is a great improvement. ½ cup of turnip in dice, cooked by itself and drained, and a few pieces of cooked red beet, in fancy shapes, may be added just as the chowder goes to the table.
Rub nut butter smooth with water, heat to boiling, add salt and onions, cook 10 m., add potatoes and cook until tender. Finish with water and cream, or water alone. 1 cup finely-sliced celery may be cooked with the potato instead of the onion, and chopped parsley added at the last.
Nut butter may be omitted and cream used.
Simmer onion, carefully, in oil until tender, add tomato, heat and add cream sauce with necessary salt. Onion may be cooked in a small quantity of salted water and oil omitted.
Add stewed celery for Celery and Tomato Chowder.
Simmer onion in oil, add water, potato and oyster plant, with salt; cook; add hot milk and more salt if necessary. Pour over split or whole crackers in tureen.
Leave out potato and use more oyster plant and onion.
1 part cooked celery and 2 parts string beans with rich milk, thickened a trifle. Salt.
Equal parts celery and corn. Cook onion and celery in butter (or salted water only), add water, then milk and cream, corn and parsley. Heat. Serve.
Slice hard boiled eggs, mix all ingredients, heat and serve.
A little canned okra when convenient.
The term “purée,” as used in this connection, means athick soupof ingredients rubbed through a fine colander. Thicker purées of cooked nuts, fruits, legumes or vegetables are served as true meat dishes, entrées, side dishes or relishes, according to their nature.
Very nourishing and digestible for invalids.
Rub 2 tablespns. of almond butter smooth with 1–1⅓ cup of water. Just boil up over the fire (or cook in double boiler till thick), add salt, serve. The proportion of water may be varied.
Cook peas, raw nut butter, bay leaf, celery tops and onion all together in salted water, rub through colander, turn on to butter and flour which have been heated together (or the butter and flour may be rubbed together and stirred into the purée), add necessary water, salt, sage and the teaspoon of fresh grated onion; simmer for 5 m. Serve with strips of bread, or finger croutons. The teaspoon of onion at the last is very important.
Boil potatoes cut in small pieces, sliced onion, stalks of celery and a sprig of parsley in plenty of salted water till potatoes are tender. Rub through colander, reheat, thicken just enough to hold the ingredients together, turn over whipped cream in the tureen and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Raw nut butter gives a fine flavor to this purée, cook it with the potatoes and use less or no cream.
Wash sago and cook with bay leaf, celery, parsley and onion in the water until clear; add hot milk, rub through colander, add salt and keep hot. Just before serving, beat together the yolk of the egg and the cream, stir several spoonfuls of hot soup into the mixture, turn all into the soup, stir well, but do not boil, add chopped parsley, serve at once.
This is the list of soups, made from left-overs, for which people most often ask our recipes.
They are from a small institution, with a family of from twenty-five to thirty members.
The cream is usually a little from the top of the can, but it gives the finishing touch.
The ingredients are usually heated together and put through the colander.
No. 1—Seashore chowder with fine trumese and nutmese, and onion and tomato stew.
No. 2—Nut and tomato bisque, with remains of above, put through colander.
No. 3—Asparagus on toast put through colander; milk, consommé, a trifle of tomato,—oyster flavor.
No. 4—Consommé, strainings from consommé, chick peas, trumese and gravy from trumese pie.
No. 5—Cream of asparagus soup, dry Lima beans and dried corn succotash, consommé, baked beans, green peas, milk and cream.
No. 6—Baked beans, Lima beans, cream of peas soup, milk.
No. 7—Strainings from consommé, put through colander, thin cream, tomato.
No 8—Left-overs from above, string beans, lentils, milk; thickened a little.
No. 9—Consommé of nut butter instead of stock, lentils, water, cream.
No. 10—Left-over from above, tomato, creamed onions.
No. 11—Consommé, spinach water, carrots, onions, garlic, tomato, chopped parsley.
No. 12—Left-over from above, baked beans, skimmed milk.
No. 13—Carrot water, onions, garlic, tomato, browned flour,beans, bay leaf. This tasted like beans with tomato sauce.
No. 14—Corn chowder, peas and tomato soup, pilau, milk and water.
No. 15—Baked beans, string beans, milk and cream.
No. 16—Cream of peas soup, lentil, spinach water, tomato, a little consommé.
Served with nuts, nut wafers or popped corn, are very refreshing often, for luncheon or supper.
And when something must be served in the evening, those not too tart, may be served with cocoanut crisps, pastry in fancy shapes, cookies or sponge cakes and nuts.
Fruit soups are served hot, in cups, and cold or slightly frozen, in glasses.
Sea moss, sago or tapioca (⅓ to ½ cup sago and ¼ to ⅓ cup tapioca to each 3 pts. of soup) make the most suitable foundations for them.
Honey instead of cane sugar may be used to sweeten.
The white of egg beaten, sweetened a trifle and flavored delicately with rose, lemon or orange may be put on to each cup in roses with a pastry tube or dropped on by teaspoonfuls.
Whipped cream may be used with some.
Berries, pieces of orange or slices of banana are sometimes served in the soup.
Odds and ends of sauces can be utilized, and in the summer, all sorts of fresh fruits.
Thin slices of Brazil nuts, crisp toasted almonds, English walnuts, pecans or hickory nuts are suitable accompaniments.
Put sago or tapioca into the inner cup of a double boiler with 1 cup of warm water. Soak sago 1 hr., tapioca 10 m. to 2 hrs., according to the kind. When soaked, pour 1 cup of boiling water over, add a little salt and cook until transparent. Add strawberry, pineapple and lemon juice, and sugar to make delicately sweet. Heat to just below the boiling point and serve at once, or cool.
Small pieces of pineapple make a pleasant addition.
Cherry or currant juice may be used in place of the strawberry.
If too thick, a little water or juice may be added.
Other suitable fruit juices may be substituted for the ones given: with those of strong and positive flavor a larger proportion of water may be used. Of course, with some tart juices, no lemon juice would be required.
¼ cup tapioca, 3 cups water, 1 pt. juice from dark red canned or stewed cherries. Flavor with oil of lemon or orange rind if desired.
May add some of the cherries just before serving.
Stir moss into cold fruit juice, heat in double boiler 25–30 m., stirring often; add lemon and orange juice and sugar, stir till sugar is dissolved. Serve warm or cold.
Soak sago in 1 cup warm water, add the quart of water boiling.with salt, and cook until sago is transparent. Add other ingredients, heat, serve.
Dried peaches, apricots or apples may be used sometimes. Grape, currant or cranberry are suitable juices.
Stew raisins, currants and citron together, add other ingredients, heat, serve.
Excellent without cream.
Stew 1 tablespn. raisins cut fine, in 1 cup of water ½ to 1 hour. Add 2 teaspns. almond butter stirred smooth with 2 tablespns. of water, a trifle of salt and a little sugar if desired or allowed.
Steep grated cocoanut in rich blueberry juice in a not too hot place for 20 m. Strain. Add sugar as required and a little lemon juice if necessary, with or without dairy cream. Serve cold with sponge cake or cookies. Rich cocoanut milk may be used instead of grated cocoanut.
1 cup seeded raisins; stew till tender. Drain and add to the liquid, water to make 1½ cup, 1½ cup strained tomato, salt, 4 tablespns. cream with 2 teaspns. sugar.
Of all the accompaniments to soups, croutons (crusts of bread) are perhaps the most desirable as well as most practical. To make them, cut slices of bread, not too fresh, into any desired shapes,dry, slowly at first, in a warm oven, then gradually increase the heat until they are of a delicate cream color, for such soups as bean, Swiss lentil or bouillon; but for cream soups, dry to crispness without browning.
A favorite shape is made by cutting rather thin loaves of bread into half inch slices, laying 3 or 4 together and cutting them diagonally across the narrow way of the slice. This gives dainty strips, convenient and attractive. The most common way is to cut slices straight across each way, leaving the bread in dice.
Croutons, however, are not suitable for very delicate flavored soups, such as cream of corn or cream of rice. For these, there is nothing equal to dainty cream or nut-shortened sticks, or little soup crackers.
Cook some of the small Italian pastes (you can be sure that they are Italian only by buying them of the Italian dealer himself), vermicelli, soprafini, ditalini, acini di pepe, or others, in boiling salted water until tender (from 10 to 15 m.), drain and add to suitable soups in the proportion of one ounce to ¾–1 qt. of soup.
Add a few kernels of popped corn to each plateful of corn soup.
Roll lettuce leaves in tight rolls and cut off in slender rings; pick up with the fingers and drop into hot soup; or cut lettuce with vegetable cutter, round or in any not too fine shapes and scatter into plates of soup as served.
Cut left-overs of pie crust into fancy shapes. Bake and drop into each plate of soup in serving. They must not stand in the soup long or they will dissolve.
Coat ¾ in. dice of bread with beaten egg. Bake just before serving. Serve a few in each dish of soup, or throw into tureen just before sending to table. May roll cubes in finely-chopped onion or parsley.
Heat oil in frying pan until hot, not brown. Add half the flour and rub to a paste, then add boiling water gradually, stirring until smooth.Stir in remainder of flour dry.
When the sauce is smooth and creamy and well cooked, remove from the fire, cool a little, and stir in celery, parsley and salt. The mixture will be very stiff.
Stand in cool place until perfectly cold, then shape into balls 1¼ to 1½ in. in diameter, or cones 1½ in. at the base, or cubes of 1¼ in., or sticks 3½ to 4 in. in length by ¾ of an inch in diameter. Roll in fine zwieback or cracker crumbs, then in beaten egg (add salt and a tablespoon of water to each egg), then in crumbs again.
Place on oiled tins a short distance apart, and set in cool place till 15 m. before serving, then put into a quick oven and bake until a delicate brown and cracked a little. Serve immediately.
If baked too long or too slowly, they will not keep their shape.
This makes 12 to 14 balls. ½ a beaten egg may be added when the celery is, but the balls are more creamy without it.
The balls may be made the day before required, kept in the ice box and baked at serving time.
Variation No. 1. Use 2 tablespns. of small pieces of hickory or other nut meats instead of the celery.
Variation No. 2. Use 2 tablespns. of black walnut meal (made by rubbing meats through a fine colander with a potato masher), and a little onion.
Variation No. 3. Use ¼ to ⅜ teaspn. grated lemon rind, instead of other flavorings.
Variation No. 4. Use chopped trumese, with sage and onion in place of the celery.
The savory balls are used with the plainer soups, and vice versa; or if both soups and balls are highly seasoned, use contrasting flavors; for instance, the balls with lemon rind in Nut French soup.
The egg balls should be used with care as they destroy the flavor of many soups. They, poached eggs, and hard-boiled yolks of eggs are especially suitable for some cream soups.
Heat water and oil to boiling, stir flour in dry, stirring and beating well with batter whip. When nearly cold, add eggs, one at a time, mixing well, until all are in. Beat for 5 m., stand in ice box for from 1 to 12 or more hours. Drop small quantities from point of spoon into boiling soup, or bake or boil in tiny balls, flattened.
Excellent baked, but unusually fine boiled, so delightfully free from stickiness or doughiness.
Rub 4 poached yolks of eggs to a paste. Beat with salt and the white of 1 raw egg. Form into balls ¾ to 1 in. in diameter. Roll in browned flour No. 1, bake just before serving. May beat white of egg first.
The raw yolk is sometimes used in place of the white. The balls may be boiled for 5 m. in the soup, instead of being baked.
Beat together 4 eggs, ½ cup thin cream, ½ teaspn. salt. Pour into oiled tin, place in pan of water; bake slowly until firm. Turn from molds at once.
When paste is to be cut into fancy shapes with vegetable cuttersit should not be over ¼ in. deep in the pans; but if for dice, it may be any depth.
This quantity is sufficient for 6 qts. of soup.
I often tint parts of paste with vegetable or fruit colors, spinach green, parsley, carrots or cranberries.
The left-overs from cutting may be chopped for another soup or a roast.
Use 1½ tablespn. of cream for 1 egg.
Royal may be flavored with onion juice. A little very fine chopped parsley may be added to it before baking.
Consommé is sometimes used in place of cream.
4 yolks of eggs and 1 white may be used instead of 4 whole eggs with the same quantity of liquid, and rich milk will do instead of cream, but the paste will not be as tender.
Break eggs into cup (2 for each quart of soup). Leave whole and turn slowly into rapidly boiling soup, beating briskly with fork or wire batter whip, until egg is in white and yellow shreds. Boil up well and serve soup at once. Or, beat eggs and let them stand until the froth subsides, then add to the soup in the same way.
Blend flour and water, add to boiling soup, boil up well.
Turn some of the hot soup slowly on to the beaten yolks, stirring, add them to the soup, do not boil, serve at once.
Whipped cream may be added to potato soup just before serving.
Soak rice in water for half an hour, add salt and oil, stir well and steam without stirring, ¾ to 1 hour. Press into small oiledmolds. Set in a pan of hot water covered, for 10 m. Put one in the center of each plate of soup, with or without a small leaf of parsley on top. Rice may be boiled.
Cut bread or universal dough into small rounds or make into very small balls; let rise and steam 20 m. or boil 10 to 15 m. in rich soup just before serving, or boil in water and add to soup.
I have had equally good success with all three of the following combinations:—
Beat eggs a little with salt, add water if used, and flour for stiff dough. Knead on floured board until dry but not flakey.
Then cut into three or four pieces and knead each piece, without more flour, until very smooth. Roll each piece as thin and as large as possible, some say to the thickness of a fifty cent piece, hang on clothes bars, away from the fire, turning often until dry but not brittle.
Roll up without flour and cut into fine slices from the end; or fold in 1½ in. accordion pleats and cut fine, or cut into strips of any desired width and cut these into narrow match-like pieces; or cut into rounds or fancy shapes with vegetable cutters. If cut in the first two ways, shake out upon a cloth or board and dry ½ to 1 hour.
Add noodles to boiling consommé and boil rapidly, stirring occasionally with a fork, for 10 to 20 m., or until tender.
Serve soup at once or noodles will become pasty.
Noodles may be cooked in boiling salted water, drained and added to soup, or cooked for 5 m. in water and finished in soup, giving a clearer consommé.
Noodles may be cooked in Mother’s and Nut French soup, as well as in bouillon or consommé.
Noodles may be dried thoroughly and stored in jars or close-covered box, almost indefinitely; but will require a much longer cooking.
Beat 1 egg light, add 1 tablespn. milk and a pinch of salt; then beat in 3–4½ tablespns. flour.
Turn slowly in a slender stream into rapidly boiling soup, stirring constantly; boil up well and serve at once.
When the mixture is poured slowly from the point of a spoon, it will be in shreds, and when cooked will be firm enough to hold its shape, but not hard.
“Cooking is not drudgery—it is an art.... No one who stands by a hot stove ever cooks. That party only waits. The cook is always on thequi vive. In the exaltation and exhilerationof his artistic services, he forgets that the stove is hot.”—Dr. Harvey W. Wiley.
“Cooking is not drudgery—it is an art.... No one who stands by a hot stove ever cooks. That party only waits. The cook is always on thequi vive. In the exaltation and exhilerationof his artistic services, he forgets that the stove is hot.”
—Dr. Harvey W. Wiley.
“Entrées are the dishes served between any of the regular courses,” one writer says. Another, “Entrées—a conventional term for side dishes.” Entrées proper may or may not have a large proportion of strength giving elements; but in this book we are placing the foods richest in proteids under the head of “true meats.”
As many entrées make good breakfast, luncheon and supper dishes andvice versa, it seemed best to group these all together.
Egg for dipping croquettes should be slightly beaten with a pinch of salt and 1 teaspn. to 1 tablespn. of water to each egg.
The whites of eggs alone (beaten just enough to mix with the water), also yolks alone or crumbs without egg may be used.
Crumbs may be cracker, zwieback, dry bread or granella. Corn meal, flour, or a mixture of crumbs and flour are used for dipping. For vegetable and cereal croquettes, the nut meals are excellent.
Mix fine chopped onion and parsley with egg or crumbs sometimes for croquettes.
Full directions for shaping and baking are given with trumese croquettes.
Suitable croquettes or patties may be served on beds of pilau, or on plain boiled rice with gravy, or with macaroni in cream sauce, and some are used as garnishes or accompaniments for true meat dishes.
To be used with different additions.
1 teaspn. grated onion may be used when suitable and also 1 egg, but croquettes are more creamy without the egg.
Rub the butter and flour together, add boiling milk, stirring; boil, remove from fire, add whatever is to be used for croquettes, cool thoroughly, shape into cones or rolls, set in cold place until ready to use.
This quantity is sufficient for the equivalent of 2 cups of fine chopped meat.
Mix, shape, bake. These croquettes may be breaded only. They may be used as garnish for a timbale if shaped in cones or balls, or served with cream sauce as a separate course.
Do not cook celery. Mix all ingredients while potato is hot. Cool, shape, egg and crumb. Stand in cold place until ready to bake.
Add 2 or 3 tablespns. milk to 2 cups cold boiled rice. Heat in double boiler until softened; then add 1 tablespn. butter, 1 beaten egg and salt. Cream may be used instead of milk and butter. Cool, shape, roll in nut meal, bake. Serve as garnish for a ragout, or with stewed green peas, cream or lentil gravy, or maple syrup or jelly.
Cook 1 cup of rice in a quart of milk with a level teaspn. of salt, in a double boiler until rice is tender and milk absorbed. Add yolks of 4 eggs or 2 whole eggs, and 2–4 tablespns. sugar. Cool,shape, egg, crumb, bake. Serve with strawberry or fig sauce, or with quince, elderberry, or some not too tart jelly. May cook rice in half milk and half water, and if desired add a little butter. Sugar may be omitted.
Add 1 cup of fine cut or ground fresh figs to the preceding recipe, with less or no sugar: 1 teaspn. of vanilla also if desired, and serve with orange or cream sauce as dessert at luncheon.
Heat, do not brown, butter, add flour and stir smooth; pour milk in hot, when smooth, remove from fire, add salt and egg and enough bread crumbs to shape. Cool, shape into balls or rolls, bake. Serve as a garnish or as a separate dish with or without sauce. The mixture may be flavored with some of the sweet herbs or minced onion.
Mix all ingredients; sprinkle buttered shells or scallop dishes with crumbs, put a spoonful of the mixture in each and sprinkle tops of patties with crumbs. Bake in moderate oven on top grate 5–10 m., serve at once.
Patties may be served as a second course at dinner, or for a luncheon dish.
Forpulp, grind about three bunches of oyster plant through the medium cutter of a food chopper. Cook in a small amount of water until just tender, adding salt about 5 m. before removing from the fire.
Cut the top crust from gems baked in flat oblong, or round gem pans, and remove the soft inside part. Warm in oven. Have ready one cup hot cooked asparagus tips.
Sauce—
Prepare the sauce as usual, adding beaten egg last, heat without boiling, carefully stir in the asparagus tips, fill the crusts and serve. A few tips may be reserved and pressed into the sauce after crusts are filled, leaving the heads sticking up. Green peas or stringless beans may be substituted for asparagus. Patty pan pastry crusts may be used.
Remove soft inside crumbs (they will go into a roast) from gems. Fill with oyster plant in cream sauce, sprinkle with crumbs and chopped parsley. Heat in oven, serve with celery plain or fringed.
May use pastry crusts.
Grate or grind carrots; cook, salt, drain. Cut young tender string beans into small pieces and cook in salted water. Mix with nicely seasoned mashed potato, add grated onion, a trifle of crushed garlic if liked, chopped parsley, and salt if necessary; shape into oblong cakes, egg, crumb or dip into corn meal or flour. Pour a little melted butter over them in the pan and brown in a quick oven. Serve with cream sauce, at once.
The mixture may be enclosed in pastry crust as surprise biscuit.
Cook young, tender Fordhook or crook-neck squash in ½ in. slices. Dip in egg and flour or crumbs. Bake, covered at first.on well oiled griddle or in covered pan in rather hot oven 25–35 m. or until squash is tender. Serve as soon as done as an entrée or as a garnish.
May soak slices in ice water ½–1 hour; drain and wipe dry before dipping.
Slice cucumbers in thick slices across, or if small cut into halves lengthwise. Wipe dry with a towel if soaked in ice water. Dip in egg and crumbs or cracker dust. Bake covered in hot oven until tender, 20–30 m. Serve as luncheon dish or as garnish for a meat dish.
A little fine chopped onion may be sprinkled over before baking.
Make corn meal porridge just thick enough to mold, not stiff. Cook thoroughly and turn into bread tins or other molds which have been wet in cold water. When cold, slice, egg and crumb, or dip in flour (No. 1, browned, best). Brown in hot oven. Serve plain or with mushroom sauce or maple syrup for supper, breakfast or luncheon. In small round or square slices it may be used as a garnish for creamed vegetables or true meat dishes.
For variety, coarse chopped nuts may be stirred into the porridge before molding.
Porridge may be molded in small egg cups and finished the same as slices.
Put hot boiled rice (cooked in water or part milk) into square mold or brick shaped bread tin which has been wet in cold water, cover close and stand in cold place. Slice, dip in oil or melted butter and crumbs and bake in quick oven. Serve with green peas, mushroom or any desired sauce, or with jelly, honey or maple syrup.
Dip in egg and crumbs, or in French toast mixture when preferred.