FromVerdunI went toMetz, where I made some Stay. This is a very large Town, at the Conflux of theMoselleand theSeille. It was heretofore the Capital ofAustrasia, and afterwards reckon’d as an imperial City till 1552, that the Constable ofMontmorencymade a Conquest of it forHenryII. King ofFrance. The EmperorCharlesV. try’d in vain to retake it, when the Duke ofGuise, who commanded in the Place, acquir’d great Reputation in the Defence of it, and oblig’d him to raise the Siege, at which the Emperor was so mortify’d, that he resign’d his Dominions, and retir’d to a Cloyster.Metz,ToulandVerdunwere confirm’d toFrancein 1559, by the Treaty ofChateau-Cambresis, and this Cession was afterwards confirm’d by the Peace ofMunsterin 1648.
The Cathedral ofMetz, which is dedicated to St.Stephen, is a Church of greater Note for its Antiquity than for its Beauty. The most remarkable Thing in it is its baptismal Font, which is of one intire Piece ofPorphyryabout 10 Foot in Length.
There is very good Company atMetz, and I should have been glad to have stay’d there longer, if my private Affairs would have permitted it. There is a Parliament, which consists of a good Number of Men of Quality, who are all very rich. Besides, here is always a strong Garison, and several Persons of easy Fortunes, who commonly spend the Winter here. When I was here,M. de Saillantwas the commanding Officer.He liv’d with Splendor, and I commonly din’d with him, and supp’d with the Intendant of the Province, who was thenM. de Celiof theHarlayFamily, and was very much esteem’d.
When I set out fromMetz, I struck into the Road forGermany, and went toSpires. This Town may be consider’d as a Monument of the Ravage of War, there being a great many Ruins to be seen in it, which are the Remains of the Houses burnt by theFrench, in the War they made for the Destruction of the Palatinate. It was formerly the Seat of the Imperial Chamber, which after ’twas ruin’d, was transfer’d toWetzlar.Spiresis the See of a Bishop Suffragan to the Bishop ofMentz.
I pass’d theRhineatSpires, over a Bridge of Boats, and arrived in a few Hours atHeidelberg, from whence I went toStutgard, and so toUlm.[3]This is one of the most considerable Cities inGermany, and has magnificent Structures both sacred and prophane, and great Squares adorn’d with Fountains. Our Lady’s, which is the most considerable of all the Churches, belongs to the Lutherans, who are the Magistrates of the City; but the Roman Catholics are allow’d the free Exercise of their Religion here. This City was formerly but a Village, whichCharlemaingranted to the Abbey ofReichenau. The Inhabitants ofUlmredeem’d their Liberty on the Payment of a considerable Sum, after which they got their Town made an Imperial City, and at last it became the Capital ofSwabia.
Ulmis very well fortify’d; it maintains a stout Garison, and its Ramparts are furnish’d withgood Cannon; nevertheless, the Elector ofBavariatook it with Ease in the Beginning of the late War, when that Prince declar’d for his Nephew the King ofSpain, tho’ ’tis said, his Electoral Highness had a Correspondence at the same time in the Town. But the Battle ofHochstethelp’d to restore it to its Liberty, and notwithstanding the Menaces of theMarshal de Villars, it receiv’d an Imperial Garison.
FromUlmI went toAugsbourg[4], a very ancient City, where aRomanColony was planted by the EmperorAugustus, from whom it had the Latin NameAugusta. It has from time to time undergone several Revolutions: In 1518Luthercame hither to give a public Account of his Doctrine; and in 1530,CharlesV. summon’d the Dyet of the Empire hither, which Dyet was famous for the notedConfessionofAugsbourg, that the Protestants presented to the Emperor. In another Dyet held in 1548, the sameCharlesV. propos’d that Formulary call’d theInterim, with regard to the Communion in both Kinds, and the Marriage of Priests: This Formulary has done irreparable Injury to the Catholic Religion.
Augsbourghad a very great Share in the Civil Wars between our Ancestors, on account of Religion. During that Period, the Protestants seiz’d the City, and turn’d out the Bishop and Clergy; butCharlesV. having retaken it, re-establish’d theRomishReligion in it, and alter’d the whole Government, which continued in that State till the Beginning ofApril1552, when the Protestants took it again, and restor’d what the Emperor had destroy’d; and at length a Peace was concluded atAugsbourg; but the City didnot long enjoy the Sweets of it, and Violences were soon committed on both Sides. The famousGustavus Adolphus, King ofSweden, came to the Aid of the Protestants. He arriv’d atAugsbourgin 1632. The Inhabitants paid him extraordinary Honours, which was very provoking to the Catholic Princes, and to the Duke ofBavaria, who Two Years after punish’d them for it. This Prince having declared himself the Protector of the ancient Religion, besieg’dAugsbourg, and reduc’d the Citizens to such Extremity, that they eat Rats, Cats, and even human Flesh. It was settled at the Peace ofWestphalia, that the Catholics and Lutherans should tolerate one another, which was afterwards punctually observ’d. Nevertheless, this City was again molested by the Elector ofBavariain the last War, when he made himself Master of it, but his Troops abandon’d it immediately after the Battle ofHochstet. After the Peace ofWestphalia, the EmperorLeopoldsummon’d the Dyet of the Empire toAugsbourgin 1690, and there he caus’d himself to be crown’d, and his SonJosephto be elected King of theRomans.
The assembling of the Dyets, and the flourishing Trade atAugsbourg, have render’d it one of the most magnificent Cities inGermany. Its Squares are large, its Streets spacious, and its Fountains very beautiful. The Town-House is one of the finest Buildings that I have seen. ’Tis a vast square Edifice, well built of Free-Stone. The Porch is all of Marble. Almost all the Rooms are wainscotted and ceil’d with very fine Timber. There’s a Hall 110 Feet long, 58 broad, and 52 Feet in Height, the Pavement of which is Marble, and its Walls adorn’d with Paintings, intermix’d with Emblems and Devicesrelating to the Government. The Ceiling, which exceeds all the rest for its Beauty, has Compartments, the Squares and Pannels whereof are inrich’d with Sculptures, very finely gilt, and full of beautiful Pictures and other Ornaments. The Cathedral is large and spacious, with a most remarkable great Gate, all of Brass, over which there are several Scripture Passages, represented inBasso-Relievoof very nice Workmanship. The Episcopal Palace has nothing extraordinary. The present Bishop is of the Family ofNewbourg, and Brother to the Elector ofTriers, and the Elector Palatine. The Dignity of Prince of the Empire is annex’d to that of Bishop ofAugsbourg, in the same manner as it is to all the Bishopricks ofGermany. He is chose by the Chapter, which is compos’d of Canons, who are noble by Sixteen Descents. The Bishop’s Sovereignty extends over almost all the Territory ofAugsbourg.
I am now going to give you an Account of one of the most splendid Courts in allGermany, I mean that ofBavaria, which I had the Honour to see atMunich, whither I went at my Departure fromAugsbourg.[5]Munich, which is the Capital ofBavaria, stands upon the RiverIser, that falls into theDanube, for which Reason the Neighbourhood is almost all Meadow Land. The Town is not large, but very well built, so that I have scarce seen any that makes so gay an Appearance.Munichcontains several stately Buildings, both sacred and profane. Among the former, the Two finest, that I took Notice of, are, our Lady’s Church, and that of the Jesuits.
In our Lady’s Church there’s a magnificent Tomb of the EmperorLewisIV. adorn’d withFigures of Marble and Brass. There’s one Thing remarkable in this Church, and that is, at the Entrance of the great Gate there’s a particular Place, from whence, as one stands, we observe such a Regularity in the Disposition of the Pillars which support the Roof, that there is not a Window to be perceiv’d in it, tho’ there are a great many.
The Jesuits Church is also extremely magnificent. It consists intirely of one Nave, very lofty and spacious, the Roof of which is very noble, and adorn’d all over with Sculpture. The Vestry contains a great deal of Wealth in Relics, and in Vessels of Gold and Silver.
Their College is as magnificent as their Church, there can be nothing finer; and I could not help thinking the Outside of it exceeded the Electoral Palace. In the Inside there are great Rooms, which serve as Classes for the Scholars that come to study with them.
The Elector’s Palace deserves a diligent View, for it may compare with the Palaces of the most powerful Sovereigns; and I think that, excepting the Palace of theTuileries, there’s none so big. Yet for all this it has one Defect, common to the Palaces of all Sovereigns, it having been built at several Times, and being by Consequence irregular. The first Time I saw it, I own to you that I was disgusted at this Irregularity; and that it fell vastly short of the Idea I had conceiv’d of the Building from what I had read of it in the Relations publish’d by Travellers.
Of all the Parts of the Electoral Palace, there’s not one that is more magnificent than that which is commonly call’d theEmperor’s Apartment: The principal Room in it is a Hall, which is118 Feet long, and 52 broad, and may be reckon’d a complete Piece of Work; ’tis adorn’d with fine Paintings, representing sacred and profane History, which are rang’d in exact Order, one over-against the other; and under each of the historical Passages there areLatinVerses explaining the Subject: The Chimney-piece is as magnificent as the rest of the Apartment; on the Top of it there’s the Statue ofPorphyry, of admirable Workmanship, representingVirtue, holding a Spear in her Right Hand, and a Branch of gilt Palm in her Left. The Ceiling is adorn’d with gilt Compartments, and with Paintings of a noble Design.
Going out of the great Hall, we pass thro’ a very spacious Antichamber into the Hall of Audience, which is very much ornamented, as is all the rest. ’Tis there that the Electors give Audience to the foreign Ministers, and there are Eight great Compartments, shewing the different manners after which the foreign Princes give Audience to Ambassadors. There are other Pictures representing the Histories of several Judgments pass’d by Sovereigns, that have administer’d Justice in Person; and these Pictures are accompany’d with Hieroglyphics, Emblems and Devices suitable to the Subject.
The long Gallery is very magnificent, both for its Extent and for the Pieces it contains. ’Tis adorn’d withBasso Relievo’sof a noble Design, and with costly Pictures, among which are the Effigies and Names of 36 Princes, the Predecessors of the present Elector. There are also very fine Maps of the several Provinces, Cities and Appendages of his Electoral Highness’s Dominions. There’s another Gallery not quite so big indeed, but as finely adorn’d, and especiallywith very large Pictures, which represent the Histories of the Princes and Princesses of the Family ofBavaria. The Stair-case which leads to the grand Apartment I just now mention’d, is answerable to all the rest in Magnificence, there being nothing to be seen all about it but marble and Gold.
The Apartment which the Elector commonly resides in is very spacious, but irregular. I thought the Chambers and Closets a little too dark. The whole is adorn’d with rich Ceilings and magnificent Tapestries. The Electoress’s Apartment communicates with the Elector’s by a private Gallery. All the Princes and Princesses are equally well lodg’d, tho’ the Chambers of the Apartments are a little too small.
The great Chapel is very fine, and would be much more so, if it was more lightsome. The Electoress has one, which joins to her Apartment, but is not near so large as the former, and has the same Fault; tho’ otherwise ’tis a notable Piece of Building, and contains extraordinary Wealth.
The Garden of the Electoral Palace is not of the modern Taste. Round the one half of it there’s a grand Piazza, adorn’d with Pictures, representing the several Histories of the Princes of theBavarianFamily, which Pictures, I am told, were the Model for the Hangings in the Elector’s Wardrobe. At the End of this Piazza there’s a very fine House, the lower Parts of which serve as a Greenhouse for the Orange Trees. In the upper Part there are very commodious Apartments; where, in the Summertime, the Elector has a Drawing-Room. Near this Orangery there’s a Sort of Menagery, in which are kept Lyons and other wild Beasts.
The same Piazza leads also to the Riding-House, which is one of the finest I ever saw. ’Tis 366 Feet in Length, and 76 in Breadth. It has 80 great Windows, and all round within there runs a fine Corridor or Gallery to hold the Spectators, when there are any Carrousels or Tournaments. This Corridor is parted by the Elector’s Box, which is big enough to contain all the Electoral Family, and adorn’d with very rich Sculptures. The Gallery of the Palace, which reaches to the grand Piazza of the Garden, leads also to the Opera Room, which is very large, and very high. The Stage is answerable to the Grandeur and Magnificence of the Room, and the Decorations are superb, and very numerous. As the Electoral Prince is very fond of Music, he prefers the Opera to any other Performance, and gives Orders himself for what may serve to render it most splendid. You will judge that no Cost is spar’d, the Decorations, Machines, Habits and every Thing being equally noble, and well contriv’d.
Upon the Days that any Feast is celebrated at Court, as Birth-days and the like, when there’s an Opera, at the Overture there descends from the Top of the Stage a Lustre of extraordinary Grandeur and Structure, which rises up again immediately after the first Act; a Custom, for which I never could yet hear of any good Reason. This Lustre surprizes the more, because it comes unexpected. The Ceiling opens to let it down, as well as to take it up again.
’Tis said, that when the GreatGustavus Adolphus, King ofSweden, made his victorious Entry atMunich, one of that great Monarch’s Generals advis’d him to burn the Palace of the Electors, but he refus’d to do it, in which he wasGreater than the GreatAlexander, who reduc’d the superb Palace ofDariusto a Heap of Ashes. The only Thing that made theSwedishMonarch uneasy was, that he could not carry toSwedenthe fine Chimney-piece in the great Hall, that I mention’d to you.
I will next treat of the Princes that compose the August Family ofBavaria, which is one of the most Illustrious inEurope. The Elector’s Name wasMaximilian Emanuel Mary: No Man could have a grander Air, or a better Shape than this Prince had; and with those external Qualities, he had others, without which the former are of little or no Value. He was generous, affable, compassionate, and in Consequence ador’d by his Subjects: He knew how to support his Dignity with Grandeur: His Expence was great, but well-judg’d: He marry’d to his first Wife the Archduchess, Daughter of the EmperorLeopold, by whom he had a Son, who was snatch’d from him by Death, when the young Prince was become Heir to one of the chief Crowns in the World, after the Death ofCharlesII. King ofSpain, by Right of Succession from his Grandmother, who was the Daughter ofPhilipIV.
After the Death of the Electoress, the Elector marry’d a Princess ofPoland,viz. Theresa Cunegonda Sobieski, Daughter to KingJohn Sobieski. This Princess lives so retir’d, that, excepting her own Family, she sees no body but Two or Three Ladies and her Confessor. She resides most commonly atTaco, a Seat given her by the Elector. When the Princess is atMunich, she employs herself in Works of Charity, one while visiting sick Women, at other Times the several Convents; and in these Visits she never fails to leave Marks of her Bounty.
The Elector has had several Children by her: The First is the Electoral Prince, whose Name isAlbert Cajetan: This Prince gave Proof in the War inHungary, and at the Siege ofBelgrade, that he would be the Heir of the great Qualities of the Elector his Father, as well as of his Dominions: He acquir’d a high Reputation atVienna, and every body was charm’d with the grand Presence and Talents of this Prince, whose Deportment to all that came to him could not be exceeded for Civility. He talk’dLatin,FrenchandItalianwith as much Ease as his native Language.
The DukeFerdinandis the Elector’s Second Son, tho’ he was first marry’d to a Princess ofNeubourg, a Niece of the Elector Palatine. This Duke is the handsomest of the Elector’s Sons; he is perfectly well-shap’d, and has the finest Head of Hair that can be seen; in short, he is a very amiable Prince: He loves Pleasure, but is not a Slave to it; his favourite Sport is Hunting, which he follows commonly with the Princes his Brothers.
DukeClementis the Elector’s Third Son, and he who has hitherto been Fortune’s greatest Favourite. When I went toMunich, this Prince had been newly elected Bishop ofMunsterandPaderborn, in the Room of the Duke his Brother, who dy’d atRomea little after his Election to the Bishoprick. DukeClementwas already Bishop ofRatisbon, when he was chose Bishop ofMunsterandPaderborn; but he resign’dRatisbonto DukeTheodore, the last of theBavarianPrinces. These Four Princes, and a Princess, who turn’d Nun at the Time that I was atMunich, are the Elector’s whole Family, and the only Princes of the House ofBavaria.
You know,Madame, that the Electoral Dignity pass’d to this Family after the Disgrace ofFredericElector Palatine, King ofBohemia, who having been put under the Ban of the Empire, was turn’d out of theUpper Palatinate, which was given to theBavarianFamily, as a Reward for the Attachment they had shewn to the House ofAustria, and for the Expences they were at in the War. At the Treaty ofWestphaliathis Grant was confirm’d to theBavarianFamily, and the Son of the unfortunateFredericrecover’d his Dignity of Elector, with this Difference, that whereas before he was the first Elector, he was now become the last. The Dukes ofBavariaremain’d in Possession of theUpper Palatinate, and of the Dignity of first Elector. There’s none of ’em all that came up to the ElectorMaximilian Emanuel, and never was the Court ofMunichso splendid and numerous, as in his Time: The Ceremonial observ’d there is very much the same with that of the Imperial Court.
As to the Amusements of the Court ofBavaria, they pass’d their Time much after this manner: The Elector, who was an early Riser, went to Mass about 10 o’Clock, and afterwards held a Council, if it happen’d to be Council-Day, or otherwise his Electoral Highness play’d at Passage till Dinner-time. Then he return’d to his own Apartment, where he din’d privately, and during that Time, no body was admitted, except the Princes, the Officers in Waiting, and the Chamberlains. The Princes also din’d by themselves, tho’ they often admitted Gentlemen to eat with them. The Electoress, the Princess and the Duchess had also their separate Tables serv’d by the Elector’s Officers, which occasion’d an amazing Expence, as did also the HuntingEquipages; for the Elector went one Way, the Electoral Prince another, and DukeFerdinandanother, so that there were near 400 Horses running here and there every Day. When they return’d from the Chace, the Princes went and pass’d the Evening with the Duchess, where they found a great Assembly of Ladies; the Elector also went thither sometimes, and play’d at Pharao, or some other Game. Towards Supper-time he retired to his Apartment, where he supp’d with the Ladies. The Princes went and supp’d with the Electoral Prince, and the Duchess supp’d at her own House with the Gentlemen and Ladies.
On the Drawing-Room Days (which were Three Times a Week) Things were order’d otherwise. The Ladies went to the Electoress’s Apartment, or to the Orangery, according to the Place where the Drawing-Room was appointed. When it was kept at the Electoress’s Apartment, the Ladies went thither in the Court Dress, whereas at the Orangery they might appear in a Mantua. The Elector and the Princes were also there: His Electoral Highness convers’d awhile with the Ladies; after which they sat down to Play, and every one chose what Game or Partner they lik’d best. When the Play was over, the Company went into another Room, where there was a great Table well serv’d, at which, after the Elector, the Princes and the Ladies had taken their Places, if there was Room, they admitted Gentlemen to sit down with them, either Foreigners, or even such as were in the Elector’s Service. At this Table no Rank was observ’d, and the very Princes sat down where they could get Places.
When the Court was atNymphenbourg, the Elector’s Pleasure-house, the Diversions were much the same as at the Orangery, except that they took the Air more; and that the Ladies might enjoy this Pleasure to greater Perfection, there was always a Number of Calashes, each drawn by a Pair of Horses, which carry’d Two Ladies, and was drove by some Gentleman, while One or Two others stood behind them. Those who prefer’d taking the Air by Water, might easily be accommodated, there being for that Purpose upon the Canal Gondolas and Gondoliers after theVenetianmanner, which were always ready for Hire.
OnSundays, Holidays and Days of Rejoicing, the Elector din’d in public, with the Princes and Princesses of his Family, during which the Chamberlains waited, and at Night there was a Concert. The Ladies in their Court Dress met in the Apartment of the Electoress or the Duchess, and accompany’d those Princesses to the Opera, after which they return’d to the same Apartment; where, till Supper-time, they play’d; upon those Days the Ladies din’d with the Elector: Sometimes too, they carry’d Services for Three or Four Persons, and laid them upon the Gaming Tables, which was very convenient for those who were not willing to separate Company: After Supper there was commonly a Ball.
During the Summer, the Elector never fail’d to repair everyThursdayEvening to the Orangery, to hold a Drawing-Room, after which he went and lay atNymphenbourg, from whence he return’d uponSaturdays, to hold Councils onSundaysin the Morning; and in the Afternoon he went to some Pleasure-house.
This, which was the common Life at Court, was very often diversify’d, by Parties for Hunting, Fishing, or other Pleasures. The Elector himself gave Direction for all the Feasts he made, and I believe it would have been difficult to have found any body that understood the Matter so well; every Thing being conducted with such charming Delicacy and Regularity, that I own to you,Madame, I thought myself in some enchanted Island. What contributed to render the Court ofMunichyet more splendid, was, the Presence of the Countde Charolois, a Prince of the Blood ofFrance, who made some Stay here at his Return from the War inHungary[6]. That young Prince being spurr’d on by Glory, thought he could not better signalize his Valour, than by bearing Arms against the Infidels, with whom the Emperor had just declared War; but as he plainly foresaw, it would be difficult for him to obtain Leave from his Mother and the Regent to go out of the Kingdom, he resolv’d to get away without speaking a Word of it to any body but Two Persons that he carry’d along with him. The Day that he put this Project in Execution, he set out early in the Morning, on Pretence of going a Hunting. He travell’d Seven Post Stages without Baiting, with the Horses of the Duke his Brother, and he was got as far as theAustrian Netherlands, when they thought atChantillyhe was but in the Forest. He went toLiege, and from thence toBon, but always with an Equipage that did not denote his Quality. FromBonhe proceeded thro’MunichtoVienna; from whence without visiting either the Emperor or Empress he repair’d toBelgrade, which was thenbesieg’d by PrinceEugeneofSavoy. He distinguish’d himself greatly in this Campaign, and gave Demonstration that he was worthy of his Illustrious Blood. After the Reduction ofBelgrade, he went toVienna, where he stay’d some time, and then travell’d toItaly, from whence he return’d toMunich. The Elector, who had been perfectly well receiv’d by the Duchess, who was the young Count’s Mother, took a Pleasure to shew his Gratitude to the Prince her Son. He therefore lodg’d him at the Castle, and defray’d his and his Attendants Charges all the Time that he stay’d atMunich; he provided a Table for him in his Apartment for Twelve People; and when he din’d with the Elector, which he never did but with Ladies in Company; and when they were to go out a Hunting, his Gentlemen had a Table allow’d them, which was spread for Eight; but some Difficulties in the Point of Rank prevented the Count from dining in public with the Elector and the Princes. His Electoral Highness gave him a certain Number of Officers, Pages and Footmen to wait on him, and Care was taken to chuse such only to attend him as talk’dFrench; but he soon acquainted himself with theGermanLanguage to such a Degree, that the Country-People understood him better than they did me. Of this I had Experience one Day as I went a Hunting with him, when he bad me ask something of a Peasant, who I saw by his Looks did not know what I meant; but the Count accosted him with the same Demand, and the Peasant understood him immediately, by reason of theBavarianAccent, in which that Prince express’d himself happily: He return’d toChantillythe 1st ofMay1720.
Three Quarters of a League fromMunichis the stately Palace ofNymphenbourg[7], to which I have had the Honour to acquaint you the Court repaired very often. ’Tis impossible for a Place to be more charming; the Gardens especially are very beautiful: A grand Avenue leads toNymphenbourg, which runs fromMunichto the Iron Gates of the Palace. In the Front of this Palace, next to the Court, there are Three Pavilions, which are connected by Two Apartments for Lodgings. The middlemost Pavilion, which is larger than the other Two, is square, and contains a great Hall, finely adorn’d with Architecture, and an Apartment on each Side. The Two Side Pavilions are terminated by Two large Pavilions, that run further out, and form Two Wings. On the Side next to the Court there are Steps, by which there is an Ascent up to the Hall; and on the opposite Side there are others, which lead down to the Garden. From the Steps on the Court-side is a Prospect of a large Canal, lin’d on each Side with a Row of Elms, which is separated from the Court by a Grate.
As to the Apartments, they are all of the utmost Magnificence, but the only one that I shall speak of now is the Elector’s. The first Room at the Entrance is very fine, considering its Extent, but not much adorn’d, being altogether bare white Walls, so that only the Ceiling is painted. As one turns to the Right, we enter an Antichamber, which is a Thorowfare both to the Elector’s Apartment, and to another on the Left Hand, then occupied by the Countde Charolois. This Antichamber is wainscotted throughout,and leads to a Gallery, which is also completely wainscotted, the Pannels being painted white with gilt Fillets. There we saw in Compartments very fine Pictures, which represent either Hunting, or the Prospects of the Elector’s several Houses. From this Gallery is an Entrance into a large Antichamber, all over wainscotted, and adorn’d with Chimney and Pier-Glasses and magnificent Pictures. From thence, turning to the Left, we enter into a large Closet, the Furniture of which is a fine Sky-blue Damask, lac’d with Gold. The Ceilings, Doors and Window-Shutters are painted white, with giltBasso Relievo’s. In this Closet as well as in the Chamber next to it, are a great many very fine Pier-Glasses and Marble Tables: The latter is the Bedchamber; the Furniture and Bed are of blue Damask, as is also the Closet: Out of this Chamber there’s a Passage to a second Closet, furnish’d in the same Taste. These Three Pieces follow one another, and look into the Garden: The last mention’d Closet terminates the Elector’s Apartment, which communicates by little Offices and a Stair-case to a small Apartment which his Electoral Highness lives in, the great Apartment being only for keeping his Court. On the other Side of the Palace are the Apartments of the Electoress and the Princes, who are all lodg’d there very commodiously.
The Gardens of this Palace are very well laid out: As one enters them by the Steps from the Castle, the first Thing one sees is a very fineParterre, which reaches to a Wood, that is cut into Three great Walks, in Form of a Goose-Foot; in the midst whereof are Three Canals of Spring Water, the middlemost of which runsout of Sight, and has its Issue by Three Waterfalls, in Form of a Cascade. The Wood consists of Groves, adorn’d with Bowers, and noble Water-Works. On the Right Hand of the Garden is a Grove, which contains a Mall; and a little further is a very great Mall, in Form of a Horse-shoe. The Two Ends run to the grand Walk, and contain between them a Pavilion, built in Form of a Cross arch’d, consisting of Two Stories, and forming an Octogon Saloon in the middle with Four Windows, between which are Four Summer Houses, one of which is an Antichamber, the second a Bedchamber, the third a Closet, and the fourth a Stair-case. This House is built in the Form of a Pagod’s Temple, and all the Furniture isIndian, which is the Reason that ’tis call’dPagodenbourg. Over-against this pretty House, on the Left of the great Canal, are Bagnio’s. Nothing in the World can be better contriv’d, and more charming: All the Ceilings, theBasso Relievo’sand other Ornaments have some Relation or other to the Use for which this House is appropriated. The Baths are of Marble, adorn’d with Statues and Vessels of very great Price.
Tho’ the Elector seem’d to be mightily delighted withNymphenbourg, yet he was about building another Palace, which was to be call’dSchleisheim: According to the Designs that I saw of it, this Palace must be much larger and more noble thanNymphenbourg, so that they said, thatSchleisheimwould be theVersaillesofBavaria, andNymphenbourgtheMarly.
I spent my Time so agreeably while I stay’d atMunich, that indeed I was very loth to quit a Place so charming: Nevertheless, I set out witha Heart full of Gratitude for all the Favours I had receiv’d from the Elector, and the Princes his Children.
I lay the first Night atWasserbourg[8], and from thence went toPassau, which makes a Part ofLower Bavaria, and is a Bishoprick Suffragan ofSaltzbourg.[9]Passauis famous for the Treaty which was concluded there between the EmperorCharlesandMauricElector ofSaxony, whereby the Protestant Religion was establish’d and secur’d inGermany, where before it was only tolerated. This is a very pretty City, has fine Houses, and several Churches. The Cathedral, which is a quite new Structure, is very large, and in the Inside very magnificent, being adorn’d all over with Pilasters, and other Embellishments of Architecture, and the Roof painted inFresco. I was at Divine Service there onWhitsunday, and as every body then made the best Appearance they could, I observ’d the meanest Women of the Town were dress’d in Gowns of black Velvet, and scarlet Petticoats with Gold Lace, and that some of ’em had Pearl Necklaces of Five or Six Rows; and others Gold Chains with Rings, and Ear Pendants of Diamonds.
FromPassauI went down theDanubetoLintz, the Capital ofUpper Austria; and from thence toVienna[10], the Capital ofAustria, and the ordinary Residence of the Emperors, ever sinceMaximilian. This City, which was heretofore but a Bishoprick, was lately erected into anArchbishoprick, and the Archbishop takes the Title of Prince. The Cathedral Church, which is dedicated to St.Stephen, is an old Building, very magnificent, but dark: The City stands upon theDanube, an Arm of which separates it from the Suburb, which is call’dLeopoldstat: TheTurkshave made more than one vain Attempt to be Masters ofVienna.SolimanII. besieg’d itSept.25, 1529, but on the 14th ofOctoberfollowingCharlesV. oblig’d him to raise the Siege. In 1693 theTurksmade another Attempt, and besieg’d it with an Army of above 200,000 Men, when the EmperorLeopoldretir’d with all his Family to the Castle ofLintz, and left the Command of the City to the Countde Staremberg: The Count was forc’d to sustain terrible Attacks from theTurks, who push’d on their Works with Vigor, and the Place could hold out no longer, whenJohn SobieskiKing ofPolandadvanced to relieve it, at the Head of an Army ofPoles. He came in Sight of the Enemy on the 11th ofSeptember, and next Day gave them Battle, and obtain’d a complete Victory; for theTurksabandon’d both their Camp and their Artillery, and the Conquerors took a prodigious Booty, particularly such a vast Number of black Cattle, that ’tis said they were sold for Five or Six Florins apiece. The Emperor no sooner receiv’d the Tidings that the Siege was rais’d, but he set out fromLintzforVienna, where he visited the King ofPolandin the open Field, and made his grateful Acknowledgments to him for the signal Service he had then done him.
Viennareceiv’d a great deal of Damage at this Siege; Part of the Imperial Palace being reduc’d to Ashes, as well as several other grand Structures.The Emperor immediately set about repairing those Losses, and the Palace was rebuilt as it was before; and several of the Nobility also caus’d such magnificent Palaces to be erected, that in a short time the Town recover’d its former Splendor.
The Imperial Palace is large, but has nothing else scarce to boast of, for the Apartments are low, dark, and without Ornaments, and the Furniture is very ancient, tho’ scarce any Princes have a finer Treasure in Tapistry; and why ’tis not us’d, I can’t imagine: The Apartments of the Empress Dowager were the only ones fit to lodge in; for that Princess took Care to have them not only rais’d higher, but inlaid and wainscotted, which has given them a certain Air of Majesty they had not before. This Princess’s Apartment is hung with black Velvet, it being the Custom of the Imperial Court, for the Empress Dowagers never to quit their Mourning. The Bedchamber and the Closet call’dla Retiradeor the Withdrawing-Room, are the only Two Pieces that are not hung with black, the whole Furniture thereof being grey. For the rest, were a Stranger to see the Palace ofVienna, and to have no Notion of what it is before-hand, he would scarce imagine it to be the Residence of the first Prince ofEurope.
The Palace ofla Favoritain the Suburb ofVienna, where the Emperor spends the Summer, is even inferior to that in the City. ’Tis a very large House, built upon the Highway, without any Court before it, without Symmetry or Architecture, and which, as to the Outside, looks more like a Convent, than a Royal Palace. The Inside perfectly answers the Outside. There’s an Ascent to the Apartments by a great Stair-case,all of Timber, that leads to a Guard Chamber, which is a Room of no great Extent, and without any manner of Ornament; and from thence there’s an Entrance into other Apartments but half furnish’d, and very low, which in short is the Fault of all the Apartments. The Gardens of the Palace are as inconsiderable as the Building; they being full of large Fruit-trees, but in very bad Order, and I saw nothing there that can be call’d a fine Prospect.
Mean time the Court Nobility are far from being so ill lodg’d as the Emperor, for they have all stately Houses, both in the City and Suburbs. PrinceEugeneofSavoy’s Palace is the most magnificent Building that one shall see; for whether you examine the Outside or the Inside of it, the whole is of the best Contrivance, and the utmost Magnificence. The first Hall, which forms the first Piece of the grand Apartment, is all wainscotted, and adorn’d with large Pictures, representing the chief Battles won by PrinceEugene. From this Hall we enter into a large Antichamber, where we see a Suit of Tapistry Hangings, made by the famousDevosofBrussels, where that skilful Artist has represented the principal Transactions of the War to as great Perfection as possible: Out of this Antichamber we go into the Bedchamber; I never saw any thing so rich as the Furniture is there; the Tapistry is roll’d up in Pilasters of green Velvet, embroider’d with Gold, with Figures in Needle Work so finely drawn, that they seem to be Miniatures. This Piece is intirely furnish’d in all that Taste: The Closet next to the Bedchamber is all over gilt; and every thing in general in this Apartment is superb; the Paintings, Looking-Glasses, Marble Tables, the very Arms and Andironsbeing of most curious Workmanship: I ought not to omit the many fine Lustres, of which that in the Bedchamber is the most magnificent; and I have been told, that it cost 40,000 Florins: As to the Ceiling and other Pieces of Masonry, they are indeed very fine, but not so elegant as noble.
After having taken a full View of the Prince’s Apartments, I was shew’d the Library, which is in as good a Condition as any inEurope. The Books are rang’d in delightful Order, and the pompous Bindings form the finest Scene that can be. Hither the Prince comes every now-and-then to unbend himself from the Fatigues of his great Employments.
The Prince has a magnificent Garden in the Suburb ofVienna, which has a Court before it, that is separated from the Street by an Iron Grate of very curious Workmanship. In this Court is a very large Piece of Water, with a Row of Chestnut-Trees on each Side, that leads to the House, or rather the Castle, for ’tis a great and stately Building: They were still at Work upon it when I saw it. This House fronts the Garden, and takes up almost the whole Breadth of it. The Garden is shelving, for which Reason it was thought proper to place a very fine Cascade in the middle of it. There’s a very neat Structure at the End of it, which, like the House, takes in the whole Breadth of it. Below Stairs is a great Saloon, all lin’d with Marble of several Colours, and a Ceiling adorn’d with fine Paintings: From this Saloon there’s a Passage to a Room on the Left, the Ceiling and Wainscot of which are very fine; and then we enter into a large Closet, and next to that is a Bedchamber, with a Gallery and another large Closetat the End of that; so much for what is on the Left of the Saloon. On the Right Hand is another large Apartment, and the Chapel. The Backside of the Building looks into a great Court, where are the Stables and Coach-houses: ’Tis pity that this Prince, after he had been at so much Expence in this Building, did not buy the Ground where the Empress has since built a Convent. The Prince was advis’d to it at that very Time, but he refus’d, and said, he would not purchase the whole Suburb; to be sure he repents it by this time; for the Convent, which the Empress has caus’d to be erected there, is a great Inconvenience to that Prince, who cannot stir one Step at Home, without being overlook’d by the Nuns.
On the other Side of the City is another Suburb, which is very considerable, and the Walks there are very fine. ThePrat, for Instance, is a Place mightily frequented; ’tis a Wood in an Island, form’d by theDanube, where there is such a surprizing Concourse of People in fine Weather, that it may well enough be call’d,TheBoulogneGrove ofVienna. As one returns out of this Walk we come to another, call’dThe Emperor’s Garden: Here was formerly a beautiful Palace, but theTurkshaving burnt it the last time they besieg’dVienna, there is nothing of it to be seen now but the Ruins: The Garden is a large Spot of Ground, and, with a little Expence, might be made very fine, but no body seems to think about it, which I have been told is owing to the surprizing Swarms of Insects theDanubebrings hither at certain Times of the Year, so that People who come hither to walk, are forc’d to desert it: When they can come without this Annoyance, the Gentry usuallyrepair hither in the Evening; adjoining to this Garden is a very fine Wood, in which are cut out noble Walks: This,Madame, is all that is most remarkable inViennaand its Suburbs, as to the Buildings; I will next endeavour to give you an Idea of this Court.
The Court ofViennais, in my Opinion, the plainest, and at the same time the most magnificent inEurope: To explain this seeming Paradox, I must acquaint you, that, as to the external Appearance of the Emperor’s Houshold, nothing is so plain, nor indeed so dismal: His Liveries are of black Cloth, with a Lace of yellow and white Silk: The Cloathing of his Guards is much the same; and besides, they are not many in Number. The Palace, as I have had the Honour to tell you, is very inconsiderable; yet taking the Court all together, and considering the Number of Great and Petty Officers, the many rich Noblemen that spend high, and the several Princes that are in the Service of his Imperial Majesty, it must be confess’d, that there is not a Court inEuropeso splendid as that ofVienna. At the Time that I was there, the Emperor had in his Service Two Brothers of a King, Two Princes of Royal Blood, and a great Number of Princes of Sovereign or other Honourable Families: Nor is there a Court where there is a more sudden Transition from the meanest to the most stately external Appearance, and this they commonly run to such an Extreme, that they absolutely renounce Elegancy, to incumber themselves with Magnificence: For on solemn Days, as those of Births, Marriages,&c.one sees nothing but Gold, Lace and Diamonds without Number: And as soon as these Holidays, whichare call’dGala, are expir’d, they all resume their former Plainness.
After having given you this general Idea of the Court ofVienna, I will acquaint you how they commonly spend their Time: First of all, as soon as the Emperor is risen, he is dress’d; then he reads some Dispatches, and sometimes gives Audience to some Minister, or assists in Council. He afterwards goes to Mass, either at his own Chapel, or to some Church, according to the Festival. On the Days of Ceremony or Festival he is accompany’d by the Nuncio and the Ambassadors, upon which Occasion the Emperor rides thither with very great Pomp. The Grooms of the Imperial Stables on Horseback begin the Cavalcade, then comes an Equerry, and a Coach drawn by Six Horses, in which sits the Master of the Horse: He is follow’d by the Chamberlains, the Knights of the Golden Fleece, and the Ministers, all on Horseback, in black Cloaths, and Cloaks trimm’d with Lace. After these come the Footmen and Heydukes, in an antic Dress, and bare-headed. Their Imperial Majesties Coach comes next, between Two Files of the HundredSwiss: The Emperor rides always with his Face to the Horses, and the Empress over-against him, unless the Emperor goes into the Country, and then the Empress sits by his Side. The Pages and some of the inferior Officers of the Chamber follow on Horseback, and then Three or Four Coaches, with Six Horses, in which are the Empress’s Ladies: The Cavalcade is clos’d by a Company of the Garison atVienna, which is maintain’d at the Charge of the City, and mounts Guard at the Emperor’s Palace, his Imperial Majesty having no other Foot Guards.
After Mass is ended, the Emperor returns to his Apartment, preceded by all his Court, as when he came. The Nuncio and the Ambassadors are covered, as is also the Emperor; then come the Empress and the Archduchesses, each led by the Steward of their Houshold.
When the Emperor is return’d to his Apartment, he retires to a Chamber call’dla Retirade, or the Withdrawing-Room, where he stays till Dinner-time, which, when ’tis serv’d up, the great Chamberlain goes and acquaints the Emperor, who comes and sits down at Table with the Empress, attended by all the Ladies. A Chamberlain or Treasurer of the Chambers presents the Bason for their Majesties to wash in, who afterwards seat themselves in Two-arm Chairs: The Table did not appear to me to be serv’d with very great Delicacy. The Plate is old-fashion’d, and all the Dishes were set without any Regularity. Their Imperial Majesties have particular Plates to themselves, for which Reason small Plates are commonly made use of; and I have seen no less than Five or Six Spoons upon the Table at a Time: The Emperor covers himself as soon as he is seated; then the Nuncio and Ambassadors likewise cover themselves, and keep their Standing round the Table, till their Majesties have drank; their Liquor is presented to them by a Chamberlain; after their Majesties have drank to one another’s Healths, the Steward, the great Chamberlain, the Master of the Horse and the Captain of the Guards step forward to receive the Emperor’s Orders, and to know how his Majesty will dispose of himself in the Afternoon. The Ladies of Honour and the Officers belonging to the Empress advance to that Princess in like manner, to know her Pleasure,and then every body retires, unless there is Music, which happens very often: The Dinner does not last much above an Hour: Their Majesties stay at Table till every thing is taken away, even so much as the Cloth, but then a fresh one is laid on, upon which the Treasurer places a Bason and an Ewer of Silver gilt, and presents them to their Majesties to wash. The great Chamberlain presents the Napkin to the Emperor, as the Lady of Honour does to the Empress: This done, their Majesties retire to their Withdrawing-Rooms, tho’ they often go out a Hunting, or to shoot at a Mark.
When the Emperor shoots at a Mark, several Persons are enter’d down in a List to shoot with him, and there are Prizes distributed by those who are of the Society of Shooters, of whom the Emperor gives the first Prize, the Empress the second, and then all the rest, according to the Seniority of their Admission into the Society. At their Return from this Diversion, the Emperor grants Audience to those that send to desire it by the great Chamberlain, who takes Care to let them know the Time when his Majesty is to be spoke with. These Audiences are given without Ceremony, and they that receive them are introduc’d by the Chamberlain in waiting. The Emperor stands up and is cover’d, leaning with his Back against a Table, with a Canopy over him, and an Arm-Chair by his Side: The Person that approaches for Audience bends the Knee Three times, first as he comes in, next when he is in the middle of the Room, and the third time when he begins to speak. The Emperor hearkens with Attention, gives a gracious Answer, and if there be any thing obscure in what is deliver’d to him, he desires an Explanation. When thePerson has made an End of speaking, he bends one Knee to the Ground, and stretches forth his Hand, as a Signal that he desires to kiss that of the Emperor, which his Majesty never refuses. Then the Person retires, going backwards, and making the Three Obeisances that he made at Entrance. The same Ceremonies are observ’d in the Audiences of the Empresses; in order to obtain one from the Empress Regent, Application is made to the great Steward of her Household, who desires it, and then notifies what Hour will be most convenient for the Empress to grant it. At these Audiences there attends but one Lady of Honour, who keeps her proper Distance far enough to be out of the Hearing of what is said, while her Majesty’s great Steward stays at the Door in the Antichamber.
A shocking Abuse is crept into the Court ofVienna, in the Article of Audiences: The next Day after they have been had, the Domestics of the great Chamberlain and the great Steward come to demand a Fee for the Service done by their Masters in giving the Notice to their Majesties; and I have known some so impertinent, as to fix the Sum they claim’d a Right to. The HundredSwissand the very Ushers come likewise to wish happy Success to the Audience that has been obtain’d, merely for what they can get.
As soon as the Audiences are over, the Empress goes into a Room call’d,The Looking-Glass Room, because ’tis the only one in her Apartment where there are such Glasses: There her Majesty finds the Ladies, who kiss her Hand one after the Other, after which the Empress sits down to Play; none but the Ladies have the Honour to play with her, or have Permission to enter into that Room, excepting indeed the Emperor, thegreat Chamberlain, the great Steward, and the Princes who are related to the Empress. While they are at Play, the Ladies are seated round the Table, without observing any Precedence; nor is it even as ’tis inFrance, where the Honour of the Tabouret or Stool to sit on is paid only to the Duchesses; for atViennathose who are call’d Duchesses by way of Railery, are treated as if they were such in Reality.
There’s another Custom atVienna, very different from the Practice at other Courts ofEurope: Here are no Days fix’d for Drawing-Rooms or Circles, so that the Ladies, when they think proper, send to the Lady of Honour in waiting, to know of her at what time they may pay their Court to the Empress; and then they repair to the Palace at the Time appointed.
Towards Supper-time the Emperor goes to see the Empress; when the Company gives over Play, and the Empress rises, and admits those Ladies that are not to stay at Supper to kiss her Hand; after which their Majesties seat themselves at Table, which is serv’d much after the same manner as at Dinner: Their Majesties always sup in the Empress’s Apartment, where Two Wax Candles are plac’d upon the Table, which are chang’d Three or Four Times by one of the Maids of Honour: When she takes off a Candle, to give it to the Treasurer to snuff it, she makes a profound Curt’sy, and makes another when she replaces it on the Table. On theGalaor Festival Days, there is Music during the Repast. After the Bason has been presented to their Majesties to wash their Hands in, the Governess or Mother of the Maids presents the Napkin to the Emperor; and a Maid of Honour, who is at the same time Lady of the Golden Key, presentsit to the Empress. When the Archduchesses sup with their Majesties, the same Bason is presented to them that the Emperor has wash’d in, and a Maid of Honour presents them with the Napkin; and when the Emperor is risen from the Table, the Two first Archduchesses give the Emperor his Hat, and the Empress her Fan and Gloves; but, in the Absence of the Archduchesses, this is done by a Lady of Honour and a Maid of Honour, who must also be a Lady of the Golden Key: After this, the Ladies who waited at Supper kiss the Empress’s Hand, as her Majesty goes out of the Room, into the Chamber of Looking-Glasses. As soon as their Majesties are in this Chamber every body retires, to go to the Assembly, which, when I was atVienna, was held at the House ofMadame de Rabutin, whither came all theBeau Monde. PrinceEugeneofSavoywas there too every Night, where he play’d constantly at Picquet with the Countessde Badianiand some other Ladies. About 11 o’Clock the Company retir’d to the Places where they had appointed to sup, tho’ Supper is a Meal they seldom indulge themselves with, all the grand Entertainments being made at Dinners, and those extremely late.
The Empresses Dowagers are serv’d at Table with the same Ceremonies as the Empress Regent, and they commonly eat alone, with only the Archduchesses their Daughters. The Empress Mother always ate in private, but onSundaysand Days of Festival orGala, the Empress Dowager din’d in public.
I had the Honour to acquaint you before, when I was mentioning the Empresses Dowagers, that they never quit their Mourning; but this must be only understood of their Persons, for their Officersand other Domestics are clad in Colours: Yet, as to their Maids of Honour, let the Day ofGalabe never so grand, the Bodies of their Gowns must be a black Ground, embroider’d with Gold and Silver, but their Petticoats may be of what Colour they please. Those Princesses are never at any Play or Ball: As for the Archduchesses, it being the Custom atViennafor Sisters to dress alike, they must be dress’d all in their Hair upon the Days of Ceremony andGala, as well as their Maids of Honour: They generally wear the Court Dresses; but on the Days of grand Ceremony they wear Robes, much like Children’s Vests, and very wide Petticoats with great Trains.
Upon the Days ofGalathere are commonly Operas and Comedies: Their Imperial Majesties sit in the Pit, the Emperor in the chief Place, and the Empress on his Left, and the Archduchesses are in the same Row. All those of the Imperial Family have Arm-Chairs of the same Size and Height, with a Stand behind, upon which is a Wax Candle. Their Operas are magnificent, as to the Decorations and Habits, and good Judges have assur’d me, that their Music is excellent; but for my own Part I think them as sad as most of theItalianOperas, because neither of ’em are accompany’d with Dances, or any agreeable Entertainment.
I think,Madame, that I have related within a Trifle every Thing that is remarkable atVienna, whether at Court or in the City: I shall now give you a short Account of the Persons who compos’d that august Court at the Time that I stay’d there.
CharlesVI. was then upon the Imperial Throne, who is the second Son of the EmperorLeopold:After the Death ofCharlesII. King ofSpain, he was own’d King of that Monarchy by all the Princes of the Grand Alliance, and he then took the Name ofCharlesIII. He went to his Kingdom, and shew’d theSpanishNation, that he was worthy of being their Sovereign. The Death of the EmperorJoseph, his Eldest Brother, oblig’d him to return toGermany, and when he was atGenoahe heard, that he was chose Emperor. I have already had the Honour to give you an Account of his Coronation. The Reign of this Monarch has been signaliz’d by happy Events; the famous Peace concluded withFrance, restor’d that Tranquillity to the Empire which it had been for a long time depriv’d of, and that which was concluded some Years after with theTurks, secur’d the Happiness ofHungary, and all the hereditary Dominions.
The Name of the Empress isElizabeth ChristinaofWolfembuttle Blanckenberg: She is a Princess, who, besides all the Qualities of the Mind, has the most advantagious Aspect: She is the finest Personage at her Court, and ’tis easy to see by her majestic Carriage, that she was form’d by Nature to wear one of the chief Crowns in the World: She is very magnificent in her Apparel, and especially in Diamonds, of which she has to the Value of several Millions, and the Number is daily increasing by considerable Presents she receives from the Emperor. This Prince does Justice to the Merit of his august Spouse, who on her Part makes it her whole Care to give him Proofs of her Affection; ’tis impossible to find a more perfect Unity than that which is between their Imperial Majesties: There are Three Princesses by this Marriage; I had the Honour to seeonly the Two Eldest, for the Third was born some Years after my Journey toVienna.
She that is first in Rank, next to the Empress and the Archduchesses her Daughters, was the Empress, Dowager of the EmperorLeopold,Eleonora Magdalena TheresaofNewbourg: She was the Mirrour of the whole Court for Piety; for she spent most of her Time in Prayers at the Altars, or else in bestowing Charities, which were always very great. The Greatness of her Birth seem’d to make her uneasy, and she was vex’d to see the Honours which her Rank and Merit had entail’d upon her; she dy’d in a very advanc’d Age: She had several Princes and Princesses by the EmperorLeopold, as 1.Joseph-Jacob, who dy’d Emperor atVienna, the 17th ofApril1711. 2.Charles, the present Emperor, and Three Archduchesses; the one marry’d to the King ofPortugal; another, Governess of theNetherlands; and the Third, who resides at the Court ofVienna.
The Empress Dowager of the EmperorJosephresides also at the Court ofVienna, and her Name isWilhelmina-Amelia: She is the Daughter of the late Duke ofHanover, Uncle to the King ofEngland. After the Death of her Father, who left no Male Issue, this Princess went and stay’d some time inFrance, and her Sister having marry’d the Prince ofModena, she accompany’d her into that Country, where she stay’d till her Marriage, which was concluded atModenawith the EmperorJoseph, then King of theRomans; for whom the Duke her Brother-in-Law marry’d her as Proxy: She went afterwards toVienna, where she was the Admiration of the whole Court, not only for the Lustre of her Person, but for the other Qualities with which Nature has endow’dher: She took Care to cultivate her Mind with much Reading, and especially by the Study of the Languages, to which she gave great Application with Success, and she understandsFrenchandItalianas well as her native Language. This Princess had several Children by the Emperor her Husband, of whom there are but Two Princesses living; the one call’dMaria-Josepha, marry’d to the Electoral Prince ofSaxony, now King ofPoland; and the other call’dMaria-Amelia, marry’d to the Electoral Prince, now the Elector, ofBavaria.
These,Madame, were the Persons of whom the Imperial Family then consisted: I had the Honour in a few Days after my Arrival to kiss the Hands of all this august Family, and was afterwards introduc’d to the Ministers; so that in a very little time I was known by the whole Court, and was so happy, as to acquire some Friends of Distinction, who gave me Marks of their good Will, without putting me to the Trouble of dancing Attendance, and desir’d PrinceEugeneto give me an Employment: I had the Honour to wait on that Prince with particular Letters of Recommendation, that I brought from the Elector Palatine. The Prince, who receiv’d me very kindly, told me, that he could not insure me a Place, because the Colonels dispos’d of all the Employments in their Regiments; but that he would oblige me to the utmost of his Power; and indeed some time after, he was so good as to speak for me to the CountMax——ofS——, who gave me a Company in his Regiment, which was then inSicily. I was mightily charm’d with this Present, and imagin’d that Fortune was at length weary of having so long thwarted me: Yet when I began to think coollyof the Matter, I had some Reflections which made me relapse into my former Melancholy: I was not in Cash, and I saw that I could not avoid being at a considerable Expence. Besides, I had contracted some dribbling Debts, which I wanted to clear before I leftVienna: My Equipage was so much out of Repair, that it would cost some Money to remount it; and finally, there was a Necessity for my going toSicily; all which Things were not to be done with a trifling Expence: Upon this Occasion I receiv’d fresh Proofs of the Affection of my Friends, who all interested themselves for me effectually:Madamoseille de K——, Maid of Honour to the Empress Dowager, procur’d me a Gratuity from her Imperial Majesty; and the Countess ofW——, at whose House I was every Day, advanc’d me a Thousand Ducats, saying, That I should pay her when I was able, or rather, when I was preferr’d to be a Lieutenant-General. She accompany’d her Generosity too with some Advice, that was truly wise and christian, and seem’d to come rather from the Lips of a Mother than a Friend. This Lady was heartily glad that I had chang’d my Religion, and was the more willing to assist me in making an End of my Affairs, for Fear that I should be overcome by the Temptation of turning Protestant again, for the Sake of getting Employment in my own Country.
You see,Madame, by what I have just had the Honour to mention to you, that I was now in a Condition to quitViennawith Credit, and indeed my Stay there was no longer than to be a Spectator of Two great Solemnities, of which I am next to give you a Description: The first was the Entry of aTurkishAmbassador, and the second the Marriage of the ArchduchessMaria-Josephawith the Electoral Prince ofSaxony; upon both which Occasions the Imperial Court made the fullest Display of its Magnificence.
As to the Entry of the Ambassador, I may venture to say, it was only magnificent on the Part of the Imperial Court, for in Truth the Mahometan’s whole Train and Equipage were very inconsiderable. This Ambassador’s Name wasIbrahim Basha; he had 600 Men in his Retinue, but they were all very shabbily rigg’d. Till the Day of his Entry he stay’d in a Camp, which he had caus’d to be form’d Two Leagues fromVienna; I went thither with some Friends to see him: He receiv’d us with very great Civility, and made us a Present of Coffee and Sweetmeats. During this Collation I took a minute View of the Inside of his Tent, which was really stately, and the largest that I ever saw: On the Ground there was a noble Carpet spread, and over that a Sort of Foot-cloth of Crimson Sattin, embroider’d with Gold, on which sate the Ambassador, with rich Cushions about him of the same: On this same Foot-cloth, at the Ambassador’s Right Hand sate the Secretary of the Embassy: Round the Ambassador there was about a Score of Turks tolerably well dress’d, and among them Three or Four clever likely young Fellows; in particular I observ’d a Moor there, that was the handsomest Man I ever saw: His Dress was richer than the Garb of the other Turks, and, as I was told, he was the Ambassador’s special Favourite. After we had talk’d awhile with him, and were taking our Leave of him, he was so civil as to offer to shew us his Camp, which we with Pleasure accepted, and set out accordingly with a Person that the Ambassador gave us for our Guide.
This Camp took up more Space of Ground than would have serv’d for 2000 Men. The Tents were a great way from one another, and plac’d without any Order. Their Horses, Oxen and Camels were all stow’dhigledy pigledy. But the Ambassador’s particular Equipage was in a Sort of Park, inclos’d by Toils like those that are us’d in Hunting: Every thing was to the last Degree slovenly, the inferior Domestics especially were the most disagreeable Gentry I ever saw; they had not Cloaths to their Backs, but what were in Rags and Tatters; and the chief Domestics were but little better rigg’d; several of them however were mighty civil to us, and desirous to regale us in their Tents.
Some Days after this our Visit, the Ambassador made his Entry with great Ceremony; the Marshal of the Court went and met him Half a League out ofVienna, at the Head of the Magistrates of the City, those made free by the Court, all the Trading Companies and Gentlemen, all well mounted and richly dress’d: The Ambassador was dragg’d along by a Pair of wretched Horses in one of his own Coaches, which was a little low Chariot, made almost like the cover’d Waggons ofHolland, except that instead of Wax Cloth and Leather, it was cover’d with a red Cloth. When the Ambassador and the Marshal of the Court came near to one another, they both alighted, and after mutual Compliments mounted their Horses: There were carry’d before the Ambassador Three Horse-Tails and the Standard ofMahomet, which is a great Pair of Colours of green Taffeta, all sprinkled with Crescents of Gold: He who carry’d it was on Horseback, and that the End of the Colours might not trail upon the Ground, a Man that was on Foot heldup the Corners of it. The Ambassador was preceded by all his Equipage, in which there was Half a Dozen of Waggons, cover’d with ragged Tilts, and drawn each by Four scrubbed Horses, that were led by Carters, whose Cloaths were in a very bad Pickle. After this Equipage came the Ambassador’s Officers, and then twelve Horses, of which the Sultan made a Present to the Emperor. Behind the Ambassador there march’d a Company ofSpahis, that carry’d Pikes, with small Standards at the End of various Colours. These were follow’d by a Company ofJanizaries, who, tho’ but meanly clad, made a very warlike Appearance, their Arms and Legs being both naked: The March was closed by a Regiment ofHussars.
This Train pass’d before the Palace call’dla Favorita, in View of the Emperor and Empress, and then went thro’ the City, passing the Bridge over theDanube, into the Suburb ofLeopoldstat, where a House was prepar’d for him, according to antient Custom, which is, that noTurkishAmbassador must ever lodge in the City ofVienna.
The Ambassador seem’d to be very scrupulous in his Observation of the Ceremonial: He was loth to consent, that theJanizariesshould carry their Muskets on their Shoulders, when they pass’d before the Emperor at his Palacela Favorita; and pleaded in Excuse, that theJanizariesdid not march so even in Presence of the Sultan. He stood also upon his Punctilio in some other Trifles, to which however he was oblig’d to submit, or he was threaten’d that he should not make his Entry. The Ambassador on his Part to shew his Resentment, caus’d only Two Horse-Tails to be carry’d erect, and the Third downwards;but seeing that no body car’d for his being out of Humour, he soon came to himself again, and then was treated with Civility. He seem’d to be very fond of good Order, and caus’d some of his Domestics, who had committed certain Enormities, to be severely punish’d.
While the Ambassador stay’d atLeopoldstat,Viennaswarm’d withTurks, most of whom having never been out of their own Country, star’d with so much Surprise at every thing they saw, that it afforded daily Diversion to the Public. One Day I observ’d aTurkentringSt. Stephen’s Church at the Time when there was no Service, nor so much as a Soul in the Church. I was so curious as to follow him at a Distance, and to observe all his Motions, which made me very merry: The Place at which he discover’d the greatest Astonishment was the Choir, the Form of the Clergy’s Stalls there, the Construction of the High Altar; in a Word, every thing was to him a perfect Novelty: But the Thing which seem’d to puzzle him most of all was, a noble Lamp burning in the midst of the Choir: He turn’d round and round it again, and view’d it on every Side for a long while, but seem’d as much confounded as at first, wondring to be sure how they did to kindle it. Mean time, after a little Pause, he observ’d a String underneath it, which he took into his Head to pull, and finding that all came towards him, he brought the Lamp down to the Ground. I observ’d that he was mightily pleas’d that he had found out the Meaning of the Difficulty which had so much perplex’d him; and when the Fire was so near him, he pull’d a long Pipe out of his Pocket with so much Gravity, that I could not helpsmiling; and after he had lighted it at the Lamp, he hoisted it to the Place it was in before, and then went out.
Not many Days after the Entry of theTurkishAmbassador was the Ceremony of the Marriage of the ArchduchessMaria-Josephato the Electoral Prince ofSaxony. The Marriage had been projected a long time, and ’tis even said, that the EmperorJosephhad promis’d the King ofPolandin Writing to give his Eldest Daughter to the Electoral Prince, on Condition that he would turn to the Catholic Religion. Meantime, while this Match hung in Suspence, the Electoral Prince ofBavariaenter’d the List, which very much embarras’d the Court ofVienna, who did not know for which Match to determine. The Person employ’d in this Negotiation by theSaxonCourt was the Countde Wackerbarth. Soon after him the Electoral Prince in Person came to the Court ofVienna, and when he was oblig’d to return, he left the Countde Lagnascothere to take Care of his Interest; who at length obtain’d the Emperor’s Consent, and the Countde F——came with the Character of Ambassador to demand the Princess of the Emperor, which was done with very great Solemnity. As I was curious to know the Ceremonies usual upon such Occasions, I went to the Countde F——, on the Day that he was to go on the Emperor for his Audience. Who should I see arrive but the CountD’Oropesa, a Grandee ofSpain, Knight of the Golden Fleece, and one of the Emperor’s Chamberlains, in a Coach drawn by Six Horses, follow’d by a second Coach and Six, with the Emperor’s Arms and Liveries: His Imperial Majesty’s Footmen and the Count’s Lackeys walk’d on each Side ofthe first Coach. The Countde F——receiv’d the CountD’Oropesaas he alighted out of his Coach, and conducted him into a Room, where Two Chairs of State were plac’d under a Canopy of Crimson Velvet, inrich’d with Embroidery and Gold Fringe; and over the Chairs was plac’d the Picture of the King ofPoland. The Two Counts seated themselves in the Chairs of State, the Ambassador giving the Right Hand to the Count. They were both cover’d, talk’d for about a Quarter of an Hour, and then went out. The Ambassador stepp’d first into the Emperor’s Coach, and then the CountD’Oropesa, the former riding forwards, and the latter backwards over-against him. Four of the principalSaxonGentlemen in the Ambassador’s Retinue went into the second Coach. Then the March began, when one of the Coaches of the Court led the Way, follow’d by one of the Ambassador’s Officers, at the Head of Twenty-four of his Excellency’s Lackeys; the Coach wherein the Two Counts rode follow’d next; the Emperor’s Footmen and the CountD’Oropesa’s Lackeys walking on each Side: Then came Eight of the Ambassador’s Pages, Four of whom were in theGerman, and Four in thePolishDress; their Coats were of blue Velvet lac’d with Gold: Four Pages of the Back-stairs clad in blue Cloth lac’d with Gold follow’d the other Pages, and Three of the Ambassador’s Coaches with Six Horses each clos’d the March: In this Order did the Train arrive at the Palace; the Ambassador’s first Coach enter’d alone into the Inner Court, the Two others stay’d in the Outer Court. The Ambassador found the Emperor under a Canopy, and in the Name of the King his Master demanded the Archduchess of him in Marriage forthe Electoral Prince: The Emperor made him Answer, that he was very willing, on condition that the Empress, Mother to the Archduchess, and the Archduchess herself gave their Consent. After this Audience the Ambassador was conducted to the Empress Regent, and to the Empress Mother, of whom he made the same Demand, almost in the same Terms. The Princesses answer’d, That if the Emperor was willing, and the EmpressAmeliaand the Archduchess consented to it, they should see the Marriage concluded with Pleasure: Then the Ambassador was conducted to an Audience of the EmpressAmelia, of whom he made the same Demand, telling her too of the Answer he had receiv’d from the Emperor and the Empresses. This Empress made Answer, That the Emperor’s Will was always Her’s, that the Electoral Prince was a Match that she lik’d, and that she hop’d the Archduchess her Daughter would not be against it; and that she would go that Instant, and let her know what he came about: At the same time she turn’d to the Countess ofCaraffa, her Lady of Honour, and bad her send for the Archduchess: This Princess, being in an adjacent Room, came that Moment, dress’d most richly: And the Empress told her what the Ambassador had just declar’d to her on the Part of the King ofPoland, relating to her Marriage with his Son the Electoral Prince: She added, that the Emperor, the Empresses and Herself had agreed to the Match; that nevertheless she was left absolutely to her own Disposal, and that the Emperor did not mean to constrain her: The Archduchess made Answer, That she had no Objection to the Marriage, and that she obey’d their Imperial Majesties Orders with Respect.After this Declaration the Ambassador advanc’d, and addressing himself to the Archduchess, presented her with the Electoral Prince’s Picture adorn’d with Diamonds, which this Princess accepted, and without looking on it gave it to the Empress her Mother: The Empress, after having diligently view’d it, went to fasten it to the Body of the Archduchess’s Gown, but the Ambassador desir’d her Imperial Majesty to grant him that Honour; and after this Ceremony he return’d to his Palace as he came.