Seedling Plants.—Two types of plants are used for forcing purposes—seedling plants and cutting plants. The former are, of course, seedlings grown from seed especially sown for the purpose of raising plants to be grown in a greenhouse. It is customary in the latitude of New York and northward to sow the seed for a forcing crop of tomatoes in the month of August. The young seedling plants, as soon as they develop the first true leaves, are then transplanted from the seed bed to small pots, preferably 3-inch pots. They are planted deeply at this time and are kept growing rapidly but not sufficiently to produce a soft, succulent growth. As soon as the 3-inch pots are filled with roots the plants are shifted to 4-inch pots, and when the plants have attained a height of 12 or 15 inches, and have developed their first blossoms, they are usually placed on the benches of the greenhouse, where they are to produce their crop. The plants are then set 15 or 18 inches apart each way in a soil prepared as previously described.
Cutting Plants.—Cuttings should be taken from strong, healthy, vigorous-growing plants in the field, and placed in the cutting bed about the last of August, where they will quickly take root. As soon as the roots have developed to a length of from one-half to 1 inch the young plants are shifted to 3 or 4 inch pots, where they are allowed to develop until the blossom buds are well formed or the blossoms have expanded, when they should be planted on the bench where they are to mature their crop, in like manner as noted for seedling plants.
Pollination.—In the field, where the tomato plants are exposed to the action of wind and to the visits of insects, no special attention is necessary in order to secure the pollination of the flowers and the setting of the fruits. Under the conditions existing in a greenhouse, however, it is necessary to artificially pollinate the flowers of the tomato; otherwise only a very small percentage of fruits will set and the object of the work will be defeated. It is therefore necessary to allow the temperature of the house to become quite high in the middle of the day on bright sunshiny days while the plants are in bloom, and to pass through the house at this time with a little stick, 18 inches or 2 feet in length, with which to strike the supporting strings or wires and thus to set the plants in motion and liberate the pollen and cause it to fertilize the flowers. A more satisfactory way, however,is to use a watch glass, 1¼ or 1-12 inches in diameter, embedded in putty, at the end of a handle composed of a light material, preferably white pine, which shall be 12 or 18 inches long. Grasp this spatula in the left hand and, with a light pine stick of equal length in the right hand, pass through the house, tapping each open flower lightly with the wand, at the same time holding the watch glass under the flowers to catch the pollen. Before removing the watch glass from this position lift it sufficiently to cause the stigma of the flower to dip into the pollen contained in the glass. By carefully going through the house from day to day during the blooming period nearly 90 per cent of the blossoms which develop can be caused to set. During dark, cloudy, stormy weather, however, a smaller percentage of plants will be fertilized than during bright, comparatively dry weather. The conditions in the greenhouse can not be modified so as to entirely overcome the adverse conditions existing on the outside, although with care much can be done in this direction.
Manuring.—It is desirable to keep plants of the tomato which are designed for forcing growing at a moderately rapid rate throughout the whole forcing period. Growth should be strong and robust at all times, yet slow enough to produce close-jointed plants which bear their fruit clusters at near intervals. There is considerable difference in varieties of tomatoes in this respect, and those which naturally bear their fruit clusters close together should be selected for forcing purposes. The manuring of the plants should, therefore, take a form which will be conducive to this strong, vigorous growth, yet not sufficiently heavy to produce plants which run to wood at the expense of fruit bearing.
Ventilating and Watering.—If careful attention is given to keeping the plants in a healthy condition by never allowing them to suffer from overwatering or from becoming too dry, and if sufficient ventilation is given without allowing draughts of cold air upon the plants, much can be done to prevent the development of mildew. If the plants are to be sprayed it should be done once a week or once in ten days, and then only in the mornings of bright days. Ordinarily, however, the atmosphere of the house should be kept dry rather than moist, as a very moist atmosphere is liable to produce a soft, succulent growth, which brings on a disease known to gardeners as œdema. This, however, can be prevented by care in keeping the house rather dry. The temperature of the house, too, should not be allowed to fluctuate through too wide a range. The night temperature for tomatoes should range between 65° and 68° F., while the day temperature should run from 70° to 80° F.
Varieties for Forcing.—The comparatively limited use of tomatoes for forcing purposes in this country has not resulted in the development of many sorts especially suited for this purpose. The Lorillard is the one American sort which is now almost exclusively confined to this use, and it is perhaps more generally cultivated in forcing houses than any other single variety.
The Tomato as a Field Crop for Canneries.—Owing to the fact that in canned tomatoes it is difficult for the average consumer tonote any deficiencies in the appearance of the original fruit, many labor under the delusion that any variety will answer for this purpose. This is a mistaken idea, as quality in canned goods is now an important factor, and it is quite as necessary that a good quality of product should be used for canning as for growing for the early or general market, although from the field side it is natural that tonnage should be a primary consideration.
In the matter of varieties, as in the case of early tomatoes, too much dependence should not be placed upon the name or upon the fact that a neighboring farmer secures good results from a given variety. There are so many variations in the character of soils, even in the same locality, which exert an influence upon the size and quality of crop that the best variety is usually one that is, in part at least, developed by the individual grower. The main point is to select varieties that produce large, smooth, solid fruits, which do not remain green or crack on the shaded side near the stem. Those which possess size as their chief characteristic are frequently of poor quality, as they are likely to possess large seed cavities and to ripen unevenly.
The conditions in some sections are such as to prevent the canners from making as much distinction between good and poor varieties as they would like. Canneries are in a measure obliged to receive all that come, unless they can control absolutely the land upon which the crop is grown. The variation in the quality of the crops of different farmers will make a difference of from 25 to 40 cans on a ton of fruit, or from 6 to 10 per cent—a very considerable item. In good seasons and with good fruit 400 cans may be regarded as the maximum number to be derived from a ton, though late in the season, and with poor varieties, as already stated, the pack from a ton is very much less. The interests of the grower and the canner are really identical in this regard. An improvement in the quality of the fruit will result in an improvement of the canned product and a consequent increase in the price of both the raw and manufactured products. Less expense is involved in growing suitable plants for cannery purposes than for other crops. This is due to the fact that earliness is not so important a factor as it is in the market garden crop.
Fertilizing and Cultivating the Soil.—In manuring and fertilizing, the character of the crop and the season of its growth should be remembered. Hence, recommendations that were made for an early crop do not apply in all cases except perhaps on the poorer classes of soils. In the first place, the plants are not put in the soil until summer, when the conditions are most favorable for the rapid change of organic forms of nitrogen into nitrates, and thus, if the soil has been manured or is naturally rich in vegetable matter, the additional application of nitrogen in immediately available forms is not so important. In the second place, the object of the growth is not early maturity, but the largest yield of mature fruit.
Setting and Cultivating the Plants.—The plants should be set from 4 to 4½ feet apart each way and cultivation should begin immediately. The first cultivation should be deep, in order to conserve the moisture, and each subsequent cultivation shallower, in order not to destroy the roots, which will fill the soil as soon as the plants reach maturity. The crop in good seasons should begin to ripen in August, and picking will continue from that time until the last of September.
Cost, Yield, and Value of Crop.—The cost of production per acre is much less for fruit for canning than in the case of early tomatoes, the chief difference being in the production of the plants. The several items may be classified as follows:
Cost of growing an acre of tomatoes for canning:
Plants$ 2.00Manures and fertilizers8.00Preparation of land, setting plants and cultivation8.00Picking and carting10.00————Total$ 28.00
The yield, as in the case of the early tomatoes, varies widely, ranging from 5 to as high as 20 tons per acre, even 30 tons per acre having been reported in exceptional cases, although the average for a series of years on average land will probably be under 8 tons. Where all conditions are carefully observed, 20-ton yields are frequently obtained, and at the prices received at the cannery, ranging from $5 to $7.50 per ton, according to the locality, the crop is a fairly good one and the net profits are quite as large as for other field crops.
A great variety of turnips is grown throughout temperate climates, some of which being coarse in texture are used as food for farm animals while other varieties are raised as table vegetables. There is considerable variation in the color, flavor, and composition of the turnip, the yellow-fleshed sorts as a group being commonly distinguished from the white by the name "Swedes" or "ruta-bagas." In the summer the early white varieties are usually preferred in spite of the fact that they are more watery, while in winter the yellow turnips are more commonly used.
The turnip requires a rich soil, and may be grown either as an early or a late crop. For an early crop, sow the seeds in drills 12 to 18 inches apart as early in the spring as the condition of the soil will permit. Two pounds of seed are required to plant an acre. After the plants appear, thin to about 3 inches. The roots will be ready for use before hot weather. For late turnips the seeds are usually sown broadcast on land from which some early crop has been removed, generally during July or August, but later in the South. Turnips are quite hardy, and the roots need not be gathered until after several frosts. Turnips may be stored in a cellar or buried in a pit outside. Before storing, the tops should be removed.—(F. B. 255, 295; U. Id. E. S. 10; Mich. E. S. 20.)
The so-called vegetable marrows are a valuable product and closely allied to the pumpkin, both as to species and habit of growth,the principal difference being that the vegetable marrows are used while quite young and tender, and may be baked and served very much the same as sweet potatoes. The vegetable marrows should receive thorough cultivation in order that a tender product may be secured, and should be gathered while the outside skin is still so tender that it may easily be broken by the finger nail. The flesh is either boiled and mashed or baked in the oven and served with butter while hot.—(F. B. 255; Oreg. E. S. B. 74.)
Quantity of Seeds or Number of Plants Required for a Row 100 Feet in Length, with Distances to Plant, Times for Planting, and Period Required for Production of Crop.
Brackets indicate that a late or second crop may be planted the same season.
Distance for plants to stand——Time of planting in open ground.Seeds or plantsRows apart.Depth ofReady for useKind of vegetable.requiredPlantsplanting.SouthNorthafter planting.for 100 feetHorseHandapartof row.cultivation.cultivation.in rows.Artichoke, Globe½ ounce3 to 4 ft.2 to 3 ft.2 to 3 ft.1 to 2 in.SpringEarly spring15 months.Artichoke, Jerusalem2 qts. tubers3 to 4 ft.1 to 2 ft.1 to 2 ft.2 to 3 in.SpringEarly spring6 to 8 months.Asparagus, seed1 ounce30 to 36 in.1 to 2 ft.3 to 5 in.1 to 2 in.Autumn or early springEarly spring3 to 4 years.Asparagus, plants60 to 80 plants3 to 5 ft.12 to 24 in.15 to 20 in.3 to 5 in.Autumn or early springEarly spring1 to 3 years.Beans, bush1 pint30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.5 or 8 to ft.½ to 2 in.February to April.[August to September.]April to July40 to 65 days.Beans, pole½ pint3 to 4 ft.3 to 4 ft.3 to 4 ft.1 to 2 in.Late springMay and June50 to 80 days.Beets2 ounces24 to 36 in.12 to 18 in.5 or 6 to ft.1 to 2 in.February to April.[August to September.]April to August60 to 80 days.Brussels sprouts¼ ounce30 to 36 in.24 to 30 in.16 to 24 in.½ in.January to JulyMay and June90 to 120 days.Cabbage, early¼ ounce30 to 36 in.24 to 30 in.12 to 18 in.½ in.October to DecemberMarch and April.(Start in hotbedduring February)90 to 130 days.Cabbage, late¼ ounce30 to 40 in.24 to 36 in.16 to 24 in.½ in.June and JulyMay and June90 to 120 days.Cardoon½ ounce3 ft.2 ft.12 to 18 in.1 to 2 in.Early springApril and May5 to 6 months.Carrot1 ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.6 or 7 to ft.½ in.March and April.[September]April to June75 to 110 days.Cauliflower¼ ounce30 to 36 in.24 to 30 in.14 to 18 in.½ in.January and February.April to June.[June](Start in hotbedduring Februaryor March)100 to 130 days.Celeriac¼ ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.4 or 5 to ft.½ in.Late springMay and June.(Start in coldframe during April)100 to 150 days.Celery¼ ounce3 to 6 ft.18 to 36 in.4 to 8 in.½ in.August to OctoberMay and June. (Startin hotbed or coldframe during Marchor April)120 to 150 days.Chervil1 ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.3 or 4 to ft.1 in.AutumnAutumn1 year.Chicory¼ ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.4 or 5 to ft.½ in.March and AprilMay and June5 to 6 months.Citron1 ounce8 to 10 ft.8 to 10 ft.8 to 10 ft.1 to 2 in.March and AprilMay and June100 to 130 days.Collards¼ ounce30 to 36 in.24 to 30 in.14 to 18 in.½ in.May and JuneLate spring100 to 120 days.Corn salad2 ounces30 in.12 to 18 in.5 or 6 to ft.½ to 1 in.January and February.[September and October]March to September60 days.Corn, sweet¼ pint36 to 42 in.30 to 36 in.30 to 36 in.1 to 2 in.February to AprilMay to July60 to 100 days.Cress, upland½ ounce30 in.12 to 18 in.4 or 5 to ft.½ to 1 in.January and February.March to May(Autumn)[September]30 to 40 days.Cress, water½ ounceBroadcastOn surfaceEarly springApril to September60 to 70 days.Cucumber½ ounce4 to 6 ft.4 to 6 ft.4 to 6 ft.1 to 2 in.February and March.[September]April to July60 to 80 days.Dandelion¼ ounce30 in.18 to 24 in.8 to 12 in.½ in.Early spring or autumnsEarly spring6 to 12 months.Eggplant¼ ounce30 to 36 in.24 to 30 in.18 to 24 in.½ to 1 in.February to AprilApril and May. (Startin hotbed during100 to 140 days.March)Endive1 ounce30 in.18 in.8 to 12 in.½ to 1 in.February to AprilApril [July]90 to 180 days.Horse-radish70 roots30 to 40 in.24 to 30 in.14 to 20 in.3 to 4 in.Early springEarly spring1 to 2 yearsKale or borecole¼ ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.18 to 24 in.½ in.October to FebruaryAugust and September.[March and April]90 to 120 days.Kohl-rabi¼ ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.4 to 8 in.½ in.September to MarchMarch to May60 to 80 days.Leek½ ounce30 to 36 in.14 to 20 in.4 to 8 in1 in.May to SeptemberMarch to May60 to 80 days.Lettuce½ ounce30 in12 to 18 in.4 to 6 in½ in.September to MarchMarch to September120 to 180 days.Melon, muskmelon½ ounce6 to 8 ft.6 to 8 ft.Hills 6 ft.1 to 2 in.February to AprilApril to June (Startearly plants inhotbed during March)120 to 150 days.Melon, watermelon1 ounce8 to 12 ft.8 to 12 ft.Hills 10 ft.1 to 2 in.March to MayMay and June100 to 120 days.Mustard¼ ounce30 to 36 in.12 to 18 in.4 or 5 to ft.¼ in.Autumn or early springMarch to May.60 to 90 days.[September]New Zealand spinach1 ounce36 in.24 to 36 in.12 to 18 in.1 to 2 in.Early SpringEarly spring60 to 100 days.Okra, or gumbo2 ounces4 to 5 ft.3 to 4 ft.24 to 30 in.1 to 2 in.February to AprilMay and June80 to 140 days.Onion, seed1 ounce24 to 36 in.12 to 18 in.4 or 5 to ft.½ to 1 in.October to MarchApril and May130 to 150 days.Onion, sets1 qt. of sets.24 to 36 in.12 to 18 in.4 or 5 to ft.1 to 2 in.Early springAutumn and Februaryto May90 to 120 days.Parsley¼ ounce24 to 36 in.12 to 18 in.3 to 6 in.1/8 in.September to MaySeptember and early90 to 120 days.springParsnip½ ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.5 or 6 to ft.½ to 1 in.April and May125 to 160 days.Peas1 to 2 pints.3 to 4 ft.30 to 36 in.15 to ft.2 to 3 in.September to AprilMarch to June40 to 80 days.Pepper½ ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.15 to 18 in.½ in.Early springMay and June (Startearly plants inhotbed during March)100 to 140 days.Physalis½ ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.18 to 24 in.½ in.March to MayMay and June130 to 160 days.Potato, Irish5 lbs. (or 9bu. per acre)30 to 36 in.24 to 36 in.14 to 18 in.4 in.January to AprilMarch to June80 to 140 days.Potato, sweet3 lbs. (or 75slips)3 to 5 ft.3 to 5 ft.14 in.3 in.April and MayMay and June (Startplants in hotbedduring April)140 to 160 days.Pumpkin½ ounce8 to 12 ft.8 to 12 ft.Hills 8 to 121 to 2 in.April and MayMay to July100 to 140 days.ft.springRadish1 ounce24 to 36 in.12 to 18 in.8 to 12 to ft½ to 1 in.September to AprilMarch to September20 to 40 days.Rhubarb, seed½ ounce36 in.30 to 36 in.6 to 8 in.½ to 1 in.Early Spring2 to 4 years.Rhubarb, plants33 plants3 to 5 ft.3 to 5 ft.3 ft.2 to 3 in.Autumn or early1 to 3 years.springRuta-baga¼ ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.6 to 8 in.½ to 1 in.August and SeptemberMay and June60 to 80 days.Salsify1 ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.2 to 4 in.½ to 1 in.Early spring120 to 180 days.Spinach1 ounce30 to 36 in.12 to 18 in.7 or 8 to ft.1 to 2 in.September to FebruarySeptember or veryearly spring30 to 60 days.Squash, bush½ ounce3 to 4 ft.3 to 4 ft.Hills 3 to 41 to 2 in.SpringApril to June60 to 80 days.ft.Squash, late½ ounce7 to 10 ft.7 to 10 ft.Hills 7 to 91 to 2 in.SpringApril to June120 to 180 days.ft.Tomato½ ounce3 to 5 ft.3 to 4 ft.3 ft.½ to 1 in.December to MarchMay and June (Startearly plants inhotbed during100 to 140 days.February and March)Turnip½ ounce24 to 36 in18 to 24 in6 or 7 to ft¼ to ½ inAugust to OctoberApril. [July]60 to 80 days.Vegetable marrow½ ounce8 to 12 ft.8 to 12 ft.Hills 8 to1 to 2 in.SpringApril to June110 to 140 days.9 ft.
Distance for plants to stand——Time of planting in open ground.Seeds or plantsRows apart.Depth ofReady for useKind of vegetable.requiredPlantsplanting.SouthNorthafter planting.for 100 feetHorseHandapartof row.cultivation.cultivation.in rows.Artichoke, Globe½ ounce3 to 4 ft.2 to 3 ft.2 to 3 ft.1 to 2 in.SpringEarly spring15 months.Artichoke, Jerusalem2 qts. tubers3 to 4 ft.1 to 2 ft.1 to 2 ft.2 to 3 in.SpringEarly spring6 to 8 months.Asparagus, seed1 ounce30 to 36 in.1 to 2 ft.3 to 5 in.1 to 2 in.Autumn or early springEarly spring3 to 4 years.Asparagus, plants60 to 80 plants3 to 5 ft.12 to 24 in.15 to 20 in.3 to 5 in.Autumn or early springEarly spring1 to 3 years.Beans, bush1 pint30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.5 or 8 to ft.½ to 2 in.February to April.[August to September.]April to July40 to 65 days.Beans, pole½ pint3 to 4 ft.3 to 4 ft.3 to 4 ft.1 to 2 in.Late springMay and June50 to 80 days.Beets2 ounces24 to 36 in.12 to 18 in.5 or 6 to ft.1 to 2 in.February to April.[August to September.]April to August60 to 80 days.Brussels sprouts¼ ounce30 to 36 in.24 to 30 in.16 to 24 in.½ in.January to JulyMay and June90 to 120 days.Cabbage, early¼ ounce30 to 36 in.24 to 30 in.12 to 18 in.½ in.October to DecemberMarch and April.(Start in hotbedduring February)90 to 130 days.Cabbage, late¼ ounce30 to 40 in.24 to 36 in.16 to 24 in.½ in.June and JulyMay and June90 to 120 days.Cardoon½ ounce3 ft.2 ft.12 to 18 in.1 to 2 in.Early springApril and May5 to 6 months.Carrot1 ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.6 or 7 to ft.½ in.March and April.[September]April to June75 to 110 days.Cauliflower¼ ounce30 to 36 in.24 to 30 in.14 to 18 in.½ in.January and February.April to June.[June](Start in hotbedduring Februaryor March)100 to 130 days.Celeriac¼ ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.4 or 5 to ft.½ in.Late springMay and June.(Start in coldframe during April)100 to 150 days.Celery¼ ounce3 to 6 ft.18 to 36 in.4 to 8 in.½ in.August to OctoberMay and June. (Startin hotbed or coldframe during Marchor April)120 to 150 days.Chervil1 ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.3 or 4 to ft.1 in.AutumnAutumn1 year.Chicory¼ ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.4 or 5 to ft.½ in.March and AprilMay and June5 to 6 months.Citron1 ounce8 to 10 ft.8 to 10 ft.8 to 10 ft.1 to 2 in.March and AprilMay and June100 to 130 days.Collards¼ ounce30 to 36 in.24 to 30 in.14 to 18 in.½ in.May and JuneLate spring100 to 120 days.Corn salad2 ounces30 in.12 to 18 in.5 or 6 to ft.½ to 1 in.January and February.[September and October]March to September60 days.Corn, sweet¼ pint36 to 42 in.30 to 36 in.30 to 36 in.1 to 2 in.February to AprilMay to July60 to 100 days.Cress, upland½ ounce30 in.12 to 18 in.4 or 5 to ft.½ to 1 in.January and February.March to May(Autumn)[September]30 to 40 days.Cress, water½ ounceBroadcastOn surfaceEarly springApril to September60 to 70 days.Cucumber½ ounce4 to 6 ft.4 to 6 ft.4 to 6 ft.1 to 2 in.February and March.[September]April to July60 to 80 days.Dandelion¼ ounce30 in.18 to 24 in.8 to 12 in.½ in.Early spring or autumnsEarly spring6 to 12 months.Eggplant¼ ounce30 to 36 in.24 to 30 in.18 to 24 in.½ to 1 in.February to AprilApril and May. (Startin hotbed during100 to 140 days.March)Endive1 ounce30 in.18 in.8 to 12 in.½ to 1 in.February to AprilApril [July]90 to 180 days.Horse-radish70 roots30 to 40 in.24 to 30 in.14 to 20 in.3 to 4 in.Early springEarly spring1 to 2 yearsKale or borecole¼ ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.18 to 24 in.½ in.October to FebruaryAugust and September.[March and April]90 to 120 days.Kohl-rabi¼ ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.4 to 8 in.½ in.September to MarchMarch to May60 to 80 days.Leek½ ounce30 to 36 in.14 to 20 in.4 to 8 in1 in.May to SeptemberMarch to May60 to 80 days.Lettuce½ ounce30 in12 to 18 in.4 to 6 in½ in.September to MarchMarch to September120 to 180 days.Melon, muskmelon½ ounce6 to 8 ft.6 to 8 ft.Hills 6 ft.1 to 2 in.February to AprilApril to June (Startearly plants inhotbed during March)120 to 150 days.Melon, watermelon1 ounce8 to 12 ft.8 to 12 ft.Hills 10 ft.1 to 2 in.March to MayMay and June100 to 120 days.Mustard¼ ounce30 to 36 in.12 to 18 in.4 or 5 to ft.¼ in.Autumn or early springMarch to May.60 to 90 days.[September]New Zealand spinach1 ounce36 in.24 to 36 in.12 to 18 in.1 to 2 in.Early SpringEarly spring60 to 100 days.Okra, or gumbo2 ounces4 to 5 ft.3 to 4 ft.24 to 30 in.1 to 2 in.February to AprilMay and June80 to 140 days.Onion, seed1 ounce24 to 36 in.12 to 18 in.4 or 5 to ft.½ to 1 in.October to MarchApril and May130 to 150 days.Onion, sets1 qt. of sets.24 to 36 in.12 to 18 in.4 or 5 to ft.1 to 2 in.Early springAutumn and Februaryto May90 to 120 days.Parsley¼ ounce24 to 36 in.12 to 18 in.3 to 6 in.1/8 in.September to MaySeptember and early90 to 120 days.springParsnip½ ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.5 or 6 to ft.½ to 1 in.April and May125 to 160 days.Peas1 to 2 pints.3 to 4 ft.30 to 36 in.15 to ft.2 to 3 in.September to AprilMarch to June40 to 80 days.Pepper½ ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.15 to 18 in.½ in.Early springMay and June (Startearly plants inhotbed during March)100 to 140 days.Physalis½ ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.18 to 24 in.½ in.March to MayMay and June130 to 160 days.Potato, Irish5 lbs. (or 9bu. per acre)30 to 36 in.24 to 36 in.14 to 18 in.4 in.January to AprilMarch to June80 to 140 days.Potato, sweet3 lbs. (or 75slips)3 to 5 ft.3 to 5 ft.14 in.3 in.April and MayMay and June (Startplants in hotbedduring April)140 to 160 days.Pumpkin½ ounce8 to 12 ft.8 to 12 ft.Hills 8 to 121 to 2 in.April and MayMay to July100 to 140 days.ft.springRadish1 ounce24 to 36 in.12 to 18 in.8 to 12 to ft½ to 1 in.September to AprilMarch to September20 to 40 days.Rhubarb, seed½ ounce36 in.30 to 36 in.6 to 8 in.½ to 1 in.Early Spring2 to 4 years.Rhubarb, plants33 plants3 to 5 ft.3 to 5 ft.3 ft.2 to 3 in.Autumn or early1 to 3 years.springRuta-baga¼ ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.6 to 8 in.½ to 1 in.August and SeptemberMay and June60 to 80 days.Salsify1 ounce30 to 36 in.18 to 24 in.2 to 4 in.½ to 1 in.Early spring120 to 180 days.Spinach1 ounce30 to 36 in.12 to 18 in.7 or 8 to ft.1 to 2 in.September to FebruarySeptember or veryearly spring30 to 60 days.Squash, bush½ ounce3 to 4 ft.3 to 4 ft.Hills 3 to 41 to 2 in.SpringApril to June60 to 80 days.ft.Squash, late½ ounce7 to 10 ft.7 to 10 ft.Hills 7 to 91 to 2 in.SpringApril to June120 to 180 days.ft.Tomato½ ounce3 to 5 ft.3 to 4 ft.3 ft.½ to 1 in.December to MarchMay and June (Startearly plants inhotbed during100 to 140 days.February and March)Turnip½ ounce24 to 36 in18 to 24 in6 or 7 to ft¼ to ½ inAugust to OctoberApril. [July]60 to 80 days.Vegetable marrow½ ounce8 to 12 ft.8 to 12 ft.Hills 8 to1 to 2 in.SpringApril to June110 to 140 days.9 ft.
Average Composition of Succulent Roots.
Edible portionCarbohydratesKind of vegetable.RefuseWaterProteinFatSugarGradeAshFuelvalueper poundPer ct.Per ct.Per ct.Per ct.Per ct.Per ct.Per ct.CaloriesBeets, fresh7.087.51.60.18.80.91.1215Beets, cooked....88.62.3.17.4....1.6185Celeriac20.084.11.5.411.81.4.8285Carrots, fresh20.088.21.1.48.21.11.0210Carrots, desiccated....3.57.7.680.3....4.91,790Parsnips20.083.01.6.511.02.51.4300Salsify "Oyster plant"25.085.44.3.36.82.01.2250Black salsify20.080.41.0.517.12.31.0390Radishes....91.81.3.15.1.7.1135Turnips, white10.089.61.3.26.81.3.8160Turnips, yellow (ruta-bagas)10.088.91.3.27.31.21.1185Kohl-rabi20.091.12.0.14.21.31.3145Onions30.087.61.6.39.1.8.6225Garlic....64.76.8.127.9.81.5650Potatoes20.078.32.2.118.0.41.0375
(Authorities consulted in the Chapter on Vegetable Garden.—Colo. Ag. Col. E. S.; U. Ill. A. E. S.; U. Idaho A. E.; Purdue U. A. E. S.; N. H. Col. A. E. S.; Mich. St. A. E. S.; Mass. Ag. Col. E. S.; Ohio Ag. E. S.; S. C. A. E. S.; Okla. A. E. S.; Texas A. E. S.; Va. A. E. S.; W. Va. U. A. E. S.; Cornell U. A. E. S.; R. I. Col. of Ag. and Mech. Arts E. S.; N. C. Col. of Ag. and Mech. Arts; N. Y. A. E. S.; U. Tenn. A. E. S.; Pa. St. Col. A. E. S.; Mich. St. Ag. Col. A. E. S.; S. Dak. A. E. S.; U. Wyo. E. S.; B. P. I.; Kans. St. Ag. Col. E. S.; N. J. A. E. S.; Tuskegee Normal & Industrial Inst. E. S.; S. S. E. S. Clemson Ag. Col.; N. Mex. Col. of Ag. and Mech. Arts E. S.; Fla. A. E. S.; Iowa Ag. Col. E. S.; U. Minn. A. E. S.; U. Nevada A. E. S.; N. Dak. E. S.; Oreg. A. E. S.; Del. Col. A. E. S.; Ark. Ag. Col. E. S.; U. Nebr. A. E. S.; Ga. E. S.; Md. A. E. S.; Miss. Ag. E. S. The entire article on Vegetable Garden was taken bodily from the best portions of the above bulletins, etc.)
THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS
GARDEN CITY, N. Y.