The Public Schools in the town provided for the poor are numerous, and generally well conducted. The principal are Wilde’s, Annot’s, and the British School.
John Wildeleft several estates, together with the rents and profits thereof, to be applied for a virtuous and learned schoolmaster, who shall teach forty boys to write and read and cast accounts, and shall also teach them the Latin tongue.
Thomas Annot, merchant of this town, also left money for founding a grammar school at Lowestoft; and by a decree, given in Gillingwater, it is ordered “that the same school shall consist of a schoolmaster, learned in the art and knowledge of grammar, and able to instruct and teach the rules and principles thereof, and the Latin tongue, and other things incident, necessary, and belonging to the said art, to be master, tutor, and teacher of the scholars in the said school, consisting of forty scholars and not above, to be taught and instructed within the said school.”
Henry Wilde, known by the name of the Arabian Tailor, was master of this school. He was a great proficient in the oriental languages, and was sent by Dean Prideaux to Oxford, where he gained a poor living by teaching languages; he afterwards removed to London, where he died. Mr. Rogers is the present master.
The British School is a neat building, on thesouth turnpike, which was opened in 1844, on the liberal principle of educating the children of all, without distinction of sect or party. It is principally supported by the Independents and Wesleyans, assisted by the munificence of S. M. Peto, Esq. M.P. Mr. M. Hinde is the efficient master.
Sabbath Schools are connected with most of the places of worship in the town.
At present there are two fishing seasons during the year.
The Herring season begins about a fortnight before Michaelmas, and continues till Martinmas. At the beginning of the season the boats sail off to sea, about thirteen leagues north-east of Lowestoft, to meet the shoals of fish. Having arrived on the fishing ground, the fishermen shoot their nets, (extending about 2,200 yards in length, and eight in depth, which, by simple means, are made to swim in a position perpendicular to the surface of the water,) in which the fish are entangled. As soonas the fish are brought on shore they are taken to the fish houses and salted; they remain in salt two or three days, are then washed; then spitted; (i.e.an osier wand, about four feet long, is thrust through the gills of as many as can hang freely upon it,) the spits are then hung upon rafters, with which the upper part of the fish houses are fitted up; fires of oak billet are made on the floors of the houses, by which the fish are at once dried and smoked; the herrings hang thus about a fortnight, and then they are fit for market.[56]
The Mackerel season begins about the middle of May, and continues to the end of June. At the beginning of this season the boats sail to the north-east, in order to meet the fish at the beginning of their annual revolution round the British Isles. A blustering stormy season is best suited to the successful prosecution of this fishery, for only then do the fish rise in large quantities, within reach of the nets, the meshes of which are larger than those used in the herring fishery. The fish are generally brought in every day.
Small boats called ‘along shore boats,’ generally the property of those who use them, are employed in catching whatever fish will come to their nets; these are speedily brought into the town, and disposed of for the consumption of the inhabitants.
There were formerly two other fisheries, the North sea and Iceland fisheries, but they have long since been entirely neglected.
The vicar of the parish makes a claim of half a guinea from each boat on its return from the herring fishery; and half a dole,—i.e.one three-hundredth part of the whole catch—from the mackerel boats at the close of their season. The legality of these claims is disputed, and, in the case of the latter, legal proceedings were instituted in 1845, by the Rev. F. Cunningham against Mr. John Roberts, who declined payment of the demand. Those persons who are interested in the affair may obtain a sight of the argument, as maintained by the legal adviser of the plaintiff, in Suckling’s History,in loco; and of the argument, as maintained by the defendant, in a Lecture delivered and published at the time, by the Rev. J. Browne.
Before Kett’s insurrection in the year 1549, there were six pieces of cannon for the defence of the town; these were carried off by the insurgents to batter the walls of Yarmouth. To replace these, Queen Elizabeth presented to the people of Lowestoft four pieces of cannon and two slings; these appear to have been carried away by Cromwell in 1643, but afterwards he found it necessary to build a fort and plant four guns upon it; some time after, the platform on which these guns were placed was destroyed by the sea, but the guns were rescued; after which, another platform was erected which shared the same fate; on this occasion also the guns were preserved.
In later times it was found expedient to build three Batteries; that on the south was begun and finished in 1782. The fort consists of a ditch mounted withchevaux de frize; the magazine (in the north-west angle of the fort, thirty feet long and twelve broad,) is sunk beneath the surface of the earth, and is bomb proof. To the east of this fort is the promenade, and the green known by the name of the Battery Green.
In the same year a fort was erected at the north end of the town, about one hundred yards to the north of the light-house; this battery was intended to act with another erected during the same year on the beach, near the ness, the bounds and breastwork of which are still clearly visible.
There was, some years since, a manufactory of Porcelain or China-ware in this town, but it has fallen away and become extinct. Specimens of the ware may be frequently purchased in the cottages in the neighbourhood.
was established in 1818, for the purpose of affording to sailors, journeymen, and others, especially to the females of Lowestoft and its vicinity, a secure place where they may deposit the small savings they may be able to make from their wages; which deposits are repaid with interest at £2 18s. 10d. per centum per annum, agreeably to certain rules.
The office for this Institution is kept at the town chamber in the town hall, and is open every Wednesday from twelve till one o’clock. Mr. T. Bird is the clerk.
was established in June 1843, for the following purposes—first, the diffusion of useful knowledge;secondly, the promotion amongst the inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood, of that harmony and good feeling which ought to exist among all men.
The means used for attaining these objects are—a library for circulation; the delivery of lectures on literary and scientific subjects; and the adoption of such other means as, from time to time, are deemed expedient by the committee of management. The library is increasing both in the number and value of its books. The subscription is one shilling per quarter. S. S. Brame, Esq., is the President of the Institution.
Annually a Bazaar is held in the bath rooms, to which the ladies in the neighbourhood contributeprincipally articles of their own manufacture. The proceeds of the sale are usually divided between the Church schools and the Infirmary funds.
During the summer evenings the denes usually present a very lively appearance; the members of the several cricket clubs are practising, not only for their own amusement, but that they may be prepared to meet other gentlemen who, residing in the neighbouring towns, cherish a friendly rivalry in the art of bat and ball.
the satirist, who flourished in the reign of Elizabeth, was born at Lowestoft. He wrote a play called “Lenton Stuffe; or, the Praise of the Red Herring,” published in 1599, in quarto; he was also “the author of a slight dramatic piece, mostly in blank verse, but partly in prose, and having also some lyrical poetry interspersed, called ‘Summers’ Last Will and Testament,’ which was exhibited before Queen Elizabeth at Norwich, in 1592; and healso assisted Marlow, in his tragedy of ‘Dido, Queen of Carthage,’ which, although not printed till 1594, is supposed to have been written before 1590. But his satire was of a higher order than his dramatic talent. There never was, perhaps, poured forth such a rushing and roaring torrent of wit, ridicule, and invective, as in the rapid succession of pamphlets which he published in the year 1589, against the Puritans and their famous champion (or rather knot of champions) who bore the name of Martin Mar-Prelate; unless in those in which he began, two years after, to assail poor Gabriel Harvey, his persecution of, and controversy with whom, lasted a much longer time, till, indeed, the Archbishop of Canterbury (Whitgift) interfered, in 1597, to restore the peace of the realm, by an order that all Harvey’s and Nash’s books should be taken wherever they might be found, ‘and that none of the said books be ever printed hereafter.’”[62]
The neighbourhood of Lowestoft is by no means destitute of attractions, and, in its vicinity, visiters may enjoy many pleasant rides and rambles.
To the north is Gunton, with its neat little church and churchyard, the pleasantest approach to which is by the first lane leading out from the road which skirts the common on the west. The church has been repaired and refitted under the direction of the Rev. F. C. Fowler, the present Incumbent; a fine specimen of the Norman doorway, on the north side, deserves notice.
In the vicinity of the church are the remains of Gunton Old Hall, now much altered and improved; at a short distance from which, is the new Hall, the residence of R. C. Fowler, Esq. On leaving the churchyard, a road to the right will conduct the pedestrian to the turnpike road again.
If, instead of turning off in the direction of Gunton, the rambler should pursue the road on the west of the common, he will be struck with the beauty of the new marine abode of Holland Birkett, Esq., a little beyond which, is the residence of the Rev. F. C. Fowler, both delightfully situated on the edge of the cliff. The architecture of the former is a combination of the Swiss and Elizabethan styles. The garden and grounds are tastefully laid out, and will amply repay the stranger for a visit.
Further north is the village of Corton, the church of which is a ruin; public worship is, however, performed in a portion of it, which has been fitted up for that purpose. The tower is ninety feet high. To the west are the Corton Cliffs, which present a commanding view of the ocean and its shipping, of which latter there is usually a plentiful supply.
On return, the sandy beach and the rabbit warren under the cliff, offer a choice of walks; if the latter be chosen, it will lead past the Warren house, along a path as pleasant as any in the neighbourhood, and eventually bring the traveller out near the upper light-house.
The village of Blundeston lies to the west of the Yarmouth road; here are seen the house belongingto J. Chapman, Esq., and Blundeston House, the delightful residence of Charles Steward, Esq., which, with its grounds, was once the property of the Rev. Norton Nicholls, and a place admired and frequently visited by the poet Gray. The church at Blundeston is an old Norman erection with a circular tower; its roof has been lately covered with flakes of stone, about half or three-quarters of an inch in thickness; and its principal internal decoration, is a fragment of a screen on which is represented the story of St. Peter and the Angel.
Not far from Blundeston Church, to the south, Thomas Morse, Esq., has erected a substantial house in one of the most delightful situations the country affords.
From Blundeston the visiter may approach Somerleyton. Here, the principal object of interest is the Hall, the seat of S. M. Peto, Esq., M.P. It stands in a park of no very great extent, but well planted, possessing a stately avenue of lime trees which, in summer are surpassingly beautiful. Fuller in his Worthies, vol. ii. uses these words, “Sommerley Hall, nigh Yarmouth, well answering the name thereof: for here sommer is to be seen in the depth of winter, in the pleasant walks beset on both sides withfirr trees, green all the year long; besides other curiosities.” This Hall was the seat of Sir John Wentworth during the civil wars; his name and place of abode occur in the histories of that period. Mr. Peto has made very extensive alterations and improvements both in the house and grounds; he has also erected a neat and commodious Chapel and a Gothic School room in this parish.
The mere, called “the wicker well,” belonging to Cammant Money, Esq., is a small lake in this parish; its banks are fringed with shrubs interwoven with tall and graceful trees, producing on the whole a very pleasing effect.
At no great distance from Somerleyton is Herringfleet, the Church of which is an interesting structure, unquestionably Norman.
St. Olave’s in Herringfleet was formerly a priory of black canons, founded by Roger Fitz-Ozbert, of Sommerley, to the honor of St. Mary, and St. Olave the king and the martyr, in the beginning of the reign of Henry III. The remains of this priory were chiefly taken down in 1784, but some parts of it are still left near the bridge, which superseded a ferry that existed here at a very remote period, which “before the reign of Edward I., was kept by oneSireck, a fisherman, who received for his trouble, bread, herrings, and such like things, to the value of twenty shillings a year;” it descended to several generations of the family. In the reign of Henry V. permission was given to Jeffery Pollerin of Yarmouth, to build a bridge ‘over the water between Norfolk and Suffolk,’ which, however, was not built. The old bridge and causeway over Haddiscoe dam were constructed in the reign of Henry VII., at the sole expense of Dame Margaret, the wife of Sir James Hobart: this bridge was repaired about the year 1770, but was steep, narrow, and obstructive to the navigation of the river: it has lately given place to a beautifully designed Iron Bow Suspension Bridge, of curious mechanism, which is in every sense an ornament to the neighbourhood.
In Herringfleet on the road to Somerleyton, the Misses Leathes have erected a beautiful Villa, of which Messrs. Lucas and Son were the builders.
The visiter may enjoy a pleasant ride through Blundeston, Lound, and Belton; he will then arrive at Burgh Castle, the Garianonum of the Romans.
N.E. View of Burgh Castle, Suffolk
“In the construction of this camp, the Romans pursued their usual method of security in building,and practised their favourite military architecture. It formed an irregular parallelogram, the parallel sides of which were equally right lines, and equally long, but the corners were rounded. Those camps which were one third longer than they were broad, were esteemed the most beautiful; but here the proportion is as two to one.“The principal wall of this station, in which is placed the Porta Prætoria, is that to the east, 14 feet high, 214 yards long, and 9 feet broad; the north and southern walls are just the same height and breadth, and just half the length; the western side has no remains of any wall, nor can we determine, with certainty, whether it ever had any; the sea might, possibly, be considered as a sufficient barrier on that side, and the steepness of the hill, as a collateral security. Four massive round towers defend the eastern wall; the northern has one; and another, now thrown down, stood opposite on the southern. These towers were added after building the walls, and served not only to ornament and strengthen them, but as turres exploratorii; each having on the top a round hole two feet deep, and as many in diameter, evidently designed both for the erection of standards and signals, and for theadmission of light temporary watch-towers, under the care, and for the use of the speculatores. The south-west corner of the station forms the pretorium, raised by the earth taken out of a vallum which surrounds and secures it, and which is sunk eight feet lower than the common surface of the area. Near this was placed the south tower, which being undermined some years since, by the force of the water running down the vallum after some very heavy rains, is fallen on one side near its former situation, but remains perfectly entire. The north tower having met with a similar accident, is reclined from the wall at the top about six feet, has drawn a part of it, and caused a breach near it. The whole area of the station contains four acres and two roods; and including the walls, five acres, two roods, and twenty perches.“The mortar made use of by the Romans in this work, was composed of lime and sand, unrefined by the sieve, and incorporated with common gravel and pebbles. It was used two different ways; one cold, in the common manner now in use; the other, rendered fluid by fire and applied boiling hot. From the artful mixture of both in the same building, and from the coarse materials of the composition, thiscement is extremely hard and durable, very difficult to break, and for several days indissoluble in water. The Romans, raising the wall to a convenient height with the former sort, at the end of every day’s work poured the latter upon it: which immediately filled up the interstices, and when cold, proved a most powerful adhesive. The Roman bricks made use of at Burgh are of a fine red colour and very close texture; they are about one foot and a half long, one foot broad, and an inch and an half thick. It does not, however, appear that the Romans had any exact standard for the size of their bricks: in different stations their dimensions are considerably varied. We ought, however, to observe, that either in the choice of their materials, or in their method of preparing them, they far excel those of later days, being much harder and less porous than ours; and for durableness, more resembling stone, for which they were, undoubtedly, substituted.”
“In the construction of this camp, the Romans pursued their usual method of security in building,and practised their favourite military architecture. It formed an irregular parallelogram, the parallel sides of which were equally right lines, and equally long, but the corners were rounded. Those camps which were one third longer than they were broad, were esteemed the most beautiful; but here the proportion is as two to one.
“The principal wall of this station, in which is placed the Porta Prætoria, is that to the east, 14 feet high, 214 yards long, and 9 feet broad; the north and southern walls are just the same height and breadth, and just half the length; the western side has no remains of any wall, nor can we determine, with certainty, whether it ever had any; the sea might, possibly, be considered as a sufficient barrier on that side, and the steepness of the hill, as a collateral security. Four massive round towers defend the eastern wall; the northern has one; and another, now thrown down, stood opposite on the southern. These towers were added after building the walls, and served not only to ornament and strengthen them, but as turres exploratorii; each having on the top a round hole two feet deep, and as many in diameter, evidently designed both for the erection of standards and signals, and for theadmission of light temporary watch-towers, under the care, and for the use of the speculatores. The south-west corner of the station forms the pretorium, raised by the earth taken out of a vallum which surrounds and secures it, and which is sunk eight feet lower than the common surface of the area. Near this was placed the south tower, which being undermined some years since, by the force of the water running down the vallum after some very heavy rains, is fallen on one side near its former situation, but remains perfectly entire. The north tower having met with a similar accident, is reclined from the wall at the top about six feet, has drawn a part of it, and caused a breach near it. The whole area of the station contains four acres and two roods; and including the walls, five acres, two roods, and twenty perches.
“The mortar made use of by the Romans in this work, was composed of lime and sand, unrefined by the sieve, and incorporated with common gravel and pebbles. It was used two different ways; one cold, in the common manner now in use; the other, rendered fluid by fire and applied boiling hot. From the artful mixture of both in the same building, and from the coarse materials of the composition, thiscement is extremely hard and durable, very difficult to break, and for several days indissoluble in water. The Romans, raising the wall to a convenient height with the former sort, at the end of every day’s work poured the latter upon it: which immediately filled up the interstices, and when cold, proved a most powerful adhesive. The Roman bricks made use of at Burgh are of a fine red colour and very close texture; they are about one foot and a half long, one foot broad, and an inch and an half thick. It does not, however, appear that the Romans had any exact standard for the size of their bricks: in different stations their dimensions are considerably varied. We ought, however, to observe, that either in the choice of their materials, or in their method of preparing them, they far excel those of later days, being much harder and less porous than ours; and for durableness, more resembling stone, for which they were, undoubtedly, substituted.”
Again starting from Lowestoft by the western outlet, passing the church, and keeping to the right, along the road leading to St. Olave’s bridge, Oulton High House will be presented to notice, an old manor house, some of the internal decorations ofwhich are highly wrought and valuable: it dates from the days of Elizabeth. Between this and the church, which lies to the westward, is the Rectory, which has been recently built, the abode of the Rev. C. H. Cox.
The church is a curious structure, having its tower in the centre: but the objects of greatest interest are within. In the centre of the chancel floor lies the full-sized effigy of an ecclesiastic, habited in the gorgeous sacerdotal vestments of the Roman church; this is Sire Adam Bacon, presbyter. Ives supposes this to be the oldest and most magnificent sepulchral brass, placed to an ecclesiastic, now remaining in England.
On a large stone near the chancel door are the effigies of John Fastolf, Esq., and Katherine his wife, which were placed there in 1479. Gillingwater, page 275, discovers a relationship between these Fastolfs and the redoubtable Knight of the “Merry wives of Windsor,” and “Henry IV.”
Close to the church is the Hall, now the property of George Borrow, Esq., whose pleasant and retired residence is a little to the right of it, overlooking the Oulton Broad.
On the road from Oulton church to Lowestoft is the house of E. Leathes, Esq., at Normanstone, which has a fine view of the Railway and Lake Lothing, with the parish of Kirtley in the distance.
The road to Beccles—though in some parts of it pleasing—is less attractive than others in the neighbourhood, in consequence of the marshes on one side of it; but midway between Lowestoft and Beccles is Cove Hall, the residence of William Everitt, Esq. and nearer Beccles is the beautiful seat of the Earl of Gosford, with its park and grounds. The town of Beccles and its neighbourhood present several attractions—its fine old church with its detached tower; its nursery grounds and several gentlemen’s seats; not to mention other objects worthy of notice, will all repay examination.
To the south of the harbour, and through Kirtley, is the village of Pakefield, which may be approached either by the sea-side, or by the turnpike road. The church has a double nave and is neat and carefully preserved. The font and several brasses deserve attention. Beyond Pakefield is Kessingland, andbetween the two villages, on the beach, is a neat and new Light-house: the walk along the cliff here is very pleasant; several coins and other curiosities have been found at different times, specimens of which may be obtained of an old man who lives close by.
Through Kessingland lies Covehithe; the ruins of its church covered with ivy, and venerable in its decay, are thus described by Davy in his architectural antiquities. “These splendid ruins attest the former wealth and populousness of a place, which now ranks among the poorest and meanest parishes in the county. All the ancient part of this once stately pile is now in complete decay; but divine service is performed in a small edifice erected within the nave of the old one, though it does not occupy one half of it. This, as appears from an inscription on a stone in the north wall, was completed in the year 1672. The three grand arches at the east, still retain their position, though much mutilated, and, for magnitude and form, may vie with the noblest specimens of the kind in the county. The tower, which appears of a more ancient date than the rest of the ruined fabric, still remains as a landmark for travellers.”
Miss Agnes Strickland, who resides at Reydon hall, not many miles distant, has thus sung the melancholy fate of Covehithe:—
“On gray Covehithe mild eve has castA soft and mellow ray;But o’er its glories time has pass’dWith dark destroying sway.“All roofless now, the stately pile,And rent, the arches tall,Through which, with bright departing smile,The western sunbeams fall.“The ivy wreaths unheeded twineIn wild profusion there,And oft with summer flowers combineTo crown the oriel fair.“The choir is hush’d, and silent nowThe organ’s thrilling sigh;Yet swells at eve, from many a bough,The linnet’s lullaby.“The grass-grown aisle all green and lone,No musing footsteps tread;And even o’er the altar stoneThe mantling brambles spread.“Tradition’s voice forgets to tellWhose ashes sleep below,And fancy here unchecked may swellAnd bid the story flow.”
“On gray Covehithe mild eve has castA soft and mellow ray;But o’er its glories time has pass’dWith dark destroying sway.
“All roofless now, the stately pile,And rent, the arches tall,Through which, with bright departing smile,The western sunbeams fall.
“The ivy wreaths unheeded twineIn wild profusion there,And oft with summer flowers combineTo crown the oriel fair.
“The choir is hush’d, and silent nowThe organ’s thrilling sigh;Yet swells at eve, from many a bough,The linnet’s lullaby.
“The grass-grown aisle all green and lone,No musing footsteps tread;And even o’er the altar stoneThe mantling brambles spread.
“Tradition’s voice forgets to tellWhose ashes sleep below,And fancy here unchecked may swellAnd bid the story flow.”
But we are trenching now upon the proper domain of Southwold, which is a pleasant watering place beyond Covehithe, to which, if the visiter should wish to rove, we advise that, on his return, he should take the road to Wrentham, thence proceed along the turnpike road past Benacre Hall, the seat of Sir T. S. Gooch, and so through Kessingland to Lowestoft again.
We have now performed our task, and heartily wish our readers health and happiness through the season, in the enjoyment of which they cannot fail to appreciate the pleasures afforded by the works of Him whose is the sea, for he made it; whose hand also fashioned the dry land.
THE END.
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[14]For a very minute account of this strife, and for the merits of the case, see Gillingwater’s Historyin loco.
[16]Suckling has asserted that this was a piece of Cromwell’s “usual duplicity.” The reader is referred to “Cromwell’s Letters and Speeches” edited by Thomas Carlyle, for a splendid refutation of the ungenerous calumny.
[26]Names of the persons who composed the crew of the “Frances Ann” Life-boat:—Lieut. T. S. Carter, R.N.; H. B. Disney, James Stebbens, James Titlow, pilots; Thomas Aldiss, Henry Smith, Thomas Butcher, William Hook, William Gurney, James Taylor, John Browne, William Francis, Robert Chaston, Edmund Boyce, Thomas Humsley, Nathaniel Killwick, James Robinson, and William Butcher.
[27]The persons who composed the crew of the Life-boat were, Henry Beverley Disney, Henry May, David Burwood, James Cullingham, pilots; Cornelius Ferrett, William Ayers, Samuel Spurden, John Spurden, Robert Watson, James Websdale, Samuel Butcher, Batholomew Allerton, James Farrer, Peter Smith, George Burwood, Matthew Colman, Edward Ellis, and James Stebbens.
[29]This poor man was a teetotaller, and although left on the wreck some hours longer than the rest, when brought on shore was found to be less exhausted than they.
[48]Edinburgh Review, Jan. 1840.
[50]The interest of £1000 is left to keep this tomb in repair; the surplus is given to the poor.
[56]This is the orthodox time; we believe the merchants now perform the whole process in a much shorter period.
[62]Craik’s Sketches of the History of Learning and Literature in England.