Charlton’s account book shows that shaving and dressing also came at different prices according to the services given. The charge for a year usually amounted to two pounds three shillings. It might, however, be as little as the one pound five shillings that Peter Pelham twice incurred or as much as the four pounds that Speaker Randolph paid. Pelham, organist at Bruton Parish Church and keeper of the colony’s gaol, found time in a busy life to father a family of sixteen children but never got around to paying his little debt to the barber. The account book shows it, along with 13 years’ accrued interest, still unpaid in 1784.
Besides the 60 brown dress bobs he made in 1770—seemingly a typical year for him—Charlton sold 20 brown dress queue wigs, three grizzle bobs, one each of three other styles, made curls or dressed ladies’ hair on 28 occasions, and had 42 annual customers for shaving and dressing. During the court or Assembly sessions many additional patrons demanded these last services. All of his 1770 business should have brought Charlton well over £300 in 1771, when most payments would have been made. Actually he received roughly £260 in that year, with the balance probably dribbling in over the next decade—or in some cases never paid.
The difficulties of debt collection were among the reasons why so many colonial Virginia craftsmen sought to augment their income by branching into some other activity. Williamsburg wigmakers favored innkeeping as their second occupation. No fewer than five operated ordinaries or provided lodgings, and one of them, Robert Lyon, moved on to become a merchant. David Cunningham served as the town constable for several years, and Alexander Finnie, of course, left the wig trade entirely to become host of the Raleigh Tavern.
A facsimile of Andrew Anderson’s bill to Colonel Thomas Jones, then of Williamsburg, for services to various members of the latter’s household, apparently including servants, during 1741, 1742, and 1743. Note that there are more entries for pulling teeth and bleeding the sick than for making and dressing wigs. (Reproduced by permission from the Jones Family Papers, Library of Congress.)
A facsimile of Andrew Anderson’s bill to Colonel Thomas Jones, then of Williamsburg, for services to various members of the latter’s household, apparently including servants, during 1741, 1742, and 1743. Note that there are more entries for pulling teeth and bleeding the sick than for making and dressing wigs. (Reproduced by permission from the Jones Family Papers, Library of Congress.)
In addition to wigmaking, shaving, and hairdressing, Andrew Anderson practiced dentistry and phlebotomy (bleeding). But these were traditional phases of the barbering craft, not extra occupations—albeit only Anderson among Williamsburg barbers practiced them so far as we know.
Charlton at one time took a flier in real estate along with John Stretch, bookbinder and bookkeeper in William Hunter’s printing office. The partners bought the playhouse and lot (about where Mrs. Campbell’s Tavern now stands) from Lewis Hallam, proprietor of the Company of Comedians recently from London. The evidence is inconclusive, but suggests that the venture was not a glittering success.
From time to time Charlton recorded the sale of such items as a “Ferkin of butter,” a gross of bottles (apparently empty), “eight pounds Chooklate,” stockings, “five Hundred Limes,” a piece of linen, three dozen strong beer, one “cheas,” and part of a lottery ticket. However intriguing these entries may be, they are too infrequent and irregular to support a conclusion that the barber was running a retail store on the side. When so much business was done by barter, any craftsman might have incongruous articles to sell.
Like the Silversmith James Geddy, Jr., and other craftsmen of Williamsburg, Charlton once served on the city’s common council. This position carried no compensation, but election to it showed that a man’s neighbors trusted and respected him.
The tradition of the humble artisan whose industry and integrity earned him the esteem of his fellow citizens ran strong in colonial America. Unfortunately for the wigmakers, however, no bulwark could withstand the ebb tide of fashion. George Lafong, whose Williamsburg wig shop rivaled Charlton’s in the early 1770s, ended as a beggar in1796. Someone, it seems, must pay the price for every forward step in the march of progress. Were it not so, all of us might still be wearing wigs today.
Andrew Anderson—Apprenticed for seven years to John Peter Wagnon of Williamsburg in 1731. After only five years became his own master and bought Wagnon’s shop next to the Raleigh Tavern. The only Williamsburg barber known to have practiced dentistry and phlebotomy. Frequently in court as witness, plaintiff, or defendant in suits over property, debts, etc. Sold out to William Peake, Yorktown barber and wigmaker, and was preparing to leave for England when he died suddenly in 1752.
Stephen Besouth—Died April 3, 1726, leaving an estate appraised at £40 12s.1d.and consisting almost solely of articles suitable to barbering and wigmaking.
Daniel Blouett—Arrived in Virginia in 1700 as a Huguenot refugee. Bought a lot in Williamsburg in 1713, the deed identifying him as a “Peruke-Maker.” Died in 1720. His name was variously spelled (or misspelled) in different records: Blouet, Bluet, Bleuet, Blewitt, Blewit, Blewet, Blouett, and Blouette.
John Borton—TheVirginia Gazetteof March 3, 1768, published a list of letters in the post office waiting to be claimed by their addressees. One was for “John Borton, perukemaker, Williamsburg.” Nothing more is known of him.
Simon Brazier—A partner of Anthony Geohegan, Williamsburg barber and wigmaker, from April to about November 1768.
John Bryan—A partner of Alexander Maitland in the wigmaking craft in 1752 and later sole proprietor of a shop on Williamsburg’s main street. Possibly moved away from the town in 1756.
Edward Charlton—In 1752, soon after arriving from London, became a partner of Richard Gamble in the latter’s shop next door to the Raleigh Tavern. Continued the business after Gamble’s death and was the town’s foremost wigmaker until the Revolution. Died sometime between 1783 and 1792.
Richard Charlton—Presumably related to Edward. Probably was not himself a barber or wigmaker, but was briefly an inactive partner of James Nichols, Williamsburg wigmaker, and on occasion purveyed wigs to customers of his well-patronized tavern.
David Cunningham—In addition to barbering and wigmaking, operated an ordinary (inn) at his house near the Capitol and for several years served as constable of Williamsburg. Died in 1720.
James Currie—Took over in 1752 the former shop of Andrew Anderson in partnership with William Peake of Yorktown. Later moved across the street to his own shop. Ordered in 1759 to pay the support of “Mary Seveney’s Bastard Child.” May have left town thereafter, as his shop and the lot it stood on were sold in 1761.
William Davenport—An inventoried appraisal of his estate in 1770 listed a number of items used by barbers and wigmakers.
Mr. Davidson—The register of Bruton Parish Church in Williamsburg records the death on October 1, 1749, of “Mr. Davidson—the Barber.” Nothing more is known of him.
William Duncan—Was an indentured servant in 1753 of Robert Lyon, Williamsburg wigmaker. Died twoyears later, leaving an estate appraised by three other wigmakers at £28 and consisting mostly of wigmaking articles and supplies.
Alexander Finnie—Seemingly successful as wigmaker, tavernkeeper, and property-owner. Advertised in 1745 for two or three journeymen, luring one from Andrew Anderson, and imported more the next year. Acquired the Raleigh Tavern in 1749 and the new (second) theater in 1751, actively managing the former until he sold both properties in 1752. At his death in 1769 also owned Porto Bello plantation outside Williamsburg.
Richard Gamble—From 1743 onward regularly cited in court records for failing to attend church and to pay debts. In 1752 took Edward Charlton into partnership to run his shop next to the Raleigh. Died in 1755 leaving no known family or real property and only £14 worth of barbering and wigmaking articles.
Anthony Geohegan—Opened shop next door to Mrs. Vobe’s tavern across from the Raleigh in 1768. Took Simon Brazier briefly into partnership the same year. Moved to Richmond sometime between 1770 and 1775, having in the meantime married Martha Lavia, Williamsburg widow.
William Godfrey—Announced in 1766 that he had opened shop between the Raleigh Tavern and the Capitol. Nothing more is known of his wigmaking activities, but he figured in several court cases during the following seven years.
Thomas Hewitt—Was an indentured servant of Robert Lyon in 1753 and may have had his own shop in Williamsburg before moving to Annapolis about 1762.
Cuthbert Hubbard—In 1771 advertised that he was still carrying on his wigmaking business in addition to offering lodgings. Died in 1779. His will mentioned onlytwo articles used by wigmakers and the inventory of his estate listed none.
George Lafong—Kept shop in Williamsburg from 1762 to 1783, at one time selling a pair of curls to Patsy Custis, Washington’s stepdaughter. Advertised on several occasions for a journeyman to help him, and in 1777 took Alexander Wiley into partnership. Nineteen years later Lafong turned up as a beggar on the streets of Norfolk.
Walter Lennox—First appeared in Williamsburg court records in 1759. From 1768 had his shop at the Sign of the Red Lion, where he also offered lodgings. His frequent advertisements for a journeyman indicate that he did a lively business. Lodged and boarded sick soldiers in the Revolution and supplied provisions to the army.
Robert Lyon—In various businesses from 1749 to 1771, first as barber and wigmaker. Took up tavernkeeping at the Sign of Edinburgh Castle, near the Capitol, in 1755. Four years later had become a merchant whose store faced on Market Square.
Alexander Maitland—With his partner, John Bryan, advertised wigmaking services once in 1752. Thereafter Maitland appears to have moved to Yorktown.
James Martin—Court records and the like show him to have been in Williamsburg from 1760 to 1766; he never advertised in theVirginia Gazette. At his death he left a large estate including 18 wigs and other barbering articles as well as items that point strongly to his being also a tavernkeeper.
James Nichols—Coming from London, he opened shop first in Petersburg in 1772 and three years later in Williamsburg. Took Richard Charlton into a brief and unsuccessful partnership in 1776. Advertised his property for rent in 1779, and by 1784 was located in Norfolk.
This page from François-Alexandre-Pierre de Garsault’sThe Art of the Wigmaker, with illustrations similar to those of Diderot’sEncyclopedia, shows the following styles: (by letter, not in the usual order): (A) bonnet or short wig; (B) bag wig; (C) knotted wig; (D) clerical wig; (E) natural wig; (F) square wig; (G) brigadier wig; and (H) double pigtail wig.
This page from François-Alexandre-Pierre de Garsault’sThe Art of the Wigmaker, with illustrations similar to those of Diderot’sEncyclopedia, shows the following styles: (by letter, not in the usual order): (A) bonnet or short wig; (B) bag wig; (C) knotted wig; (D) clerical wig; (E) natural wig; (F) square wig; (G) brigadier wig; and (H) double pigtail wig.
Jean Pasteur—A Huguenot refugee who had settled in Williamsburg by 1703. Appeared in court in the usual roles with the usual frequency. Died in 1741, leaving a moderate amount of barbering and wigmaking articles.
[John]James Pasteur—Eldest son of the wigmaker Jean Pasteur, he followed his father’s craft for a while, then his own natural bent for learning. Became master of a grammar school and then an Anglican clergyman in Norfolk County.
William Peake—A Yorktown barber, wigmaker, and dealer in imported wigmaking supplies who made a brief appearance in Williamsburg, first opening shop in the tavern of William Dunn, then buying the old shop of Andrew Anderson and taking into partnership James Currie. Currie seems to have run the Williamsburg end of the combine while Peake returned to Yorktown.
Edward Perry—The Guardian Accounts of York County show that he was paid for shaving and a wig in 1748. Nothing more is known of his barbering or wigmaking activity.
George Simmons—An advertisement in theVirginia Gazetteof April 14, 1774, mentions “Mr. George Simmons, Peruke Maker.” Nothing more is known of him.
Robert Tennoch—His name first appeared in court records of 1722. Described himself as “Perukemaker” in his will, probated in 1726. His estate included barbering articles.
John Peter Wagnon—Andrew Anderson was bound as apprentice to him in 1731 to learn “the business of Barber and Peruke Maker.” After five years Wagnon gave Anderson his liberty and sold him the shop next to the Raleigh Tavern.
Alexander Wiley—Became a partner of George Lafong in 1775 and continued so at least until 1777, the last known appearance of his name.
Janet Arnold,Perukes & Periwigs. London: Her Majesty’s Stationery Office, 1970.
C. Willett and Phyllis Cunnington,Handbook of English Costume in the Eighteenth Century. Rev. ed. Boston: Plays, Inc., 1972.
Marshall B. Davidson,Life in America. 2 vols. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1951.
Charles De Zemler,Once Over Lightly: The Story of Man and His Hair. New York, 1939.
Alice M. Earle,Two Centuries of Costume in America, 1620-1820. New York: Macmillan, 1903.
Mary Evans,Costume Throughout the Ages. 2nd ed., rev. Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott Co., 1950.
Francis M. Kelly and Randolph Schwabe,Historic Costume: A Chronicle of Fashion in Western Europe, 1490-1790. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1925.
Carl Köhler,A History of Costume. New York: G. Howard Watt, 1928.
Bernard Lens,The Exact Dress of the Head. London: The Costume Society, 1970.
Elisabeth McClellan,Historic Dress in America, 1607-1800. Philadelphia: George W. Jacobs & Co., 1904.
R. Turner Wilcox,The Mode in Costume. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1948.
——,The Mode in Hats and Headdress. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1952.
The Wigmaker in Eighteenth-Century Williamsburg, based largely on an unpublished monograph by Thomas K. Bullock and Maurice B. Tonkin, Jr., formerly of the Colonial Williamsburg research staff, assisted by Raymond R. Townsend, former researcher in crafts, was prepared with the editorial assistance of Thomas K. Ford, now retired as editor of Colonial Williamsburg publications. It was first published in 1959 and previously reprinted in 1965, 1968, 1971, and 1979.