FURNES

Furnes (Veurne) is a small town of about 6,000 inhabitants. Of ancient origin, it was the chief town of the "Veurne Ambacht" castellany, in the Middle-Ages. By the Treaty of 1715, the Dutch were empowered to place a garrison there, as a barrier against France.

During the War, Furnes became, after Antwerp and Ostend, the General Head-Quarters of the Belgian Army for a few months (1914-1915), the same being subsequently transferred to La Panne. More fortunate than Dixmude and Nieuport, practically all its public buildings and monuments escaped uninjured, although parts of the town were seriously damaged by the bombardments.

On January 28, 1920, President Poincaré, in the presence of King Albert, fastened the FrenchCroix de Guerreto the town's arms, with the following citation:

"During four trying years, in spite of incessant bombardments by aeroplanes and long-range guns, always set a fine example of unshakeable faith in the final Victory".

Furnes. The Grand'Place.

Tourists arrive by Rue du Nord which opens out into the Grand' Place, the ancient ornamental paving of which is very fine. Around the square are grouped the principal buildings.

TheHôtel-de-Villeis on the right.

Renaissance in style, it was erected in 1596-1612, from the plans of Lieven Lukas. The façade has two gables, one of which was preceded by a gracefulloggiawhich was removed during the war(Photo, p.40). The high belfry dates from 1628.On the ground-floor see:the Council Chamber, with Spanish leather hangings: the College Chamber, with Utrecht velvet hangings; the Marriage Hall, with astill-life painting attributed to Snyders(on the mantelpiece). The Great Hall on the first floor, with Spanish leather hangings, contains several royal portraits.

Spanish Officers' Pavilion.Rue de l'Est. Meat Market.St-Nicolas' Tower.The Grand'Place, Furnes.

Spanish Officers' Pavilion.Rue de l'Est. Meat Market.St-Nicolas' Tower.

The Grand'Place, Furnes.

Near by isthePalais-de-Justice, formerly the ancient castellany, built in 1612-1628 from the plans of Sylvain Boulin. Behind the Palais-de-Justice is theBelfry. The interior, restored in 1894, comprises several finely decorated rooms: the Waiting-Hall, the Justice Chamber (17th century), and the old Inquisition Chamber(on the first floor). The Chapel contains some fine vaulting and a carved wooden gallery. A number of bronze tablets recording judgments are kept there.

A narrow street between the Palais-de-Justice and a block of old houses with ruined gables, of which only mutilated fragments of the façades remain, leads to theChurch of St. Walburge.

Of very ancient origin, its reconstruction was begun in the 14th century. The choir was completed in the 15th century. The nave is 14th century. The church contains magnificent stalls (early 17th century), wood-work, doors, and pulpit, also aDescent from the Crossattributed to Pourbus. In the sacristy there is a 15th century shrine. The stalls, organ and altars were removed to a place of safety during the war. Much of the stained-glass was destroyed.

St. Nicolas' Tower.Spanish Guard House.The Grand'Place, Furnes.

St. Nicolas' Tower.Spanish Guard House.

The Grand'Place, Furnes.

Furnes. The loggia of the Hôtel-de-Ville.(Sept. 4, 1917.)

Furnes. The loggia of the Hôtel-de-Ville.

(Sept. 4, 1917.)

At the corner of the Grand' Place and the Rue de l'Est standsthePavilion of the Spanish Officers, built by the Spaniards in the 16th century as a barracks. Restored ata later date, it now serves as the Town Library and Archives(Photos, pp.39and41).

Opposite isthe oldMeat Market, now a theatre, with its fine early 17th century façade.

Furnes. The Palais-de-Justice (Ancient Castellany).On the left, the Hôtel-de-Ville whose "loggia" (photo above) was taken down (1918).

Furnes. The Palais-de-Justice (Ancient Castellany).

On the left, the Hôtel-de-Ville whose "loggia" (photo above) was taken down (1918).

At the end of the square, facing the Rue du Nord, istheOld Spanish Guard House, an arcaded building of early 17th century construction. The lateral façade overlooks the Place du Marché-aux-Pommes, in which standsSt. Nicolas' Church. Begun in the 14th century, building was continued in the 15th, and completed in the 16th centuries. The church,which has a high, unfinished tower suffered little during the war, although some of the stained-glass was broken.

The door of the Spanish Officers' Pavilion(Sept. 4, 1917).In the background:The Palais-de-JusticeandHôtel-de-Ville(photos, p.40.)In the foreground:Rue de l'Est, by which tourists leave Furnes.

The door of the Spanish Officers' Pavilion(Sept. 4, 1917).

In the background:The Palais-de-JusticeandHôtel-de-Ville(photos, p.40.)

In the foreground:Rue de l'Est, by which tourists leave Furnes.

Furnes possesses a number of curious old houses, the most noteworthy of which are theNoble Rose Hostelry, 11, Rue du Nord, near the Grand'Place, and thePomme d'Or Hostelryin the Grand'Place.

Victor Hugo lived in one of them in August 1837. The "Pomme d'Or" was used as a residence by the Spanish Officers (16th-17th centuries). Rebuilt in the 16th century, the "Noble Rose" was restored shortly before the War; it is now partly destroyed.

Every year, since the 12th century, a famous penitential procession took place at Furnes on the last Sunday in July, when the "Sodalité Brotherhood" performed the "Passion Play" in Flemish.

Leave Furnes by the Rue de l'Est, and immediately after crossing the canal, take the Nieuport road, on the left. AtWulpen(5 kms.), cross the canal to go toOost-Dunkirk(2 kms.)Numerous shelters, trenches, and wire entanglements are to be seen along the road.

Oost-Dunkirk-Bains.

After crossing the railway (l.c.) turn to the left intoOost-Dunkirk.Like Coxyde, Oost-Dunkirk comprises the town proper—situated behind the dunes, on a road which, via Coxyde, linked up Furnes with Nieuport—and the baths, 2 kms. further north, on the coast. Both places served as billeting quarters for the French Marines in 1915. The immense camps of wooden huts were occupied later by the Zouaves.

The town was practically destroyed by the bombardments; most of the houses are in ruins, but the church is still standing.

To visit the Baths (2 kms.) take the road on the right, beyond the church,noticing the numerous shelters in the dunes.Coming back from the dike, take the first road on the left toNieuport-Bains(4 kms.)The road crosses a region covered with defence-works, trenches and wire entanglements, alternating with shelters and battery positions. The battle zone began there. All vestiges of life and vegetation have disappeared.

Before reaching Nieuport-Bains, a Franco-British cemetery(photo below) is seen on the left, and a little further on, the ruins of the church, with a cemetery in front.

Nieuport-Bains, a small watering-place situated 3 kms. from Nieuport and 17 kms. from Ostend, was perhaps the prettiest of the Belgian seaside places. There the dunes rise in places to a height of 100 feet.

Cemetery at the entrance to Nieuport-Bains.

As witness the trenches andboyauxwhich run through the ruins of its pretty villas and fine hotels, Nieuport-Bains stood in the front line.

At the end of the dike the road turns to the right in the direction ofNieuport-Ville. From here the tourist crosses the dunes parallelly to the sea.Traversing the zone which formed the first line during the stabilisation period, the mouth of the Yser, protected by two wooden piers about three-quarters of a mile long and covered with sacks of earth, is reached. The Grande Dune, which General de Mitry attacked in January 1915, is on the right bank of the estuary, opposite Nieuport-Bains. The polders of Lombartzyde are somewhat to the south-west(See p.53).

The Hotels on the sea-front at Nieuport-Bains.

Broken fragments of walls mark the site of the station on the dune. In front are a derelict engine and train, which have been there since 1914. Near by is the entrance to the covered trench which connected Nieuport-Ville with Nieuport-Bains; same may be visited.

Return to the car and take the road to the left towards Nieuport-Ville (photo below).

Proceed to Nieuport (3 kms.) by the road (very rough) running parallel to the estuary of the Yser, pastseveral shelters and artillery positions.After crossing the bridge over a small canal, the tourist comes out on the wharves of Nieuport.Once an important fishing port, little remains today of its former prosperity. A few fishing boats still give some little activity to the place.

Road leading to the mouth of the Yser.At the end of the dike, leave the car and go on foot, in the direction of arrow A, along the path leading to the mouth of the river (photos, p.44). Return to the car and take the road to the left (arrow B.) to Nieuport-Ville.

Road leading to the mouth of the Yser.

At the end of the dike, leave the car and go on foot, in the direction of arrow A, along the path leading to the mouth of the river (photos, p.44). Return to the car and take the road to the left (arrow B.) to Nieuport-Ville.

Wooden Pier at the mouth of the Yser.

On the right:View, looking towards the sea.

On the right:

View, looking towards the sea.

On the left:View looking towards Nieuport.In the foreground:Concrete Shelter and destroyed Wooden Pier.

On the left:

View looking towards Nieuport.

In the foreground:Concrete Shelter and destroyed Wooden Pier.

Below:French Trench along the Beach, to the left of the river mouth. In the background: Nieuport Pier.

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