DR. LIVINGSTONE NEAR THE CLOSE OF HIS LAST JOURNEY.DR. LIVINGSTONE NEAR THE CLOSE OF HIS LAST JOURNEY.
The women were more elaborate in their manner of tattooing than the men, probably because they had so very few ornaments. The following of such a fashion among them must have been a most painful luxury, when we consider how slow and tedious the process of tattooing must be.
Another curious custom was the hollowing of the two front teeth on the cutting edge.
Much politeness was shown in their relations with one another. Clapping of the hands in various ways was employed as the means of expressing such polite sentiments as, "Allow me," "I beg pardon," "Permit me to pass," "Thank you." This clapping of the hands was also used in making introductions and in leave-taking, and was also resorted to in assemblies when it was desirable to attract attention in debates, as in calling out, "Hear, hear!"
The chiefs were mostly friendly and provided Livingstone and his party with food, when necessary, in exchange for "a cloth," which meant two yards of unbleached cotton.
In various villages Livingstone noticed miniature huts about two feet high. These were neatly thatched and plastered. In accordance with a custom, which seemed to belong to this special section, these huts had been built on the death of a child or relative. When any special food was cooked, it was the custom to place a portion in the tiny hut, in the strong belief that it would be enjoyed by the spirit of the departed.
STANLEY ON THE MARCH.STANLEY ON THE MARCH.
The people of the Mopané Forest are described as having round bulletlike heads, high cheek bones, and an upward slant to the eyes. These features, together with their snub noses, might well enable them to pass for Bushmen or Hottentots.
They file their teeth to points, but wear no lip ring. In dressing the hair they part it so as to let it lie in a net at the nape of the neck.
Their mode of salutation is as absurd as it is inelegant, for the men throw themselves in a half-recumbent position upon the ground, clapping the hands and making a disagreeable half-smacking sound with the lips by way of salute.
It would be interesting to follow out the story of Livingstone's life; his rescue by Stanley when nearly the whole world believed him to have perished from want and privation in some African forest; of his subsequent explorations, his death, and the transportation of his body to England and interment in Westminster Abbey.
No less interesting should we find it to follow Stanley through jungle and thicket, and in hairbreadth encounters with fierce cannibals who cried greedily, "Meat, meat! Give us meat! Ah! now we shall have meat!" whenever they caught sight of the white man. It would be a matter of interest, too, to try to solve the problem of the commercial standing of Africa in the near future.
In imagination we can picture the sad details of strife and conflict and feel our hearts throb with pity for the poor savage, as he makes his piteous appeal to the white man, "What great harm have I done? I have but sought to protect my people and the land of my fathers. I sue only for peace and protection in this, the land of my birth."
SPHINX AND PYRAMID.SPHINX AND PYRAMID.
We have only to look at the map of Africa to realize with what rapidity the leading nations of Europe are taking possession of the choicest portions of the continent. Let us trust that the opening of the country to commercial interests will mean peace, prosperity, and the blessings of civilization for the original owners of the soil; then shall we indeed have reason to rejoice over the future of Africa.
It is difficult, when looking at the map of Africa, to realize that the Straits of Gibraltar are all that separate it from Europe, a continent differing widely from it in every respect.
True, standing upon the northern shore, we find ourselves in a country which will recall to our minds some of the characteristics of sunny Spain. A short journey of three or four hours farther south will transport us, however, into a section where everything is new and strange.
Pleasant as we have found it to catch glimpses of Africa in our reading, interesting as we have found it to trace the footprints of travelers, we shall now find ourselves enjoying nearer and clearer views of the continent, as we approach it from the coast of Europe.
We will enter the continent from the northwestern extremity, the section known as the Empire of Morocco, called by the Arabs, "the far west."
Tangier, the small seaport at which our little steamer anchors, is situated on a small bay, or inlet, of the Straits of Gibraltar, the division line old Father Ocean has marked between Africa and Europe, and lies thirty-eight miles southwest of the town of Gibraltar.
It is with mingled feelings of awe, curiosity, and interest that we catch our first glimpses of Africa from the bridge of the little steamer which has carried us safely to within sight of shore.
The white walls of Tangier can be distinctly seen, and numerous boats are fast approaching the steamer in quest of passengers. Just behind the boats, following in their wake, a crowd of Arabs, scantily clad in tattered garments, come wading through the water, halfway to their waists.
With outstretched arms, and wild, fierce cries and gestures, they draw nearer and nearer, their actions strikingly suggestive of maniacs bent upon wanton mischief or pirates in search of plunder.
It is with no little fear that we enter one of the boats now at the steamer's side; but as we approach to within a short distance from the shore our fear becomes intensified, for the whole swarm of what we can scarcely recognize as human beings, surround the boat.
They throw themselves upon us, lay hands upon us, and, with frantic gestures and vociferous cries in Arabic and Spanish, endeavor to gain our attention. It is with a feeling of genuine relief that we finally comprehendthe meaning of the strange scene, and find that all this hubbub is to give us the information that the tide is low, that it will be impossible for the boat to approach any nearer to the shore, and that we must be carried the remaining distance upon the shoulders of these uncouth Arabs.
It is not a pleasant mode of reaching land again, but we must submit to the ordeal. It is not so unpleasant for the ladies, for they are safely carried to shore in chairs; but each gentleman considers himself very fortunate when he finally reachesterra firmawithout having dipped the soles of his feet in the water during this trip to shore, astride his queer two-footed steed.
Once safely landed, however, we begin to look about us. The people passing in the street seem to be enveloped in a long white, woolen garment or cloak. This has a large hood, which is generally brought straight up over the head.
This hooded populace passes us, with grave faces, slowly, silently, as if seeking to escape notice. Others may be found crouching along the walls of the buildings, or seated at the corners of the streets, with eyes as fixed and faces as immovable as though in a trance.
All expression of interest in the surroundings or in the affairs of the world seems to have faded from the faces of the people. They appear to be lost in meditation or sunk in day dreams, impassive to all that is going on around them.
Moving through the crowd, however, we become conscious, upon nearer view, that there is not so much uniformity as we had at first supposed. We perceivefaces of all hues,—black, white, yellow, and even bronze.
As the long, silent procession passes, we perceive old men bent and worn with age, figures shriveled and dried like Egyptian mummies, women with face and body wrapped and concealed in a mass of rags, and children with nothing childlike in face or person unless it be their long tresses. Here are people whose heads are ornamented with long tufts of wooly hair, others with heads glistening like polished ivory or metal, so closely have they been shorn of their locks.
The town of Tangier is a curious sight, with its labyrinth of narrow streets; so narrow as to be scarcely more than corridors.
Rows of white houses line these streets and present an odd appearance to the looker-on. They are usually without windows, and the narrow doorways are scarcely wide enough for a man to enter by them. They give one the impression that they belong to a prison, or possibly a house of refuge or concealment.
Occasionally a door, or even a window, is seen with some Moorish decoration. Again a band of red may be found at the foot of a wall, or a hand may be discerned painted in black upon the doorway. Such marks are superstitiously regarded as charms to keep away evil influences.
The air in the streets is very offensive. Most thoroughfares are littered with heaps of decaying vegetables, old rags, bones, feathers, and other substances, with an occasional dead dog or cat lying about. These render the air most disagreeable and unwholesome.Added to this are the mingled odors of garlic, burnt aloes, benzoin, fish, and the smoke of various substances that may be burning. Here and there groups of Arab boys may be seen playing at their various games; or they may be heard chanting, in their shrill, nasal tones, verses from the Koran, which is their only schoolbook.
The scene is a varied one. Here is a wretched beggar crouching in the dust in the hope of awakening pity in the heart of the passer-by; there a Moor mounted upon a mule. Then presently an overloaded donkey comes in sight, a half-clothed Arab trotting by his side and showering heavy blows upon him in the vain attempt to urge him on to greater speed; now a half-starved dog or vagrant cat skulks by, as if in terror at the sight of man.
Tangier has one principal square. It is a small rectangular place with one long street running through it. This street ascends from the sea landing through the entire length of the town. Numerous shops are scattered about the square, which are of so simple a character that those of the humblest village in Europe would appear quite grand in comparison.
At one side of the square is a fountain, where at any hour in the day may be found knots of Arabs or groups of negroes, who have come to get water. On the other side of the street, eight or ten women, closely veiled, remain seated on the ground from early dawn till close of day, silently offering for sale the loaves of bread arranged before them.
TANGIER.TANGIER.
The square is the business center of Tangier. Grouped about it are found the homes of the representatives of foreign lands. Their houses are very simple, yet, contrasted with the common dingy houses of the town, they appear quite like palaces.
The aspect of business life in this little square is like that of any village center, with its single grocery store, tobacco shop, and unpretentious café. The latter is merely a humble little room, upon the walls of which various printed notices of the current topics of the day are posted.
A billiard table is one of its features, and assembled round it, or lounging about the room, is usually a motley crowd. Rich Moors idle away the hours, Jewish traders discuss their business transactions, half-clothed vagabonds look on with listless expression, Arab porters await the arrival of the steamers, employees of the foreign representatives rest during the noon hour, while various strangers, some just landed, and numerous beggars, add variety to the scene, which is as interesting as it is unique.
The Moorish shops here, as well as those of Cairo in Egypt, differ much from those of the countries in Europe. Each is built like an alcove about a foot above the level of the sidewalk. In front is an opening at which the customer stands as if before a window. The merchant, with his goods spread out before him, sits cross-legged in his narrow shop, like a statue in a niche. We are led to wonder, as we watch him, if he may not be merely of wood or stone, so immovable is he; and we almost expect to find some machinery that may set him in motion.
These merchants seem to pass hours and even dayswrapped in reverie, or mechanically touching a chaplet of beads, as they utter the words of the Koran.
A curious feature of Tangier and other cities of Morocco may often be witnessed by night. Upon the stillness of a slumbering city breaks a sound as of a distant bombardment. This soon brings to the doors and windows a crowd of people, who are at first startled, but who quickly become expectant of what is to follow.
The sound draws nearer and nearer; a surging crowd appears surrounding something shaped like a casket upon end. This is borne upon the back of a horse or camel. The flare of innumerable torches lights up the novel scene. As the procession advances slowly, a droning, plaintive sound of music is heard, accompanying a dismal, nasal chant. Shrill cries, the barking of dogs, and the sound of guns but add to the general confusion.
The curiosity of a stranger makes him keen to know the meaning of this strange scene. The explanation is simple. It is but the wedding procession of a young bride as she is being conducted to the house of her bridegroom; and the upright coffer, or casket, is but the conveyance in which she is being carried to her future home.
Many of the inhabitants use no wine, since they are followers of the Prophet Mohammed, and their faith forbids its use. In some homes this custom is not so rigidly enforced, and at the time of feasts wine is used quite freely.
The master of a Moorish house usually meets his guests in a square courtyard, found in the center ofhis mansion. Two large chambers open out from this, which have no windows, but are entered through a large, arched doorway closed by a portiere or a heavy, massive curtain.
The outside walls are generally of dazzling white, the arches of the doorway are not bare of ornament, and the pavement is of beautiful mosaic work.
At intervals in the inner walls are small niches for the slippers which custom demands shall be used by all who enter a Moorish house. The tiles of the floor are often covered with beautiful Moorish rugs and carpets. On each side of the doorway are large chandeliers. These are brilliant with numerous lighted candles of various colorings. On the tables are beautiful mirrors, and masses of brilliant flowers, to add enchantment to the scene.
A stranger, upon entering one of these houses for the first time, might fancy himself looking at the interior decoration of a theatre, the ornamentation of a church, the gilded trimmings of a ballroom, or the luxuriance of a regal palace.
The grace and elegance of the appointments, the brilliant lights and coloring, add novelty and enchantment to a scene that might have been taken from the "Arabian Nights."
Leaving Tangier, we will proceed to Fez, the great metropolis of Morocco. If we wish to gain any definite knowledge of this important city of the Sultan's dominions we must by no means fail to visit it.
Fez was founded more than eight hundred years before Christ. During the Middle Ages it was consideredone of the largest, handsomest, and most important of the Mohammedan cities. At that time it was the capital of Morocco, and was said to have contained ninety thousand dwellings, nearly seven hundred mosques, besides magnificent public buildings, fine schools, and scientific institutions.
About the middle of the sixteenth century the court was removed to Morocco, and Fez gradually exerted less and less influence. It is still, however, a city of importance and the capital of the northern province of the empire of Morocco.
Fez has rather a peculiar situation. It is in a tunnel-shaped valley, surrounded by hills. The higher portions of the valley are covered with a growth of trees. Orange groves and orchards are not uncommon features. The city is divided into Old and New Fez by one of the branches of the Sebu, or "river of pearls."
Fez is regarded as theHoly Cityby the western Arabs, on account of the many mosques and relics it contains. It is said still to contain one hundred mosques. The most important of these contains the monument of its builder, Sultan Muley Edris. It is sought by criminals as a place of refuge, when they are in danger of arrest. So strong is the feeling for the sanctity of the place, that no refugee is ever molested while under its roof.
The old palace of the Sultan, which still stands, is fast falling into decay since the removal of the court to Morocco.
The external aspect of Fez does not differ materially from other Mohammedan towns. There are the variousbaths and bazaars with which the eye becomes familiarized; the numerous caravansaries, or inns, for the accommodation of the many caravans that assemble here on their way to and fro across the desert. These inns are large square buildings with open courtyards in the middle.
The multitude of hotels and shops on all sides is the only feature to remind the stranger of European cities. Fez still carries on quite a considerable trade by means of caravans, which travel into the adjoining countries on the south and east, as far as Timbuctoo.
Both Old and New Fez are surrounded by old brick walls and great towers of limestone. These are fast crumbling to pieces from exposure to the elements.
Outside of the gates of the city and for a good distance into the surrounding country may be seen traces of the foundation of a city. Everything points to its ruin by war and conflagration; for here are seen monuments, ruined tombs, and arches of aqueducts, remnants of the past.
As we enter the city a constantly increasing crowd is seen. Men stop to look at us with an air of astonishment or curiosity; women turn aside their faces, and try to hide themselves from our gaze; the very children flee from us in dismay, uttering cries of fear in their flight.
On either hand we behold fountains richly ornamented in mosaic work, or doorways beautiful with arabesque decorations, characteristic of the Arabian taste, consisting of a fanciful combination of all kinds of figures of men and animals, either real or imaginary.
Here and there we behold arcades and remnants of fine Arabic architecture, all showing the destroying touch of Father Time. At intervals we plunge into dark covered passage ways and emerge into the light only to enter again into shadow. The principal streets, usually thronged, are only about seven feet wide. On either hand are open bazaars filled with animated buyers.
A WATER CARRIER AT FEZ.A WATER CARRIER AT FEZ.
The courts of the various inns are piled high with bales of merchandise, and the entrances of the mosques present a long perspective of white arcades and the prostrate figures of the worshipers engaged in prayer.
We find the air impregnated with the varied and penetratingodor of aloes and aromatic perfumes, or with the oppressive smell of incense, till it seems to us as if we were within the walls of some mammoth drug store. On every side dirt and squalor abound, and clouds of dust fill the air, so that the eyes, nose, and the lungs even, are uncomfortably affected.
The terraces on the house tops are a pleasant sight in the cool of the day. In Fez, as in other cities of the empire, these terraces are reserved for the women, and are considered rather a necessary feature of the harem, or women's apartments.
They are built high above the ground, many of them being surrounded by a wall higher than a man's head. This is pierced with loopholes, since it would be impossible to look over the top of it.
The imperial palace is a very lofty edifice built upon an eminence. The view from the top of it discloses thousands of white terraces. From the palace there is also a fine view of the hills encircling the city and of the mountains towering in the distance.
It is interesting to catch a glimpse of the Moorish women upon the terraced house tops, many of which have parapets, or walls, breast high, to surround them. Most of the women are richly dressed, and may be seen strolling backwards and forwards, or seated upon the parapets. Some of the younger ones amuse themselves by leaping like children from one terrace to another; they play at hide and seek, or laughingly splash water in one another's faces, as merry as children. Others appear older and more sedate, and mingling with them may be seen groups of children of eight or ten years of age.
The greater part of these Moorish women wear the hair flowing loosely over the shoulders. A large red or green handkerchief is bound around the head to keep the hair in place.
The dress most commonly seen is a loosely flowing robe of varied and brilliant coloring. It has very large flowing sleeves, and is fastened about the waist by a blue or red sash. A jacket, open at the chest, large, full trousers, yellow slippers, and heavy silver anklets complete this curious yet attractive costume. All are arrayed in oriental costumes of the most vivid coloring.
Many of the Moorish women are considered very beautiful, with their almond-shaped eyes veiled by long lashes, a slightly curved nose, and small, rounded mouth; but to our eyes their faces lack animation. The eyes are heavy and sleepy looking, and the rouge, powder, and various cosmetics which they employ when making their toilet render them hideous rather than beautiful in the eyes of practical Americans.
Living as they do in the closest seclusion, with no social nor educational advantages, we cannot wonder that their minds are undeveloped and inactive, and that life at best in the Moorish household, is, for its women, monotonous and dull.
Leaving the city of Fez in the company of a caravan, we reach the capital of Morocco after several days and nights of travel and of camping out.
The city of Morocco stands on a plain and is surrounded by walls six miles in circumference, with square towers one hundred and fifty feet apart rising fromthem. These walls are built of a kind of cement made from finely powdered lime and earth. Eleven gates, or entrances, pierce these walls, and crowds of people are coming and going constantly through them during the day.
Morocco cannot be said to be a very brilliant capital. The streets are narrow and dark, and a stranger would not care to wander through them at night. The houses, like those in other parts of the empire, are mostly of one story, with flat roofs. The interior is more attractive than the exterior. The apartments are usually built around a court; within this court a fountain or a statue forms the center of attraction.
The apartments themselves are furnished elaborately, and would seem almost elegant in their appointments, were they fresher and less dilapidated. In many of the houses are rich carvings of a style and finish of earlier and more prosperous times.
Just outside the city walls is the emperor's palace. The grounds surrounding it are very extensive and are kept in excellent order. Although the gardens can in no way be compared with the royal gardens in Europe, yet they do not lack beauty. They cannot be considered as open to the public, yet travelers are admitted to certain parts of them, and Europeans receive marked attention from the officials.
After the heat and noise, to say nothing of the disagreeable odors of the city, it is a relief to get outside the walls and enjoy the beauty and sweetness of the royal gardens. Here in the cool and quiet is the best place from which to view the royal family, the various officers of state, and such distinguished guests as may be in attendance on the court.
DINNER TIME IN MOROCCO.DINNER TIME IN MOROCCO.
The palace of the emperor is far from imposing; there is, in fact, nothing remarkable about it. Some of our hotels present a more elegant and imposing appearance.
The population of Morocco is, as we might suppose, a mixed one. People of all colors, the educated and the ignorant of all classes mingle together. Here, in fact, are all sorts and conditions of men.
Mekinez is the summer residence of the Sultan. It has a fine situation in the midst of olive plantations, about forty miles west of Fez, to which broad streets, lined with beautiful shade trees, present a very pleasing contrast. It is surrounded by a triple row of notched or crenated walls, and the approach to the city in the full light of midday is most beautiful, with the thousands of white terraces standing out in bold relief from the deep blue sky.
Not a column of smoke can we perceive ascending from any of the multitude of houses; not a person is visible either upon the terraces or before the walks; not a sound is to be heard.
We might believe we were in an enchanted city where some "sleeping beauty" lay waiting for the hundred years to expire. We stand in silence, as if spellbound by the grandeur of some wondrous painting.
There is a saying, among the natives, that Mekinez can justly lay claim to having the most beautiful women in the empire of Morocco, the most ornamentalgardens in Africa, and the finest imperial in the world.
Directly west of the city of Morocco and farther south than Mekinez lies Mogadore, the most important seaport of Morocco upon the Atlantic coast. The inhabitants, who take great pride in their town, give it a name signifying square. It is, however, somewhat triangular in shape.
The town is quite modern in its construction. It is built upon a sandy beach; which, fortunately, has a rocky foundation. The streets are somewhat narrow, but they are straight and well laid out. The houses are arranged with much regularity and precision on either side.
The town is divided into two parts. One section contains the citadel, the public buildings, governor's palace, and the residences of the consuls and merchants who represent the several countries of Europe. The other section of the town is occupied by the Jews and Moors. The Moors have their own special quarter, calledvillah, which the police close at night.
The walls of the town are not especially high nor strong. They are, however, of sufficient height and strength to serve as a defense against the attacks of the savage mountain tribes and the Arabs of the plains.
The harbor of Mogadore is formed by a bay, which is closed by an island of the same name situated about two miles from the mainland. The harbor contains some slight fortifications and a mosque—all situated upon this island.
It has been estimated that the town of Mogadore hasa population numbering between thirteen and fifteen thousand people. About four thousand of these are Jews, and there are possibly one thousand Christians.
If we approach the town from the interior it presents a most curious aspect, surrounded as it is by immense batteries in the form of pyramids. Each of these is constructed in such a way as to serve as a defense to the approaches to the city. An aqueduct, which is filled from a small river, furnishes the water supply for the inhabitants.
The climate of the town is very healthy. There are no lowlands nor marshes to breed malarial fevers. Rain seldom falls, but the dryness of the air is tempered by the Atlas mountain chain on the one side, and the sea on the other. The former serves to keep off the hot land breezes, while the latter lends its refreshing breezes to give coolness and moisture to the atmosphere.
The suburbs of Mogadore consist mainly of desolate waste land. At intervals gardens with a few vegetables and flowers may be seen. These gardens are always cultivated in the very midst of the sand at no little outlay of time and strength. They furnish striking evidence of man's ingenuity to make the most of his resources, even in so sterile a land.
At one side of the town are two cemeteries; one for Christians, the other for natives. That for Christians is desolate in the extreme. Not a sod, nor even the most humble flower is to be seen; not a tree shades the tombs. The mournful winds of Old Ocean sweep over its expanse, and it seems indeed forsaken; but, dreary as it is, the Moorish cemetery is even more unattractive.
Striking off from the empire of Morocco, as we journey eastward into Algeria we come to the town of Tlemcen. A passing glance at the town is, at first, very pleasing. A triple row of fine trees, such as the white poplar, the plane tree, the acacia, the nettle tree, and a species of tree the foliage of which is so thick that no sunbeam can ever penetrate it, lines the avenue of Méchonar, which leads to the gate of Bon Medina. At the left can be seen the old walls of Méchonar, which was the citadel of the town. At the right the eye beholds a scene strongly in contrast, for the houses, with possibly a few exceptions, are squalid in the extreme.
It is impossible to enter the town except from the southwest; as all other approaches to it present steep and rugged sides. The district about it abounds in fruit trees of all descriptions. The olive tree is the most valuable among them. Much of the land is cultivated for the production of cereals, tobacco, etc.
Tlemcen is the capital of the province of Oran. It is situated some eighty miles from its chief town, Oran, and enjoys a delightful situation in an undulating country under a thorough system of irrigation and cultivation. A range of hills, some four thousand or more feet in height, protects it from the south wind sweeping up from the desert sections.
The climate of the town is somewhat remarkable for its sudden changes in temperature, which are as distinctfrom day to day as are the changes of our climate from season to season. Sometimes they come in rapid succession, even in a single day, during the summer season.
Rain falls in abundance. The rainy season begins usually in October and continues, with occasional periods of fine weather, until the following May or June. The spring rains and the frequency of morning fogs render the vegetation so luxuriant as to astonish the traveler, even in the heat of the summer. After journeying through districts where the vegetation is parched and withered by the heat of June, the freshness of the verdure around Tlemcen cannot fail to delight as well as surprise the stranger.
The town rarely feels the effect of the sirocco, or wind from the south, and never longer than for two or three days in succession. Thunder is occasionally heard in winter or in the spring, and sometimes at the close of an unusually sultry day. When storms come they pass rapidly, for strong currents of air draw them away, usually towards the southeast.
Although apparently enjoying so many advantages, yet the town cannot be said to be very beautiful, when once we are within its walls. The quarters of the natives are hideous. Often they are scarcely more than ruins. In fact, it is no uncommon thing to find the most wretched buildings constructed out of the remnants of larger ones.
The interior of nearly all the native houses is squalid and destitute of all comfort. Usually a mat serves the purpose of a bed. A painted wooden chest, containinga few garments of wearing apparel and a scanty supply of linen, serves the double purpose of a closet and a table or seat, as may be needed. A few articles for the kitchen, a chafing dish of earthenware, and some wooden plates made from the poplar tree, complete the articles of household furniture.
The Jews, though much more crowded in their quarters than we should think admitted of comfort for their families of numerous boys and girls, furnish their homes much more comfortably than the natives do.
The natives are divided into two distinct classes very hostile to each other. On account of this hostile spirit the French have been able to maintain a strong hold upon the country.
Many of the people have Turkish fathers and Arab mothers, and constitute an oppressed and despised class. The French have protected them from direct persecution, and this has made them not only very grateful but very loyal to these foreigners, whom they even aid by joining their military forces in time of need.
They are generally tall in stature and vigorous in body, and are more cleanly and careful in their dress than their rivals, and more industrious. Through their labor the fine gardens of the town are kept green. They keep the provision and butcher shops, and as they speak both French and Spanish they easily compete with the foreign tradesmen.
Their rivals, the Haddans, are of pure Arab blood, and in their poverty and indolence are far inferior to their ancestors, who were rather an energetic race. Their bronze complexions and black hair offer a strongcontrast to the white complexions and usually fair hair of the despised half-breeds.
The Israelites are very numerous in Tlemcen. During the persecution of the Jews in the fifteenth century, many of them fled into Algeria and took refuge mainly in the province of Oran.
About the middle of the present century the Kabyles, a sturdy race of mountaineers descended from the ancient Numidians, broke out into decided hostilities against the French. Although they displayed much of the fierce, dauntless spirit of their ancestors, they were speedily quelled.
The work of conquering, colonizing, and, in a measure, civilizing Algeria, went on; while the French troops, penetrating into the remote south, almost to the borders of the Sahara, soon subdued the desert tribes, in spite of their bold resistance.
During the latter half of the present century the French government has given a great deal of attention to Algeria. Unfortunately, the French have not the reputation of making very good colonists.
The Kabyles, who occupy the mountainous section between Algiers and Constantine, were originally strong and powerful tribes, numbering one hundred and fifty thousand fighting men, all deadly foes of the French. Most of them have been subdued, though not without a long, sanguinary struggle.
The Kabyles are the most intelligent and the most industrious of all the Algerian tribes. Not an inch of ground capable of cultivation is allowed to go to waste. The carpets they manufacture are of superb beauty.Their woolens almost equal those of the English manufacturers in their excellence. Their gunpowder is of so superior a quality that the French for a long time believed it to be of English manufacture.
With the exception of a few Kabyle districts that struggle to maintain an independence of the French government, the whole of Algeria is now so much in subjection that it is perfectly safe to travel through any part of it without fear of being molested.
Among the benefits that have come through the colonization of Algeria, the system of artesian well digging is, by far, the most important. By means of irrigation, many barren and waste lands have been reclaimed and made extremely fertile.
About the middle of the present century, boring was begun in an oasis of the Sahara, within a desert section of the province of Constantine. A splendid fountain of water, yielding at the rate of over four thousand quarts a minute, at a temperature of seventy degrees, was the result. The native priests blessed it, and named it "The Fountain of Peace." Another of these artesian wells was called "The Fountain of Benediction."
In the desert of Sidi-Rached, a region wholly unproductive, owing to lack of water, a well was dug to a depth of a little more than fifty-four meters, which yielded over four thousand quarts a minute. This well is known as "The Fountain of Gratitude." The greatest excitement was shown when it was opened. The Arabs ran in crowds to the spot, and bathed themselves in the welcome stream; mothers dipped their little ones in it, while the aged priest fell upon his knees, wept, andin broken words of gratitude gave thanks to God, and to the French to whom such knowledge and power had been given.
In some places these artesian wells have been made the centers of settlements, by tribes which formerly were nomadic, or wandering. Around what may be termed "wellsprings of joy," villages have been constructed, and date trees have been planted in their vicinity.
Through so simple an agent as these artesian wells, the wandering habits of the tribes have been changed, and obedience and allegiance to French rule have in a measure been established. With feelings of gratitude these tribes recognize the blessing of a plentiful supply of pure water, and render thanks to those who have unlocked the storehouses of nature.
The oases, or fertile regions, which owe their existence to the digging of artesian wells, are usually surrounded by walls, which serve the purpose of fortifications. Such fortified places are used as storehouses and magazines by wandering tribes, who leave their grain crops and other goods in security, while they travel long distances in search of fresh pasturage for their immense flocks.
The Kabyles are not Arabs, but are descendants of the original African possessors of the soil, the Berbers. It is an interesting sight on a bright spring morning to watch the footpaths that lead to some popular Kabyle market. All along the roadside, under the foliage of the trees, or fording the shallow places in the rivers, swarms of these natives may be seen on their way to market.
The father of a family, with the younger children perched upon his shoulders, usually leads the way. His wife follows, leading the older children, while the mules, donkeys, and sheep with their drivers follow in a long procession.
Sometimes the wife, if young and easily fatigued, is allowed to ride upon the back of one of the donkeys. This is, however, a rare thoughtfulness on the part of the husband. Usually he thinks nothing of allowing his wife to find her way through streams where the water reaches above the knees even in the shallow places.
The Kabyle villages present a gay festive appearance, if viewed from a distance. A closer inspection is disenchanting, for it reveals the dirt, squalor, and disorder characteristic of the daily life of the natives, and which cannot fail to impress the traveler unpleasantly.
The houses are packed closely together on unpaved streets, so narrow that should two persons attempt to pass each other, one of them would be obliged to step to one side.
Small courts lead to the entrances of one or more of the squalid dwellings, which have but one room on the ground floor, with no opening other than the low doorway. The fireplace is merely a hole dug out in the floor. No chimney, however, is provided to carry off the smoke.
It is indeed hard to choose between the stifling, smoky atmosphere of one of these dwellings and that in the narrow streets impregnated with the vilest odors arising from all kinds of filth and rubbish lying about.
In some of the villages it is no uncommon thing to find nine or ten persons living in the one room of the house with the various domestic animals. In such a room the floor is of earth. It is unpaved, soiled with dirt, and littered with rubbish. A mat is rarely seen on such a floor, which has to serve as the only sleeping place for the members of the family. A bed is an unheard-of luxury.
The garments worn by the Kabyles are dirty, greasy, and ragged. Their food is coarse, and not always sufficient for the needs of the body.
When death enters the household, little change is made in the habits of the family. The body of the dead person is stretched out upon the dirty, bare floor. Sometimes a cloth or rug is thrown over it. The neighbors are then called into the house of mourning and crouch in a circle around the body, while the mild-eyed cattle, as they quietly chew their cud, look on in contemplative wonder.
During the struggle with the French, many of these tribes of the mountains were in the habit of seeking refuge with their flocks and treasures in the caves of the vicinity. On one occasion, a tribe, when hotly pursued by the French, took refuge in one of these immense caves. The colonel of the French troops ordered the refugees to surrender their firearms and horses, promising life and liberty. The offer was scornfully rejected by the Kabyles, who set at work to collect fagots, which they placed at the entrance of the cave and then ignited.
Three different times the French colonel sent a flagof truce and begged the imprisoned natives to surrender and accept the terms offered, but without avail. The last messenger was met by a discharge of firearms by the dauntless mountaineers. The fire was then rekindled and the intrepid Kabyles met their death in what had proved a prison rather than a refuge.
Later, when the cave was examined, some six hundred dead bodies were found. Counting those natives who, though alive, did not long survive, and those who could not be reached, it has been roughly estimated that about eight hundred must have perished. Some had been suffocated, others trampled to death by the maddened cattle which had been confined in the cave with their owners.
The capital of Algeria is Algiers. It was built some nine hundred years before Christ. An Arab chief was its founder. It rises from the sea coast up the sides of a bald, rugged hill.
Viewed from a distance the city is somewhat like a triangle in shape. The apex of the triangle is occupied by an ancient fortress. It stands five hundred feet above sea level and commands the whole city.
The modern part of the city is built lower down. On the side facing the sea it has a strong fortification, which the French have improved at a great expense.
It has been estimated that Algiers has a population of between fifty and sixty thousand people.
Oran and Constantine are both situated upon the sea coast. The former is a strongly fortified town upon the west. It is quite Europeanlike in appearance. Its seaport, about five miles to the north, is said to have one of the finest harbors on the northern coast of Africa.