Chapter 37

INSERT 5PATTERNS 17⋅27⋅17. Fur Lined Cape27. Rain CoatThis pattern plate should remain permanently in bookso that tracings on tissue paper can be made from it as required.“Goodness!”“Oh, my!” thought Mary Frances.“Goodness!” exclaimed Aunt Maria as they went into the room. “Although I oughtn’t to say it—what an untidy room! My dear child, my dear child, everything ought to be put in place just as soon as you’ve used it. It never pays to lay anything down out of place. Here are needles and pins, scissors and needle-book, emery bag, and what not—tumbled over the table, and the work basket on its side! You’ll learn better, though, child.”There was a strange expression on the little girl’s face.“It’s rude, Mary Frances, to smile when you’re in fault,” continued the old lady.“Excuse me, Aunt Maria,” said Mary Frances. “I couldn’t help it.”“Well, I expect it’s because you’re so glad to see me,” said Aunt Maria, leaning back in her chair and rocking.Work basket on its side“OhAuntMaria!”“Never mind, we’ll look at your work. Very creditable, very creditable indeed, child! Such excellent stitches,” examining the little samplers, and finally the bath robe and kimono. “You certainly do take after me. To think that so spoiled a child should develop into such an excellent character! ‘Blood will tell!’ I’ve often said it—‘Blood will tell!’ What pretty material! By the way, child, where do you get the goods—if this is a secret?”“Oh, Aunt Maria, Mother sent me this little trunk full of these pretty things; and this lovely, lovely doll, Mary Marie, to amuse myself with. She said she was so sorry not to be able to show me how to sew, and hopes to, when she comes home. Dear Mother! Won’t she be surprised?”“Indeed she will,” said the old lady, examining the contents of the trunk. “But,” she sniffed, “I am compelled to say less beautiful goods would have answered the purpose. When I was a little girl—well, never mind! Have you learned to make button-holes?”“I can make the stitch, I think,” answered Mary Frances, meekly.“Indeed she will,”“Well, I’ll teach you, child,” said Aunt Maria, getting a piece of muslin ready. “Now, let us begin to learn how to make33.—Button-holesUse Button-hole ScissorsAll button-holes should be worked in a double fold of cloth. Use for practice, a piece of muslin six inches long and four inches wide. Fold through the center. Turn in and baste along edges.(A)To CutWith button-hole scissors, cut into the goods one quarter of an inch from folded edge. Cut along a thread of the goods to make it straight. Make opening a little longer than the button is broad. For button-hole, use No. 40 cotton, No. 8 needle. Barring and overcasting are often done with a finer thread than that used for the button-holing.(B)To Bar1. Make a small knot in thread.2. Put the goods over first finger, left hand—folded edge toward you.3. At the end of button-hole farthest from folded edge of cloth, insert needle between the double cloth, bringing it out at A. (See picture.)4. Point needle down at B; bring it out at A.5. Point needle down at C; bring it out at D. Do this twice.6. Point needle down at B; bring it out at A.(C)OvercastingOvercast the edge on each side and end of the button-hole, catching the long “barring” threads.To BarOvercasting(D)Button-hole StitchButton-holestitch1. With goods over forefinger of left hand, at end of button-hole farthest from the folded edge of the cloth, insert needle between the muslin; pull through, leaving a small end of thread between muslin.2. At same corner of button-hole, bring needle half way through. Taking both threads hanging from eye of needle between thumb and finger of right hand, pass the threadunderthe point of the needle, from right to left. Pull needle through, drawing the thread firmly near the button-hole. This forms the purl, which is well adapted to the constant wear upon the button-hole.3. Repeat until needle is at first stitch taken.(E)FinishingFinished button-hole1. Make barring stitches over the first barring stitches taken.2. Put needle through these barring stitches, forming the blanket or loop stitch,—make several loop stitches and bring needle to wrong side.3. Fasten thread by several small stitches.NOTE.—If thread is too short to finish button-holing, fasten it on wrong side of material. Enter the new thread on wrong side and bring thread through last button-hole purl, or twisted edge.Aunt Maria gave Mary Frances these directions very slowly, making the little girl do each step as she explained.“My,that’s thehardestthing yet”“No, not that way, child,” she would say. “Sit up straight; place both feet firmly on the floor; hold your sewing high; do not stoop over. That is the correct position while sewing. Throw the thread more carefully. No, not so long a thread—it will tangle. Patience—child!”“My,” exclaimed Mary Frances, “that’s the hardest thing I’ve done yet. Am I very trying to teach?”“Well,” said the old lady, “you might be more so—but that’s a real respectable button-hole. But really, child, I must again repeat my lesson to you about neatness. Never leave your sewing room as I found it to-day.”“There’s Grandma!” exclaimed Mary Frances, looking out the window. “Come, Aunt Maria, let’s go down.”“Is my necktie straight?” asked the old lady of Mary Frances, taking her hand.“Is my necktie straight?”“She isan oldGrunt!”“My,” said Mary Frances, returning to the sewing room, “aren’t they the dear old dears, talking together! A cup of tea and those two old ladies—there’s nothing under the sun they can’t think of—from Noah-and-the-ark to Forever-more! I wonder if I can finish Mary Marie’s pinafore. I’m going to make Angie a lot of clothes like Mary Marie’s.”“Will the Old Grunt be back?” Scissors Shears was looking up at Mary Frances.“Who?” asked Mary Frances.“The Old Grunt,” said Scissors Shears, “fussin’ and gruntin’ over everything. We looked all right. She scared us—if we hadn’t dropped where we were she might have found out about us—and if she’d found out about us—we’d been Never-Nevers.”“You must not call names,” said Mary Frances, gravely.“She is an Old Grunt! So there! It was my work to teach you to make button-holes, and I so wanted to do it!” burst out Button-hole Scissors, excitedly.He spread his funny little legs apart and looked up at Mary Frances most forlornly.“Rip-her-up-the-back! Butty,” growled Scissors Shears.“It was my work to teach you!”“Be quiet!” exclaimed Mary Frances, “I’m ashamed of you both! I know it’s an awful disappointment to you, Button-hole Scissors, but, never mind, you shall help me sometime.”“Magic and Mystery, we must—”“Yes,” said Fairy Lady, smiling, “we must finish the pinafore. Here isPattern 8.—Doll’s PinaforeSee Insert IITo cut out—Thepinafore isnot joinedunder arms1. Fold goods lengthwise. Place edge of pattern having two rings (oo) on this fold. Pin in place. Cut out.2. Indicate place for straps and pocket by pricking with a pin, through pattern and material. Remove pattern.Run a red basting thread through the pinholes.3. Cut four straps, and the pocket.To make—Note.—The pinafore is not joined under the arms; therefore,1. Make a narrow hem along the sides of the front and back.2. Make a three-quarter inch hem along the bottom of pinafore.3. Make a tiny clip in the corners of the neck opening.Turn down one-quarter inch along neck on right side.4. Baste flat against this, one-half inch wide white linen tape. In turning corners, turn the tape completely over.5. Ends of sleeves, sides of sleeves, and sides and bottom of pinafore finished in same way.Turn tape completely overPocketPin inplace1. Make a quarter-inch hem at top of pocket.2. Turn in edges one-eighth inch. Baste.3. Pin in place shown on pattern. Hem, or stitch.Straps1. Turn in edges of straps one-eighth inch all around.2. Baste two straps together, wrong sides facing each other.3. Overhand, or stitch together.4. Pin in place as shown by red basting thread, and sew in place through a button.Or, a button may be sewed to the pinafore, and a button-hole worked in each end of the straps.(If this is done, hem a small piece of goods on the wrong side of pinafore under the places for the buttons, so that the pulling of the button will not tear the goods.)Sew strap in place through a button“And we’ll all help,—if you please.”“Thank you, dear Thimble People,” said Mary Frances, spreading the pretty gingham on the sewing table. “Work very quickly—I haven’t many minutes. I’m so tired, anyhow,” and she leaned back in her rocking chair.“Ithinkyou may”“Mary Frances, Mary Frances, Mary Frances, dear!” called Grandma’s voice.“Oh,” thought Mary Frances, “I’ve been asleep. It’s twilight, nearly.”“Yes, Grandma,” she called. “I’ll come right down.” And she looked on the table expecting to see the gingham spread out, but it was nowhere to be seen.“Look at Mary Marie,” whispered Sewing Bird.There sat the proud dolly with the gingham pinafore all made and buttoned in place.“How,—how?” stammered Mary Frances.“We took her overTo Thimble Land;Over to ourFairyland,”explained Sewing Bird.“Can I go there some day?” asked Mary Frances.“I think you may,But not to-day;Perhaps you’ll goAnother day!”sang Sewing Bird.There sat the proud dolly“Oh, thank you, you dear!” said Mary Frances.“Come, Mary Frances,” again called Grandma. “Why, dear child,” she said, kissing the little girl, “it’s nearly six o’clock, and we old ladies have been so busy living in the past that we almost forgot the present—that’s you.”I’m learning to sew,” whisperedMary Frances

INSERT 5PATTERNS 17⋅27⋅17. Fur Lined Cape27. Rain Coat

This pattern plate should remain permanently in bookso that tracings on tissue paper can be made from it as required.

“Goodness!”

“Oh, my!” thought Mary Frances.

“Goodness!” exclaimed Aunt Maria as they went into the room. “Although I oughtn’t to say it—what an untidy room! My dear child, my dear child, everything ought to be put in place just as soon as you’ve used it. It never pays to lay anything down out of place. Here are needles and pins, scissors and needle-book, emery bag, and what not—tumbled over the table, and the work basket on its side! You’ll learn better, though, child.”

There was a strange expression on the little girl’s face.

“It’s rude, Mary Frances, to smile when you’re in fault,” continued the old lady.

“Excuse me, Aunt Maria,” said Mary Frances. “I couldn’t help it.”

“Well, I expect it’s because you’re so glad to see me,” said Aunt Maria, leaning back in her chair and rocking.

Work basket on its side

“OhAuntMaria!”

“Never mind, we’ll look at your work. Very creditable, very creditable indeed, child! Such excellent stitches,” examining the little samplers, and finally the bath robe and kimono. “You certainly do take after me. To think that so spoiled a child should develop into such an excellent character! ‘Blood will tell!’ I’ve often said it—‘Blood will tell!’ What pretty material! By the way, child, where do you get the goods—if this is a secret?”

“Oh, Aunt Maria, Mother sent me this little trunk full of these pretty things; and this lovely, lovely doll, Mary Marie, to amuse myself with. She said she was so sorry not to be able to show me how to sew, and hopes to, when she comes home. Dear Mother! Won’t she be surprised?”

“Indeed she will,” said the old lady, examining the contents of the trunk. “But,” she sniffed, “I am compelled to say less beautiful goods would have answered the purpose. When I was a little girl—well, never mind! Have you learned to make button-holes?”

“I can make the stitch, I think,” answered Mary Frances, meekly.

“Indeed she will,”

“Well, I’ll teach you, child,” said Aunt Maria, getting a piece of muslin ready. “Now, let us begin to learn how to make

33.—Button-holes

Use Button-hole Scissors

All button-holes should be worked in a double fold of cloth. Use for practice, a piece of muslin six inches long and four inches wide. Fold through the center. Turn in and baste along edges.

(A)To Cut

With button-hole scissors, cut into the goods one quarter of an inch from folded edge. Cut along a thread of the goods to make it straight. Make opening a little longer than the button is broad. For button-hole, use No. 40 cotton, No. 8 needle. Barring and overcasting are often done with a finer thread than that used for the button-holing.

(B)To Bar

1. Make a small knot in thread.2. Put the goods over first finger, left hand—folded edge toward you.3. At the end of button-hole farthest from folded edge of cloth, insert needle between the double cloth, bringing it out at A. (See picture.)4. Point needle down at B; bring it out at A.5. Point needle down at C; bring it out at D. Do this twice.6. Point needle down at B; bring it out at A.

1. Make a small knot in thread.

2. Put the goods over first finger, left hand—folded edge toward you.

3. At the end of button-hole farthest from folded edge of cloth, insert needle between the double cloth, bringing it out at A. (See picture.)

4. Point needle down at B; bring it out at A.

5. Point needle down at C; bring it out at D. Do this twice.

6. Point needle down at B; bring it out at A.

(C)Overcasting

Overcast the edge on each side and end of the button-hole, catching the long “barring” threads.

To BarOvercasting

(D)Button-hole Stitch

Button-holestitch

1. With goods over forefinger of left hand, at end of button-hole farthest from the folded edge of the cloth, insert needle between the muslin; pull through, leaving a small end of thread between muslin.2. At same corner of button-hole, bring needle half way through. Taking both threads hanging from eye of needle between thumb and finger of right hand, pass the threadunderthe point of the needle, from right to left. Pull needle through, drawing the thread firmly near the button-hole. This forms the purl, which is well adapted to the constant wear upon the button-hole.3. Repeat until needle is at first stitch taken.

2. At same corner of button-hole, bring needle half way through. Taking both threads hanging from eye of needle between thumb and finger of right hand, pass the threadunderthe point of the needle, from right to left. Pull needle through, drawing the thread firmly near the button-hole. This forms the purl, which is well adapted to the constant wear upon the button-hole.

3. Repeat until needle is at first stitch taken.

(E)Finishing

Finished button-hole

1. Make barring stitches over the first barring stitches taken.2. Put needle through these barring stitches, forming the blanket or loop stitch,—make several loop stitches and bring needle to wrong side.3. Fasten thread by several small stitches.NOTE.—If thread is too short to finish button-holing, fasten it on wrong side of material. Enter the new thread on wrong side and bring thread through last button-hole purl, or twisted edge.

1. Make barring stitches over the first barring stitches taken.

2. Put needle through these barring stitches, forming the blanket or loop stitch,—make several loop stitches and bring needle to wrong side.

3. Fasten thread by several small stitches.

NOTE.—If thread is too short to finish button-holing, fasten it on wrong side of material. Enter the new thread on wrong side and bring thread through last button-hole purl, or twisted edge.

Aunt Maria gave Mary Frances these directions very slowly, making the little girl do each step as she explained.

“My,that’s thehardestthing yet”

“No, not that way, child,” she would say. “Sit up straight; place both feet firmly on the floor; hold your sewing high; do not stoop over. That is the correct position while sewing. Throw the thread more carefully. No, not so long a thread—it will tangle. Patience—child!”

“My,” exclaimed Mary Frances, “that’s the hardest thing I’ve done yet. Am I very trying to teach?”

“Well,” said the old lady, “you might be more so—but that’s a real respectable button-hole. But really, child, I must again repeat my lesson to you about neatness. Never leave your sewing room as I found it to-day.”

“There’s Grandma!” exclaimed Mary Frances, looking out the window. “Come, Aunt Maria, let’s go down.”

“Is my necktie straight?” asked the old lady of Mary Frances, taking her hand.

“Is my necktie straight?”

“She isan oldGrunt!”

“My,” said Mary Frances, returning to the sewing room, “aren’t they the dear old dears, talking together! A cup of tea and those two old ladies—there’s nothing under the sun they can’t think of—from Noah-and-the-ark to Forever-more! I wonder if I can finish Mary Marie’s pinafore. I’m going to make Angie a lot of clothes like Mary Marie’s.”

“Will the Old Grunt be back?” Scissors Shears was looking up at Mary Frances.

“Who?” asked Mary Frances.

“The Old Grunt,” said Scissors Shears, “fussin’ and gruntin’ over everything. We looked all right. She scared us—if we hadn’t dropped where we were she might have found out about us—and if she’d found out about us—we’d been Never-Nevers.”

“You must not call names,” said Mary Frances, gravely.

“She is an Old Grunt! So there! It was my work to teach you to make button-holes, and I so wanted to do it!” burst out Button-hole Scissors, excitedly.

He spread his funny little legs apart and looked up at Mary Frances most forlornly.

“Rip-her-up-the-back! Butty,” growled Scissors Shears.

“It was my work to teach you!”

“Be quiet!” exclaimed Mary Frances, “I’m ashamed of you both! I know it’s an awful disappointment to you, Button-hole Scissors, but, never mind, you shall help me sometime.”

“Magic and Mystery, we must—”

“Yes,” said Fairy Lady, smiling, “we must finish the pinafore. Here is

Pattern 8.—Doll’s PinaforeSee Insert II

To cut out—

Thepinafore isnot joinedunder arms

1. Fold goods lengthwise. Place edge of pattern having two rings (oo) on this fold. Pin in place. Cut out.2. Indicate place for straps and pocket by pricking with a pin, through pattern and material. Remove pattern.Run a red basting thread through the pinholes.3. Cut four straps, and the pocket.To make—Note.—The pinafore is not joined under the arms; therefore,1. Make a narrow hem along the sides of the front and back.2. Make a three-quarter inch hem along the bottom of pinafore.3. Make a tiny clip in the corners of the neck opening.Turn down one-quarter inch along neck on right side.4. Baste flat against this, one-half inch wide white linen tape. In turning corners, turn the tape completely over.5. Ends of sleeves, sides of sleeves, and sides and bottom of pinafore finished in same way.

1. Fold goods lengthwise. Place edge of pattern having two rings (oo) on this fold. Pin in place. Cut out.

2. Indicate place for straps and pocket by pricking with a pin, through pattern and material. Remove pattern.

Run a red basting thread through the pinholes.

3. Cut four straps, and the pocket.

To make—

Note.—The pinafore is not joined under the arms; therefore,

1. Make a narrow hem along the sides of the front and back.

2. Make a three-quarter inch hem along the bottom of pinafore.

3. Make a tiny clip in the corners of the neck opening.

Turn down one-quarter inch along neck on right side.

4. Baste flat against this, one-half inch wide white linen tape. In turning corners, turn the tape completely over.

5. Ends of sleeves, sides of sleeves, and sides and bottom of pinafore finished in same way.

Turn tape completely over

Pocket

Pin inplace

1. Make a quarter-inch hem at top of pocket.2. Turn in edges one-eighth inch. Baste.3. Pin in place shown on pattern. Hem, or stitch.

1. Make a quarter-inch hem at top of pocket.

2. Turn in edges one-eighth inch. Baste.

3. Pin in place shown on pattern. Hem, or stitch.

Straps

1. Turn in edges of straps one-eighth inch all around.2. Baste two straps together, wrong sides facing each other.3. Overhand, or stitch together.4. Pin in place as shown by red basting thread, and sew in place through a button.Or, a button may be sewed to the pinafore, and a button-hole worked in each end of the straps.(If this is done, hem a small piece of goods on the wrong side of pinafore under the places for the buttons, so that the pulling of the button will not tear the goods.)

1. Turn in edges of straps one-eighth inch all around.

2. Baste two straps together, wrong sides facing each other.

3. Overhand, or stitch together.

4. Pin in place as shown by red basting thread, and sew in place through a button.

Or, a button may be sewed to the pinafore, and a button-hole worked in each end of the straps.

(If this is done, hem a small piece of goods on the wrong side of pinafore under the places for the buttons, so that the pulling of the button will not tear the goods.)

Sew strap in place through a button

“And we’ll all help,—if you please.”

“Thank you, dear Thimble People,” said Mary Frances, spreading the pretty gingham on the sewing table. “Work very quickly—I haven’t many minutes. I’m so tired, anyhow,” and she leaned back in her rocking chair.

“Ithinkyou may”

“Mary Frances, Mary Frances, Mary Frances, dear!” called Grandma’s voice.

“Oh,” thought Mary Frances, “I’ve been asleep. It’s twilight, nearly.”

“Yes, Grandma,” she called. “I’ll come right down.” And she looked on the table expecting to see the gingham spread out, but it was nowhere to be seen.

“Look at Mary Marie,” whispered Sewing Bird.

There sat the proud dolly with the gingham pinafore all made and buttoned in place.

“How,—how?” stammered Mary Frances.

“We took her overTo Thimble Land;Over to ourFairyland,”

“We took her over

To Thimble Land;

Over to our

Fairyland,”

explained Sewing Bird.

“Can I go there some day?” asked Mary Frances.

“I think you may,But not to-day;Perhaps you’ll goAnother day!”

“I think you may,

But not to-day;

Perhaps you’ll go

Another day!”

sang Sewing Bird.

There sat the proud dolly

“Oh, thank you, you dear!” said Mary Frances.“Come, Mary Frances,” again called Grandma. “Why, dear child,” she said, kissing the little girl, “it’s nearly six o’clock, and we old ladies have been so busy living in the past that we almost forgot the present—that’s you.”

“Oh, thank you, you dear!” said Mary Frances.

“Come, Mary Frances,” again called Grandma. “Why, dear child,” she said, kissing the little girl, “it’s nearly six o’clock, and we old ladies have been so busy living in the past that we almost forgot the present—that’s you.”

I’m learning to sew,” whisperedMary Frances

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