WILLIAM GREENFIELD.
WILLIAM GREENFIELD.
The next point west, distant about three miles, is Centreville. Moving onward towards Centreville the traveler passes the old farms and residences of Jonathan Knight, the famous civil engineer of other days, and Nathan Pusey, father of Hon. W. H. M. Pusey, a leading banker, Democratic politician and ex-member of Congress, of Council Bluffs, Iowa. Another point of interest on this part of the line, is the old historic Taylor church, which stands on the north side of the road, a monument of the religious tendencies of the good old inhabitants of the vicinity. Centreville was laid out in 1821, soon after the road was completed, and with special reference to its completion, and the anticipated prosperity to ensue by reason thereof. It is equi-distant between Uniontown and Washington. The first old tavern kept in Centreville was by John Rogers, father of the venerable Joseph T. Rogers, of Bridgeport. It is a brick house, on the north side of the road, still standing. Robert Rogers succeeded his father in this house and kept it for many years, and died in possession. At brief intervals in the lifetime of Robert Rogers this house was conducted by Solomon Bracken, son-in-law of Mr. Rogers, and a Mr. Wilson, the latter occupying it but for one year. The Rogers House was known and noted throughout the entire period of the road’s prosperous era as a quiet, orderly, well kept tavern. The leading wagon stand in Centreville was on the hill at the west end of town, a brick house, on the south side of the road. The wagon yard was in the rear. Zephania Riggle kept this house at an early day, and was succeeded in 1845 by Peter Colley, a nephew of Abel Colley, before mentioned. Henry Whitsett came in after Colley, and next Jacob Marks, who was followed by William Garrett, and Jesse Quail succeeded Garrett. The property is now owned by Joseph B. Jeffreys who keeps the old tavern open for the accommodation of strangersand travelers. The house kept by Zeph Riggle on this site was destroyed by fire during his incumbency, and promptly rebuilt. Battley White, the celebrated manufacturer of the wagoner’s black snake whip, before mentioned, lived in Centreville. The house now occupied by Morris Cleaver, on the hill west of Centreville, was at one time a tavern. It was first kept by Charley Miller, then by Zeph Riggle, and next, in 1836, by Mrs. Dutton, mother of John R. Dutton, the well known, reputable and prosperous merchant of Brownsville. Mrs. Dutton owned the property, and moved from here to Brownsville, after which this old tavern closed. Its career was somewhat brief, but it was a well kept tavern, and had a good line of custom in its day.
About half a mile west from Mrs. Dutton’s an old frame tavern, on the north side of the road, as early as 1824, displayed the sign of theConstitution, and entertained primitive travelers of the road. This old house was kept for a while by one Johnson, but it long since disappeared from view.
Eli Railley kept a tavern as early as 1830 in a brick house on the north side of the road, about one and a half miles west of Centreville, and was succeeded by the widow Welsh, who conducted it as a tavern as late as 1850. This house is still standing, owned by Amos Cleaver, and occupied by his son as a private residence.
CHARLES GUTTERY.
CHARLES GUTTERY.
Beallsville, distant one and a half miles from the old Railley tavern, is next reached. In proceeding to Beallsville the traveler passes one of the old toll houses, all of which, as before stated, are still standing, and in good condition, except the one near Mt. Washington and the one on Big Savage mountain. David Mitchell, the old collector at the gate near Beallsville, is well remembered as a straightforward, honest and intelligent citizen. Beallsville, like Centreville as a town, was the outgrowth of the National Road. It was laid out in 1821, and incorporated as a borough in 1852. Jonathan Knight, the old engineer before mentioned, surveyed the site of the town and made the plat. The National Road forms the main street of this town, as it does that of Centreville. The first old tavern reached in Beallsville, going west, was on the north side, at the east end of the town. This house was first kept by Andrew Keys, and after him by Thomas Keys. This was previous to 1840. It was next kept by Robert Cluggage, and after Cluggage, James Dennison kept it. Dennison was succeeded by Moses Bennington, who afterwards kept the old Adams House at West Brownsville. Charles Guttery also kept this house in 1854. Dennison was a Claysville man, and after keeping tavern for short terms, at different points on the road, returned to Claysville, where he died. He was an old wagoner, as well as a tavern keeper, and well and favorably known on the road. He had an interest by marriage, or birth-right, in some real estate at or near Claysville, and this is doubtless the chord that drew him at last back to that point. The old Keys tavern had a commodious wagon yard attached, and entertained many old wagoners.
BILLY ROBINSON.
BILLY ROBINSON.
About the center of the town of Beallsville, and on the south or west side, Wm. Greenfield kept a famous old tavern, and he was in many other respects a famous old man. He was tall and spare, with a brown complexion, a defective eye, and a philosophic turn of mind. It was his fortune to have a good wife, and to her, in great measure, was attributed the high grade of this old tavern. The traveler could always get a good cup of coffee at Greenfield’s, a rare thing in a tavern and utterly unknown in a hotel. In addition to keeping tavern, William Greenfield was a banker, and established the “Beallsville Savings Bank.” His bank was in his tavern, and his safe was his pocket. He issued notes of small denominations, which were handsomely printed and engraved, and they acquired some credit, and a limited circulation. The pressure of redemption, however, was more than the old banker-tavern keeper could withstand, and he was forced to close business as a banker, but continued his tavern successfully. It is due to the memory of the old gentleman to state, that no serious losses were sustained by the note holders of his bank. He continued to keep tavern at the old stand until his death, which occurred many years ago, and all the old pike boys, from one end of the road to the other, have a kind word for the memory of William Greenfield.
Charley Miller kept a tavern as early as 1830, and probably before that date, in the brick house on the corner opposite Greenfield’s, and this house was subsequently, and for many years kept by Mrs. Chambers. It was a quiet, orderly, and aristocratic old tavern, especially when under the management of Mrs. Chambers, and enjoyed a good reputation as an eating house. Benjamin Demon took charge of this house after the retirement of Mrs. Chambers, and kept it for a while. Moses Bennington succeeded Demon, and Charles Guttery succeeded Bennington. Guttery was the last of the old line of tavern keepers, at this house. Beallsville was a station for the line wagons, and John Cook, an old wagoner whose home was there, drove a line team for many years.
Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued—Beallsville to Washington—Hillsboro—The Old Hill House—Samuel Youman, next to Old Mount the biggest man of the Road—George Ringland, John Noble, Billy Robinson, Charley Miller’s, The Gals House, Daniel Ward, Egg Nog Hill, The Long Stretch, Thomas Hastings, The Upland House, Joseph Doak, The Mount Vernon House, Maj. Dunlap, Charles Rettig, Pancake, Jonathan Martin, The Sample House.
Three miles west from Beallsville the traveler reaches the village of Hillsboro. This little town is another outgrowth of the National Road, and as at Beallsville and Centreville, the road forms its main street. The grade from Beallsville to Hillsboro is for the most part ascending, the hill going out west from Beallsville being one of the longest on the road, and Hillsboro is situate on a lofty eminence overlooking a wide range of hills, and many fertile slopes and valleys. On the summit above Hillsboro, the traveler coming east, gets the first glimpses of Laurel Hill, thirty miles distant in the mountains. Crumrine’s history of Washington county, before quoted, informs us that Hillsboro was laid out in the year 1819, a date coincident with the completion of the road. The proprietors of the town were Stephen Hill and Thomas McGiffin, and Crumrine’s history contains the following notice of the first public sale of lots:
“The public are informed that a town has been laid off, to be called Hillsboro, adjoining Hill’s stone tavern, about equal distance from Washington to Brownsville, and that lots will be sold on the premises on Monday, the 19th day of August, at public auction. Sale to commence at 10 o’clockA. M.
Accompanying the plat of the town as recorded, says Crumrine, were these remarks: “The above is a plan of the town of Hillsboro, nearly equi-distant between Brownsville and Washington, Pennsylvania, on the United States road.” Signed by the proprietors. Stephen Hill belonged to an old family of that name, which was among the early settlers of the region, and Thomas McGiffin was an old and prominent lawyer of Washington, and a contractor on the original construction of the road, father of Col. Norton McGiffin, a soldier of two wars, and Sheriff and member of the Legislature for Washingtoncounty. Hill’s stone tavern was in existence as early as 1794. In the early history of the National Road, and for a number of years, it was the leading tavern of Hillsboro, kept by Thomas Hill, who was not a son, but a near relative, probably a nephew, of Stephen Hill, the old proprietor. Samuel Youman kept this house fifty years ago, after the retirement of Hill. Youman was a stage driver as well as a tavern keeper, and next to “Old Mount,” as before stated, the biggest man on the road. One of the stage lines, that on which Youman was a driver, stopped at this house, and it was the only stage house on the road that was largely patronized by old wagoners, and their favor was obtained probably by reason of the spacious and commodious wagon yard in front of the house. John Hampson, John Gibson, William Dawson and Oliver Lacock each in turn kept this house since Youman’s time, and it is at present continued as a tavern by Mr. Lacock’s son.
In the year 1827 James Beck kept a tavern in Hillsboro. He was a member of the old bridge builders firm of Kinkead, Beck & Evans, and moved from the “Vance farm,” near Uniontown, which he once owned, to Hillsboro, at the date named. He remained in Hillsboro but one year, and his successor in the tavern there was George Ringland. Ringland was a citizen of some prominence in his day, a brother of Col. Thomas Ringland, an old soldier, and a leading man in the public affairs of Washington county more than half a century ago. David Railly succeeded Ringland in this house about the year 1840. It was a stage house, but did a general business. After Railly this house was kept at different times by John Noble, who married Railly’s widow, John Taylor, Henry Taylor, Jesse Core and William Robinson. Noble and Robinson were both old stage drivers, Noble before, as well as after his experience as a tavern keeper. Robinson died a tavern keeper, and in the house last mentioned. “Billy” Robinson was one of the best known and most popular men of the road. He was short in stature, with reddish complexion, dark hair, and an amiable disposition. He hauled many an old-time statesman safely in his nimble coach, and afterward dined him sumptuously in his bountiful tavern. There was an old tavern in Hillsboro, near the centre of the town, on the south side of the road, kept first by John Wilson, and after his time by Stephen Phelps, and next and last by David Powell. Its career was not as long as many other old taverns of the road, but in its time it was a lively house and had a large run of custom. Zeph Riggle kept a tavern in what is known as the Dr. Clark house, on the south side, in Hillsboro, at an early day, and as at other points on the road where he catered to the wants of the traveling public, drew a good trade. He was the only person that ever kept this house as a tavern.
About two miles west of Hillsboro the famous old tavern of Charley Miller is reached. It is a large and handsome brick building on the south side of the road, and was kept before Miller’s time by Henry Taylor. Miller did a large business, and had all sorts of customers, with a capacity to adapt himself to the wants and whims of every variety. He was accustomed to say, in commendation of his whisky, that it was a hundred years old; that he could vouch for its age, for he helped to make it. Parties of young folks were accustomed to drive out from Washington, a distance of ten miles, to take a meal and have a dance at Charley Miller’s. His meals were sumptuous and savory, and gave his house a reputation from which he did not fail to profit. One of his specialties was fine peach brandy, which is graciously remembered and frequently spoken of by the survivors of the old pike boys with a glow of enthusiasm. Miller died in this house, and it passed to the hands of David Ullery.
“No longer the host hobbles down from his restIn the porch’s cool shadow, to welcome his guestWith a smile of delight and a grasp of the hand,And a glance of the eye that no heart could withstand.”
“No longer the host hobbles down from his restIn the porch’s cool shadow, to welcome his guestWith a smile of delight and a grasp of the hand,And a glance of the eye that no heart could withstand.”
“No longer the host hobbles down from his rest
In the porch’s cool shadow, to welcome his guest
With a smile of delight and a grasp of the hand,
And a glance of the eye that no heart could withstand.”
One and a half miles west of Charley Miller’s, on the south side of the road, a tavern was kept in a wooden building many years ago by William Plymire. This old tavern furnished good entertainment, and its old host was attentive and polite to his patrons. Plymire was succeeded in this house by Henry Yorty, who kept it going as a tavern until his death, and for some time thereafter it was kept by his widow, but was never kept as a tavern after Mrs. Yorty’s time.
The next old wagon stand on the westward tramp is the “Gals House.” This house is situate on the north side of the road, about two miles west of Charley Miller’s. It is a frame building, and once was painted red, but the red all wore off many years ago, and was not replaced. It was called the “Gals House,” because it was owned and conducted by three maiden women of the family name of Dague. The grounds around this old house, night after night, throughout the entire period of the road’s prosperity, were crowded with teams and wagons, and the reputation of the place was excellent in every particular. The Dague girls were the owners of the house, and of about eighty acres of rich land surrounding it, and after business closed on the road, they sold and conveyed the property to Joseph Henderson, a well remembered and worthy old stage driver, who went into possession and made this place his home for many years.
DANIEL WARD.
DANIEL WARD.
One mile further west is Ward’s. Here a well known tavern was kept by Daniel Ward, all through the flourishing era of the road, and it was well kept and well patronized. Ward was rich, the owner of his tavern stand, and a fine farm in addition, and therefore unlike many other old tavern keepers of the road who leased their houses from year to year, and changed from point to point at different times. Ward’s tavern is a large frame house, on the north side of the road, with a spacious porch in front, and a large wagon yard conveniently attached, and was a favorite stopping place for old wagoners. The old house is still standing, unused, because not needed as a tavern, but it remains a prominent landmark of the road, carrying the mindback to the period of its enlivening scenes and moving pageants. Daniel Ward was a pronounced type of the old tavern keeper. He was rather a large man, not fleshy, but broad shouldered, with a slight stoop. His complexion was reddish, and he always had a pleasant smile wherewith to greet a guest. He wore a broad-rimmed, high-crowned, brown-colored fur hat, with long, soft nap, the style of hat worn by all old tavern keepers and wagoners when dressed for special occasions. Mrs. Ward was an admirable help-mate for her husband. She was a large woman, of florid complexion, and full of energy and zeal in her occupation. The meals she spread before her numerous guests in all seasons were bountiful and relishable, and gave her husband’s old tavern a wide reputation. What a change? Once all was life and animation at this old tavern, now
“The wind whistles shrill, through the wide open doors,And lizards keep house, on the mouldering floors.”
“The wind whistles shrill, through the wide open doors,And lizards keep house, on the mouldering floors.”
“The wind whistles shrill, through the wide open doors,
And lizards keep house, on the mouldering floors.”
Four miles west from Ward’s the old and popular wagon stand of Thomas Hastings is reached. In proceeding onward toward the Hastings House a celebrated point is passed, known in the peculiar vocabulary of the road as “Egg Nog Hill.” On this hill for many years lived in retirement Samuel Flowers, one of the oldest, steadiest and best known wagoners of the road. William D. Evans, residing in Malvern, Iowa, a son of Gabriel Evans, of the old firm of Kinkead, Beck & Evans, contractors and bridge builders, before mentioned, furnishes the following story as to the origin of the name of this hill: The engineers in locating the line of the road were much exercised in fixing the grade at this point, and before arriving at conclusions the sun went down, and with a view probably of stimulating their minds to clearer conceptions, they ordered a bucket of egg-nog to be served in their shanty. Partaking freely of this ancient, agreeable and strong beverage during the night, they proceeded next morning with the work in hand, and established the grade without further embarrassment. The chain carriers and other employees were called in to the rough, roadside banquet, and the region all around echoed the notes of that night’s revelry, and ever thereafter the locality has been known as “Egg Nog Hill.” If this is a true account of the origin of the name, and the authority quoted is respectable and credible, there are many persons willing to aver that the influence of the egg nog was anything but propitious, since the grade of the road at this point is nothing to boast of. At the foot of Egg Nog Hill a valley is reached over which the road passes for a distance of two miles on a level grade, varied by slight undulations, terminating at or near the old Buchanan postoffice. This portion of the road was called by old stage drivers “The Long Stretch,” and over its favorable grade stage teams sped with more than ordinary rapidity. It is considered germaine to state in this connection, that the general grade of the road has been much and sharply criticised, and by many condemned outright. The main point of objection urged against the grade is, that it involvesmany long and steep hills, which could have been avoided by making side cuts and occupying the valleys, and this is true, but any other location would have lengthened the line and increased the cost of construction and maintenance. David Shriver, of Cumberland, was the chief engineer in charge of the location, and instructed by the Government to make the line as straight as practicable, within the limit of a five degree elevation. Besides, there was a popular theory when the line was located, that a road over hills was not as fatiguing to horses as a road with a uniform grade. It was argued that a horse is provided with two sets of muscles, one of which is used in going up and the other in going down a hill, and the conclusion was that horses were relieved and rested by a change from an up to a down grade. After this digression, the reader’s attention is invited back to the old tavern of Thomas Hastings. It is situate on the summit of a hill of average length and grade on the south side, and a short distance back from the road. The location of this house, with reference to the road, is similar to that of the old red tavern, two miles east of Brownsville. The Hastings House was a leading tavern of the road, all through its prosperous era. The large patronage it enjoyed is the best evidence that it was well kept.
John W. McDowell, of Uniontown, an ex-County Commissioner of Fayette county, Pennsylvania, was working on the road in 1844 under the superintendency of William Searight, and boarding at the Hastings House. On the morning of the election of that year he rose “bright and early,” took his breakfast “before the break of day,” mounted a horse, and rode to Mt. Washington, the polling place for Wharton township, which was his home, in time to vote for Polk and Dallas. McDowell frequently relates this incident of his life, when recounting his party services, and lays particular stress on the circumstance that the dining room girls gladly furnished him his breakfast and cheered him on his mission. The distance from the old Hastings tavern to Mt. Washington is forty-two miles.
While the road was undergoing construction, there was a tavern about midway of the “Long Stretch,” and on the south side of the road. It was kept by one Smith, of the extensive American family of that name. At times there was great disorder and much tumult, amounting almost to riot, at this old tavern, and on one of these occasions the old militia of Washington county was ordered to the scene to enforce the keeping of the peace. These disorders, like similar outbreaks of the present day, were no doubt attributable to the immoderate use of intoxicants.
JOHN W. McDOWELL.
JOHN W. McDOWELL.
Within a few hundred feet, and west of the old Hastings house, Samuel Hughes kept a tavern in 1844 and before, and probably a short time after that date. His house was a large and imposing frame building on the north side of the road, and known in its day as the “Upland House.” This name appeared on the sign board. The surroundings of this house were attractive. It had an aristocratic air about it, and enjoyed an aristocratic patronage. While oldwagoners crowded the Hastings House, travelers in chaises and fine carriages stopped at the Upland. By some means, and many years ago, this old house was demolished, and a fine brick building erected on its site, owned and occupied by Joseph Doak, who was at one time a superintendent of the road.
About one and a half miles west of the Upland House, Major James Dunlap, at a very early period of the road’s history, kept a tavern on the south side, on an elevation and a little distance back from the roadside. It was called the “Mt. Vernon House,” and was doing business as early as the year 1816, two years before the road was completed as far west as Washington. Major Dunlap was a prominent man of his day, and brigade inspector of the Washington county (Pennsylvania) militia, an office of no little consequence in the early history of Pennsylvania. Major Dunlap subsequently kept the Jackson House in Washington, Pennsylvania. Before reaching the Mt. Vernon House, an old round toll house is passed, where William Hill collected tolls for many years from the throngs of travelers on the road. The old Mt. Vernon House was supplanted by a new one, under the direction of Charles Rettig, who became the owner of the property. The new house is a brick structure, and was a wagon stand. There was an abundant water supply at this house, and old stage drivers and wagoners halted upon reaching it to refresh their teams. Charles Rettig died about the year 1860. He was a staunch and sturdy citizen, and possessed the confidence and enjoyed the respect of all his neighbors.
The next point west, but a short distance, is invested with more than ordinary interest. It is Pancake, sometimes called Martinsburg, and in later years, to a limited extent, known as Laboratory. But Pancake was the original, and remains the popular name. It is almost within eyesight of Washington. The first tavern here was kept by George Pancake, and hence the name given the place. His house was a small log building, erected near the beginning of the present century, and probably the first house in the village. Pancake did well with the means at his command, but his old house was not equal to the growing wants of the road, and after it was removed, and the old proprietor called to his final reckoning, Jonathan Martin appeared on the scene. Martin was a discerning man, and foreseeing the future of the National Road as a great highway, built a large brick house for use as a tavern. It is situate on the north side of the road, two stories, twelve large and comfortable rooms, and was erected in the year 1825. A spacious porch runs the entire length of the house and approaches the edge of the road. Jonathan Martin kept this tavern from the date of its erection until business closed on the road, with the exception of one year that it was in charge of J. W. Holland, back in the forties. Since the close of its career as a tavern it has been occupied as a quiet farm house. Martin was a genial landlord, and made money at tavern keeping. A short distance back from the tavern he had a horse-power grist mill and a carding machinewhich he operated for a number of years, thus supplementing his gains as a tavern keeper. General Jackson was on one occasion a guest of Martin’s tavern, and the celebrated theologian, Alexander Campbell, frequently lodged within its venerable walls and sat at its bounteous table.
As early as 1824 George Ringland kept a wagon stand tavern within a short distance of the borough limits of Washington. His old house, a commodious brick building, is still standing, situate on the north, or at this point rather, east side of the road, with sufficient ground intervening to form a good wagon yard. John Sample succeeded Ringland at this old stand, and became the owner of the property. It is now the private residence of William Workman, esq., and has not been kept as a tavern since 1844.
Old Tavern and Tavern Keepers continued—Washington—Washington and Jefferson College—The Female Seminary—James Wilson, first Tavern Keeper in Washington—The two Dodds—Major McCormick’s—The White Goose and the Golden Swan—Hallam’s Old Wagon Stand—The Valentine—The Buck—The Gen. Andrew Jackson—The Globe—The Cross Keys—The Indian Queen—The Mermaid—The Rising Sun—The Gen. Brown—The Fountain—Billy Brown and Jimmy Brown—The Mansion—John N. Dagg—A Giant Boot Jack—The American—The Fulton—The National—Surratt’s—The Greene House.
Washington became a point on the National Road by force of a provision in the act of Assembly of Pennsylvania, approved April 9th, 1807, before recited. In a retrospective view that seems to have been a wise provision. Washington, it is true, is older than the road, but without the road it would be difficult to conjecture what the history of the town would have been from 1818 down to 1852. That the road had much to do in promoting the growth and prosperity of the town, there can be no question, and it must also be conceded that the town contributed in good round measure to the life and prosperity of the road. Washington is one of the largest and prettiest towns on the road, not as well favored by location as Uniontown. While Washington possesses many very important advantages, it has at the same time, like other towns, its disadvantages. For example, it is a dry town. It was not dry in the palmy days of the old pike. No liquor can at this time be lawfully sold in Washington as a beverage, and the town is not over abundantly supplied with good water. On the other hand, the town is justly distinguished for the superiority of its educational institutions. Washington and Jefferson college is one of the best in the land. Its graduates include many of the ablest men of the country, both of the present and the past. Everywhere, at every loading point in our widely extended Republic, the graduates of Washington and Jefferson College are pushing ahead at the front, in all the learned professions, in the judiciary, and in every line of honorable industry. It is not a dude college, as many more pretentious colleges are, but a working college, sending out workers, equipped like men, to run the race set before them. The Female Seminary is another institution of which the citizens of Washington are justly proud. It stands in the front rank of similar institutions, and formore than half a century, year after year, has sent out its graduates to cheer and brighten the world.
The writer of these lines confesses to an affection for Washington, which no vicissitude of life or time can alienate. He was educated at her college, and if he failed in obtaining a thorough education, it was not the fault of his venerablealma mater. Dr. David McConoughy, who presided over the college, when the writer was a student within its halls, deserves to be classed among the Saints. A purer man never lived. He was a Christian, who never entertained a doubt, and a scholar in the broadest sense; and it is most gratifying to the thousands of graduates and friends of the college scattered broadcast throughout the land, to know that Dr. Moffatt, the present head of the institution, is a worthy successor of that venerated president. The writer also retains the sweetest recollections of the old citizens of Washington, and cherishes with deepest feeling his associations at college with James G. Blaine, who subsequently became the most illustrious statesman of his generation, and many others who have written their names high on the scroll of fame.
There may be some readers inclined to think that the blending of stage drivers and wagoners with doctors, teachers and statesmen, is a strange commingling; but it is not. History is literature, and stage drivers and wagoners, like other classes, and occupations of men, enter into the web and woof of history.
James Wilson hung out the first tavern sign in Washington. His house was a log structure, and stood at the northwest corner of Main and Beau streets, now covered by Smith’s store. He opened up business in 1781, and was licensed by the court to dispense the ardent at “Catfish Camp.” He continued business in this house down to the year 1792. The old Supreme Judges stopped at Wilson’s tavern when they went to Washington to hold the courts of Oyer and Terminer. Whether they were fed on roast pig, as Chief Justice McKean at Salter’s old tavern in Uniontown, does not appear of record. After Wilson’s time this house was enlarged and otherwise improved, and continued as a tavern by Michael Ocheltree, who remained in charge down to the year 1812, when a man of the name of Rotroff was installed as host. Rotroff gave way to John Kline, who came up from the Cross Roads, nine miles west of Brownsville, and took charge of the house, under the sign of “Gen. Wayne.” Capt. John McCluney followed Kline, and he in turn was followed by Joseph Teeters and Joseph Hallam. Hallam kept the house until probably 1840, when he went down town to take charge of the old wagon stand on the site of the present Valentine House. When Hallam left it the old Wilson House ceased to be a tavern.
As early as 1782 John Dodd kept tavern in a log house on the east side of Main street, nearly opposite the court house, and remained its host until his death in 1795. He died while returning home from a trading trip to New Orleans. John Wilson next took charge, and conducted its affairs for many years, associated with stirring events, down to a period as late probably as 1835, when the house disappeared as a tavern. John Dodd was an ancestor of the numerous Dodds now of Washington and vicinity, most of whom have taken to the ministry and other learned professions.
Charles Dodd, a brother of John, above mentioned, kept a tavern on Main street in 1782, in a log house, recently occupied by Robert Strean’s hardware store. The first courts of Washington county were held in this old tavern, and the county jail was a log stable in the rear of the lot on which it stood. Charles Dodd kept this tavern for ten years, and sold out to Daniel Kehr, who continued it a short time, but finding it unprofitable, took down his sign and went to shoemaking.
John Adams kept a tavern from 1783 to 1789. Its location is not accurately known, and so in the case of John Colwell, a tavern keeper of 1784. In 1785 Hugh Means, Samuel Acklin and William Falconer, were tavern keepers in Washington. Acklin continued in the business until 1788, and Falconer until 1791. William Meetkirk, who was subsequently a justice of the peace for many years, kept a tavern on Main street from 1786 to 1793, in the house until recently occupied by Mrs. McFarland, and it is not unlikely that this is the house kept by Colwell and Means.
Maj. George McCormick kept a tavern in 1788, and Col. John May’s journal compliments it by this entry: “Thursday, Aug. 7, 1788, set out from the hotel at four o’clock, and at half-past eight arrived at Maj. George McCormick’s in Washington, where we breakfasted. This is an excellent house, where New England men put up.” The writer regrets his failure to ascertain the exact location of this old tavern.
Hugh Wilson (son of James) kept a tavern in Washington in 1789, and John McMichael in 1790, the locations of which are not now ascertainable.
Charles Valentine kept the “White Goose” in 1791. This house stood on the lot now covered by the Valentine House. The name Valentine is prominently identified with the National Road from the date of its construction to the present time. The “White Goose” was the symbol under which this old tavern sailed until the year 1806, when it assumed the more poetic name of “Golden Swan,” under the management of John Rettigg. Rettigg was relieved from its cares and responsibilities in 1810 by Juliana Valentine, who presided over its destinies down to the year 1819. It next passed to the control and management of James Sargeant, who kept it for a brief period, and turned it over to John Valentine and Lewis Valentine, who continued it down to 1825. It was next kept for two years by John Hays. In 1827 it was kept by Isaac Sumny, under the sign of the “Washington Hall.” It was kept by Samuel Donley and various other persons, down to about the year 1840, when as before stated, it passed to the control of Joseph Hallam. In Hallam’s time it was a popular wagon stand, and did a large business. Hallam was a manbelow the medium size, a little stooped, and of quiet demeanor. He had a good wagon yard, and catered to the tastes of old wagoners in an agreeable manner. The happiest moments of Amos Waltz were those in which he inserted the gear pole between the spokes of the hind wheel of a road wagon, as it stood on Hallam’s yard, and afterward took a drink with the jolly wagoners in Hallam’s old bar-room. In 1847 or 1848 the present Valentine House was built, and kept for many years thereafter by Maj. Geo. T. Hammond. It was also kept a while by ex-Sheriff Andrew Bruce, afterward by ex-Sheriff Hugh Keys, and later and until a recent date by William F. Dickey, and is now called the “Allison House.”
In 1791 Michael Kuntz kept a tavern where Vowell’s drug store stands. This house was kept in 1797 by John Scott, under the sign of the “Spread Eagle.” I. Neilson, John Fisher, Samuel McMillen, and John Ferguson, were all old tavern keepers of Washington.
Joseph Huston kept the “Buck Tavern” as early as 1796. This is a stone house on the east side of Main street, below Maiden. Huston kept this house until 1812, and died in it. His widow succeeded him for a brief period, and leased the house to James Sargeant, who kept it until 1815, when Mrs. Huston again went in, and kept it until 1820. She afterward re-married, lost her second husband, and was keeping this house in 1838 as Elizabeth Fleming, and it was continued after that date by her son, William B. Huston. The old Buck is still standing, one of the landmarks of the town.
In 1797 James Workman kept a tavern, the site of which is not known. He continued until 1813, when he went to farming. After three years’ experience in farming he returned to town, and opened a tavern under the sign of “Gen. Andrew Jackson.” This old tavern stood on the west side of Main street, below the “Globe Inn.” It was subsequently kept by Maj. James Dunlap of the old Mt. Vernon House, east of Pancake.
From 1798 to 1806 Dr. John J. Lemoyne kept a tavern on the south side of Main street, where an old road came down over Gallows Hill. This house was afterward kept by Jacob Good, and continued for a number of years by his widow.
The “Globe Inn” was one of the most famous old taverns in Washington. It was located on the west side of Main street, at the corner of Strawberry alley. This house was opened as a tavern in 1797, and in the next year passed to the hands of David Morris, and was kept by him, continuously, until his death in 1834. General LaFayette was entertained at this house in 1825, and it was a favorite stopping place of Henry Clay, and many other statesmen and heroes of the olden time. This old tavern was a frame building, and remained standing until 1891. Rev. William P. Alrich, an old and popular professor of mathematics in Washington college, married a daughter of David Morris.
One Fox kept a tavern, at an early period, in a house that stood on the east side of Main street, where the Morgan Block now stands.
The “Cross Keys” was a popular tavern of the olden time. It stood on the southeast corner of Main and Wheeling streets, opposite the Valentine House. It was opened in 1801 by James McCamant, who kept it until his death, which occurred in 1813. Tradition has it that he died from the effects of a bite by a mad wolf. His widow continued it for about two years, when she quit it to take charge of the “General Washington House,” nearly opposite the court house. She returned, however, after a time to the “Cross Keys,” and was keeping that house as late as 1831. In the year last named she caused to be inserted in a town paper a notice that she furnished dinner and horse feed for twenty-five cents, and boarding and lodging for jurors and others attending court for two dollars a week. The “Cross Keys” was kept afterward at different dates by James Sargeant, Charles Rettig, John Bradfield, William Blakely and Otho Hartzell. It closed as a tavern previous to 1844. James McCamant, the first proprietor of the “Cross Keys” tavern, was the father-in-law of Joseph Henderson, esq., a prominent and popular old lawyer of Washington.
Christian Keiffer kept a tavern in 1805 at the sign of “Washington.” Keiffer’s career as a tavern keeper must have been a brief and an uninteresting one, since old inhabitants are unable to locate his house, although it bore a name that should and does survive, in every other form except in its application to Keiffer’s old tavern.
John Kirk kept a tavern about the beginning of the present century in a house that stood on Wheeling street, west of Main. This house was painted red and penciled to imitate brick. After Kirk left it William Wilson became its proprietor. He was known as “Center Billy.” He did not find tavern keeping sufficiently profitable, and quitting the business, turned his attention to blacksmithing and wagon making. The old name of Wheeling street was “Belle,” and the present name was given it by the old stage drivers and wagoners, because it intersected the old road leading to Wheeling.
The “Indian Queen” was an old and well remembered tavern on Main street, opposite the court house. It was opened in 1808 by John McCluny. In 1815 it changed its location and solicited public patronage on Main street, above Chestnut, where Justice Donehoe’s residence now is, under the auspices of its old founder, John McCluny aforesaid. In its new location it became the headquarters of the Jackson Democracy. This house was kept by Thomas Officer, and was known as the “Green Tree,” before McCluny placed it under the shield of the “Indian Queen.” It was afterward occupied by John Johnson, who kept it for a number of years, and it ceased to do business as a tavern during his occupancy.
About the year 1820 John Manuel kept a tavern in a white frame house on the west side of Main street, immediately below the present depot of the Baltimore & Ohio railroad.
There was an old tavern in Washington at an early day kept by Jacob Moler, and known as “The Mermaid.” It was located on thesouth side of West Wheeling street, and on the lot now owned by Charles Driehorst. It was the headquarters of the Hibernians, and while it did not aspire to rival the “Globe” or the “Rising Sun,” it was not lacking in patronage. It does not appear to have been continued as a tavern after the time of Moler.
The “Rising Sun,” a leading tavern in its day, occupied a lot near the corner of Main and Chestnut streets, almost directly opposite the house subsequently known as “The Mansion.” The first proprietor of the “Rising Sun” was James Garrett, and he remained in charge until 1822. He was active in his business, and accustomed to say, “Walk in, walk in, gentlemen; I keep a decent house, and provide sweetened bitters.” James Briceland kept this house for one year, after which he turned it back to Garrett, who continued to keep it until it passed to the hands of John N. Dagg, who kept it until he purchased the “Mansion House,” on the opposite corner. It is said that one hundred teams have been seen standing around the “Rising Sun” in a single night. Briceland went down to the lower end of town and took charge of the house subsequently known as “The National.” In 1823 while Dagg was keeping the “Rising Sun,” a townsman and an old wagoner had an altercation in the bar-room, and Dagg pitched them both out into the street. In the descent the wagoner’s head struck the curb-stone, fatally injuring him. Mr. Dagg was prosecuted and arraigned for murder in consequence, but acquitted by the jury on the ground that the homicide was more the result of accident, than any intention to kill. During the brief term of Mr. Briceland at the “Rising Sun” he had as guests on one occasion, Gen. Andrew Jackson, family and suite. The distinguished party wereen routeto Washington City, and upon departing from the “Rising Sun” were honored by an escort of citizens of Washington as far east as Hillsboro.
In 1821 Enoch Miller opened a tavern in a large brick house at the west end of town, nearly opposite the old Methodist church, which stood on Chestnut street, a little below Franklin. He called his house the “General Brown,” and it was well patronized. Richard Donaldson kept this house after Miller’s time. Upon quitting the “General Brown” Enoch Miller opened the “Fountain Inn,” a brick building nearly opposite and a few doors east of the “General Brown,” on Chestnut street, and he was succeeded in this house in 1825 by George Ringland. William P. Byles was an old proprietor of this house also.
William J. Brown, called “Old Billy,” kept a tavern as early as 1832, and for many years thereafter, on the east side of Main street near the center of town. It was a frame building and had a fair paying custom. It was known for a time as the “Farmers’ Inn,” and later as the “Black Bear.” The old proprietor was a quaint character, and much pestered by the boys of the town. With all his troubles and tribulations he managed to lay aside a sufficiency of worldly goods to protect himself against the requirements of a rainy day.
S. B. HAYS.
S. B. HAYS.
And there was old “Jimmy Brown,” another odd character, not a relation of “Billy.” Jimmy was an Irishman, and knew how to make and keep money. He kept a tavern for many years in a white frame house opposite the court house, and near the “Fulton.” He called his house “The Franklin.” His savings were sufficient to warrant him in tearing down his old house and erecting in its stead a fine new brick structure, which he did. After building his new house he married a wife, and was warmly congratulated by his numerous friends. With the assistance of his wife he continued to entertain the public until his death, leaving the cares and anxieties of his business to his bereaved widow, who soon after remarried and retired to private life. The house is now used for mercantile purposes, one of the best locations in town. Jimmy Brown, when occupying his old house, was accustomed to say to his friends: “I have some nicefesh, come away to the cellar with me, and see myfesh.” He had no license then.
The Mansion House was a leading tavern in Washington from the time it commenced business until it was destroyed by fire, which occurred after the National Road ceased to be a great thoroughfare. It was located on the northeast corner of Main and Chestnut streets. Before the “Mansion House” was built an old red frame house stood on this corner, which was kept as a tavern by a man whose surname was Scott. John N. Dagg bought this property prior to his withdrawal from the “Rising Sun,” on the opposite corner, and commenced to improve it. The outcome of his enterprise was the erection of a large brick building, known as the Mansion House, with extensive sheds and stables in the rear. About the year 1834 Mr. Dagg leased the premises to John Irons, who conducted the house for a period of two years, after which Mr. Dagg returned as landlord, and continued to keep it down to the year 1844, or thereabout, when he leased it to S. B. and C. Hayes, who conducted it for a brief period, and were succeeded by Bryson and Shirls, subsequently of the St. Charles Hotel, Pittsburgh. The Good Intent line of stages gave its patronage to the “American,” when that house was kept by the Messrs. Hayes, and to the “Greene House,” when it was kept by Daniel Brown. Thereafter the headquarters of that line were at the Mansion House, and it was headquarters for the Pilot line when the Good Intent stopped at the “American.” The Mansion House had a large country trade, as well as that derived from the National Road. The old bar room was of immense size, and the old proprietor, John N. Dagg, was one of the largest men on the road. He was not fat, but tall, and widely proportioned. He provided for his country guests a large upright boot jack, with side bars, which acted as levers, designed to steady the toe in the operation of drawing off a boot. Half cut, cheap leather slippers were also provided, and upon pulling their boots, guests put on these slippers, and in the mornings, piles of boots, nicely polished, were placed in a corner of the bar room, to await the return of their owners from the slumbers of the night. It was notan uncommon thing to see scores of country people sitting about in the big bar room after supper, talking over the events of the day, all wearing the slippers referred to, preparatory to going to rest for the night, at the early bed time of that happy period. James K. Polk, wife and suite, stopped at the Mansion House on the inaugural trip in 1845. The “Examiner,” under date of February 15, 1845, gave the following account of the reception of the distinguished party: “President Polk arrived in our borough on Monday evening last, about 5 o’clock, escorted by quite a respectable number of our citizens. The President was accompanied by his lady, J. Knox Walker, his private secretary, and Master Marshall Polk, comprising the President’s family; also Colonel Butler, of Kentucky, Judge Hubbard, of Alabama, and Messrs. T. K. Stevenson, J. G. Harris and J. N. Esselman. The arrival of the President having been sooner than was anticipated, and intelligence of the same having reached us on Sabbath last, the arrangements on the part of our citizens were not so complete or extensive as they would have been under other and more favorable circumstances. Upon the arrival of the President at the Mansion House he was addressed by Dr. Wishart, as chairman of the committee of reception, in a spirited and appropriate manner, to which the President responded, to the evident gratification of the large assembly of persons who were present. In the course of his remarks Colonel Polk alluded to the unbounded feeling of gratitude which filled his bosom for the distinguished partiality which had been extended toward him by his fellow citizens; to the great responsibility which that partiality had devolved upon him; to his implicit confidence in that power which controls the destinies of individuals as well as nations; to his determination to act for the best interests of our beloved country, and the vital importance of freedom of opinion and contrariety of sentiment among a Republican people. In concluding his remarks, the President expressed a strong desire to interchange congratulations with as many of our citizens, of all parties, as time and circumstances would permit. After the formal reception was completed the President was conducted into the Mansion House, and during the evening was waited upon by many hundreds of our citizens, from town and country, without party distinction. Many of the ladies of our borough, with the Principal, assistant teachers and young ladies of our Female Seminary, also, called upon Mrs. Polk, whose plain, dignified and fascinating deportment and intelligent conversation rendered her company exceedingly pleasant. Mrs. Polk has certainly not been too highly complimented, by the many notices which have been bestowed upon her, as a lady most admirably suited to the discharge of the peculiar duties which await her as the wife of the President-elect. On Tuesday morning at 9 o’clock the President and suite left our borough, in good health and spirits, for Uniontown, at which place they remained over night.”