Hongkong
Returning from Manila we stopped once more at "The City of Mist," Hongkong, and were entertained all over again. While some of the Chamber of Commerce party were motoring to a dance given in honor of the San Francisco delegates, a coolie was hit and nearly run over. Our host told the coolie to get out of the way, while assuring us that it would not have caused much trouble had he been severely injured. He said, "Labor is so cheap here, some coolies try to get hit to get something out of you, and if I had really run over him, I would have given him fifty cents, or so. You know there is a law that if a Chinese accepts any amount of money after being injured, he has no redress." He went on to tell a story about using Chinese women to retrieve instead of dogs in snipe shooting. If these coolie women happen to stand up and get a stray shot, a few cents is given them, and it is called "square." One of the husbands of these women retrievers needed money, so his wife stood up in order to get a lot of shots. She got seven shots and went away with her husband rejoicing upon receipt of five dollars.
It was like meeting someone from home when Mrs. H. W. Thomas and Mrs.Cudahy joined our party again.
Many of our party looked for the American flag at our consulate, and H.L. Judell said he could not buy one in all of British Hongkong.
The feeling against the Germans in Hongkong, many of our party decided, must be very strong, as we saw cartoons showing a fierce-looking person killing everyone, and the same person in another pose, dressed as a traveling salesman, together with the warning, "Remember they are one and the same." We also noted sentiment against the Japanese in China, for instance, a Chinese gentleman told a group of our party that he and many of his countrymen taught their children that someday they would fight the Japanese. We were told that if a Chinese child is given a piece of candy and then told that the candy was made in Japan, the child refuses to eat it. This just typifies the attitude we found in China towards the Japanese. But as Dr. Kasper Pischel said at one of our evening meetings, "The spirit of China is not dead but is very much alive in Canton. Where the guidebooks discussed the narrow streets, to small even for rickshaws, I found twenty miles of broad streets. Where I anticipated hovels, a twelve-story skyscraper was seen, and it is my belief that unscrupulous outsiders are trying to keep the old political power in Peking."
Canton
Leaving Hongkong, we passed the typhoon shelter on the bay with its hundreds of floating homes. Next we noted the numerous curved graves (evil spirits, we were told, would not attack curved lines) and that all the graves faced the rice fields and the water for good luck. It seems that once a year, the relatives come with a big feast, and after waiting two hours for the spirits to eat, the mourners "fall to" and devour it themselves. The sacred mountain that resembles an amah and child, where the expectant Chinese mothers come to pray for male babies, was seen in the distance, as was the inlet of the bay, which, according to legend, was the original location of the Garden of Eden. Some members of the party considered this region much more beautiful than the Inland Sea of Japan.
Many of the party could not understand what the tall buildings in all the small villages could be. The fluent-talking Chinese officials, sent to escort our party, informed us that they were the pawnshops, and the wealth of the villages is determined by the number of their pawnshops, it being quite an honorable business in China, and all the inhabitants put their winter clothes in pawn. If, when they redeem this clothing, an epidemic of disease occurs, no one seems to think it might be because the clothes of all are put together unfumigated.
We were discussing the odd names on the official program when we were told that besides meeting a Mr. Looking For, a Mr. Jack Rabbitt was to follow the first speaker at the coming luncheon. We heard all about Ho Fook, with his fourteen wives and fifty-six children, and how Wang Chong Hin had just made a million in Java, raising sugar cane; that fat worms were considered a great treat, as were portions of rats, cats and dogs, all of these questionable delicacies being on display in the wayside markets.
The Canton reception was by far the most spectacular the Chamber of Commerce party received in the Orient. After the gaily attired band (playing American airs) greeted us, we passed through a brilliantly decorated arch and drove past the business section of Canton to the Yamen of His Excellency, Chan Chuing Ming, the Governor of Kwangtung. Here a reception committee representing the Government of the Republic of China, at Canton, the Provincial Government of Kwangtung, the Canton Municipality, the General Chamber of Commerce at Canton and the American Association of South China gave us a never-to-be-forgotten welcome.
An elaborate Chinese tiffin (yes, we ate a la chop sticks) was served. Governor Chan Chuing Ming, in his opening address, spoke of South China's plan for trade expansion and the development of this vast section. He referred to America's policy of fair play and the "Open Door" in the Orient and said that South China was rapidly becoming a progressive democracy and that the delegation showed its interest in South China by its presence there.
Commissioner Francis Krull, in answering this speech, spoke of the "Heavenly Welcome." This reminded us that besides the bands, military escort, soldiers at salute throughout the streets, auto street sprinkler to keep down the dust in front of the procession, an aeroplane had soared over our heads dropping messages of greeting. Someone suggested that a book on Chinese etiquette should have been studied by all representatives, for, when Mayor Sun, the son of Dr. Sun Yat Sen, head of South China, gave one of the ladies of our party a choice morsel, fished out of the central platter with the spoon with which he as eating, she did not know that his is considered a special mark of favor and accepted it very reluctantly, thinking her host most forgetful.
After eating our fill of bird's nest soup, sharks' fins and bamboo cells, we were taken in motors to see the five-storied Pagoda, the City of the Dead, and the monument to the Chinese revolutionary heroes (donated by the Chinese all over the world). When we saw one huge slab donated by some Chinese in San Francisco, we did feel toward the intelligent, kindly people just as our cultured host and hostess put it, "Right at home with them."
The General Chamber of Commerce gave a dinner at the Asia Hotel to the businessmen of the party, while the Chinese ladies gave a twelve-course dinner on the top floor of one of their new skyscrapers. This is said to be the first time in Chinese history that the sheltered and seldom seen Chinese ladies of rank ever gave a dinner to any, traveling delegation. Their correctly spoken English, charming graciousness, and, in a few cases, rare beauty, would make any collection of American women look, to their laurels.
Another typically Chinese dinner was given for us where James H. Henry, an American living in Canton, made the best speech we had heard in the Orient. He laid stress upon the fact that we need China more than she needs the United States. As other nations are studying her people and her resources we are letting things drift. He said, "United States is pursuing the same stupid psychology that originally caused England to lose her trade in China to the painstaking, persistent Germans. There are few Americans that can name readily six Chinese cities. China favors America because she stands for Liberty, Fraternity, Equality and Fair Play, but that her favoring the United States is more negative than positive as the United States is doing nothing to cultivate her trade and her favor is more on account of what Americans stand for but have not done as yet. Americans had better get busy and do something positive to develop her trade as do the other nations. The French are importing Chinese to study in France and in order to get to know the French and like them. The Germans come and live among the Chinese to learn their ways and to secure their friendship. China is going forward."
Perhaps some would say several of our party should have heeded the warnings of the blind astrologers, so plentiful in China, or stopped joking when we received number thirteen for dinner cards, hat checks and auto drivers' checks, but, strange as it may seem, on the very day that we were joking about the prevalence of "number 13" we had a very narrow escape. At any rate the most beloved member of the party, Mrs. Carrie Schwabacker (affectionately known as "Mother McCree"), nearly lost her life. Harry Dana, Cleve T. Shaffer and the writer, were with her in the small motor boat, returning from an entertainment given at a Chinese banker's home on the Pearl River (we were sure they referred to a black pearl when they named it, as the water looked like ink) and the craft became stuck in the mud and the propeller was impeded. The big river steamer, which we were due to catch, waited twenty minutes for us and when we finally got alongside the steamer, the Chinese boatman tied us to it as it was starting, in spite of our protests. Naturally, the little boat was dragged underneath the large rapidly moving steamer. One of the boatmen was thrown overboard. By desperate efforts we were saved from capsizing and the little boat broke loose from the steamer bearing her down, so we did not catch up with the party until a day later.
If Neptune Day was a huge success, then "Sanguinetti's Night" was a triumph. The old "Frisco Restaurant" reappeared on board ship, cartoons were on the walls (cleverly drawn by Miss Marion Doolan), the floor was sawdust covered. Red ties, stockings and skirts were in demand. Mrs. Evan's brilliant scarf made one costume for the borrower, everyone looked unbelievably tough in the costumes appropriate for this Italian affair. Candles gave a dim light. There were samples of "Apache Dancing." Spaghetti and ravioli were enjoyed along with the red wine that flowed freely, while the orchestra played only Italian and "Jazz" pieces. Will anyone ever forget Mrs. Schwartz's wonderful rendition of the "Lost Italian girl?" Miss Schlessinger won the prize for being the best "Vamp."
In the smoking room and on deck, Mah Gongg, for awhile, vied with bridge, but the old standby (enlivened with prizes) proved more popular on the homeward trip. If noise was any indication, then the last few days, when the deck sport prizes were being played for, were hugely enjoyed by all. Capt. E. Salisbury, C. J. Okell, S. N. Haslett, Jr. and H. S. Dana were among the star players. Dr. Woolsey and J. F. Geise were also "fans."
Christmas will always be another happy memory. The carols, the marching around the ship of the choristers Christmas Eve, the services and the story of Christmas by Mrs. Barton gave a contrast of seriousness that made us appreciate the frivolities all the more. How cheery the dining room was with its garlands of red berries and huge Christmas tree, swaying with the motion of the ship, and what fun when jovial and popular Captain Nelson, as Santa Claus gave a present to all. How surprised and happy the Captain, the officers and Mr. Grady were when Warren Shannon presented them with the beautiful gifts purchased by our party. Everyone was coaxed to display their "parlor tricks." Warren Shannon gave his masterpiece "Tiger Fat," Reese Lewellyn sang, followed by Mrs. Schwabacker's charming rendition of "What Irishmen Mean by McCree," Dr. Thomas Hill recited cleverly, Mrs. Brandeis read the farewell poem she had written, Mrs. Brown sang beautifully. Will we ever see a Korean costume without thinking of Louis Mooser and the excellent resolutions of thanks he drew and how he regretted the loss of his first diary? If it was half as clever as the second diary we can well understand his feelings. The laughter, singing and dancing kept up until way past midnight. No wonder everyone seemed in the best of health and spirits after this wonderful tour.
Last Few Days of Trip
The women of the party, led by Mrs. Frank Panter, gave a vote of thanks for being permitted to be a part of such an important tour penetrating an area where 900,000,000 souls are living, and wrote a resolution to the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce to that effect. It was up to the women to send "the last word" from the party, as Ou Wee of Canton, said, "The women of America are the real dictators,' 'and since the days of Eve, every man knows that women must have the "last word." But after seeing the treatment of the Oriental women, all the party of the feminine gender, were doubly glad to be Americans and to be going home.
We all understand the meaning of the phrase, "The best part of going away is the coming back," and when we contemplated that the famous "Peace Ship" could only stand it for three days, we felt quite pleased with our three months' record of friendly relationship, not only with our associates on board ship, but also with all those of the Orient, on this, the First Commercial Relationship Tour that any Chamber of Commerce has ever attempted and successfully accomplished.
Mrs. R. S. Atkins Mr. D. K. GradyMrs. George Alexander Mrs. D. K. GradyMr. F. S. Ballinger Miss Elizabeth M. GrahamMrs. F. S. Ballinger Mr. S. M. Haslett. Jr.Mrs. Florence Barnard Mr. H. HastingsMrs. Louise Barton Dr. T. L. HillMiss Lucille Bell Mr. C. W. HinchcliffeMrs. M. S. Bercovich Mr. Frank HowlettMr. Fred W. Boole Mrs. Frank HowlettMrs. Fred W. Boole Miss Elizabeth HowlettMrs. Arthur Brandeis Mr. Frank Howlett, Jr.Mr. Henry S. Bridge Miss Flora HunterMrs. Henry S. Bridge Miss Alena HunterMiss Marjorie Bridge Mr. Louis JamesMiss Barbara Bridge Mrs. Louis JamesMr. Louis C. Brown Mr. Chas. H. JamesMrs. Louis C. Brown Mrs. Chas. H. JamesMr. Roy J. Chapman Miss Rosalie T. JamesMiss Jessie Craig Dr. M. J. JudellMr. J. Parker Currier Mr. H. L. JudellMrs. J. Parker Currier Sidney P. KahnMrs. A. M. Cudahy Miss R. KinslowMr. H. S. Dana Mr. Francis KruIlMrs. S. C. Denson Mrs. Francis KrullMrs. E. Dinkelspiel Mr. C. B. LastretoMiss Marian Doolan Mrs. C. B. LastretoMrs. Jas. P. Dunne Mrs. R. R. LivingstonMiss Louise Elliott Mr. D. L. LlewllynMr. A. I. Esberg Mr. Reese LlewllynMrs. A. I. Esberg Mr. A. B. LutherMiss Belle Espeset Mrs. A. B. LutherDr. C. W. Evans Mrs. Anna B. LutherMrs. C. W. Evans Mr. P. L LykinsMrs. Bruce Foulkes Mrs. P. L. LykensMr. M. A. Gale Mr. P. J. LyonMrs. M. A. Gale Mr. C. H. MattlageDr. Amelia Gates Mrs. C. H. MattlageMrs. Angeline Gee Mr. Byron MauzyMrs. J. F. Geise Mr. B. M. McCroryMr. Louis Glass Mr. Constant MeeseMiss Sally Glide Miss Charlotte Moore
Mr. Louis H. Mooser Mrs. S. L. SchwartzDr. A. W. Morton Miss G. A. ShafferMr. A. W. Morton, Jr. Mr. Cleve ShafferMiss Mary Moynihan Mr. Warren ShannonMr. Wm. Muir Mrs. Warren ShannonMr. A. T. Neff Miss Alma SimonMrs. A. T. Neff Mr. F. H. SpeichMiss Lucretia Neff Mrs. F. H. SpeichMr. C. J. Okell Mr. Wm. SymonMrs. C. J. Okell Mrs. Wm. SymonDr. F. E. Orella Miss May SlessingerMrs. F. E. Orella Mr. C. A. ThayerMr. Frank Panter Mrs. C. A. ThayerMrs. Frank Panter Mrs. H. W. ThomasDr. Kaspar Pischel Mr. Geo. VranizanMrs. Kaspar Pischel Mrs. Geo. VranizenMr. Geo. Russell Reed Mr. Edward C. WagnerMrs. Geo. Russell Reed Mrs. Edward C. WagnerMiss Frances Reed Mrs. M. S. WashburnMiss Margaret Rice Mr. Carl WesterfeldCaptain R. Robinson Mrs. J. D. WheelerMrs. L. Ross Mr. Fred J. WoodMr. Louis Rothenberg Mrs. Fred J. WoodMrs. Louis Rothenberg Dr. C. H. WoolseyMrs. Carrie Schwabacher Mr. Chas. YatesCapt. E. Salisbury Mrs. Violet YatesMr. S. L. Schwartz