ORIGIN OF THE GUIDE-BOOKS OF SCOTLAND.
Thefollowing letter to the Editor of theWeekly Magazine, in 1772, may be regarded as originating the idea of theGuide-Booksto Scottish Scenery, now so numerous. It is interesting to look back upon the writer’s notions of “a New Tour,” as he calls the contemplated work, and his implied admiration of the Highlands. Sir Walter Scott had not then imparted that charm which his genius has now thrown around so many localities of his native land, still, as the writer informs us, it had become, even then, “fashionable among the English to make a tour into Scotland.”
Jan. 27, 1772.
Sir—It is now become fashionable among the English to make a tour into Scotland for some few weeks or months; and there is a moral certainty of the fashion increasing, as the foolish prejudices against the country and its inhabitants daily decrease. But it is to be regretted, that an intelligent curious traveller from England has no proper helps to assist him; so that it often happens, that many return without having seen one third of what is most curious in the country, although, perhaps, they have passed within some few hours ride, or rather some few yards, of such articles of importance; owing to the want of proper information, or too great hurry in making the survey.
To remedy this, it is proposed, that a new tour through Scotland be published, in two pocket-volumes, divided into a number of little circuits of some few days ride, which may be laid down from the map. This work, if properly executed, will be useful to the country in general, to the traveller in particular, and advantageous to its author.
Nothing sets off a work of this kind more than proper plates. As they take time to contract and engrave, these may be going on, while a ride is performing in May from Edinburgh to Berwick, up to Kelso, Melrose, Jedburgh, Hawick, Langholm, Moffat; back to Edinburgh. At Moffat, that grand fall of water, theGray Mare’s Tail, and the curious loch it issues from, are worth notice. The latter is calledLoch-Skeen, and is of a pretty large extent; in the midst of which is an island, where a pair of eagles nestle every year. This loch is clear on one side, where trouts, beautifully speckled, are to be had, and muddy on the other, where black trouts take up their abode.
Then a ride in the end of June, or beginning of July, to Dumfries, Drumlanrig, Kirkcudbright, Air, Saltcoats, Irvine, Greenock, Paisley, Glasgow, Hamilton, Linlithgow; back to Edinburgh.
In the end of August, or beginning of September, to Hopeton, Borrowstounness, Falkirk, Carron, the Canal, Stirling, Alloa, Dunfermline, Inverkeithing, Dunybristle, Kinghorn; back to Edinburgh.
Next year, in May, to Kinghorn, coast-side to St Andrew’s, Cupar, Falkland, Abernethie, Perth, Scoon, Carse of Gowrie, Dundee, coast-side to Inverness, making little excursions from the coast into the country, to remark what is curious, as Forfar, Glammis, Brechin, &c.
Then let the curious traveller take a proper time to journey into Rosshire, Sutherland, and Caithness, to John o’ Groat’s House. If he thinks fit to stretch his tour into Orkney and Zetland, he will find many particulars worthy of observation. In returning, let him visit the Weem, Blair of Athol, Dunkeld, Taymouth, Inverary, Loch-Lomond, &c.
The traveller will find his curiosity particularly gratified in traversing the Highlands of Scotland. Icolmkill, though visited by many, and though there are some accounts of it, with drawings, both in manuscript and in print, ought not to be omitted.—Roslin and Hawthornden should by no means be overlooked.
Plates may be copied from Sletzer’sTheatrumScotiæ, Gordon’sItinerarium Septentrionale, and the Master of Elphinston’s plates of Edinburgh. Keith’s Map of the Frith of Forth, and Bryce’s Map of the north coast of Britain, from Row Stoir of Assynt to Wick in Caithness, &c., may prove very useful; as may Straloch’s Maps, though not easily to be had.
But there are many noble find landscapes, which I have not seen any draught of, as from Drummond Castle, the top of the hill of Myat, one of theMontes Ocelli, from Stirling-castle, from Arthur-seat, Hopeton-house, Inveresk, &c. If the author has a knowledge in drawing, these may be easily done.
A map of Scotland prefixed to this work, with a preliminary discourse, giving a concise, geographical description of the country, of its monarchy, the changes made, first, by the union of the two crowns, usurpation of Cromwell, then by the restoration, revolution, and union of the two kingdoms, could not fail to be acceptable to the inquisitive and candid reader.
But the greatest care should be taken to stand clear of all party-work, either in religion or politics, because such peculiarities will disgust some readers, and thereby effectually condemn the work, be its merit otherwise ever so great.
Many helps may be had to compile such an useful and entertaining performance: such as Maitland’s History of Scotland; his History of Edinburgh; Guthrie’s History of Scotland; Gordon’s Itinerarium Septentrionale; Chamberlain’s Present State; The Tour through Britain, vol. 4; Martin’s History of the Isles; Macaulay’s ditto of St Kilda; Sacheverell’s Voyage to Icolmkill; History of Orkney, now to be published by Coke; Sibbald’s History of Fife; Sir John Dalrymple’s Late Memoirs; Moyes’s Tour; Pennant’s Tour, &c.
One that has made some trips into the Highlands of Scotland, depictures them in the following manner:
“Let others think and rove as they please; for my own part, I look upon the Highlands of Scotland as the most delightful country in the world during the summer-season: where one cannot fail to be seized with a kind of religious veneration, when viewing, with an heedful eye, the high hills and lofty mountains, whose summits are in the clouds, and their sides covered over with the verdant grass, the flowery heath in its purple glow, or the tall trees, particularly the towering firs, waving their tops in the heavens; the awful rocks hanging over the heads of the travellers, and threatening, as it were, to tumble down upon them; the fine natural falls of water here and there, cascading with a mighty, noisy, and resounding rush; the large extended lakes, enriched with innumerable finny tribes of different kinds, and their grassy banks forming beautifully-spangled lawns; and sometimes the curling waves, or the roaring billows, of the majestic and far sounding-ocean.
“What a delightful jaunt is it to move, for some miles together, through a wood of the fragrant birch, bending down its leaves to regale the nose of the traveller. The beauties of a country-seat, wood and water, are here in the greatest abundance. But if we pass from the inanimate to the animate part of the creation, exhibited here in a luxuriant valley, the sylvan scene is completed.
“The gentleman can beat up all kinds of game; the deer and the roe bounding up and down; the partridge, the tarmachan, the muir-fowl, the wood-cock, the black-cock, and the heath-hen, and many others I cannot name, whirling through the air, or whidding up and down upon the ground; the wild-goose, gagling, and the wild-duck quack-quaking, in their watery regions, or in their soaring flights.
“The feathered choir vie with one another to regale the ear of the listening traveller, hopping from leafy spray to trembling twig, swelling their throats, and warbling out their lays in a wild variety of harmonious notes.
“The primitive simplicity and the open hospitality of the natives, are past all description, though set off, either in the flowers of the orator, or in the flash of the poet, enough to make the citizen, the court-bred gentleman, and the delicate lady, stand amazed, and even to furnish them with a new lesson in life. Common decency and natural good manners are daily to be seen amongst the vulgar in the Highlands of Scotland; and their conduct is marked with a penetrating sagacity. Their apparent devotion at public worship is extremely remarkable and affecting, so as to draw tears of joy and admiration from the eyes of a stranger!”