What can be the Reason why the People are so very slovenly I can’t imagine, for there are considerable Sums distributed every Year to keep the Streets clean: Perhaps it may be only owing to the Sloth of theSpaniards, for I don’t know a Nation upon Earth that is so much in Love with Idleness; and I am certain, that if they inhabited a Soil not so fruitful as their’s is, they would soon die with Hunger: In the Winter they delight to spend their Time in basking in the Sun: In the Summer they sleep all Day long, or else drink Ice-Waters, and they reserve their Walks for the Night: The Country-People, who in all other Parts are so inur’d to Labour, are as idle inSpainas the Town’s-People: They can hardly be said to till the Ground, for they only scrape away the Surface of it, and then scatter their Seed: Yet ’tis surprizing, that every thing comes up here as well as in a Country that is better cultivated.
TheSpaniardsbeing too indolent for Exercises that require any Labour, delight most of all in Walking, and in frequenting the Play-house, where they are sure of meeting with what is most diverting atMadrid: Yet I can assure you, there is nothing so lamentable as theSpanishRepresentations, and the Place where they are exhibited is horrible: ’Tis very dark, and over the Benches which are plac’d in Form of an Amphitheatre, are the Boxes for the Ladies, who look thro’ Grates. The Theatre is made after the manner ofRome, being a Row of Portico’s, that are screen’d by Curtains, thro’ which the Comedians enter upon the Stage: The whole is very indifferently lighted; but that which disgusted me more than any thing, was a Common-Sewer,of which I was sensible as soon as I enter’d the House, but could not presently discover where it was for Want of Light: It runs precisely under the middle of the Pit, and the Stench of it is intolerable. The Actors are very ill dress’d, and for the Generality very ill favour’d, or ill shap’d: The Actresses are more tolerable, but not much: The Plays are hardly better than those who perform them; yet theSpaniardssay, they are excellent Pieces. What most of all diverted me was their Dances between the Acts, than which it would be difficult to meet with any thing more ridiculous: Most of their Theatrical Performances are sacred Pieces, in which even the Mysteries of our Religion bear a Part: A Friend of mine actually assured me, that he saw the Holy Sacrament administer’d at it to a pretended sick Person, which, if true, I can’t imagine how the Inquisition, that is so severe in other respects, can tolerate such Abuses.
Now I am speaking of the Inquisition, I was an Eye-Witness of the Severity of this Tribunal while I was inSpain: For not many Days after my Arrival atMadrid, I saw several Persons burnt who were convicted of Judaism: Among those poor unhappy Sufferers was a young Woman of about 18 or 20 Years of Age, the beautifullest that I saw inSpain: She went to her Execution with Joy imprinted on her Countenance, and dy’d with the Courage for which our Martyrs are so celebrated: Some time after this Execution the Inquisition made a great Search all overSpain: Above 40 Persons were taken up in one Night atMadrid, and among the rest onePeralte, a famous Physician, who seem’d to have been fated by his Star to die by the Inquisition: His Mother, who was their Prisoner when shewas deliver’d of him, was burnt soon after her Lying-in: YoungPeraltewas brought up in the Catholic Religion, but at 30 Years of Age he was accus’d, and convicted of Judaism: His Punishment for this time was only Three Years Imprisonment, but at length he was apprehended a second time, and after I leftMadrid, I heard the poor Wretch was burnt there; in which the Prayers of his Mother were answer’d, for I was assur’d, that when this Woman mounted her Funeral Pile, she pray’d that her Son might one Day or other die the same Death: I was very glad that I was not atMadridat the time of thisPeralte’s Execution, for I had some Knowledge of him, and tho’ he was really a Bigot to Judaism, I thought him one of the civillest Men in the World.
I did not set out fromMadridto join my Regiment, but went a quite different Way, in order to touch some Money which I did not know how to come at inSpain: And that I did not, was surely no Fault of mine, for I don’t believe that ever any Courtier haunted Levees with so much Assiduity as I did, not only those of the King and Queen, but even the Father Confessor’s Levee, whose Protection alone would have done my Business, if he would but have honour’d me with it: I was therefore every Day either in the King’s Antichamber, or in the Reverend Father’s, if not in both; and I follow’d the Court to all the Pleasure-houses aboutMadrid: I saw the Escurial, a stately Building, whichPhilipII. caus’d to be erected in Memory of the Victory he gain’d over theFrenchnearSt. Quentin: ’Tis impossible to see a finer Structure than this is.PhilipII. intended at first to build only a Church and a Convent here, but afterwards hethought of having a Mansion here for himself, which is a perfect one of the kind: The Escurial is the Place where the Kings ofSpainare bury’d: The Vault in which their Bodies are deposited is a Master-piece of Architecture; every Place here shines with Gold and precious Stones.
PhilipV. was at this time building a Palace, now call’dSt. Ildephonso, the Plan of which I thought was magnificent: The Situation of it was very advantageous, and it was to be furnish’d with noble Gardens.
The Pleasure-house which I most frequented while I was inSpainisAranjuez, situate Seven Leagues fromMadrid, on the Banks of theTagus, which runs round all its Gardens: The Neighbourhood of it is very magnificent:CharlesV. caus’d Avenues to be made to it, which are now in their full Beauty: ’Twas atAranjuezthat I determin’d at last to take my Leave of his Majesty; for seeing there was no Possibility of getting any thing, I resolv’d to go toHolland, and from thence toGermany, in order to settle some Family Affairs: I thought once too I should not have had Leave to be gone, for the King did not seem inclinable to grant it: He was somewhat scrupulous upon this head, for fear I should change my Religion, till FatherDaubanton, who was not so delicate in things of this Nature, said two Words to his Majesty, and then he consented to let me go: This was the only Obligation I ever receiv’d from that Reverend Father: When I took my Leave of the King, he order’d me to return as soon as possible, which I promis’d, and really design’d; but Fortune, which always thwarted my Undertakings, made me steer a quite contrary Course. Mr.Stanhope, who was always as generous to me aspossible, was also very serviceable to me at my Departure, for he lent me 40 Pistoles for my Journey.
I set out fromMadridin Company with a Nephew ofM. de Seissan, who was going to see his Uncle atBilbao: The Name of this young Gentleman was the BaronD’V——: It was not long before I had cause to repent of having taken such a Companion with me; for he was one of those young Officers who are always ready to clap their Hands on their Swords for the least thing in the World: He was moreover so hasty, or rather so stupid, that he never took time to hear what was said to him, for which Reason he very often imagin’d, that he was insulted when People had been at the Expence of paying him a Compliment: This,Madame, is a Part of the Character of the Spark with whom it was my Destiny to travel: He was so apt to enter into Conversation with every body he met upon the Road, that it had like to have cost us dear on the first Day of our setting out; for as we were travelling in the midst of a pretty thick sort of a Forest, I perceiv’d at a Distance Four Men well arm’d, advancing towards us in the main Road. As we could not avoid passing between them, I advis’d my Companion to be ready with his Pistols: Those Gentlemen seeing us well prepar’d, let us pass, but as we both took them forFrenchmen, the BaronD’V——would needs stop our Chaise to enter into Discourse with them, and asked them who they were: They made Answer that they wereFrenchOfficers, who had fled their Country for an Affair of Honour: They asked in their Turn what News fromMadrid; during which I observ’d that they were coming a little too near our Chaise, whereupon Ibroke off the Discourse, by ordering the Postilion to proceed with all the Haste possible, because we had Business: At the same time the pretended Officers doubled their Pace in order to keep up with us; but by good Luck for us we discovered from a little Eminence a Convoy of about 40 Mules, and several Persons on Horseback that were coming our Way: Our Pursuers no sooner perceiv’d them, but they turn’d about their Horses, and rode off with such Speed, as confirm’d me in my private Suspicion, that we had been talking with Highwaymen; which soon after appear’d to be past all Doubt by our meeting with several Alguasils or Messengers that were scouring the Country in quest of Four Men, who we could easily guess by the Description they gave of them must be the same that we had like to have been embroil’d with.
Upon the second Day’s Journey my Companion and I had some Words together about paying our Quota’s: As I was the Caterer, and in all my Life-time never car’d to pinch my Belly, the Baron thought that I was not frugal enough, and refus’d at first to pay his Shot. However, he comply’d at last, but, as the Expence always run in his Head, he never gave me one kind Look all the Way, and even affected not to speak to me: For my own Part, when I saw him in such a moody Disposition, I chose to be as silent as he, and since I could do nothing better, I fell quietly asleep, and ere I awak’d we had gone a good way: My Fellow-Traveller never open’d his Lips till we came toBurgos.
Burgosis the Capital ofOld Castile, and was formerly the Seat of the Kings ofSpain: It has nothing remarkable but a very great Square,surrounded with Houses of an exact Uniformity, supported by Pillars, which form a Gallery round the Square. The Cathedral Church is a magnificent Structure, but intirely in theGothicTaste.
NearBurgosis a very numerous Abby of Nuns of Quality, who as well as all the Convents ofSpainhave considerable Revenues: The Country fromBurgostoVittoriais finer and better cultivated than inNew Castile, and the Villages seem more populous: I saw Peasants there so active to what theSpaniardsgenerally are, that I thought myself in another World.
Vittoriais a trading Town, situate in a fertile Plain, full of Villages: The Streets are very narrow, and the Houses, which are all of Timber, project in such a manner over the Streets, that opposite Neighbours may almost shake Hands from one Side of the Way to the other, which makes the Streets very darksome. This was the City, to which the QueenMary-LouisaofSavoyretir’d with her Children and the Treasures of the Crown, when the ArchdukeCharlesthe present Emperor, after the Battle ofSaragossaadvanc’d towardsMadrid, and thereby oblig’d KingPhilipto quitSpain.
We lodg’d at the Post-house, where we found much better Accommodation than we had yet met with any where inSpain: But when we came to pay, behold another new Scene! for my Part, I pay’d my Share without grumbling, because I always observ’d, that make never so many Words it must come to that at last: Therefore, after having given what they told me was my Part of the Reckoning, I stay’d but a little while in my Chamber, to see if I had left nothing behind me, when all on a sudden I heard a greatNoise in the Yard, upon which putting my Head out of the Window, I was very much astonish’d to see my Baron pulling the Coifs of the Landlady and Three or Four Maid-Servants, who were pommelling him to some Tune. I ran down Stairs ready to break my Neck, in order to rescue him out of the Clutches of those Termagants, and ’twas well I did, for the Landlady had snatch’d up a great Kitchen-Knife, with which she was going to run at him when I parted them, and with some Money the Landlady was pacify’d: What gave Occasion to the Quarrel was the Baron’s Refusal to pay what was demanded of him, and his pretending to go away without leaving any Money: The Landlady, who was not to be jested with, had seiz’d him by the Collar, and he, in order to get rid of her, gave her a Slap in the Face; and the Landlady insisted absolutely upon Satisfaction for the Affront she had receiv’d; but at last, after a great deal of Clamour, they let us go.
AtVittoriawe quitted our Chaise and took Horses, because of the bad Roads we were to go thro’ toBilbao, in a Country abounding with Hills and Woods, which are the Shelter of Robbers: We alighted at a Cabaret, which was a lonely House in the midst of a Wood, and were quickly surrounded by 7 or 8 arm’d Men, who really had the Appearance of Ruffians: They ask’d us if we were Officers, and if we had no others in our Company: I had Presence of Mind enough to tell them, that we had left a Company of Horsemen just behind, whom we expected every Minute at that same Cabaret, and accordingly I order’d the proper Quantity of Hay to be got ready for the Horses: I know not whether this News frighten’d them; however,they soon left us, and rode farther into the Wood: We presently remounted our Horses, and proceeded on our Journey: About a League from the Cabaret we came to one of the highest Mountains that I had ever seen in my Life: As it was very steep, winding Roads were cut out to ascend it, wide enough for Two laden Mules to go abreast. At the Foot of this Hill was a charming Valley, which, after having travell’d Three or Four Leagues in it, carry’d us toBilbao: This Valley is water’d by a River, the Banks of which are lin’d with Vines and several other Sorts of Trees: All this Country is extremely populous, so that one can’t go 200 Paces without coming to a House: Here is also a prodigious Number of Forges, and they cry up their Iron for the best in allSpain.
Bilbaois the Capital ofBiscay, and the prettiest Town that I saw inSpain: Its Walks especially are very beautiful: This City carries on a great Trade in Wool withHolland,EnglandandFrance, and there are commonly in its Harbour several Ships of these Three Nations. It was formerly a free Port, which tended very much to the flourishing of its Trade; butPhilipV. suppress’d that Franchise, and establish’d a Custom-house, which occasion’d a very great Disturbance. The Country-People, who were those that signaliz’d themselves most for the Preservation of their Privileges, took Arms, and engag’d several of the Citizens to join them: These Rebels committed a Thousand Outrages, kill’d several People, and set Fire to the Houses of such as they suspected had any Concern in the Establishment of the Custom-house: However, the Insurrection was quickly suppress’d, the Authorsof the Tumult were seiz’d, and several of the most mutinous were hang’d, which Examples of Justice had an Effect upon the Rabble; but, however, they were dealt with very gently, for this Tumult gave the Government a fair Handle to have depriv’d them of a great many most extraordinary Privileges, and such too, as were in some respect incompatible with the Good of the Public: For Instance, A Native ofBiscaycannot be sentenc’d to Death for any Crime whatsoever except High-Treason and Heresy; all their other Crimes, how enormous soever, being only punishable by Imprisonment or the Galleys.Cataloniaformerly enjoy’d the same Privileges, till it was depriv’d of them byPhilipV. when he reduc’d that Province.
NearBilbaoon a very high Mountain is a miraculous Chapel, which has been mightily inrich’d by the frequent Pilgrimages that have been made to it for a long time past: But of every thing that I saw in it, nothing struck me more than the High Altar: ’Tis only of Wood indeed, without Painting or Gilding, but the Workmanship of it is surprizing, and it may be look’d upon as Art’s Master-piece; I have been told, that he, who made this curious Piece of Work, was accus’d of Judaism, and burnt for it, some time after he had finish’d it: But, in good Truth, the Inquisition ought to have pardon’d him, purely for his Ingenuity.
I stay’d longer atBilbaothan I expected: I was every Day in Hopes of finding some Vessel that was going toHolland; but at last being tir’d with waiting, I went on board a Merchant-Ship ofBilbaothat was bound forLondon, by which means I had a Sight ofEnglandsooner than I expected: We had so fair a Wind duringthe whole Passage, that the Sixth Day after we set Sail, I found myself actually inLondon[29].
All the Places we pass’d by in the Way to this famous City form a Prospect beyond any thing whatsoever: Nothing can compare with the beautiful Scene in the Channel, to see the Multitude of Ships continually going up and down on one Side or the other: The noble Shores of theThames, cover’d with magnificent Houses and beautiful Gardens, give a grand Idea of the Riches ofEngland: I was pleas’d to see the noble Foundery of Cannon, Bombs and Bullets, and the Dock for the King’s Ships, whereof I saw several lying at Anchor, which were all stately Vessels, and worthy of so wealthy a Nation as theEnglish. I was above all surpriz’d at the Bulk of one of those Men of War, which they told me was that the Admiral goes on board of whenEnglandsends him out to Sea. On the left Side of theThamesalso, before one comes toLondon, we see a magnificent Building for the Invalid Sailors: And near this Hospital lie the King’s Yatchs, which serve to carry his Majesty and his Court over toHolland, when he repairs to hisGermanDominions: The King’s Yatch is very large, and richly carv’d and gilt: From this Place toLondon-Bridgeis nothing to be seen but Ships and Boats continually coming and going, and both Sides of the River are lin’d with Ships at Anchor, which forms a magnificent Shew: I fancy that ’tis impossible for a Foreigner to behold the continual Motion upon this River without Amazement: I shot the famous Bridge ofLondon, which, considering the Length of it,and the Tides of Flood and Ebb, to which it is expos’d, ought really to be reckon’d one of the principal Bridges of the World: The Breadth of it is by no means answerable to the Length, and what renders it still narrower is, the Houses and Shops built upon it, which are none of the best, and yield a bad Prospect.
I went ashore nearWhitehall, which was formerly a magnificent Palace, and the Residence of the Kings ofEngland, but had the Misfortune to be consum’d by Fire in the Reign ofWilliamIII. andMary: What remains of all this Palace is only one great Pavilion of very fine Architecture, which was formerly a Banquetting-house, and is now a Chapel. ’Twas atWhitehallthat the unfortunateCharlesI. was beheaded, and in the Remains of this Palace the Window is still to be seen, thro’ which that Prince pass’d to the Scaffold, that was erected over-against it.
The Palace ofWhitehallfacesSt. James’s Park, which is the same toLondonas theThuilleriesare toParis, tho’ the former is much more frequented than the latter; but that which takes off very much from the Pleasure of the Walks is, the Promiscuousness of the Company, Livery-Servants and the Mobility being suffer’d to walk here as well as Persons of Distinction: In the middle of this Park is a spacious noble Canal, which is a very great Ornament to it: The Walks are kept in good Order, and especially that call’d theMall, which is the longest of all: On the Right Hand of this Walk going fromWhitehallstandsSt. James’s Palace, which is now the ordinary Residence of the Monarchs ofEngland: ’Tis a very ancient Building, which was formerly a Convent, and has still very much the Appearance of one; so that, were it not for theGuards about it, a Stranger would hardly imagine it to be the Palace of a Sovereign Prince: There are Two Entrances to it, one onSt. James’s Side, and the other towardsWhitehall, and at each there attends a Company of the Foot-Guards with a Pair of Colours, and of these there are Two that always stand Centry with their Swords drawn. The King ofGreat Britain’s Guard is the sprucest that I ever saw: They are all of a proper Size, but not Soldiers for mere Shew, as they are every where else, those who are admitted being oblig’d to bring Certificates of their Service: They are distinguish’d by the Terms of Life-Guards, the Grenadier-Guards, the Halberdiers and the Foot-Guards: The Life-Guards wear scarlet Cloth lac’d with Gold at all the Seams, and fac’d with blue: They are always booted when they are upon Guard, and dare not be seen without their Boots till they are reliev’d. The Habit of the Horse-Grenadiers is like that of the Life-Guards, but they wear Caps of Sky-blue Cloth, which have the Order of the Garter embroider’d on the Front with Gold and Silver. The Habit of the Halberdiers is somewhat uncommon: They are dress’d after the antique manner in scarlet, with a Lace in the King’s Livery, which is of blue Velvet with a broad Gold Lace in the middle; and they wear Caps of black Velvet, adorn’d with white Feathers: The Foot-Guards have red Cloaths with blue Facings: This,Madame, was what I observ’d when I made my Entrance intoLondon.
I steer’d my Course toSt. Anne’s Quarter, where I had a Direction to some honestFrenchRefugees: After I had rested a few Days, I took some Measures to make my Appearance at Court, but without Success: The King and hisGermanCourt had been so prejudic’d against me byMadamoiselle de Pollnitz, that ’twas impossible for me to obtain an Audience of his Majesty. The Princess ofWaleswas concern’d at my Situation, and so good as to make me a Present, but theGermanswho were at Court were, like their Master, shy of me, so that I was fain to content myself with keeping no Company but theEnglish, of whom I met with several that I had seen inFrance, and with whom I renew’d my Acquaintance: They us’d me with all the Civility imaginable, and took Care to carry me to the several Quarters ofLondon, where there was any thing worth seeing: They first shew’d meSt. Paul’s Cathedral, which, next toSt. Peter’s atRome, is the biggest and the most magnificent Church inEurope: It was begun after the great Fire ofLondon, in the Reign ofCharlesII. and not finish’d till the Reign of QueenAnne: The Outside of the Structure is as magnificent as the Inside: The first thing that presents itself is the Statue of QueenAnneon the right Side of the West-Entrance, which is the Front: She is represented standing upright, as big as the Life, dress’d in the Royal Robes, with a Sceptre in one Hand, and a Globe in the other: Both the Statue and the Pedestal on which it is plac’d are of Marble: But I did not think this Monument answerable to what might have been expected from a Nation so famous as theEnglishfor their elegant Taste in the Arts and Sciences: Nor did I judge more favourably of some other Pieces of Sculpture in the Inside ofSt. Paul’s Church, which did not seem to be the Performances of Masters. I thought the Choir by much too small, considering the Bigness of the Nave: The Choir is separated from the Body of the Churchby a Balustrade of Wood, resembling a Gate, over which the Organs are plac’d to a disadvantagious View, owing, as I take it, to the Chasms on the Sides: Opposite to the Entrance of the Choir is the Communion-table, fenc’d round with a Balustrade and a Form whereon the Communicants kneel: At the Right Hand of this Table is the Seat of the Archbishop ofCanterbury, which is rais’d some Steps above the Ground; and over it is a Canopy, like to those of the Catholic Bishops: All round the Choir are little Pews or Stalls like the Boxes in a Play-house, and there the Magistrates usually sit, when they come to the Church in a Body: The Preacher’s Pulpit, which is plac’d in the middle of the Choir, is a plain Piece of Work of Wallnut-Wood, and of an octogon Figure, so contriv’d, that one does not see the Stairs by which the Preacher goes up to it: On the Right Hand of the Door of the Choir is a Canopy, and a Seat like to that of the Archbishop ofCanterbury, which is for the Bishop ofLondon.
FromSt. Paul’s I went to seeWestminster-Abbey, which being in a Part of the Town at a good Distance fromSt. Paul’s, oblig’d me to take a Hackney-Coach: These Vehicles are very common atLondon; but being made without a Spring, are intolerably uneasy: However, they are of excellent Service to rid a great deal of Ground in a little time; for the Horses, which are very good, gallop for most Part, but the Pavement they run upon being the worst inEurope, it gives terrible Shocks to those who make Use of this Equipage, as I experienc’d in my Jaunt to the Abbey ofWestminster. This is the Church in which the Kings ofEnglandare consecrated and interr’d: ’Tis a very ancientPile, without any other Beauty but its Bulk: There is a good Number of Chapels within it, in which are the Tombs of several Kings, Queens, and even of private Persons; but of these there are few worthy of Remark: ’Twas in this Church I saw that call’dSt. Edward’s Chair, which is of Wood, without any Ornament; and they say, it is the Chair which that Saint made Use of: The Kings are seated in it at the time of their Coronation: On one Side of this Chair is a Press, wherein is preserv’d in Waxwork the Effigy of GeneralMonk, who, after the Death ofCromwell, restor’dCharlesII. to the Throne of his Ancestors. In a Chapel hard by I was shewn another Statue in Waxwork, which representsCharlesII. himself as big as the Life, dress’d in his Robes as Knight of the Garter: In the same Chapel I also saw the Waxwork Statue of the Duchess ofRichmond, in her Habit as Duchess.
In this Church I met With anEnglishGentleman, an old Friend of mine, who carry’d me to the Parliament-house, where the King was expected that very Day, to put an End to that Session: And really I had not been long there before I saw the King enter in his royal Robes, and the Crown upon his Head: As I was inform’d his Stay there would be short, I went out, and plac’d myself in his Passage, that I might see his Retinue: I saw him go into his Coach, drawn by Eight Horses, attended by his Horse-Guards, and preceded by another Coach, in which sate the principal Officers of the Crown: The King ofEnglandnever rides with this Attendance, but when he goes to meet his Parliament; for he is generally carry’d in a Sedan, with Six Footmen walking before, and Six Halberdiers, or Yeomen of the Guard, by the Sides of the Chair;while the Officers that are in Waiting commonly follow his Majesty in Coaches, drawn each by a Pair of Horses: The Prince and Princess ofWalesare attended, when they go out, much in the same manner: I observ’d a Custom among the Livery-Servants of the King and their Royal Highnesses, which I saw at no other Court,viz. That when they are in Waiting, they wear, instead of a Hat, plain Caps of black Velvet, made like the Caps of Running-Footmen.
After I had seen the King pass by, I went and din’d with my Lord ——, whose Brother I had seen inSpain: There I spent the Afternoon, and at Night he carry’d me to the Opera, where I was highly pleas’d, not only with the Performers, who were the best Voices inEurope, but with the Orchestre, which could not be finer nor better fill’d; yet, for all that, I don’t think it comes up to the Opera atParis; for this atLondonis quite destitute of Dances, or at least when there are any, they are so ill executed, that they are intolerable to Persons of a nice Taste: The Stage-Dresses are indeed much richer than those of theFrenchActors; but then they are not of that clever Fancy, which theFrenchalone may boast to be their peculiar Perfection: TheEnglishStage has another Defect, and that is, the extreme Want of Performers, for they know nothing of Chorus’s, and when the Scene demands the Appearance of any Retinue, ’tis generally compos’d of People that they pick up where they can get them; for which Reason they all look very silly and confus’d: The Place where the Boxes are, is in a manner round: ’Tis small, but very lofty, and I thought the Seats very well laid out: The whole Company sits down, even those in the Pit, in which there are Benches that forman Amphitheatre, which is not very high, but almost of a circular Figure, so that every body faces the Stage: This Place is so well lighted with Wax-Candles, that it dazzles one’s Eyes, which is a very great Diminution to the Lustre of the Theatre: The King, who was at the Opera when I was there, sate in a Box on the Right Side of the Stage, without any Distinction, and convers’d all the time with Three Ladies that were in his Box.
Some Days after this I went to theEnglishComedy: I shall say nothing of the Play that was acted there, because, as I did not understand the Language, I could only judge of it from the Applause that was given to it: The Actors seem’d to be excellent, at least, if I might judge, by their Gesture and Carriage, so that it would be a difficult Matter to find any that appear to better Advantage.
The little Prospect I had of obtaining any Employment at the Court ofEngland, and the visible Decay of my Finances, forc’d me to think of departing very soon: Therefore, without Loss of Time, I made my Tours about the City ofLondon, in order to see what was most worthy of Remark: I found very fine Courts, and more Squares than in any other City I ever saw, which would have been more magnificent, if they had not been spoil’d by inclosing them with wooden Pales, to convert the Ground within into Gardens. The Houses are commonly very small, most of them have no Courts before them, and there are few that have Gardens: But I must except a good many Hotels or Palaces, that are very magnificent; such as the Duke ofMontague’s House, which is built in an exquisite Taste: The Court before it is very large andbeautiful; and the Garden perfectly answers the Beauty of the Building: The Stair-case is worth seeing by those of the nicest Skill: The Ceiling representsPhaetonasking Leave of the Sun to drive his Chariot, and the Fall ofPhaetonis describ’d at the Entrance of the Saloon, just at the Top of the Stair-case: The Apartments on each Side of this Saloon are also very beautiful, and most richly furnish’d.
I went afterwards to see my LordMarlborough’s House, which is very magnificent, and full of Pictures, done by the most able Hands, whereof the greatest Number was byVandyke: After having in like manner taken a View of several other great Houses, of which I don’t undertake to give a Description, I was shew’d a Column, which in my Opinion far surpass’d the famous Pillar ofTrajan: ’Twas theMonument, erected in Memory of the terrible Fire that happen’d atLondon, soon after the Restoration ofCharlesII. to the Throne ofEngland: ’Tis pity but this Pillar had more Room to stand in, it being pent up in a pretty close Nook, which is the very Spot where the Fire first broke out: There’s aLatinInscription upon it, shewing all the Circumstances of that sad Misfortune: In the Pedestal of this Monument is a Door, that opens to Stairs cut out in the Pillar, by which People ascend to the Top of it; and in allLondonthere is not a Place from whence there is a more extensive Prospect of the Country, except it be the Cupola ofSt. Paul’s.
Not far from this Monument is that Structure which is call’d theRoyal Exchange, where the Merchants meet every Week-day from Noon till Two o’clock: ’Tis a very large quadrangular Building, and its principal Front is very magnificent:The Square, where the Merchants meet, is encompass’d with a fine Gallery, supported by great Arches of beautiful Architecture: In the middle of it is a Marble Statue ofCharlesII. who is represented standing upright, and dress’d in his Royal Robes: In certain Niches over the Arches there are the Statues of the Kings and Queens ofEngland, which are all of Stone, and so imperfectly done, that they are a Blemish, rather than an Ornament to the Exchange: Near this Building is another Statue ofCharlesII. on Horseback, which is a Monument of white Marble, but so ill perform’d, that I believe it would have been better if it had never been put up: The Equestrian Statue ofCharlesI. erected betwixt theHaymarketandWhitehall, which is all of Brass, is much better executed: Good Judges particularly admire the Horse, which is one of the boldest Pieces that is to be seen, and was cast by the same Workman that cast the Horse ofHenryIV. atParis; but the Statue of the King was done by another Hand:Cromwell, who had no Respect for the Blood of his Sovereign, did not care to have his Statue preserv’d, but caus’d it to be pull’d down, and set to Sale: A Founder, that was a zealous Royalist, purchas’d it, on Pretence that he would melt it down, but, as soon as he had it brought Home, he caus’d it to be bury’d under Ground, where it remain’d tillCharlesII. was restor’d to the Throne, and then he made a Present of it to that Prince, who caus’d it to be erected on that Pedestal of white Marble which we now see.
A little Distance from theExchangeis the famous Tower ofLondon, which is of the same Use to this City as theBastilleis toParis, with this Difference however, that ’tis not so easy fora King ofEnglandto store it, as it is for a King ofFranceto fill theBastille: This Tower is properly speaking a Citadel, form’d of a Number of Houses, surrounded with Fortifications: Here is the Arsenal, which is the best furnish’d, and kept in the best Condition of any inEurope: In this Tower are also preserv’d the Ornaments and Treasury of the Crown: The principal Pieces are 1. The Crown ofEdward the Confessor, with which the Kings ofEnglandare crown’d: ’Tis of solid Gold, set with Diamonds and other precious Stones. 2. The Crown of State, which the King wears when he meets the Parliament: It has a remarkable Pearl, an Emerald, and a Ruby upon it, so large, that the Value of them is not to be estimated: After I had seen this Crown, I was shew’d that which serv’d for the Coronation of Q.Mary, the Daughter ofJamesII. ’Tis cover’d all over with Diamonds, admirable both for their Size and Beauty: Then I saw the Prince ofWales’s Crown, which is all over plain, without any Jewels; and besides these, I had the Sight of many other rich Things, of which I don’t pretend to give you the Particulars: I will only add, that the Method of exposing them to View is very well contriv’d, to prevent their being stole; for they are only seen thro’ a large Iron Grate, so strong, that it would be a hard Matter to force it.
After I had seen the Treasury, I was carry’d into another Room, where I saw all the Statues of the Kings ofEngland, fromWilliam the Conqueror, Duke ofNormandy, toJamesII. They are represented in Armour, and on Horseback, but the whole is of Wood colour’d, which makes them frightful Objects.
As you might happen to think me tedious if I were to be more particular, I chuse to pass over many things in Silence, and shall only say a Word or two of the Character of theEnglishPeople: I thoughtEnglishmenwere much the same in their own Country as theFrenchare out ofFrance, that is to say, haughty, scornful, and such as think nothing good enough; and in like manner they are when abroad, what theFrenchare in their own Country, good-natur’d, civil and affable: Of all Nations I found theItalianswere most esteem’d inEngland, theFrenchandGermansbeing in some Degree hated: But their Hatred to theGermansis of no older Date than the Reign of the Elector ofHanover; for till then theEnglishlook’d upon us as if they neither lov’d nor envy’d us, but now they have a Notion, that the Money ofEnglandgoes over toGermany; and seem to think, that we had no Coin, till they call’d the House ofHanoverto govern them[30]. As to their Hatred of theFrench, ’tis of a longer standing, insomuch that it would be a difficult Task to determine the Age of it; and I am apt to think, it runs in their Blood; for the Antipathy extends even to the minutest Things; for Example, in the Article of Dress; when theFrenchwear little Hats, theEnglishwear theirs with monstrous broad Brims; and when they know that great Hats are worn inFrance, they reduce the Brims of theirs till they are as much too narrow; and ’tis the very same case with regard to the rest of their Dress; sothat I am persuaded, theEnglishwould soon quit any Fashion, were it ever so becoming and elegant, if once theFrenchthought fit to follow it[31]. But how changeable soever they are in their Fashions, as well as theFrench, yet they have not the Fancy which the latter are remarkable for, and know not how to dress to Advantage; for, in short, there’s not a People upon Earth that set themselves off so ill as theEnglishdo, and really they had need to be as well-shap’d as they are for the Generality, or their Dress would be insupportable.
TheEnglishWomen are also perfectly well-shap’d, and are for most part pretty, and very agreeable Companions; but, like the Men, they han’t the Art of Dress; and tho’ they are always very neat in their Cloaths, yet they have such an odd way of putting them on, as if they endeavour’d to disfigure themselves: When they go out in a Deshabille, they commonly put on a Camblet Cloak as long as their Petticoats, which is clos’d before, and on each Side there is a Slit, thro’ which they put their Arms: They have withal a Hood of the same Stuff as the Cloak, which is tied under the Chin with a colour’d Ribbon[32]. Nor is this Dress unbecoming to the Sex, for ’tis very often us’d by the Citizens Wives and Daughters, and is also much worn among the gay Ladies, when they go upon Intrigues with their Lovers; at which time they repair thus rigg’d on board certain Wherries, that carry them to Houses of Entertainment design’d for such Interviews; the very Boats too seem tobe made to the Purpose, being cover’d with scarlet Cloth, or very neat Stuffs, and the Watermen being us’d to the Business, manage it as well as the Gondoliers ofVenice.
That amiable Freedom which reigns inEnglandgives the People an Air of Gaiety that is to be met with no where else so universally: The Nobility, the Citizens, and the lower Rank of People have all their Recreations; and whereas in other Countries the Rich alone seem to have a Right to Pleasures, theEnglishNation has Diversions for all Classes; and the Mechanic, as well as his Lordship, knows how to make himself merry, when he has done his Day’s Work. TheEnglishare very much for Shows; Battles especially, of what nature soever, are an agreeable Amusement to them, and of these they have all Kinds: Sometimes they engage Bulls with other Beasts, and at other times they have Cock-fighting: You have undoubtedly heard talk, how these little Animals will fight: The Cocks ofEnglandare the best in the World for this Sport, that being a Species, of which there is not the like in other Countries: Their Bill is very long, and when they have once begun to fight, they battle it with such Fury, that one, if not both, is generally left dead upon the Spot. Before they are exposed in the Pit where they are to engage, little Spurs are fasten’d to their Feet, with which those Animals gall each other dextrously: TheEnglish, who are no indifferent Spectators of the Engagement, form themselves immediately into several Parties in Favour of the Combatants; and, according to the Custom of their Country, lay considerable Wagers; for, it must be observ’d, there is no Nation in the World so fond of laying Wagers as theEnglish.
The Battles of Animals are not the only ones to be seen inEngland, there being very often Combats of Gladiators, when the Wretches for pitiful Lucre fight with one another at Swords, and very often wound each other cruelly: TheEnglishdelight very much in this sort of Prize-fighting: They shout loud Applauses when either of the Two wounds his Antagonist, and when the Battle is over, the Two Combatants shake Hands, and make each other a low Bow, to shew they don’t bear one another any Malice: I can’t conceive how they find any Fellows to take up such an Exercise; the rather, because ’tis liable to very fatal Consequences; for they say, that by their Laws, he who wounds his Adversary, shall be at the Expence of curing him, and he that kills him, is to be hang’d without Mercy.
There’s another sort of Prize-fighters, who fight every Evening in the Summer in a Square nearSt. James’s, with no other Weapons but Quarter-staves, or wooden Swords, with which they break one another’s Ribs, or knock one another on the Head, and the Victor is generally regal’d by some or other of the Spectators. I have also seen, as I have been going over the Square, a pack of Wrestlers, that endeavour’d to throw one another down, and when one of the Two has tripp’d up his Adversary’s Heels, he politely gave him his Hand to help him up again: At all these Performances considerable Wagers are laid, as I have already had the Honour to tell you.
After having seen every thing atLondonworth a Stranger’s Curiosity, I was prevail’d on, before I leftEngland, to go and take a View of the Royal Palaces in the Country: I sawHamptonCourtandWindsor, which are Two magnificent Palaces, yet Trifles in comparison with the Royal Palaces ofFrance:KensingtonPalace pleas’d me well enough: ’Tis a House that formerly belong’d to anEnglishNobleman, of whom KingWilliambought it, because ’twas so nearLondon: They were making some Alterations at it when I was there: The King’s Apartment is very spacious, but not the most magnificent, and ’tis adorn’d with some Paintings byVandyke, which are of uncommon Beauty; One of these Pictures represents KingCharlesI. on Horseback, and in another are his Queen, her Waiting-women and all her Children: I never saw any thing better done than these Two Pieces are.KensingtonGardens would be very fine for a private Person, but for a King, methinks I could wish them to be somewhat more magnificent.
Having finish’d my Travels inEngland, where I stay’d near a Month, with a View of the Royal Palaces, I embark’d forHolland; but had not a quick Passage, by reason of a Calm, that surpriz’d us at Sea, so that we could neither go forwards nor backwards: At length, in Five Days after we had leftLondon, we arriv’d in the Mouth of theMaese, where we bore a hard Gale of Wind, which blew all Night: Next Day we got safe into theMaese, and by Noon came toRotterdam, from whence I set out the same Day for theHague.
As soon as I arriv’d there I thought of renewing my Wardrobe, and refitting my Equipage. Tho’ all this would not come to a great deal, yet being then very short of Money, I was forc’d to go a borrowing: I therefore gave Letters of Attorny to my Creditors, to receive an Annuitywhich came to me from my Family, and of which I shar’d one Third with my Brother, andMadamoiselle de Pollnitz. As my Brother and I were Minors when my Grandmother left us that Annuity,Madamoiselle de Pollnitzbeing the eldest of the Family, qualify’d herself to receive it: She was first paid the whole upon her own Receipts, but afterwards she gave each of us our Share, which she all along continued to do ever since I was of Age: My Creditors were glad to accept of the Powers which I delegated to them, but, for their greater Security, they desir’d me to make myself sure and certain thatMadamoiselle de Pollnitzwould punctually pay them: I wrote immediately, and desir’d them to write to her likewise; but as my good Cousin was never a hearty Friend to me, she thought fit to thwart me in the Expedient I had contriv’d to raise Money: Instead of doing me the Honour to write me an Answer, she wrote to my Creditors, to caution them to be upon their Guard; that I only meant to cheat them, that I had no Share in any such Annuity, and that every Word I had told them about it was a Lye. My Creditors were somewhat startled at this Intelligence, and imagin’d that they had to do with a Knave, who only intended to bilk them, and that they should be left without Remedy if I once gave them the Slip: I did every thing on my Part to make them easy; I told them thatMadamoiselle de Pollnitzhad conceal’d the Truth from them, on Purpose to involve me in Trouble; and that I would engage she should retract the Letters she had sent them: Besides this, I offer’d to pay them out of the Income of my own Estate: But all I could say to them signify’d nothing; their Jealousy had taken deep Root, and they resolv’d, in orderto secure their Debts, to arrest me: And so they actually did; for oneSundayMorning I was accosted by some ill-favour’d Companions, who desir’d me to remove with a good Grace to the Prisons at theHague, if I did not like to be carry’d thither by Force. I was a little confounded at such a Visit, and saw that I must instantly lose my Liberty, and perhaps for a long time too, whenMadame Pyll, a Tradeswoman at theHague, to whom I was already indebted, was so kind as to advance me what was necessary to pay my Creditors; by which means I got out of the Clutches of those impertinent Fellows.
Not many Days after this happen’d, other Creditors being inform’d of it, imagin’d that the only infallible Method for their being paid was, to take the same Course with me, and they also resolv’d to arrest me: Accordingly, Notice was brought to me at 6 o’Clock in the Morning, that ’twas apprehended there was a Design form’d against me, and that some Serjeants were sauntring about to nab me: I had my Breeches on indeed, but nothing more than a Night-gown; and not caring to take the Trouble of dressing myself intirely, especially as I knew that there were not many People stirring at theHagueat that time, I thought it best to steal off in my Night-gown: I made my Escape to the House of my dearMadame Pyll: I could have wish’d this good Woman would have once more pacify’d those ravenous Hounds, but I had not the Assurance to mention it to her; and only desir’d she would give me Shelter for a little while, which she granted with Pleasure: But I was soon under a Necessity of shifting my Quarters, for the Catch-Polls being inform’d where I was harbour’d, were actually coming to take me, whenthis honest Woman help’d me to slip out at the Back-door, and lent me a Cloak, in which having muffled myself up, I had nothing to think of but how to get away from theHague: I put myself on board theDelftPassage-Boat, and went in quest ofTexera, a richPortuguese, who had a House half a League from theHague. We were such good Friends, that I was persuaded he would not abandon me in the Situation he found me in: And indeed, with all the Generosity possible, he advanc’d me what Money I wanted, and had me conducted toHonslaerdyk, where I stay’d Two Days in the Castle: My Keeper happen’d to be one that was Waiting-woman to my late Mother, who did me all the Services she was capable of, and went and acquaintedPyllwhere I was; upon which she came to see me, and brought me my Cloaths: I then consider’d what I had to do next: I had a great mind to return to theHague, to treat with the Creditors who prosecuted me; but considering, that perhaps as soon as I had made these easy, others would give me fresh Trouble, I resolv’d to go toGermany, where I should be nearer at hand to write to my Family for the settling of my Affairs; for I was still under a Prohibition to go toBerlin; tho’ why I was thus forbid to go to my own native Place, I knew not.
I went the Road toAix la Chapelle, in Hopes that I should there find the Countde L——, to whom I had lent 400 Ducats 7 or 8 Years ago. He was then in the Service of the Elector Palatine, and I was assur’d that he was in waiting aboutAix. The first Day I went toDort, and from thence toBois le Duc.
This is a pretty considerable Place inDutch Brabant: ’Tis encompass’d all round withMarshes, and may easily be laid under Water for several Leagues round, which makes it one of the strongest Places inEurope: ’TwasHenryofBrabantthat gave it the Name ofBois le Duc, orBolduc, i. e. theDuke’s Wood, because he directed the Building of it in 1171, in the same Place where he caus’d a Wood to be cut down.
AtBois le DucI went into theDiligence, which is the Name of the Stage-Coach that goes toMastricht: I made an Acquaintance in it with anEnglishGentleman that was going toAix la Chapelle, to make use of the Waters: He came directly fromEngland, and being, as ’tis probable, over-burden’d with his Guineas, he was at every turn exclaiming against the Cheapness of every thing on this Side of the Water: But a little Adventure he was engag’d in atMastrichtalter’d his Opinion: He went out all alone the very Night we came thither, with a Design, he said, to take a little Walk about the Town; and in his Ramble he met with a very amiable young Creature upon the great Square, with whom he enter’d into a Conversation: After having parley’d with her some time, he offer’d to wait upon her to her Lodgings, and she was not so unsociable, but she accepted of his Proposal: MyEnglishmanthought himself a happy Mortal, and the Damsel appear’d so amiable in his Eyes, that he begg’d her Permission when he was at her Quarters to treat her with some Refreshments: When they had empty’d some Bottles, and theEnglishmanwas ready to take his Leave, he threw down a Guinea, and thought he paid full enough, but the Damsel demanded another: The Gentleman scrupled to give it, and insisted upon it with some Warmth, that a Guinea was sufficient in all Conscience to discharge the Expence he had puther to: No doubt he should have paid more Respect to such civil Company. The offended Damsel call’d the Landlady, who fell upon the poorEnglishmanlike a mad Woman: These Two were join’d by a Third Fury, who all together pummell’d theEnglishmansoundly, tore his Cravat, and turn’d him out of Doors without so much as giving him his Perriwig: To complete his Misfortune, it rain’d as hard as it could pour, and the Night was so dark, that he could not see which way to steer his Course: He knew not who to ask for; and besides, he had forgot both the Inn, and the Name of the Street where we lodg’d: At last, being quite weary of running up and down the Streets so long, he took it into his Head to knock at every Door, from whence he met with no Return but hard Names: While he was rapping at one Door, he was surpriz’d by the Patroll, who carry’d him to the Watch-house: It was well for him that the Officer upon Guard was not an ill-natur’d Man, for he had the Patience to hear him give a very confus’d Description of the Inn, of which he had absolutely forgot the Name; and upon his saying that there were several other Inns in the same Street where his was, they guess’d pretty near where-abouts it was: Then the Officer lent him a Cloak, and having given him a Watchman to go along with him, they thundred at the Doors of several Inns, which not being the Inn that they wanted, there would certainly have been some Uproar, if it had not been for the Watchman that theEnglishmanhad to attend him: At last, as they were still wandring about in quest of the Inn which neither of them knew any thing of, theEnglishman’s Lacquey, who was seeking his Master, met him, and carried him to his Quarters: You mustknow, that this Adventure made it a very disagreeable Night to me; for being extremely tired, I went to Bed as soon as I had supp’d, and theEnglishmanbeing to lie in my Chamber, his Lacquey, who staid up there for him, disturb’d me sadly; for when he saw ’twas late, and that his Master was not return’d, he came every now-and-then to my Bed-side, and wak’d me to know what he should do; so that, to get rid of him, I advis’d him at last to turn out, and look for him. As soon as they came into the Room, I was forc’d to undergo the Penance of hearing the whole Story of his Adventure: The Lacquey was in a terrible Wrath with the honest People that had insulted his Master, and he propos’d to go out that Moment, and break open the Doors, and turn the House out of the Windows; but the Master having more Wit in his Anger, thought it best to bear his Disgrace with Patience, and to rest his Bones after so much Fatigue.