"Jesus Christ came down,From Heaven to Bethlehem;There, our Peace was born,Our Felicity, Light, and Good.Oh, blessed be God! Thanks be unto Thee, Lord,For Jesus the Saviour."
"Jesus Christ came down,From Heaven to Bethlehem;There, our Peace was born,Our Felicity, Light, and Good.Oh, blessed be God! Thanks be unto Thee, Lord,For Jesus the Saviour."
This hymn was set to a lively tune, and sung in marked, quick time, with great spirit and animation. In the evening Mr. Müller preached again at the same Church to a large, attentive audience.
On Dec. 30th we walked out with Mr. Gulick, who conducted us to one of thetwoCathedrals in Saragossa—the only city in Spain which has two Cathedral Churches. The architecture is Moorish, and some sculpture on the walls represents the martyrdom of a few of the early Christians, and that of St. Lawrence in particular, who, in the 4th century, was roasted to death on a gridiron over a slow fire, by the command of one of the Pagan Roman emperors. Though considered a Catholic by the Papists, it is said that he was a true disciple of Christ. Some poor devotees were worshipping at the shrines, to a few of whom we quietly gave Spanish gospel tracts; and a tract washanded also to a gowned individual, a verger or sacristan, with a wand of office, as he slowly wandered up and down the aisles, who looked at us gloomily, but accepted it nevertheless.
Our next visit was to the Cathedral of Nuestra Senora del Pilar, which contains an image of the Virgin and Child on a jasper pedestal, said to have come down direct from Heaven in the 1st century, and to have been brought by the ApostleJamesto Saragossa! To this image the most extravagant miracles are attributed. Many persons were kissing the pillar and crossing themselves, whilst others, dispersed about the Cathedral, were kneeling on the stone pavement before various images of saints. Whole regiments of soldiers, too, come in to kneel, bow, cross themselves, and perform their devotions before the different shrines. Oh! how responsible arewe, who possess the pure gospel of the grace of God, to make it known to poor idolators like these. In order to form a correct idea of the degrading superstitions, the debasing idolatry of Popery, there is nothing likewitnessingthese things in a country such as Spain, where the Roman Catholic religion appears to be of a grosser type than it is in Protestant countries. Our last remaining tract was slipped into the hand of a worshipper, kneeling upon a stone step before an altar.
Besides these two Cathedrals, Saragossa contains many curious old Moorish houses and ancient monuments, including the Aljaferia, now a fort, but formerly a Moorish palace. As we walked through the streets, almost everyone turned round to have a good look at us as strangers; and occasionally some children followed close behind, desiring to have a thorough gaze at the walking curiosities from a foreign country.
In the evening, Mr. Müller preached again at Mr. Gulick's Church, and on the following morning (Dec. 31st) we rose at half-past 4, in order to start early for Madrid. The journey was extremely tedious, and, after stopping at every one of the 35 stations, in the evening, at 10 o'clock, we reached our destination, where Mr. Fenn (an English missionary) was kindly waiting to receive and to conduct us to the Fonda Peninsular, near the Puerta del Sol, about two miles from the station. The next morning (Jan. 1st, 1879), at 10 o'clock, a procession passed along the street consisting of boys carrying lighted tapers; soldiers, priests, and men bore a large figure of the Virgin, robed in crimson satin, with a crown upon her head; whilst a small image of the Saviour was carried immediatelybehindit. The men in this procession were bareheaded, and all the passers-by took off their hats.
In the evening, at a coffee meeting at Chamberi, Mr. Müller addressed a gathering of Spanish Christians, with translation by Mr. Fenn. On the afternoon of Jan. 2nd, we attended a meeting of Christian Workers, to whom my husband gave a short address, and in the evening he preached at Chamberi. At a gospel service held the following Sunday morning at Chamberi, he preachedagain; spoke in German in the afternoon at Pastor Fliedner's Church, and in the evening preached at Chamberi a second time, with translation into Spanish. The next day a meeting of school teachers was held at Mr. Fenn's house, where Mr. Müller gave them a short address, and in the evening he attended the first of a series of prayer meetings at Mr. Fliedner's Church.
On Jan. 7th, we inspected the five schools—three at Chamberi, and two in another part of Madrid—which are supported by the funds of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution, and are under the care and superintendence of Mr. and Mrs. Fenn, where it was gratifying to find the dear children (contrary to custom, as their Christmas holidays were scarcely over) assembled in considerable numbers to see the strangers from England, whose presence seemed to afford them great delight. After visiting the three Chamberi schools, which are admirably conducted, all the children formed one assembly in the Chapel, where Mr. Müller addressed them for about twenty minutes, with translation by Mr. Fenn. He spoke also to the children of the two other schools. Sheets of paper, containing texts and short addresses, beautifully written, were presented to us by the pupils at Chamberi. On our way back to the hotel, we passed an open piece of ground, where, several years ago, large quantities of human bones were disinterred, the remains of victims of the Inquisition, about 130 Protestants having been burned alive there in formertimes, as an "auto da fé," by their enemies, the Papists. Here the hand of a young girl was found, with a large nail driven through it; tresses of long hair were discovered, and other revolting evidences were brought to light of the cruelties that had been perpetrated. We visited the Plaza Mayor also, a large Square inOldMadrid, where, centuries ago, Jews, Protestants, and criminals, all dressed in hideous garments, and high, pointed caps, were brought before their judges; by whom, after sentence of death had been pronounced, they were sent to the spot above mentioned, near Chamberi, and there burned alive.
On the evening of Jan. 9th, at a united prayer meeting of the Evangelical Alliance, Mr. Müller gave an address on prayer, and spoke at Chamberi also, at a prayer meeting the next evening. On the 11th, we visited Mr. and Mrs. Fenn's interesting Orphan Institution; on the morning of Sunday, the 12th, my husband preached at Chamberi, and in the evening addressed a large English congregation at a Hall connected with the residence of the Presbyterian minister. This Hall, and the premises connected with it, at one time formed a portion of the Spanish Inquisition.
On the afternoon of Monday, Jan. 13th, at a quarter before 5, we left Madrid for Bayonne, and at 7 reached the Escurial—both palace and monastery in one; which, on account of the lateness of the hour, could be seen very indistinctly. We passed Avila also, a town enclosed byancient granite walls 800 years old, which has 86 towers and gates, and is considered the finest specimen of a walled town in Europe. Valladolid was reached at midnight; and soon after 6, on the 14th, as the day began to dawn, we arrived at Vitoria, where the mountainous, picturesque character of the country formed an entire contrast to the plain on which Madrid is situated. For many miles we travelled through the Passes at the western extremity of the Pyrenees, and went through tunnel after tunnel, until, at 10.15, the train drew up at San Sebastian, a town on the Bay of Biscay, besieged by the British army under Wellington in 1813; where numbers of English soldiers, who fell during the war on the Peninsula, lie interred. The last stations in Spain were Irun and Hendaya; and, after travelling close to the Bay of Biscay, where great rolling waves were dashing in upon the shore, at half past 1 p.m. we reached Bayonne.
On the afternoon of Jan. 15th, at a little meeting held at the house of Monsieur Nogaret, pastor of the Reformed Church, Mr. Müller spoke in French for three quarters of an hour; and afterwards we walked to the fortifications, from which the district between Bayonne and the frontier could be seen—a locality memorable as the scene of the struggle between Wellington and Soult in the year 1813. On the 17th we went to Biarritz, a beautiful watering place on the Bay of Biscay, six miles from Bayonne, where the rocky coast lies open to the full sweep of rollersfrom the Bay. There, at 2 o'clock, in a large salon of the Hôtel de France, Mr. Müller held a meeting for the English, of whom he addressed a considerable number, for an hour. At half past 3 we returned to Bayonne, and at 5.20 left by rail for Pau in the Pyrenees. There, on the following Sunday (Jan. 19th), my husband preached morning and afternoon in English at the Presbyterian Church, to large congregations, with much help from the Lord. On the evening of the 20th, he conducted a French service at Le Temple, and preached the following morning in German at the Presbyterian Church. He held English meetings also at this Church every morning (except Saturday) throughout the week.
Pau is famous for its mild, genial climate, its beautiful scenery, and for being much resorted to by visitors—especially the English—of whom, during our stay, there were about 2,000 in the place. The Chateau of Henry 4th is joined by three bridges to the town. On the morning of Sunday, Jan. 26th, Mr. Müller preached a farewell sermon at the Presbyterian Church and held a French meeting in the evening for the working classes, at a large Hall.
On the 27th, we left Pau for Bordeaux, about 150 miles distant, where, at the Chapelle Evangélique, he held two French meetings. An address was also given by him at a Hall belonging to the "Union Chrétienne de jeunes gens," and on the 29th, we went to the Asylums of La Force, of which the late Mr. John Bost was theFounder and Director. After a journey of 70 miles we reached our destination, and in the afternoon accompanied Mr. Bost in a small omnibus belonging to the Institution, to visit his Asylums, which are situated at some little distance from each other. They are eight in number. "La Famille Evangélique is for Orphan girls of all ages. Bethesda is an asylum for girls infirm or incurable, blind, or threatened with blindness, idiot, imbecile, or of feeble intellect. Ebenezer is an asylum for epileptic girls. Siloam is for boys infirm or incurable, blind or threatened with blindness. Bethel is an asylum for epileptic boys. Le Repos is for invalid governesses, infirm school mistresses, widows or spinsters who are ill or without resources. La Retraite is for servants, widows or spinsters, who are ill, infirm, or without means of support, and afflicted with incurable diseases; and La Miséricorde is for idiot girls who have lost all intelligence; also for epileptics, who are idiot and infirm." After we had inspected these deeply interesting, and most Christ-like Institutions, a very large gathering of the inmates who were well enough to attend, assembled at "La Famille," where Mr. Müller addressed them for three quarters of an hour; for though the community is so afflicted as awhole, a meeting was hailed by them with delight, many of the patients being intelligent, and some of the epileptics even, persons of sound mind, when not suffering from their dreadful fits. The next day, at half past 2, another service was held at "Le Temple" (theChurch of the Institution) where upwards of 400 individuals assembled; and as Mr. Bost would not hear of a translation—because, said he, "Monsieur Müller, est admirable"—my husband addressed this large company for an hour and a quarter in French. Afterwards we drank tea at "La Famille," and returned by railway in the evening to Bordeaux. [Since our visit to these Asylums, their beloved Founder and Director, Mr. Bost, has departed to be with Christ. "Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord; they rest from their labours and their works do follow them."] On the afternoon of Jan. 31st, at the Chapelle Evangélique, Mr. Müller held his fourth and last meeting in the city, and at 6.50 we left by the night express for Cannes. Toulouse was reached in the middle of the night; the next morning we stopped atMarseilles, and proceeded along the coast of the Mediterranean, until (after a journey of 480 miles) at a quarter to 1 p.m. we arrived at Cannes.
There, on Sunday, Feb. 2nd, Mr. Müller preached in the morning at the German, and in the afternoon at the Presbyterian, Church; gave an address on the 4th, at the Eglise Evangélique, held another meeting at the German Church the following afternoon, and continued his labours every day until the 12th, when he spoke in French at the Eglise de la Rédemption, in the evening. On the 13th, he preached at the Presbyterian Church, and on the 14th gave a farewell address in English at the Eglise de la Rédemption.
During our stay at Cannes, we visited "Les Orangers"—large plantations of orange and lemon trees, laden with ripe fruit—and greatly enjoyed the climate of that delightful place.
On Feb. 15th we left Cannes, and, just before our departure, received a little parcel, containing an ivory paper-cutter, with a slip of paper on which these words were written—"For dear Mr. Müller from one of his former Orphans, and wishing both Mr. and Mrs. Müller, God speed." At half-past 2 we arrived at Nice, where, on the following afternoon (Sunday) my husband preached in English at the Presbyterian Church, held a meeting in the evening at the Vaudois Church, and continued to conduct services in English, French, or German during the remainder of our stay, including a meeting at the Presbyterian Church on the 26th, when he preached in English, to a large congregation on the second coming of Christ. Whilst we were at Nice, the whole town was in a state of excitement from the Carnival, for which that place is noted. During our walks, to and from the meetings, we met troops of individuals in masks, dressed in extraordinary costumes, who danced along the streets, and made merry with anybody and everybody who happened to come across them; but by promptly branching off into back streets,we(happily) escaped their notice altogether. The popular idea seems to be that, just before the austerities of Lent commence, a season of extravagance, folly, and amusement is particularly appropriate. That children and young peopleshould be tempted to indulge in such diversions, is not perhaps surprising; but how persons of mature age can take delight in making suchfoolsof themselves, is really most astonishing. We heard a Christian gentleman from London lamenting greatly that the English too—Protestants—who might be expected to set a good example to their Catholic neighbours, were amongst the foremost in these amusements.
On Feb. 21st, we visited Monaco, one of the most beautiful spots along the whole coast of the Mediterranean. It is notorious, however, for its gambling saloons, which lead many who frequent them both to temporal and eternal ruin. Suicide was said to be a common thing also amongst the votaries of those gaming tables.
On March 1st we left for Mentone, 24 miles from Nice, where Mr. Müller preached at the Hall of the Free Church of Scotland, at the Eglise Française, and at the German Church, to large congregations; and continued to hold meetings daily as long as we remained. As on Sunday mornings the little Hall of the Free Church was crowded, its doors and windows were left open; several persons therefore sat outside in the balcony, on chairs, and amongst the number was Mr. Spurgeon, who attended three meetings. Whilst at Mentone, we had the pleasure of seeing and driving out with him occasionally. One afternoon, the Turin road leading to Castiglione, was selected for our route, where, whilst slowly winding up hill in anopen carriage, surrounded by magnificent scenery, Mr. Spurgeon said:—"When in the midst of landscapes such as these, from the crown of my head to the sole of my foot, I feel as though I could burst out into one song of praise."
On the morning of March 11th, at the Free Church Hall, my husband gave a farewell address. At 3.50 that afternoon we left Mentone for Ventimiglia on the Italian frontier, and proceeded afterwards to Bella Vista, Bordighera, the residence of Mrs. Boyce, two miles distant from the station. In the evening Mr. Müller preached at a small church in Bordighera (built by Mrs. Boyce) with translation into Italian by Signor Malan, a young Italian pastor. The congregation consisted of the children belonging to Mrs. Boyce's schools, their teachers, and some country people from the neighbourhood, most of whom were Roman Catholics. This little church at Bordighera was then the only centre of real Christian influence throughout a very extensive district, as there were no other ItalianProtestantservices between Bordighera and Genoa. On the following morning, we visited Mrs. Boyce's schools, and at half past two, Mr. Müller held a drawing-room meeting for English residents and visitors, at Viletta Aurelia, where, for upwards of an hour he addressed a large company of gentlemen and ladies. On March 13th we accompanied Mrs. Boyce in a carriage to San Rémo, on the coast of the Mediterranean, nine miles distant; and there, in the large drawing-rooms of VillaTheresa, at 2 o'clock; he held a meeting for the English also, which was crowded with gentlemen and ladies. He spoke with great power; the hearers were all attention, and one lady said afterwards—"I was never so much interested in my whole life." This meeting was an important one, as many present were always under ritualistic teaching, and never heard the pure gospel preached. In the evening, at half-past 6, we left San Rémo by express—reached Genoa at 11, and the next day at 1.10 p.m. set off for Pisa, when our route through Spezzia and near Carrara extended along the coast of the Mediterranean, through scenery of the most beautiful description. At 7 o'clock we arrived at Pisa, and the next morning, before our departure for Florence, saw the exterior of its celebrated leaning tower, 180 feet high, and 13 feet out of the perpendicular, built in the year 1174, by Bonanno of Pisa.
As our object was to reach Florence, we did not remain either at Genoa or at Pisa, but simply passed through those cities on the way. At noon, therefore, on March 15th, our journey was continued; and at 3 in the afternoon we arrived at Florence, where, at the station, we were received by some Christian friends, with—"A warm welcome in the Master's name." The next day (Sunday) we attended a meeting for the breaking of bread at a Hall in Via San Spirito, which, with an ante-room adjoining it, was crowded. There, Mr. Müller spoke for nearly an hour,with Italian translation by Signor Rossetti; and in the evening, preached at the Vaudois Church. During our stay at Florence he held a number of other meetings also, including services at two Italian Churches—one in Via Palazuolo, and the other in Via dei Benci—a meeting at the Chapel of Dr. Comandi's Asilo in Via Aretina, an English service at the Presbyterian Church, a meeting at the French Swiss Church, with Italian translation, a service at the Methodist Episcopal Church in English with Italian translation, and a drawing-room meeting at Dr. Young's, where he addressed the students of the Theological Seminary, their professors, several pastors, and a number of gentlemen and ladies. He held a second drawing-room meeting also at Dr. Young's, and had a Bible reading at the house of the Presbyterian minister. On most of these occasions, there were large, attentive audiences. A few days after the service at the Italian Church in Via dei Benci, a gentleman said—"God be praised for the glorious meeting you had. I was there, and enjoyed very much your powerful testimony." During our stay at Florence, we looked with interest at the exterior of the prison where Francesco and Rosa Madai were confined, and had a good view of the city and neighbourhood from an elevated spot called the Piazza Michel Angelo.
On the morning of Wednesday, the 6th of March, we left Florence for Rome, and arrived there in the afternoon at a quarter before 5. The next morning at a prayer meetingin Via San Nicola da Tolentino, Mr. Müller gave his first address in Rome. On the 28th, he held a meeting for Christian Workers in Via delle Coppelle; spoke at the Brethren's Hall at a meeting for the breaking of bread on Sunday morning, the 30th, and preached in the evening at Mr. Wall's Chapel. On the 31st he conducted a service at the Oratorio Evangelico, and subsequently preached at various places of worship including the Tempio Evangelico, the Presbyterian Church, the Waldensian Church, the Sala Cristiana, the American Baptist Chapel, the Italian Free Church, a Hall in Via della Scrofa connected with the Tempio Evangelico (where a service for Italian soldiers was held), the Italian Free Church, and the Wesleyan Chapel.
During our stay in Rome, we visited the Catacombs. There are about 60 in all, which extend in various directions, outside the walls of the city. "They consist of subterranean excavations, which served as places of refuge and worship to the earliest followers of the Christian faith, during the persecutions they had to suffer under the predecessors of Constantine, and where, after death, many thousands were interred, from the earliest period of Christianity to the sixth century of the present era."
We visited St. Peter's also, the Vatican, drove along the Via Appia, by which the Apostle Paul entered Rome, and saw the Arch of Titus. The Coliseum (which originally accommodated 87,000 spectators) is likewise a remarkable ruin. "The caverns in which the wild beasts wereconfined are still in existence, and the gladiatorial spectacles, of which for nearly 400 years it was the scene, are matters of history. In the reign of Trajan, Ignatius was brought there from Antioch, on purpose to be torn in pieces by wild beasts; and great numbers of martyrs perished on its arena." The Basilica of the Lateran—which we visited also—was long regarded as the first of Christian Churches, and styled by an inscription at the entrance, "The Mother and Head of all the Churches in the world!" One of the sights of Rome, too, is the Scala Santa, where eleven penitents were ascending a long flight of 28 marble steps upon their knees. This Scala Santa is the celebrated staircase up which Luther, before his conversion, was once working his weary way, when these words, "The just shall live by faith," seemed to reach him like a voice from heaven.
Before our departure from Rome, we visited the Basilica of San Paolo likewise, a vast marble Cathedral, erected on the spot where—according to tradition—the Apostles Peter and Paul embraced each other before they were led away to execution—the former to be crucified with his head downwards, the latter to be beheaded.
The Church and Monastery of the three Fountains, the Baths of Caracalla, the Columbaria—remarkable ancient burying places for the remains of the dead, after they had been burned to ashes—the Pantheon, the Column of Trajan, the Arch of Septimus Severus, some curious oldaqueducts, the ruins of the palaces of the Cæsars, and other famous antiquities, we also saw; but the sights of Rome are so numerous and celebrated, that no minute description of them can be attempted, especially as our visits to those just mentioned were most brief and hasty, compared with the time usually devoted to them by strangers. The ruins of Rome—once proudly called the "Eternal City"—plainly show "that the fashion of this world passeth away, and the lust thereof." "He (and heonly) who doeth the will of God, abideth for ever." What a blessed thing it is to have "noabiding City" here, but to look for "the City which hath foundations, whose builder and maker is God."
On April 9th, we went to Naples, where, the following morning, at the Chiese Metodista, Mr. Müller addressed about 100 Christian Workers, including pastors, evangelists, colporteurs, Sunday School teachers, leaders of Mothers' Meetings, etc.; and in the evening (by particular request) he held a service in the Bethel Mission ship, for the English seamen of Naples, amongst whom were a few sailors from Bristol, who had expressed a desire that he should address them. On the following evening he preached at the Presbyterian Church, in English, to a large congregation; and, during our stay at Naples, held a number of other meetings, including services at the Chiese Evangelica, the Italian Free Church, the Waldensian Church—where he preached in French, with Italian translation—the Chiese Cristiana Apostolica, the Wesleyan Methodist Chapel, the Methodist Episcopal Church, and the German Church. He addressed a large class of young ladies also at a school, both in English and in German.
During our stay at Naples, we visited the ruins of Pompeii, 14 miles distant, "a city which was partially overthrown by an earthquake, on Feb. 5th,a.d.63, and destroyed by an eruption of Vesuvius, Aug. 24th,a.d.79. Pompeii was overwhelmed by showers of pumice stones and ashes, no current of lava having ever reached it; but through the excavations that have been made, a large portion of the city has been disinterred. Many of the houses still standing, were probably built before, or during, our Saviour's life on earth." We saw the ruins of Herculaneum also, a city destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius ina.d.79, when it was destroyed by torrents of volcanic mud.
The Solfatara, a semi-extinct volcano near Naples, is a remarkable locality; and the spot where the Apostle Paul, after touching at Rhegium, first landed in Italy, was particularly pointed out. We likewise saw the road along which he travelled on his way to Rome, of which the ancient pavement, composed of massive blocks of lava, in some places is still perfect.
On April 21st—accompanied by Mr. Gray, the pastor of the Presbyterian Church, who kindly acted as our guide—after driving through Naples, Portici, and Resina, weslowly ascended the slopes of Mount Vesuvius, which is about 30 miles in circumference at its base; and, whilst going up the steep incline, marked a gradual decrease of vegetation, until great lava fields, consisting of immense black boulders, and enormousquantitiesof lava, cooled, and hardened into the most fantastic shapes, were reached. At 2 o'clock we alighted at the Hermitage, and afterwards walked towards the eruptive cone, but made no attempt to reach its top. The distant view, however, was very beautiful, and the surroundings on every side were grand. A Museum at the Observatory contains a valuable collection of minerals from Vesuvius, some volcanic bombs, and a few curious scientific instruments, amongst which is an "eisograph" for measuring the duration and violence of earthquakes, so constructed that the precise time of their duration can be measured with the greatest accuracy. Before leaving the Museum, we heard that a gentleman, whilst in the act of mounting the cone of Vesuvius, had just died suddenly of apoplexy, brought on by over exertion during its ascent; and a short time afterwards several men passed us carrying his corpse down the mountain in a chair. He appeared to be about 45 years of age, and was sitting upright, with his head hanging over the left shoulder. His countenance was deadly pale, and life was quite extinct. The sight was both solemn and affecting.
On the evening of April 24th, my husband gave a farewell address in English at the Presbyterian Church, whenat the close of the service, Mr. Gray, on his own behalf and that of the congregation, publicly expressed his gratitude for "Mr. Müller's valued ministry" amongst them. Our visit to Naples was a very happy one, and the meetings were of a most important character.
The next morning we rose at 4, to leave by an early train for Rome, but our stay there was a short one only. That evening Mr. Müller preached at Mr. Wall's Chapel to a large congregation, and the following evening held a meeting at the American Episcopal Church. On Sunday morning, April 27th, he gave an address at the Brethren's Hall, and preached at the Sala Cristiana in the evening from Heb. xi. 24, 25, 26—a solemn farewell sermon.
On the 28th we went again to Florence, and when he had held six meetings in that city (including a service at Dr. Comandi's Institution, where, on May 2nd, he addressed the children of the various evangelical schools in Florence), on the morning of the 5th we left, and, after crossing the Appenines, reached Bologna in the afternoon. There he preached in French, with Italian translation, that evening and the next, at Monsieur Roland's Church to crowded congregations.
On May 8th we went on to Venice; passed through Ferrara, Padua, and other places on the way; and, after travelling by rail through the watery district by which the city is surrounded, reached our destination in the evening, where, instead of an omnibus, a gondola was waiting forpassengers, in which we were rowed along several canals, to the Hotel Danieli. That evening, at 8 o'clock, Mr. Müller preached at the Vaudois Church, and at the Methodist Episcopal Church the next evening. He held two other meetings also, whilst we remained at Venice, one of which was in English at the American Consul's house; but his labours in this city were shortened considerably, in consequence of the inability of Monsieur Meille, the Italian pastor (who was suffering seriously from a throat affection), to translate.
Venice, from being full of canals and nearly surrounded by the sea, is one of the most extraordinary cities in the world. During our brief sojourn there, two or three little voyages in gondolas enabled us to form some idea of the place. "This city is built upon piles, on three large and 114 small islands, formed by 150 narrow canals, and crossed by 380 short bridges. The islands and city upon them are in a shallow lagune of the Adriatic. Palaces and houses,oncemagnificent, line the banks of the Grand Canal, which is two miles and a half in length, and the "Bridge of Sighs" connects the Palace of the Doges with the prisons that belong to it; but the whole city bears marks of a grandeur that has passed away, and its fame and glory are of a bygone character. Venice is divided into two unequal parts by the Grand Canal, which is crossed near the middle of its course by the Ponte di Rialto, a marble bridge of one single, spacious arch. Thecity contains upwards of 4,000 gondolas. From the top of the Campanile (a square tower 316 feet in height) an extensive prospect is obtained, embracing the Alps, the Adriatic, the Istrian Mountains, and Monti Euganei, near Padua."
On May 15th, early in the morning, we left for Breschia, and, after passing through Padua, Vicenza, and Verona, reached Peschiera, close to Lago Garda, one of the beautiful lakes in northern Italy. After our arrival at Breschia, Mr. Müller preached that evening at the Vaudois Church, from John i. 29. Amongst his hearers were several Roman Catholics, and some officers and soldiers belonging to a regiment in the city. He held another meeting, also, the following evening at the same church, and after the service we distributed little Italian books amongst the people, which were gratefully accepted.
On May 17th we left for Milan, and from there proceeded by an evening train to Como, where, at the Vaudois Church, he preached four times, with translation into Italian. Here the congregation consisted of poor country people; and great was the interest with which they listened to a preacher, who told them that he was a poor man himself. Everything he needs (they were told) is obtained by prayer and faith, and his wants are made known to his Heavenly Father only. On May 20th we spent a few hours at Bellagio, 16 miles distant, one of the most beautiful places on the Lake of Como; and the nextday returned to Milan, where Mr. Müller preached at the Wesleyan Church, with Italian interpretation, in the evening. During our stay, he held meetings also at the Italian Free Church, the Brethren's Room, the Vaudois Church, at an Italian Church in Place Charles Beccaria, and at a Protestant Church in Rue Agnello. On the 28th (by invitation) he held a drawing-room meeting at the British Chaplain's house, and the next evening preached in German at the Vaudois Church, not being able to address the Germans in their own place of worship, because their pastor was a neologian. On our way to and from the meetings, we passed Milan Cathedral (built of white marble from the Simplon) repeatedly. Next to St. Peter's at Rome, and Seville Cathedral, it is the largest church in Europe. These splendid Cathedrals, however, are all Popish, and the religious services carried on in them are full of the grossest idolatry and superstition.
On May 31st, we left Milan for Turin; and after Mr. Müller had conducted three services in that city, on Tuesday, June 3rd, set off for an excursion through the Waldensian Valleys, which contain a Protestant population of about 26,000, whereas Turin has only between 800 and 900Protestantinhabitants. The journey from Turin to Pignerola was performed by rail; but at the latter place we took an open carriage, and drove to Villa Sèche, a village inhabited principally by Protestants. During the drive, we passed several mountain torrents, saw the distant Alps,and drove for miles close to the river Chison, which was rushing over its rocky bed with a loud noise, down a steep incline into the Valley. The whole of this district is extremely interesting, because for hundreds of years it has been inhabited by the Waldenses, who, in the 16th and 17th centuries, on account of their faithfulness to Christ, were cruelly persecuted by the Papists; and, as their attachment to the reformed faith brought many sufferings upon them, they were compelled to flee from their beloved homes to any hiding place that afforded them a refuge. The two principal Waldensian Valleys are St. Martin and Luzerne, which contain 15 parishes; but the houses in them are scattered, and being at a great distance from each other, the members of the little Churches are obliged to walk many miles in order to attend the meetings. These Waldensian Christians are generally very poor, and many of them live in houses roofed with rough, flat stones loosely put together, instead of slates or tiles. In the windows, too, of a few of their abodes, paper occupied the place of glass. At Pomaret some of the people were standing at their doors to gaze at us, because our visit was expected; and as we drove along "Monsieur le pasteur Georges Müller" had many respectful bows and salutations. At five o'clock we reached the house of the pastor at Villa Sèche, and in the evening accompanied him to his Church, a very ancient Vaudois place of worship, situated at a great height upon a mountain, many hundredsof feet above his residence. A steep, rugged, winding pathway, covered in places with loose stones, led up this mountain towards the Church; and as some rivulets streamed over the ascent, it was difficult to avoid getting ankle-deep in water. The silence and solitude of the whole region, too, were striking. At length, warm, tired, and almost breathless, we reached the Church, a large, old-fashioned building, which was crowded with a rustic congregation, who (the meeting having been announced for 5 o'clock, though circumstances did not allow of our getting there till 7) had been sitting there two hours, patiently waiting our arrival. The service, which was in French, was opened with singing and prayer, after which Mr. Müller addressed the audience for an hour, throwing himself heart and soul into their circumstances. At the close of the meeting we distributed little French and Italian books amongst the people; shook hands with many of them; and soon after 9 reached the pastor's cottage down below, a Swiss châlet, with a projecting roof, and two wooden galleries outside. In this mountain home the domestic arrangements were of the simplest, most frugal character possible, many of the comforts and conveniences of life (often considered indispensable) being wanting; but we were most kindly entertained, and greatly enjoyed our little visit.
The next morning we took a drive to Perrier, two miles further up the Valley, and called upon the village pastor.Underneath his house were two "souterrains," or caverns where, in the last century, some Vaudois Christians were imprisoned, and left to starve, by their bitter enemies the Papists. By the light of a candle we explored these subterranean cavities; but as the ground was covered with water, it was necessary to step carefully on blocks of wood. Some snow covered mountains were afterwards pointed out, where, during the last century, 80 Vaudois women with their infants were obliged to pass the night whilst escaping from their cruel foes; but, when morning came, they were discovered in a semi-frozen state, and most of them perished eventually through the severity of the cold.
In the afternoon we drove to La Perouse, where a night's lodging was proposed for us at the Hospital; we decided, however, upon going to the "Hôtel National," a little Italian public-house, but found the accommodation most uncomfortable, and that no one understood a word of French. At 4 o'clock a meeting was held at the Vaudois Church, Pomaret, when Mr. Müller preached in French to a large, attentive audience. On the morning of June 5th we visited St. Germain, seven miles from La Perouse, at which place he addressed a large congregation of poor people in French at 10 o'clock for three quarters of an hour. At one we set off again in the little open carriage; and, after a drive of eleven miles, reached La Tour, the largest Vaudois settlement, and the principal Protestantstation in the Valleys. In the evening, at St. Jean (three miles from La Tour), Mr. Müller preached at a schoolroom, belonging to the Church, in French, where a large congregation, including several gentlemen and ladies, had assembled. Here, at the close of the service, the pastor prayed—"Que le discours excellent de notre frère soit gravé sur nos c[oe]urs"; and another gentleman afterwards remarked—"Monsieur Müller nous a dit précisément ce qu'il nous faut; le sermon était admirable."
On the afternoon of June 7th, we visited the "Orphelinât des Vallées Vaudoises," a small Orphan Establishment for 50 girls, in a delightful situation, just outside La Tour. The Directrice conducted us through the various departments of the Institution, where cleanliness and order reigned supreme; for all the back, out-of-door premises, yards, courts, etc., were so beautifully neat and clean, as well as the schoolrooms and the dormitories, that we asked whether this was because visitors were expected. The reply, however, was: "Les départments sont tous les jours comme vous les voyez maintenant." The garden too was admirably kept. It contained an abundance of vegetables and fruit trees; vines were gracefully trained against a wooden paling surrounding the enclosure, and a few flowers were cultivated in beds. After visiting the different departments of the institution, the Directrice conducted us to a schoolroom, where all the girls were busily engaged with needlework. They rose as we entered,Mr. Müller spoke to them for a few minutes; and, when they had sung a hymn, we took leave of the interesting party.
On the evening of that day my husband preached at the Ecole de Saint Marguerite; on Sunday morning, June 8th, he held a French meeting at "Le Temple," and in the afternoon we went to an old Church at Chabas, built by the Vaudois Christians, after the persecutions, from which they suffered so long, had in a great measure terminated. Here, the building was crowded to the utmost, and Mr. Müller's address in French (which occupied an hour) was listened to by the audience with the greatest interest. At the close of the service, Monsieur Pons (one of the pastors) was deputed "to express the best thanks of the Christians of that locality to Mr. George Müller for his timely and most acceptable visit to the Valleys, and to express their gratitude to him and to Mrs. Müller for coming amongst them."
Having finished our little tour of 125 miles in the Waldensian Valleys, on June 9th we returned viâ Pignerola to Turin. There, on the evening of that day my husband held a meeting at the Italian Baptist Church, and on the following evening at half past 8 preached a farewell sermon at the Tempio Valdese Evangelico.
On Thursday, June 12th, at 9 a.m., we left Turin; crossed the Alps, viâ the Mont Cenis Tunnel, and after a long, tedious journey reached Dijon at midnight. Thenext day our journey was continued; and at half past 4 we arrived in Paris. There, on Sunday, June 15th, Mr. Müller preached twice in French—at the Chapelle Malesherbe, Rue Roquépine in the afternoon, and at the Eglise des Billettes in the evening. On the 17th we went on to Calais and Dover; proceeded to London on the 18th, and in the evening at half past 6 reached Ashley Down, Bristol, where, as usual, a warm welcome from the Orphans and numerous kind friends awaited us. This long Continental tour was abundantly marked by the goodness of the Lord throughout the whole of its duration, and is always remembered by us both with feelings of the deepest gratitude. On June 24th we went to London for the Mildmay Conference, where Mr. Müller spoke on four different occasions. At Cheltenham (where we stayed from June 30th to July 2nd) he preached twice, and subsequently held two meetings at the Guildhall, Bath. He preached once also at Clevedon.
After remaining ten weeks in Bristol, where Mr. Müller attended daily to business connected with the Orphan Houses and the other branches of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution, and was occupied with his usual ministry of the Word at the three Chapels with which he is connected; having seen it to be the Lord's will that he should again visit the United States, on Wednesday, August 27th, 1879, we went to Liverpool, and, on the following afternoon, sailed in the "Germanic" for New York. During the first few days of our voyage, we had very rough weather; but, when the wind abated, the sea became calm, and our passage was a favourable one upon the whole.
On Friday evening, Sept. 5th, at the request of the passengers, my husband gave an address in the saloon, and on the 6th, at 4.20 p.m., we landed at New York.
There we stayed at the Rossmore Hotel until Sept. 20th, but Mr. Müller did not commence his work before theevening of Sunday, the 14th, when he preached at the Methodist Episcopal Church, South Second Street, Brooklyn, about six miles distant. Here, the pastor of the Church (who longed so earnestly for the conversion of sinners, that he described his desire for their salvation as "a consuming fire" within him) introduced the preacher to his congregation by making the following original remarks:—"My dear Friends, I rejoice to tell you that we are about to hear the gospel from the heart and lips of our venerable friend, who, though now aged 74, has preached the gospel upwards of 1,400 times during the last four years, in the various cities and countries he has visited. Hear this, you young men, and remember that he is no smoker, nor lover of alcoholic drink; but see how God can strengthen for His blessed service, those who trust in Him, and seek to live to His honour and glory. I have now great pleasure in introducing to you Mr. George Müller, of Bristol, England." After this opening speech, all eyes (as may be supposed) were fixed upon the preacher, who took Isaiah iii. 10, 11, for his text, and was enabled to speak with great faithfulness and power.
The following evening we went to Newark, nine miles distant, when he preached at one of the churches to a German congregation, held a German meeting at New York on the 16th, preached at Newark in English the next evening, and on the 18th and 19th conducted services in German at New York.
On Sept. 20th, we left for Morristown, New Jersey, where he held several important meetings, and at Drew Theological Seminary addressed the students—91 in number—for an hour and ten minutes. About nine months afterwards, one of the hearers (a gentleman who has since become the pastor of a church) told us, the blessing he had received, through this address, was so great, that he had experienced something like a second conversion by means of it. He added, that about one half of the other students also were similarly blessed upon the same occasion.
On Sept. 26th we returned to New York, and proceeded thence, viâ Po'keepsy and Albany, to Troy, 157 miles distant, where, at the "Climbers' Rest," (a house standing on a steep hill in a beautiful situation, the residence of a gentleman who had kindly invited us to be his guests) we remained during our stay. At Troy Mr. Müller preached several times to crowded congregations, and on the 29th attended a meeting of about 80 pastors from the city and neighbourhood, whom he addressed for an hour and a quarter. He visited Troy Orphan Asylum also, spoke to the children, and held one meeting at Lansingburg. On Oct. 4th we went to Albany, and proceeded afterwards to Saratoga Springs (a beautiful and salubrious spot, much frequented by the Americans) at both of which places my husband preached repeatedly, and gave addresses at pastors' meetings likewise. His last service at Saratoga Springs was held at the First Baptist Church, on the eveningof Oct. 14th, when he preached from 1st Thess. v. 16, to a large congregation. The meeting was a very precious one.
On the 15th we left Saratoga Springs, early in the morning, and travelling viâ Schenectady, Utica, Rome, and Syracuse, arrived at Dr. Foster's Sanatorium, Clifton Springs, 175 miles distant, in the evening. As this establishment is a Christian centre, much resorted to by the Lord's people from various parts of the United States, we remained there until the 23rd; and, during our stay, Mr. Müller conducted family worship every morning in the Chapel belonging to the Institution. He preached in the evening also, to congregations consisting of invalids, visitors, and persons from the neighbourhood. On Sunday evening, Oct. 19th, his subject was the second Advent, on which he spoke for an hour and a quarter with great liberty, earnestness, and joy, breaking out during his discourse into fervent prayer that "Christ would graciously revive the Church, and arouse His slumbering Bride, to look, and watch, and wait for her absent Lord's return." The solemnity with which he spoke was particularly noticed, and the subject was one in which many took a lively interest.
From Clifton Springs we went on to Rochester, where he preached at St. Peter's, the Plymouth, the First Presbyterian, and the Baptist Churches; and on Sunday evening, Oct. 26th, at the large Brick Church, addressed an overflowing audience, when more than 1,000 people were unable to obtain admittance.
On Oct. 28th we went, viâ Niagara Falls, to Hamilton, Canada, on the shores of Lake Ontario, and afterwards to Brantford, at each of which places Mr. Müller held several meetings. At Hamilton also, at the Music Hall, he addressed the inmates of a Blind Asylum (71 in number), and at Brantford, besides visiting an Institute for the children of North American Indians, to whom he spoke, called upon the widows at a Widows' Home, and addressed them likewise.
On the 8th we left Brantford for Toronto, where, in the afternoon at Shaftesbury Hall, he addressed 400 Sunday School teachers, and held a meeting in the evening for 200 young men belonging to the Young Men's Christian Association. He preached also on the morning of Sunday, the 9th, at Sherbourne Street Methodist Church, addressed a Bible class at Shaftesbury Hall in the afternoon, and preached for an hour in the evening at Knox Presbyterian Church, to about 1,500 persons. On Oct. 10th he gave two addresses (in the afternoon and evening) at Shaftesbury Hall, and one address every afternoon in the week besides; preached on the morning of Sunday, the 16th, at the Central Presbyterian Church, and on that evening and the next, addressed large audiences at the great Metropolitan Church, which holds 3,000. On the former of these occasions the building was crowded to overflowing.
On Nov. 19th we rose at 5, and at 7.12 set off on a journey of 333 miles, by "through express" for Montreal (a city which contains a population numbering upwards of100,000 Papists, and only about 50,000 Protestants), where we arrived at 9 o'clock that night. There Mr. Müller preached every evening in the week, and twice on Sunday until our departure. His ministry (we heard) was highly valued in that city, and many spoke of blessing received by means of it.
On Nov. 29th at 4 o'clock, we left for Ottawa, the capital of the Dominion of Canada, 117 miles from Montreal, where we arrived at half past 9, and on the following day (Sunday) my husband preached morning and evening at the Tabernacle to large congregations. During our short stay at Ottawa, the cold was intense, and there were heavy falls of snow, but we took a drive to the Chaudière Falls, and saw the residence of the Marquis of Lorne, Governor-General of Canada. From Barrack Hill, which rises almost perpendicularly to an elevation of 350 feet, the prospect was extensive, and the beauty of the scenery in the neighbourhood of Ottawa is said to be unrivalled. In the neighbourhood of the Falls the frost work was remarkable, and the icicles (several feet in length) formed quite a picture.
On Tuesday, Dec. 3rd, we left Ottawa for Brockville, Ontario, and on the 5th proceeded to Kingston, at each of which places Mr. Müller held meetings. At Kingston, on Saturday morning, Dec. 6th, he addressed the students of Queen's College, and in the evening preached at the Methodist Episcopal Church. On the morning of Sunday,the 7th, he held a meeting at the First Congregational Church, and in the evening addressed an overflowing audience at a mass meeting in the City Hall, where hundreds were unable to obtain admission.
On Dec. 8th he preached again at the City Hall; gave an address at a pastors' meeting on the morning of the 9th, and in the afternoon returned to Toronto, 170 miles from Kingston, where we arrived at 11.15 that night. There, having been particularly invited to attend the Conference meetings at Shaftesbury Hall, on the following morning (Dec. 10th) we were present at the opening prayer meeting, when the Hon. Vice-Chancellor Blake was President. From 10 to 11 Mr. Müller gave an address on "The inspiration of the Scriptures," and was followed by the Rev. W. J. Erdman of Jamestown, New York, who spoke from 11 to 12 on thestudyof the Bible; a subject upon which he threw out several valuable hints. He spoke, for instance, of the importance of reading the Holy Scriptures with a humble, teachable,receptivemind, prepared to set aside notions, thoughts, and prejudices of our own; to believeallthat God reveals; and tocarry outthe light received. In the afternoon, Mr. Robert Cameron of Brantford spoke, on the second Advent, dwelling upon thegloryof that period, when the kingdoms of this world shall become the kingdoms of our Lord and of His Christ; and remarked that, in apostolic times, young converts, at the very outset of theircourse, were instructed in the precious truth of His personal return, to which the Scriptures so largely and so definitely point. He reminded his hearers also of the instruction given by the Apostle Paul to the Thessalonians, namely:—"That the day of the Lord shall not come, except there come the apostasy first, and the man of sin (the personal Antichrist) be revealed, the son of perdition, whom the Lord shall consume with the Spirit of His mouth, and shall destroy with the brightness of His coming." Mr. Cameron was followed by Mr. Müller, who spoke from 4 to 5 upon "Christ in all the Scriptures;" and in the evening there were addresses to Christian Workers from Messrs. Erdman, Macleod, Parlans, and others.
On the morning of the 11th, the attendance at Shaftesbury Hall was large, and Vice-Chancellor Blake again occupied the chair. After half an hour had been spent in prayer, the Rev. E. Harris, of St. Thomas, addressed the meeting; the Rev. P. Macleod of Stratford spoke afterwards, and an address from Mr. Erdman brought the morning service to a close.
In the afternoon Mr. Müller's subject was "The Second Coming of Christ," when he gave an outline of the chief events that will precede and accompany that glorious event, and dwelt upon many important truths connected with it. He spoke for an hour and 20 minutes. After Mr. Erdman had followed with his subject, "No Millennium until Jesus comes" (for which here was very littletime), "Down life's dark vale we wander, Till Jesus comes" was sung with great animation, and the meeting terminated.
In the evening, from 8 to 9, Mr. Müller spoke again upon the second Advent, when he expounded Daniel vii., and in the course of his address made practical remarks connected with the subject, which took up so much time, that Mr. Erdman (as before) was able to say a few words only, on the topic allotted to him; but, as this dear brother in the Lord, possessed a gracious, Christ-like spirit, he only said—"I rejoice that Brother Müller should take the lead, for I feel like Timothy standing by the side of Paul." As Mr. Erdman subsequently gave us a few interesting particulars about his own conversion and experience which are instructive, for the benefit of others, it may be desirable to record them here.
When quite a boy, he was an ardent lover of his Greek Testament, and used to read it habitually long before he reallybelievedthe truths which the precious book contained; but, through his constant study of it, became at length a true disciple of the Lord Jesus. Some time after his conversion, however, when the pastor of a church, he, like many of his brethren in the ministry, was so thoroughly opposed to the doctrine of Christ'spre-millennialadvent, that he debated publicly against it. Still, from his early youth he had always been a great lover of the simple word of God, apart from human teaching, and now in the course of his study of the Greek Testament, was led to seehis standing in Christ more clearly than he did when first converted. He found that, by trusting in Jesus, he was pardoned and justified, that he was "Accepted in the Beloved"; and whilst rejoicing in a full assurance of his own personal salvation, this thought began gradually to steal into his mind—"Ought I not in the same way to takesimplyandliterally(whenever it is possible to do so) all the statements both in the Old and New Testaments that point to thepersonal return of the Lord Jesus Christ, and throw light upon that great event?" This single ray of light he diligently followed, and his study of the prophetic word eventually led to his becoming ascertainthat the second coming of Christ will be pre-millennial, as he is of any other truth revealed in the Holy Scriptures.
On Dec. 12th, the Rev. Arthur Burson presided at the Conference, when addresses were given by Vice-Chancellor Blake and other brethren. The subject for the Vice-Chancellor was—"Watch"; the Rev. J. Salmon's, "Man, as seen in the Old and New Testaments"; Mr. Erdman's, "Eternal Life"; and in the afternoon at Shaftesbury Hall, Mr. Müller replied in public, to nine written questions that had been handed in, one of which was this—"Are we to expect our Lord's return atany moment, or that certain events must be fulfilled before He comes again?" His answer was—"I know that on this subject there is great diversity of judgment, and I do not wish to force on other persons the light I have myself.The subject, however, is not new to me; for having been a careful, diligent student of the Bible for nearly fifty years, my mind has long been settled on this point, and I have not the shadow of a doubt about it. The Scriptures declare plainly, that the Lord Jesus willnotcome until the apostasy shall have taken place, and the man of sin, the "son of perdition" (or personal Antichrist) shall have been revealed, as seen in 2nd Thess. ii. Many other portions also of the Word of God distinctly teach, that certaineventsare to be fulfilled before the return of our Lord Jesus Christ. This does not, however, alter the fact, that thecoming of Christ, and not death, is the great Hope of the Church, and, if in a right state of heart,we(as the Thessalonian believers did) shall 'serve the living and true God,and—wait for His Son from Heaven.'"
In the evening Mr. Müller spoke for 40 minutes on "Walking with God," some valedictory addresses from the Vice-Chancellor and other brethren followed, and after singing—"Till He come, oh let that word," etc., the President requested "Our dear brother, Mr. Müller, to give the benediction," when the happy Toronto Conference terminated.
During his concluding remarks, Vice-Chancellor Blake expressed his surprise that pastors and servants of Christ, who minister in word and doctrine, take so little notice of the second Advent, as nearly "one third of the Bible, either directly or indirectly, points to it." By most ofthem the subject is ignored; but "Christ crucified, Christ risen, and Christcoming,"shouldbe their theme. One important feature in the Toronto Conference was—that instruction was given as to the character of the dispensation in which we live. How important it is to understand that there will benouniversal blessingnow, but that thevery oppositeof this is to be expected; for iniquity will abound andincrease, in the professingChurchas well as in the world, until at last "the man of sin will be revealed the son of perdition, whom the Lord shall consume with the spirit of His mouth, and shall destroy with the brightness of His coming." How earnestly should we seek to walk and to actnow, as in the light of the great day of Christ's appearing!
On Sunday morning, Dec. 14th, Mr. Müller preached at Elm Street Methodist Church; and at the great Metropolitan Church, addressed an immense congregation in the evening, from John xiv. 16, 17. His subject was the indwelling and power of the Holy Ghost, and he concluded his sermon with a word of warning to believers not to grieve the Spirit. The unconverted were also solemnly reminded, that—"If any man have not the Spirit of Christ, he is none of His." That evening we heard from Mr. Clarkson (pastor of theSherbourneStreet Methodist Church) that on Sunday morning, Nov. 9th, when my husband preached for him, there were several conversions amongst his congregation. Referring also to himself, hesaid—"Your ministry, under God, has greatly quickened me."
On Saturday morning, Dec. 20th, we left Toronto, and went, viâ Hamilton and Niagara Falls, to Buffalo, on the shores of Lake Erie, in the United States, 120 miles distant. There, on the following day (Sunday), Mr. Müller preached at the Westminster Presbyterian Church in the morning, and at the Central Presbyterian in the evening, where there was a "union service." During our visit to Buffalo, he held meetings also at the Hall of the Young Men's Christian Association, at Prospect Avenue Church, the North Presbyterian, First Baptist, and Lafayette Street Churches, at St. Peter's (a large German Church which was crowded to the utmost with a mass meeting of Germans, 2,000 being present) at the new Church of the Evangelical Association, and at Calvary Presbyterian Church. On Dec. 30th, at a meeting for pastors, he addressed about 50 for an hour and 10 minutes, who received him most affectionately, and on Jan. 4th, 1880, preached again at St. Peter's in German to a vast audience of 2,000. In addition to his English services, he held four large German meetings altogether.
On Jan. 5th we left Buffalo, and returning through Niagara Falls and Hamilton, went viâ Paris, to Woodstock, Canada, where, during our short stay, my husband preached at the Baptist, Knox, and Methodist Churches, and gave an address at the Baptist College to the students.During our stay at Woodstock, a pastor from Hamilton related to us the following interesting circumstance:—
Several years ago John and Thomas Gain of Hamilton (two orphan lads) were converted through going to a Sunday School, which they had been in the habit of attending, and some time afterwards "George Müller's Life of Trust" was given to them. In consequence of reading this book—having determined to begin business for themselves, and to carry it on by prayer and faith, according to the principles therein so strongly advocated, they began to manufacture paper bags, with addresses printed on them of the men of business by whom the bags were ordered. Desiring, however, to adhere closely to their principle of trust in God, they were most careful to avoid undertaking orders that involved any departure from it, and allkindsof business upon which they could not confidently ask His blessing. This path of faith resulted in prosperity, for the Lord so blessed them, that they became comparatively rich. John Gain, who has since departed to be with Christ, died triumphantly; but his brother Thomas is still living, and continues to carry on business at Hamilton. The gentleman who related these particulars, knew them both well, as they were formerly members of the church of which he was the pastor.
On Jan. 10th, we left Woodstock, and went to London, Ontario, where, the next morning (Sunday), Mr. Müller preached at Queen's Avenue Methodist Church, and thatevening and the next addressed large audiences at St. Andrew's. After this last service we were introduced to several persons, amongst whom was the Rev. Josiah Henson, a venerable negro, with a pleasant expression of countenance, and white hair, who shook hands with us most cordially. This was "Uncle Tom," the hero of "Uncle Tom's Cabin," a well-known character to many.
During the remainder of our short stay at London, Mr. Müller held a few other meetings; and on Jan. 17th we left Canada for Detroit, Michigan, United States, where, on the afternoons of Sunday, the 18th, and Monday, the 19th, he preached at Fort Street Presbyterian Church; and on the evening of the latter day, at St. John's, a German Lutheran Church, which was crowded. A number of German ministers too from the city and neighbourhood were present on this occasion. Whilst at Detroit, my husband preached likewise at the First Baptist, Jefferson Avenue, Central Methodist Episcopal, Simpson Methodist Episcopal, and Central Presbyterian Churches; held three more meetings for the Germans, addressed a number of pastors at Lafayette Street Church, spoke at the Central Methodist Episcopal Church on Feb. 2nd, to about 500 Christian Workers, and had five private interviews of two hours each with Dr. Pierson (pastor of Fort Street Presbyterian Church) with reference to his labours in the ministry.
From Detroit, on Feb. 4th, we went to Ypsilanti (atwhich place Mr. Müller preached three times, and addressed about 200 students of the Normal School, or State College who were being trained for teachers), and from Ypsilanti proceeded to Ann Arbor, where, on Sunday morning, Feb. 8th, he addressed a union meeting of Germans in their own language at a German Church. On that evening also, at the great University Hall (the largest in the State of Michigan) he addressed a mass-meeting, consisting of about 1,000 students out of the 2,000 who belong to the University, and 1,800 persons from churches which had been closed, that their members might attend this service. From the platform of the Hall (a large semi-circular building), just before the sermon, Dr. Brown, of the Presbyterian Church, made a short opening speech, and concluded his remarks by saying:—"We have for years, Mr. Müller, been acquainted with your life and labours; we thank God for you; your work has been an inspiration to us, and we now most heartily welcome you to the University and to the Churches of Ann Arbor." My husband then addressed the vast audience for an hour, and spoke particularly to the students who formed a large portion of the congregation.
The following brief account of this University may here be considered interesting:—
"The University of Michigan, located in Ann Arbor, is one of the noblest Institutions in the land. With fees little more than nominal, and with a standard of scholarship as high as any College or University in the country, it numbers amongst its students natives of every part of the globe. The University buildings occupy a square of ground, each front of which is nearly a quarter of a mile in length. There are no dormitories, all the space being devoted to purposes of instruction. The library is large and constantly increasing; the geological collection is one of the most perfect in the country; there is a fine art gallery; and the medical museum is complete." Before our departure, Mr. Müller preached at the Presbyterian Church, and held a second German service on Feb. 10th.
On the 11th we left Ann Arbor for Olivet, but, in consequence of a railway accident, our journey was delayed; and having to pass one night at Jackson on the way, and to drive through Charlotte to another station, we did not reach our destination until Thursday afternoon the 12th. At Olivet, a little village, remarkable chiefly for its College, my husband preached only twice; and on the latter occasion addressed the College students (of whom there were about 300) at the Church belonging to the Institution.
On Feb. 14th, we had a long drive to Marshall, 12 miles distant, and then continued our journey by rail to Kalamazoo, 35 miles from Marshall. Here Mr. Müller preached twice at the First Presbyterian Church, and held two union meetings, one at the Wesleyan and the other at the Baptist Church. On the afternoon of Feb. 8th, hegave an address also at Mount Holyoke Seminary for Ladies, which stands upon a hill in a beautiful situation, at a little distance from the town. On Feb. 19th, he held a meeting for the 135 students of Kalamazoo College, and on the 20th we left for Chicago, 142 miles from Kalamazoo.
There my husband preached at the First Congregational Church on Sunday morning, the 22nd; addressed about 2,000 Germans at Mr. Moody's Tabernacle in the afternoon; held German meetings at Farwell Hall, on the evenings of the 23rd, 24th, and 25th; and on the 26th gave a farewell address to the Germans of Chicago at Moody's Tabernacle in the evening. On Feb. 27th, at an evening meeting connected with the Sunday School Teachers' Convention for Cook's County, held at Farwell Hall, which was attended by delegates and superintendents from Chicago and other places; Mr. Müller addressed 1,000 Christian workers for about an hour, and was followed by Major Whittle and Mr. Jacobs, who also gave addresses. On Sunday, Feb. 29th, my husband preached at the Tabernacle in the morning, from 2nd Tim. iv. 7, 8, with great help and power, and spoke in the afternoon on the Second Coming of Christ, from the parable of the ten virgins, at the same place.
On the evenings of the 1st and 2nd of March, he preached again at the Tabernacle; held a meeting at the Second Presbyterian Church on the evening of the 3rd,gave an address at the lecture room of the First Congregational Church on the 4th, and on the 5th held a farewell meeting at the lecture room of Dr. Goodwin's Church. Before our departure the German pastors stated that his ministry had been made a great blessing to their congregations.
On March 6th we left Chicago for Milwaukee, the commercial capital of Wisconsin, 85 miles distant, which contains a population of 130,000, two thirds of whom are Germans. On the following day (Sunday) Mr. Müller preached both morning and evening at Immanuel Church, held a meeting on the 8th at Plymouth Congregational Church, and on the evening of Tuesday, March 9th, addressed a mass meeting of Germans at the Second Congregational Church. During our stay at Milwaukee, he held three other German meetings, and on the evening of the 11th preached at the Methodist Episcopal Church, which was his last service in that city.
On March 12th, at midnight, we left for St. Paul, Minnesota, 324 miles from Milwaukee; and, after travelling for many miles along the banks of theUpperMississippi through a beautiful district, reached our destination on the 13th, at 1.25 p.m. After our arrival the cold became so severe, that the thermometer registered 10 degrees below zero, that is, 42 degrees of frost. The next morning (Sunday, 14th), at Immanuel Church, Mr. Müller held a meeting for the Germans, who form more thanhalf the population of St. Paul; and in the evening a mass meeting of Germans assembled at the Opera House, where he addressed them in their own language for an hour. On Monday morning, the 15th, he attended a meeting of pastors, and on that evening and the next, preached to large congregations of Germans. During the remainder of our stay at St. Paul, he preached in English also at the Congregational, Methodist Episcopal, and Baptist Churches, and gave an address at a meeting of ladies one afternoon.
"St. Paul, the capital of Minnesota, is on the river Mississippi, 2,082 miles from its mouth at New Orleans, and is the largest city in the State. The Mississippi rises in Minnesota; at its source it is 3,160 miles from its mouth, and passes over more than 18 degrees of latitude."
During our visit to St. Paul the weather was intensely cold, but the air was of the dryest, purest, most invigorating character, and is considered particularly healthy even for invalids.
On March 20th, we went to Minneapolis, where, on the morning of Sunday, the 21st, Mr. Müller spoke at the Hall of the Young Men's Christian Association, and preached in the evening at the Plymouth Congregational Church, to about 1,800 people. On March 22nd, at a pastors' meeting, he addressed 50 of his brethren in the ministry, by whom he was most affectionately received; preached on the 24th at East Minneapolis, on the oppositebank of the Mississippi; held a meeting for the Germans on the 25th; answered written questions at the Methodist Episcopal Centenary Church the following evening, which had been handed in; and on the 27th, addressed the students of the College at Minneapolis, 275 in number.
The following note from a pastor at Minneapolis was received after our departure:—
"Dear Brother in Christ,—I cannot express to you the pleasure I have enjoyed in listening to your addresses in this city, all of which, in the English language, I have heard. My faith in God, as the hearer and answerer of prayer, has been greatly strengthened, and I feel that, through his abounding grace, I have, during the last week, enjoyed especial nearness to Him, and have been better fitted for the ministry I love. I shall ever be thankful for your visit to Minneapolis, and think of you and your work with affectionate interest. For twelve years I have ministered to the church which I now serve, and God has been pleased to give me some souls as seals of my ministry; but I long to be more like my Master, and more successful in my work. God bless you, dear Mr. Müller, and your beloved wife, your Orphanage in Bristol; and may He abundantly prosper all the labours of your hands. If it shall never be my privilege to meet you again in this world, I shall hope to be filled with your company in our Father's house above."