19. Marmots from Chukch Land
20.Stegocephalus KessleriStuxb
21.Sabinea septemcarinata, Sabine
22.Acanthostephia Malmgreni, Goës
23.Ophioglypha nodosa, Lütken
24. Noah Elisej
25. Beetles from Pitlekaj
26. Phosphorescent Crustacea from Mussel Bay
27. Reitinacka
28. Dog Fish from the Chukch Peninsula (Dallia delicatissima, Smith)
29. Crab from the Sea North of Behring's Straits (Chionoecetes opilio, Kröyer)
30. Tree from Pitlekaj (Salix Arctica, Pallas)
31. Typical Chukch Faces
32. ,, ,,
33. Plan of a Chukch Grave
34. Tent Frame at Pitlekaj
35. Chukch Oar
36. Dog Shoe
37. Chukch Face Tattooing
38. Chukch Children
39. Snow Shoes
40. An Aino Man skating after a Reindeer
41. Hunting Cup and Snow scraper
42. Chukch Weapons and Hunting Implements
43. Chukch Bow and Quiver
44. Chukch Arrows
45. Stone Hammers and Anvil for Crushing Bones
46. Chukch Implements
47. Fire Drill
48. Ice Mattocks
49. Human Figures
50. Musical Instruments
51. Drawings made by the Chukches—
52. Chukch Buckles and Hooks of Ivory
53. Chukch Bone Carvings
54. Chukch Doll
55. Chukch Bone Carvings—
56. Chukch Bone Carvings of Birds
57. Map of the World, said to be of the Tenth Century
58. Map of the World showing Asia to be continuous with Africa
59. Map of the World after Fra Mauro, from the middle of the Fifteenth Century
60. Map of Asia from an Atlas published by the Russian Academy of Sciences in 1737
61. Peter Feodorovitsch Anjou
62. Ferdinand von Wrangel
63. Seal from the Behring Sea,Histriophoca fasciata, Zimm
64.Draba Alpina, L, from St. Lawrence Bay
65. Hunting Implements at Port Clarence
66. Eskimo Family at Port Clarence
67. Eskimo from Port Clarence
68. Eskimo from Port Clarence
69. Eskimo Fishing Implements, &c.
70. Eskimo Bone Carvings &c.
71. Eskimo Grave
72. Animal Figure from an Eskimo Grave
73. Ethnographical Objects from Port Clarence
74. Shell from Behring's Straits,Fusus deformis, Reeve
75. Diagram showing the temperature and depth of the water at Behring's Straits between Port Clarence and Senjavin Sound, by G. Bove
76. Konyam Bay
77. Tattooing Patterns from St. Lawrence Island
78. Tattooed Woman from St. Lawrence Island
79. The Colony on Behring Island
80. The Colony on Copper Island
81. Natives of Behring Island
82. Skeleton of Rhytina, shown at theVegaExhibition at the Royal Palace, Stockholm
83. Original Drawings of the Rhytina
84. Reconstructed Form of the Sea-Cow
85. Sea Bears, Male, Female, and Young
86. "Seal Rookery" on St. Paul's Island, one of the Pribylov Islands
87. Slaughter of Sea-Bears
88. Sea-Bears on their way to "the Rookeries"
89. Alga from the shore of Behring Island,Thalassiophyllum Clathrus, Post. and Rupr.
90. Fusugama
91. The steamerA.E. Nordenskiöldstranded on the East Coast of Yezo
92. Kawamura Sumiyashi, Japanese Minister of Marine
93. The First Medal which was struck as a Memorial of the Voyage of theVega
94. The First Medal which was struck as a Memorial of the Voyage of theVega
95. Stone Lantern and Stone Monument in a Japanese Temple Court
96. Japanese House in Tokio
97. Japanese Lady at her Toilet
98. A Jinrikisha
99. Japanese Bedroom
100. Tobacco-Smokers, Japanese Drawing
101. Ito-Keske, a Japanese Editor of Thunberg's Writings
102. Monument to Thunberg and Kaempfer at Nagasaki
103. Japanese Kago
104. Japanese Wrestlers
105. Japanese Bridge, after a Japanese drawing
106. Japanese Mountain Landscape, drawn by Prof. P.D. Holm
107. Inn at Kusatsu, drawn by R. Haglund
108. Bath at Kusatsu, Japanese drawing, drawn by O. Sörling
109. Japanese Landscape, drawn by Prof. P.D. Holm
110. Burden-bearers on a Japanese Road, Japanese drawing, drawn by O. Sörling
111. Japanese Shop, drawn by V. Andrén
112. Japanese Court Dress, drawn by ditto
113. Noble in Antique Dress, drawn by ditto
114. Buddhist Priest, drawn by ditto
115. A Samurai, drawn by ditto
116. Gate across the Road to a Shinto Temple, drawn by Prof. P.D. Holm
117. Buddhist Temple at Kobe, drawn by ditto
118. Rio-San's Seal
119. Burying-Place at Kioto, drawn by Prof. P.D. Holm
120. Entrance to Nagasaki, drawn by R. Haglund
121. Fossil Plants from Mogi—1, 2, Beech Leaves (Fagus ferruginea, Ait., var.pliocena, Nath.), drawn by M. Westergren
122. Fossil Plant from Mogi—3, Maple Leaf (Acer Mono, Max., var.pliocena, Nath.)
123. Fossil Plant from Mogi—Leaf ofZelkova Keakii, Sieb., var.pliocena, Nath., drawn by M. Westergren
124. Gem Diggings at Ratnapoora, drawn by R. Haglund
125. Statues in a Temple in Ceylon, drawn by ditto
126. A Country Place in Ceylon, drawn by V. Andrén
127. Highland View from the Interior of Ceylon, drawn by R. Haglund
128. The Scientific Men of theVega
129. The Officers of theVega
130. The Crew of theVega, drawn by R. Widing
131. The Entrance of theVegainto Stockholm on the 24th April, 1880, drawn by R. Haglund
132. TheVegamoored off the Royal Palace, Stockholm, drawn by ditto
ERRATA
[ Transcriber's note: these have been applied to the text ]
Page 22, under wood-cut,
for "a
. Of wood
b
. Of stone,"
read "a
. Wooden cup to place under the lamp
b
. Lamp of burned clay."
Page 41, line 6 from foot,
for
"beginning of May"
read
"middle of June."
Page 41, under wood-cut,
for
"May,"
read
"June."
Page 44, line 19
for
"mountain,"
read
"Arctic."
Page 54, last line
for
"contracteta"
read
"contracta."
Page 63, last line
for
"Natural size,"
read
"Half the natural size."
Page 98, lines 9 and 12 from foot,
for
"moccassin"
read
"moccasin."
Page 100, line 2 from foot,
for
"moccassin"
read
"moccasin."
Page 227, line 11 from foot,
for
"American,"
read
"Asiatic."
THE VOYAGE OF THE VEGA
ROUND
ASIA AND EUROPE,
VOL II
Hope of release at the new year—Bove's excursion to the open water—Mild weather and renewed severe cold—Mercury frozen—Popular lectures—Brusewitz's excursion to Najtskaj—Another despatch of letters home—The natives' accounts of the state of the ice on the coast of Chukch Land—The Chukches carry on traffic between Arctic America and Siberia—Excursions in the neighbourhood of winter quarters—The weather during spring—The melting of the snow—The aurora—The arrival of the migratory birds—The animal world of Chukch Land—Noah Elisej's relief expedition—A remarkable fish—The country clear of snow—Release—The North-East Passage achieved.
The new year came in with a faint hope of release. For since the north and north-west winds that had prevailed almost constantly towards the close of December had given place to winds from the east and south, considerable "clearings" were again formed out at sea, and the Chukches again began to say thatthe ice would drift away, so that the vessel would be able to continue her voyage; a prediction which they always ended with a declaration, expressed both by words and gestures, that they would then bitterly lament, which they would also have had sufficient reason to do, considering the very friendly way in which they were treated by all on board theVega, both officers and men.
On New Year's Day, in order to see the state of the ice farther out to sea, Lieut Bove, accompanied by the hunter Johnsen, again made an excursion to the open water. Of this he gave the following account:—
"I left the vessel on the forenoon of 1st January and reached the open water after four hours' steady walking. The deep loose snow made walking very fatiguing, and three rows oftorossesalso contributed to this, mainly in consequence of the often snow-covered cracks, which crossed the ice-sheet in their neighbourhood. One of thetorosseswas ten metres high. The size of the blocks of ice, which were here heaped on each other, showed how powerful the forces were which had caused the formation of thetorosses. These ice ramparts now afford a much needed protection to theVega'swinter haven. About halfway between the open water and the vessel the way was crossed by cracks running from east to west, and clearly indicating that the opening in the ice would have extended to the distance of a kilometre from the vessel, if the violent storm in December had lasted twelve hours longer. TheVegawould thereby have been in great danger. The edge of the ice towards the open water was evenly cut, as with an immense knife, and was so strong that one could walk along it as on a rock. Even from the top of a five-metre-high ice-rampart no boundary of the open water could be seen to the north-east or north. Partly from this, partly from the extension of the water-sky in this direction, I draw the conclusion that the breadth of the open water was at least thirty-five kilometres. The "clearing" was bounded on the east by an ice-rampart running north, which at a distance of nine or ten kilometres appeared to bend to the east. Possibly farther to the east beyond this ice-rampart there was another open water basin. The depth at the edge of the ice was twenty-one metres, the temperature of the water 2° C. The water ran at a considerable speed right out from thecoast (i.e.from S.S.E.) As it ran here nearly in a straight line, the current may have been a tidal one. The open water swarmed with seals, according to Johnsen both bearded and rough. Neither Polar bears, walrusses, nor birds were seen."
Lieut. Bove's report confirmed me in my supposition that the open water, as towards the end of January 1873 at Mussel Bay, might possibly extend as far as our anchorage and open for us the way to Behring's Straits, in which case we could not refrain from continuing our voyage, however unpleasant and dangerous it might be at this season of the year. The Chukches also declared repeatedly that the open water in January would continue for a considerable time, and in expectation of this got their simple fishing implements ready. But both they and we were disappointed in our expectation. TheVega'sice-fetters remained undisturbed, and the blue border at the horizon grew less and again disappeared. This caused so great a want of food, and above all of train oil, among the natives, that all the inhabitants of Pitlekaj, the village nearest to us, were compelled to remove to the eastward, notwithstanding that in order to mitigate the scarcity a considerable quantity of food was served out daily at the vessel.
It appeals, however, as if an actual experience from the preceding year had been the ground of the Chukches' weather prediction. For on the 6th February a south-east wind began to blow, and the severe cold at once ceased. The temperature rose for a few hours to and even above the freezing-point. A water-sky was again formed along the horizon of the ice from north-east to north, and from the heights at the coast there was seen an extensive opening in the ice-fields, which a little east of Irgunnuk nearly reached the shore. Some kilometres farther east even the shore itself was free of ice, and from the hills our sailors thought they saw a heavy sea in the blue water border which bounded the circle of vision. If this was not an illusion,caused by the unequal heating and oscillatory motion of the lower stratum of the atmosphere, the open water may have been of great extent. Perhaps the statement of the natives was correct, that it extended as far as Behring's Straits. But we could not now place complete reliance on their statements, since we had rewarded with extra treating some predictions, relating to ice and weather, that were favourable to us. Even between the vessel's anchorage and the land various cracks had been formed, through which the sea water had forced its way under the snow, and in which some of us got cold feet or leg baths during our walks to and from the land.
THE ENCAMPMENT PITLEKAJ ABANDONED BY ITS INHABITANTS ON THE 18TH FEBRUARY, 1879.THE ENCAMPMENT PITLEKAJ ABANDONED BY ITS INHABITANTS ON THE 18TH FEBRUARY, 1879.(After a drawing by O. Nordquist.)
The Chukches at Irgunnuk were now successful in killing a Polar bear and seventy seals, of which some were ostentatiously set up in rows, along with frozen slices of blubber, along the outer walls of the tents, and others were laid down in theblubber cellars, which were soon filled to overflowing. At Yinretlen, the encampment nearer us, the hunters on the other hand had obtained only eight seals. Gladness and want of care for the morrow at all events prevailed here also, and our skin-clad friends availed themselves of the opportunity to exhibit a self-satisfied disdain of the simple provisions from theVegawhich the day before they had begged for with gestures so pitiful, and on which they must, in a day or two, again depend. The children, who had fallen off during recent weeks, if not in comparison with European children, at least with well-fed Chukch ones, began speedily to regain their former condition, and likewise the older people. Begging ceased for some days, but the vessel's deck still formed a favourite rendezvous for crowds of men, women, and children. Many passed here the greater part of the day, cheerful and gay in a temperature of -40° C, gossiped, helped a little, but always only a little, at the work on board and so on. The mild weather, the prospect of our getting free, and of an abundant fishing for the Chukches, however, soon ceased. The temperature again sank below the freezing-point, that isof mercury, and the sea froze so far out from the shore that the Chukches could no longer carry on any fishing. Instead we saw them one morning come marching, like prisoners on an Egyptian or Assyrian monument, in goose-march over the ice toward the vessel, each with a burden on his shoulder, of whose true nature, while they were at a distance, we endeavoured in vain to form a guess. It was pieces of ice, not particularly large, which they, self-satisfied, cheerful and happy at their new bit, handed over to the cook to get from him in return some of thekauka(food) they some days before had despised.
The first time the temperature of the air sank under the freezing-point of mercury, was in January. It now became necessary to use instead of the mercury the spirit thermometers, which in expectation of the severe cold had been long ago hungup in the thermometer case. When mercury freezes in a common thermometer, it contracts so much that the column of mercury suddenly sinks in the tube; or if it is short, goes wholly into the ball. The position of the column is therefore no measure of the actual degree of cold when the freezing takes place. The reading of -89°, or even of -150°, which at a time when it was not yet known that mercury could at a low temperature assume the solid form, was made on a mercurial thermometer in the north of Sweden,[258]and which at the time occasioned various discussions and doubts as to the trustworthiness of the observer, was certainly quite correct, and may be repeated at any time by cooling mercury under its freezing-point in a thermometer of sufficient length divided into degrees under 0°. The freezing of mercury[259]takes place from below upwards, the frozen metal as being heavier sinking down in that portion which is still fluid. If when it is half frozen the fluid be poured away from the frozen portion, we obtain groups of crystals, composed of small octohedrons, grouped together by the edges of the cube. None of our mercurial thermometers suffered any damage, nor was there any alteration of the position of the freezing-point in them from the mercury having frozen in them and again become fluid.
During the severe cold the ice naturally became thicker and thicker, and by the continual northerly winds still highertorosseswere heaped up round the vessel, and larger and larger snow masses were collected between it and the land, and on the heights along the coast. All hopes or fears of an early release were again given up, and a perceptible dullness began to make itself felt after the bustle and festrvities of the Christmas holidays. Instead there was now arranged a series of popular lectures which were held in the lower deck, and treated of the history of the North-East Passage, the first circumnavigations of the globe, the Austrian-Hungarian Expedition, the changes of the earth's surface, the origin of man, the importance of the leaf to the plants, &c. It became both for the officers and scientific men and the crew a little interruption to the monotony of the Arctic winter life, and the lecturer could always be certain of finding his little auditory all present and highly interested. Some slight attempts at musical evening entertainments were also made, but these failed for want of musical instruments and musical gifts among theVegamen. We had among us no suitable director of theatrical representations after the English-Arctic pattern, and even if we had had, I fear that the director would have found it very difficult to gather together the dramatic talents requisite for his entertainment.
On the 17th February Lieutenant Brusewitz made an excursion to Najtskaj, of which he gives the following account:—
"I and Notti left the vessel in the afternoon, and after two hours came to Rirajtinop, Notti's home, where we passed the night, together with his three younger brothers and an invalid sister, who all lived in the same tent-chamber. Immediately after our arrival one of the brothers began to get the dog-harness and sleigh ready for the following day's journey, while the rest of us went into the interior of the tent, where the invalid sister lay with her clothes off, but wrapt in reindeer skins. She tookcharge of two train-oil lumps over which hung two cooking vessels, one formerly a preserve tin, and the other a bucket of tinned iron. One of the brothers came in with a tray, on which was placed a piece of seal blubber, together with frozen vegetables, principally willow leaves. The blubber was cut into small square pieces about the size of the thumb, after which one of the brothers gave the sister a large portion both of the blubber and vegetables. The food was thus served out to the others. Every piece of blubber was carefully imbedded in vegetable before it was eaten. When the vegetables were
Notti and his wife Aitanga.Notti and his wife Aitanga. (after photographs by L. Palander.)
finished there was still some blubber, which was given to the dogs that lay in the outer tent. After this the boiled spare-rib of a seal were partaken of, and finally a sort of soup, probably made from seal's blood. The sister had a first and special helping of these dishes. I also got an offer of every dish, and it did not appear to cause any offence that I did not accept the offer. After the close of the meal the cooking vessels were set down, the "pesks" taken off, and some reindeer skins taken down from the roof and spread out. The older brothers lighted their pipes, and the younger lay down to sleep. I was shown to one of the side places in the tent, evidently Notti's own. One of thelamps was extinguished, after which all slept. During the night the girl complained several times, when one of the brothers always rose and attended to her. At six in the morning I wakened the party and reminded them of our journey. All rose immediately. Dressing proceeded slowly, because much attention was given to the foot covering. No food was produced, but all appeared quite pleased when I gave them of my stock, which consisted of bread and some preserved beef-steaks. Immediately after breakfast four dogs were harnessed to the sleigh, with which Notti and I continued our journey to Najtskaj, I riding and he running alongside the sleigh. At Irgunnuk, a Chukch village about an English mile east of Rirajtinop, a short stay was made in order to try to borrow some dogs, but without success. We continued our journey along the shore, and at 10 o'clock A.M. arrived at Najtskaj, which is from fifteen to eighteen kilometres E.S.E. from Irgunnuk. Here we were received by most of our former neighbours, the inhabitants of Pitlekaj. Of the thirteen tents of the village the five westernmost were occupied by the former population of Pitlekaj, while the eight lying more to the eastward were inhabited by other Chukches. The Pitlekaj people had not pitched their common large tents, but such as were of inconsiderable size or small ones fastened close together. In all the tents here, as at Rirajtinop and Irgunnuk, there was much blubber laid up, we saw pieces of seal and whole seals piled up before the tents, and on the way to Najtskaj we met several sledges loaded with seals, on their way to Pidlin. At Najtskaj I went out hunting accompanied by a Chukch. We started eight hares, but did not succeed in getting within range of them. A red fox was seen at a great distance but neither ptarmigan nor traces of them could be discovered. At two in the afternoon I returned to Irgunnuk and there got another sleigh drawn by ten dogs, with which I soon reached the vessel"
On the 20th February three large Chukch sledges laden with goods and drawn by sixteen to twenty dogs stopped at theVega. They said they came from the eastward, and were on their way to the market in the neighbourhood of Nischni Kolymsk. I again by way of experiment sent with them home-letters, for which, as they declined to take money, I gave them as postage three bottles of rum and abundant entertainment formen and dogs. In consideration of this payment they bound themselves faithfully to execute their commission and promised to return in May. And they kept then word. For on the 8th and 9th May a large number of sledges heavily laden with reindeer skins and drawn by many dogs, passed along the coast from west to east. Of course all rested at theVega, the only house of entertainment on the coast of the Asiatic Polar Sea, considering it as a matter of indisputable right, that they should in return for a little talk and gossip obtain food and "ram." Very eagerly they now informed us that a letter would come with another dog train that might be expected in a few hours. This was for us a very great piece of news, the importance of which none can understand who has never hungered for months for news from home, from the home-land and the home-world. Eager to know if we had actually to expecta postfrom Europe, we asked them how large the packet was "Very large" was the answer, and the "ram" was of course measured accordingly. But when at last the letter came it was found to be only an exceedingly short note from some of the Russian officials at Kolyma, informing me that our letters had reached him on the 4th April/23rd March and had been immediately sent by express to Yakutsk. Thence they were sent on by post, reaching Irkutsk on the 20th/14th May, and Sweden on the 2nd August.
During autumn and midwinter the sunshine was not of course strong and continuous enough to be painful to the eyes, but in February the light from the snow-clouds and the snow-drifts began to be troublesome enough. On the 22nd February accordingly snow-spectacles were distributed to all the men, an indispensable precaution, as I have before stated, in Arctic journeys. Many of the Chukches were also attacked with snow-blindness somewhat later in the season, and were very desirous of obtaining from us blue-coloured spectacles. Johnsen even stated that one of the hares he shot was evidently snow-blind.
On the evening of the 22th February there burst upon usa storm with drifting snow and a cold of -36°. To be out in such weather is not good even for a Chukch dog. Of this we had confirmation the next day, when a Chukch who had lost his way came on board, carrying a dog, frozen stiff, by the backbone, like a dead hare. He had with his dog gone astray on the ice and lain out, without eating anything, in a snow-drift for the night. The master himself had suffered nothing, he was only hungry, the dog on the other hand scarcely showed any sign of life. Both were naturally treated on board theVegawith great commiseration and kindness. They were taken to the 'tweendecks, where neither Chukches nor Chukch dogs were otherwise admitted, for the man an abundant meal was served of what we believed he would relish best, and he was then allowed, probably for the first time in his life, to sleep if not under a sooty, at least under a wooden roof. The dog was for hours carefully subjected to massage, with the result that he came to life again, which struck us, and, as it appeared, not least the Chukch himself, as something wonderful.
In the beginning of March there passed us a large number of sledges laden with reindeer skins, and drawn by eight to ten dogs each. Every sledge had a driver, and as usual the women took no part in the journey. These trains were on a commercial journey from Irkaipij to Päk at Behring's Straits. We found among the foremen many of our acquaintances from the preceding autumn, and I need not say that this gave occasion to a special entertainment, for the people, bread, a little spirits, soup, some sugar, and tobacco, for the dogs, pemmican. Conversation during such visits became very lively, and went on with little hindrance, since two of us were now somewhat at home in the Chukch language. For if I except two men, Menka and Noah Elisej, who could talk exceedingly defective Russian, there was not one of the reindeer or dog-foremen travelling past who could speak any European language, and notwithstanding this they all carry on an active commerce with the Russians. But theChukch is proud enough to require that his own language shall prevail in all international commerce in the north-east of Asia, and his neighbours find their advantage in this.
During the course of the winter, Lieutenant Nordquist collected from the Chukch foremen coming from a distance who travelled past, information regarding the state of the ice between Chaun Bay and Behring's Straits at different seasons of the year. Considering the immense importance of the question, even in a purely practical point of view, I shall quote verbatim the statements which he thus collected.
Statements regarding the state of the ice on the coast between Cape Yakan and Behring's Straits by Chukches living there.
"1. A Chukch from Yekanenmitschikan, near Cape Yakan, said that it is usual for open water to be there the whole summer.
"2. A Chukch from Kinmankau, which lies a little to the west of Cape Yakan, said the same.
"3. A Chukch from Yakan stated that the sea there becomes free of ice in the end of May or beginning of June. On the other hand it is never open in winter.
"4. Tatan from Yakan stated that the sea there is open from the end of May or beginning of June to the latter part of September or beginning of October, when the ice begins to drift towards the land.
"5. Rikkion from Vankarema said that the sea there is covered with ice in winter, but open in summer.
"6. A reindeer Chukch, Rotschitlen, who lives about twelve English miles from theVega'swinter quarters, said that Kolyutschin Bay, by the Chukches called Pidlin, is clear of ice the whole summer.
"7. Urtridlin from Kolyutschin said that neither at that island nor in Kolyutschin Bay is there any ice in summer.
"8. Ranau, from Yinretlen, also said that Kolyutschin Bay is always open in summer.
"9. Ettiu, from the village Nettej, between Irgunnuk and Behring's Straits, stated that the sea at Nettej is open in summer, independently of the wind, in winter only when the wind is southerly.
"10. Vankatte, from Nettej, stated that the sea there becomesopen during the month "Tautinyadlin," that is, the latter part of May and the beginning of June, and is again covered with ice during the month "Kutscshkau," or October and November.
"11. Kepljeplja, from the village Irgunnuk, lying five English miles east of theVega'swinter quarters at Pitlekaj, said that the sea off these villages is open all summer, except when northerly winds prevail. On the other hand, he said that farther westward, as at Irkaipij, ice could nearly always be seen from the land.
"12. Kapatljin, from Kingetschkun, a village between Irgunnuk and Behring's Straits, stated on the 11th January that there was then open water at that village. He said further, that Behring's Straits in winter are filled with ice when the wind is southerly, but open when the wind is northerly. The same day a Chukch from Nettej-Kengitschkau, also between Irgunnuk and Behring's Straits, stated that ice then lay off that village. He confirmed Kapatljin's statement regarding Behring's Straits.
"13. Kvano, from Uedlje, near Behring's Straits, said that there the sea is always open from May to the end of September."
On the 13th March we came to know that spirits, too, form an article of commerce here. For, without having obtained any liquor from theVega, the Chukches at Yinretlen had the means of indulging in a general fuddle, and that even their friendly disposition gives way under the effects of the intoxication we had a manifest proof, when the day after they came on board with blue and yellow eyes, not a little seedy and ashamed. In autumn a tall and stout Chukch giantess, who then paid us a visit, informed us that her husband had been murdered in a drunken quarrel.
Sledges of considerable size, drawn by reindeer, began after the middle of March to pass theVegain pretty large numbers. They were laden with reindeer skins and goods bought at the Russian market-places, and intended for barter at Behring's Straits.
The reindeer Chukches are better clothed, and appear to be in better circumstances and more independent than the coastChukches, or, as they ought to be called in correspondence with the former name, the dog Chukches. As every one owns a reindeer herd, all must follow the nomad mode of living, but at the same time they carry on traffic between the savages in the northernmost parts of America and the Russian fur-dealers in Siberia, and many pass their whole lives in commercial journeys. The principal market is held annually during the mouth of March, on an island in the river Little Anjui, 250 versts from Nischni Kolymsk. The barter goes on in accordance with a normal price-list, mutually agreed upon by the Russian merchants and the oldest of the Chukches. The market is inaugurated on the part of the Russians by a mass performed by the priest,[260]who always accompanies the Russian crown commissioner, and in the Chukches' camp with buffoonery by one of the Chukch Shamans. At such a market there is said to be considerable confusion, to judge by the spirited description which Wrangel gives of it (Reise, i. p. 269). We ought, however, to remember that this description refers to the customs that prevailed sixty years ago. Now, perhaps, there is a great changethere. In the commercial relations in north-eastern Asia in the beginning of this century, we have probably a faithful picture of the commerce of the Beormas in former days in north-eastern Europe. Even the goods were probably of the same sort at both places, perhaps, also, the stand-points of the culture of the two races.
Besides the traders, a large number of Chukches from Kolyutschin Island and other villages to the west, travelled past us with empty sledges, to which were harnessed only a few dogs. They returned in the course of a few days with their sledges fully laden with fish which they said they had caught in a lagoon situated to the eastward. They also sometimes sold a delicious variety of the Coregonus taken in a lake in the interior some distance from the coast.
Further on in winter a number of excursions were undertaken in different directions, partly to find out these fishing places, partly to get an idea of the mode of life of the reindeer Chukches. I, however, never ventured to give permission for any long absence from the vessel, because I was quite convinced that the sea round theVegaafter a few days' constant southerly storm might become open under circumstances which would not permit us to remain in the open road where we lay moored, my comrades' desire to penetrate far into the Chukch peninsula could not on that account be satisfied. But short as these excursions were, they give us, however, much information regarding our winter life, and our contact with the little-known tribe, on the coast of whose homeland theVegahad been beset, and on that account, perhaps, there may be reasons for making extracts from some of the reports given in to me with reference to these journeys.
Palander's and Kjellman's excursion to a reindeer Chukch camp south-west of Pitlekaj, is sketched by the former thus:—
"On the 17th March, 1879, accompanied by Dr. Kjellman, I went out with a sledge and five men, among them a native asguide, to the reindeer Chukch camp in the neighbourhood of Taffelberg (Table Mountain), with a view to obtain fresh reindeer flesh. The expedition was fitted out with two days' provisions, tent, mattrasses, andpesks. The reindeer Chukches were met with eleven English miles from the vessel. On an eminence here were found two tents, of which one at the time was uninhabited. The other was occupied by the Chukch, Rotschitlen, his young wife, and another young pair, the latter, if I understood them right, being on a visit, and properly having their home at Irgunnuk.