CYCLING.

THE HARNESS.1.Brow Band.2.Blinkers.3.Nose Band.4.Liverpool Bit.5.Curb Chain.6.Cheek Strap.7.Throat Lash.8.Collar.9.Hames.

THE HARNESS.

When putting in a young horse for the first time, it is best to put him in a brake with a steady old horse which knows his work. The off-side is best for the youngster just at first, but he should be perpetually changed sides, as otherwise he will be apt to develop numerous bad habits, besides getting a crooked mouth. When starting get somebody to hold his head till ready to go, and then the man should run beside him for a few minutes, without holding him. Be sure to drop the hand to the horses well as they move off, and do not on any accountallow the young horse to be the first to get into his collar, as if you do he will feel the whole weight of the brake and the other horse, and be unable to move, and will in all probability jib. Once a horse has learnt that he can jib, it is a most difficult habit to break him of. Therefore, avoid letting a young horse find out that he can do so. Very often a young horse will go better through the traffic in London than he will round the Park when it is empty, as in the traffic there are so many things to occupy his attention that he will forget to resent he is made to work. If anything frightens him and he refuses to pass it, get him led by and do not hit him, as otherwise he will always associate that particular thing with being hit, and think it is the object of his fright which caused him to be hit, and afterwards either jib when he sees it again, or rush by it. Before a young horse is driven he should be thoroughly accustomed to having the harness on and the bit in his mouth. It is best to have the harness put on with very long reins, so that a man can walk behind him and make him walk as it he were being driven. His first lessons should be short so as not to worry or tire him.

Once a woman can driveanytwo horses together and make them go well, she will probably be capable of learning to drive a tandem or team. It is very hard to say which is the better of the two to begin with. Personally I think if both are going to be taken up, it is as well to start with a team, but it really makes very little difference. Of course a team requires a great deal more strength, but very often to driveanytwo horses together makes a large demand on your strength. One of the best ways of learning is to watch a good driver, both going through the traffic and driving in the country, and to pay great attention to his hands as well as the horses, so as to notice how the turns, etc., are done. An easy means of doing this is to take the box seat of a road coach when a professional is driving, and afterwards to take lessons from a road coach driver. A great deal can be learnt at first, simply by watching a person's hands, noting how a loop is made, how when the leaders are turning the wheelers are kept "off" a corner, and how the team is straightened.

How to take up Reins.

The most difficult thing for a beginner to learn is how to start the horses properly, and how to pull up well. It is absolutely necessary always to seethat the horses and harness are in their proper places, and the horses correctly bitted, as anything being out of place may easily cause a serious accident. Avoid keeping the horses waiting once they are ready to start. Go to the off-side wheeler and take the reins first in the left hand, the first finger between the lead reins and the middle finger between the wheel reins, take them gently so as not to touch the horses' mouths, then pull out a good piece of the off reins, so that the buckles and splicings may be about level when you are seated. Transfer the reins to the right hand, the middle finger between the lead and the third finger between the wheel reins, get on the box, and sit down immediately, so as to avoid being jerkedoff should the horses start suddenly. Then transfer the reins back to the left hand. All reins do not have the splicing quite in the same place, but as a rule the buckles and splicing will be about level. Gently feel the wheelers' mouths and then the leaders', the latter should be standing away from the bars. The near wheel rein may be a trifle shorter than the off, as this is the most difficult one to take up in a hurry. Be sure that the leaders have plenty of head room when starting, otherwise they will be likely to jib. Though the wheelers should start the coach, if any one of the horses is inclined to jib he should not be allowed to feel the weight of the coach when moving off. Once started the lead reins can easily be shortened a trifle. Take the whip in the right hand, and drop the left hand well to the horses just as they start, and then bring it back to its proper place. Be careful when dropping the left hand not to bend forward and lean over the reins; nothing looks worse. The proper position of the left hand is about level with the waist,the elbow close to the side, the wrist well bent, and the fingers and thumb turned towards the body, in fact practically the same as for driving a single horse or pair, but as the driver is higher over the horses and the weight of the reins is greater the hand will probably be a trifle lower.

Position of Hands and Reins.

The horses must be continually watched so as to see that each is doing his fair share of the work and that the team is absolutely straight, otherwise it will be quite impossible to get through the traffic or to turn corners properly. It is best always to shorten reins by pushing them through from the front, but at first the beginner will find it very difficult. If the team is not going straight it can generally be put right by either shortening or lengthening the two middle reins—the off lead and the near wheel—these being the two easiest to alter, being together. Of course sometimes only one rein may be wrong, and if that is the case it should immediately be either pulled out or pushed through, or three reins may be too long, and then it is very often found convenient to lengthen the short one, and then put the right hand on the reins some inches in front of the left and slide the left hand up to it. Shortening the reins by this method looksfar more workmanlike than by pulling them through the left hand from behind, and it does not jerk the horses in the mouth.

A team should always be kept well in hand, and a steady though light pressure maintained on their mouths. If a horse is found to be pulling or boring, he should be differently bitted at once, as every horse must be well under control. Before turning a corner be sure that all the mouths are felt, slacken the pace slightly, and then point the leaders in the direction and make the wheelers follow them round. A loop has to be made in the reins as the horses must not turn together, but the wheelers after the leaders. The point or loop is made by placing the right hand on the lead rein of the side to which the turn is being made, some distance in front of the left hand, this depends on the size of the turn and whether the leaders answer quickly, the rein must then be brought back to the left hand and placed under the thumb, which forms a loop and leaves the right hand free either to hit the wheelers or be put on the reins to steady the horses. When the leaders are round the corner the loop can be allowed to slide gradually through the hand, but should never be let go all at once.In bringing back the loop to the left hand, the leaders must be watched so as to tell exactly how much rein is required to be taken up, to make them turn as desired. Free horses that have been going in the lead for some time, especially if they know the road well, will only require a very small loop. Horses too, that have been in the wheel long are apt to cut the corners very short, as the wheeler on the side on which the turn is being made, recognises the sign of the leaders being about to turn, by feeling the lead rein shortened at the side of his head.

In those cases what is called the opposition point is made use of. For instance, turning to the right the near wheel rein is looped over the thumb, and the off lead is loopedunderthe first finger, to the left the off-wheel rein is looped under the first finger, and the near lead under the thumb. This is by far the easiest way of making the opposition point, as by this means either loop can be let out by itself if necessary. Be careful when taking up a loop never to let the left hand go forward to meet the right. The right hand should always bring the rein back to the left hand. By turning the left hand towards one, the near reins get shortened, and by turning itoutwards, away from one, the off reins get tightened. A great deal can be done by giving the hand. Again a slight curve to either side, not a sharp turn, may be accomplished by placing the right hand on the lead reins and one wheel rein. For instance if an incline to the right were being made, the right hand would take hold of the lead reins and the near wheel. In London, when the wood and asphalt are greasy, it is best to drive slowly, as a coach is fairly heavy and not easy for the horses to stop, in spite of the assistance given by the brake. Going through the traffic the bars should always chatter, which means that the leaders should not be doing their full share of the work, when turning, they should be quite out of draught otherwise the pole would most probably be snapped. Some coaches have a foot brake, and this is very useful, especially in traffic when a lady is driving and has to pull up suddenly, and at the same time it saves the horses' legs greatly, though it does not do to make too frequent use of it. It is best for a lady to have someone sitting on the "brake seat," to put on the brake for going down steep hills, but this person should never touch the brake till he is told to do so, as onlythe driver can know the exact moment when it is required.

When coming to the top of a hill, before going down always take a pull at the horses, shorten all the reins, and make sure of feeling all their mouths. The leaders should always be out of draught going down hill, but they should on no account be too far back on the bars as otherwise knocking up against them might cause one of the leaders to kick and get a leg over the trace. Generally when shortening all the reins on the top of a hill, the wheelers come so far back that the leaders are brought right back on the bars, and if anything, the lead reins have to be let out. It is best to begin going down hill fairly slowly, as the pace can always be increased, but it is most difficult to lessen it. When pulling up, run the right hand some way down the reins, and bring it back to the left if possible. It is as well to shorten the reins slightly in the left hand previously. When putting the right hand on the rein to steady the horses, it is a very good plan to place it over three reins only, the third and fourth fingers over the off rein and the first and second fingers over one of the others. The lead reins should never be buckled, and on roadcoaches none of the reins have buckles on them as a rule.

One of the great difficulties to be overcome at the beginning is the management of the whip. A team whip should not be too heavy, especially for a lady's use, but at the same time it ought not to be very light. A whip should always be kept hung up, and it is a very good plan to keep one handy and have it down from the wall every day for five or ten minutes' practice even after you have learnt to fold it. The common way of learning to fold or catch is to chalk a bigon the wall, and beginning at the bottom of this go upwards towards the right, swinging the lash upwards, and then allowing it to come back to the stick. The whip should be held with the first finger pointing up the stick, and the lash under the second finger. An expensive whip is by no means necessary. Schomberg, in the Brompton Road, has some useful ones at 14s. 6d. In choosing a whip it is best to get a springy one, with several knots on the stick near the quill so as to keep the thong on the stick when folded. It should balance well when held near the collar.

When on the box the whip should be held in the right hand under the thumb, with the lashtwisted a few times round the stick, which is also held under the thumb. The lash should always be in a big loop, so that there is not more than six inches to spare beyond the hand. The wheelers should always be hit before the pad with the double thong, and the leaders should be hit on the hind legs, by the end of the lash of course. When about to hit the leaders unfold the whip and bring the stick back to the side of the coach, and then by a movement of the wrist send the lash in the required direction under the bars. Afterwards bring the thong back to the stick and fold it up again. When the thong is on the stick, put the left thumb through the loop that is on the stick, pull off the lash and give it one or two turns to the left. In hitting wheelers one must remember that they cannot do their fair share of work if the leaders have too much head room, and it is quite useless hitting them without first shortening the leaders' reins. Above all, when driving a team, keep them well in hand and feel their mouths.

Tandem driving in many respects closely resembles team driving. The reins are held in the same way, and the whip is practically the same though generally rather lighter and the lash atrifle shorter, but this will depend of course on the size of the horses you are driving. Many people consider a tandem, even apart from the difference in the weight of the reins, more difficult to drive than a coach, but personally I have always considered tandem driving the easier of the two; it is easier to pull up in the traffic and you can turn in a fairly small space, though to make the horses go well they require neat, quick, handling, and exceptionally light hands. Many horses will make good tandem leaders that will not go in any other form of harness; of course, there are many too which make safe leaders, but at the same time could not be called "good." A perfect leader should be quick and free, and always be taking a slight hold of the bit, he should go wherever he is driven and not shy off omnibuses, etc. A slug in the lead is most difficult to drive, and quite takes away from the pleasure of a tandem.

There are two kinds of harness, with and without bars. With bars is supposed to be the safer of the two, but, if proper care is taken, there is practically no danger without bars, as the leader should never be allowed to get far enough back to risk his getting a leg over the trace. To turn, a loop can be taken up just the same as inturning a team, but it is necessarily much smaller, and great care must be taken not to allow the leader to come completely round. Most corners, if not sharp ones, can be turned by placing the right hand over the lead reins and one wheel rein, but a great deal depends on the give and take of the left hand. This is a most important thing, as a tandem turns very easily, a turn of the wrist being usually sufficient to move the horses across the road. When the right hand is kept on the reins, it should be in the same position as on team reins. When getting into the cart the reins should also be taken the same way as team reins, first in the left hand and then passed to the right, and finally, when seated, transferred back to the left hand. Before taking the reins to get into the cart, the whip should always be neatly folded and placed in the socket ready for immediate use. Though the wheeler starts the cart, the leader should have plenty of head room, or otherwise he will be liable to jib. A tandem is most useful for going fairly long distances at a good pace, as the weight is not great and the leader can do his full share of the work going up hill. Except when going up hill a leader should only do a very small share of thework. If proper care is taken, the danger of a tandem is by no means so great as is generally supposed, and a good tandem is a most enjoyable turn-out to drive.

Downer.Watford.MISS MASSEY-MAINWARING.

Downer.Watford.

MISS MASSEY-MAINWARING.

I hope the foregoing hints may be of some use to those interested in driving, who wish to become steady and clever whips. The most necessary things to ensure success are plenty of practice in driving different horses, and great care and attention to all the minor details. There is nothing more enjoyable than road coach-driving, in my opinion, except a day with foxhounds. But women should not attempt coaching unless they are fairly strong, and have had plenty of experience.

Before I end I cannot help mentioning one whip whose driving I have always particularly admired, and that is Ernest K. Fownes, of Rocket fame. I have often had the pleasure of seeing him drive, and a useful lesson it has been each time. It is most interesting to watch how he goes through the thickest traffic, never stopping it, and never seeming himself to stop, his horses going as one.

Ada J. C. Massey-Mainwaring.

MRS. A. C. HILLS.

Thesubject of cycling is distinctly a many-sided one. While the same general remarks which apply to the subject of exercise for women, apply also to the use of the cycle, we should remember that though every woman is benefitted by exercise of some kind, there are a few women who are not fitted to ride the cycle at all. This may seem a strong assertion from one who is devoted to cycling, and who so thoroughly believes in its health-giving properties. But though to the practised rider cycling is much easier work than walking, to the novice, or to the unskilled rider, and even to the skilled rider who is out of form, it becomes hard work. Especially in learning, an amount of muscular effort is required which some women are unfitted to undertake. Therefore, we must assume that the would-be cyclist is a person of average health, strength,and activity, and to such an one, the cycle should be a boon indeed. It is impossible to lay down rules as to who is fit or unfit to take up the pastime, for even doctors are sometimes much at fault on this point. My own view is that any girl, or older woman either, who is used to a fair amount of exercise, should be able to cycle and to cycle well,in time. But those with weak hearts or similar complaints should not attempt to cycle, any more than they should run upstairs quickly or climb steep hills.

Before leaving the health view of cycling, I wish to impress most strongly on all who take up cycling the necessity of "taking it easily" at first. Apart from the fact that actually the hardest work is in the learning, it must be remembered that even after the learner can ride without assistance, the body has to become accustomed to an entirely new form of exercise. If you took a good walker and stopped her from all walking exercise for a few months, how tired she would get when she began again. This fatigue would continue until her muscles had got into good order again, and yet walking comes naturally to everyone. Cycling does not come naturally, except in very rare instances, so how much more necessary is itto begin carefully, and let the body become gradually accustomed to it. The girl who rides ten or fifteen miles after being on a cycle only once or twice, and who—from not having mastered the art of riding—uses two or three times more exertion over it than she need, would not dream, perhaps, of walking five miles on end at a good pace. Yet she then pronounces the cycle "hard work," and says she finds no pleasure in it. No wonder!

Really to appreciate cycling many conditions are necessary, and that is why I called it a many-sided subject at the outset. First of all it is an active exercise, so those who have not been in the habit of taking enough outdoor exercise in other forms, must not expect to cycle with comfort or enjoyment until they have gradually got their general health, into a state which is known as "fit." Then when the cyclist is fitted in herself to enjoy riding, there are other things to be considered, and these I put as follows:

(a) To ride correctly; (b) to have a good cycle, suited to the particular requirements of the rider, and properly adjusted; and (c) to look well.

First then as to Riding, and here we are met by the reflection, how few women ride reallywell. It makes me sad to see how badly three-fourths of the riders one meets are getting along, and when I reflect how much more they would enjoy themselves, andhow much better they would lookif taken in hand for a time by a good tutor, I feel angry at the so-called "Instructors" one usually has to put up with at the average riding school.

When you are learning, you should if possible select a grass lawn, or failing this a quiet piece of broad road, and practice on thislittle and often. Short rides, even of a few yards, are valuable, if done frequently. The pupil should not get over-tired, or struggle on after her efforts become worrying. She should take a rest and have another turn a few hours later, and will then find the result very different. To the novice my advice is, do not trouble about mounting and dismounting without assistance, as this will come later as a matter of course.

The object must be to sit quite still in the saddle, and not to rely on the handles. Good riders never move their bodies at all, but ride with their hands just resting lightly on the handles,notpulling at them. In time it will be found the machine can be steered by just slightlyinclining the shoulders in the direction in which it is wished to turn. Above all things when you are learning do not fix your eyes on the front wheel, but look ahead. This is essential.

When the machine goes naturally in a straight line, then the rider will know that she is not only sitting well, but has begun to acquire the art of pedalling. There is a very great deal in pedalling evenly, as this not only lessens the labour but takes away all difficulty of steering. When a rider sits well and pedals well, there is practically no steering to be done, for the machine will go automatically in the direction desired by the rider, or so at least it will appear. The saddle should be so adjusted that when the pedal is at its lowest point, the foot of the rider should be just able to drop on to it naturally, without quite straightening the knee. A good way to test this, is to stretch the toe out as far as it will go (knee quite straight) and if the foot will just go underneath the pedal, no more, the length of reach is correct.

Force should never be exerted in driving the pedals, they must be "coaxed" round, for this in a word is the art of "ankling." When the pedal is at the top of the stroke, the heel should bedownward as in Fig. 1. As the pedal travels forward and down, the foot should follow it, keeping the ankle as still as possible, till at the bottom of the stroke, the toe is pointing downwards, and the heel is highest. The effect of this will be first of all to give power in riding as shown by Fig. 2. If the foot is pressed downward only, it will be in operation for a very small part of the stroke, as the pedal moves in a circle, but by ankling, it will easily be seen (Fig. 3) that power is maintained for a much longer time.

Fig. 1.

Fig. 2.

From a woman's point of view too the effect of ankling is still more important, as beside the gain in speed, it promotes gracefulness. The rise and fall of the knee in riding, is reduced by one half when the ankles are used properly, and the result to the onlookeris consequently more pleasing. For the skirt to hang gracefully and the rider to look well, there should be as little movement of the knees as possible. Therefore, if you sit sufficiently high and use your ankles properly, you will not only be using your powers to the very best advantage, and lessening fatigue, but will at the same time be attaining gracefulness, and in every way improving your appearance in the saddle.

Fig. 3.

Another important point is to keep the legsstraight up and downwhen riding. The knees should not be allowed to go either inwards or outwards on any account, and there should be no "wobbling" in the leg action. The toe and heel should be in a line, at right angles acrossthe pedal, that is, exactly parallel with the crank all the time. Take care that the heel does not twist at all (Fig. 4) on the stroke.

Fig. 4.

Learn to mount from either side of the machine, and to do so lean the machine a little toward you with the outside pedal up, and rather forward, then place your foot on the pedal furthest from you, and as you raise yourself into the saddle, the weight of your body will bear on that pedal, thus sending the opposite one up to meet the other foot.

The dress should be caught in the hand as you put your foot across the machine on to the pedal, and if any further arrangement should be necessary you will, when you are at home in the saddle, find it easy to do this as you go along. A slight pull to the side will be all that is required. When once in the saddle, do not be anxious to find the other pedal, simply keep the machine straight, as it will run a surprising distance of its own accord after the start given to it by the act of mounting, unless, indeed, you should be mounting up hill, which is never desirable for a beginner to attempt. If the foot which was onthe ground is allowed to hang downwards as soon as the rider is seated in the saddle, it will find the pedal quite naturally, in fact the pedal will come round to the foot. In dismounting as in mounting, the rider should learn to do it with equal ease and confidence from either side. When the pedal is coming upward, throw the weight upon it—this stops the momentum of the machine—at the same time rising out of the saddle, then pass the other foot over the cycle and step down in front of the pedal, on which the weight of the body is resting. A firm grasp should be kept on both handles, and the machine inclined towards the rider, on the side she dismounts.

The rule of the roadis usually ignored by cycling women, but nothing in connection with the pastime is really more important. To observe it always whether necessary or not, is to reduce the possibility of accident to a minimum. It then becomes a habit, and in an emergency the instinct is to do the right thing immediately, the value of which can scarcely be over-estimated. Always ride then to the left side of the road, whether there are vehicles about or not. Remember, it is the unexpected that always happens,and should a cart or cycle suddenly appear from a bye road, an accident will almost surely happen if you are on the side that should be free for them. If in spite of your caution an accident happens, you will at least have the chance of being compensated if you can prove that you were on your proper side at the time; you certainly would not, if you were on the wrong side. There are only two occasions on which this rule is deviated from, viz.: when passing a vehicle which is going in the same direction or when passing a led horse going in either direction. When overtaking a vehicle, never pass between it and the pavement or side-walk, for the tendency is for the driver to pull in toward the left when he hears anything behind him. With a led horse the custom is to keep the man in charge alwaysbetweenoneself and the led horse, no matter in which part of the road the latter may be. The reason is obvious, led horses being sometimes playful with their heels.

The most fruitful cause of accidents is the wrong taking of corners. The right way to do it, however, is very simple. Thus if proceeding along a road, and desiring to turn off to the left, make the curve (if possible) in the road you arein, and thus enter the other road on the left,i.e., safe side. Remember that you cannot see what is in the other road, and the act of turning will make the machine swing out more or less from the proper side (Fig. 5).

Fig. 5.

The principle is reversed when taking a turn to the right. Never cut across the nearest corner in doing this. Go nearly across the side road so as to turn into it on your proper side thus (Fig. 6).

Fig. 6.

If these simple matters are borne in mind, a cyclist may go many years without even the risk of an accident. Another thing to remember, is never on any account to lose control of your machine when descending a hill you do not know,if the bottom of it cannot be seen. Though to "fly" a hill is the height of enjoyment, safety demands that the end of the spin should be visible, or that you should know your ground thoroughly.

In the choice of a machine, remember it is very essential to have a cycle well suited to the rider. Cyclists of experience get to know their own requirements exactly and can suit their physical peculiarities, but more often than not the beginner is entirely in the hands of the cycle agent. Hence we so often see a slight, frail woman struggling along with a great, heavy unwieldy machine altogether beyond her strength, or on the other hand a heavy woman who is obviously under-mounted. For riders who are of moderate height or even a little over I believe in 26-inch wheels, but tall women should have 28-inch wheels fitted to their machines, to look proportionate to the extra high frame necessary. In the latter case everything else should be also larger. The 26-inch wheels look well for all but very tall or stout riders. The usual height of frame is about 21 inches measured from the top of the frame—the part where the seat pillar is fixed in—to the centre of the bracket axle (Fig. 7). This willaccommodate riders whose length of leg-reach is up to 32 inches or 33 inches. It is better on the whole to have the frame too short than too long. It is more rigid if short, and a little seat pillar standing out will not detract greatly from the appearance. Always ascertain that there is a margin of at least six inches between the height of the seat pillar, when down at the lowest point, and when raised to the fullest height at which it can be safely fixed. Exactly the same should apply to the stem of the handle bars, as, if the saddle is raised the handles should be raised to a corresponding degree, otherwise the rider will be in a stooping position. The exact position of the handles depends a great deal on the length of arm and length of body of the rider, but in the ordinary way the lowest part of the handles should be at least two inches above the saddle (see Fig. 7), as it is above all things necessary that the rider shall not have to stoop forward when riding. On the other hand, the handles must not be higher than is necessary for a comfortable grasp, otherwise the effect will be extremely ungraceful. As the rider sits in the saddle with her arms extended straight downward, she should be able to swing them forward exactly into the ridingposition, without bending the elbow in any appreciable degree.

In purchasing a cycle the most important points for the rider to consider are:

1. Rigidity of frame.

2. Weight.

3. Width of tread.

4. Height of pedal from the ground.

Fig. 7.

Rigidity of frame means speed,i.e., ease of propulsion. If the frame is badly designed it will yield sideways to the rider's pressure, and much of the power which would be otherwise used to send it forward will be wasted. If you grasp the steering head and the down tube of a cycle (see Fig. 7) and endeavour to twist the frame, youcan ascertain whether it is rigid or not. It should not be possible to force these two points towards each other at all, or to pull them sideways out of line with each other. If you can, there will be no chance of riding up a steep incline onthatmachine! There is another essential matter on which the purchaser can protect herself. This is to see that the cycle is properly stayed in various parts of the frame. These "stays" bind the whole frame firmly together and prevent "give" or yielding, when pressure is applied on the pedals. In addition to the "stays" in the front portion of frame (examples of which are shown in Fig. 7) there should be a stay between the two back legs, just above the back wheel.

If you are purchasing a machine with an acknowledged reputation, and made by a maker of standing, it can safely be assumed that these matters have been provided for, as they would only be omitted on the score of cheapness. Never on any account be persuaded to ride a machine which is not fully guaranteed by a well-known firm. There are so many points on which a cycle may be faulty, and the only safeguard to the rider is that the work shall have been carried out in the most careful and conscientious fashionthroughout. Therefore I would repeat never trust yourself on any but a machine by a good maker. Far better buy even a good second-hand cycle than a "cheap" new one, for the latter may cause constant trouble, to say nothing of the possibility of serious accident.

The weight of an ordinary good-class ladies' machine should not be over 30-lbs. It is possible to obtain them fully equipped at about 28-lbs., but to get them at this or less either the weight of the tyres, etc., have to be very much reduced, or the fittings are not efficient. If the tyres are very thin and light they will be constantly puncturing. The gear case too should be of sufficient stability, and the same remark applies to the dress-guards and mud-guards; in fact it is in the fittings that the weight of a cycle is found, the actual frame not weighing more than 5-lbs. as a rule. This is the reason why American machines are lighter than English, the simple explanation being that the former are fitted with the flimsiest of chain covers, mud-guard, brake work, etc., whilst the English-made cycle is properly equipped for use in all weathers.

The width of "tread" is important, as both for comfort and speed and also on the score of appearance, the rider's feet should not be wider apart than is absolutely necessary. A narrow "tread" is the sign of a well designed machine. To measure this, the distance should be ascertained between the inside faces of the two cranks, and this distance should not be above five inches.

The height of the pedals from the ground is a point which is never overlooked by a really good firm of cycle makers. It is desirable to get the pedals as near to the ground as possible for comfort in mounting and for ease of propulsion; but there is a limit, as if too low, the pedal would be likely to catch the ground when the machine leans over on a sharp corner. The consequence of this would be disastrous to the rider. There is also the lesser danger of the pedal striking a stone if too near the ground. The usual distance is about ten or ten-and-a-half inches from the centre of bracket-axle to the ground.

Suitable clothing is as necessary in cycling as in all other forms of exercise. Warmth with lightness are the things to be aimed at, while it is of the first necessity that there should be no pressure anywhere, from the crown of the head to the soles of the feet, to impede free circulation. Having said this, little moreremains to add, as each rider will naturally have her own ideas as to the underclothing she prefers, and provided this is warm enough to guard the wearer against chills and sufficiently light to prevent it adding to her fatigue, I do not think it much signifies what she chooses. Silk or woollen knickerbockers of some dark colour should of course be worn, and these which should be cut fairly full must on no account be made of very heavy material, a warm flannel lining being sufficient in any case to give warmth.

A loosely-fitting bodice, or nicely-cut coat, according to the time of year, will be found suitable, and this brings me to the part of our attire about which there is a real difficulty, namely, a well cut skirt. Of all the many so-called cycling "skirts," there are but few really suitable for the purpose, for not only is it necessary they should be useful, but it is on the way they fall that the graceful or other appearance of the rider will greatly depend. A woman may sit well and pedal to perfection, but if she has a skirt that does not hang evenly and easily on each side of her saddle, and is of the right length, she will not look well in motion.

The great difficulty is of course to get the"hang" right beside the saddle, and to ensure the fulness keeping it its proper place, I have originated a method for my own skirts which I have found answer well. This is very simple, and consists of a V shaped piece of the material of which the skirt is made being firmly stitched on below the band at the back, to hold the pleats in place. With this, the fulness does not move too easily to one side, when the necessary touch to the skirt is made in mounting.

The skirt should be cut slightly longer behind than in front, as of course when the rider is in the saddle it will hang shorter than where it falls straight down. When the wearer is standing up, the skirt should come to within six inches of the ground in front. As regards width, it should not be too full, as nothing looks more ungraceful than a skirt which flies out on either side with every turn of the foot. At the same time it must be full enough to allow complete freedom of movement. About three-and-a-half yards is generally considered the right width. When having a skirt made from a new pattern, I should always insist on having it fitted when you are seated in the saddle, as only so can you tell how it will really answer.

For keeping the skirt from blowing up, I havefound nothing better than to pass the feet through a strap of ¼-inch elastic, about nine inches in length, laid flat against the inside of the hem. These straps should be placed about ten inches on either side of the middle of front of skirt, so as to enable you to walk without inconvenience.

As a material, a light woollen cloth of dark and unobtrusive colour is in my opinion the most suitable.

For riding you should have a hat that will not catch the wind, and as shade for a part of the year is desirable, you will find nothing better than a "sailor" as a fitting accompaniment to a sensible and workmanlike dress. A common mistake is to have a heavy hat with a great deal of trimming, which cannot be comfortable during rapid motion through any but the stillest of atmospheres.

As to foot-gear, a low-heeled flexible waisted shoe is to be recommended, with gaiters for winter wear.

An important matter for all and especially for the delicate in health, who may so often derive benefit from cycling, is to guard against a chill after riding. No time should be lost after reaching home, before putting on a complete set ofdry underclothing. It is by standing about, perhaps out of doors or in a draught, till the warm glow which was upon you when you stepped off your machine has given place to a shivery feeling, that you will get harm instead of good from your pleasant spin, whereas a warm bath and a fresh set of clothing, and not even the most delicate need suffer from her exertions. If you should for any reason not find this possible without a certain delay, then put on a warm coat or other wrap immediately, and this will generally prevent you from suffering any ill effects.

You should always have your cycle dusted over and any mud carefully wiped off, directly you return from a ride. To prevent damage to the enamel, the mud should be wiped very gently with a soft wet cloth, and if this is carefully done it does not matter whether the mud has dried or not. The bright parts should be rubbed with a soft leather or "selvyt," and then a Holland cover be thrown over the machine, to keep it free from dust or any slight damp. With the exception of a rub with the "selvyt" the cycle will then be ready for use. If a slight application of a good furniture cream is made to the enamelled parts, it will brighten them considerably. Whenit is known that the machine will not be required for any length of time, all the bright parts should be smeared with Vaseline, and the machine itself should be stood in a dry place. It is best to rest it on a small stand, which is also very useful for cleaning purposes. After a long rest all the bearings should be well oiled, the lamp refilled, and the machine generally overhauled. The tyres should be kept hard. Some people let the air out when their machine is not in use, under the idea that it is good for the tyres, but this is a mistake. If the tyres are allowed to go flat, the weight of the machine will be likely to "nip" the inner tube. Above all, oil should be kept from the tyres, and if any should by chance drop on them while the machine is being oiled, it should be carefully wiped off. A tyre should not need blowing up, more than once in two or three weeks, if the valves are in good order. If, therefore, it should require inflating every day, as sometimes happens, either there is a small puncture, or the valve is out of order. If the trouble is caused by a puncture, it will generally mean a visit to the repairers, but first examine the valves in case these should be at fault, for very often a little attention to them will putmatters right. As there are so many kinds of valves a technical illustration would be of little use, but as a rule all valves can be unscrewed and examined easily. In the valve most in use, viz.: that of the Dunlop tyre, if the end is unscrewed—after the dust cap is taken off—the whole mechanism of the valve can be taken out, and this will be found to consist only of a small cylinder covered by a little indiarubber tube. This piece of rubber covers the valve hole in the cylinder, and it is the rubber which generally wants replacing. The dust cap is the small cap, attached by a little chain to the spokes, and which is screwed over the end of the valve to keep the dirt out, after the tyre has been inflated.

If the rider does not object to a little trouble, a puncture can be repaired at home, though the chief objection to the operation is the dirty state in which it is apt to get the operator, unless indeed the tyres are thoroughly cleaned first. When you buy a machine, the exact details are given with each particular class of tyre, and general instructions for repairing will be found included in the repair-outfit, which can be purchased for about sixpence. This tyre-outfit consists of a small quantity of solution—which becareful not to get on the fingers—some rubber patches, and French chalk. When the inner tube has been taken off, the valve should be refitted to it, and the tubes inflated. Then pass the tube through water, using a shallow bowl for the purpose. From each spot where there is a puncture, little air bubbles will come out whilst the tube is under water. Mark these with a pencil, let the air out—by the valve—and dry the tube. Then with a piece of glass paper, clean the tube from sulphur—till the natural dark colour of the rubber appears—where the puncture is, say for a space as large as a sixpence. Put some solution thinly on the rubber patch, let it nearly dry, and then press it down on the tube, on the spot cleaned from sulphur, and hold it there for a minute or two. The puncture of course will be in the centre of this spot if you have managed properly. A little French chalk dusted over the patch will prevent any solution there may be round the patch, from sticking to the outer cover when the tyre is put together again.

With regard to the general adjustment of a cycle, it is most essential that all the bearing parts should be in proper order, as any one ofthem will make a very great difference in labour to the rider. A few brief notes on the principal parts will enable the rider to ascertain if her mount is in proper condition to do justice to her own riding powers. First the chain. This should be oiled occasionally in its whole length, so that each joint is properly lubricated. When it has been oiled along the top half, the wheels should be revolved sufficiently to bring the other half on top for oiling. The chain must not be too tight, or the machine will be hard to drive, neither must it be too loose, or accidents will occur. The state of the chain can be ascertained by taking hold of one pedal, whilst the machine is at rest with its weight on the ground. The pedal and crank should just show the slightest perceptible movement, without moving the machine, if the chain is in good order. The pedals should revolve twenty or thirty times at least, when given a good sharp spin with the hand, and there should be no perceptible shake in them. The steering is a very important point, as if this is stiff it will increase the labour in riding. If the front wheel is lifted from the ground, its own weight should make it drop over to one side or the other, which ever way themachine lies, else the steering is too stiff for easy riding. There should be no shake whatever in the steering, the front wheel, when tested, should be immoveable from the rest of the machine, either backwards or forwards. All the bearings require a moderate oiling for about every fifty miles you ride. Olive or other clear oil is used for lubricating the bearings, and on no account must paraffin or a similar oil be used, except forcleaningthe bearings out. Most cycle depôts supply a suitable oil for lubricating. Once or twice in the year it is advisable to run paraffin through the bearings, but care must be taken to drain it all out afterwards, and the bearings should then be oiled with proper lubricant. Sperm or colza oil is good for burning in the lamp. Add a small piece of camphor to this to give a clearer light. A little paraffin may be put on the top of the wick at the burner, to make the lamp light easily, but if this is added to the burning oil, the lamp will smoke, and be liable to jolt out over rough places. If the machine is properly adjusted and well oiled, the wheels should—after being revolved—swing back and forth once or twice with their own weight. At the same time, no "shake" should be discernible sideways, butthe wheels should appear to be a rigid part of the machine.

Lillian J. Hills.

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