OSTEND.

In the 9th century, Ostend, then a hamlet, was situated at the eastern end(Oostende)of a sand-bar belonging to the powerful St. Bertin Abbey of St. Omer. Incursions by the Normans and the ravages of the sea had almost entirely annihilated it when, in the 9th century, Robert le Frison built a chapel to Our Lady there, around which a new village grew up. Thanks to the herring fisheries on the Flemish coast—a flourishing industry in the Middle-Ages, but since abandoned—Ostend grew and prospered. The construction of defence-works at the end of the 16th century, by Guillaume-le-Taciturne, conferred on the town the dangerous honour of becoming the last rampart of the Utrecht Confederation against the Spaniards of the southern provinces, and resulted in one of the longest and bloodiest sieges (1601-1603) recorded in history. This three years' struggle cost one hundred thousand lives and reduced the town to ruins.

Later, Ostend sustained further destructive sieges, e.g. by the English, under Marlborough, in 1706; by the French under Marshal Lowendhal in 1745. Meanwhile, and in the latter part of the 18th century, various factors helped to restore the town's former prosperity, i.e. the "Peace of Utrecht" (1713) which closed the Escaut, thus paralysing Antwerp in favour of Ostend; and the wealthy "Indian Company" founded there, but broken up ten years later for political reasons. The "Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle" (1748) having ceded the town to Austria, Joseph II caused the maritime installations to be completed, and made it a free port, into which the belligerent ships put during the American War. This revived prosperity was again annihilated by revolution and the Napoleonic wars.

In the 19th century, Ostend discovered a new and fruitful source of wealth in sea-bathing, and eventually developed into one of Europe's premier seaside resorts.

Under the impulsion of Leopold II, who frequently resided there, extensive works were carried out in the town and port at the beginning of the present century. The channel was widened, the jetties rebuilt, the port enlarged. A monumental bridge, the present maritime station, and the church of St. Peter and Paul were built. The dike was prolonged westwards and bordered with luxurious buildings. Parks and public gardens were laid out. To the east, the Lighthouse Quarter was transformed, and the Royal Road in the Dunes to Blankenberghe was made.

When, in August 1914, the Germans invaded Belgium, this "queen of watering-places" offered a strangely moving sight until the middle of October. British troops disembarked from the transports, marched in long files through the streets, and encamped in the surroundings. Refugees from all parts were temporarily housed in the bathing cabins. "Zeppelins" and "Taubes" completed the terror and panic caused by the approach of the invaders. The trains were crammed, and the maritime station crowded with thousands of people seeking to get across to Britain. The retirement of the Belgian Army along the littoral, after the fall of Antwerp, marked the end of the season of 1914.

On October 14, the Germans occupied the town, from which the visitors and part of the inhabitants had fled. Naval defences were organised, the dike and dunes armed, while the palaces and villas along the dike, the Kursaal, and other public buildings were occupied by the military staffs. The town suffered severely from this occupation. British shells and aeroplane bombs unavoidably increased the damage. The maritime station, and a number of hotels and private residences in the central and eastern districts were partly destroyed, while the glazed roof of the Banqueting Hall of the Kursaal collapsed.

Many public buildings were transformed into Hospitals, dressing-stations, and even stables. The furniture of the fine villas along the sea-front was either sent to Germany or burnt as firewood. The wine-cellars were emptied. Defilements, in accordance with Kultur's best practice, went hand-in-hand with the destructions. Reconstruction and cleansing will require much time and work. Yet, true to her past, Ostend will rise again, more beautiful than ever, from her ruins.

Itinerary for visiting Ostend (indicated by the thick lines): The Chalet Royal, Kursaal, Leopold Park, Chaussée de Thourout, Tirpitz Battery, Rue de Leffingue, Docks, Church of St. Peter and Paul, Outer Harbour, Wooden Pier, Hôtel-de-Ville, Marie-Henriette Park (on leaving), Napoleon Fort.

Ostend Sands.Gneisenau Battery, in front of the Royal Palace Hôtel.

Ostend Sands.

Gneisenau Battery, in front of the Royal Palace Hôtel.

On entering the town, skirt theWellington Hippodrome, in front of whichportions of the old Wellington Fortmay still be seen at the end of the Western Dike. In front of the terrace of the Royal Palace Hôtel, on the dike, isthe"Gneisenau" Batteryarmed with 4in. guns(photo above).

Take Avenue des Courses to theChalet Royal. Go round the latter by Rue Courbe.

Between Avenue des Courses and Rue Courbe opens out, on the right, the fine Avenue de la Reine, which connects the dike with the Grand Parc Marie-Henriette(see p.67).

The Sands and Chalet Royal, before the war(Photo Nels.)

Ostend. The Sea Wall.On the left:The Kursaal.On the right:Concrete ShelterFurther on (to the left)The Chalet RoyalIn the background:Mariakerke.

Ostend. The Sea Wall.

On the left:The Kursaal.

On the right:Concrete Shelter

Further on (to the left)The Chalet Royal

In the background:Mariakerke.

Thisensembleof light constructions occupies a fine dominating position. Instead of levelling the dune, the side facing the sea was consolidated with masonry-work.

The opposite side of the hill is laid out with terraced gardens, through which winds the road leading to the Chalet. The latter comprises two large pavilions connected by a central gallery.

In the large square, situated in the rear, were collected the bathing cabins, in which refugees from all parts were sheltered during the first months of the war.

Take Rue Royale, Boulevard van Iseghem, then the road on the left leading up to the dike, near the Kursaal. (Vehicular traffic on the dike is prohibited from 9 a.m. till midnight.)

Here the dike is separated by some 150 yards from the line of the dunes, being bounded on the west by the terrace of the Kursaal, on the east by aperré, rounded off in front of the port jetties. The effect of this bold promontory, which seems to defy the waves, is most striking.

The eastern end, on which stands the old lighthouse (now a semaphore station), was built at the beginning of the 19th century. It is now apromenadebordered with fine buildings, some eighty yards in length by thirty in width. The masonry embankment rises thirty feet above the foundations and is protected by four massive breakwaters.

At low water, only about 200 yards of the beach is uncovered, or about half as much as at the Western Baths, where the shore forms an angle immediately to the left.

In front stretches the New Western Dike, set further back than the old one, and prolonged as far as Mariakerke. The sea-wall at Ostend has thus a total length of 3½ kms.

Each summer, before the War, theWestern Beach, with its vast expanse of golden sands, its countless bathing-machines and coloured tents, offered, in the bright sunshine and clear air, an extraordinarily animated and gay scene.

TheEastern Sands, at the other end of the dike, in front of the wooden pier, although less popular, were nevertheless crowded with bathers during the season.

From 1831, when Ostend-Bains was "discovered", until 1875, the Kursaal stood on the old brick-paved dike. It was a modest construction (now at Malo-les-Bains) but had, till then, sufficed for the town's needs. In 1875, the new sumptuous Kursaal was begun on its present magnificent site.

The building, designed by the architects Naert and Lauwereins, covers with its grounds an area of about three acres. Originally, its general aspect was somewhat bizarre, and reminded one of a gigantic turtle basking in front of the sea. The alterations since carried out at different times, particularly the ceramic ornamentation, has considerably improved its original appearance.

Its curved façade follows that of the dike, the latter forming solid foundations. The façade consists of a covered terrace, thirty feet wide, extending round the central rotunda. The latter, elliptical in shape, is 200 feet long, 120 feet wide and 75 feet high, and forms an immense hall capable of holding some 5,000 people. Symphony concerts are given there.

Return by the path on the west side and take the broad Avenue Léopold, opposite, ornamented with gardens, toLeopold Park(see plan, p.60.)

Leopold Park was laid out in former days on the site of the old fortifications, near the Western Gate, theglacisof the bastions being used to break the monotony of the level ground.

After visiting the park, return to Avenue Ch. Janssens, which separates it from Boulevard Léopold, and take same on the left. In Place Léopold, take Chaussée de Thourout, on the left, then Rue de Leffingue as far as the entrance to the"Tirpitz" Battery, (photos below and p.64), situated on the right some few hundred yards outside the town.

The Tirpitz Battery, photographed from Allied aeroplane, July 31, 1916

General view of the powerful Tirpitz Battery.The background:Ostend.Inset:Breech of one of the Guns.

General view of the powerful Tirpitz Battery.

The background:Ostend.

Inset:Breech of one of the Guns.

This powerful battery has four 11in. armour-protected guns, mounted on circular tracks on hollow platforms of masonry about 46 feet in diameter.

The shelters behind the guns were destroyed. The battery was protected by trenches and barbed-wire entanglements.

On the left, facing the sea, are screens which masked the fire of the guns from the land observation-posts. In front of the right-hand gun was the post of commandment.

The guns of this battery were being built by Krupps in 1914, to the order of the Belgian Government, for the forts of Antwerp.

Return to the town by Rue de Leffingue, Rue du Chemin-de-fer, and Quai du Châtelet; the latter skirtsthe 3rd and 2nd Commercial Docksand ends at Place Vanderzweep, near the station (see plan, p.60).Cross the bridge, on the left, between the 2nd and 1st Docks, then turn to the right along Quai de l'Empereur.

The Place du Commerce is next reached, at the end of which standstheChurch of St. Peter and Paul.

Dock No. 2, Church of St. Peter and Paul(left) and theStation(right.)

Ostend. The Church of St. Peter and St. Paul.

The modern Church of St Peter and Paul stands on the site of a former church of that name (1717) which was burnt down in 1896, with the exception of the campanile still standing behind the new building.

At the foot of the new choir is an allegorical group in white marble (by Fraikin), to the memory of Louis-Marie d'Orléans, first Queen of the Belgians and wife of Léopold I, who died at Ostend in 1850.

Opposite the church, facing the port, istheMaritime Station, which suffered severely from the aerial bombardments.

The port of Ostend dates back to the 15th century. In 1445, Philippe-le-Bon authorised the inhabitants of the town to make an opening in the dike, in order to construct a fishing harbour. The latter was situated opposite the present port, i.e. to the west, near Mariakerke. At the end of the following century it was moved eastwards, the sea having opened up a passage on that side, in consequence of the levelling of the dunes for the construction of the fortifications. However, the maritime installations which, until the end of the last century, formed the port of Ostend, dated from the time of the Emperor Joseph II. They were completely transformed and considerably extended in 1898-1914, the work being almost complete when the war broke out.

The Maritime Station.(Ph. Nels).

Ostend. Place d'Armes and Hôtel-de-Ville,(Photo Nels.)

The new vast outer-harbour communicates with the sea by means of a wide channel enclosed between two open-work piers. The channel is also connected by a powerful lock to an immense modern impounding-dock, over 200 acres in extent. The tide supplies the water necessary for flushing the channel clear of sand.

The landing-stage of the Maritime Station borders on the outer harbour where the boats plying daily between Ostend and Dover were moored. Words cannot describe the scenes which took place here during the first half of October 1914, after the fall of Antwerp. At the approach of the German armies, panic-stricken crowds of refugees filled the stations and their approaches to overflowing, in frantic endeavours to get on board the ships that were to take them to Britain.

Quai de l'Empereur is prolonged, beyond Place du Commerce, by Quai des Pêcheurs which skirts theMinque(orFish Market) and theBassin des Pêcheurs.

The Bassin des Pêcheurs (Fishing Dock) is connected with the outer-harbour, which precedes the channel. Near by is the "Minque" (Fish-Market),—a circular building in which the fish is sold by auction daily, the proceedings being announced by the ringing of a bell.

During the fine season the natives fish mainly along the English and Dutch shores, but go as far as the entrance to the Channel in the winter. Their boats are of the trawler type, fitted with conical drag-nets, the mouths of which, thirty to forty feet wide, are kept open by cross-stays. The nets are dragged along the bottom of the sea.

Keeping along the dock-sides, the tourist next reaches the old lighthouse at the end of the dike. Take Boulevard Van Iseghem on the left, then Rue de Flandre on the left, in front of the theatre, leading to the Place d'Armes, in which stands theHôtel-de-Ville(see plan, p.60.)

The Hôtel-de-Ville, built in 1711, and restored later, after mutilation, occupies the whole of one side of the Place d'Armes, in the centre of the old city. The long façade was flanked at either end by high towers, only one of which remains.

To leave Ostend, for the second day's itinerary (Ostend-Zeebrugge-Bruges) take Rue de la Chapelle (continuation of Rue de Flandre) in front of the Hôtel-de-Ville (See, p.60.)

Itinerary for the Second Day.

Leave Ostend by Rue de la Chapelle, which passes in front of the Hôtel-de-Ville (pp.60and66) and leads to Place Vanderzweep. In this square, at the end opposite the Bassin du Commerce, take Avenue de Smet de Naeyer, which leads to theParc Marie-Henriette.

Situated south of the town, between the two railways ending at each of the two stations, is Marie-Henriette Park, which owing to its great size, numerous winding alleys, clusters of trees, and artificial lakes with pleasure boats, was often deservedly called the "Bois de Boulogne". The long Avenue de la Reine connects it directly with the Western Dike; on the other hand, it borders on the new maritime installations.

Cross the two bridges over the lateral canal, then the railway and maritime lock; take the first street on the left, which passes over the Ghent-Ostend canal and the sluice-gates. Take Chaussée du Phare, on the left, then the first street on the left, opposite Rue Mansveld, to theOyster-Beds.

Ostend. The Monumental Bridge. Exit for Zeebrugge.

Panorama of Ostend seen from the old lighthouse.

Ostend oysters, of world-wide repute among gourmets, are not natives of these shores. Gathered from the rocks on the English and Brittany coasts by the Ostend fishing-boats, they are fattened by a special process in the Ostend oyster-beds. The latter, situated in the lighthouse quarter communicate with the outer-harbour. They consist of reservoirs divided into compartments with planks, in which the sea-water, renewed every day, deposes its slimy sediment. During the War, the oyster-beds were closed.

Taking Chaussée du Phare again on the left (see plan, p.60), the tourist reaches the site on whichthe lighthouse used to stand, now a heap of ruins.

Built in 1859, its round tower, 175 feet high, showed a fixed white light. Behind is the old Napoleon Fort. Facing the lighthouse, at the end of the sluice dock, stands the Powder Magazine, a kind of fort where the Germans had two batteries.

Tourists may go round the powder magazine by following the dike which is terminated by the Eastern Wooden Pier.It was at the end of the latter that the British sank the "Vindictive" on May 11, 1918.

On April 21, the British Admiralty undertook to block up the ports of Ostend and Zeebrugge.

British Cruisers "Sirius" and "Brilliant" sunk to the east of the wooden pier at Ostend, April 22, 1918.

Under the command of Commodore Hubert Lynes, the flotilla left Dover at the same time as the one which was to block up Zeebrugge.

The Ostend flotilla was composed of the cruisersSiriusandBrilliant(Commodore Godsal), loaded with concrete, which were to be sunk at the entrance to the port. Destroyers, scouts and motor-boats were to reconnoitre the way and pick up the crews of the blockading ships. Lastly, smoke-boats provided a protecting screen of smoke, which hid the flotilla's movements from the enemy.

When twelve miles from Ostend this flotilla parted company with that bound for Zeebrugge.

The smoke screen hiding theSiriusandBrilliantwas swept away by a sudden veering of the wind. The enemy's gunfire had extinguished the lights which were to guide the two cruisers, and the latter thus ran past the Stroom Bank buoy which should have marked the entrance to Ostend but which the Germans had displaced. They were therefore sunk to the east of the stockade.

The Vindictiveundergoing repairs after her return from Zeebrugge, previous to leaving for Ostend where she was destined to finish her career.

The Vindictive

undergoing repairs after her return from Zeebrugge, previous to leaving for Ostend where she was destined to finish her career.

This operation having proved unsuccessful, it was decided to make a further attempt, which was again entrusted to Commodore Lynes. Thistime the blockading ship was theVindictive(Captain Godsal), and the Air Service took part in the enterprise. On the night of May 9, the weather being favorable, theVindictivesteamed towards a limelight placed by a motor-boat on the site of the Stroom Bank buoy.

Napoleon Fort, and the road leading to the Hindenburg Battery(on the left.)

Two motor-scouts torpedoed both ends of the wooden piers, at which signal the whole of the British artillery opened fire, and was immediately answered by the German guns. A thick fog soon swallowed up everything.

TheVindictivehad to be led by scouts and, notwithstanding the death of her commander, and the numerous shells which hit the ship, Lieutenant Crutchley was able to carry out the manœuvre, swing the cruiser across the channel, and blow her up. The crew were picked up by a scout, and the flotilla put back to Dover.

The Hindenburg Battery, north-east of Ostend.

Observation-Post of Coast Batteries.Upper photo: General View of the Post.Near the skyline: one of the two British cruisers sunk during the first attempt to bottle up Ostend Harbour.Middle photo: Exterior View of the Observation-Post.Lower photo: Interior View of the Observation-Post.

Observation-Post of Coast Batteries.

Upper photo: General View of the Post.

Near the skyline: one of the two British cruisers sunk during the first attempt to bottle up Ostend Harbour.

Middle photo: Exterior View of the Observation-Post.

Lower photo: Interior View of the Observation-Post.

By-road(see arrow)leading to the Jacobinessen Battery.

The Germans were eventually able to displace theVindictiveand partly free the passage.

Return via Chaussée du Phare to Place de l'Ecluse, turn to the left into Boulevard du Congo, which crosses the new eastern quarter of Ostend (see plan, p.60.)

Just outside the town, a short distance before reaching the "Hôpital" (to the left of the road), turn to the left and skirt the left side of the "Hôpital", as far as the"Hindenburg" Battery, consisting of four 11in. guns on semi-circular concrete platforms.

In front of this battery is theOld Napoleon Fort, which the Germans turned into a Casino during the war. Some of their mural paintings may still be seen in the rooms.

Farther on, isthe post of commandment of the "Hindenburg" Battery.

Return to the road and continue in the direction of Blankenberghe.

Beyond Milestone No. 6, which bears the inscription "Le Coq 5 km. 1", there isan observation-post,on the left, with telemetric posts and machine-gun shelters(photos, p.71).

On the coast, some distance ahead, may be seen one of the cruisers which were to have blocked the port of Ostend.

One of the Deutschland (Jacobinessen) Battery's Guns.

The "Deutschland" or "Jacobinessen" Battery; One of the guns, with shelter for the men and munitions. Below: 1. Breech of the gun; 2. Electric gear for laying; 3. Munitions Shelter; 4. King Albert and President Poincaré visiting the Battery.

On the road to Blankenberghe, at the point shown by an arrow in the photo on p.72, take the road on the right leading to the"Deutschland" Battery, also known as the "Jacobinessen" Battery(photos, pp.72and73).

This was the most powerful battery on the Belgian coast. Armed with four 15in. guns, it was used to bombard Dunkirk.

Grouped in pairs, these naval guns, mounted on bridges, were installed in concrete pits about seventy feet in diameter. The right-hand gun only was protected with armour.

The gun laying was effected by means of electric motors. Near each gun immense shelters of reinforced concrete were used to store the shells, while the large shelter between the two groups was probably the post of commandment.

Camouflaging of barbed-wire covered with branches of trees may still be seen hanging above the battery.

The latter was protected by deep lines of barbed wire and infantry defence-works.

Return to the Blankenberghe road and pass through the village ofLe Coq(Flemish: de Haan.) On the top of the last turretted house on the right, isan observation post,and opposite, on the top of the dune, a searchlight.On the dike aretwo 3in. anti-aircraft guns,and in the surroundings, numerous shelters.Further on, to the left, area lighthouse,and on the high dune, an observation-post.Pass throughWenduyne(4½ kms.) arriving at the"Herta" Battery, on the left of the road.This battery comprises four 8in. guns.A little further on is the"Hafen" Battery, comprising four 3½in. guns.Blankenberghe(4 kms.) is reached by going between the Fishing Dock and Impounding Dock.

Blankenberghe was one of the most popular resorts on the Belgian coast.On the dike, the Kursaal, erected in memory of Lieutenant Lippens and Sergeant de Bruyne, both natives of Blankenberghe, who were killed in the Congo in 1893,andthe Pier (Promenade) are of interest.

The Kaiserin Battery, to the east of Blankenberghe.In the background: The houses of Blankenberghe.

The Kaiserin Battery, to the east of Blankenberghe.

In the background: The houses of Blankenberghe.

Follow Avenue Smet de Naeyer as far as the station, then turn left along Rue de l'Eglise, to the steps leading up to the dike. If it is not desired to visit the dike, turn to the right along Rue de l'Eglise and Rue des Pierres, then follow Avenue Jules de Trooz, and turn left along Avenue du Littoral. There are tram-lines along both avenues. Tourists who go as far as the dike should take Rue du Casino (on the right, at the top of Rue de l'Eglise), then Avenue Rogier which joins up with Avenue du Littoral.

Beyond Blankenherghe the road is bordered, on the left, withfortifications and batteries.Follow it as far asZeebrugge-Plage(4½ kms.)

The following batteries will be passed on the way:

The"Kaiserin" Battery, with four 6in. guns; the"Mittel B" Battery, with four 4in. long guns on concrete platforms, adjusted for firing against aircraft (this battery is on the top of the dune, with shelters below); the"Groden" Battery, comprising four 11in. howitzers.

Lastly, near the port of Zeebrugge, is the"Zeppelin" Battery, of four 4in. guns. The entrance to it is situated a short distance before reaching Zeebrugge-Plage.

Back to Index Next