Fig. 89. Inarching.
Fig. 89. Inarching.
1. Common Resin and Beeswax Waxes.
1. Resin, 4 parts by weight; beeswax, 2 parts; tallow, 1 part.
2. Resin, 4 lbs.; beeswax, 1 lb.; tallow, 1 lb.
3. Resin, 6 lbs.; beeswax, 2 lbs.; linseed oil, 1 pt.
4. Resin, 6 lbs.; beeswax, 1 lb.; linseed oil, 1 pt.; apply hot with a brush, one-eighth of an inch thick over all the joints.
5. Resin, 4 lbs.; beeswax, 1 lb.; and from half to a pint of raw linseed oil; melt all together gradually, and turn into water and pull. The linseed oil should be entirely free from cotton-seed oil. For use in warm weather.
6. Resin, 6 parts; beeswax, 1 part; tallow, 1 part. To be used warm, in the house.
7. Resin, 4 or 5 parts; beeswax, 1½ to 2 parts; linseed oil, 1 to 1½ parts. For out-door work.
2. Alcoholic Waxes.
8. Lefort’s Liquid Grafting Wax, or Alcoholic Plastic.—Best white resin, 1 lb.; beef tallow, 1 oz.; remove from the fire and add 8 ozs. of alcohol. Keep in closed bottles or cans.
9. Alcoholic Plastic with Beeswax.—Melt 6 parts white resin with 1 part beeswax; remove from stove and partially cool by stirring, then add gradually—with continued stirring—enough alcohol to make the mixture, when cool, of the consistency of porridge. In the temperature of the grafting-room it will remain sufficiently plastic to permit applying to the cut surfaces with the finger.
10. Alcoholic Plastic with Turpentine.—Best white resin, 1 lb.; beef tallow, 1 oz.; turpentine, 1 teaspoonful; add enough alcohol (13 to 15 fluid ozs. of 95 per cent. alcohol) to make the wax of the consistency of honey. Or, less alcohol may be added if the wax is to be used with the fingers.
3. French and Pitch Waxes.
11. Common French.—Pitch, ½ lb.; beeswax, ½ lb.; cow-dung, 1 lb. Boil together, melt and apply with a brush.
12. Common French Bandage Wax.—Equal parts of beeswax, turpentine and resin. While warm spread on strips of coarse cotton or strong paper.
13. Grafting Clay.—⅓ cow-dung, free from straw, and ⅔ clay, or clayey loam, with a little hair, like that used in plaster, to prevent its cracking. Beat and temper it for two or three days until it is thoroughly incorporated. When used it should be of such a consistency as to be easily put on and shaped with the hands.
14. Resin, 2 lbs. 12 ozs.; Burgundy pitch, 1 lb. 11 ozs. At the same time, melt 9 ozs. of tallow; pour the latter into the former, while both are hot, and stir the mixture thoroughly.Then add 18 ozs. of red ochre, dropping it in gradually and stirring the mixture at the same time.
15. Black pitch, 28 parts; Burgundy pitch, 28 parts; beeswax, 16 parts; grease, 14 parts; yellow ochre, 14 parts.
16. Black pitch, 28 lbs.; Burgundy pitch, 28 lbs.; yellow wax, 16 lbs.; suet or tallow, 14 lbs.; sifted ashes, 14 lbs. When used, warm sufficiently to make it liquid, without being so hot as to injure the texture of the branches.
17. Melt together 1¼ lb. of clear resin and ¾ lb. of white pitch. At the same time melt ¼ lb. of tallow. Pour the melted tallow into the first mixture, and stir vigorously. Then before the stuff cools add, slowly stirring meantime, ½ lb. of Venetian red. This may be used warm or cold.
4. Waxed String and Bandage.
18. Waxed String for Root-grafting.—Into a kettle of melted wax place balls of No. 18 knitting cotton. Turn the balls frequently, and in five minutes they will be thoroughly saturated, when they are dried and put away for future use. This material is strong enough, and at the same time breaks so easily as not to injure the hands. Any of the resin and beeswax waxes may be used. When the string is used, it should be warm enough to stick without tying.
19. Waxed Cloth.—Old calico or thin muslin is rolled on a stick and placed in melted wax. When saturated it is allowed to cool by being unrolled on a bench. It is then cut in strips to suit. Or the wax may be spread upon the cloth with a brush.
5. Waxes for Wounds.
20. Any of the more adhesive grafting waxes are excellent for dressing wounds, although most of them cleave off after the first year. Stiff and ochreous paints are also good.
21. Coal-tar.—Apply a coating of coal-tar to the wound, which has first been pared and smoothed. If the wound contains a hole, plug it with seasoned wood.
22. Hoskins' Wax.—Boil pine tar slowly for three or four hours; add ½ lb. of beeswax to a quart of the tar. Haveready some dry and finely sifted clay, and when the mixture of tar and wax is partially cold, stir into the above named quantity about 12 ozs. of the clay; continue the stirring until the mixture is so stiff, and so nearly cool, that the clay will not settle. This is soft enough in mild weather to be easily applied with a knife or spatula.
23. Schæfell’s Healing Paint.—Boil linseed oil (free from cotton-seed oil) one hour, with an oz. of litharge to each pt. of oil; then stir in sifted wood ashes until the paint is of the proper consistency. Pare the bark until smooth. Paint the wound over in dry weather, and if the wound is very large, cover with a gunny-sack.
24. Tar for Bleeding in Vines.—Add to tar about 3 or 4 times its weight of powdered slate or some similar substance. Apply with an old knife or flat stick.
25. Hot Iron for Bleeding in Vines.—Apply a hot iron to the bare surface until it is charred, and then rub into the charred surface a paste made of newly-burnt lime and grease.
26. Collodion for Bleeding in Vines.—It may be applied with a feather or small brush. In some extreme cases two or three coats will be needed, in which case allow the collodion to form a film before applying another coat. Pharmaceutical collodion is better than photographic.
CHAPTER VI.
THE NURSERY LIST.
Aaron’s Beard.SeeHypericum.
Aaron’s Rod.SeeVerbascum.
Abelia.Caprifoliaceæ.
In spring by layers under a frame, and in summer by cuttings.
Abies(Fir, Spruce).Coniferæ.
Propagated by seeds, which are usually kept dry over winter and sown in spring in frames or in protected borders. Cones should be fully matured before being gathered. If they hold the seeds tightly they should be placed in a dry place, sometimes even in an oven, until the scales spread. In order to obtain stocky plants, the seedlings should be transplanted the following spring. The named varieties and the species which do not produce sufficient seed are winter-worked upon seedling stocks which are potted from the seed-beds in the fall. One-year-old stocks are commonly used, but in some cases the requisite size is not reached until the second year. Any of the common operations of grafting may be employed. The conifers are not difficult to graft. The European silver fir (Abies pectinata) may be used as a stock, but the common Norway spruce is now the most popular stock for species of both Abies and Picea.
Abobra.Cucurbitaceæ.
Propagated by seeds, or rarely by soft cuttings.
Abroma.Sterculiaceæ.
By seeds sown in March. By cuttings made in spring from half-ripened wood, and placed under a bell-glass.
Abronia(Sand Verbena).Nyctaginaceæ.
Propagated by seeds sown in autumn or spring, after the outer skin has been peeled off. Sow in pots of sandy soil,and keep in a frame until the following spring; then place in their flowering quarters. By young cuttings, set in spring, in sandy soil.
Abrus.Leguminosæ.
Propagated by seeds raised in heat or by cuttings under a hand-glass, in sand.
Abuta.Menispermaceæ.
Propagated by cuttings planted in a pot of sand, with a hand-glass placed over them, in heat.
Abutilon.Malvaceæ.
Sow seeds in pans, with same soil and temperature as for cuttings. By cuttings from young wood, at almost any season; the best time, however, is spring or fall. Insert in pots, in a compost of equal parts peat, leaf-mould, loam and sand, and place in a temperature of 65° to 75°.
Acacia.Leguminosæ.
Propagate by seeds sown as soon as ripe, in sandy peat; about one-fourth inch deep, or a little more for large seeds. Soak in hot water 24 hours if seeds are not fresh. Keep temperature about 55° or 60° and pot off when large enough to handle. By cuttings of the half-ripened wood, put in with a heel, in equal parts peat and sand, covered with pure sand. Insert the cuttings as soon as made; water, and leave them in the shade till dry. Place under a bell-glass, shade and water to prevent flagging. Pot off when rooted and keep in a close pit or house until the plants are thoroughly established.A. pubescensand some others strike readily from root-cuttings.
Acæna.Rosaceæ.
Propagated by seeds, divisions, creeping rootlets and cuttings.
Acalypha.Euphorbiaceæ.
Propagated by cuttings in sandy soil under a glass, in stove heat, during late winter or in spring.
Acanthephippium.Orchideæ.
Propagated by dividing the pseudo-bulbs as soon as growth commences. (See underOrchids.)
Acantholimon.Plantagineæ.
Propagated by seeds sown carefully on a warm but rather shaded border; by very carefully made divisions; and bycuttings made in late summer and placed in frames to remain during the winter.
Acanthophœnix.Palmæ.
Propagated by seeds, sown in a moist bottom heat, in a well decomposed compost of one part loam, one of peat, one of leaf-mould, and one of sand.
Acanthorhiza.Palmæ.
Propagated by seeds in a moist hot-bed in spring.
Acanthostachyum.Bromeliaceæ.
Propagated by suckers, which strike readily in bottom heat.
Acanthus(Bear’s Breech).Acanthaceæ.
Propagated by seeds sown in gentle heat, or by division of the root in autumn or early spring. Also by root-cuttings. Water carefully.
Acer(Maple).Sapindaceæ.
Stocks are grown from stratified seeds, which should be sown an inch or two deep. Some species, asA. dasycarpum, come readily if seeds are simply sown as soon as ripe. Varieties are often layered, but better plants are obtained by grafting. The Japanese sorts are winter-worked on importedA. polymorphumstocks, either by whip or veneer grafting. Varieties of native species are worked upon common native stocks. Maples can also be budded in summer, and they grow from cuttings of soft and ripe wood.
Aceras.Orchideæ.
Propagated by carefully made divisions of the tubers. (See underOrchids.)
Aceratium.Tiliaceæ.
Propagated by ripe cuttings, which root readily in sand, in heat, under a hand-glass.
Achania.SeeMalvaviscus.
Achillea.Including Ptarmica (Milfoil),Compositæ.
Propagated by seeds, root divisions and cuttings, during spring.
Achimenes, including Scheeria.Gesneraceæ.
Propagated by seeds, carefully sown in well-drained pans, which are filled nearly to the rim, levelled, and well watered with a fine rose. Sow seed and cover lightly with sand, andplace in shady position. Keep moist and apply water very lightly. Place a sheet of glass over the seed-pan. After large enough to be pricked off, treat like rooted cuttings. The best time for all modes of grafting is early spring. By scales from the corms, carefully rubbed off and sown like seeds, in pots or pans of the same compost, barely covered with sand, and placed in bottom heat. By leaves, severed from the stems, and pricked into pots of similar soil to the cuttings, placing all the petiole below the surface, and placed in bottom heat. By cuttings from any portion of the stem; insert in a soil of equal parts of peat and sand, in well-drained pots, and place in bottom heat.
Achras.SeeSapota.
Achyranthes.SeeIresine.
Achyronia.SeePriestleya.
Aciphylla.Umbelliferæ.
Propagated in spring by seeds or divisions.
Acis.SeeLeucoium.
Acisanthera.Melastomaceæ.
Increased by cuttings, which root freely in a mixture of loam, sand and peat, in stove temperature.
Acmadenia.Rutaceæ.
Increased by cuttings pricked in a pot of very sandy soil, covered with a bell-glass.
Acmena.Myrtaceæ.
Propagated by placing half-ripened cuttings in sand under a glass without heat.
Aconitum(Aconite, Monk’s Hood, Wolf’s Bane).Ranunculaceæ.
Seeds should be sown as soon as ripe in a cold-frame or border; also by division. Roots should not be left about, for they are very poisonous.
Acontias.SeeXanthosoma.
Acorns.SeeQuercus.
Acorus.Aroideæ.
Propagated during spring by divisions.
Acradenia.Rutaceæ.
Propagated by seeds and cuttings under a bell-glass.
Acridocarpus.Malpighiaceæ.
Propagated by imported seeds, and by cuttings in bottom heat.
Acrocomia.Palmæ.
Propagated by suckers.
Acronychia.Rutaceæ.
Propagated in July by cuttings inserted in sand, under a bell-glass.
Acrophyllum.Cunoniaceæ.
Increased by cuttings of the half-ripened shoots which strike freely in a soil of sand and peat; cover with a hand-glass, and place in a cool house. The roots should be kept moist.
Acrostichum.SeeFerns.
Acrotriche.Epacridaceæ.
Propagated by cuttings made of young shoots, pricked in sand, covered with a bell-glass, and placed in a cool house; afterwards treated like Epacris.
Actæa(Baneberry).Ranunculaceæ.
Propagated by seed and by division of root during spring.
Actinella, Picradenin.Compositæ.
Propagated in spring by divisions.
Actinidia.Ternstrœmiaceæ.
Propagated by seeds, layers or cuttings. The cuttings should be put in sandy soil, in autumn, under a hand-light.
Actinocarpus.Alismaceæ.
Propagated by seeds and divisions during spring.
Actinomeris, Pterophyton.Compositæ.
Increased in spring, by seeds and division. Use a warm border, with or without hand-lights, or a cold-frame.
Actinophyllum.SeeSciadophyllum.
Actinotus.Umbelliferæ.
Increased by seeds sown on a hotbed in spring, and in May the seedlings may be transplanted to the open border in a warm situation, where they will flower and seed freely. Divisions of the roots grow readily.
Acyntha.SeeSanseviera.
Ada.Orchideæ.
Propagated by divisions as soon as the plant commences growth. (See underOrchids.)
Adamia.Saxifrageæ.
Increased by seeds; by cuttings, which will root readily in a compost of loam, peat and sand, under a hand-glass.
Adamsia.SeePuschkinia.
Adam’s Needle.SeeYucca.
Adenandra.Rutaceæ.
Increased by cuttings made from the young tops, before they begin to throw out their buds, planted in a pot of sand, with a bell-glass or frame placed over them.
Adenanthera.Leguminosæ.
Increased by cuttings taken off with a heel and planted in a pot of sand in heat, placing a bell-glass over them.
Adenanthos.Proteaceæ.
Propagated by cuttings, in spring, placed in sandy soil, under a bell-glass, with gentle bottom heat.
Adenilenia.SeeNeillia.
Adenium.Apocynaceæ.
Increased by half-ripened cuttings, which strike root well in sand, under a hand-glass.
Adenocalymna.Bignoniaceæ.
Propagated by cuttings, which will root in sand, under a bell-glass, with bottom heat.
Adenocarpus.Leguminosæ.
Seeds may be sown in March, the hardy species out-doors, and the others in a cold house. Young cuttings root freely in sand, covered with a hand-glass.
Adenophora.Campanulaceæ.
Propagated by seeds, sown as soon as ripe, in pots placed in cold-frames. Also by suckers.
Adenostoma.Rosaceæ.
Propagated by cuttings of the young shoots, placed in sand, under glass, in spring or autumn.
Adenotrichia.SeeSenecio.
Adesmia.Leguminosæ.
Seeds. Cuttings should be placed in sand, covered by a hand-glass, in a gentle heat.
Adhatoda.SeeJusticia.
Adiantum.SeeFerns.
Adike.SeePilea.
Adina.Rubiaceæ.
Propagated by cuttings placed in rich, loamy soil, under a hand-glass, in heat.
Adlumia(Mountain Fringe).Fumariaceæ.
Propagated by seeds. The plant is a biennial, blooming the second season only.
Adonis.Ranunculaceæ.
Propagated by seeds. The perennials may be divided at the root.
Ægiphila.Verbenaceæ.
Propagated by cuttings, which will root in sand, under a glass, with bottom heat.
Ægle(Bengal Quince).Rutaceæ.
Propagated by ripe cuttings, which will root in sand under a hand-glass, in heat, if not deprived of any of their leaves.
Æolanthus.Labiatæ.
Increased by seeds.
Æonium.SeeSempervivum.
Ærides.Orchideæ.
The only method of propagating this genus is by removing the upper portion and planting it separately. It should always be severed low enough to include a few roots, otherwise a large proportion of leaves will be lost. A somewhat dense shade, a moist atmosphere and careful watering are essential until the young plant is established. The old stool will soon send out lateral growths, which, in time, may be separated and treated similarly. Vanda, Saccolabium, Angræcum, Renanthera are increased in the same way. (See underOrchids.)
Æschynanthus.Gesneraceæ.
Propagated by seeds, which are very unsatisfactory. By cuttings, which root freely in a well-drained pot, filled witha light compost, and having a surface of pure white sand, about one inch deep, during spring. The best are obtained from half-ripened wood, cut into two or three inch lengths, and all leaves, with the exception of one or two at the top, removed. Cover the cuttings with a bell-glass, and place in moderate bottom heat. When rooted, transfer singly to small pots, place under hand-glasses, until thoroughly established, then gradually harden off.
Æschynomene.Leguminosæ.
Propagated seeds, those of the herbaceous species requiring a good heat to start them into growth. By cuttings, placed in sand under a bell-glass, in a brisk heat.
Æsculus(Horse Chestnut, Buckeye).Sapindaceæ.
Propagated by stratified seeds sown in single rows in spring, and by layers made in the spring or fall; or by grafting or budding on the common horse chestnut or native buckeyes, usually under glass.
Æthionema.Cruciferæ.
Propagated by seeds sown in May, and by cuttings planted in summer.
Agalmyla.Gesneraceæ.
Propagated by half-ripened cuttings, in heat under glass.
Aganisia.Orchideæ.
Propagated by dividing the pseudo-bulbs just before starting into new growth. (See underOrchids.)
Aganosma.Apocynaceæ.
Propagated by cuttings in sand, under glass, with bottom heat.
Agapanthus(African Lily).Liliaceæ.
Propagated by offsets, or by divisions of the old plants in early spring.
Agapetes.Vacciniaceæ.
Increased by young hardened cuttings, in sandy soil, under a hand-glass, in high temperature.
Agaricus.SeeMushroom.
Agastachys.Proteaceæ.
Propagated by cuttings of ripened wood, in sandy soil under a glass, in a cool house.
Agathæa.Compositæ.
Seeds and layers. Young cuttings root freely, in a gentle heat, at all times.
Agathomeris.SeeHumea.
Agathosma(Bucco, Dichosma).Rutaceæ.
Increased by cuttings, which, when young, root freely in a pot of sand, under a bell-glass, in a cool house. They require to be shaded somewhat in the summer.
Agathotes.SeeSwertia.
Agati.Leguminosæ.
Increased by cuttings, which will root in a pot of sand with a hand-glass over them, placed in heat.
Agave.Amaryllideæ.
Increased by seeds, to secure the production of which the flowers should be pollinated. Usually by suckers which spring naturally from the old plant.
Ageratum,Cælestina.Compositæ.
Sow the seeds in January, in heat, in sandy soil. When large enough, prick them off into thumb pots, and keep in heat till they grow freely, then place them in a cooler house. Cuttings are commonly used for propagation.
Aglaia.Meliaceæ.
Propagated by cuttings ripened at the base, and taken off at a joint. They will root in sand under a hand-glass in heat.
Agrimonia.Rosaceæ.
Propagated by root-division.
Agrostemma(Rose Campion).Caryophylleæ.
Propagated by seeds and by division.
Agrostis(Bent Grass).Gramineæ.
Increased easily by seeds, sown in spring in the open border.
Ailanthus(Tree of Heaven).Xanthoxylaceæ.
Propagated by suckers; and by pieces of the roots and planted in a pot with their points above the ground, and placed in a hot-bed. Also by stem-cuttings. Seeds are used when large quantities are desired.
Ainslæa.Compositæ.
Propagated by divisions of the root.
Aitonia.Meliaceæ.
Increased by cuttings, which must not be put in very close together; they will root in sand, under a bell-glass, with bottom heat.
Aizoon.Portulacaceæ.
Propagated by seeds and cuttings.
Ajax.SeeNarcissus.
Ajuga(Bugle).Labiatæ.
Perennials propagated by seeds sown in the open border, during spring or autumn; by divisions. Annuals by seeds.
Akebia, Rajania.Berberideæ.
Seeds. Layers of young or ripe wood. Dormant cuttings in bottom heat, and under glass in summer.
Alangium.Alangiaceæ.
Increased by cuttings, which root readily if planted in a pot of sand, with a hand-glass over them, in heat.
Albuca.Liliaceæ.
Propagated by seeds and by offsets (bulbels) from the old bulb.
Alcanna.SeeLawsonia.
Alchemilla(Lady’s Mantle).Rosaceæ.
Propagated by seeds or by divisions of the root.
Aldea.SeePhacelia.
Aletris.SeeTritonia
Aleurites.Euphorbiaceæ.
Propagated by ripe cuttings in sand, under a hand-glass. Do not remove leaves.
Alexandrian Laurel.SeeRuscus.
Algaroba Bean.SeeCeratonia.
Alhagi(Manna Tree).Leguminosæ.
Increased by seeds sown in a hot-bed; and by cuttings rooted in sand, with a bell-glass over them, in heat.
Alibertia.Cinchonaceæ.
Increased by cuttings, which root freely in a mixture of loam and peat, under a hand-glass, in heat.
Alisma, Actinocarpus (Water Plantain).Alismaceæ.
Increased by seeds, which should be sown in a pot immersed in water and filled with loam, peat and sand; also by divisions, which root well in a moist loamy soil.
Allamanda.Apocynaceæ.
Layers. Root-cuttings will root well at any time of the year in a bottom heat from 70° to 80.° The usual time is, however, in spring, when the old plants are pruned back. Choose the tops of the shoots, retaining two or three joints to each cutting. Place in a compost of sand, and peat or leaf-mould in equal proportions, singly, in pots, and plunge the pots in the propagating bed.
Allium, including Porrum, Schœnoprasum.Liliaceæ.
Increased by seeds sown thinly in light soil in early spring. By bulbels, planting them in autumn or spring one to four inches deep. (SeeOnion.)
Allosorus.SeeFerns.
Almeidea.Rutaceæ.
Increased by partly ripened cuttings, which will root in sand, under a hand-glass, in heat.
Almond(Prunus communis).Rosaceæ.
The almond is worked the same as the peach and apricot. Seedling almond stocks are best, but the peach is often used. Apricot stocks are sometimes employed, but they are not to be recommended.
Alnus(Alder Tree).Cupuliferæ.
Propagated usually by seeds, which are gathered in the fall and well dried. Then they are sprinkled lightly on the ground and covered very thinly. Towards the end of the year the seedlings are planted in rows one and one-half feet apart, and six inches from each other, where they may remain for two years, after which they can be placed where they are intended to stand. Planting is best done in October or April. They are also increased, but rarely, by suckers, by cuttings and by grafting.
Alocasia.Aroideæ.
Increased by seeds and divisions.
Aloe.Liliaceæ.
Commonly propagated by suckers which spring from the base of the plant. Seeds are sometimes employed.
Alomia.Compositæ.
Propagated by cuttings.
Alona.Nolanaceæ.
Increased by cuttings, which root freely in sandy loam, with a very gentle bottom heat.
Alonsoa.Scrophularineæ.
Propagated by seeds, sown in spring; also by cuttings in sandy soil, in gentle heat. The herbaceous species may be treated as out-door summer annuals, and should be raised in little heat, and planted out in May.
Aloysia(Sweet-scented Verbena, Lemon Verbena).Verbenaceæ.
Increased easily in spring by young wood. They will root in about three weeks, in sandy soil with gentle heat. Also by cuttings of ripened wood in autumn.
Alpinia.Zingiberaceæ.
Increased by division after the young shoots have made an inch of growth in spring.
Alsodeia.Violarieæ.
Propagated by cuttings, which root readily under a bell-glass, if planted in sand, in heat.
Alsophila.SeeFerns.
Alstonia.Apocynaceæ.
Propagated by cuttings rooted in sand, in heat.
Alstrœmeria.Amaryllideæ.
Increased by seeds. By a careful division of the fleshy roots, during fall or spring.
Alternanthera.Amarantaceæ.
Commonly raised from cuttings of growing wood. For spring and summer bedding, the plants are started in late winter. The stock-plants, from which cuttings are taken, are procured from cuttings made late in summer. Seeds are little used.
Althæa(Marsh-Mallow, Hollyhock).Malvaceæ.
Increased by seeds, and by divisions. The biennial species must be raised from seeds every year.
Alum Root.SeeHeuchera.
Alyssum, including Psilonema, Ptilotrichum, Schivereckia (Madwort).Cruciferæ.
Increased by seed sown in the open border or in pans of sandy soil. By divisions. By layers. By cuttings made from young shoots two to three inches in length, placed in sandy loam, early in the season, in a shady place.
Amaranthus.Amarantaceæ.
Propagated by seeds sown in hot-beds in spring, and thinned out when about one-half inch high. About the end of May, they can be transplanted out-doors in their permanent situation, or into pots.
Amaryllis.Amaryllideæ.
Propagated by seeds and offsets. Seedlings will bloom in from one to two years.
Amber Tree.SeeAnthospermum.
Amblyanthera.SeeMandevilla.
Ambrosinia.Aroideæ.
Increased by seeds sown as soon as ripe, in a cool house: and by divisions made just previous to new growth in spring.
Amelanchier.Rosaceæ.
Seeds. Layers and cuttings in autumn. By grafting, in early spring, on the Mountain Ash, Hawthorn or the Quince, or the weaker on the stronger-growing species. SeeJuneberry.
Amellus.Compositæ.
Increased by divisions; or by cuttings under glass in spring.
Amherstia.Leguminosæ.
Propagated by seeds; also by cuttings of the half-ripened wood inserted in sand under a glass, in bottom heat of about 80°.
Amianthemum.SeeZygadenus.
Amicia.Leguminosæ.
Propagated by cuttings, which will root in sand under a hand-glass, in heat.
Ammodendron.Leguminosæ.
Increased by seeds and layers.
Ammyrsine.SeeLeiophyllum.
Amomophyllum.Spathiphyllum.
Amorpha(Bastard Indigo).Leguminosæ.
Increased by seeds, usually. Layers or cuttings, taken off at the joint, strike readily if placed in a sheltered situation early in autumn. They should remain undisturbed till the following autumn.
Amorphophallus.Aroideæ.
Propagated by offsets, or cormels, and by seeds, which, however, are usually sparingly produced in cultivation.
Ampelopsis, Quinaria.Ampelideæ.
Increased by seeds, especially the one known asA. Veitchii. Layers or cuttings made in spring from the young soft wood, root freely in gentle heat. By cuttings having a good eye, if taken in September and pricked under hand-lights in sandy soil on the open border, or in pots. Hard wood cuttings are commonly employed in this country forA. quinquefolia.
Amphicarpæa.Leguminosæ.
Propagated by seeds, which should be sown in the open border, in spring, in a sunny place.
Amphicome.Bignoniaceæ.
Increased by seeds, sown in early spring, in pots of sandy soil placed in a greenhouse. By young shoots inserted in sandy soil in gentle heat in spring.
Amphilophium, Amphilobium.Bignoniaceæ.
Increased by cuttings from young shoots, which root readily in sand, under a hand-glass, with bottom heat, during the spring months.
Amsonia.Apocynaceæ.
Propagated by seeds; by divisions of the roots in spring; or by cuttings during the summer months.
Amygdalus.SeePrunus.
Amyris.Burseraceæ.
Increased by cuttings, which root readily in sand, under a hand-glass with bottom heat, during the spring months.
Anacampseros.Portulacaceæ.
Increased by seeds; by cuttings and leaves, taken off close to the plant. These should be laid to dry a few days before planting.
Anacardium(Cashew).Anacardiaceæ.
Ripened cuttings, with their leaves left on, root freely in sand under a hand-glass, in heat.
Anagallis(Pimpernel).Primulaceæ.
The annuals, by seeds sown in a warm place in spring; the perennials, by cuttings from young shoots, or by division, at any time, either under a hand-glass or in a closed frame. Keep in the shade, and when thoroughly established harden off gradually.
Anagyris.Leguminosæ.
Increased by cuttings, which should be planted in July in a pot of sand, and placed under a hand-glass.
Anamenia.SeeKnowltonia.
Ananas.SeePine-apple.
Anantherix.Asclepiadeæ.
Increased by seeds, which ripen in abundance, or by division of the root.
Anarrhinum.Scrophularineæ.
Propagated by seeds sown outside in the spring, or by growing cutting, but they require protection during severe winters.
Anastatica.Cruciferæ.
Increased by seeds sown in the spring in heat, and the plants afterwards potted off and plunged again in heat to hasten their growth.
Anchietea, Lucinæa, Noisettia.Violarieæ.
Propagated by young cuttings, which root freely in sand, under a bell-glass, in a moderate heat.
Anchomanes.Aroideæ.
Propagated by seeds and offsets.
Anchusa.Boragineæ.
Propagated by seeds, which should be sown in early spring in pots of sandy soil; they will germinate in three or four weeks. Also by divisions, rarely by cuttings.
Andersonia.Epacrideæ.
Propagated by cuttings from tips of young shoots. These should be made in autumn, winter or spring, and planted in sand in a gentle heat, with a bell-glass over them.
Andreusia.SeeMyoporum.
Androcymbium.Liliaceæ.
Increased by seeds and offsets.
Andromeda.Ericaceæ.
Propagated by seeds, sown thinly as soon as ripe, in pots or pans, in sandy peat soil. Place in a cool frame or greenhouse giving plenty of air. The young plants should be planted out in spring, if large enough, or pricked into boxes if small. By layers which, if carefully pegged down during September, will take twelve months to make sufficient roots to allow of their being separated; layerage is a common method.
Andropogon.Gramineæ.
Increased by seeds or by division of the roots.
Androsace, including Aretia.Primulaceæ.
Propagated by seeds, which should be sown as soon as possible, and raised in a frame; also by divisions and cuttings.
Androsæmum.SeeHypericum.
Androstephium.Liliaceæ.
Propagated by seeds and offsets. The seeds should be sown as soon as ripe in a cold-frame.
Andryala.Compositæ.
Increased by seeds and divisions in spring.
Aneilema.Commelinaceæ.
Propagated by seeds and root divisions.
Anemia.SeeFerns.
Anemone(Wind Flower).Ranunculaceæ.
Propagated by seeds, root divisions, or root-cuttings in autumn or early spring; the seeds are better sown as soon as ripe in pans, in a cold-frame.
Anemonopsis.Ranunculaceæ.
Increased by seeds, and by divisions of the root-stock in spring.
Angelica.Umbelliferæ.
Increased by seeds, which should be sown in September or March in ordinary soil.
Angelonia, Schelveria.Scrophularineæ.
Propagated by seeds which should be planted in spring in hot-beds, and transplanted in the open in May. By cuttings of the young shoots in spring. These root readilyunder a hand-glass, or in a propagating bed if given plenty of air daily.
Angophora.Myrtaceæ.
Increased by ripened cuttings, which will root in a few weeks in sandy soil under a hand-glass, in a cool house.
Angræcum.SeeÆrides.
Anguloa.Orchideæ.
Propagated by dividing the pseudo-bulbs, just before they commence to grow. (See underOrchids.)
Anigozanthus, Schwægrichenia.Hæmodoraceæ.
Propagated by dividing the roots in spring.
Anisanthus.SeeAntholyza.
Anise.Umbelliferæ.
Increased by seeds sown in ordinary soil, on a warm sunny border in May.
Anisochilus.Labiatæ.
Increased by seeds sown in February, in heat; or by cuttings, which will root in sandy soil under a bell-glass, in heat.
Anisomeles.Labiatæ.
Propagated by seeds, which may be sown in spring, in heat. By cuttings made in spring and inserted in heat, under a bell-glass.
Anisopetalum.SeeBulbophyllum.
Anœctochilus.Orchideæ.
Propagated by cutting off the growing top just below the last new root, dividing the remainder of the stem into lengths of two or three joints. (See underOrchids.)
Anoma.SeeMoringa.
Anomatheca.Irideæ.
Increased sometimes by seeds sown very thinly in seed pans as soon as ripe. Also multiply very rapidly by cutting up the masses once a year. Offsets.
Anona(Custard Apple).Anonaceæ.
Increased by seeds, which should be sown in pots, and plunged into a hot-bed. By ripened cuttings, which will root in sand under a hand-glass, in a moist heat.
Anoplophytum.SeeTillandsia.
Anopterus.Saxifrageæ.
Propagated by half-ripened cuttings, which root freely under a bell-glass in a cool house or frame in summer.
Ansellia.Orchideæ.
Increased by divisions of the bulbs just after flowering. (See underOrchids.)
Antennaria.Compositæ.
Propagated by seeds, sown in spring in a cold-frame, and by divisions of the roots in spring.
Anthemis(Camomile).Compositæ.
Propagated by seeds and divisions.
Anthericum, Phalangium.Liliaceæ.
Increased by seeds sown as early as possible after they are ripe, in a cold-frame; by division of the roots.
Anthocercis.Solanaceæ.
Increased by cuttings, which strike freely in sand under a bell-glass, with a mild bottom heat.
Antholoma.Tiliaceæ.
Propagated by cuttings of the ripened wood, which will strike root in sand, under a hand-glass.
Antholyza, Petamenes, including Anisanthus.Irideæ.
Increased by seeds which should be sown as soon as ripe, in light soil, in a cool house. Here they will germinate the following spring, and will be fit to plant out in the summer of the same year. Also by offsets.
Anthospermum(Amber Tree).Rubiaceæ.
Increased by cuttings, inserted in sand under a bell-glass.
Anthurium.Aroideæ.
Propagated by seeds sown as soon as ripe in shallow well-drained pans or pots filled with a compost of peat, loam, moss, broken crocks or charcoal and clean sand. Cover lightly and place in a close, moist propagating case, where a temperature of 75° to 85° is maintained; or the pots may be covered with bell-glasses. Keep the soil in a uniformly moist condition. Also increased by divisions, which should be made in January.
Anthyllis(Kidney Vetch).Leguminosæ.
Herbaceous perennials increased by seeds or cuttings. The cuttings of most species will root in a pot of sandy soil, with a bell-glass over them, in a cool house or frame. Seedof the annuals should be sown in a warm dry place in the open ground.
Anticlea.SeeZygadenus.
Antirrhinum(Snapdragon).Scrophularineæ.
Increased by seeds sown in early spring or mid-summer; by cuttings, which should be taken in September when they will readily root in a cold-frame, or under a hand-glass.
Aotus.Leguminosæ.
Increased by seeds. In April or September by cuttings of half-ripened wood, inserted in sand under a bell-glass.
Apeiba.Tiliaceæ.
Propagated by well-ripened cuttings planted in sand in heat, under a bell-glass, which should be tilted occasionally to give air.
Aphelandra.Acanthaceæ.
Propagated by cuttings from half-ripened wood taken off with a heel. Cut the base of each clean across; insert an inch apart in pots of sandy soil, and plunge in a brisk bottom heat.
Aphelexis.Compositæ.
Increased by seeds. Also by cuttings made in spring or summer; small half-ripened side shoots are the best; and these will root in sandy soil, under a bell-glass, in a cool greenhouse.
Aphyllanthes.Liliaceæ.
Increased by seeds, which should be sown as soon as ripe in pots in a cool greenhouse. Divisions are also made.
Apios.Leguminosæ.
Propagated by the tubers or divisions of them.
Aplectrum(Putty-Root).Orchideæ.
Increased by the bulb-like subterranean tubers; also by seeds. A difficult plant to grow.
Aplotaxis.SeeSaussurea.
Apocynum(Dog’s Bane).Apocynaceæ.
Propagated by seeds, suckers and divisions. The best time to divide is just as the plants are starting into growth in spring.
Aponogeton.Naiadaceæ.
Increased rapidly by seeds and offsets. The seeds should be sown as soon as ripe, in pots buried in loam, and covered with glass.
Apple(Pyrus Malus).Rosaceæ.
Standard apple stocks are grown from seeds, and dwarf stocks from layers. Apple seeds are either imported from France or are obtained from pomace. The French seeds give what are technically known ascrab stocks, the wordcrabbeing used in the sense of a wild or inferior apple. The yearling stocks themselves are imported from France in great numbers. It has been supposed that French crab stocks are hardier and more vigorous than ours, but this opinion is much less common than formerly, and the foreign stocks are not so popular now as the domestic stocks.
The chief source of apple seeds at the present time is the pomace from cider mills. The “cheese” of pomace is broken up, and if the material is dry enough it may be run through a large sieve to remove the coarser parts. The seeds are then removed by washing. Various devices are in use for washing them out. They all proceed upon the fact that the pomace will rise in water and the seeds sink. Some use a tub or common tank, which is tilted a little to allow the water to flow over the side. Others employ boxes some seven or eight feet long, four feet wide and a foot deep, the lower end of which is only eleven inches deep to allow the escape of the water. This box is set upon benches, and a good stream of water is carried into it at the upper end. A bushel or two of pomace is emptied in at a time, and it is broken and stirred with a fork or shovel. When the seeds are liberated they fall to the bottom and the refuse runs over the lower end. Another box is provided with several cleats, at intervals of about a foot, and the ends are left open. The box is set at an angle, and the seeds are caught behind the cleats. Seeds must not stand long in the pomace pile, or they will be seriously injured. Nurserymen like to secure the pomace as soon as it is taken from the press.
As soon as the seeds are collected, they should be spread upon tables or boards, and should be frequently turned until perfectly dry. They may then be stored in boxes in slightly damp sand or sawdust, or in powdered charcoal and kept in a cool and dry place until spring. Or if they are to be sown immediately they need not be dried, but simply mixed with enough dry sand to absorb the water so as to make them easy to handle Seeds should not be allowed to become hard and dry through long exposure to the air, or they will germinate unevenly. Apple seeds procured at the seed stores are often worthless because of this neglect. Very dry seeds can sometimes be grown, however, by subjecting them to repeated soakings and then sprouting in a gentle hot-bedor mild forcing-house. Change the water on the seeds every day, and at the end of a week or ten days mix with sand and place in a thin layer in the hot-bed. Stir frequently to prevent molding. When the seeds begin to sprout, sow them in the open ground. This operation, which is sometimes calledpipping, may be performed in a small way by the kitchen stove. Seeds are sometimes “pipped” between moist blankets. (See alsopage 17.)
When sowing is done in the fall, the seeds may be sown in the pomace. This entails extra labor in sowing, but it saves the labor of washing. This practice gives good results if the pomace is finely broken, and it is now common among nurserymen.
In loose and well-drained soils, sowing is undoubtedly best performed in the fall, just as early as the seeds are ready. But upon land which holds much water, and which heaves with frost or contains much clay, spring sowing is preferable. In spring, the seeds should be sown just as soon as the ground can be worked.
If the stocks are to be cultivated with a horse, the rows should be three or three and a half feet apart. Some growers sow in narrow drills and some in broad ones. The broad drills are usually six to ten inches wide. The earth is removed to the depth of two or three inches, if it is loose and in good condition, the seed is scattered thinly on the surface and the earth hoed back over them. If the ground is likely to bake, the seeds should not be sown so deep; and it is always well, in such cases, to apply some very light and clean mulch. The plants should be well cultivated during the season, and they should attain a height of six to twelve inches or more the first year. If the plants come thickly, they must be thinned out.
In the fall of the first year the seedlings should be large enough to be dug and sold to general nurserymen. Sometimes the poorest plants are allowed to stand another year, but they are usually so scattering that they do not pay for the use of the land, and they should be transplanted the same as the larger stock, or the weakest ones may be thrown away. The stocks are dug with a plow or tree-digger and heeled-in closely, so that the leaves “sweat” and fall off. The plants are then stored in sand, moss or sawdust in a cellar. Before they are shipped the tops are cut off near the crown, usually with a hatchet on a block. The stocks are then graded into budding and grafting sizes. The general nurserymen buy these stocks in fall or early winter. Those which are root-grafted are worked during late winter, but those intended forbudding, or which must be grown another season before they attain sufficient size for working, are “dressed” (SeeChapter V) and heeled-in; in the spring they are set in nursery rows, from a foot to eighteen inches apart in the row. The nurseryman reckons the age of his tree from the time the seedling is transplanted, rather than from the time the seed was sown.
Seedling raising is usually conducted by men who make it a business and who supply the general nurserymen of the country. It is largely practiced at the west, where the deep and strong soils produce a rapid growth. The yearling trees are graded by the western growers into about four lots: “Extras,” or those at least one-fourth inch in diameter at the crown and having twelve inches of both top and root; these are used mostly as budding stocks the next season, “Commons,” those between three-sixteenths and one-fourth inch at the crown and having eight inches of root; these are used for immediate root-grafting. “Second-class,” those from two to three-sixteenths inch at the crown, and “third-class,” or all those under two-sixteenths. The last two classes must be grown in the field for one or two seasons before they can be worked.
Dwarf stocks are mostly obtained from mound-layering. The common stock for dwarfing is the Paradise apple, a dwarf variety of the common apple species (Pyrus Malus). This variety rarely attains a height of more than four feet. A larger or freer stock is the Doucin, also a variety ofPyrus Malus, which will produce an engrafted tree intermediate in size between that given by the Paradise and free or common stocks. This is little used in this country. To obtain stools for mound-layering, the tree, when well established, is cut off within four or six inches of the ground in spring, and during the summer several shoots or sprouts will arise. The next year the stool is covered by a mound, and by autumn the layers are ready to take off. Sometimes, when stocks are rare, mound-layering is performed during the first summer, before the young shoots have hardened, but good stocks are not obtained by this method. Common green layering is sometimes practiced the first year, but it is not in favor. The dwarf stocks, in common with all apple stocks, may be propagated by root-cuttings and by hard-wood cuttings.
Apple stocks are either grafted or budded. Root-grafting is the most common, especially at the west where long scions are used in order to secure own-rooted trees. (SeeChapter V.) Budding is gaining in favor eastward and southward; it is performed during August and early September in thenorthern states, or it may be begun on strong stocks in July by using buds which have been kept on ice. Stocks should be strong enough to be budded the same year they are transplanted, but the operation is sometimes deferred until the second summer. Stocks which cannot be worked until the second year are unprofitable, especially on valuable land. For root-grafting, strong one-year-old roots are best, but two-year-olds are often used.
In common practice, the root is cut into two or three pieces of two to three inches each, but stronger trees are obtained, at least the first year or two, by using the whole root and grafting upon the crown. The lowest piece is usually small and weak and is generally discarded.