If we were back in the 1920s right now, and you were planning a holiday meal, it would almost certainly not include chicken$unless you were either lucky or rich. Having chicken for holidays happens all the time today, but back then, chicken on the menu was either a sign of affluence or that you lived on a farm and had your own chickens. When Herbert Hoover was using "a chicken in every pot" as a campaign slogan back in the late 1920s, chicken was such a rare and expensive treat that people thought Hoover's promise was about as realistic as promising them pie in the sky. Few people believed that anyone could deliver on that promise.
All this changed because of a fortunate accident that happened near where Frank grew up on the Eastern Shore of Maryland. In 1923, when Mrs. Wilmer Steele, of nearby Sussex County, was ordering baby chicks for her laying flock, someone processing the order got a zero wrong. Instead of the 50 chicks she was counting on, Mrs. Steele received 500 baby chicks. She found herself faced with the twin problems of first, the expense of feeding so many birds, and second, the hassle of trying to sell more eggs than the market in Sussex County could possibly absorb.
The solution she came up with changed the eating patterns not just of Sussex County, but of most of the world as well. It also had a lot to do with Frank's future career. Up until then, chicken production was no more than an adjunct to egg production and when someone had chicken to eat, it was most likely a "spent hen," a tough old bird which no longer laid a sufficient number of eggs to pay her feed costs. Mrs. Steele transformed all this by deciding to sell all her extra baby chicks for meat when they were only a few months old and hadn't yet cost her too much in feed.
The young and tender meat from these birds made them an instant success. Consumers loved them, and Mrs. Steele discovered that raising chickens entirely for meat rather than for producing eggs, was a lucrative business.
Other egg producers, including Frank and his father, Arthur W. Perdue, eventually switched over to growing chickens for meat rather than for eggs. Progressive farmers like the Perdues were soon breeding their chickens for larger size, faster growth, and better conversion of feed to meat$something no one had thought about when chickens were grown only for egg production. As a result of this specialization, the poultrymen were able to bring the cost of chicken down far enough so that it became affordable for everyone.
These changes literally transformed our eating habits. In 1923, we Americans didn't consume a pound of broiler chicken per person in a year; today we're eating about 70 pounds each per year. And where once only the rich could feature chicken for a holiday meal, now everyone can and many do.
The holiday recipes that follow were developed by the Perdue home economists. You'll find them arranged by date, beginning with January. I've included the sample menus that accompanied the original recipes. My favorite among them is the Fourth of July menu that comes from Frank's family. CHINESE NEW YEAR CELEBRATION IS DO-IT-YOURSELF FEAST
I wonder if any nationality can compete with theChinese on the art of eating well. The last Empress ofChina, for instance, was known to order 200 dishes prepareddaily. From these, she chose two for dinner.
Even average Chinese families, when they can afford it, serve an array of dishes at meal time. I remember during one Chinese cooking course that I took, the teacher explained the philosophy behind having several$or even many$dishes at each meal. The idea is that the taste buds quickly tire of one taste-sensation and therefore, the meal is more enjoyable if you have many flavors and textures.
At celebrations such as those that welcome the lunar New Year, chicken plays an important role. Chicken represents renewal and rebirth, so it often appears in several different dishes. In China, the Oven Stuffer Roaster included here would be served complete with head and feet to symbolize completeness — but my husband isn't selling them that way right now, so I'm not going to be completely authentic! Other symbolic foods include oysters to represent good fortune, fish to symbolize plenty, and mein (noodles) to represent long life.
I don't really expect you to make all these dishes from scratch, so how about getting some of them canned or frozen from your supermarket?
CHINESE NEW YEAR FEAST Cold Platter of Prepared Meat and Fish (Abalone, Smoked Fish, Smoked Ham) Boiled Rice Oysters Egg Rolls Won Ton Soup *Stir Fry in Noodle Basket *Poached Soy Roaster *New Year Low Mein *Peking Cornish Hens with Scallion Sauce *Stir-Fried Vegetables over Chow Mein Noodles *Recipe follows POACHED SOY ROASTERServes 8-10 1 whole roaster 10 cups water 3 cups dark soy sauce 1 cup dry sherry 2 tablespoons sugar 1-1/2 teaspoons five-spice powder 4 slices peeled, fresh gingerroot Shredded cabbage (optional) Carrot curls (optional) Hot pepper flowers (optional) Remove giblets; set aside. Remove and discard fat from cavity. Tie legs together and fold wings back. In 8-quart kettle or Dutch oven, place roaster, breast-side down; add giblets and next 6 ingredients. Over high heat, bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and cover; simmer 30 minutes. Uncover and turn roaster over gently, being careful not to tear skin. Over high heat, return to a boil; cover and simmer over low heat for another 30 minutes or until leg joint moves easily and juices run clear with no hint of pink when thigh is pierced. Remove roaster and cool slightly; cut into small pieces. Serve hot, at room temperature or chilled, arranging on a bed of cabbage and garnishing with carrot curls and hot pepper flowers. Soy sauce mixture may be boiled and then passed as a dipping sauce. Note: Sauce mixture can be used over and over again. Skim off fat; refrigerate up to a week or freeze several months. Bring to a boil before reusing. STIR-FRY IN A NOODLE BASKETServes 8-10 1 boneless roaster breast, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 4 cups) 6 tablespoons soy sauce, divided 2 tablespoons dry sherry 2 tablespoons cornstarch, divided 4 scallions, cut into 1/2-inch slices (3/4 cup) 2 teaspoons minced fresh gingerroot 2 cloves garlic, minced 3 tablespoons cider vinegar 2 teaspoons sugar 2 teaspoons Chinese sesame oil 1/4 teaspoon Cayenne pepper 5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 3 cups broccoli flowerets (1 small bunch), blanched 1 1/2 cups sliced carrots (about 3), blanched 3/4 cup sliced water chestnuts 1 can (8-ounces) straw mushrooms, drained, or 1 can (8- ounces) whole button mushrooms, drained 1/2 cup dry roasted cashew nuts NOODLE BASKET (recipe follows) In large bowl, combine breast cubes, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, sherry, and 1 tablespoon cornstarch; toss until well mixed and set aside. On small plate, combine scallions, ginger and garlic; set aside. In small bowl, mix well remaining 4 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon cornstarch, vinegar, sugar, sesame oil, and Cayenne; set aside. In a wok or large, heavy skillet over high heat, heat 3 tablespoons oil until hot, but not smoking. Add breast cubes and cook, stirring quickly and frequently (stir-fry), 3 minutes. Remove breast cubes with slotted spoon. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to skillet and heat. Add onions, ginger and garlic; stir-fry about 30 seconds. Add broccoli, carrots, water chestnuts, mushrooms, and cooked breast cubes; stir-fry 2 minutes longer. Pour soy sauce mixture into skillet and cook 1 minute longer or until slightly thickened. Stir in cashews. Serve hot in noodle basket. Note: Dish may be made up to 1-1/2 hours ahead, but do not add cashews; add just before serving. Place mixture in oven-to-table serving dish; partially cover and reheat in preheated 3250F oven for 20 minutes. Or reheat in top of double boiler over hot water for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
PHOTO: Unusual presentation of chineese food in noodle basket NOODLE BASKET 1 package (8-ounces) spaghetti Oil for deep frying Cook spaghetti as package directs. Run cooked spaghetti under cold water; drain. Gently toss spaghetti with a little oil. Over index fingers, fold five or six spaghetti strands in half. Drape folded spaghetti over edge of 7- x 3-1/2-inch sieve, so that loops fall to outside of sieve and ends into center. Continue to place folded spaghetti (5 to 6 strands at a time) around edge of sieve. Intertwine ends of spaghetti in center to form a woven pattern that will make the noodle basket stronger and prevent spaghetti from separating during frying. Extra spaghetti can be added in center of sieve to reinforce pattern. When basket is complete, place another sieve on top to hold in place. In large saucepan, pour enough oil to cover sieve; over medium-high heat, heat to 375oF or until a small piece of spaghetti sizzles and turns golden when placed in oil. Submerge sieves, with spaghetti between, and deep-fry until noodle basket is lightly browned; remove and drain on paper towels. Makes 1 large basket or 3 small baskets (4 x 2-1/4) Note: To make smaller baskets, drape spaghetti over a sieve measuring 4 x 2-1/4-inches; repeat for 3 baskets. NEW YEAR LO MEINServes 8-10 water 5 tablespoons soy sauce, divided 3 tablespoons cornstarch, divided 4 roaster boneless thigh cutlets, cut into thin slices or strips 2 teaspoons Chinese sesame oil 1 teaspoon sugar 5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 1 cup chopped scallions (4-5) 2 cloves garlic, minced 3 cups sliced celery cabbage (1/4 medium head) 2 cups sliced celery (3 ribs) 2 cups carrots cut in julienne strips (3), blanched 2 cups sliced mushrooms (1/2 pound) 1 cup snow peas, trimmed, cut into 1-inch pieces 3 cups bean sprouts 3/4 cup sliced water chestnuts 3/4 cup bamboo shoots cut in julienne strips 1/2 pound fine egg noodles or thin spaghetti broken into fourths, cooked, rinsed and drained In medium-sized bowl, combine 2 tablespoons water, 2 tablespoons soy sauce and 1 tablespoon cornstarch. Add thigh pieces and toss until well coated; set aside. In small bowl, mix well 2/3 cup water, remaining 3 tablespoons soy sauce, remaining 2 tablespoons cornstarch, sesame oil, and sugar; set aside. In large skillet or wok over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons oil until hot but not smoking. Add thigh mixture; stir-fry over high heat 3 minutes. Remove thigh meat with slotted spoon; set aside. Heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil in skillet. Add scallions and garlic; stir-fry about 30 seconds. Add celery cabbage, celery, carrots, mushrooms, and snow peas; stir-fry over medium heat 5 minutes or until vegetables are tender-crisp. (Add 1-2 tablespoons water, if needed). Add bean sprouts, water chestnuts and bamboo shoots; stir-fry 2 minutes. Stir in thigh meat and spaghetti. Add cornstarch mixture and cook until sauce has thickened. Serve immediately. PHOTO: Create a meal in the Chinese tradition with fresh Cornish hens Peking-style, served with stir-fried vegetables PEKING CORNISH HENS WITH SCALLION SAUCEServes 4 4 fresh Cornish game hens 6 cups water 1/4 cup honey 4-1/4-inch-thick slices fresh ginger 4 skewers (approximately 8-inches long) Remove giblets. Pat hens dry. Bring water to a boil in large saucepan. When boiling, add honey and stir. One at a time, lower each bird into honey bath, quickly turning it completely over to evenly coat with liquid. Immediately remove and place a slice of ginger in each bird. Let hens dry on metal rack for 10 minutes. Place in roasting pan with wings folded back. Push tail into body cavity, then run skewer through meaty part of drumsticks underneath bone, skewering the tail. (If wood skewers are used, cover ends with foil to prevent burning.) Cook in preheated 350F oven for 1 hour until tender. Combine sauce ingredients and serve with hens. SCALLION SAUCE 1/2 cup soy sauce 2 tablespoons dry sherry 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice 1 teaspoon grated orange rind 1 teaspoon sugar 2 scallions thinly sliced Stir-frying is a classic Chinese cooking technique in which food is quickly cooked over high heat to retain flavor and crispness. In a wok or skillet, saute chopped broccoli, green beans, celery and bean sprouts in a small amount of peanut oil for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Flavor with soy sauce and serve. STIR-FRIED VEGETABLESServes 4 1/2 cup bias-cut bite-size carrot pieces 1/2 cup broccoli flowerets 1/2 cup bias-cut green beans 1/2 cup celery thinly sliced at an angle 1/2 cup snow peas 2-3 tablespoons peanut oil 1 clove garlic peeled and lightly crushed (optional) 1-1/4-inch thick slice fresh ginger (optional) Soy sauce to taste In a saucepan bring 1 quart of water to a boil, add carrots, and cook for 2 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold running water, then pat dry with paper towels. To a heated wok or iron skillet add 2 tablespoons peanut oil and optional garlic and ginger. When oil is hot, add well dried carrots and saute for 2 minutes. Quickly remove carrots with a slotted spoon and arrange on a serving platter, then continue in the same manner cooking the broccoli and green beans, each for 2 minutes and the celery and snowpeas each for 1 minute. Add more oil as necessary and remove garlic and ginger if they start to burn. When all of the vegetables have been arranged, sprinkle lightly with soy sauce and serve immediately. ELEGANT DINNER FOR TWO PHOTO CAPTION: On Valentine's Day, show your loved one you care by serving Cornish Hens Sheherezade and Tender-Hearts Salad.
There's a hearts and Valentines connection today that Great Grandmother never considered. Given what we now know about diet and heart disease, it's more true than ever that the way to a man's heart really is through his stomach.
In the case of my husband, I think it's certainly true. To be honest, Frank is not what you'd call a heavy duty romantic. On Valentines Day he does give me roses, but I've wondered if the flowers appear because his secretary, Elaine Barnes, puts him up to it. I also get a wonderfully romantic Valentine's card, but for all I know Elaine may choose it for him. In my heart of hearts, I think he enjoys Valentine's Day, but is more turned on by the health aspect of the menu that follows than with any flowers or valentines.
February has been celebrated as National Heart Month since 1962. What better time than February to pamper a loved one's heart — or your own — than the season for lovers? Here's a special February 14 dinner for your Valentine, one with an elegant menu for two that encourages love, devotion and good health.
To star at the meal, serve Cornish Hens Sheherazade, a romantic choice because fresh hens, like love birds, come in pairs. They also are low in calories, fat, cholesterol, and sodium. To surround the birds with beauty and good nutrition, you could make a brown-rice pilaf, sweet- flavored miniature vegetables, and a salad studded with deep-red beets cut in tiny hearts. For dessert? Try Forbidden Fruit Souffle. MENU *Cornish Hens Sheherazade *Curried Brown Rice Pilaf Miniature Vegetables *Tender Hearts Salad *Forbidden Fruit Souffle *Recipe follows CORNISH HENS SHEHERAZADEServes 2-4 2 fresh Cornish game hens 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (reserve shell) 2 teaspoons soybean oil 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin Ground pepper to taste, and salt, if you must Paprika to taste 2 small onions, halved 4 whole cloves 6 fresh or frozen baby carrots, lightly steamed 1/2 cup combined fresh or frozen baby peas and pearl onions, lightly steamed Curried Brown Rice Pilaf (recipe follows) Place hens in large shallow bowl. In small bowl, combine lemon juice, oil, ginger, cumin, pepper, salt and paprika. Pour into and over Cornish hens. Cover and marinate in refrigerator 30 minutes or longer. Preheat oven to 350F. Stick cloves into onion halves. Place 2 onion halves and 1/4 squeezed lemon juice inside each hen. Tie legs together and fold back wings. Sprinkle with pepper and paprika. Roast about 60 minutes or until juices run clear with no trace of pink when thigh is pierced. Serve hens with vegetables and Curried Brown Rice Pilaf.
CURRIED BROWN RICE PILAFServes 2 1 teaspoon soybean oil 1/3 cup chopped onion 1 teaspoon curry powder 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger 1/8 teaspoon ground cumin 1/8 teaspoon ground turmeric Ground pepper to taste, and salt, if you can't do without it Dash Cayenne 1/2 cup uncooked brown rice 1 tablespoon raisins (optional) 1 can (10-ounces) low-sodium chicken broth 1/2 cup water 1 tablespoon snipped fresh or frozen chives Preheat oven to 350F. In small, non-stick skillet over medium-low heat, heat oil. Saute onion and spices and salt, if you're using it, in hot oil for 2 to 3 minutes until tender but not browned. Stir in rice and raisins; remove from heat and set aside. In an ovenproof saucepan, over high heat, bring chicken broth and water to a boil. Stir in rice mixture; cover and boil 5 minutes. Place covered saucepan in oven and continue to cook 45 to 50 minutes until rice is tender and liquid has been absorbed. To serve, toss pilaf with chives. TENDER HEARTS SALADServes 2 1 can (8-ounces) low-sodium fancy sliced beets 2 teaspoons cider vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon soybean oil Ground pepper to taste Pinch ground cinnamon to taste 2 small heads Bibb or Boston lettuce with outside leaves removed 2 teaspoons snipped fresh or frozen chives Drain beets, reserving 2 tablespoons liquid. Using small heart-shaped cookie cutter or cardboard pattern, cut hearts out of beet slices. Prepare dressing: in small bowl, combine reserved beet liquid, vinegar, and mustard. Whisk in oil in a slow stream; season with pepper and cinnamon. Toss beets with dressing and set aside. Trim base of lettuce heads, if necessary, so they sit flat; gently spread leaves open like a flower. Carefully wash lettuce in cold water; pat dry with paper towels. On each of the two salad plates, place one lettuce head; arrange beet hearts decoratively among leaves. To serve, drizzle with dressing and sprinkle with chives. FORBIDDEN FRUIT SOUFFLEServes 2 2 large unblemished cooking/eating apples 1/2 lemon 1 cup unsweetened applesauce 2 teaspoons honey Ground cinnamon to taste Ground nutmeg to taste 2 tablespoons applejack or Calvados, divided (optional) 1 large egg white Confectioners' sugar Preheat oven to 375F. Lightly grease baking dish. Wash apples and, if necessary, cut a thin slice off bottom of each apple to make it stand upright. Cut a 1/2-inch slice off tops of apples. Using a small, sharp knife and a grapefruit spoon, hollow out apples, leaving a shell 1/4- inch thick. Rub inside and top edges of apple shells with lemon to keep them from discoloring. In small, heavy-bottomed saucepan over low heat, combine applesauce, honey, cinnamon, nutmeg and 1 to 2 teaspoons applejack. Cook, stirring often, until heated through but not boiling. In small bow, with mixer at high speed, beat egg white until stiff but not dry. Into medium-sized mixing bowl, pour hot applesauce. Add half the egg white; fold in with a rubber or wooden spatula. Add remaining egg white and fold in gently. Sprinkle inside of apple shells lightly with additional cinnamon and nutmeg. Place apple shells in prepared baking dish; carefully fill with applesauce mixture, doming the top. Bake in center of oven for 15 to 17 minutes or until souffles have risen and are very lightly browned on top. Remove souffles from oven and sprinkle lightly with confectioner's sugar. To flame souffles, in small saucepan, heat remaining applejack until barely warm. Using a long match, light applejack and pour over souffles. Serve at once.
PHOTO - DRUMSTICK CROWN ROAST - SPRING DRUMSTICK CROWN ROAST ADDS WHIMSY TO EASTER FEAST The symbols of Easter are happy ones, full of the joy of the day$spring flowers and spring greens, new clothes, cuddly animals and their chocolate look-alikes, jelly beans, fancy breads and cakes, colored eggs and Easter egg hunts. Catching the spirit of the day, Perdue Farms' home economists developed a playful main course to "crown" the Easter meal. It is a roast of drumsticks fashioned into an edible crown by baking them upright around a coffee can. When baking is complete, a corn bread stuffing that you make replaces the can. The technique is not difficult and the can actually helps brown the outside of the chicken. Pilaf-Stuffed Crown Roast With Herb Gravy could be the centerpiece to a Greek feast, including a classic Greek soup, artichoke casserole, and salad with feta cheese. Traditional touches such as a garnish of red-dyed hard- cooked eggs and luscious rich baklava from the bakery will add authenticity to the celebration. For an American-style meal, serve Cornbread-Stuffed Crown Roast of Drumsticks with Madeira Sauce. Either way, Happy Easter! MENU Hot Sherried Consomme *Pilaf-Stuffed Crown Roast of Drumsticks with Herb Gravy or *Cornbread-Stuffed Crown Roast of Drumsticks with Madeira Sauce Creamy Cole Slaw Maple Candied Sweet Potatoes Wilted Lettuce Salad Golden Chiffon Cake *Recipe follows PILAF-STUFFED CROWN ROAST OFServes 4-6 DRUMSTICKS WITH HERB GRAVY 10 roaster drumsticks 1 empty coffee can (12-16-ounces) with ends removed and outside greased Kitchen twine 1/3 cup olive oil Salt and ground pepper to taste 1 1/2 teaspoons minced, fresh oregano or 3/4 teaspoon dried, divided 1 1/2 teaspoons minced, fresh thyme, or 3/4 teaspoon dried 1/4 cup flour 1 clove garlic, minced 2 cups chicken broth or water 4 hard-cooked eggs, dyed red, optional garnish Fresh bay leaves, thyme, oregano and marjoram, optional garnish GREEK EASTER PILAF (recipe follows) Preheat oven to 375F. Place coffee can in center of a round 9- or 10-inch cake pan. Arrange drumsticks around can, narrow end up. With twine, tie drumsticks securely around the can in 3 places, starting at the middle, then bottom, then top. In a small bowl, combine oil with salt, pepper, one half of oregano, and 1/2 of thyme; brush onto drumsticks. Roast drumsticks for 1 hour, 10 minutes, basting halfway through cooking time with any remaining oil. Meanwhile, prepare Greek Easter Pilaf; keep warm. Using two spatulas, remove roast with can to a warm 12-inch platter or chop plate. Pour 1/4 cup pan juices into a small saucepan. Whisk in flour and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Add garlic, broth, and remaining oregano and thyme; bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Season to taste with salt and pepper; strain gravy into a warm sauceboat. To serve roast, spoon stuffing into coffee can. Carefully lift off can and gently press drumsticks against stuffing. Garnish, if desired, with dyed eggs and fresh herbs. GREEK EASTER PILAF 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter or margarine 1/2 cup chopped onion 1/4 cup pine nuts (pignoli) 1-1/2 cups converted rice 2-1/4 cups chicken broth or water 1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/4 teaspoon ground pepper 1/2 cup currants or raisins 1/4 cup minced, fresh parsley In a saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. Saute onion, pine nuts, and rice in hot butter for 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Stir in broth, salt, pepper, and currants and bring to boil. Cover pot with tightly-fitting lid; reduce heat to low. Cook rice 20 minutes or until tender. Fluff with a fork and toss with parsley. CORNBREAD-STUFFED CROWN ROAST OF DRUMSTICKS Serves 6 WITH MADEIRA SAUCE 10 roaster drumsticks 1 empty coffee can (12-16-ounces) with both ends removed and outside greased Kitchen twine 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter or margarine melted Salt and ground pepper to taste 1 teaspoon ground sage Dixie Cornbread Stuffing (recipe follows) 1/4 cup flour 2 tablespoons Madeira wine 2 cup chicken broth or water Preheat oven to 375F. Place coffee can in center of a round 9- or 10-inch cake pan. Arrange drumsticks around can, narrow end up. With twine, tie drumsticks securely around the can in 3 places, starting at the middle, then bottom, then top. In a small bowl, combine butter with salt, pepper, and sage; brush onto drumsticks. Roast for 1 hour, 10 minutes, basting halfway through cooking time with remaining any butter. Meanwhile, prepare Dixie Cornbread Stuffing, cover and bake in oven with roast during last 20 minutes of cooking time. Using two spatulas, remove roast with can to a warm 12-inch platter or chop plate. Pour 1/4 cup pan juices into a small saucepan. Whisk in flour and cook over medium heat 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Add Madeira and broth; bring to a boil, whisking frequently. Season to taste with salt and pepper; strain gravy into a warm sauceboat. To serve roast, spoon stuffing into coffee can. Carefully lift off can and gently press drumsticks against stuffing. DIXIE CORNBREAD STUFFING 1/4 pound lean bacon, diced 1/2 cup chopped onion 1/2 cup chopped celery 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter or margarine 1/2 pound fresh spinach, kale, or collard greens, cooked, well drained and chopped* 1 package (8-ounces) cornbread stuffing mix 1 cup chicken broth or water Salt and ground pepper to taste In a medium-sized ovenproof skillet, over medium heat, saute bacon, onion, and celery for 5 to 10 minutes or until bacon is cooked. Add butter and heat until melted. Stir in greens, stuffing mix, and broth; toss well. Season with salt and pepper. *Note: Or substitute 1/2 package (10-ounces) frozen chopped spinach, kale, or collard greens, thawed and drained.
MOTHER'S DAY DINNER — WITH LOVE FROM THE KIDS Photo: Chicken Bouquet is a centerpiece for Mother's Day. Mother's Day became a national holiday in 1914. Since then, it's a day of love and memories, with no gifts more appreciated than the "I made it myself" or "I cooked it myself" variety. I remember so well the fledgling attempts by my oldest child to cook for Mother's Day. Jose wasn't much more than a toddler when he got the idea on his own to make hot cocoa for a Mother's Day treat. While I was still in bed, he went into the kitchen, turned on the electric stove, and started to make the cocoa by setting a china cup full of water directly on the hot burner. I came into the kitchen just in time to prevent a disaster. As you can imagine, a quick lesson on kitchen safety followed. The Perdue Farms home economists want to be sure your kids don't have a similar close call and recommend that all kids be warned to stay away from the stove unless there's adult supervision. But assuming that there's an adult around to help, children can participate in making a wonderful treat for their mother. The recipe that follows is "a dinner bouquet for Mom." Grade school children and older can create a bouquet of chicken kebobs, helping to thread fruit and fresh boneless thigh meat on skewers and to "plant" them in rice. For younger children, even toddlers, Drumstick Blossoms are an easy alternate recipe in which drumsticks are rolled in Parmesan-flavored crumbs. Any age child can help scrub vegetables and spoon sherbet into orange cups. Teenagers can enjoy creating radish roses, making stir-fry rice, and scalloping orange baskets to hold sherbet. Editor's Note: Please see accompanying recipes and photograph.
Menu*Citrus Chicken Bouquetor*Drumstick BlossomsStewed TomatoesIdaho Baked Potatoes with Sour CreamSuccotashDinner RollsBerries and Cream
*Recipe follows CITRUS CHICKEN BOUQUET Serves 4 4 roaster boneless thigh cutlets 1/4 cup fresh orange juice 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon grated orange peel 2 cloves garlic, minced 1-1/2 teaspoon minced, fresh ginger or 1/2 teaspoon ground 2 medium-sized green peppers, cut into 1-inch squares 2 tangerines, peeled and pulled into sections 1 medium-sized clean, glazed ceramic flowerpot Garden Fried Rice (see recipe) or 5 - 6 cups cooked rice Cut chicken thighs into 1-inch chunks. In shallow bowl or non-metal container, combine orange juice, oil, soy sauce, honey, orange peel, garlic, and ginger; mix well. Cover and marinate chicken for 1 hour or longer, refrigerated. Drain chicken; reserve marinade. Preheat broiler. On each of four to six 12-inch skewers, alternately thread chicken, green pepper, and orange sections. Broil kebabs, about 5 inches from heat, for 10 to 15 minutes or until chicken is cooked through, turning occasionally and basting with marinade. To serve, spoon rice into flowerpot. Stand skewers in rice. Makes about 4 servings NOTE: Kebabs can also be barbecued on an outdoor grill. Cook over medium-hot coals for 10 to 15 minutes or until cooked through, turning occasionally and basting with marinade. DRUMSTICK BLOSSOMSServes 4-6 Children can make this Mother's Day "bouquet" of drumsticks. Served in a flowerpot it's whimsical and fun. 6 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1/3 cup seasoned bread crumbs 1/4 cup sesame seeds 1/2 teaspoon paprika Salt and ground pepper to taste 12 drumsticks 1 medium-sized clean, glazed clay flowerpot 1 small head Boston lettuce or green leaf lettuce parsley sprigs, optional Preheat oven to 375oF. Place butter in a baking dish. On wax paper, combine Parmesan cheese, bread crumbs, sesame seeds, paprika, salt, and pepper. Roll each drumstick in melted butter, then in crumbs until well coated. Arrange drumsticks in same baking dish, alternating direction of drums to accommodate all pieces. Bake about 45 minutes or until cooked through and golden brown. To serve, separate lettuce into leaves; wash and dry. Line bottom and sides of flowerpot with lettuce, allowing leafy edges to extend above rim of flowerpot. Place drumsticks, bone side down, on lettuce in flowerpot to resemble flowers. Garnish with parsley sprigs, if desired.
FRANK PERDUE'S FOURTH OF JULY MENU Frank has warm memories of his childhood, growing up on his father's poultry farm on the Eastern Shore of Maryland. He was part of the family business from the time he was so small "he had to hold an egg with two hands." Like any other farm family on Maryland's Eastern Shore, the Perdues did not often get to enjoy a tender young broiler; that was strictly springtime eating, when there were small birds to spare. The rest of the year, chicken dinner meant long, slow cooking of one of the venerable hens that hatched the eggs that were the family business. "If a holiday came along," says Frank, "we could be sure my mother's big cast iron kettle would come out and it would be time to cook up one of the older hens. That was great eating!" Here's the kind of Fourth of July menu that Frank grew up with. Since you probably don't have an old stewing hen, try an Oven Stuffer Roaster for the Eastern Shore Chicken with Slippery Dumplings. Roasters are old enough to have a lot of flavor, but young enough not to be too tough. If you're unfamiliar with slippery dumplings, they are more like noodles or won ton wrappers than conventional dumplings. Sweet Potato Biscuits are a typical accompaniment, and Frank is so particular about them that the first six months of our marriage, I probably tried ten different recipes before hitting on the one that accompanies the Eastern Shore Chicken recipe. Sweet Potato Biscuits are sweeter and chewier than the baking powder variety eaten elsewhere. Enjoy this Eastern Fourth of July feast. Menu *Eastern Shore Chicken with Slippery Dumplings Turnip Greens Corn on the Cob Zucchini Parmesan *Sweet Potato Biscuits Iced Tea Peach Cobbler *Recipe follows EASTERN SHORE CHICKEN WITH SLIPPERY DUMPLINGS Serves 6-8 Poached Roaster 1 whole roaster or 1 soup and stew hen 1/2 lemon 1 medium-sized yellow onion 2 whole cloves Salt and ground pepper to taste 6 cups chicken broth or more if desired Water 1 bay leaf 1 pound small white onions, peeled 1 pound carrots (about 6), peeled and cut into 1-1/2-inch lengths
Rub roaster inside and out with lemon. Cut onion in half and stick with cloves; place in cavity of roaster. Truss bird by lacing up cavity and tying legs together. Season with salt and pepper, and place in an eight-quart Dutch oven. Pour in chicken broth and enough water to reach halfway up sides of roaster; add bay leaf. Place over medium heat; bring liquid to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low. Cover and simmer, allowing 20 minutes per pound for a roaster and 40 minutes per pound for a hen. (To keep meat tender, do not allow to boil.) During last 45 minutes of cooking time, add onions and carrots. Roaster is done if juices run clear with no hint of pink when thickest part of thigh is pierced. (Hen should be cooked beyond this time to tenderize.) Remove bird and vegetables to serving platter and keep warm. Add more broth or water to poaching liquid, if necessary, to bring it halfway up sides of Dutch oven; bring to a boil. Meanwhile prepare dumplings. Slippery Dumplings 2 cups flour 1 cup warm water 1 teaspoon salt or to taste In mixing bowl, combine flour, warm water and salt. Turn onto a well-floured surface and knead dough 4 to 5 minutes until it becomes elastic; reflour board as necessary. Roll out kneaded dough as thinly as possible. With sharp knife, cut into 1-1/2 to 2-inch squares. Add to boiling poaching liquid and cook 5 to 7 minutes until "al dente." Remove dumplings to a serving bowl. Over high heat, cook poaching liquid until reduced and slightly thickened. For a thicker gravy, add a small amount of flour blended with cold water to poaching liquid. To serve, pour some gravy over dumplings; pass the rest separately. Carve roaster and serve with vegetables, dumplings and gravy. Note: You can substitute won ton skins for dumpling dough. A typical side dishes for this dinner would be greens sauteed with onion and a little salt pork.
SWEET POTATO BISCUITS Makes 12 to 15 This is how I cook sweet potato biscuits for Frank, with a minimum of salt. You may prefer the biscuits with a little more salt. 1 cup drained, canned sweet potatoes 1/4 cup syrup from canned sweet potatoes 2 tablespoons vegetable shortening 1 tablespoon sugar 1 cup flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste Preheat oven to 425F. Grease a baking sheet. Rice or mash potatoes until smooth; place in small saucepan and stir in syrup. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until just warm. Stir in shortening and sugar; mix well. In a mixing bowl, sift together flour, baking powder and salt. Stir in sweet potato mixture; mix well with wooden spoon or knead with hands for 1 minute. On floured surface, roll or pat out dough to 3/4-inch thickness. With 1-1/2 to 2-inch round biscuit cutter, cut out dough. Bake 12 to 15 minutes until golden on top and cooked through. Serve warm.
Columbus Day has been a national holiday in this country since 1971. Its first official celebration, however, dates to 1792, the three hundredth anniversary of the exploration that brought Columbus and a crew of 120 sailors to the New World. The 1792 celebration took place in New York City, where today's Italian-American population equals the population of Genoa.
The first Columbus Day celebration included a gala banquet$a thoroughly appropriate way to mark the event that changed the eating habits of the Old World forever. The enriching exchange of foods between the Old and New World affected all the cuisines of Europe, but none more than that of Italy. Imagine Italian cuisine without tomatoes or peppers or corn.
To many of us "eating Italian" is a favorite experience, and what could be a better excuse for a "festa Italiana" than "Cristoforo Colombo Day". Here's a complete menu for just such a holiday dinner. In fact, it could be two dinners, because there's a choice of main courses one with the color, spice and flare of southern Italy, the other with the rich creaminess of the North.
Because large numbers of immigrants came from southern Italy, especially from Naples and Sicily, lively southern Italian dishes are most familiar to Americans. These typically include tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, spices such as cinnamon, raisins, and olives. Layered pastas and pizza come from the South.
In the North, foods are lighter, more varied, and are frequently delicate in flavor. Many dishes call for butter, cream or cheese, and filled pasta and rice are also served. Chicken is suited to either style of cooking, and boneless Oven Stuffer Roaster thigh meat is as delicious with a spicy tomato sauce as with wine and cream. In all parts of Italy, fresh vegetables, fruit, and herbs are important. Columbus' own city of Genoa is most closely associated with the use of fresh basil.
Whether inspired by the North or the South, Columbus Day is a time to wave the flags, both our red, white and blue and the Italian red, white and green, and to salute Christopher Columbus with a meal to remember. REGIONAL ITALIAN COLUMBUS DAY MENU Antipasto *Brodo Genovese *Chicken and Eggplant Agrodolce Siciliana *"Rice Birds" Piedmontese in Wine and Cream Sauce Broccoli Florets Parmigiano Crusty Italian Bread *Coppa Cristoforo Colombo Cafe Espresso *Recipe follows BRODO GENOVESE: CHICKEN BROTH WITH PASTA, CHEESE AND BASILServes 6-8 7 cups homemade chicken stock or 4 cans (13-3/4-ounces each) chicken broth 1 cup small pasta such as tubetti (tiny tubes), farfalle (bow ties) or conchiglie (shells) 1/4 cup minced fresh basil or Italian parsley 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
In large saucepan or Dutch oven over high heat, bring chicken stock to a boil. Add pasta and cook until tender, stirring occasionally, about 8 to 10 minutes. To serve, ladle hot soup into bowls; sprinkle with basil and pass grated cheese.
CHICKEN AND EGGPLANT AGRODOLCE SCICILIANAServes 6-8 1 large eggplant (about 1-1/2 pounds), cut into 1-1/2 inch cubes 8 roaster boneless thigh cutlets Salt and ground pepper to taste 1/2 - 3/4 cup olive oil, divided 2 cups sliced red onions 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar or red wine vinegar 4 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 tablespoons honey Grated rind of 2 oranges 1 can (16-ounces) whole plum tomatoes, drained and cut into thin strips Minced, fresh parsley and basil (optional)
Sprinkle eggplant with salt; let stand 30 minutes to extract liquid; rinse and pat dry. Trim off any fat from thighs and cut into 2-inch pieces.
Preheat oven to 350oF. In large heavy skillet over medium heat, heat 2 tablespoons oil. Add chicken, half at a time; saute 2 to 3 minutes until lightly browned, adding more oil if necessary. Remove pieces with slotted spoon to large, covered casserole or baking dish. Add 2 to 4 tablespoons oil to skillet; stir in eggplant and cook 5 minutes until golden, adding more oil if necessary. Add to casserole.
Pour vinegar into skillet, scraping and stirring to remove pan glaze; add garlic, cinnamon, honey orange rind, and salt and pepper to taste. Pour vinegar mixture into casserole. Cover and bake 15 minutes. Stir in tomato strips, re-cover and bake 15 minutes longer. Garnish with minced parsley and basil, if desired. Serve with hot crusty Italian bread.
PHOTO: Roaster Thigh "Rice Birds" "RICE BIRDS" PIEDMONTESE IN WINE AND CREAM SAUCEServes 6-8 8 roaster boneless thigh cutlets Salt and ground pepper to taste 4 tablespoons butter or margarine, divided 2 tablespoons chopped onion 3/4 teaspoon minced, fresh rosemary or sage, or 1/4 teaspoon dried 2 ounces chopped prosciutto or ham 1 cup cooked rice 4 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese 1/2 cup (2-ounces) grated or diced Italian fontina or mozzarella cheese 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup chicken or beef broth 1/2 cup dry white wine 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon minced, fresh parsley Trim off and discard any fat and sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper. Place between 2 moistened pieces of plastic wrap; pound until about 1/4 inch thick.
In large heavy, oven-proof skillet over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Add onion and 1/8 teaspoon rosemary; cook, stirring occasionally, 2 to 3 minutes, until tender but not brown. Stir in prosciutto; cook 1 minute longer.
In small bowl, combine onion mixture, rice, and cheeses; season with salt and pepper to taste. Place 1 heaping tablespoon rice stuffing 1 inch from end of each pounded thigh. Roll up thighs into neat "packages", folding edges in over stuffing; tie packages with kitchen string.
In same skillet over medium heat, melt remaining butter with oil. Cook Rice Birds in butter-oil on all sides until lightly browned, about 8 to 10 minutes. Cover skillet and simmer 35 minutes. Transfer "birds" to serving platter; cut strings and keep warm.
Add broth, wine, and remaining rosemary to skillet, scraping bottom to incorporate any browned bits. Stir in cream; cook over medium-high heat until sauce is thick enough to lightly coat the back of a spoon. Return birds and any juices to skillet; cover with sauce and cook briefly just until heated through.
Arrange Rice Birds and sauce on serving platter and sprinkle with parsley. COPPA DA FESTA CRISTOFORO COLOMBOServes 8 Amarettini (small almond-flavored biscuits) or large Amaretti, crushed 1 pint each strawberry, vanilla and pistachio ice cream Amaretto liqueur (optional) Colored candy sprinkles or nonpareils 16 cocktail toothpick flags of Italy and USA (8 each)
For each serving: In bottom of large, stemmed glass, place 1 teaspoon Amarettini biscuit. Alternately scoop strawberry, vanilla and pistachio ice cream on top, sprinkling about 1 teaspoon Amarettini between each scoop. Pour a little Amaretto or other liqueur on ice cream, if desired. Top with sprinkles and insert a flag of Italy and USA. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Serve immediately or place coppas in freezer until ready to serve. PHOTO: Chicken Kebabs are tailgate party heroes PHOTO: Thanksgiving Roaster Nested in Sage Dressing takes an…
RECIPES OF OLD SOUTH ARE TODAY'S THANKSGIVING TREASURES Even before George Washington declared Thanksgiving a national holiday, its celebration had spread from Massachusetts Colony to all America. In the Old South, Thanksgiving could mean weeks of preparation, days of celebrating and a house that overflowed with guests. Modern times have inevitably relaxed some standards of southern hospitality, but not necessarily when it comes to setting a sumptuous table. Here's a Carolina version of a Thanksgiving bird. It's an Oven Stuffer Roaster complete with a nest of stuffing. The stuffing is cooked outside instead of inside, so it soaks up the pan juices and develops a lightly crusted surface. Several of Perdue Farms' home recipe testers tried the stuffing-nest method and found it not only wonderful eating, but an appealing presentation as well. THANKSGIVING DAY DINNER DELIGHT *Roaster Nested in Sage Dressing with Sweet Potato Puff *Creamed Giblet Gravy String Beans Almondine Creamy Cole Slaw Cranberry Salad Sour Dough Dinner Rolls Southern Pecan Pie *Recipe follows ROASTER NESTED IN SAGE DRESSING WITH SWEET POTATO PUFF AND CREAMED GIBLET GRAVY Serves 6-8 1 whole roaster Salt and ground pepper to taste 3 cups hot water 1 loaf (1-1/4 to 1/1-2 pounds) day-old white bread 1 cup chopped onion 1-1/2 cups chopped celery 1/4 cup minced, fresh parsley 1-1/2 tablespoons minced fresh sage or 1-1/4 teaspoons dried sage 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme 2 eggs 1 tablespoon butter or margarine Creamed Giblet Gravy (recipe follows) Preheat oven to 350F. Remove giblets and sprinkle inside of bird with salt and pepper. Tie legs together and fold wings back. Place roaster in roasting pan or baking dish along with giblets. Pour in 2 cups hot water. Roast 1-1/4 hours, basting occasionally with pan liquids. Meanwhile, prepare dressing: tear bread into 1/2-inch pieces; place in large bowl with onion, celery, parsley, 3/4 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, sage, and thyme. Mix well and set aside. After 1-1/4 hours, remove roaster from oven. Reserve giblets and pour 2 cups of pan juices through strainer into a medium-sized saucepan; reserve for gravy. Add water to remaining pan juices, if necessary, to bring liquid to 1-1/2 cups. Ladle into bowl with dressing mixture; add eggs and mix until thoroughly moistened. With hands, mold stuffing around outside of roaster to form a "nest." Brush butter over breast. Return roaster to oven; continue cooking 45 minutes to 1 hour longer or until dressing is cooked and lightly browned and juices run clear with no hint of pink when roaster thigh is pierced. If desired, serve nested roaster from roasting pan. Or run spatula under bird to loosen it and carefully transfer to heated platter, keeping dressing intact. Serve with Creamed Giblet Gravy. Creamed Giblet Gravy 2 cups reserved pan juices Reserved roaster giblets, chopped 3/4 cup milk 1/4 cup flour Salt and ground pepper to taste Chop giblets and add to pan juices; over medium heat, bring to a simmer. In small bowl, make a smooth paste of milk and flour. Whisk flour mixture into pan juices and continue whisking until gravy is thickened. Season with salt and pepper to taste. BOURBON SWEET POTATO PUFFServes 6 If you have a sweet tooth, you'll love this recipe. Frank does. 6 medium-sized cooked sweet potatoes or 1 can (40-ounces) sweet potatoes, drained 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter or margarine, melted 3 eggs 1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 to 2 teaspoons grated orange rind 1/4 cup bourbon 1 package (10-ounces) marshmallows Preheat oven to 350F. Butter a 1-1/2-quart souffle dish or casserole. Peel cooked sweet potatoes. In large bowl, combine potatoes with remaining ingredients except marshmallows. With electric mixer or food processor, beat or process until fluffy. Turn mixture into prepared dish or casserole; arrange marshmallows over top. Bake 20 minutes or until marshmallows are puffed and golden. PHOTO: Black & White - 3 Platters, 1 sm. bowl soup, 2 chopsticks CHANUKAH IS A FESTIVAL OF FUN AND FOOD Chanukah is a Jewish holiday, a day of remembrance, a festival of lights, and most of all, a family party that is celebrated during eight joyful days. Chanukah was first celebrated more than 2,100 years ago, following the defeat of the Syrian army by the Macabees. After driving the Syrians from Jerusalem, the Jewish temple was ceremonially cleansed. During the cleaning, a flask of oil belonging to the high priest was found. It contained enough oil to burn one night. Instead, it burned miraculously for eight days and eight nights. That is why a special eight-branch menorah (candlestick) is lit each Chanukah night at sundown, beginning with a single lighted candle on the first night and building to a full eight. As with all Jewish holidays, traditional foods are part of the celebration. Fried and sauteed dishes have special Chanukah significance because of the oil used in cooking them. Holiday Chicken Saute is a favorite meal in one family in which there are two small boys who still prefer fingers to forks. Their mother, who is a food consultant, once asked Frank what he thought of such table manners. His answer: "That's why we sell our drumsticks with built- in handles." With most of America's Jewish settlers having come from Eastern Europe, holiday foods served in that part of the world are most popular here. For Chanukah, this means crisp, brown potato latkes (Yiddish for pancakes). Latkes are usually served with fresh applesauce and dairy sour cream. Before the arrival of the food processor, hand grating the potatoes was a traditional pre-dinner part of the ritual, with everyone taking turns at grating potatoes — and sometimes knuckles. In Israel, fried jelly doughnuts are frequently served instead of latkes, and many Sephardic Jews (from Mediterranean countries), serve fried pastries unique to each country. Among them are Moroccan fichuelas. These crisp, honey-coated pastries are great fun to twirl in hot oil and shape into pinwheels - but beware of the little fingers near hot oil. PHOTO: Chanukah for Families FAMILY CHANUKAH SUPPER PARTY *Holiday Chicken Saute *Potato Latkes *Applesauce *Fichuelas De Chanukah *Recipe follows HOLIDAY CHICKEN SAUTEServes 4-6 6 chicken drumsticks 6 chicken thighs 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or chicken fat 3 small zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch slices 3 medium-sized carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices 1 large onion, sliced into rings 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons honey 1 lemon, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon salt or to taste 1 teaspoon paprika 1 tablespoon cornstarch 2 tablespoons cold water In large, deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, heat oil. Saute drumsticks and thighs in hot oil until lightly browned on all sides, about 15 minutes. Remove from skillet. To pan drippings, add zucchini, carrots, and onion; saute 3 minutes. Return chicken to skillet; Add lemon juice, honey, lemon slices, salt, and paprika. Reduce heat to medium-low; cover and cook 20 to 25 minutes longer or until chicken and vegetables are tender. In cup, place cornstarch; add water and blend to form a smooth paste. Stir into skillet and cook until slightly thickened. To serve, arrange chicken, lemon slices and vegetables on large platter; spoon sauce on top.
POTATO LATKES (Potato Pancakes) Serves 4-6 5 medium-sized raw potatoes 1 medium-sized onion, peeled 2 eggs 1/4 cup matzo meal or flour 1 teaspoon salt or to taste Vegetable oil for frying Wash potatoes; remove spots or blemishes with a small knife. Peel potatoes, if desired. With hand grater or food processor fitted with steel shredding blade, coarsely grate potatoes. Transfer to large bowl; cover with cold water and let stand 10 minutes. Drain potatoes in colander, pressing out excess liquid. Using hand grater or food processor fitted with steel blade, grate or chop onion. Combine drained potatoes, onion, eggs, matzo meal or flour and salt; mix well. (As mixture stands, more liquid will accumulate. Do not pour off liquid; stir mixture frequently to blend.) In large skillet, heat 1/4-inch oil over medium heat until hot. Drop potato mixture by tablespoons into hot oil; flatten slightly with spatula. Cook pancakes, a few at a time, until golden brown on both sides, turning once and adding more oil if necessary. Drain on paper towels. Keep cooked pancakes warm in preheated 200F oven while others are cooking. Serve pancakes warm, with applesauce. APPLESAUCEServes 4-6 Frank loves this recipe. He's normally not fond of Granny Smith apples, but he likes them cooked, in this recipe. 5 to 6 medium-sized tart apples (about 2 pounds) 2 to 4 tablespoons water 1 to 2 tablespoons sugar, to taste (optional) 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg Peel apples, if desired; remove cores and seeds. Cut apples into chunks; place in medium-sized saucepan. Add 2 tablespoons water, sugar if desired, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Over medium heat, bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low; cover and cook 20 to 30 minutes or until apples are very tender, stirring occasionally and adding more water if necessary. Remove from heat and stir until large lumps disappear and mixture is fairly smooth. If apples are used unpeeled, strain sauce in food press or mill to remove skin. Let stand until cool; refrigerate until ready to serve. FICHUELAS DE CHANUKAHServes 6 (Spiral-Shaped Sephardic Chanukah Pastries) 5 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt or to taste 2 eggs, slightly beaten 2-1/4 cups vegetable oil, divided 3/4 cup warm water 1-1/2 cups sugar 1/2 cup water In large bowl or container of food processor, fitted with steel blade, combine flour, salt, eggs, 1/4 cup oil, and 3/4 cup warm water. Stir or process until mixture forms a fairly stiff dough. On unfloured surface, knead dough 5 minutes until smooth and elastic. Divide dough into 4 parts; roll each into a ball and wrap in plastic wrap. Let dough stand 1 hour for easier handling. On lightly floured surface, roll out one ball into a 9 x 18-inch rectangle. Cut dough into 6 strips, each about 1- 1/2-inches wide and 18-inches long. In small saucepan over low heat, heat sugar in water until sugar is dissolved, stirring constantly; keep warm. In medium-sized saucepan over medium heat, heat 2 cups oil to 375F, or until small piece of dough sizzles when dropped in oil. With hand, gently lift one end of a dough strip; pierce the opposite end with a long-handled fork and twirl fork once to secure dough. Place dough, fork-end first; into hot oil. As dough fries, quickly and gently turn fork, rolling dough around to form a pinwheel. Fry dough until puffed and golden, about 30 to 60 seconds. (Do not brown.) Slip dough off fork; remove from oil with slotted spoon and immediately dip into warm sugar mixture to coat well. Cool completely on wire rack placed over waxed paper. Repeat with remaining dough. Makes 24 pastries FOR THE ROMANCE OF IT, SERVE A CHRISTMAS DINNER GEORGE AND MARTHA WASHINGTON STYLE
George and Martha Washington made much of Christmas. They had been married on the twelfth night of Christmas in 1759, and from that year forward they tried to be together for the holidays. (The exceptions were such occasions as Christmas 1776, when General Washington was busy crossing the Delaware.) Two of the food specialists at Perdue are history buffs as well, an they put together for Frank a Christmas menu based on "receipts" (as recipes were once called) for dishes that might have been enjoyed at Christmas dinner, two hundred years ago.
As they pointed out, even basic food supplies were very different two centuries ago. American waters were so abundant with crabs, oysters, shrimp and clams, that inventive cooks tossed them into soups and spreads, baked them "potted," "scalloped" or in loaves, and used them lavishly in sauces and stuffings. The oyster stuffing included in this menu is based on a specialty of George Washington's mother. She may have served it with passenger pigeon $common fare in those days. Although this wild bird is extinct today, Cornish game hens make tasty, tender, modern substitutes. And it is far easier to "bag a brace" or two of Cornish hens at the local supermarket than to stalk dinner in the wild.
Early Americans weren't partial to vegetables. They tended to overcook and under season them, then serve them up as a "mess of pease". But old-time cooks did make wonderful vegetable puddings and were superb at pickling and preserving their vegetables and fruits to serve all winter long.
From the beginning, American settlers distilled spirits. Even the stern Pilgrims (who considered the celebration of Christmas pagan) drank wine and cider for their health. After a festive holiday meal, most of our founding fathers probably enjoyed a few rounds of Madeira or Port. But Thomas Jefferson's favorite holiday drink was a spicy mixture of hot ale and rum, so heat producing it was called "a yard of flannel". Frothy syllabub was thought to be suitable for everyone, even women and children, and this rich drink was a delicious accompaniment to sweetmeats, stewed fruit, cakes or pies.
Though few would wish to return to cooking at the hearth and beehive oven, if you're smitten by the romance of the past, try serving special guests a Christmas dinner Martha Washington-style.
PHOTO: "An Early American holiday menu with Cornish hens" An Early American Christmas Dinner for Four Potted Crab *Cornish Hens with Oyster Stuffing Mount Vernon *Sherried Pan Gravy Savory Grated-Carrot Christmas Pudding Pickled Beet Salad *"Whipt" Syllabub with Sweetmeats *Recipe follows CORNISH HENS WITH OYSTER STUFFING MOUNT VERNON AND SHERRIED PAN GRAVYServes 4 4 fresh Cornish game hens Salt and ground pepper to taste 4 tablespoons butter or margarine, divided 6 oysters, shucked, coarsely chopped, and strained through a fine sieve or coffee filter (reserve oyster liquor) Pinch ground mace 3/4 teaspoon minced, fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried 1/4 cup chopped onion 2-3 slices day-old bread, cubed 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons dry sherry, divided Spiced or brandied fruit for garnish (optional)
Preheat oven to 350oF. Season hens inside and out with salt and pepper.
In medium-sized skillet over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter with 1/2 cup oyster liquor, mace and thyme. Add onion; cook 5 minutes until onion is tender and liquid is reduced to about 1/3 cup.
In medium-sized bowl, toss onion mixture with oysters, bread cubes, 1/4 teaspoon salt, 1/8 teaspoon pepper, lemon juice and 1 tablespoon sherry.
Spoon oyster stuffing loosely into hens. Tie legs together and fold back wings.
In a small saucepan, melt butter; combine with remaining sherry and baste hens with mixture. Roast hens, basting occasionally, about 1 hour and 15 minutes longer or until juices run clear with no hint of pink when thigh is pierced. Remove hens from roasting pan, cut strings, place on serving platter and keep warm. Pour pan juices into a heat proof measuring cup or small bowl. Skim off 2 tablespoons of clear yellow drippings that rise to the top and return to pan. Skim off any remaining yellow drippings and discard. Reserve degreased pan juices to add to gravy with broth.
If desired, serve hens garnished with spiced or brandied fruit. Serve with sherried gravy. SHERRIED PAN GRAVY 2 tablespoons reserved pan drippings 2 tablespoons flour 2 cups chicken broth or water 4 tablespoons dry sherry Place roasting pan over medium heat; add flour to reserved clear pan drippings and cook 2 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom to incorporate any browned bits. Stir in enough combined degreased pan juices, chicken broth and sherry to make 2 cups; simmer, stirring constantly, 2 minutes longer. Strain gravy into sauceboat. "WHIPT" SYLLABUBServes 4-6 3 tablespoons dark rum or Cognac 2 tablespoons sugar Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1 cup (1/2-pint) heavy cream Sprigs fresh rosemary (optional) Sweetmeats (see note) or stewed fruits
In large bowl, with mixer at medium speed, beat rum, sugar and lemon rind. Gradually add heavy cream, beating constantly until cream forms soft peaks. (Do not overbeat.) Cover and refrigerate until serving time.
When ready to serve, if liquids have separated, beat by hand to re-incorporate. Serve Syllabub in small cordial glasses, garnished with a rosemary sprig. Accompany with sweetmeats. (By the way, do you know what a sweetmeat is? It's any dainty little confection such as stuffed dates, chocolate truffles, sugared apricots and pears, or even candied watermelon rind.)