CHAPTER III PARLOR AVIATIONA model glider, or aeroplane without a motor, will be found perhaps as entertaining a toy as the power-driven machine. It is much simpler, of course, to build and adjust a successful glider even than the most elementary model aeroplane. With the problem of the motor and propeller removed, the cost of construction besides is reduced to practically nothing. Here is excellent entertainment for those who have not the time or patience for model building. A graceful glide of successive waving lines makes a beautiful spectacle. Incidentally it is a good plan to work out the designs of large models in this way.Fascinating little paper models, reproducing the famous man-carrying machines, the Wright, Bleriot, and others, may be put together in a few minutes. With a little adjustment, they may be made to fly from fifty to one hundred times their length. A paper Bleriot biplane six inches in length, for instance, may be made to sail for from twenty-five to fifty feet, and so on. This will be the actual horizontal distance traversed; the actual distance measured in long, undulating curves may be considerably more. Such flights do not consist merely of a long diagonal to earth, but of several surprising upward sweeps, well worth the trouble of construction. It is interesting to note the remarkable stability of their gliders.A Simple Model GliderA Simple Model GliderAn hour's entertainment, no less interesting than instructive, may be enjoyed with a series of these paper gliders. A different model might be prepared for each guest, and a prize or favor offered for the longest or best spectacular flight. The little gliders will cross a large room before coming down. The various aeroplanes nowadays are so familiar that in any gathering will be found several who favor, for instance, a Wright over a Curtiss take a lively interest in the rivalry of the various models.An effective glider built by R.S. BarnabyAn effective glider built by R.S. BarnabyAn efficient sling-shot glider built by John RocheAn efficient sling-shot glider built by John RocheBegin with a very simple model. You will soon learn the trick of judging the size of the supporting surfaces and the spacing. The Antoinette aeroplane is probably the easiest one to imitate. From a sheet of ordinary writing paper, cardboard or fine wood, cut the form indicated. If the paper be rather heavy, it may be made six inches in length. By folding the paper and making one cutting, it will be found much easier to make the wings even and symmetrical.The two sides should be fixed at a broad dihedral angle. To keep the little glider on an even keel you will need to add a weight to the front. A large pin or paper clip will answer. Launch the glider by holding it horizontally and throwing slightly forward. If it darts downward, lighten the ballast. If it falls backward, "sitting on its tail," add more weight at the front or bend the tail up.Your glider will, of course, travel to the ground along the line of least resistance, and the trick is to adjust the center of gravity and center of pressure that this descent may be as gradual as possible. The center of gravity should come a little in front of the center of pressure. The gliding angle, as it is called, or the angle between the course of the model in flight with the ground should be about one in twelve. In other words, the glider descends one foot for every twelve feet it travels forward. Practically all the famous monoplanes may be reproduced in this way.A variety of gliders may be made in a general arrow form. These arrows, or darts, as they are called, may be made about a foot in length and three or four inches in width. The horizontal surface, it should be borne in mind, is the supporting surface, while the vertical surface gives the flight direction. These gliders will also require weighting at the forward end. They should be thrown forward with rather more force than in the case of the Antoinette.The biplanes such as the Wright and Curtiss aeroplanes may be reproduced very easily in paper. They fly best when made about six inches in length. Cut the two sheets of paper for the main planes one inch by six inches and round off the corners on one side. Two similar sheets, one by three inches, will be required for the smaller plane in the rear.The planes are held in position by a series of paper struts, or toothpicks, and should be separated by a distance equal to their width, in this case one inch. Cut the slips of paper to form the struts one and one-half inches in length and bend over the corners at right angles, one-quarter of an inch from either end. These should be pasted in position, always keeping the edge of the struts lengthwise so that they will offer the least resistance in flight.Connect the two biplanes by strips of paper six inches in length pasted on the lower planes or main deck of the little aeroplane. The forward planes should be fixed at a slightly elevated angle by running struts from the connecting strips to the upper plane. The accompanying picture will show how simple this all is.The biplanes as a rule require no weighing. To launch them, hold them high in the air and merely let go. They fly best with their smaller planes forward. By varying the angle of the front plane, you can soon bring it to an even keel. A vertical rudder placed three inches behind the main plane will increase the model's directional stability.An amazingly clever little glider may be made of a piece of reed or cane, say five inches in length, and a sheet of writing paper. With a pair of scissors cut two planes, one three by one inch and the second two by half an inch. You will also need a vertical rudder one inch square. Round off the corners slightly and glue the planes at either end of the stick and exactly on a level. Now fasten the rudder at right angles to the planes beneath the larger plane. If it dips, the front plane is too far back, while if it rises too quickly and settles back, the front plane must be brought back.The paper gliders form an excellent kindergarten preparation to the study of aviation, leading up to the construction of large model gliders. You will thus gain a skill in adjusting the planes and fixing the centers of gravity and of pressure, which will prove valuable later on. The possibilities of glider building come as a surprise to the laymen in such matters.THE SLING-SHOT GLIDER.A fascinating field of experiment is opened by combining the sling-shot principle with the ordinary glider. The speed with which one can launch a glider from the hand is, of course, limited. Now use a small strand of rubber to launch the planes, and the increased speed will not only lengthen the flight surprisingly but make possible a really remarkable spectacular flight. A small glider may be made to return to the starting point or even loop the loop two or three times before touching the ground. By a simple adjustment of the planes, these curves may be varied indefinitely.Designs for Sling-Shot Gliders.Designs for Sling-Shot Gliders.When you have adjusted your glider to fly well, try the same arrangement of planes on a piece of reed, say eight inches in length, and bend the end over in the form of a hook. By heating the cane over a flame, you can make it turn without breaking and hold its position. Now loop a single rubber band over your thumb and forefinger, and passing the hook over the rubber, pull back exactly as you would use a sling shot. As you release the glider, pull your other hand quickly out of range. By using a heavier paper, one which will hold its shape, and turning the forward edges up slightly, the glider may be made to travel upward in a variety of graceful curves.Paper Gliders. Antoinette Monoplane and Wright BiplanePaper Gliders. Antoinette Monoplane and Wright BiplaneAn excellent glider with wooden planesAn excellent glider with wooden planesA covered-frame sling-shot gliderA covered-frame sling-shot gliderThe best glider for launching on the sling-shot principle is made from planes cut from thin metal sheets. Aluminum is the best material, but a very thin wood will answer. A one-foot model glider will be found the easiest size to manage. Cut one plane eight inches in length by three in width, and the second five inches by two inches. Round off the corners on one side of each plane, leaving a straight line for the front or entering edge.Mount the planes on a strip of reed, cane or bamboo about eighteen inches in length. In all these gliders the forward plane is made the smaller, thereby reducing the head resistance as far as possible. The metal planes should be slightly flexed by bending them to a slight concave above the horizontal and just back of the front edge. The forward end of the stick should be bent into a large hook by heating or first soaking in water. If your glider falls quickly to the ground bend the frame a trifle upward.Since your glider is intended to travel at a comparatively high speed, the planes may be mounted much further apart than in the case of a glider launched from the hand. Try them first ten inches apart and afterwards adjust them to suit. The rubber used for launching the glider should be fairly heavy, say three strands of one-eighth inch rubber or its equivalent. The end of the hook may need adjusting so that it will escape from the rubber on being released.It will be found an easy matter to obtain long, graceful glides from this model from the first. By launching it upward, it may rise to a considerable height. When you have caught the trick of launching your glider with sufficient force, try a spectacular flight. Set your forward plane at an angle by inserting a block of wood between the stick. In the case of metal planes, bend up the front edge.A very slight upward elevation will answer. Gradually increase this angle until the model sweeps upward and turns on itself. You will soon be able to make the glider describe a complete circle or loop the loop twice before landing. When traveling at such a high rate of speed, your glider is likely to be dangerous and might inflict a bad cut, and the flight should only be attempted where one has plenty of room.These flights may be still further varied by adjusting the rear edge of the vertical plane or rudder. By turning the rudder to the right, for instance, the glider may be made to travel to the right or the direction may be reversed. In this way the glider may be made to describe a complete horizontal circle or several circles. By launching the glider upward with this adjustment, it may be made to fly in a graceful spiral.The success of a glider depends more upon its modeling and finish of its planes than in the case of the model aeroplane. It must gain as much support as possible from the air, since it has no motive power to keep it aloft. Its head resistance must also be cut down. The ordinary cloth-covered planes, which serve well enough for an ordinary model aeroplane, will not carry a glider far. The planes must, therefore, be of metal or wood, or when built-up planes are used they must be of the most careful workmanship.The simplest form of glider, excepting, of course, the paper model, is made entirely of wood. A glider two feet in length will be found a good size to experiment with. The model should be much heavier than an aeroplane so that one need not take the care in its construction to reduce weight which may make the construction of a model tedious. A glider of this size may weigh upward of one pound. Under favorable conditions, it will glide for two hundred feet, when launched from the hand, while if it is thrown from an elevation, an upper window or a hill top, it may travel considerably further.Select a stout stick for your base, one inch square and two feet in length. The main plane should measure fifteen inches in width by six in depth, and the smaller plane ten inches by four inches. A thin board about three-sixteenths of an inch thick may be used for the planes.The front corners should be slightly rounded, and the rear edges cut sharply away. These planes may be flexed by steaming. Hold the section to be bent over the spout of a tea kettle until the wood is soft and pliable enough to bend. If it does not soften sufficiently, immerse the wood in boiling water. The plane should be flexed slightly upward just back of the forward edge. A good curve may be obtained by heating the under surface over a flame.To hold it in position until it has dried and assumed shape, bend it over a stick laid on a board and fasten the plane down by driving brads around the edges and bending them over to keep it down. Leave it in this position until it is dry and hard.Your glider will fly better with a vertical rudder, as in the case of the paper models. The rudder should be cut from a thin board of the same material about six inches square. Round off one corner and plane or sandpaper this front edge, which will be the entering edge. The entering edges of the front plane should be prepared in the same way to reduce the head resistance as much as possible. Nail this rudder to the side of the stick directly beneath the rear or larger plane. It will be still better if you mortise it neatly into the center of the stick.The glider is thrown with the smaller end forward. For the trial flight, mount the smaller plane at the extreme forward end and then move it backward as you test it out, until the glider moves on an even keel. To launch the glider, grasp the central stick from beneath at the point where it balances, and throw it forward with all your might. Since it travels at a much higher speed than a power-driven model aeroplane, it requires much less supporting surface, while the planes may be spaced much further apart.When you have adjusted the planes, try throwing your glider at an upward angle of say forty-five degrees. It should rise swiftly to a height of upwards of fifty feet, turn backward on itself, and even describe a graceful upward curve before coming down. Now try throwing it into the wind or against a moderately strong breeze. Its course is likely to be very irregular. It will dip and rise at many unexpected angles, and probably travel several hundred feet in all before landing. During the past year, a model glider has been built by Mr. W. H. Howell, Jr., to glide a horizontal distance of 650 feet, while the actual length of the flights has been upwards of 2,000 feet.
CHAPTER III PARLOR AVIATIONA model glider, or aeroplane without a motor, will be found perhaps as entertaining a toy as the power-driven machine. It is much simpler, of course, to build and adjust a successful glider even than the most elementary model aeroplane. With the problem of the motor and propeller removed, the cost of construction besides is reduced to practically nothing. Here is excellent entertainment for those who have not the time or patience for model building. A graceful glide of successive waving lines makes a beautiful spectacle. Incidentally it is a good plan to work out the designs of large models in this way.Fascinating little paper models, reproducing the famous man-carrying machines, the Wright, Bleriot, and others, may be put together in a few minutes. With a little adjustment, they may be made to fly from fifty to one hundred times their length. A paper Bleriot biplane six inches in length, for instance, may be made to sail for from twenty-five to fifty feet, and so on. This will be the actual horizontal distance traversed; the actual distance measured in long, undulating curves may be considerably more. Such flights do not consist merely of a long diagonal to earth, but of several surprising upward sweeps, well worth the trouble of construction. It is interesting to note the remarkable stability of their gliders.A Simple Model GliderA Simple Model GliderAn hour's entertainment, no less interesting than instructive, may be enjoyed with a series of these paper gliders. A different model might be prepared for each guest, and a prize or favor offered for the longest or best spectacular flight. The little gliders will cross a large room before coming down. The various aeroplanes nowadays are so familiar that in any gathering will be found several who favor, for instance, a Wright over a Curtiss take a lively interest in the rivalry of the various models.An effective glider built by R.S. BarnabyAn effective glider built by R.S. BarnabyAn efficient sling-shot glider built by John RocheAn efficient sling-shot glider built by John RocheBegin with a very simple model. You will soon learn the trick of judging the size of the supporting surfaces and the spacing. The Antoinette aeroplane is probably the easiest one to imitate. From a sheet of ordinary writing paper, cardboard or fine wood, cut the form indicated. If the paper be rather heavy, it may be made six inches in length. By folding the paper and making one cutting, it will be found much easier to make the wings even and symmetrical.The two sides should be fixed at a broad dihedral angle. To keep the little glider on an even keel you will need to add a weight to the front. A large pin or paper clip will answer. Launch the glider by holding it horizontally and throwing slightly forward. If it darts downward, lighten the ballast. If it falls backward, "sitting on its tail," add more weight at the front or bend the tail up.Your glider will, of course, travel to the ground along the line of least resistance, and the trick is to adjust the center of gravity and center of pressure that this descent may be as gradual as possible. The center of gravity should come a little in front of the center of pressure. The gliding angle, as it is called, or the angle between the course of the model in flight with the ground should be about one in twelve. In other words, the glider descends one foot for every twelve feet it travels forward. Practically all the famous monoplanes may be reproduced in this way.A variety of gliders may be made in a general arrow form. These arrows, or darts, as they are called, may be made about a foot in length and three or four inches in width. The horizontal surface, it should be borne in mind, is the supporting surface, while the vertical surface gives the flight direction. These gliders will also require weighting at the forward end. They should be thrown forward with rather more force than in the case of the Antoinette.The biplanes such as the Wright and Curtiss aeroplanes may be reproduced very easily in paper. They fly best when made about six inches in length. Cut the two sheets of paper for the main planes one inch by six inches and round off the corners on one side. Two similar sheets, one by three inches, will be required for the smaller plane in the rear.The planes are held in position by a series of paper struts, or toothpicks, and should be separated by a distance equal to their width, in this case one inch. Cut the slips of paper to form the struts one and one-half inches in length and bend over the corners at right angles, one-quarter of an inch from either end. These should be pasted in position, always keeping the edge of the struts lengthwise so that they will offer the least resistance in flight.Connect the two biplanes by strips of paper six inches in length pasted on the lower planes or main deck of the little aeroplane. The forward planes should be fixed at a slightly elevated angle by running struts from the connecting strips to the upper plane. The accompanying picture will show how simple this all is.The biplanes as a rule require no weighing. To launch them, hold them high in the air and merely let go. They fly best with their smaller planes forward. By varying the angle of the front plane, you can soon bring it to an even keel. A vertical rudder placed three inches behind the main plane will increase the model's directional stability.An amazingly clever little glider may be made of a piece of reed or cane, say five inches in length, and a sheet of writing paper. With a pair of scissors cut two planes, one three by one inch and the second two by half an inch. You will also need a vertical rudder one inch square. Round off the corners slightly and glue the planes at either end of the stick and exactly on a level. Now fasten the rudder at right angles to the planes beneath the larger plane. If it dips, the front plane is too far back, while if it rises too quickly and settles back, the front plane must be brought back.The paper gliders form an excellent kindergarten preparation to the study of aviation, leading up to the construction of large model gliders. You will thus gain a skill in adjusting the planes and fixing the centers of gravity and of pressure, which will prove valuable later on. The possibilities of glider building come as a surprise to the laymen in such matters.THE SLING-SHOT GLIDER.A fascinating field of experiment is opened by combining the sling-shot principle with the ordinary glider. The speed with which one can launch a glider from the hand is, of course, limited. Now use a small strand of rubber to launch the planes, and the increased speed will not only lengthen the flight surprisingly but make possible a really remarkable spectacular flight. A small glider may be made to return to the starting point or even loop the loop two or three times before touching the ground. By a simple adjustment of the planes, these curves may be varied indefinitely.Designs for Sling-Shot Gliders.Designs for Sling-Shot Gliders.When you have adjusted your glider to fly well, try the same arrangement of planes on a piece of reed, say eight inches in length, and bend the end over in the form of a hook. By heating the cane over a flame, you can make it turn without breaking and hold its position. Now loop a single rubber band over your thumb and forefinger, and passing the hook over the rubber, pull back exactly as you would use a sling shot. As you release the glider, pull your other hand quickly out of range. By using a heavier paper, one which will hold its shape, and turning the forward edges up slightly, the glider may be made to travel upward in a variety of graceful curves.Paper Gliders. Antoinette Monoplane and Wright BiplanePaper Gliders. Antoinette Monoplane and Wright BiplaneAn excellent glider with wooden planesAn excellent glider with wooden planesA covered-frame sling-shot gliderA covered-frame sling-shot gliderThe best glider for launching on the sling-shot principle is made from planes cut from thin metal sheets. Aluminum is the best material, but a very thin wood will answer. A one-foot model glider will be found the easiest size to manage. Cut one plane eight inches in length by three in width, and the second five inches by two inches. Round off the corners on one side of each plane, leaving a straight line for the front or entering edge.Mount the planes on a strip of reed, cane or bamboo about eighteen inches in length. In all these gliders the forward plane is made the smaller, thereby reducing the head resistance as far as possible. The metal planes should be slightly flexed by bending them to a slight concave above the horizontal and just back of the front edge. The forward end of the stick should be bent into a large hook by heating or first soaking in water. If your glider falls quickly to the ground bend the frame a trifle upward.Since your glider is intended to travel at a comparatively high speed, the planes may be mounted much further apart than in the case of a glider launched from the hand. Try them first ten inches apart and afterwards adjust them to suit. The rubber used for launching the glider should be fairly heavy, say three strands of one-eighth inch rubber or its equivalent. The end of the hook may need adjusting so that it will escape from the rubber on being released.It will be found an easy matter to obtain long, graceful glides from this model from the first. By launching it upward, it may rise to a considerable height. When you have caught the trick of launching your glider with sufficient force, try a spectacular flight. Set your forward plane at an angle by inserting a block of wood between the stick. In the case of metal planes, bend up the front edge.A very slight upward elevation will answer. Gradually increase this angle until the model sweeps upward and turns on itself. You will soon be able to make the glider describe a complete circle or loop the loop twice before landing. When traveling at such a high rate of speed, your glider is likely to be dangerous and might inflict a bad cut, and the flight should only be attempted where one has plenty of room.These flights may be still further varied by adjusting the rear edge of the vertical plane or rudder. By turning the rudder to the right, for instance, the glider may be made to travel to the right or the direction may be reversed. In this way the glider may be made to describe a complete horizontal circle or several circles. By launching the glider upward with this adjustment, it may be made to fly in a graceful spiral.The success of a glider depends more upon its modeling and finish of its planes than in the case of the model aeroplane. It must gain as much support as possible from the air, since it has no motive power to keep it aloft. Its head resistance must also be cut down. The ordinary cloth-covered planes, which serve well enough for an ordinary model aeroplane, will not carry a glider far. The planes must, therefore, be of metal or wood, or when built-up planes are used they must be of the most careful workmanship.The simplest form of glider, excepting, of course, the paper model, is made entirely of wood. A glider two feet in length will be found a good size to experiment with. The model should be much heavier than an aeroplane so that one need not take the care in its construction to reduce weight which may make the construction of a model tedious. A glider of this size may weigh upward of one pound. Under favorable conditions, it will glide for two hundred feet, when launched from the hand, while if it is thrown from an elevation, an upper window or a hill top, it may travel considerably further.Select a stout stick for your base, one inch square and two feet in length. The main plane should measure fifteen inches in width by six in depth, and the smaller plane ten inches by four inches. A thin board about three-sixteenths of an inch thick may be used for the planes.The front corners should be slightly rounded, and the rear edges cut sharply away. These planes may be flexed by steaming. Hold the section to be bent over the spout of a tea kettle until the wood is soft and pliable enough to bend. If it does not soften sufficiently, immerse the wood in boiling water. The plane should be flexed slightly upward just back of the forward edge. A good curve may be obtained by heating the under surface over a flame.To hold it in position until it has dried and assumed shape, bend it over a stick laid on a board and fasten the plane down by driving brads around the edges and bending them over to keep it down. Leave it in this position until it is dry and hard.Your glider will fly better with a vertical rudder, as in the case of the paper models. The rudder should be cut from a thin board of the same material about six inches square. Round off one corner and plane or sandpaper this front edge, which will be the entering edge. The entering edges of the front plane should be prepared in the same way to reduce the head resistance as much as possible. Nail this rudder to the side of the stick directly beneath the rear or larger plane. It will be still better if you mortise it neatly into the center of the stick.The glider is thrown with the smaller end forward. For the trial flight, mount the smaller plane at the extreme forward end and then move it backward as you test it out, until the glider moves on an even keel. To launch the glider, grasp the central stick from beneath at the point where it balances, and throw it forward with all your might. Since it travels at a much higher speed than a power-driven model aeroplane, it requires much less supporting surface, while the planes may be spaced much further apart.When you have adjusted the planes, try throwing your glider at an upward angle of say forty-five degrees. It should rise swiftly to a height of upwards of fifty feet, turn backward on itself, and even describe a graceful upward curve before coming down. Now try throwing it into the wind or against a moderately strong breeze. Its course is likely to be very irregular. It will dip and rise at many unexpected angles, and probably travel several hundred feet in all before landing. During the past year, a model glider has been built by Mr. W. H. Howell, Jr., to glide a horizontal distance of 650 feet, while the actual length of the flights has been upwards of 2,000 feet.
CHAPTER III PARLOR AVIATIONA model glider, or aeroplane without a motor, will be found perhaps as entertaining a toy as the power-driven machine. It is much simpler, of course, to build and adjust a successful glider even than the most elementary model aeroplane. With the problem of the motor and propeller removed, the cost of construction besides is reduced to practically nothing. Here is excellent entertainment for those who have not the time or patience for model building. A graceful glide of successive waving lines makes a beautiful spectacle. Incidentally it is a good plan to work out the designs of large models in this way.Fascinating little paper models, reproducing the famous man-carrying machines, the Wright, Bleriot, and others, may be put together in a few minutes. With a little adjustment, they may be made to fly from fifty to one hundred times their length. A paper Bleriot biplane six inches in length, for instance, may be made to sail for from twenty-five to fifty feet, and so on. This will be the actual horizontal distance traversed; the actual distance measured in long, undulating curves may be considerably more. Such flights do not consist merely of a long diagonal to earth, but of several surprising upward sweeps, well worth the trouble of construction. It is interesting to note the remarkable stability of their gliders.A Simple Model GliderA Simple Model GliderAn hour's entertainment, no less interesting than instructive, may be enjoyed with a series of these paper gliders. A different model might be prepared for each guest, and a prize or favor offered for the longest or best spectacular flight. The little gliders will cross a large room before coming down. The various aeroplanes nowadays are so familiar that in any gathering will be found several who favor, for instance, a Wright over a Curtiss take a lively interest in the rivalry of the various models.An effective glider built by R.S. BarnabyAn effective glider built by R.S. BarnabyAn efficient sling-shot glider built by John RocheAn efficient sling-shot glider built by John RocheBegin with a very simple model. You will soon learn the trick of judging the size of the supporting surfaces and the spacing. The Antoinette aeroplane is probably the easiest one to imitate. From a sheet of ordinary writing paper, cardboard or fine wood, cut the form indicated. If the paper be rather heavy, it may be made six inches in length. By folding the paper and making one cutting, it will be found much easier to make the wings even and symmetrical.The two sides should be fixed at a broad dihedral angle. To keep the little glider on an even keel you will need to add a weight to the front. A large pin or paper clip will answer. Launch the glider by holding it horizontally and throwing slightly forward. If it darts downward, lighten the ballast. If it falls backward, "sitting on its tail," add more weight at the front or bend the tail up.Your glider will, of course, travel to the ground along the line of least resistance, and the trick is to adjust the center of gravity and center of pressure that this descent may be as gradual as possible. The center of gravity should come a little in front of the center of pressure. The gliding angle, as it is called, or the angle between the course of the model in flight with the ground should be about one in twelve. In other words, the glider descends one foot for every twelve feet it travels forward. Practically all the famous monoplanes may be reproduced in this way.A variety of gliders may be made in a general arrow form. These arrows, or darts, as they are called, may be made about a foot in length and three or four inches in width. The horizontal surface, it should be borne in mind, is the supporting surface, while the vertical surface gives the flight direction. These gliders will also require weighting at the forward end. They should be thrown forward with rather more force than in the case of the Antoinette.The biplanes such as the Wright and Curtiss aeroplanes may be reproduced very easily in paper. They fly best when made about six inches in length. Cut the two sheets of paper for the main planes one inch by six inches and round off the corners on one side. Two similar sheets, one by three inches, will be required for the smaller plane in the rear.The planes are held in position by a series of paper struts, or toothpicks, and should be separated by a distance equal to their width, in this case one inch. Cut the slips of paper to form the struts one and one-half inches in length and bend over the corners at right angles, one-quarter of an inch from either end. These should be pasted in position, always keeping the edge of the struts lengthwise so that they will offer the least resistance in flight.Connect the two biplanes by strips of paper six inches in length pasted on the lower planes or main deck of the little aeroplane. The forward planes should be fixed at a slightly elevated angle by running struts from the connecting strips to the upper plane. The accompanying picture will show how simple this all is.The biplanes as a rule require no weighing. To launch them, hold them high in the air and merely let go. They fly best with their smaller planes forward. By varying the angle of the front plane, you can soon bring it to an even keel. A vertical rudder placed three inches behind the main plane will increase the model's directional stability.An amazingly clever little glider may be made of a piece of reed or cane, say five inches in length, and a sheet of writing paper. With a pair of scissors cut two planes, one three by one inch and the second two by half an inch. You will also need a vertical rudder one inch square. Round off the corners slightly and glue the planes at either end of the stick and exactly on a level. Now fasten the rudder at right angles to the planes beneath the larger plane. If it dips, the front plane is too far back, while if it rises too quickly and settles back, the front plane must be brought back.The paper gliders form an excellent kindergarten preparation to the study of aviation, leading up to the construction of large model gliders. You will thus gain a skill in adjusting the planes and fixing the centers of gravity and of pressure, which will prove valuable later on. The possibilities of glider building come as a surprise to the laymen in such matters.THE SLING-SHOT GLIDER.A fascinating field of experiment is opened by combining the sling-shot principle with the ordinary glider. The speed with which one can launch a glider from the hand is, of course, limited. Now use a small strand of rubber to launch the planes, and the increased speed will not only lengthen the flight surprisingly but make possible a really remarkable spectacular flight. A small glider may be made to return to the starting point or even loop the loop two or three times before touching the ground. By a simple adjustment of the planes, these curves may be varied indefinitely.Designs for Sling-Shot Gliders.Designs for Sling-Shot Gliders.When you have adjusted your glider to fly well, try the same arrangement of planes on a piece of reed, say eight inches in length, and bend the end over in the form of a hook. By heating the cane over a flame, you can make it turn without breaking and hold its position. Now loop a single rubber band over your thumb and forefinger, and passing the hook over the rubber, pull back exactly as you would use a sling shot. As you release the glider, pull your other hand quickly out of range. By using a heavier paper, one which will hold its shape, and turning the forward edges up slightly, the glider may be made to travel upward in a variety of graceful curves.Paper Gliders. Antoinette Monoplane and Wright BiplanePaper Gliders. Antoinette Monoplane and Wright BiplaneAn excellent glider with wooden planesAn excellent glider with wooden planesA covered-frame sling-shot gliderA covered-frame sling-shot gliderThe best glider for launching on the sling-shot principle is made from planes cut from thin metal sheets. Aluminum is the best material, but a very thin wood will answer. A one-foot model glider will be found the easiest size to manage. Cut one plane eight inches in length by three in width, and the second five inches by two inches. Round off the corners on one side of each plane, leaving a straight line for the front or entering edge.Mount the planes on a strip of reed, cane or bamboo about eighteen inches in length. In all these gliders the forward plane is made the smaller, thereby reducing the head resistance as far as possible. The metal planes should be slightly flexed by bending them to a slight concave above the horizontal and just back of the front edge. The forward end of the stick should be bent into a large hook by heating or first soaking in water. If your glider falls quickly to the ground bend the frame a trifle upward.Since your glider is intended to travel at a comparatively high speed, the planes may be mounted much further apart than in the case of a glider launched from the hand. Try them first ten inches apart and afterwards adjust them to suit. The rubber used for launching the glider should be fairly heavy, say three strands of one-eighth inch rubber or its equivalent. The end of the hook may need adjusting so that it will escape from the rubber on being released.It will be found an easy matter to obtain long, graceful glides from this model from the first. By launching it upward, it may rise to a considerable height. When you have caught the trick of launching your glider with sufficient force, try a spectacular flight. Set your forward plane at an angle by inserting a block of wood between the stick. In the case of metal planes, bend up the front edge.A very slight upward elevation will answer. Gradually increase this angle until the model sweeps upward and turns on itself. You will soon be able to make the glider describe a complete circle or loop the loop twice before landing. When traveling at such a high rate of speed, your glider is likely to be dangerous and might inflict a bad cut, and the flight should only be attempted where one has plenty of room.These flights may be still further varied by adjusting the rear edge of the vertical plane or rudder. By turning the rudder to the right, for instance, the glider may be made to travel to the right or the direction may be reversed. In this way the glider may be made to describe a complete horizontal circle or several circles. By launching the glider upward with this adjustment, it may be made to fly in a graceful spiral.The success of a glider depends more upon its modeling and finish of its planes than in the case of the model aeroplane. It must gain as much support as possible from the air, since it has no motive power to keep it aloft. Its head resistance must also be cut down. The ordinary cloth-covered planes, which serve well enough for an ordinary model aeroplane, will not carry a glider far. The planes must, therefore, be of metal or wood, or when built-up planes are used they must be of the most careful workmanship.The simplest form of glider, excepting, of course, the paper model, is made entirely of wood. A glider two feet in length will be found a good size to experiment with. The model should be much heavier than an aeroplane so that one need not take the care in its construction to reduce weight which may make the construction of a model tedious. A glider of this size may weigh upward of one pound. Under favorable conditions, it will glide for two hundred feet, when launched from the hand, while if it is thrown from an elevation, an upper window or a hill top, it may travel considerably further.Select a stout stick for your base, one inch square and two feet in length. The main plane should measure fifteen inches in width by six in depth, and the smaller plane ten inches by four inches. A thin board about three-sixteenths of an inch thick may be used for the planes.The front corners should be slightly rounded, and the rear edges cut sharply away. These planes may be flexed by steaming. Hold the section to be bent over the spout of a tea kettle until the wood is soft and pliable enough to bend. If it does not soften sufficiently, immerse the wood in boiling water. The plane should be flexed slightly upward just back of the forward edge. A good curve may be obtained by heating the under surface over a flame.To hold it in position until it has dried and assumed shape, bend it over a stick laid on a board and fasten the plane down by driving brads around the edges and bending them over to keep it down. Leave it in this position until it is dry and hard.Your glider will fly better with a vertical rudder, as in the case of the paper models. The rudder should be cut from a thin board of the same material about six inches square. Round off one corner and plane or sandpaper this front edge, which will be the entering edge. The entering edges of the front plane should be prepared in the same way to reduce the head resistance as much as possible. Nail this rudder to the side of the stick directly beneath the rear or larger plane. It will be still better if you mortise it neatly into the center of the stick.The glider is thrown with the smaller end forward. For the trial flight, mount the smaller plane at the extreme forward end and then move it backward as you test it out, until the glider moves on an even keel. To launch the glider, grasp the central stick from beneath at the point where it balances, and throw it forward with all your might. Since it travels at a much higher speed than a power-driven model aeroplane, it requires much less supporting surface, while the planes may be spaced much further apart.When you have adjusted the planes, try throwing your glider at an upward angle of say forty-five degrees. It should rise swiftly to a height of upwards of fifty feet, turn backward on itself, and even describe a graceful upward curve before coming down. Now try throwing it into the wind or against a moderately strong breeze. Its course is likely to be very irregular. It will dip and rise at many unexpected angles, and probably travel several hundred feet in all before landing. During the past year, a model glider has been built by Mr. W. H. Howell, Jr., to glide a horizontal distance of 650 feet, while the actual length of the flights has been upwards of 2,000 feet.
A model glider, or aeroplane without a motor, will be found perhaps as entertaining a toy as the power-driven machine. It is much simpler, of course, to build and adjust a successful glider even than the most elementary model aeroplane. With the problem of the motor and propeller removed, the cost of construction besides is reduced to practically nothing. Here is excellent entertainment for those who have not the time or patience for model building. A graceful glide of successive waving lines makes a beautiful spectacle. Incidentally it is a good plan to work out the designs of large models in this way.
Fascinating little paper models, reproducing the famous man-carrying machines, the Wright, Bleriot, and others, may be put together in a few minutes. With a little adjustment, they may be made to fly from fifty to one hundred times their length. A paper Bleriot biplane six inches in length, for instance, may be made to sail for from twenty-five to fifty feet, and so on. This will be the actual horizontal distance traversed; the actual distance measured in long, undulating curves may be considerably more. Such flights do not consist merely of a long diagonal to earth, but of several surprising upward sweeps, well worth the trouble of construction. It is interesting to note the remarkable stability of their gliders.
A Simple Model GliderA Simple Model Glider
A Simple Model Glider
An hour's entertainment, no less interesting than instructive, may be enjoyed with a series of these paper gliders. A different model might be prepared for each guest, and a prize or favor offered for the longest or best spectacular flight. The little gliders will cross a large room before coming down. The various aeroplanes nowadays are so familiar that in any gathering will be found several who favor, for instance, a Wright over a Curtiss take a lively interest in the rivalry of the various models.
An effective glider built by R.S. BarnabyAn effective glider built by R.S. Barnaby
An effective glider built by R.S. Barnaby
An efficient sling-shot glider built by John RocheAn efficient sling-shot glider built by John Roche
An efficient sling-shot glider built by John Roche
Begin with a very simple model. You will soon learn the trick of judging the size of the supporting surfaces and the spacing. The Antoinette aeroplane is probably the easiest one to imitate. From a sheet of ordinary writing paper, cardboard or fine wood, cut the form indicated. If the paper be rather heavy, it may be made six inches in length. By folding the paper and making one cutting, it will be found much easier to make the wings even and symmetrical.
The two sides should be fixed at a broad dihedral angle. To keep the little glider on an even keel you will need to add a weight to the front. A large pin or paper clip will answer. Launch the glider by holding it horizontally and throwing slightly forward. If it darts downward, lighten the ballast. If it falls backward, "sitting on its tail," add more weight at the front or bend the tail up.
Your glider will, of course, travel to the ground along the line of least resistance, and the trick is to adjust the center of gravity and center of pressure that this descent may be as gradual as possible. The center of gravity should come a little in front of the center of pressure. The gliding angle, as it is called, or the angle between the course of the model in flight with the ground should be about one in twelve. In other words, the glider descends one foot for every twelve feet it travels forward. Practically all the famous monoplanes may be reproduced in this way.
A variety of gliders may be made in a general arrow form. These arrows, or darts, as they are called, may be made about a foot in length and three or four inches in width. The horizontal surface, it should be borne in mind, is the supporting surface, while the vertical surface gives the flight direction. These gliders will also require weighting at the forward end. They should be thrown forward with rather more force than in the case of the Antoinette.
The biplanes such as the Wright and Curtiss aeroplanes may be reproduced very easily in paper. They fly best when made about six inches in length. Cut the two sheets of paper for the main planes one inch by six inches and round off the corners on one side. Two similar sheets, one by three inches, will be required for the smaller plane in the rear.
The planes are held in position by a series of paper struts, or toothpicks, and should be separated by a distance equal to their width, in this case one inch. Cut the slips of paper to form the struts one and one-half inches in length and bend over the corners at right angles, one-quarter of an inch from either end. These should be pasted in position, always keeping the edge of the struts lengthwise so that they will offer the least resistance in flight.
Connect the two biplanes by strips of paper six inches in length pasted on the lower planes or main deck of the little aeroplane. The forward planes should be fixed at a slightly elevated angle by running struts from the connecting strips to the upper plane. The accompanying picture will show how simple this all is.
The biplanes as a rule require no weighing. To launch them, hold them high in the air and merely let go. They fly best with their smaller planes forward. By varying the angle of the front plane, you can soon bring it to an even keel. A vertical rudder placed three inches behind the main plane will increase the model's directional stability.
An amazingly clever little glider may be made of a piece of reed or cane, say five inches in length, and a sheet of writing paper. With a pair of scissors cut two planes, one three by one inch and the second two by half an inch. You will also need a vertical rudder one inch square. Round off the corners slightly and glue the planes at either end of the stick and exactly on a level. Now fasten the rudder at right angles to the planes beneath the larger plane. If it dips, the front plane is too far back, while if it rises too quickly and settles back, the front plane must be brought back.
The paper gliders form an excellent kindergarten preparation to the study of aviation, leading up to the construction of large model gliders. You will thus gain a skill in adjusting the planes and fixing the centers of gravity and of pressure, which will prove valuable later on. The possibilities of glider building come as a surprise to the laymen in such matters.
THE SLING-SHOT GLIDER.A fascinating field of experiment is opened by combining the sling-shot principle with the ordinary glider. The speed with which one can launch a glider from the hand is, of course, limited. Now use a small strand of rubber to launch the planes, and the increased speed will not only lengthen the flight surprisingly but make possible a really remarkable spectacular flight. A small glider may be made to return to the starting point or even loop the loop two or three times before touching the ground. By a simple adjustment of the planes, these curves may be varied indefinitely.Designs for Sling-Shot Gliders.Designs for Sling-Shot Gliders.When you have adjusted your glider to fly well, try the same arrangement of planes on a piece of reed, say eight inches in length, and bend the end over in the form of a hook. By heating the cane over a flame, you can make it turn without breaking and hold its position. Now loop a single rubber band over your thumb and forefinger, and passing the hook over the rubber, pull back exactly as you would use a sling shot. As you release the glider, pull your other hand quickly out of range. By using a heavier paper, one which will hold its shape, and turning the forward edges up slightly, the glider may be made to travel upward in a variety of graceful curves.Paper Gliders. Antoinette Monoplane and Wright BiplanePaper Gliders. Antoinette Monoplane and Wright BiplaneAn excellent glider with wooden planesAn excellent glider with wooden planesA covered-frame sling-shot gliderA covered-frame sling-shot gliderThe best glider for launching on the sling-shot principle is made from planes cut from thin metal sheets. Aluminum is the best material, but a very thin wood will answer. A one-foot model glider will be found the easiest size to manage. Cut one plane eight inches in length by three in width, and the second five inches by two inches. Round off the corners on one side of each plane, leaving a straight line for the front or entering edge.Mount the planes on a strip of reed, cane or bamboo about eighteen inches in length. In all these gliders the forward plane is made the smaller, thereby reducing the head resistance as far as possible. The metal planes should be slightly flexed by bending them to a slight concave above the horizontal and just back of the front edge. The forward end of the stick should be bent into a large hook by heating or first soaking in water. If your glider falls quickly to the ground bend the frame a trifle upward.Since your glider is intended to travel at a comparatively high speed, the planes may be mounted much further apart than in the case of a glider launched from the hand. Try them first ten inches apart and afterwards adjust them to suit. The rubber used for launching the glider should be fairly heavy, say three strands of one-eighth inch rubber or its equivalent. The end of the hook may need adjusting so that it will escape from the rubber on being released.It will be found an easy matter to obtain long, graceful glides from this model from the first. By launching it upward, it may rise to a considerable height. When you have caught the trick of launching your glider with sufficient force, try a spectacular flight. Set your forward plane at an angle by inserting a block of wood between the stick. In the case of metal planes, bend up the front edge.A very slight upward elevation will answer. Gradually increase this angle until the model sweeps upward and turns on itself. You will soon be able to make the glider describe a complete circle or loop the loop twice before landing. When traveling at such a high rate of speed, your glider is likely to be dangerous and might inflict a bad cut, and the flight should only be attempted where one has plenty of room.These flights may be still further varied by adjusting the rear edge of the vertical plane or rudder. By turning the rudder to the right, for instance, the glider may be made to travel to the right or the direction may be reversed. In this way the glider may be made to describe a complete horizontal circle or several circles. By launching the glider upward with this adjustment, it may be made to fly in a graceful spiral.The success of a glider depends more upon its modeling and finish of its planes than in the case of the model aeroplane. It must gain as much support as possible from the air, since it has no motive power to keep it aloft. Its head resistance must also be cut down. The ordinary cloth-covered planes, which serve well enough for an ordinary model aeroplane, will not carry a glider far. The planes must, therefore, be of metal or wood, or when built-up planes are used they must be of the most careful workmanship.The simplest form of glider, excepting, of course, the paper model, is made entirely of wood. A glider two feet in length will be found a good size to experiment with. The model should be much heavier than an aeroplane so that one need not take the care in its construction to reduce weight which may make the construction of a model tedious. A glider of this size may weigh upward of one pound. Under favorable conditions, it will glide for two hundred feet, when launched from the hand, while if it is thrown from an elevation, an upper window or a hill top, it may travel considerably further.Select a stout stick for your base, one inch square and two feet in length. The main plane should measure fifteen inches in width by six in depth, and the smaller plane ten inches by four inches. A thin board about three-sixteenths of an inch thick may be used for the planes.The front corners should be slightly rounded, and the rear edges cut sharply away. These planes may be flexed by steaming. Hold the section to be bent over the spout of a tea kettle until the wood is soft and pliable enough to bend. If it does not soften sufficiently, immerse the wood in boiling water. The plane should be flexed slightly upward just back of the forward edge. A good curve may be obtained by heating the under surface over a flame.To hold it in position until it has dried and assumed shape, bend it over a stick laid on a board and fasten the plane down by driving brads around the edges and bending them over to keep it down. Leave it in this position until it is dry and hard.Your glider will fly better with a vertical rudder, as in the case of the paper models. The rudder should be cut from a thin board of the same material about six inches square. Round off one corner and plane or sandpaper this front edge, which will be the entering edge. The entering edges of the front plane should be prepared in the same way to reduce the head resistance as much as possible. Nail this rudder to the side of the stick directly beneath the rear or larger plane. It will be still better if you mortise it neatly into the center of the stick.The glider is thrown with the smaller end forward. For the trial flight, mount the smaller plane at the extreme forward end and then move it backward as you test it out, until the glider moves on an even keel. To launch the glider, grasp the central stick from beneath at the point where it balances, and throw it forward with all your might. Since it travels at a much higher speed than a power-driven model aeroplane, it requires much less supporting surface, while the planes may be spaced much further apart.When you have adjusted the planes, try throwing your glider at an upward angle of say forty-five degrees. It should rise swiftly to a height of upwards of fifty feet, turn backward on itself, and even describe a graceful upward curve before coming down. Now try throwing it into the wind or against a moderately strong breeze. Its course is likely to be very irregular. It will dip and rise at many unexpected angles, and probably travel several hundred feet in all before landing. During the past year, a model glider has been built by Mr. W. H. Howell, Jr., to glide a horizontal distance of 650 feet, while the actual length of the flights has been upwards of 2,000 feet.
A fascinating field of experiment is opened by combining the sling-shot principle with the ordinary glider. The speed with which one can launch a glider from the hand is, of course, limited. Now use a small strand of rubber to launch the planes, and the increased speed will not only lengthen the flight surprisingly but make possible a really remarkable spectacular flight. A small glider may be made to return to the starting point or even loop the loop two or three times before touching the ground. By a simple adjustment of the planes, these curves may be varied indefinitely.
Designs for Sling-Shot Gliders.Designs for Sling-Shot Gliders.
Designs for Sling-Shot Gliders.
When you have adjusted your glider to fly well, try the same arrangement of planes on a piece of reed, say eight inches in length, and bend the end over in the form of a hook. By heating the cane over a flame, you can make it turn without breaking and hold its position. Now loop a single rubber band over your thumb and forefinger, and passing the hook over the rubber, pull back exactly as you would use a sling shot. As you release the glider, pull your other hand quickly out of range. By using a heavier paper, one which will hold its shape, and turning the forward edges up slightly, the glider may be made to travel upward in a variety of graceful curves.
Paper Gliders. Antoinette Monoplane and Wright BiplanePaper Gliders. Antoinette Monoplane and Wright Biplane
Paper Gliders. Antoinette Monoplane and Wright Biplane
An excellent glider with wooden planesAn excellent glider with wooden planes
An excellent glider with wooden planes
A covered-frame sling-shot gliderA covered-frame sling-shot glider
A covered-frame sling-shot glider
The best glider for launching on the sling-shot principle is made from planes cut from thin metal sheets. Aluminum is the best material, but a very thin wood will answer. A one-foot model glider will be found the easiest size to manage. Cut one plane eight inches in length by three in width, and the second five inches by two inches. Round off the corners on one side of each plane, leaving a straight line for the front or entering edge.
Mount the planes on a strip of reed, cane or bamboo about eighteen inches in length. In all these gliders the forward plane is made the smaller, thereby reducing the head resistance as far as possible. The metal planes should be slightly flexed by bending them to a slight concave above the horizontal and just back of the front edge. The forward end of the stick should be bent into a large hook by heating or first soaking in water. If your glider falls quickly to the ground bend the frame a trifle upward.
Since your glider is intended to travel at a comparatively high speed, the planes may be mounted much further apart than in the case of a glider launched from the hand. Try them first ten inches apart and afterwards adjust them to suit. The rubber used for launching the glider should be fairly heavy, say three strands of one-eighth inch rubber or its equivalent. The end of the hook may need adjusting so that it will escape from the rubber on being released.
It will be found an easy matter to obtain long, graceful glides from this model from the first. By launching it upward, it may rise to a considerable height. When you have caught the trick of launching your glider with sufficient force, try a spectacular flight. Set your forward plane at an angle by inserting a block of wood between the stick. In the case of metal planes, bend up the front edge.
A very slight upward elevation will answer. Gradually increase this angle until the model sweeps upward and turns on itself. You will soon be able to make the glider describe a complete circle or loop the loop twice before landing. When traveling at such a high rate of speed, your glider is likely to be dangerous and might inflict a bad cut, and the flight should only be attempted where one has plenty of room.
These flights may be still further varied by adjusting the rear edge of the vertical plane or rudder. By turning the rudder to the right, for instance, the glider may be made to travel to the right or the direction may be reversed. In this way the glider may be made to describe a complete horizontal circle or several circles. By launching the glider upward with this adjustment, it may be made to fly in a graceful spiral.
The success of a glider depends more upon its modeling and finish of its planes than in the case of the model aeroplane. It must gain as much support as possible from the air, since it has no motive power to keep it aloft. Its head resistance must also be cut down. The ordinary cloth-covered planes, which serve well enough for an ordinary model aeroplane, will not carry a glider far. The planes must, therefore, be of metal or wood, or when built-up planes are used they must be of the most careful workmanship.
The simplest form of glider, excepting, of course, the paper model, is made entirely of wood. A glider two feet in length will be found a good size to experiment with. The model should be much heavier than an aeroplane so that one need not take the care in its construction to reduce weight which may make the construction of a model tedious. A glider of this size may weigh upward of one pound. Under favorable conditions, it will glide for two hundred feet, when launched from the hand, while if it is thrown from an elevation, an upper window or a hill top, it may travel considerably further.
Select a stout stick for your base, one inch square and two feet in length. The main plane should measure fifteen inches in width by six in depth, and the smaller plane ten inches by four inches. A thin board about three-sixteenths of an inch thick may be used for the planes.
The front corners should be slightly rounded, and the rear edges cut sharply away. These planes may be flexed by steaming. Hold the section to be bent over the spout of a tea kettle until the wood is soft and pliable enough to bend. If it does not soften sufficiently, immerse the wood in boiling water. The plane should be flexed slightly upward just back of the forward edge. A good curve may be obtained by heating the under surface over a flame.
To hold it in position until it has dried and assumed shape, bend it over a stick laid on a board and fasten the plane down by driving brads around the edges and bending them over to keep it down. Leave it in this position until it is dry and hard.
Your glider will fly better with a vertical rudder, as in the case of the paper models. The rudder should be cut from a thin board of the same material about six inches square. Round off one corner and plane or sandpaper this front edge, which will be the entering edge. The entering edges of the front plane should be prepared in the same way to reduce the head resistance as much as possible. Nail this rudder to the side of the stick directly beneath the rear or larger plane. It will be still better if you mortise it neatly into the center of the stick.
The glider is thrown with the smaller end forward. For the trial flight, mount the smaller plane at the extreme forward end and then move it backward as you test it out, until the glider moves on an even keel. To launch the glider, grasp the central stick from beneath at the point where it balances, and throw it forward with all your might. Since it travels at a much higher speed than a power-driven model aeroplane, it requires much less supporting surface, while the planes may be spaced much further apart.
When you have adjusted the planes, try throwing your glider at an upward angle of say forty-five degrees. It should rise swiftly to a height of upwards of fifty feet, turn backward on itself, and even describe a graceful upward curve before coming down. Now try throwing it into the wind or against a moderately strong breeze. Its course is likely to be very irregular. It will dip and rise at many unexpected angles, and probably travel several hundred feet in all before landing. During the past year, a model glider has been built by Mr. W. H. Howell, Jr., to glide a horizontal distance of 650 feet, while the actual length of the flights has been upwards of 2,000 feet.