Chapter 9

CAPITAL OF PILLAR, SAINTE-CROIX CHURCH

The baptistery (in the left angle of the church on entering) is closed off by a railing which may be perceived in the above view. It contains an interesting thirteenth century font, on which are carved a series of figures taking part in a baptismal procession (see p.134).

LECTERN, SAINTE-CROIX

STOUP, SAINTE-CROIX

Beside the railing of the baptistery is a fine wrought iron lectern, dating from the seventeenth century and reproduced in the opposite photograph.

Worthy of notice also is a small stone stoup, dating from the twelfth century, which stands at the entrance to the south aisle (photograph opposite).

On leaving Sainte-Croix, turn to the right into the Rue Sainte-Croix; then take the first street on the left. At the end of this is the Rue de la Bibliothèque, on the right of which is theentrance to a public garden left to the town by M. Garnier.Before entering it, take a few steps to the leftas far as the little river, le Durteint, which, flowing between houses, forms a picturesque sight.

Cross the garden, in the middle of which is the former residence of the donor, now transformed into a public library and museum. Passing alongside a monument to the memory of the sons of Provins killed in action,we leave the garden by the little entrance opening on to the Boulevard d'Aligre. This boulevard, constructed on the site of the ramparts, forms a pretty walk. On the other side of it, opposite the "Jardin Garnier," is the mineral water establishment. The ferruginous waters of Provins were discovered in 1646; they may be drunk or bathed in.

On taking the Boulevard d'Aligre to the left, we perceive, standing out on the right, the "Hôpital-Général."In order to reach it, cross the canal by the foot-bridge, and follow the path which leads to the foot of this building and to a gate giving access to the terraced gardens. Turn to the right in front of the gate, keeping to the wall; then take a steep path, half-way up which is the entrance door.Ring and ask permission to view the "hospital."

FONT, SAINTE-CROIX

(classed as historical monument)

CLOISTER, HÔPITAL-GÉNÉRAL

We must climb a double staircase to reach the upper terrace where is the hospital proper.

The beautiful view of the whole town thus obtained is alone well worth this visit.

The hospital was originally a convent of the "Cordelières," founded in 1237 by Thibaut-le-Chansonnier, Count of Champagne. Tradition relates that he decided to build a convent because of a vision which came to him one night in his palace in the upper town: he saw St. Catherine on the hill opposite tracing the outlines of a building with her sword.

The convent was several times destroyed by fire.

CLOISTER, HÔPITAL-GÉNÉRAL

Henry IV. made it his headquarters when he besieged Provins in 1592, and he narrowly escaped death by a cannon-ball, which killed several of his officers.

In 1748 Louis XV. turned the convent into a "Hôpital-Général." To-day it is a home for old people and orphan children, managed by nuns, who act as guides to tourists desirous of visiting the establishment.

The galleries of the cloisters, dating from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, are interesting as showing specimens of very fine timber-work. The foliage of the capitals of the pillars is also to be remarked (see opposite photograph).

MONUMENT OF THIBAUT'S HEART

In the old chapter-room some handsome vaulting is still to be seen.

In the centre of the chapel is a little stone monument, of the thirteenth century (view opposite), which contains the heart of Thibaut, the founder of the monastery; that of his wife, Isabel of France, daughter of St. Louis; and that of her son. It consists of a carved and gilded metal cover surmounting six panels, each one containing, under a canopy, a monk reading a book.

The visit ended,we retrace our steps to the Boulevard d'Aligre and follow it to the right, crossing the Durteint. The city wall begins at this point.

(historical monument)

ENTRANCE TO THE TURRET, THE TROU-AU-CHAT

The line of the ramparts climbs upwards. At the summit is a doorway pierced in a part of the wall which juts off from the principal line of ramparts. It is the "Porte Faneron" and formed part of the original wall which surrounded the upper town.

Under the Counts of Champagne the ramparts were considerably developed, and in the thirteenth century were made to include the lower town. The opening in the wall on the right of the above view leads to a thirteenth century tower. The exit is by the "Trou-au-chat," so called because it was formed during a siege by a "cat" (a form of catapult for throwing heavy stones). The photograph below shows the picturesque view obtained from the interior of the turret.

Take the climbing path amidst the trees towards the top of the hill.It is a pretty walk, and affords a good opportunity to judge of the solidity of the walls, which are dotted here and there with towers.The path ends at the Porte de Jouy, where we shall find the car which we left in the lower town, and which has followed the directions on p.132.

THE RAMPARTS SEEN FROM THE TROU-AU-CHAT

PORTE DE JOUY

LaPorte de Jouy(the Jouy Gate) reproduced opposite was constructed in the twelfth century and demolished in the eighteenth, as its keep threatened to fall. It comprised two gates, two portcullises and a drawbridge. A subterranean passage united the two sides; its entrance is still to be seen on the interior of the left hand portion.

BRÈCHE DES ANGLAIS

Continue the visit of the wallsby the outer "boulevard" which is accessible to motors. This part of the fortifications is being restored at present. The way leads past the "Brèche des Anglais" (the English Breach) (photograph opposite), by which the English are said to have effected an entrance in 1432. The great corner tower, the foremost on the photograph below, is the "Tour aux Engins"; it is 65 feet high and its walls are 8 feet thick.

THE RAMPARTS

PORTE SAINT-JEAN

We arrive at the handsome Porte Saint-Jean by which we re-enter Provins.

ThePorte Saint-Jeandefended the old Paris road. It was built in the twelfth century, strengthened in the thirteenth, and was surmounted by a keep which has since disappeared. A drawbridge, a portcullis, and a double door presented successive obstacles to assailants. The masonry of the walls is worthy of note, the stones being dressed in embossment, that is to say, instead of being flat, they are protruding. This arrangement gave a greater force of resistance.

The guard rooms on the ground floor of the two towers communicate with each other by means of a subterranean passage; those of the first floor communicate by means of a gallery.

Re-enter Provins by passing through the gateway and take the Rue Saint-Jean.

(historical monument)

GRANGE-AUX-DÎMES (TITHES)

At the end of the street on the left is the"Grange-aux-Dîmes" (view opposite). An old military building, rebuilt before 1176, it became in turn a market and then an inn. It was afterwards a store-house for the tithes of the harvest, and it is to this last use that it owes its present name.

MUSEUM IN THE GRANGE-AUX-DÎMES

To visit it, ask for the key from the guardian who lives opposite, in the house at the corner of the Rue Saint-Jean and the Rue Couverte.There is an archæologicalmuseum on the ground floor (photograph on p.138).

CRYPT OF THE GRANGE-AUX-DÎMES

We descend into the crypt, which resembles the ground floor in disposition (view opposite), by a stairway whose entrance is hidden by a sort of wooden trap-door. A great many of the houses in the upper town have somewhat similar basements or cellars, with subterranean passages giving access to the open country, for use in times of danger.

The upper hall, which is of no especial interest, is reached by an outer stair, visible on the right of the façade.

On leaving theGrange-aux-Dîmes,take on the right, at the end of the Rue Saint-Jean, the Rue Couverte leading to the picturesquePlace du Châtelseen on the photograph below. The old feudal well on the left, with its wrought-iron top, is 120 feet deep. Beside it is the Crois-aux-Changes, dating from the fourteenth century, on which the "edicts and ordonnances" were posted up.

Beyond the Place may be seen the "Cæsar's Tower."

PLACE DU CHÂTEL

THE HÔTEL DE LA COQUILLE AND THE RUINS OF ST.-THIBAUT

Turning to the left on the Place we reach in the north-west corner, the old"Maison-des-Petits Plaids" where the provost meted out justice. It may be seen in part in the background of the opposite photograph. The curious low roof covers an interesting vaulted passage. The house is built over fine thirteenth century cellars in which the poet and songster Pierre Dupont (1821-1870) composed his "Chanson de la Vigne" (song of the Vine), during a vine-dressers' festival.

In the centre of the above view is the old "Hôtel de la Coquille," which derives its name from the shell carved above its entrance.

The neighbouring ruins are those of the twelfth centuryChurch of Saint-Thibaut.Motorists are advised to send their car to wait for them in the lower part of the Rue Saint-Thibaut at the corner of the Rue Christophe-Opoix, whither they themselves will return after having visited the Cæsar's Tower and Saint-Quiriace.The beginning of the picturesque Rue Saint-Thibaut is to be seen in the photograph below.

Tourists should walk to the south-east corner of the Place and there take the Rue de l'Ormerie, then immediately on the right, the Rue Pierre-Lebrun.The house in which this writer lived is situated in a charming little square, opening off the street.

RUE SAINT-THIBAUT

CÆSAR'S TOWER AND ST.-QUIRIACE

The Rue Pierre-Lebrun makes a bend in order to rejoin the Rue Jean-Desmare's, along which turn to the right.From this spot there is a fine view of Cæsar's Tower and of the Church of Saint-Quiriace (see the above photograph). The ruined wall seen in the centre jutting off from the tower belongs to the original fortifications. That piece breaking off from the "Porte Faneron" (p.136) rejoined Cæsar's Tower.

Continue to descend, passing before the "Pinacle," the old palace of the mayors of Provins. It was there that Guillaume Pentecôte was murdered by the workmen of the town (see p.129). Further remains of the city wall are encountered, which descend the slope of the hill to the right before rising to the east in order to enclose the lower town.

THE EXECUTIONER'S HOUSE

The steep path skirting the wall is called the "Chemin du Bourreau" because the executioners of Provins lived here. Their house still exists and may be seen at the foot of the slope, on the wall. Its last inhabitant was Charlemagne Sanson, who, together with his brother the executioner of Paris, guillotined King Louis XVI. in 1793. The opposite photograph of the Executioner's House was taken from the foot of the hill.

Tourists after descending as far as the "Maison die Bourreau" should remount the same steep path, then gain Cæsar's Tower by the path leading to it.

(historical monument)

CÆSAR'S TOWER

This superb keep was built in the twelfth century on the site of a Roman fort. The lower battlemented portion was added in the fifteenth century by the English to serve for the installation of their artillery. The pyramidical roof was added in the sixteenth century. The entrance is on the left in the old city-wall, at the top of a little stone staircase. The guardian shows visitors the rooms, the prisons, and the bells which ring for the services in Saint-Quiriace. From the summit a splendid view is obtained.

CÆSAR'S TOWER SEEN FROM ST.-QUIRIACE

(historical monument)

ST.-QUIRIACE SEEN FROM CÆSAR'S TOWER

A pagan temple dedicated to the goddess Isis existed in early times on the site of this church. It gave place in the third century to a wooden chapel, which in its turn was succeeded by the present building, erected in 1160 by Count Henri-le-Libéral.

Saint-Quiriace, a converted Jew, who became Bishop of Jerusalem in the fourth century, indicated to Saint Helena, mother of the Emperor Constantine, the spot where the three crosses of Calvary had been hidden. He suffered martyrdom in 363, and the basilica which crowns the upper town was built to receive the saint's skull.

THE CHOIR OF ST.-QUIRIACE SEEN FROM THE TRANSEPT

THE AMBULATORY, ST.-QUIRIACE

The original tower which rose above the centre of the transept, was burned in the seventeenth century. It has been replaced by a vast zinc-covered cupola, which, while giving the church a quaint appearance, harmonises little with its style of architecture.

Saint-Quiriace is full of historical memories. King Philippe-Auguste here stood godfather to Count Thibaut-le-Grand (1201); Jeanne d'Arc and Charles VII. heard Mass in it (1429); and Louis XI., Francois I. and Louis XIV. came to take part in "Te Deum."

ENTRANCE-GATE, ST.-QUIRIACE

If the church had been finished it would be extremely large. Unfortunately, in the thirteenth century, the construction of the nave was interrupted at the second triforium, a fact which explains the very marked disproportion existing between the choir and the transept on one hand and the nave on the other.

The fabric of the choir is very imposing. It contains an elegant blind-storey gallery extending into the north and south transepts (view on p.143), and is surrounded by an ambulatory (view above), terminated at the east end by three square chapels.

The greater part of the church furnishings was destroyed at the Revolution; but the fine Louis XV. gate of the principal doorway still exists (view opposite), as does the wood-panelling at the end of the church on the left (photograph below).

WOOD-PANELLING, SAINT-QUIRIACE

HOUSE IN THE ROMAN STYLE

On leaving Saint-Quiriace, take on the right the Rue des Beaux-Arts leading into the Rue du Palais.

Take a few steps to the left inorder to glance at a house in theRoman style, dating from the tenth century (photograph opposite).The tourist will then retrace his steps in the direction of theCollegeinstalled in the ancient palace of the Counts of Champagne;then descend the Rue du Collège, in which, on the right, are the ruins ofSt. Peter's Church, built in the thirteenth century and destroyed during the Revolution.

At the head of the flight of steps leading to the lower town, beside St. Peter's, was the "Hôtel des Monnaies" (the Mint), which was founded by Charlemagne. It was there that the "sous Provinois," so well known in the Middle Ages, were struck (see p.129).

Descend St. Peter's steps, and the Rue des Petits-Lions, which lead to the Rue des Capucins.On entering the latter, one perceives the old "Hôtel de la Croix d'Or," dating from the thirteenth century (photograph below);whilst a little to the right, on the opposite side of the street, is the"Hôtel Vauluisant," also of the thirteenth century. Its front, pierced by four fine mullioned windows with trefoil tracery, may be seen in the photograph below and in that on p.146.

Retracing our steps we rejoin the Rue St. Thibaut by way of the Rue Christophe Opoix, a continuation of the Rue des Capucins. Here motors coming directly from the Place du Châtel by the Rue Saint-Thibaut may wait.

HÔTEL DE LA CROIX D'OR

WINDOWS OF THE HÔTEL VAULUISANT

HÔTEL VAULUISANT

Before leaving, take a few steps up the Rue Saint-Thibautto glance at the "Hôtel-Dieu," the former palace of the Countesses of Blois and of Champagne.

In the vestibule (view below), on the left is a Renaissance reredos in stone. The donatrice (the wife of a bailiff of Provins) is represented in the central panel kneeling to the Virgin.

The vaulted hall, which follows, is very large, and beneath is a crypt of the same dimensions.

This brief visit to Provins and its curiosities being over, regain the hotel for dinner and bed by taking the Rue du Val, the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville, and the Rue de la Cordonnerie. Turn to the right at Saint-Ayoul into the Rue Edmond-Nocard continued by the Rue Victor-Arnoul where stands the hotel.

VESTIBULE OF THE HÔTEL-DIEU

Next morning in leaving Provins make for the Place Saint-Ayoul, and turn to the right into the Rue Abailard which skirts the church. Here take the Rue Courloison on the left. After crossing the Courloison Bridge, turn to the left into D. 4, which climbs in zig-zags the slope of the hill to the north of Provins. We entered the town by this same road.

REREDOS HÔTEL-DIEU

During the morning we shall visit the field of operations of the Fifth French Army and arrive at Sézanne for lunch.

VISIT TO THE FIELD OF OPERATIONSOF THEFIFTH & NINTH FRENCH ARMIESFROMPROVINS TO CHÂLONS-SUR-MARNE

(80 km.)

(See map inserted between pp.116-117)

VOULTON CHURCH

At the top of the zig-zag hill at the exit of Provins is a fork in the road. Turn to the right; then take, on the left, the road not lined with trees(G. C. 71)going toVoulton(9 km.).

On the right of the road, in the village, is the church (historical monument) which dates from the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. The interior is worth a visit as the photographs opposite indicate. If the door of the church is locked, ask the "curé" for the key. (The "presbytère" (rectory) is the house with a little garden before it, lying to the left front of the church.)

When the battle of the Marne began on the morning of September 6 the 18th Corps was at Voulton and to the east of this village.

NAVE OF VOULTON CHURCH

After Voulton, cross throughRupéreux, whenAugersmay be seen inthe distance, with its much damagedCHURCH(photograph p.148). The heights which formed the principal German position shut in the horizon. The task of the left of the 18th French Corps was to push back the advance-guards of the Third German Corps between Voulton and Augers.

On the evening of the 6th, the French camped round Augers.

CAPITAL IN VOULTON CHURCH

Arriving in the village, pay a visit to the church, which is to the right of the road. Augers was bombarded in turn by the French and by the Germans, each believing the other to be in the village, whereas they were merely in the neighbourhood. The church suffered particularly, as may well be realised by passing through the breach in the wall shown in the photograph below. The interior presents a scene of desolation.

Returning to the road after visiting the church, turn to the right, then immediately afterwards to the left, and take the "Chêmin vicinal" leading to the main road from Courtacon to Sézanne (D. 8) in which turn to the right.

The tourist now finds himself on the principal German position during September 5 and 6. After a preparation by the artillery, the French troops left the shelter furnished by the undulations of the plateau, and attacked and carried the road on September 7. Following up the pursuit of the retreating Germans, they reached La Ferté-Gaucher on the same day, and crossed the Grand Morin, thus gaining more than 10 km.

2 km. after the cross-roads at Augers, the road leaves on its left the Village of Sancy.

Sancy was not bombarded, the fighting taking place some distance in advance of the locality; but its inhabitants were obliged to submit to the law of the conqueror during two days.

AUGURS CHURCH

The following is the account given by the "curé" of Sancy before the Enquiry Commission:—

"On Sunday, September 6, about 9 p.m., the Germans were carrying off the remaining bottles of wine from my cellar, and I was about to sit down to supper, when a non-commissioned officer announced to me and to my guests that we were to 'Hurry to the Place'. We were put into a sheep-fold to sleep. At 5 a.m. thirty of us were led as far as the barn at Perrelez (4 km. north of Sancy). We were given a little water and finally, to most of us, a small quantity of soup was doled out. The barn had been turned into a German ambulance. A doctor spoke a few words to the wounded who immediately loaded four rifles and two revolvers. A French hussar, wounded in the arm and a prisoner, said to me: 'Give me absolution, Sir; I am going to be shot. Afterwards it will be your turn.' I did as he wished, then unbuttoning my cassock, I placed myself against the wall between the mayor andmy parishioner Frederic Gillet. But two French mounted soldiers arriving at this instant saved our lives, for the Germans surrendered to them."

MONTCEAUX CHURCH AND FARM

Without entering Sancy, continue to follow D. 8 which leads toMontceaux. Turn to the left and go up the village as far as the church (23 km.).

Montceaux, on account of its dominating position, had been organised as a defensive position by the Germans. The French artillery bombarded the whole village vigorously and especially the large farm whose entrance is visible at the end of the street in the above photograph. The Germans had established a heavy battery there, directing its fire from the top of the church tower. The church therefore received numerous projectiles, whose effects may be seen in the photograph below, which represents the chapel in the apse. The right of the 18th French Corps attacked the village on September 6, on the south and on the west, and carried it after a violent combat which lasted from 4 p.m. until nightfall.

INTERIOR OF MONTCEAUX CHURCH

We retrace our steps and turn to the left intoD. 8in the direction of Courgivaux. On the right of the main road, the Germans, holding the heights where stands the hamlet ofLes Châtaigniers, offered a desperate resistance to the efforts of the Sixth Division of the Third French Corps commanded by General Pétain, afterwards Commander-in-Chief. On September 6 this division succeeded in taking the hamlet, but was not able to advance beyond it, in spite of the fact that the 18th Corps held Montceaux. On the following morning, the Germans counter-attacked unsuccessfully, and in the afternoon the French (whose 123rd Regiment had particularly distinguished itself at Montceaux) hurled their adversaries back on to the farther side of the Grand Morin.

D. 8becomesG. C. 46on entering the Department of the Marne.

Before arriving atCourgivaux, pass over a level-crossing, then turn to the right by the drinking-pond, and ascend the village, bearing to the left towards the cemetery (29 km.).The latter occupies a dominating position and played an important part in the actions engaged in by the Fifth Division, commanded by General Mangin, for the possession of Courgivaux.

FARM AT COURGIVAUX

The German advanced defences around Escardes (about 2½ km. along this road) were carried after a stiff fight in which the two colonels of the Ninth Brigade were wounded. The Germans fell back on the line formed by the cemetery of Courgivaux and the farm of Bel-Air visible in the photograph above, and about 300 yards west towards the village.

After a bombardment by "75's," the troops of the Third Corps, leaving the woods, crossed the open ground at a run, and after several fruitless attempts dislodged the Germans from the cemetery, then from the farm, and finally from the village. The French held these positions in spite of a counter-attack at night, and on the 7th the Germans were in retreat towards the north.

COURTYARD OF ESTERNAY CASTLE FARM

After having visited in the cemeterythe graves of several officers of the 39th, 74th and 129th Regiments, who fell here,we retrace our steps and turn to the right into theG. C. 46in the direction of Esternay. A long climb leads to Retourneloup whereG. C. 46rejoinsN. 34coming from La Ferté-Gaucher.

We are now entering the theatre of operations of the First French Corps.Retourneloupwas bombarded, as a German battery had been established there to hold the road to the Esternay hollow. This battery was hammered by the French artillery. The "curé" of Esternay, who had been made prisoner at the very beginning of the German occupation, was led to Retourneloup, and passed an anxious time during the battles of the 6th and 7th. Each time that the French attacked—and they attacked ten times during the day of the 6th, the "curé" was placed at the head of the German column which advanced to resist them. He was also roughly handled and given nothing to eat, besides being frequently threatened with being placed against a wall and shot. The Germans took him with them in the retreat and continued to put him in an exposed position in all rearguard actions. They finally set him at liberty about ten kilometres from Esternay.

ENTRANCE TO THE ESTERNAY CASTLE

A zig-zag descent leads down toEsternay, in the hollow. Go straight on without entering, and gain the opposite slope. After crossing the railway line, take the road on the left leading to the castle (36 km.).

ESTERNAY CASTLE

This last is preceded by a farm which still bears traces of the bombardment which it suffered (view p.150).

The castle, which belonged to Marshal Fabert, is now the property of the Marquis de la Roche-Lambert. The opposite view gives a good idea of its picturesqueness. It was occupied by a German staff, and its park defensively organised. The castle suffered less than the farm.

We retrace our steps over the 300 yards separating the entrance to the castle from N. 34, which we cross in order to take the opposite "Chêmin vicinal" leading down toChâtillon-sur-Morin. Pass over a level-crossing in order to enter the village, which was completely destroyed by the bombardment and by the fires lighted by the Germans before evacuation.

Turn to the left in the village toarrive at the little church (38½ km., view below), which by a curious chance alone remained untouched in the midst of ruins. The above view was taken from the church tower.

BURNT HOUSES AT CHÂTILLON

Châtillon formed the advanced position of the defences of Esternay. The troops of the First Division had the honour of being chosen to attack, and fierce was the fighting in the burning streets of the village. The 84th Infantry, many of whose officers and men are buried in the churchyard, gave a brilliant example of stubborn courage. On the evening of the 6th, Châtillon was in the hands of the French, who were, however, for that day unable to advance further towards Esternay, being held up by the defence works on N. 34 (see panorama on p.152).

CHÂTILLON CHURCH

Return to the main road from Esternay to Sézanne(N. 34), stopping at the last houses of Châtillon, the spot from whence the above photograph wastaken. The position which the French troops in possession of Châtillon had to carry was formed by the plateau seen on the horizon, along which passes D. 8 at the foot of Esternay castle.

PANORAMA OF THE ESTERNAY POSITIONSEsternay Castle

PANORAMA OF THE ESTERNAY POSITIONS

This frontal attack presented many difficulties, for even if the French arrived as far as the railway line which runs along the bottom of the valley, and were able to take cover under the embankment, they would be mown down when they attempted to scale the bare slopes. The woods which appear on the right in the above view afforded shelter to the troops up to the main road, but when they attempted to advance into the open they were met by a murderous fire. Being unable to force the frontal defences, the commandant of the First Corps ordered the Second Division to make a considerable detour to the east, under cover of the woods, in order to take the positions on Esternay Plateau in the flank. On the evening of the 6th, a first attack failed, but next morning the Second Division carried the position which covered the German flank, and combining its efforts with those of the First Division on the front, entered Esternay about 10 o'clock in the morning.

PANORAMA OF THE CHÂTILLON POSITIONSChâtillon ChurchSpot from whence the above panorama was takenRailway line

PANORAMA OF THE CHÂTILLON POSITIONS

Once more on theN. 34,turn to the right. The slope served as a protection for the Germans, who dug many individual shelters there. One ofthese may be seen in the foreground of the preceding photograph. We begin to realise the difficulties which the French had to surmount when we remember that after the battle, on the front of a single battalion, 11 officers and 4 non-commissioned officers lay dead, killed while leading their men.

COMMON GRAVE AT ESTERNAY

Leaving behind, on the left, the park which adjoins the road, we perceive on the right the great common grave of Esternay (view above), where lie buried the heroes of the 73rd who fell during the attack. The turning movement mentioned on page152led across the road at about 3 km. from this spot, at the other extremity of the wood. The village of La Noue, to the north of the road, was carried, and the Second Division then turned back towards Esternay.

(Sézanne is only 10 km. from this point byN. 34,but the tour indicated hereafter, which leads across part of the line where the direct attack on this town was broken, makes a circuit of 34 km. The remainder of the line will be explored to-morrow.)

We retrace our steps. A little wood fringes the road on the right. The German machine-guns were installed there, and cut down the French who attempted to leave their shelter on the other side of the road. About 100 yards further on the wood gives place to a field, on the edge of which, at about 20 yards from the road, in the midst of the trees, is the grave of an unknown French soldier—a pathetic sight. A little further on, in the field, are to be seen the isolated graves of two German officers, one of them of the family of the Chief of the General Staff, Von Moltke (view below). Between these graves and the border of the castle park many Germans lie buried. The fighting was very violent here in the trenches which the enemy had dug at right angles to the road. Outflanked on the north by the turning movement we have spoken of, the castle and the farm, as well as the park, were carried at the point of the bayonet. From this moment, Esternay, situated in the hollow, could offer no serious resistance, and the French entered it without difficulty.

Re-cross the railway line and take the first road on the right, leading into Esternay and to the Place de l'Église (48 km.).The church was transformed into an ambulance station by the Germans.

The following evidence given by the deputy-mayor and other witnesses before the Official Enquiry Commission recalls painful incidents of the occupation by the enemy.

GRAVES OF GERMAN OFFICERS

"On September 6 the Germans pillaged nine-tenths of the houses in the town. This pillage was organised, objects of all kinds, linen and other belongings, being placed on carts."

Another witness declared: "About 3 o'clock in the afternoon, thirty-five or forty Germans came out of the church shouting, and leading with them M. Laurenceau, aged 52 years. The latter on arriving at the road madea movement as if to escape and was immediately felled to the ground. Then, although he lay quite still, he received three bullets."

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