Oat field at La Plonge.
Oat field at La Plonge.
Mr. Crean reports having seen wheat and oats growing at the Roman Catholic mission at the junction of Beaver and La Plonge rivers on September 4, 1908. Mr. Crean says in his report:—“The wheat was a first attempt, but will be tried on a much larger scale this year. The small patch sown last year must have been put in late in the spring. It appeared well matured but frosted; this I fancy was due to its being planted close to the river. The priest has cleared a good sized patch, perhaps about ten acres, which he intends sowing in wheat. The oats were splendid and grew to a great height. The vegetables were especially good. The variety astonished me. Almost every vegetable was represented and appeared to thrive. Potatoes, cabbage, cauliflower, lima beans, green peas, carrots, turnips, onions, lettuce, beets, parsnips, and tomatoes all growing splendidly.
I Never Saw a Better Garden,
and indeed I don’t remember seeing as good in the west. This garden is indicative of what can be done. The land around the mission is all good and easily cleared as it is covered with poplar.
Mr. Crean reports that in 1908 the priests at Ile à la Crosse had about three acres in use as a garden. The Hudson’s Bay Company’s post had about thirty-five acres ploughed and five acres in oats, which sell at that point at a dollar per bushel. “The Hudson’s Bay Company grows potatoes for sale, but the native, being almost entirely a flesh eater, looks on vegetables with contempt.”
Mr. Crean stated that there were some good gardens at Canoe lake. One Chipewyan grew some barley but cut it too soon. At the southwest of Canoe lake the country rises considerably, and the soil is good. There is no settlement but the country is adapted to farming.
Potatoes at Buffalo river.
Potatoes at Buffalo river.
“At Buffalo river there is quite a large settlement of Chipewyans. They grow quite a little barley and some oats. The Chipewyans and some half-breeds seem not to care for flour when left alone and so they grow barley in preference to any other grain. It is easier to cook, being just thrown in soup. The land on the northerly side of Buffalo lake is good but there are no people living there. The Chipewyans at Buffalo river told me that they never heard of the crop of barley being a failure for the past fifty years.”
At Methye lake, according to Mr. Crean’s report, there is a Roman Catholic Mission near the east end, and a priest, Father Pinard, is in charge. He has a small garden and had a little patch of barley. Both did well. At the Hudson’s Bay Company’s post, ten miles away, on the west side of the lake, there is a garden of about an acre. It looked splendidly on September 17. The potato tops were not touched by frost. The swamp through which Methye river flows, though very wet, produces
A Large Quantity of Hay.
The winter supply of feed for the cattle on Methye portage in its palmy days was grown at Methye Post and at Buffalo lake at the mouth of Methye river (hence called Bull’s House), but now there is no necessity for raising grain or fodder, the Hudson’s Bay Company having abandoned this route to the Mackenzie about the time of the Riel Rebellion in 1885. Mr. Crean says:—“From conversation with the natives, the priest and the Hudson’s Bay Company’s manager, I feel sure that the climate here would be quite favourable to wheat raising. I am informed by the residents that this section is not affected by early frosts, and the gardens which I saw certainly bear out their statements.
“Pigs will, I firmly believe, thrive well in the north, and sheep will at any rate not suffer from the raids of the coyote.
“Although the north may never seriously compete with the more southerly latitudes in the wheat market, still, by judicious mixed farming, it will eventually be equally productive and
Support a Dense, Thriving Population.
Mr. Crean thus described Clearwater river and valley:—“The Clearwater is a stream varying from one hundred to three hundred feet wide. It is fairly rapid, and generally about four feet deep. At several points along the river there is a considerable fall where a substantial amount of power might be developed. The valley is from half a mile to three miles wide, and generally contains magnificent soil. In the upper region the timber is large and almost completely covers the valley. On the slopes of the valley, which are from two hundred to six hundred feet long and rather steep, the timber still continues, poplar and some spruce, but once the bench land is reached there are some large openings, and hay meadows to be found. When the railway reaches McMurray, there is no doubt that a large agricultural settlement will take possession of this beautiful valley.”
Mr. Crean writes in his report:—“The valley of Clearwater river would, in my opinion, be a magnificent cattle range, and should be a farming country. There are large open prairies, and the grass is splendid. Vetch and pea-vine grow everywhere. I was greatly impressed with Clearwater valley; it is quite similar to North Saskatchewan valley. The soil is a good loam with a sandy clay subsoil. I had ample opportunity to observe it carefully as the whole place in the vicinity of the portage is pitted with prospect holes. The loam would be about a foot deep on an average.”
As to natural pasturage and hay in the area explored by him in 1908, Mr. Crean states:—“Along Big river in the southern portion of the tract is
A Splendid Ranching Country.
Hay abounds, and water and shelter is easily obtained. The country is principally open, dotted with bluffs of poplar, and hay is to be had everywhere. The grass cures here and the rolling hills would be blown clear of snow which would afford a winter range for stock almost equal to the Porcupine hills in southern Alberta. Farther north, however, the country is too flat until Methye portage is reached.The valley of Clearwater river below Methye portage would furnish a cattle range that to my thinking would be hard to beat. I am informed that there is even a better cattle range in the valley of Pembina river, southwest of Methye portage, but I did not see it. Generally speaking, in my opinion mixed farming would be the industry best adapted to the entire tract explored. Everywhere I travelled there was an abundance of hay and along the main routes hay was stacked in quantities in many places but always with an eye to proximity to the trail. Sometimes the meadows would be small but always numerous. At Green lake there were particularly fine meadows, and I am told to the west of it is even better.”
Mr. Crean, in the report covering Green lake, Ile à la Crosse, Methye portage, Snake lake and Lac la Ronge sections, writes:—“It may be said that the whole tract though not exactly fitted for agricultural settlement throughout in its present state, is still capable of producing large quantities of cereals and farm produce and supporting a large population. The over abundance of water and lack of natural drainage, causing large swamps and muskegs, might in my opinion be easily remedied by clearing out some of the rapids on Churchill river and providing outlets for the surplus water where natural outlets are lacking.”
Mr. Crean has the following general remarks to make as to the soil of the district covered by his explorations in 1908:—“The soil throughout the district varies so much that a general report of it would be inadequate. In the southeasterly portion the soil is good, being a light loam, with a blue clay subsoil; towards the west the soil is light loam with sandy clay subsoil. North of Montreal lake the soil is still good but large stones occur more frequently till at Lac la Ronge rock outcrop is met with. There are of course fertile spots where the soil attains a considerable depth, but no large compact areas of land occur in the northeastern part of the tract explored, except at Stanley, where perhaps three thousand acres of arable lands may be found in one block. To the west of Lac la Ronge though rock outcrop continues; fertile spots occur more frequently, till at Trout lake there is no sign of rock. The soil around Trout lake is light and rather sandy. Muskegs occur frequently until Snake lake is reached. Sandy river flows through a large hay meadow, bounded on the west by a muskeg or peat bog, extending westerly to Ile à la Crosse lake. This hay meadow varies in width from one quarter of a mile to three miles. Abundance of good hay might be cut along this river. This whole country between Snake lake and Ile à la Crosse lake,
Needs Drainage
and there are few high spots in it except along the shore of the lakes or rivers. On the west side of Ile à la Crosse settlement there is practically no land fit at present for cultivation, the country being all low and almost a muskeg. I explored this side pretty thoroughly for a distance of about sixty miles and found it to be practically all the same, and almost the same level as the lake. Along what is termed Deep river, connecting Ile à la Crosse lake and Little Buffalo lake, the banks are higher and the land good, but this is only a fringe along the river, seldom extending more than half a mile inland. These muskegs could, of course, be easily drained. The soil around Buffalo lake is light, but appears to be fertile. It is generally alight loam rather inclined to be sandy, with a sandy subsoil. In some places the soil is much heavier and is very fertile. Methye river flows through an immense swamp, which extends for miles on each side, no ridges being even in sight. At Methye lake the soil is very much better, being a heavy loam varying from eighteen inches to almost any depth. Once the height of land at Methye portage is crossed on the portage, the whole country towards the west takes on a far better aspect, and the soil appears to be as good as could be desired.”
With special reference to climatic conditions, Mr. Crean, in the report of his explorations in 1908, says:—“The climate seems well adapted for raising any cereal. In fact, wherever wheat has been tried it has grown successfully. At Methye portage, which is considerably north (Latitude 56° 35′ 11′′), oats and barley have been grown. Wheat was not tried, but I feel sure it would grow successfully, notwithstanding the relatively high altitude. Methye portage has an altitude of about one thousand six hundred and seventy-seven feet as compared with one thousand three hundred and ninety-eight feet at Prince Albert. It is very much above the general level of the country to the south and east.”
Low Altitude and Long Summer Day.
Mr. Crean quotes Professor John Macoun’s remark that “in considering the possibilities of agricultural development of all this modern country, one fact to be kept steadily in mind is the advantage of the low altitude and the long day, which are fixed conditions and will always remain the same,” and gives a table verified by Doctor W. F. King, Chief Astronomer of the Department of the Interior, to compare the hours of sunshine on specified days during the summer at Ottawa, Prince Albert, and Methye portage. On May 1 the length of the day between sunrise and sunset at Ottawa (45 north latitude) is 14 hours, 4 minutes; at Prince Albert (53 north latitude) 14 hours, 46 minutes; at Methye portage (56.36 north latitude) 15 hours, 12 minutes. June 20, the hours of sunshine are as follows:—Ottawa, 15 hours, 26 minutes; Prince Albert, 16 hours, 42 minutes; Methye portage 17 hours, 30 minutes. For August 20 the figures are:—Ottawa, 13 hours, 42 minutes; Prince Albert, 14 hours, 17 minutes; Methye portage, 14 hours, 36 minutes.
Mr. Crean states that in 1908 “The first frost registered by my thermometer was on October 2, when the thermometer fell to 24 degrees Fahr. I was at Methye portage on September 17, and the potato tops were not frozen in the least. The garden was also quite untouched. Nor had I seen any frozen vegetables on the way up. . . . . . . The lakes began to freeze on October 20, but remained open for perhaps two weeks, the weather turning quite mild again. There was not sufficient snow to travel with dogs until November 20, and the snow was not deep until December 15. The rainfall in this district is ample, though not excessive, and its uniformity from year to year is a valuable feature. As far as I could learn the heaviest rains occur in the early summer
Just When Rain is Most Needed
for agricultural operations. The snow fall is not generally heavy, seldom exceeding eighteen inches, and, as with the rainfall, is uniform.”
Green Lake settlement.
Green Lake settlement.
As to agriculture, actual and possible, in Green lake district, Mr. Crean reports:—“At and around the Hudson’s Bay Company’s post on the north end of Green lake there is a considerable settlement of half-breeds. A Roman Catholic mission is established here. Revillon Frères have also a post. The priest has a good garden having all kinds of vegetables, and also a small fruit garden growing currants, gooseberries, raspberries and strawberries. These all thrive and mature. Green lake is important as a stopping place for freighters in winter and consequently large quantities of hay are stacked. Some oats and barley are grown but no real effort has been made to farm. Father Teston of the mission says that he has grown oats and barley for fifteen years in succession and so far has not had a failure. I interviewed a native named Morin, who said that he had grown potatoes, oats and barley in small quantities for thirty-five years and could not recall having ever had a failure. He has never kept a record of when he sowed or when he harvested, neither has the Reverend Father. Morin owns thirty-five head of cattle and twelve head of horses. He has sown wheat on six or seven occasions and it always ripened. In his opinion there is no doubt that wheat could be raised anywhere in the locality. The ice in Green lake goes out early and it is generally very late before it freezes. The summers are always warm and there is ample rain. The gardens, which I saw here, were certainly fine although they were not cared for as they should have been. Weeds were allowed to grow in profusion.”
In his report of his explorations in 1909 along the west side of Green lake, Mr. Crean wrote:—“The crops were not very far advanced when I was there, nor indeed did any resident sow grain to any extent. There was a small field of oats, a small field of barley and the usual gardens. The gardens, as is customary in the fur country, are neglected; but yet the vegetables seem to grow in profusion.Lettuce and radishes in fourteen days grow from the seed to a size fit for table use. On Sunday, July 14, I saw some radishes one and one-half inches in diameter, fourteen days’ growth.”
Meadow lake district.
Oat field at Meadow lake.
Oat field at Meadow lake.
Mr. Crean reports most favourably on Meadow lake district, west of Green lake. He says:—“This section of the country is practically prairie and contains, in my opinion, some of the very finest farm land in Canada. The soil is exceedingly rich, there being in some portions twenty-four inches black loam, with clay subsoil. The open prairie country is perhaps twelve miles wide, and extends from Meadow lake almost to the fourth meridian. At the Indian Farm Instructor’s house there was a plot of about five acres of the finest of banner oats. I could not obtain any data as to when these oats had been planted, but saw it on August 1, when it looked very well with good promise of ripening in plenty of time before the frosts. A settler named Evans is situated on the northern boundary of the Indian Reserve. In his garden I saw beans, tomatoes, peas, cauliflower, onions, carrots and parsnips, all doing very well. Mr. Evans came into this country last winter, at least just before the spring, broke this land, harrowing it as well as possible, and planted a garden on the sod on June 12. At Meadow lake there are two or three large herds of cattle which are thriving well. The grass at Meadow lake grows perfectly, and is of the very finest quality for feed. The snow may be deep here, but hay is so easily procured that I am of the opinion that it would balance the scarcity of winter range. There was considerable disagreement amongst the people living in this country as to whether the grass really ripened. I satisfied myself later on (in October) that it really does ripen. The few settlers agree thattwo loads of hay will winter one animal, that is, two loads for each head of stock, whether yearling or full grown. Hay grows in such profusion that two loads to the animal could easily be obtained for even a large herd of cattle. There is little doubt that cattle fed and finished make better beef than range cattle, and the opportunity of procuring finishing food (ensilage) is always present in the northern latitudes. Hay here is by no means slough grass, but it is the
Finest of Northern Upland Hay.”
Professor John Macoun speaks in the highest terms of the nutriment contained in this kind of hay. That there is ample of it is a certainty. An old settler in this country is Cyprian Morin, who is a fine specimen of the old half-breed or native; born at Methye portage in 1834, he is now as active as a man of thirty. Morin’s mother died four years ago at the age of one hundred and nine years. She was at that time quite capable of doing a good deal of work; in fact, I am told, attended to all the baking. Morin who runs a trading post and has raised barley and garden vegetables every year for twenty years, has also eighty head of cattle and some thirty five horses; he has never tried wheat. He says that the grass must ripen in this country (and it does), as the horses remain fat all winter. About eight miles to the west of Morin, a man named Fiddler has located, who has one hundred and fifty head of cattle and sixteen horses. Last winter his losses were extremely heavy. He told me that he lost seventy head of cattle, but said that it was because the cattle had not recovered from their travelling over the trail from Battleford. William LaRonde who also lives in this locality, his place being situated on Meadow lake, has fifty head of cattle, all doing well. Reverend Father Cochin has lately opened a mission here, and has a rather nice little church, which is not yet finished. He has a good garden this year.”
With reference generally, to the whole area of country explored by him in 1909, Mr. Crean stated in his report:—“In estimating the area of land available in its present state for agriculture, I do not wish it to be understood that it is one large tract, but that ten million acres of land in large and small tracts out of the total is capable of producing crops, which will enable settlers to make a comfortable livelihood. The land is almost entirely covered by a growth of small poplar. There are some open places and a good deal of swamp. I will, however, refer to this when dealing in detail with the tract. The climatic conditions prevailing throughout offer no obstacle to farming, and wherever experiments in agriculture have been attempted they have always been successful.”
Whitefish Lake District.
Mr. Crean has this to say of Whitefish lake district (southwest of Methye lake), which he explored in 1909:—“This section lies almost upon the height of land between Arctic ocean and Hudson bay. The land is drier and of a better quality than that to be found at or around Buffalo lake; still, as is often the case in this north country, one finds muskegs, almost impassable, either on top of, or very often half way up a considerable hill. There are a great number of muskegs betweenMethye portage and Whitefish lake, the country being flat and in need of draining. Whitefish lake is two hundred and forty feet higher than Methye lake, that portage which leads from it to Gypsy lake (eight miles in length) crossing the actual height of land. From Gypsy lake the water empties into the Clearwater, thence to the Athabaska and Arctic ocean. The natives at Whitefish lake grow turnips, carrots, parsnips and potatoes, but lack seed of any other kind. The potatoes are completely worn out and change of seed is certainly necessary. Going southwest from Whitefish lake towards Pembina river, the land improves, some very fine semi-open country being encountered. The Indians at Whitefish lake, who travel a great deal, use horses rather than canoes. The horses which I saw were not noticeable either for their condition or their breeding, the former being extremely poor, and the latter being absent,—Indian cayuses of the common type.”
Waterhen lake district.
As to Waterhen lake district north of and across Beaver river from Meadow lake district, Mr. Crean, in his 1909 report, states:—“The country surrounding Waterhen lake is for the most part good, especially that portion which lies to the west of the lake, where there is some very fine land. Hay grows everywhere, and though the country can generally be considered wooded there are large openings. The land around Island river and Island lake (Lac des Isles) is included in this tract. From Island lake to Beaver river there is a portage of twelve miles, which passes through the finest semi-open country. Pea vine and vetch are found in abundance. This good land extends to the fourth meridian, perhaps beyond, but I did not go any farther. No crops are grown. Indians there depend entirely on game, fish and fur for a somewhat precarious living. Waterhen river passes through a very large hay swamp shortly after flowing out of Waterhen lake. As it approaches Beaver river, however, the land becomes more of a muskeg, and although there are ridges containing arable land, the whole country may be taken to be sorely in need of drainage.”
Mr. Crean did not go into the region north of Clearwater river, but he made enquiries regarding it, and has the following to say about it in his report:—“The country to the north of the Clearwater has not been explored even by fur-traders or Indians. Occasionally one meets a half-breed who has travelled through it, and the rumour current amongst the fur-traders is that the country contains nothing but small lakes, jackpine and rock outcrop. Still, the Indians who trap in this country kill nothing but beaver, which, it is well known, live upon poplar; therefore I concluded the country must be a poplar country and of some promise agriculturally.”
North of the Churchill.
Most of the information we possess as to the most northern portion of the region under review, namely the country north of Churchill river, is contained in the report by Mr. J. B. Tyrrell of the exploration conducted by him in 1892. This report covers an area of about sixty thousand square miles, bounded on the south by Churchill and Clearwater rivers; on the west by the lower portionof Athabaska river; on the north by Athabaska lake, Stone river, with its expansions, Black and Hatchet lakes, Wollaston lake and Cochrane or Ice river; on the east by the lower part of Cochrane river, Reindeer lake and Reindeer river. It lies between north latitudes 55° 20′ and 59° 37′, and east longtitude 101° and 111° 30′.
Mr. Tyrrell, in his report, gives some interesting information as to the great lakes and the rivers which are such conspicuous topographical features of this area.
Reindeer lake, from which Reindeer river flows, has an area of about two thousand two hundred square miles, and an elevation above the sea of one thousand one hundred and fifty feet. Its water is very pure and clear.
Wollaston lake is a large body of beautifully clear transparent water lying in a general north-and-south direction, with a greatest length of about fifty-five miles and an approximate area of eight hundred square miles. Though smaller than Reindeer lake, it is very similar to it in general character. Very many rocky islands rise abruptly out of its clear blue water. Wollaston lake is the dividing line between the waters flowing to Churchill river and those flowing to the Mackenzie, for it is not only drained by Cochrane river, toward the Churchill, but Stone river flows from its northwestern side, towards Lake Athabaska.
Lake Athabaska lies in a general east-northeasterly and west-southwesterly direction, its southwestern end being in northern Alberta. This lake has a greatest length of one hundred and ninety-five miles, a greatest width of thirty-five miles, a shore-line of four hundred and twenty-five miles and a total area of two thousand eight hundred and fifty square miles. Its depth has not yet been determined.
Cree lake is a large elongated body of pure transparent water lying in a general northeast and southwest direction, with a greatest length of forty-nine miles and a width as yet undetermined. Cree river discharges its waters towards Lake Athabaska.
Geikie river is, as far as is known, the principal tributary of Wollaston lake. It rises in some small lakes near the source of Foster river, and flows northeastward through a thickly drift-covered country. For long stretches it is straight and without current, giving the appearance of a wide, quiet river, or a chain of long narrow lakes.
The principal tributaries of the Churchill river on the north are Mudjatik, Haultain, Foster and Reindeer rivers. Mudjatik river is a swift, winding stream about eighty miles in length, generally flowing in a shallow channel through a sandy plain, in the bottom of a wide depression between ridges of granite. It is obstructed by comparatively few rapids, and these are for the most part over ridges of boulders.
Mr. Tyrrell, and his assistant, Mr. Dowling, considered the whole of the far northern part of this region as
Absolutely Unsuitable For Agriculture.
It is mentioned, in the report, that, under the trees at White Spruce rapid, on Geikie river, pembina berries, raspberries, etc., were growing in profusion in July, but no areas of arable land were found. All references to the soil are unfavourable, these for instance:—“There is no soil of any value for agricultural purposes along Mudjatik river.”
“The country surrounding Cree river is sandy and very barren.”
CHAPTER VII.
A Rare Bit of Sylvan Beauty.—Ash-Leaved Maples Successfully Grown From Seed.—Notes by The Way on Available Water Powers.—Much Country Covered with Small Timber Not Generally of Commercial Value.—Some Areas of Good Timber Which Will be Invaluable To the Settlers.
The wide belt of territory north of the Saskatchewan as far northward as Churchill and Clearwater rivers, is pre-eminently a wooded country, its resources in the way of timber being very valuable, and its forest-clothed mounds, river valleys and lake basins imparting to it a beautiful park-like appearance in marked contrast to the more monotonous scenery of the great prairie country south of the Saskatchewan. There is little doubt that the scenic beauties of the region, by attracting travellers, will, when there is railway communication, contribute materially to the development of the natural resources of this extremely promising portion of the, as yet, unexploited northwest. Included in this territory is the famous scenery of Methye portage, which for upwards of a century has excited the admiration of explorers and travellers as perhaps the most superb natural panorama of forest scenery in North America. Of the many books and diaries of men who have had the privilege of enjoying this view, there is not one which omits to pay tribute to its beauty.
Alexander Mackenzie, in the account of his trip of 1789, describes the height of land overlooking the Clearwater from Methye portage as commanding “a most extensive, romantic and ravishing prospect. From here the eye looks down on the course of the little river, by some called Swan river, by others Clearwater or Pelican river, beautifully meandering for upwards of thirty miles. The valley, which is at once refreshed and adorned by it, is about three miles in breadth and is confined by two lofty ridges of equal height, displaying a most beautiful intermixture of wood and lawn, and stretching on till the blue mist obscures the prospect. Some parts of the inclining heights are covered with stately forests, relieved by promontories of the finest verdure, where the elk and buffalo find pasture. These are contrasted by spots where fire has destroyed the woods and left a dreary void behind it. . . . . . . .”
Mackenzie, further, declares this “enchanting scenery” to be a “wonderful display of uncultivated nature.”
Most Delightful Natural Scenery.
Harmon, writing in 1800, gives us the following as his impression of this view:—“About a mile from this end of the portage is a hill, which towers majesticallyto the height of a thousand feet above the plain below, and which commands a most extensive and delightful prospect. Two lofty and extensive ridges enclose a valley about three miles in width, which stretches far as the eye can reach. Little river, which is also, by different persons, denominated Swan, Clearwater, or Pelican river, winds in a most delightful manner along this charming valley. The majestic forests, which wave upon these ridges, the delightful verdure of the intervening lawn, and the beautiful stream which wanders along through it, giving a pleasing variety to the scene, until these objects become blended with the horizon, form, on the whole, the most delightful natural scenery that I ever beheld.”
Sir John Franklin, in his account of his expeditions, writing of the view from the heights above the Clearwater at Methye portage, describes it as “the most picturesque and romantic prospect we had yet seen in this country. Two ranges of high hills run parallel to each other for several miles until the faint blue haze hides their particular characters, when they slightly change their course and are lost to the view.”
Captain (later Sir) George Back makes enthusiastic references to this beautiful view, for instance the following:—“A thousand feet below, the sylvan landscape lay spread before us, to the extent of thirty-six miles, in all the wild luxuriance of its summer clothing. Even the most jaded of the party, as he broke from the gloom of the wood on this enchanting scene, seemed to forget his weariness, and halted involuntarily with his burden
To Gaze For a Moment,
with a sort of wondering admiration, on a spectacle so novel and magnificent. . . . . . . . . . . There is something appalling in the vastness of a solitude like this.”
Sir George Simpson, in his narrative, speaks of “that noble view of Clearwater river which has been drawn with so much truth and beauty by Sir George Back.”
Bishop Tache, in the accounts of his travels, writes of the Clearwater:—“This delightful little stream, rising to the east of Methye portage has, up to the present time, and in spite of the difficulties of navigation, enjoyed almost the exclusive privilege of supplying a route to Athabaska-Mackenzie. On descending the heights of Methye portage one takes boat on this little river which, in order to keep the traveller in the midst of the beauties it presents to his view, places obstructions in the way, necessitating the portages of White Mud, the Pines, Bigstone, the Horse and the Cascades.”
The early travellers were also impressed with the fine trees in this section of the northwest, and occasionally mention extra fine groves which attracted their attention. For instance, Simpson speaks of “firs of great size” on a projecting point in Methye lake, and, referring to one of his camps in Clearwater valley, says:—“One of the pines, under shelter of which we took up our night’s lodgings, measured three yards in girth at five feet from the ground.”
As in other parts of Canada, forest fires have wrought dreadful havoc in parts of this belt, but there still remains considerable areas of good timber.
The Venerable Archdeacon McKay, in his examination before the Senate committee of 1907, stated that as to the country around Lac la Ronge there is timber all through it, wherever it has not been destroyed by fires. He explained that he put up a sawmill operated by water power at Lac la Ronge in 1906. The logs that are sawn there are the kind of timber found in that part of the country. They average seventeen logs to the thousand feet. They would be logs fourteen or fifteen feet long. The diameter would be about two feet across at the butt—good, large logs, clean timber, very much the same timber as at Prince Albert. This good timber is scattered all over the country, sometimes for miles. It depends on the nature of the country.
Asked how far this timber area would outskirt to the east, west and north, the Archdeacon replied he would say that kind of country extended all the way through right down to Lac la Ronge, and down all the way to the border of the province. Although he had not been through it, he had travelled backwards and forwards on it a good deal, visited Indian camps and so on, and it is very much the same kind of timber all through. In some places it is muskeg, and in some places heavy timber. Reindeer lake is not north of the tree limit. There are trees there, but they are small. They do not grow so large as farther south. It is a good way north of Reindeer lake before the barren grounds are reached. The Archdeacon had never been farther north than Reindeer lake.
Timber about Lac la Ronge.
Mr. Tyrrell describes the country immediately north of the Saskatchewan as a thickly wooded belt, “which contains a large quantity of timber, chiefly white spruce, trees up to eighteen inches in diameter. It is a wooded country with trees from twelve to eighteen inches in diameter, tall with clean trunks—good, nice timber. Of course, the timber does not grow as large on high, dry, sandy ridges as it grows in the valleys. Most of the timber is in good soil in the valley bottoms, but there is more or less land all over. The poplar and birch affects the higher land, and the spruce and hemlock the valleys.”
Mr. Dowling states that the sides of Green lake are “densely wooded with poplar and spruce.”
Pioneer Arboriculture.
Speaking of his visit to Ile à la Crosse lake, Mr. Dowling states in his report:—“Some ash-leaved maples had been planted in the garden of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s post, which are now from ten to fifteen feet high, quite healthy and bearing abundant seed.”
According to Mr. Dowling’s report “The timber in the rocky country bordered by the southern shore of Lac la Ronge is not large or abundant. Southward there is some improvement, and large individual spruce trees occur occasionally. The ‘lob sticks’ at Big Stone, Hudson’s Bay Company’s post, are fine examples of these. On Montreal river, small Banksian pine cover the eastern slope of the sandy plateau. No large timber, spruce or pine, is seen till near the lake, where at the southern end some groves of large spruce occur. Onthe watershed south of Montreal and Deer lakes the largest timber is seen. Here the formation of the country is evidently morainic, but southward the country slopes gently towards Saskatchewan river.”
Some Merchantable Timber Areas.
Mr. Crean reports that a considerable quantity of merchantable spruce timber is to be found in Methye lake section. There is some remarkably fine spruce along the banks of Whitefish river, and it extends in not very dense forest across to Methye lake, a distance of about eight miles.
Summarizing the results of his explorations in 1908, Mr. Crean reports.—“Although numerous prairie openings occur, this tract may be spoken of as practically covered with small timber not generally of any commercial value. The poplar is the principal growth, and, following the rule so well known throughout the western prairie country, indicates good land. Some spruce is found and large quantities of small second growth jackpine. There is some tamarack. There is, of course, no white or red pine. The poplar in some places would make fine pulpwood or barrel staves. Generally speaking it is of no commercial value. There are several small groves of good spruce along Churchill river, and at Methye portage there is a large quantity of good spruce. Along Whitefish river the timber is large and of good quality. On both the east and west side of Green lake some good timber is found but it is scattered. Generally there is ample timber for settlers’ use, but not enough to supply any lumber industry.
“Throughout this district there are many points where a large amount of water power could be developed, and there are numerous small power sites. The district might be utilized so as to create great industrial centres. The great advantage of the numerous water powers is the fact that sufficient power can be obtained at many points to supply the needs of a fair sized community. On almost every stream there are sites where small powers could be easily developed and grist mills, saw mills, lighting and pumping plants could be operated at the minimum of expense. I did not gauge or measure the possibilities of any of the water powers, but made rough estimates of a few prominent ones. On Beaver river at what is termed Grand rapids probably
Ten Thousand Horse Power Could be Developed.
Rapid river, which enters the Churchill about seven miles below Stanley, falls seventy feet in one cascade. This should afford a large amount of power. Churchill river between Ile à la Crosse lake and Knee lake, a distance of about twenty-five miles, has a fall of eighty feet. This fall is practically all in three rapids, all of which have sharp descents. At one rapid there is a cascade eight feet high. All the tributaries on the north side of the Churchill afford ample opportunity of development of power. Mudjatik river is a series of water-falls.”
Mr. Crean, in his report of 1909, says:—“Waterhen river is very rapid, and along it are several small falls and steep descents. These would be ample to develop power for a small community, but not enough for any commercialproposition. On Clearwater river occurs one of the best commercial water powers which I have seen. It could be easily and inexpensively developed.”
All reports agree in saying that there are numerous water powers susceptible of development throughout the area under review, but there is not much detailed information given on this point.
Prairie along Clearwater river.
Prairie along Clearwater river.
Mr. Crean reports that along Whitefish river there is a considerable quantity of good tamarack, but explains that although this timber would be extremely useful to any settler going into the country, he did not think there was sufficient for any commercial project. There is a considerable quantity of timber north of Waterhen lake and river. There are several scattered clumps of fine spruce in this locality which are passed on the string of small portages when one is travelling from Waterhen lake to Island river. The diameter would average perhaps twelve inches, but running up to twenty-four inches.
The Native Timber Trees.
Mr. Crean incorporates in his report the following description, with comparative values, of the most common kinds of timber found in the north:—
“(1). White Spruce (Picea canadensis(Mill) B., S. & P.)
The wood is light, soft, not very strong, straight grained, light yellow, with hardly distinguishable sapwood. This is the best tree for lumber purposes in the northern forest, and is also one of the best for pulpwood. It usually grows on higher ground than the black spruce.
“(2) Black Spruce (Picea mariana(Mill), B., S. & P.)
The wood resembles closely that of the white spruce, and as lumber or pulpwood no distinction is made between them. The wood has a slight red tingeand has paler sapwood. The black spruce grows usually in muskegs and low places and owing to the coldness of the soil does not grow fast, and is usually small, not usually over six or eight inches in diameter.
“(3). Jackpine (Pinus Banksiana, Am.)
The wood is light, soft, not very strong, close grained and dark, nearly brown in colour, with light thick sapwood. This tree is used mostly for railway ties and fuel, but is manufactured into lumber to some extent. It is not equal in colour or smoothness to the wood of the spruce. It is used for pulp, but has not so fine a fibre or colour as the spruce.
“(4). Tamarack (Larix americana, Michx.)
The wood is light brown, heavy, hard, strong, rather coarse grained and very durable. It is used for railway ties, posts and dimension timbers. It is not sawn into lumber, being more useful for other purposes, and is not used for pulp.
“(5). Poplar, Aspen or White Poplar (Populus tremuloides, Michx.)
The wood is light brown with almost white sapwood. It is smooth and easily worked. It is used for pulp and is cut into lumber for inside finish. As it is a widely extended and quick growing tree it is used largely for fuel. Next to the spruce it is the most valuable tree for pulp. It is manufactured largely into finer grades of paper by the soda process.
“(6). Balsam or Black Poplar (Populus balsamifera).
The wood is light brown, with thick sapwood. It is rather coarse and not strong. It is chiefly used for fuel, though sometimes cut into boards where other lumber is not available. It is not so valuable as the aspen poplar.
“(7). Birch (Betula papyrifera, Marsh).
The wood is light, strong, tough, hard, very close grained, light brown, tinged with red, with thick, nearly white sapwood. It is used for spools, lasts and turned work generally. Birch fibre is short and brittle, and not easily bleached, and is not suitable for pulp.”
Reindeer lake and river.
The district north of Churchill and Clearwater rivers, authorities agree, is only thinly wooded, the growth becoming smaller towards the northern limit. According to Mr. Tyrrell, the banks of Churchill river from Methye portage to the north of Reindeer river are low and thickly wooded with spruce and poplar. White spruce (Picea Alba) forms some groves of fair size in the bottom lands along Reindeer river near Churchill river, but farther north it is rarely seen except in some particularly favorable localities. One small isolated grove of white spruce was found in a high sandy island in Hatchet lake, standing out conspicuously in the midst of the surrounding forest of small black spruce. Poplar (Populus tremuloides) and Birch (Betula papyrifera) are the only remaining trees of any importance. They are chiefly found in the vicinity of Churchill river, though small scattered trees were seen on the banks of Stone river. The rocky shores and islands of Reindeer lake are generally thinly covered with a sparse growth of small, black spruce. The irregular shores of Wollaston lake are chiefly composed of thinly wooded, rocky hills. Geikie river flows between low, sparsely-wooded banks. The banks of Mudjatik river are thinly wooded withBanksian pine and spruce. As to Cree river, surrounding country is sandy and very barren supporting but a scanty growth of black spruce and Banksian pine, with very little underbrush. Some fine, large, white spruce were noticed at spots on Geikie river.
Near Lake Athabaska.
Mr. Tyrrell mentions that along the northeast shore of Lake Athabaska, “Some good white spruce, up to fourteen inches in diameter, is growing on the points.”
Mr. Tyrrell, before the Senate committee of 1907, in speaking of the forests of the country north of the Churchill, explained that far in the north there is the tract of country that has no trees on it; then a belt of country from one to two hundred miles in width, with small Banksian pine, spruce, larch, poplar and some white birch. He would not consider any of those woods valuable for timber purposes, except locally. They would serve for pulpwood, but the growth is not thick. Still over considerable areas there might, of course, be a large quantity of timber for pulpwood. In that belt the trees would average probably six inches. Occasionally you would find some a good deal larger. The poplar grows on the drier lands. It is not an indication of good land in an extremely northern country. It indicates a dry, sandy soil, but further south it indicates excellent soil.