'The Arabs were much given to bull-fighting, and highly skilled in thelidia, whether mounted or on foot.'—Sanchez de Nieva,El Toréo.
'The Arabs were much given to bull-fighting, and highly skilled in thelidia, whether mounted or on foot.'—Sanchez de Nieva,El Toréo.
SEVILLE is so renowned in the annals of the great Spanish sport of bull-fighting, that I propose to devote a chapter to a brief history and description of the 'science of tauromachia,' or the recreation of thelidia. Mr. Leonard Williams, inThe Land of the Dons, is somewhat apologetic to his readers for introducing three chapters upon the bullfight and its history; but such is the enthusiasm exhibited for the pastime, that Mr. Williams states that thirty chapters, instead of three, would scarcely be disproportionate to the importance in which thecorridais esteemed by the Spanish nation. While making personal confession that I am not anaficionado, or enthusiast, of the art of bull-fighting, I will endeavour to convey to the reader a conception of the influence of the sport upon the Andalusian public, from which the moralist and sociologist may draw their conclusions.
There is an odour of Pharisaism in the British fox-hunter's denunciation of the bull fight on the score of cruelty to animals. But in defence of the hunter, it may be pointed out that he rarely sacrifices the life of his steed in order to be in at the death of a fox, and that he would certainly scorn to torture a worn-out and decrepit horse by riding it till it droppedwith a ruptured heart. In bull-fighting there is no pity shown for horses. The emaciated beasts, upon which thepicadores, or spearmen, are mounted, are urged at the bull, and serve as a target for its terrible horns until they are no longer able to stand upon their legs. Even when ripped open, or otherwise wounded, the bleeding, terrified creatures are sewn up, or have their wounds plugged with tow, and are again lashed and spurred to the attack.
Surely it is impossible to defend this element of thecorrida. The Spaniard does not attempt to do so; he cannot easily understand the point of view that calls for such defence. All over Spain domestic animals used in the service of man are treated mostly with callous insensibility to their sufferings, and often with cruelty that appals and disgusts the stranger. What does it matter whether an old, used-up horse goes to the knacker or into the bull ring to end its days? In Spain there is no sentimental bond between the aged, faithful, hard-working horse and its owner. The horse or mule is a mere beast of burden and of draught, to be worked as hard as possible, half-fed, cursed, abused, and at all times beaten, goaded and kicked.
It would seem that a long training in warfare, the effect of harsh rule, and the terrible example of the Inquisition form a trinity of evil that has made the mass of the Spanish people indifferent to the spectacle of certain kinds of pain. That this apathy to the sufferings of human beings and brutes is compatible with strong physical courage is a fact well supported by examples in the histories of nations and individuals. It is also true that the humane man can be exceedingly courageous. Cruelty in sport has, however, characterised other European countries than Spain, which in this matter may be said to stand where we stood,ethically speaking, in the days of bull-baiting, cock-fighting and badger-drawing. The English crowd that went to see an unhappy victim of nervous irritability ducked in a dirty pond, for the offence of nagging at the goodman, was on the same level of civilisation as the mob in Spain that enjoyed the sport of arming blind men with swords, turning pigs loose among them, and urging the sightless to hack at the pigs, with the result that the men frequently injured one another instead of the porkers.
So far, then, as bulls and horses are concerned, we can only expect to find blunted feeling in Spain. And I am not sure that we need expend much sympathy upon the bull of the arena. In the ordinary fate he has to die, and it is probable that he would prefer to live the life of a fighting bull than bear the yoke and drag the cumbrous cart along dusty, scorching high roads. At all events, the bull reared for fighting has a placid existence until he is 'warrantable'; and in the excitement of his short contest with men he may suffer much less pain than we imagine. And as for thematadores, the heroes of the populace, the favourites of the aristocracy,—well, it is their affair if they and their attendants choose to risk their lives to make a Seville holiday. The human performers in the drama are not forced to fight. If one falls, he is not flogged till he rises to face the bull again, and when injured he is tended at once by skilful surgeons.
This is really all that one can say in reply to the charge of cruelty, and it is little enough. Bull-fighting is specifically a Spanish sport, and efforts to introduce it into other countries have failed. British and American visitors to Seville are frequently to be seen at the Plaza de Toros; and at Algeciras and La Linea, the soldiers of the British garrison, and the people of Gibraltar, are the principal supporters of the bull rings. ThroughoutSpain the wordtorocreates keen interest in all classes of society. The State, the Church and the aristocracy support the recreation of thecorrida. Most of the bull rings have their chapels attached, where the performers receive the sacrament and a priestly blessing before entering the perilous arena. Ladies of the highest birth are among the breeders of fighting bulls; even some of the clerics rear beasts for the pastime, and attend the exhibitions of tauromachia. The passion for the sport is deep and apparently ineradicable in the people of Spain. Isabel the Catholic, after witnessing a sanguinary display in the ring, endeavoured to suppress bull-fighting. But not even the popular Queen could divert her subjects' interest from the absorbing sport. Moral suasion and attempted legislative methods are alike futile. The people demand the bull fight. In the very midst of war's alarms, and during civil trouble, theplazas de toroswere thronged with enthusiastic spectators. Jovellanos, Charles III., Señor Castelar, and Señor Ferreras, the editor ofEl Correo, are among those who have protested against bull-fighting. 'Spain pays no heed to any of these agitators,' writes Mr. Leonard Williams, 'but continues unmoved the proud traditions of the arena. The superb bull ring inaugurated not long ago at Barcelona was consecrated by the clergy in procession, on the very day on which a novel of the naughty Tolstoi was thrust upon the listlibrorum expurgatorum.' In Spain the schoolmaster is a bankrupt, while the famous bull-fighter receives five thousand pesetas for killing two or three bulls. There are sociological inferences to be drawn from this fact.
There is no doubt that encounters between men and bulls are of ancient origin in the Peninsula. TheMoors are said to have brought bull-fighting into Spain, and there is historical proof that exhibitions of daring in worrying and attacking bulls were one of the chief recreations of the Moorish feast days. During times of truce between Moslems and Christians, displays of tauromachia were arranged by the rival leaders, and knights of both sides took part in the ring. The great Cid distinguished himself in fights with fierce bulls, and his horsemanship in the arena was widely admired. In these early days of the sport, the tournament, orlidia, was celebrated in the largestplazaof the towns. Raised seats were erected for the cavaliers and ladies, and thefêteswere attended almost entirely by the higher classes of Andalusian and Castilian society. The combatant of the bull was mounted on a plucky Arabian horse, and armed with a lance, called therejón, a weapon about five feet in length. At a signal the bull was let loose. The knight charged the beast, and endeavoured to thrust his spear-head into the neck. An expert performer sometimes killed his bull at the first thrust. When hurled from his steed by a charge of the bull, the knight was bound by the rules of the ring to face the brute on foot, with a sword. Vassals assisted their master by essaying to draw the attention of the bull, and at the right moment the knight plunged his steel into the animal's neck.
Such combats appear to have been held in Andalusia as early as the eleventh century. In one of Goya's bull-fighting sketches, we may see a Moor, with a cloak on the left arm, and a dart in the right hand, practising thesuerte de banderilla. In the fifteenth century bull-fighting was recognised as the chief national sport. In 1567 Pius V. issued a threat of excommunication for all rulers who permitted bull-fighting within their realms, and for all priests who witnessed the shows. Fighters who fell in the ringwere denied burial with Christian rites. The Bull of the Pope was utterly disregarded. Nobles continued to erect bull rings and to arrangecorridas. The Church then exercised wonted discretion. A decree came from Salamanca that priests of a certain order might be present at bull fights, and the institution of thelidiawas made semi-sacred and wholly respectable.
At Valladolid, Charles I. engaged and killed a bull in the public arena. Succeeding kings and the flower of the nobility yearned to graduate in the art of bull-fighting. The sons ofhidalgosresorted to the slaughter-houses of the towns to practise with cloak and sword the feints and passes of thematador. A valorous bull-fighter won his way to women's hearts and to the favour of princes. In 1617 the Pope issued a Bull announcing that the Virgin was conceived immaculately and was as pure as her divine offspring. The announcement threw Seville into a frenzy of delight. Archbishop de Castro gave a splendid service in the beautiful Cathedral. Guns boomed from the ramparts of the city, and all the church bells clanged and pealed. In the bull ring, Don Melchor de Alcázar, a friend of Velazquez, arranged a special display. The Don, with his dwarf and four immense negroes, gave a remarkable show of their daring to a host of spectators.
Upon the day that Fernando VII. abolished the University of Seville, he established an academy of bull-fighting in the city. The building was constructed with a small ring for the practice of students in the art of tauromachia, and contained stables, bedrooms, and other apartments. From that time Seville was regarded as the classic home of bull-fighting, and many of the most valiant fighters were trained in that city. Then arose the professionalmatador, orespada,the swordsman who faces the bull single-handed, when it has been worried and incensed by thepicadoresand thebanderilleros.
Two of the first paidmatadoreswere the brothers Juan and Pedro Palomo. They were succeeded by Martiñez Billon, Francisco Romero and his son Juan, and José Delgado Candido, who was killed on the 24th of June 1771. The original Plaza de Toros of Seville was constructed in 1763, and from that date until the end of the century several bull rings were built in Andalusia and Castile.
'Andalusia,' write the authors ofWild Spain'has always been, and still remains, the province where the love of the bull and all that pertains to him is most keenly cherished, and where the modern bull fight may to-day be seen in its highest perfection and development. It provides the best bull-fighters and the most valued strains of the fighting bull. It may be added that the Andalusian nobility were the last of their order to discontinue their historic pursuit; and when, during the darker days of this sport, the Royal order of the Maestranza de Sevilla was created by Philip V., it was conceded in the statutes that members of the order could hold twocorridaswith the long lance annually outside the city walls. Three gentlemen subsequently received titles of exalted nobility of this order in respect of brilliant performances with the lance.' José Candido, usually known as Pepe Hillo, brought about a great revival of thecorridaafter the Bourbons had sought to discountenance the sport of the nobility.Pepe Hillois the title of a drama concerned with the valiant exploits of the celebrated master amongmatadores. Hillo, though he was said to be illiterate, drew up the rules of the sport, and even to-day he is regarded as one of the highest authorities upon the art of the bull fight.
According to Mr. Leonard Williams, Francisco Romero, of Ronda, in Andalusia, was 'the first great exponent of the moderntoreo.' Romero was put to shoemaking, but he abandoned that homely trade for the profession of bull-fighter, acting first as a page to the knights who encountered the bulls. It was Romero who introduced the pass of fluttering the cloak, or red cloth, in the face of the bull, and then, at the fitting opportunity, thrusting the sword into the creature's neck. Most of the reputedmatadoresare of Sevillian birth. In the days of Romero and his son, Juan, who died at the age of one hundred and two, there lived the famous Sevilliantoreros, the brothers Palomo, Manuel Bellón, Lorenzo Manuel, Joaquin Rodriguez, and Pepe Hillo, or Illo.
Among the Andalusian schools of bull-fighting Ronda was renowned for daring, and Seville for coolness. The intrepidity of the Sevillian bull-fighters was remarkable. Thesalto del trascuerno, or jump across the head of the bull, was one of their favourite feats. Mr. Williams tells us that the most redoubtable of all thetorerosof Seville was one Martin Barcaiztegui, called Martincho, a cowherd of Guipuzcoa. Martincho was a pupil of the famous José Leguregui, and his bravery excelled that of his trainer. 'His favourite accomplishment was to mount upon a table, when his legs were closely fettered with massive irons. The whole was then set opposite thetoril. The bull, emerging, sighted the table, covered with a crimson cloth, and charged it, when Martincho would leap along his back from head to tail, and alight in perfect safety. The table, one presumes, went flying into splinters. On a certain occasion, at Zaragoza, Martincho, seated in a chair, killed a bull by a single thrust, using his hat as amuleta.'
Martincho died in 1800, having survived the dangersof the arena. He lived for a time with the artist Goya, who has drawn his friend in several of his bull-fighting pictures. Costillares and Pepe Hillo were also celebrated for their reckless daring in the bull-fighting exhibitions of Seville. These heroes retired from the ring before Godoy influenced Maria Luisa to suppress thecorrida. For three years there was no bull-fighting in Spain. Upon the revival of the sport under Joseph Bonaparte, Pedro Romero was appointed chief instructor of Ferdinand's academy of tauromachia at Seville. Thismatadordied at Ronda in 1839. During his public career, he killed no less than 5,600 bulls.
Montes now comes into prominence among the famoustorerosof Andalusia. Francisco Montes fought for the first time at Madrid in 1832. He attracted the notice of Candido, of the academy of bull-fighters at Seville, and he was accepted as a pupil and granted a pension of sixrealesper day. Montes introduced the modern style in the art of thetorero. He wrote a treatise on bull-fighting, entitled:El arte de torear á pie y á caballo. 'Considered to be thetorero'svery bible for the infallible wisdom of its precepts.'
Thematadorof to-day is the idol of the populace; but he is not so honoured by persons of noble birth as in the earlier times of bull-fighting. Luis Mazzantini is perhaps the greatest livingtorero. Guerrita has retired. Antonio Fuentes and Reverte are accomplished bull-fighters. Montes died of injuries received in the ring, in the year 1850, at the age of forty-six.
To show the favour formerly extended to thetorero,we may quote the story of Lavi and Queen Isabel II. Lavi was a Romany by birth, and a boldmatadorof his day. During a royalcorrida, the gipsy pluckily tore out themoña, or bunch of ribbons in the bull's neck, and advanced towards the Queen. 'Here,' he cried, 'this is the firstmoñayour majesty has had the honour of receiving at my hands!'
The retinue of thematadorconsists of thepicadores, or mounted spearmen, thebanderilleros, or dart throwers, and themonos sabios, who repair the damages to the wretched horses and thrash them to their feet. Thematadoris clad in silk and gold, with a spangled cloak, which he wears in the parade of the fighters previous to the display. It is stated by one writer that a bull fight in Seville cost from £1100 to £1200. The value of each bull killed is about £70. Thematador'sfee is from £120 to £200; but this includes the fees paid by him to hiscuadrilla, or troupe. The horses are valued at from £120 to £200, according to the number killed by the bull. The cost of the seats is from apesetato threeduros. Guerrita could 'command all over Spain and in the South of France almost any remuneration.' Thebanderillerosreceive about fifty dollars, and thepicadoressomething less than that for their share in the performance.
The glory that surrounds thematadorinduces a large number of Spanish youths to adopt the profession of bull-fighting. In consequence, there is a surplus of indifferenttorerosand novices, who are awaiting their chance for promotion and for an appearance in the arena.
These hangers-on of the sport are to be seen in the Puerta del Sol of Madrid, and in thepaseosand streets of Seville. They have a 'horsey' air, and are proficient at lounging, and chaffing the women who pass by. A little pigtail hangs from the brims of their hats, and they are fond of frilled shirts, in which theydisplay paste studs. Every city and provincial town of Spain has itsaficionadosof bull-fighting. These amateurs talk learnedly uponencierros,suertes, andpases por alto. They are vain of their acquaintance with populartoreros, and they read all the literature of the beloved sport. TheHistoria del Toreois better known among these 'sports' than the poems of 'Herrera the divine.' At thecafésthey pore over the bull-fighting journals,El Toréo,El Enáno, andLa Lidia.
Mr. H. T. Finck describes the bull fight as 'the most unsportsmanlike and cowardly spectacle I have ever seen.' This author does not believe that bull-fighting is highly dangerous. 'No man,' he writes, 'who has a sense of true sport would engage with a dozen other men against a brute that is so stupid as to expend its fury a hundred times in succession on a piece of red cloth, ignoring the man who holds it.'
The bull fight not dangerous! I can imagine the indignation of the devotees of the sport at such a suggestion. Personally, I am not in a position to affirm how great or how small is the peril to the man who finds himself alone in a ring, face to face with a savage Andalusian bull. I have, however, been told by a Spaniard, living in Madrid, that the fluttering of the red cloth certainly distracts the bull's attention from its combatant, and that the animal invariably closes its eyes when themuletais whisked in its face. This 'fact,' given on the authority of my Spanish friend, may throw a side-light on the art of thematador. But I am certainly not prepared to say that bull-fighting is without danger to the human performers in the tournament. Many lives have been lost in the arena, and injuries are of comparatively common occurrence. On October 7, 1900, Dominguin was killed at Barcelona; two novices were wounded atCarabanchel; Parrao was injured at Granada, Telilas had his collar-bone broken at Madrid, and Bombita was wounded at the same place. Such was one day's list of mishaps in the amphitheatres of Spain.
Until infuriated by the lances and darts, many of the bulls are far from savage. There is the story of a bull in the arena, that recognised the voice of a lad, who had tended it on the plains, and came towards its friend with apparent pleasure at the re-meeting. On the other hand, there is the account of the bull of Muruve, who fought at Seville, in 1898, and carried a horse and apicadorupon its horns from the barrier to the centre of the ring. A strong bull will sometimes toss apicador'ssaddle high in the air; yet Mr. Williams tells us that two men are required to carry the saddle. Bulls frequently leap thebarreraof the arena, although the height is over five feet. 'At Málaga, some six years ago, a bull leaped over the barrier at precisely the same spotfourteentimes in swift succession. At Madrid, in 1898, another clearedbothbarriers,' writes Mr. Williams, 'landing with his head among the spectators, but falling back into thecallejón. On April 30, 1896, at Madrid, Ermitaño, the second bull of thecorrida, cleared the barrier four times, jamming a carpenter between a pair of doors and severely injuring him. All the above I have myself witnessed; but other feats, perfectly authenticated, are even more remarkable.'
The Plaza de Toros at Seville is a handsome building. It was constructed to seat fourteen thousand spectators. The chief fights take place on Domingo de Resurrección, and during the week of theferia, in April. The seats are arranged in boxes (palcos), theasientos de barrera(barrier seats) and theasientos de grada. A higher price is charged for seats in thesombra, or shade; while the cheaper positions, occupiedby the poorer classes, are in thesol, or sunshine.
It is fashionable to drive to thecorridabehind four or six horses or mules, with gay trappings and jangling bells. Hawkers, thieves, programme vendors and beggars throng around theplaza. The half-hour of waiting, preliminary to the first combat, is enlivened by the arrival of smart people and notabilities of the city, while the orchestra plays a selection of pieces.
Reverte or Fuentes arrives, and is acclaimed by his admirers. The knowingaficionados, who have seen the doomed bulls in their enclosure, promise an excellent show. The seats gradually fill; there is a loud hum of conversation and a waving of fans by theseñorasin thepalcos. At a signal from the President of thecorridas, the ring is cleared of the groups oftorerosand their friends. Then the band strikes up, and the bull-fighters march out, with thematadoresin front of their attendants. They salute the President. The key of the bull enclosure is thrown down, an official unlocks the door, and into the arena canters the first bull, to encounter a charge from thepicador. Sometimes the bull refuses to fight. The beast is lazy, good-tempered, or dazed. Not even the darts will enrage the creature. It gazes upon its tormentors with benign amazement. This poor sport;toromust be worried into a passion. An explosive dart is thrown at the bull. The fire burns into its nerves. It is more than the most placid bull nature can endure with patience.Torolowers its horns and rushes upon its assailants.
The spectators, men, women and children, closely watch every move and double of the fighters. Apicadoris thrown. The horse, with a ghastly dripping wound in its flank, rushes around the ring. It is met by the bull, gored, and tossed in the air. The wounded nag cannot regain its feet. Again and againthe infuriatedtorovents its rage on the struggling horse. Presently, the bull's attention is drawn from the steed, and it turns to face the gaudymatador. A thrust of a dagger ends the convulsive kicking of the dying horse.
With scientific precision, the swordsman flutters hismuletain the bull's face. At each charge thematadorbounds aside, and the beast worries the red rag. At length,torostands snorting and pawing the ground. The magnificent brute surveys his enemy with hatred, and makes another rush. Again it is thwarted. Finally, the sword is plunged deftly into the creature's viscera.Torotrembles, falls, and lies prone. Thecoup de graceis administered with a big knife. There is deafening applause, the strains of the band, and the dead bull is dragged from the ring by a team of mules.
'When I see children at thecorrida, I sigh and think of the future of Spain,' said my Spanish friend. Such expression of opinion is almost treasonable. Long live the bull fight! Humanitarian cant is not to be taken seriously. It is not only the Spanish people who love the sport. 'There are no more enthusiastic patrons of the bull ring in Madrid,' writes Mr. H. C. Chatfield Taylor, author ofThe Land of the Castanet, 'than many of the foreign diplomats, and one remembers clearly the Secretary of the United States Legation, stationed in Madrid at the time of a former visit, saying that he was an annual subscriber, and had not missed acorridaduring his entire term of office.'
In Great Britain our nobility and gentle-folk breed racehorses. In Spain the aristocracy and grandees rear bulls for the ring. The breeders of bulls aretermedganaderos. Around Seville, Jerez, Huelva and Valladolid are born thetoros bravos. At the age of one year the bulls selected for the arena are branded, and sent on to the plains to graze, in charge of aconocedor, who is assisted by anayudante. When the bulls are two years of age, they are tried for the first time to prove their pluck and pugnacity. At four years old they are put into huge enclosures of good pasturage, and in time of scarcity they are fed upon vetches, maize and wheat. From five to seventorois warrantable for thelidia. At his trial, at the age of two years, the owner of the herd invites a number of friends to the ranche. Young and clever horsemen attend these trials, and vie with one another in courage. Thecaballerosare armed with thegarrochas, lances about twelve feet in length, with short steel points. Visitors to Seville may often see parties of mounted sportsmen returning from thesetentadores, or trials.
A bull is separated from its companions. The horseman, carrying thegarrocha, pursues the brute, and attempts to overturn it by a powerful thrust on the flank, delivered at full gallop. The horseman must be a bold rider, possessed of coolness and strong in the arm. If the charge is successful,torotumbles with its feet in the air. Another rider now takes up the attack. He has a sharper spear, and is calledel tentador. Should the young bull refuse to charge, it is discarded as atoro bravo, and the slaughter-house or the life of labour awaits it. The chosen bulls are then christened, and entered upon the breeder's list of warrantable animals. In due time their names appear on the brilliant placards advertising thecorridasof Seville or Cadiz.
'Thetentaderoat the present day,' writes the authors ofWild Spain, 'affords opportunity for aristocraticgatherings, that recall the tauromachian tournaments of old. Even the Infantas of Spain enter into the spirit of the sport, and have been known themselves to wield thegarrochawith good effect, as was, a few months ago, the case at a brilliantfête champêtreon the Sevillianvegas, when the Condesa de Paris and her daughter, Princess Elena, each overthrew a sturdy two-year-old; the Infanta Eulalia ridingá ancas, or pillion-fashion, with an Andalucian nobleman, among the merriest of a merry party.'
Travelling by rail across the wide and lonely plains of Southern and Central Spain, the stranger often sees large herds of bulls, quietly grazing in charge of an attendant, who leans upon a long wooden staff, and wears a plaid upon his shoulder. The Spanish travellers crowd to the window at the magical wordslos toros, and in an animated manner the points of the herd are discussed. This pleasant pastoral life lasts for five years of the bull's life, though during that time it has to endure the trial with thegarrocha. The bulls are divided into three classes after thetientas, or trials,i.e., those of the first rank, the 'brave bulls'; those of the second order, thenovillos, which are used by second-ratematadoresand beginners, and those sentenced to death, or a life of toil. Amongst the most eminent strains of Andalusian bulls used for the ring are those of Cámara, Miura, Muruve, Pérez de la Concha, Conradi, Adalid, Ibarra, Saltillo, and Anastasio Martin.
The animals are sold from four to eight at a time, according to the status of thecorridafor which they are purchased. If the distance to the ring is short, the bulls are driven by night through the country, and pastured in the daytime. They are led by peaceable cattle with bells hung from their necks. 'These intelligent beasts keep the wild ones together and out ofmischief,' says Mr. Leonard Williams, 'with the same unerring watchfulness as a collie controlling a flock of sheep, and lightening to an incalculable extent the labours of the accompanying horsemen.' At night the bulls are driven into the town, the sides of the streets being barricaded. When the beasts are consigned to buyers at a long distance from the ranche, they are conveyed by rail in strong boxes.
Just before the encounter in the ring, thetorosare confined in thechiqueros, dark dens with strong doors that are opened and closed by ropes pulled from above. Difficulty is often experienced in coaxing refractory animals into these cells. The operation is witnessed byaficionados, who pay a fee for the privilege.
Among the best-knowngarrochistasof modern times are the Señores Don Antonio Miura, Don Faustino Morube, Don Miguel Garcia, Don Guillermo Ochoteco, Don José Silva, Don Fernando Concha, Don Agusto Adalid, Don Angel Zaldos, Don Manuel Sanchez-Mira, Marques de Bogaraya, Marques de Guadalest, Don Frederico Huesca, and the Marques de Castellones. Two of the finest exponents of the art of wielding therejón, or short lance—a weapon surviving from the early times of thelidia—are the Señores Heredia, Ledesma, and Grané. Mr. Williams says that there are not a dozen horsemen in Spain and Portugal who can successfully perform the feat of killing the bull with therejón.
'An animated spectacle it is on the even of thecorrida,' write the authors ofWild Spain, 'when amidst clouds of dust and clang of bells, the tame oxen and wild bulls are driven forward by galloping horsemen and levelledgarrochas. The excited populace, already intoxicated with bull-fever and the anticipation of the comingcorridas, lining the way tothe Plaza, careless if in the enthusiasm for the morrow they risk some awkward rips to-day.
'Once inside the lofty walls of thetoril, it is easy to withdraw the treacherouscabestros, and one by one to tempt the bulls each into a small separate cell, thechiquero, the door of which will to-morrow fall before his eyes. Then, rushing upon the arena, he finds himself confronted and encircled by surging tiers of yelling humanity, while the crash of trumpets and glare of moving colours madden his brain. Then the gaudy horsemen, with menacing lances, recall his day of trial on the distant plain, horsemen now doubly hateful in their brilliant glittering tinsel. No wonder the noble brute rushes with magnificent fury to the charge.'
The bull fight of Spain and Portugal is the modern form of the gladiatorial shows of ancient Rome. At Urbs Italica, the Roman city of old, is the ring wherein many victims of Pagan persecution were forced to combat with fierce beasts. It is but a step upwards from this sanguinary sport to the tournament with bulls, introduced into Andalusia by the Moors. The fascination of the horrible is the motive that impels men to witness exhibitions involving risk of human life and cruelty towards animals. Our bull-baiting with dogs was certainly not more sportsmanlike than the Spanish duels between knights, armed only with the lance or sword, and a fierce bull of the plains. Yet bull-baiting was a favourite diversion of the British nation from the time of King John until about a hundred years ago. In the reign of Elizabeth bear-baiting was a fashionable recreation in London, and there were 'Easter fierce hunts, when foaming boars fought for their heads, and lusty bulls and huge bears were baited with dogs' (Sports of England).
When public opinion began to recoil from suchbarbarous amusements, Windham, in the House of Commons, made a brilliant speech in defence of the sport of bull-baiting, and the Bill for its abolition was rejected. That was in 1802. Yet, no doubt, a number of our countrymen of that period were accustomed to denounce the atrocious cruelty of the Spanish bull-fighters.
Statute 5 and 6, William IV., in 1835, made bull-baiting and cock-fighting illegal. The Act enjoined 'that any person keeping or using any house, pit, or other place, for baiting or fighting any bull, bear, dog, or other animal (whether of a domestic or wild kind), or for cock-fighting, shall be liable to a penalty of £5 for every day he shall so keep and use the same.' In 1837 the provisions of this Act were extended to Ireland.
We must remember, therefore, that a high stage of culture and refinement must be attained before nations will consent to abandon cruel and dangerous contests between men and brutes, or between beasts. Even in Spain there is a growing revolt from the exhibitions of combats between bulls and other animals, which are sometimes given in the big towns. In these fights—which take place in a cage in the centre of an arena—a wretched, half-fed lion or elephant is pitted against a bull. Cock-fighting still flourishes in the Peninsula. It is popular in Seville, and like bull-fighting, the sport has itsaficionadosin every town and hamlet. Sunday, after Mass, is the favourite day for a display of cock-fighting. Thesefunciones gallisticashave been described by one or two writers upon Spain, who agree that the diversion is of a degrading character.
Those among my readers who are interested in bull-fighting, its history and its anecdotes, will find a chapter on 'Tauromachia' in that fascinating workWild Spain, by Mr. Abel Chapman and Mr. Walter J. Buck.A full account of the sport, and the most modern of all the numerous contributions to the literature of the bull ring, is that in the three special chapters of Mr. Leonard Williams'sThe Land of the Dons, published in 1902.
MOST English visitors to Seville travel by way of Paris, Irún, the Spanish frontier town, and Madrid. By this route the interesting towns of Vittoria, Burgos, Valladolid and Segovia may be visited should the tourist's time permit. Many travellers break their journey at Madrid, spend a day or two in that city, and proceed by the night-express to Seville. For comfort, it is advisable to take the south expresstrain de luxefrom the Quai D'Orsay, Paris. This train is made up of first-class carriages only, and provided with sleeping berths, for which there is an extra charge. By the ordinary express trains the journey is slower, and the traveller has to provide his sleeping accommodation in the shape of rugs and pillows. A pillow may be hired at most of the large Spanish railway stations for one peseta,i.e., sevenpence half-penny in British money.
Railway travelling in Spain is not luxurious. The first-class compartments are usually stuffy, and at night they are ill-lighted, while the second-class carriages will not compare with the English third-class. Compartments of thetercera clase(third-class) are uncomfortable and cushionless. They may be used for short day journeys in Spain by the stranger who wishes to come into touch with the people. As a rule, the third-class passengers are quite orderly in behaviour, and the foreigner need not fear to travel with them.Still, from the point of view of comfort, the Spanish third-class cannot be recommended, especially to ladies.
The journey by rail from Madrid is across the monotonous plains of La Mancha, made world-famous by the exploits of Don Quixote, through interminable olive gardens, wide grass meadows, and by groups of bare and fantastic rocks, to ancient Córdova. Thence we reach the fertile land of Andalusia, follow the windings of the clay-stained Guadalquivir, and come into the district of the cactus and almond tree, and a semi-tropical climate.
Before leaving the railway station square, the stranger must submit to the inspection of his luggage by the customs' officers (consumos), who are on the watch for taxed articles. Usually the search is a mere formality, as English visitors are rarely regarded as 'suspects.' Assure the officer that you have nothing to sell, and he will in most instances refrain from overhauling your baggage.
Hotel omnibuses, cabs and outside porters await the arrival of every train at the Estación de Cordoba. The fare for a one-horse carriage to any part of Seville, with one or two passengers, is a peseta, and for each piece of luggage the charge is from half-a-peseta to a peseta. The driver expects apropina('tip') of at least half-a-peseta. Avoid hotel touts and loafers who crowd outside the railway station.
Hotels.—The majority of English and American visitors stay at the Hôtel de Madrid, at the corner of the Plaza del Pacifico. It is a large house, with a court in the Moorish style, adorned with palms. The position is central. The boarding terms are from about twelve pesetas per day, but the charge is from about fifteen pesetas in the spring season. The Hôtel de Paris is also in the Plaza del Pacifico. Herethe tariff is about ten pesetas per diem, and the cuisine is of the first-class Spanish order.
Smaller, but comfortable, hostelries are Hôtel de Roma and the Hôtel Europa, with a pension tariff of ten pesetas. If the visitor desires to see something of the life of Spanish people of the middle-class, he will prefer to take up his quarters in one of the minor hotels. Such a house is that of Juan Zamanillo, Hôtel de la Victoria, in the Plaza Nueva. The charge here is from five pesetas a day, which includes a comfortable bedroom, with clean linen and mosquito curtains to the bed, luncheon (almuerzo), and dinner (comida). The Victoria is frequented by English artists, and the proprietor is accustomed to English guests. The head waiter is an intelligent man. In hotels of this order the sanitary arrangements are Spanish. Even in the first-class houses of Spain these arrangements need improvement. On the other hand, the rooms are scrupulously clean, the cuisine very fair, and the bedrooms comfortable.
At most of the hotels there is an extra charge for the early breakfast (desayuno), which consists of a cup of chocolate, flavoured with cinnamon, or ofcafé con leche(coffee with milk), and a small roll without butter. Many Spaniards take a cup of coffee in their bedrooms about half-past eight in the morning, and do not eat until luncheon, which is usually served in Seville from eleven till one. Visitors who are accustomed to a substantial breakfast often find themselves somewhat faint by the hour ofalmuerzo. The two meals are much alike in their courses. Soup, fish, meat or poultry, salad, cream cheese of Burgos, fried potatoes, various kinds of cakes and fruit are served at luncheon and dinner. The table wine is provided free of charge, but it is often of a very inferior quality, and should be used sparingly, especially in hot weather.A cheap, palatable wine is the Rioja. Mineral waters can be had at all the hotels andcafés.
At the Spanish houses, as distinguished from the hotels mostly frequented by foreigners, Andalusian dishes form the chief part of themenu. Shad, sea-bream and codfish, garnished with onions, are served cold.Pollo con arroz(fowl with rice), and curried rice, with cockles and sausages, are favourite dishes. One course is usually composed of stewed mutton, or beefsteaks grilled. The meal begins with eggs, boiled, poached, or made into savoury omelettes. Those visitors who do not enjoy the flavour of garlic should say to the waiter, "No ajo, sirvase,"i.e., "No garlic, if you please," before ordering an omelette. In the larger hotels the cookery is usually French, with an occasional dish of the country.
Cafés.—Spaniards spend a good share of their leisure time in thecafés. In Seville the chief resorts of this kind are in the Calle de las Sierpes, the Calle Tetuan, and the Plaza Nueva. It is the custom in Spain to make business appointments and to arrange friendly meetings in thecafés. The drinks are coffee, chocolate, tea, wines, liqueurs, and mineral waters. Coffee is usually taken black, with cognac. The spirits arecaña,agua ardiente, and cognac. A favourite liqueur is anisette. At some of these houses Bass's ale and Scotch whisky can be obtained. The Spanish bottled cider (sidra) is a refreshing drink, mixed with lemonade, in hot weather.
An English medical practitioner, Dr. Dalebrook, resides in the Calle Albareda, leading out of the Calle Tetuan. A guide, whom I can recommend as well-informed, is Señor Carlos Rudé, 22 Otumba. Señor Rudé is known as "Charles" by the English visitors. He speaks English well, and can obtain entrance to private collections of paintings in the city.
A large stock of interesting photographs of Seville, pictures and characters is kept by Señor Julio Beauchy, 24 Calle de Rioja.
'Sevilla' (A volume in the series 'España')—Don Pedro de Madrazo.
'Annales de Sevilla'—Don Ortiz de Zuñiga.
'Sevilla Histórica,' etc.—By 'A Son of Seville.'
'Histoire des Arabes d'Espagne' (3 vols.)—De Circourt.
'Memoirs of the Kings of Spain' (5 vols.)—W. Coxe.
'History of Spain and Portugal'—Dunham.
'Ferdinand and Isabella'—Prescott.
'History of the Reformation in Spain'—T. M'Crie.
'The Ottoman and the Spanish Empires'—L. Ranke.
'History of the Reign of Philip II.'—R. Watson.
'Philip II.'—Prescott.
'Charles V.'—Armstrong.
'Recherches sur l'histoire et la littérature de l'Espagne'—Dozy.
'Spain'—H. E. Watts.
'The Moors in Spain'—S. Lane-Poole.
'The Inquisition'—Llorente.
'The Story of Spain'—E. E. and S. Hale.
'Historia de la Ciudad de Sevilla'—Joaquin Guichot.
'Historia de Sevilla'—Alonso Morgado.
'Antigüedades Prehistóricas de Andalucia'—Miguel de Gongora.
'Descripción Artística de la Catedral de Sevilla'—Cean Bermudez.
'Seville Mosque Cathedral' (Paper Architect. Society)—R. H. Carpenter.
'An Architect's Note Book in Spain'—D. Wyatt.
'Annals of the Artists of Spain'—Sir W. Stirling-Maxwell.
'Spanish and French Painters'—G. W. Smith.
'Velazquez'—G. C. Williamson.
'The Industrial Arts of Spain'—J. F. Riaño.
'La Giralda'—A. Alvarez Benavides.
'Alcázar de Sevilla'—J. Gestoso y Pérez.
'La Imprenta en Sevilla.'
'Velazquez: Life and Work'—G. H. Stokes.
'Renaissance Architecture and Ornament in Spain'—A. N. Prentice.
'Seville Cathedral' (article in 'Macmillan's Magazine,' May 1903)—Havelock Ellis.
'History of Spanish and Portuguese Literature' (2 vols.)—Bouterwek.
'History of Spanish Literature'—Ticknor.
'The Spanish Drama'—G. H. Lewes.
'Vida de Cervantes'—M. F. Navarette.
'Tipografía Española'—Mendez.
'Spanish Literature'—H. Butler Clarke.
'Life of Cervantes '—J. Fitz-Maurice-Kelly.
'Cervantes'—H. E. Watts.
'Letters from Spain'—Doblado (Blanco White).
'Handbook for Spain'—R. Ford.
'Old Court Life in Spain'—F. M. Elliott.
'The Bible in Spain'—Geo. Borrow.
'Spanish Vistas'—G. P. Lathrop.
'Voyage en Espagne'—T. Gautier.
'Spain and Portugal' (Handbook)—Karl Baedeker.
'The Zincali'—Geo. Borrow.
'A Summer in Andalusia' (2 vols.)—R. Bentley.
'Seville' (article in 'Harper's Magazine,' March 1901)—Arthur Symons.
'Spanish Cities'—C. A. Stoddard.
'The Land of the Castanet'—H. Chatfield-Taylor.
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